Hi, Ron! I also fixed my lamp using your video. Thank you! I even had to rebuild the base parts, and your close ups showed me just how to put it all back together. My husband bought me a new torchiere shade for Christmas, and now it's lit and beautiful. A very fun project thanks to you and your camerawoman!
I'm a 78 yr old woman & need to rewire a floor lamp, so I appreciated your demonstration. I have the newer type socket, and think my socket needs replaced as well as the wiring.... but the problem could be in the switch on the side as for a long time, I have had to play around with the switch to get the light to stay on. I wondered if you would do a demo on that sometime, but in the meantime, want to remind everyone that if you buy a whole new kit, because of the plug which goes into your outlet, one would have to run the wiring up thru' the bottom of the lamp BEFORE attaching the socket etc., otherwise the plug won't fit down thru' the pipe. And yes, thanks Joan! See how we often need a woman's input? LOL
Thank you sir! Broke my vintage stained glass lamp switch smooth off the pole but thankfully the wire held and the glass didn't hit the floor. This is very helpful and I appreciate it! :)
I just bought a lovely old mogul floor lamp and will likely need to rewire it, so this was extremely helpful - thanks! I'll err on the side of caution, however, and connect black cord to brass screw. I did it this way when I rewired my mom's old table lamp.
Hi Ron & co: Thanks for the video, which was really helpful. My old Mogul socketed light also has an 'arm' that makes it hard to rethread the new cord.. or maybe the Underwriter's knot is somewhere up in the works. By the way, while the video is great, I hope you'll consider a quick re-edit (I think you can do this within TH-cam now) to flash some text over the parts on wiring connections like "Correction: it does matter that ribbed goes to white screw/large plug and smooth cord goes to brass screw/small plug" It's not necessary to redo the video, but this is an important point (life or death) and your comments could easily lead many people to wire their lamps in such a way as to cause a shock or a problem. Thanks!
Love the video i wish i had find it earlier before taking it at part. I will try my best to look at the video to put all the screw i took out. I love my lamp.
I've rewired lamps with the ceramic sockets, and then did one with the more modern brass socket. I forgot the cardboard - and Ooops! What a bad, dangerous thing to do. It was only a matter of time before metal and metal touched and the bulb and the socket virtually welded together! As for polarity that folks have commented about, a continuity tester is great. (I didn't read every comment, so maybe someone else covered this.) You put the alligator clip of the tester on the wide blade of the plug and, with the needle on the other end of the tester, touch the socket threads (neutral), and it should light. Put the clip on the narrow blade, and touch the tester to the gizmos on the floor of the socket (the 'hot' part) and the tester should light (you may need to try the switch if it doesn't - it won't light if the lamp switch is in the off position). My most recent torchiere had some sort of stop nut (smooth and round outside, not like a hex nut) on the bottom of the rod, about threads about 2" up on the rod. Wasn't sure what to do with that!
David G. I have an update. Our lamps i figured it out, the cover comes apart easily. it is just pressed on. once u loosen the top bulb socket by unscrewing it thus gaining at least 2-3 inches then remove the small screw at the top of the cover over the switch. then twist the cover back and forth to loosen it, then attempt to cock it to one side a bit, once you achieve that take a small screw driver and insert it into the small opening that u should see and gently pry the lid off and reveal the switch. Hope this helps!
Hello Ron, Great video! I have a question. I will change the socket in an older floor lamp to a polarized socket, but I'd like to continue to use the non-polarized cord if possible. Is this advisable? Or would it be best to go ahead and get new polarized lamp cord as well?
You are absolutely right -- but only if you're using a polarized plug, which I'm not in this instance. If you're using a standard, old-style (non-polarized plug), there is no distinguishing between the hot and neutral . . . unless you mark one side of the plug as hot and are mindful of plugging it into your receptacle that way.
Where would I look for the glass globe bowl part to purchase? I’ve got a cool brass lamp I would like to fix. Watching this video made me realize the globe bowl is missing. Thanks. Looks easy enough to try!
Ron. Thing is, that the floor lamp has a different top than my usual tops. As yours did, I have the brown metal piece and inside is a white socket like you have but much smaller. I'd like to put in a 3 way switch, like I use on my table lamps. It does fit. Can I just put the other switch on the lamp? I'm looking to learn if I can put the new one on the lamp without having problems in the future. And why are the different? What is the purpose of the old one vs. the new ones. I did appreciate your video. To get that cord through the 5 pieces of the lamp was an ordeal. based on how the poles were made. Took me an hour to figure out to use skewer sticks, electrical tape and a scissors.
I appreciate your comments and especially appreciate your civility. And you are right: wiring a lamp the old fashioned way is not as safe as it could be (although I have never received a shock from these old lamps). That said, I will post a more complete version of lamp rewiring that discusses polarized plugs and wiring that ensures the safety these plugs afford. Thanks much.
Hello, great video Ron! I have a similar lamp, but no matter how one might envision taking apart, I cannot get past removing the switch, when I turn it counterclockwise, it just clicks once-per-revolution and keep turning and turning without unscrewing, any thoughts that would help me - thank you!
Hi, Craig: typically a switch on these lamps is a small crenelated stub that protrudes about one inch. It's secured to the hole with a threaded washer on the other side of the hole. It's called a "rotary switch." Do an internet search for that. Or go here: www.amazon.com/Lamp-4-Position-Circuit-Rotary-Removable/dp/B01LYCHAMM. The switch isn't coming out because the threaded washer is stuck. You've got to get inside and squirt it with oil, maybe clamp a needle nose pliers to it and turn it loose. Best of luck!
Thanks Ron! I have a single 3-way bulb, but it flickers on and off (mostly off) when moved slightly. I assume that this is because there is a bad connection somewhere. Why replace the wire? Couldn't I just take everything apart, make sure the connections are good, then put it back together? Maybe clip a few inches off the old cord to get fresh wire on either or both ends (plug and bulb-socket) and lose a few inches in the process, but that would be ok? Or is there some reason that new wire is better? I very much liked your video -- information and presentation was quite good. Thanks again!
Sounds like you have loose wires at the plug. A fire hazard. Or loose wires at the screws at the socket. I replace old wire only when its covering is brittle, corroded, or split, etc. If your wire is sound and you have only a loose connection, there's no need to replace the wire.
Ah, I had not considered the brittleness of covering. I'm not sure I can judge brittleness and the lamp is 40 years old at the very least, so I will replace it. Much appreciated!
Ron, I rewired an old lamp, with TWO sockets. It was very challenging combining the central wire with the two sockets, as there is a center 'cup' that the two sockets attach to, and maneuvering inside that cup for all the wiring was tricky. After splicing the wires up the center and the two sockets, I attached one of the center wires with one wire each of the sockets to disperse. I finally got it all done and working well. However, now having the light on for even less than an hour, with only 40 watts in each socket, both sockets are extremely hot... Can you advise? Did I do something wrong in the wiring? Should I have just taken one side of the central wire to the left socket, and one to the right, and not combined them?
Steven, it's okay if the sockets get hot. That happens with every lamp. The question is, do the wires get hot? Send me a diagram of what you did because I can't quite picture it yet: ron(at)houselove.org
I have one where the switch is a 3 way for 3 bulbs, but this switch is located on the pole. You grab it & twist it to turn on 1, 2, or all 3 lights. When I start dismantling this floor lamp, is this rotating switch, located roughly 2/3 up the pole, going to be an issue? It works, I just have burned sockets & no doubt loose wires.
Hi Ron.......I have one of the old Corning 3 way floor lamp that has the additional 3 arm candle lights on the side. Can you give me advice on how to disconnect the part cover that holds it all together so I can get access to the candle arms so that I can rewire them? It turns slightly to what seems to unlock the hold, but they just don't come apart. I also need to replace one of the two switches that need to be replaced. I wish I had the ability to upload a picture to show you my exact problem I am having. Can you please help?
+David Gingras David: I'm sorry I can't help much without a picture to refer to because these lamps were made in various ways Here's a link to a parts website so you can get switches.: www.grandbrass.com/ShowItem.cfm?ItemNumber=SW573BP&session.currentcategory=Switches&session.currentsubcategory=Fixture%20Switches Best, Ron
+David Gingras So did you find how to get that cover off that covers the 4 way switch? i HOPE SO , because I also need to know how, and hoping you will reply back to me soon. I was about to ask Ron the same question when i saw you had already. Thank you David
I have an old torchier floor lamp with a heavy glass torchiere shade and a heavy brass torchier holder. The lamp has been rewired with new wiring, a new plug, and a new porcelain socket. I use a 100/200/300 watt trilight bulb. No matter what level I use on the light, the brass torchier holder gets so burning hot that you cannot keep your hand on it for more than two or three seconds. Is it supposed to be that way? What could be wrong? Thanks.
So I'm trying to replace the plug. The cord on this lamp also has 2 uncolored wires. But my question is, which one goes on the black screw and which one goes on the silver screw. Does it matter? I know black cord to black screw white cord to silver screw and ground to green screw. But this cord has no color code and im worried about rewiring it backwards. Any tips?
I have a lamp with this type of socket. Is there a way to re-wire to the newer style? Or just getting an adapter the only option? I have to wire it either way, but thought I’d check.
@@tannertoys I tried and got so far as the light socket, which has a chain pull, this is where things went down hill:( It was so old and came apart. I guess I buy a new socket? And thank you, I'd be totally list without this video😁
Ron, what can you tell me about repairing/replacing the lamp-stand switch on a Stiffel floor lamp (which has mogul three way socket) but where you pull down on the shaft to turn lamp on and off without having to turn the three-way switch near the bulb? This second lamp-stand switch is hidden. It does not appear when you take the cardboard off the bottom of the base.
POLARCH I would need to see a photo of this. Some switches you simply have to replace. Yours may look like this: www.grandbrass.com/ShowItem.cfm?ItemNumber=SW573BP&session.currentcategory=Switches&session.currentsubcategory=Fixture%20Switches
Ron, can you help me? I recently restored an old floor lamp of my mothers. It has a mogul center light on one switch and three arms coming out of the center with a bulb on each arm. There is a switch for these lights which I think is supposed to turn on one bulb, two bulbs, all three bulbs and then off. I can only get it to turn on two bulbs, one bulb, three bulbs and then off. Is it miss-wired?
Hi, KS: Sorry to say those 3-way switches are tricky and I don't know how to they work (when they don't work). Wish I had an answer! Best bet is to find a shop that repairs vintage lamps.
I'm trying to repair a floor lamp, but I can remove the little pin that the plastic knob screws onto. I can't get the bad part out with that little pin sticking out. I was wondering if it unscrews out. I tried, but it wouldn't budge.
Just do an internet search for "antique lamp parts" or go here www.vintagehardware.com/vintage-light-stem-kits-ceiling-kits-fitters-lamp-parts.php?cat=297
It's not because AC is alternating current and, as noted here in lots of the comments, it is important to wire the non-ribbed wire to copper (hot) and the ribbed wire to silver/not hot. It's also important to make an underwriters' knot to keep the cord from wearing/fraying.
What I needed to know is how to get the wire up from the bottom of an old floor lamp that doesn't come apart. It was my grandparents lamp, cheapo, but I hate to chuck it.
use a beaded chain (the kind that is used for light chains): drop one end of the chain down the lamp tube. Once it appears at the bottom of the tube, duct tape the wire to the chain, then pull it up.
Thanks, I just found your reply in my email. I finally got it through by just pushing a bit and twisting. It is an old floor lamp and barely room for the wire. I tried to get it to twist apart but no go. Much thanks.
FYI - I used an online video to change a light socket and I can assure you, IT MATTERS WHICH WIRE YOU ATTACH TO WHICH SCREW! The wire, when separated, one is perfectly smooth (ground) one is ridged (power). Make sure you attached the ridged wire to the bronze screw and the smooth wire to the white screw. Otherwise you will get fireworks.
You are right. But let's be clear: you must use a polarized plug in order to get a fully grounded lamp as you describe. If you do NOT use a polarized plug -- the kind that has one thin blade (hot) and one fat blade (neutral) -- it does not matter how you wire the lamp socket. Old lamps never had polarized plugs.
Raniertx, You are absolutely correct that it does matter how you connect the wires. (As far as plugs go, you'll have a hard time finding a plug that is not polarized) I believe that you got your hot and neutral wires reversed, however. The neutral wire is the one with ribs/ridges of the zip cord (lamp wire). It connects to the silver screw on the socket and to the wide blade on the plug. The hot wire is the plain/smooth side of the zip cord (lamp wire). This wire connects to the brass screw on the socket and to the narrow blade on the plug. Reference is a page from This Old House: www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-rewire-lamp Thanks, Ed
The one thing I wondered was: How do I get the wire through that long (4 foot?) skinny tube part of the lamp base, and after showing us in detail how to tighten screws, there was no mention of this problem. Is that because the wire easily slips through that long tube so that no fishing tool or anything like that is needed, and therefore you didn't consider it an issue? My lamp has a horizontal arm at the top of the long vertical tube, and that horizontal arm has three "steps" to it, so that the wire goes a few inches horizontally, then goes up a short distance, then goes horizontally, then up, then horizontally again. I don't know how you'd put a wire through that part too.
Steven: lamps like this have a hollow core, so the wire slides in and up easily. With a horizontal arm, you may need to fish the wire down from the arm into the upright tube. Good luck!
@mmr061485 you can not wire the cords eitherway ! The hot (black) should be connected to the brass screw ...leading to the center post and the neutral (white) on the thread of the socket . This way if somebody touched the threaded part of the socket they won't get shocked. Now if they reached down into the socket to the center contact (if their that dumb) then you would get a shock. ....
Look at it this way: You have a burned out bulb, after unscrewing it half way you inadvertently touch the outside bulb contact, the one that is threaded and at the same time touch anything in your house that is grounded and ZAP! you get a shock. Not a good feeling, eh? I admire youre love of old houses and hardware, I wish more people had the same taste. I just don't like seeing instruction on how to do it yourself, that could be dangerous or even deadly.
You made no effort to make sure the hot wire was attached to the proper screw on the lamp bulb receptacle. Normally we should attach the wire which has a SMOOTH covering to the brass screw and the wire with a RIBBED covering to the Nickle screw. Following this will maintain the proper isolation of Hot from Neutral power leads. There are safety implications that come to play when these wires are not attached to the proper connectivity point. BE SAFE - EVEN IF YOU KNOW THINGS WILL BE OK, ALLWAYS FOLLOW CORRECT SAFETY PROCEDURES. You never know who may come along after you assuming all is well.
Ron, actually the sockets get EXTREMELY HOT, enough to burn someone. I cannot give this lamp back to an elderly person as it is. I'll send you a couple of pix on your website.
I'd like to state that it ABSOLUTELY DOES matter which wire goes where. If it's wrong you could get shocked by removing a lightbulb and accidentally touching the metal part.... To avoid frying yourself or your kids follow the above tutorial but BEFORE YOU PUT THE PLUG END ON, use a continuity tester or multimeter to see which wire is connected to the metal socket that the bulb gets screwed into. the one that beeps goes under the silver screw.... not the brass. If you don't know how to use a continuity tester or multimeter to figure out whhich wire goes where ask an electrician.
Lol. Just learn to were? Underwriters knot would keep wire from pulling out of plug. Don't understand polarity? Read up on why you need to use (and wire correctly) a plolrized plug.
Wrong there is a "ribbed" side and a smooth side on lamp cord. The ribbed side is neural, Usually. Electricity does not distinguish between the type of cord or cable used. You must still wire the center lamp contact to the Hot side of the plug. I hope this guy has not wired his own house.
Wrong! it does matter which wire is attached to each terminal. Neutral should connect to the outside of the lamp socket. Hot to the center terminal. Where did you get your electrical training from? People have been electrocuted from lamps and old chandeliers being wired the wrong way. You are providing misleading and dangerous instruction.
Hi, Ron! I also fixed my lamp using your video. Thank you! I even had to rebuild the base parts, and your close ups showed me just how to put it all back together. My husband bought me a new torchiere shade for Christmas, and now it's lit and beautiful. A very fun project thanks to you and your camerawoman!
So glad this helped, Jan -- thanks for your feedback!
Ron! Hope you are safe and well, my friend. Nine years later I'm finding this video very helpful. Thank you and Jill!
God bless you both.
I'm a 78 yr old woman & need to rewire a floor lamp, so I appreciated your demonstration. I have the newer type socket, and think my socket needs replaced as well as the wiring.... but the problem could be in the switch on the side as for a long time, I have had to play around with the switch to get the light to stay on. I wondered if you would do a demo on that sometime, but in the meantime, want to remind everyone that if you buy a whole new kit, because of the plug which goes into your outlet, one would have to run the wiring up thru' the bottom of the lamp BEFORE attaching the socket etc., otherwise the plug won't fit down thru' the pipe. And yes, thanks Joan! See how we often need a woman's input? LOL
Bless you for showing the other version as well! Awesome
Thank you sir! Broke my vintage stained glass lamp switch smooth off the pole but thankfully the wire held and the glass didn't hit the floor. This is very helpful and I appreciate it! :)
I just bought a lovely old mogul floor lamp and will likely need to rewire it, so this was extremely helpful - thanks! I'll err on the side of caution, however, and connect black cord to brass screw. I did it this way when I rewired my mom's old table lamp.
Awesome! Just rewired my brass floor lamp. Perfect instructions!
Thanks for the suggestion to take a picture, it came in handy!
Glad this was helpful, Debo!
So helpful! I needed to reattach wires to my mogul base and this was so clear!
Hi Ron & co: Thanks for the video, which was really helpful. My old Mogul socketed light also has an 'arm' that makes it hard to rethread the new cord.. or maybe the Underwriter's knot is somewhere up in the works.
By the way, while the video is great, I hope you'll consider a quick re-edit (I think you can do this within TH-cam now) to flash some text over the parts on wiring connections like "Correction: it does matter that ribbed goes to white screw/large plug and smooth cord goes to brass screw/small plug" It's not necessary to redo the video, but this is an important point (life or death) and your comments could easily lead many people to wire their lamps in such a way as to cause a shock or a problem.
Thanks!
Love the video i wish i had find it earlier before taking it at part. I will try my best to look at the video to put all the screw i took out. I love my lamp.
You've saved me $90 that an electrician wanted to charge me to rewire a solid brass floor lamp. Thanks!
Fabulous!
Thank you so much for your video. You made this easy to understand...I’m off to find a few parts.
I've rewired lamps with the ceramic sockets, and then did one with the more modern brass socket. I forgot the cardboard - and Ooops! What a bad, dangerous thing to do. It was only a matter of time before metal and metal touched and the bulb and the socket virtually welded together! As for polarity that folks have commented about, a continuity tester is great. (I didn't read every comment, so maybe someone else covered this.) You put the alligator clip of the tester on the wide blade of the plug and, with the needle on the other end of the tester, touch the socket threads (neutral), and it should light. Put the clip on the narrow blade, and touch the tester to the gizmos on the floor of the socket (the 'hot' part) and the tester should light (you may need to try the switch if it doesn't - it won't light if the lamp switch is in the off position). My most recent torchiere had some sort of stop nut (smooth and round outside, not like a hex nut) on the bottom of the rod, about threads about 2" up on the rod. Wasn't sure what to do with that!
David G. I have an update. Our lamps i figured it out, the cover comes apart easily. it is just pressed on. once u loosen the top bulb socket by unscrewing it thus gaining at least 2-3 inches then remove the small screw at the top of the cover over the switch. then twist the cover back and forth to loosen it, then attempt to cock it to one side a bit, once you achieve that take a small screw driver and insert it into the small opening that u should see and gently pry the lid off and reveal the switch. Hope this helps!
Hello Ron,
Great video! I have a question. I will change the socket in an older floor lamp to a polarized socket, but I'd like to continue to use the non-polarized cord if possible. Is this advisable? Or would it be best to go ahead and get new polarized lamp cord as well?
Safety first, Steve: go ahead and use a polarized plug.
@@tannertoys Thank you, Ron!
Thanks, Ron, that was amazingly helpful!
Thank you so much for the super clear and simple explanation! I'm about to do this myself now. : )
I'm planning on rewiring a chandlier. I might be in over my head.
"Thank you Joan" ;)
You are absolutely right -- but only if you're using a polarized plug, which I'm not in this instance. If you're using a standard, old-style (non-polarized plug), there is no distinguishing between the hot and neutral . . . unless you mark one side of the plug as hot and are mindful of plugging it into your receptacle that way.
Thank you for your informative video. Hi, from New Zealand.
Hi, from Maryland
Where would I look for the glass globe bowl part to purchase? I’ve got a cool brass lamp I would like to fix. Watching this video made me realize the globe bowl is missing. Thanks. Looks easy enough to try!
Thank you for making this!
Ron. Thing is, that the floor lamp has a different top than my usual tops.
As yours did, I have the brown metal piece and inside is a white socket like you have but much smaller.
I'd like to put in a 3 way switch, like I use on my table lamps. It does fit.
Can I just put the other switch on the lamp? I'm looking to learn if I can put the new one on the lamp without having problems in the future.
And why are the different? What is the purpose of the old one vs. the new ones.
I did appreciate your video.
To get that cord through the 5 pieces of the lamp was an ordeal. based on how the poles were made. Took me an hour to figure out to use skewer sticks, electrical tape and a scissors.
I appreciate your comments and especially appreciate your civility. And you are right: wiring a lamp the old fashioned way is not as safe as it could be (although I have never received a shock from these old lamps). That said, I will post a more complete version of lamp rewiring that discusses polarized plugs and wiring that ensures the safety these plugs afford. Thanks much.
I wish you would have shown how you got the cord through the tiny pipe. Thank you for the other tips.
Hello, great video Ron! I have a similar lamp, but no matter how one might envision taking apart, I cannot get past removing the switch, when I turn it counterclockwise, it just clicks once-per-revolution and keep turning and turning without unscrewing, any thoughts that would help me - thank you!
Hi, Craig: typically a switch on these lamps is a small crenelated stub that protrudes about one inch. It's secured to the hole with a threaded washer on the other side of the hole. It's called a "rotary switch." Do an internet search for that. Or go here: www.amazon.com/Lamp-4-Position-Circuit-Rotary-Removable/dp/B01LYCHAMM. The switch isn't coming out because the threaded washer is stuck. You've got to get inside and squirt it with oil, maybe clamp a needle nose pliers to it and turn it loose. Best of luck!
This was super helpful thank you!!
Suggestions on how to find a base like that. Mine is broken.
Thanks Ron! I have a single 3-way bulb, but it flickers on and off (mostly off) when moved slightly. I assume that this is because there is a bad connection somewhere. Why replace the wire? Couldn't I just take everything apart, make sure the connections are good, then put it back together? Maybe clip a few inches off the old cord to get fresh wire on either or both ends (plug and bulb-socket) and lose a few inches in the process, but that would be ok? Or is there some reason that new wire is better?
I very much liked your video -- information and presentation was quite good. Thanks again!
Sounds like you have loose wires at the plug. A fire hazard. Or loose wires at the screws at the socket. I replace old wire only when its covering is brittle, corroded, or split, etc. If your wire is sound and you have only a loose connection, there's no need to replace the wire.
Ah, I had not considered the brittleness of covering. I'm not sure I can judge brittleness and the lamp is 40 years old at the very least, so I will replace it. Much appreciated!
Ron,
I rewired an old lamp, with TWO sockets. It was very challenging combining the central wire with the two sockets, as there is a center 'cup' that the two sockets attach to, and maneuvering inside that cup for all the wiring was tricky. After splicing the wires up the center and the two sockets, I attached one of the center wires with one wire each of the sockets to disperse.
I finally got it all done and working well. However, now having the light on for even less than an hour, with only 40 watts in each socket, both sockets are extremely hot...
Can you advise? Did I do something wrong in the wiring? Should I have just taken one side of the central wire to the left socket, and one to the right, and not combined them?
Steven, it's okay if the sockets get hot. That happens with every lamp. The question is, do the wires get hot? Send me a diagram of what you did because I can't quite picture it yet: ron(at)houselove.org
Ron, thanks for making and sharing this video. I curious to know if I should use electrical tape for the plug just like you did on the socket.
+CaptnMexico21
Sorry I missed this: yes, I use electrical tape wherever I can, as long as it stays neat
I have one where the switch is a 3 way for 3 bulbs, but this switch is located on the pole. You grab it & twist it to turn on 1, 2, or all 3 lights. When I start dismantling this floor lamp, is this rotating switch, located roughly 2/3 up the pole, going to be an issue? It works, I just have burned sockets & no doubt loose wires.
If you don't mess with the switch but only rewire the sockets, it should be okay. Those 3-way switches are tricky. Good luck!
Hi Ron.......I have one of the old Corning 3 way floor lamp that has the additional 3 arm candle lights on the side. Can you give me advice on how to disconnect the part cover that holds it all together so I can get access to the candle arms so that I can rewire them? It turns slightly to what seems to unlock the hold, but they just don't come apart. I also need to replace one of the two switches that need to be replaced. I wish I had the ability to upload a picture to show you my exact problem I am having. Can you please help?
+David Gingras
David: I'm sorry I can't help much without a picture to refer to because these lamps were made in various ways Here's a link to a parts website so you can get switches.:
www.grandbrass.com/ShowItem.cfm?ItemNumber=SW573BP&session.currentcategory=Switches&session.currentsubcategory=Fixture%20Switches
Best,
Ron
+David Gingras So did you find how to get that cover off that covers the 4 way switch? i HOPE SO , because I also need to know how, and hoping you will reply back to me soon. I was about to ask Ron the same question when i saw you had already. Thank you David
I have an old torchier floor lamp with a heavy glass torchiere shade and a heavy brass torchier holder. The lamp has been rewired with new wiring, a new plug, and a new porcelain socket. I use a 100/200/300 watt trilight bulb. No matter what level I use on the light, the brass torchier holder gets so burning hot that you cannot keep your hand on it for more than two or three seconds. Is it supposed to be that way? What could be wrong? Thanks.
It should not get that hot. Try using an LED replacement. Also check that the wiring to the socket is tight. Loose wires are a fire hazard.
Can I buy the light socket yet today this is 2021 and where?
So I'm trying to replace the plug. The cord on this lamp also has 2 uncolored wires. But my question is, which one goes on the black screw and which one goes on the silver screw. Does it matter? I know black cord to black screw white cord to silver screw and ground to green screw. But this cord has no color code and im worried about rewiring it backwards. Any tips?
I have a lamp with this type of socket. Is there a way to re-wire to the newer style? Or just getting an adapter the only option? I have to wire it either way, but thought I’d check.
Instead of putting in a new socket, just get an adapter for a "mogul" socket. Google "adapter for mogul socket"
Is it necessary to also redo the actual plug? Or can you buy a cord with the plug already attached?
Yes, you can do that.
@@tannertoys I tried and got so far as the light socket, which has a chain pull, this is where things went down hill:( It was so old and came apart. I guess I buy a new socket? And thank you, I'd be totally list without this video😁
Ron, what can you tell me about repairing/replacing the lamp-stand switch on a Stiffel floor lamp (which has mogul three way socket) but where you pull down on the shaft to turn lamp on and off without having to turn the three-way switch near the bulb? This second lamp-stand switch is hidden. It does not appear when you take the cardboard off the bottom of the base.
POLARCH I would need to see a photo of this. Some switches you simply have to replace. Yours may look like this:
www.grandbrass.com/ShowItem.cfm?ItemNumber=SW573BP&session.currentcategory=Switches&session.currentsubcategory=Fixture%20Switches
Ron, can you help me? I recently restored an old floor lamp of my mothers. It has a mogul center light on one switch and three arms coming out of the center with a bulb on each arm. There is a switch for these lights which I think is supposed to turn on one bulb, two bulbs, all three bulbs and then off. I can only get it to turn on two bulbs, one bulb, three bulbs and then off. Is it miss-wired?
Hi, KS: Sorry to say those 3-way switches are tricky and I don't know how to they work (when they don't work). Wish I had an answer! Best bet is to find a shop that repairs vintage lamps.
@@tannertoys Thanks for your reply.
I'm trying to repair a floor lamp, but I can remove the little pin that the plastic knob screws onto. I can't get the bad part out with that little pin sticking out. I was wondering if it unscrews out. I tried, but it wouldn't budge.
Do you know here can I find a replacement for the original porcelain housing and mounting bracket?
Just do an internet search for "antique lamp parts" or go here
www.vintagehardware.com/vintage-light-stem-kits-ceiling-kits-fitters-lamp-parts.php?cat=297
Is there some way I could send you photos of my bulb base and you help me figure out how to get it back together the right way?
I think its crazy how in AC Voltage you can wire the cords eitherway. But thats Alternating current in a Lamp mechinism for you...
It's not because AC is alternating current and, as noted here in lots of the comments, it is important to wire the non-ribbed wire to copper (hot) and the ribbed wire to silver/not hot. It's also important to make an underwriters' knot to keep the cord from wearing/fraying.
What I needed to know is how to get the wire up from the bottom of an old floor lamp that doesn't come apart. It was my grandparents lamp, cheapo, but I hate to chuck it.
use a beaded chain (the kind that is used for light chains): drop one end of the chain down the lamp tube. Once it appears at the bottom of the tube, duct tape the wire to the chain, then pull it up.
Thanks, I just found your reply in my email. I finally got it through by just pushing a bit and twisting. It is an old floor lamp and barely room for the wire. I tried to get it to twist apart but no go. Much thanks.
Thank you
Ron, I emailed you to the address you gave below. Did you get the pix? Would appreciate some feedback when you have a chance. Thank you.
Steve
how did you thread the new wire through the long rod?
There's plenty of room in the center rod--it's essentially a pipe.
I prefer the standard mogul bulbs. They're easy to get in my area.
Which one is a hot wire and which one is a neutral wire
thanks
FYI - I used an online video to change a light socket and I can assure you, IT MATTERS WHICH WIRE YOU ATTACH TO WHICH SCREW! The wire, when separated, one is perfectly smooth (ground) one is ridged (power). Make sure you attached the ridged wire to the bronze screw and the smooth wire to the white screw. Otherwise you will get fireworks.
You are right. But let's be clear: you must use a polarized plug in order to get a fully grounded lamp as you describe. If you do NOT use a polarized plug -- the kind that has one thin blade (hot) and one fat blade (neutral) -- it does not matter how you wire the lamp socket. Old lamps never had polarized plugs.
rainiertx Oh My!!
Lillian Blessing While the video was helpful always be careful when working with electricity of course.
Raniertx,
You are absolutely correct that it does matter how you connect the wires. (As far as plugs go, you'll have a hard time finding a plug that is not polarized)
I believe that you got your hot and neutral wires reversed, however.
The neutral wire is the one with ribs/ridges of the zip cord (lamp wire). It connects to the silver screw on the socket and to the wide blade on the plug.
The hot wire is the plain/smooth side of the zip cord (lamp wire). This wire connects to the brass screw on the socket and to the narrow blade on the plug.
Reference is a page from This Old House:
www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-rewire-lamp
Thanks,
Ed
i like your wall
I have 3 screws And 4 wires. I forgot what goes where. Can you help
Hi I had a question my light is making a sound what do I do ??
The one thing I wondered was: How do I get the wire through that long (4 foot?) skinny tube part of the lamp base, and after showing us in detail how to tighten screws, there was no mention of this problem. Is that because the wire easily slips through that long tube so that no fishing tool or anything like that is needed, and therefore you didn't consider it an issue? My lamp has a horizontal arm at the top of the long vertical tube, and that horizontal arm has three "steps" to it, so that the wire goes a few inches horizontally, then goes up a short distance, then goes horizontally, then up, then horizontally again. I don't know how you'd put a wire through that part too.
Steven: lamps like this have a hollow core, so the wire slides in and up easily. With a horizontal arm, you may need to fish the wire down from the arm into the upright tube. Good luck!
Can install a led lamp instead?
+PoohFuckingPooh
You can insert an LED bulb--there are lots of products now that house LEDs inside a conventional style bulb.
@mmr061485 you can not wire the cords eitherway ! The hot (black) should be connected to the brass screw ...leading to the center post and the neutral (white) on the thread of the socket . This way if somebody touched the threaded part of the socket they won't get shocked. Now if they reached down into the socket to the center contact (if their that dumb) then you would get a shock. ....
Then do so. Be Safe and have fun.
Ron great video. Does the adapter work on 3 way switch?
Thanks, Delia: Yes, there's only one kind of mogul adapter.
Look at it this way: You have a burned out bulb, after unscrewing it half way you inadvertently touch the outside bulb contact, the one that is threaded and at the same time touch anything in your house that is grounded and ZAP! you get a shock. Not a good feeling, eh? I admire youre love of old houses and hardware, I wish more people had the same taste. I just don't like seeing instruction on how to do it yourself, that could be dangerous or even deadly.
Missing the knot.
You made no effort to make sure the hot wire was attached to the proper screw on the lamp bulb receptacle. Normally we should attach the wire which has a SMOOTH covering to the brass screw and the wire with a RIBBED covering to the Nickle screw. Following this will maintain the proper isolation of Hot from Neutral power leads. There are safety implications that come to play when these wires are not attached to the proper connectivity point. BE SAFE - EVEN IF YOU KNOW THINGS WILL BE OK, ALLWAYS FOLLOW CORRECT SAFETY PROCEDURES. You never know who may come along after you assuming all is well.
You are right--I've been meaning to include this in an update (you can find the info. farther below, in an addendum). Thank you!
Ron, actually the sockets get EXTREMELY HOT, enough to burn someone. I cannot give this lamp back to an elderly person as it is. I'll send you a couple of pix on your website.
I'd like to state that it ABSOLUTELY DOES matter which wire goes where. If it's wrong you could get shocked by removing a lightbulb and accidentally touching the metal part....
To avoid frying yourself or your kids follow the above tutorial but BEFORE YOU PUT THE PLUG END ON, use a continuity tester or multimeter to see which wire is connected to the metal socket that the bulb gets screwed into. the one that beeps goes under the silver screw.... not the brass.
If you don't know how to use a continuity tester or multimeter to figure out whhich wire goes where ask an electrician.
Clarify, please. We're talking about lamp cord here, not service wiring to outlets etc. There is no hot/neutral, black/white on lamp cord.
Lol. Just learn to were? Underwriters knot would keep wire from pulling out of plug. Don't understand polarity? Read up on why you need to use (and wire correctly) a plolrized plug.
Wrong there is a "ribbed" side and a smooth side on lamp cord. The ribbed side is neural, Usually. Electricity does not distinguish between the type of cord or cable used. You must still wire the center lamp contact to the Hot side of the plug. I hope this guy has not wired his own house.
I thought you were gonna show us how to replace the switch. but no.
Wrong! it does matter which wire is attached to each terminal. Neutral should connect to the outside of the lamp socket. Hot to the center terminal. Where did you get your electrical training from? People have been electrocuted from lamps and old chandeliers being wired the wrong way. You are providing misleading and dangerous instruction.