Very cool to hear a world class surfer describe his thought process as it relates to his boards. A lot of your feel for a board seems to come from the boards volume. Is the volume of the board arrived by calculation (no mean feat) or water displacement?
Dimensions have always done me quite well i dont really focus on volme and that theory hasn't failed me to date in the past few decades Thanks for sharing as always my friend Be well and God Bless You and Yours also very excited to films debut Stay Safe and take great care of yourself and 👍🤙
I agree 100%. Volume does matter though… cause a board can seem too small/big dimensionally but be right. Like my 5’10” ghost for example. I wouldn’t have bought it cause of dims alone, too wide I thought, but the volume had me go for it, and I love it
@@brettbarley Point taken you are the pro and value your professional opinion I guess it's what works for the individual rider Hope all is well Take care of yourself my friend I'm always looking forward to your honest opinions and content The best imo Stay Safe and Take of yourself as well 👍🤙
Well volume is a function of dimensions… so they scale with each other. In other words, you do care about volume, you just break it down into dimensions.
@@davidshaw164Though, one can vary the volume a fair bit for a fixed set of dimensions. Foil, rails, deck vs stringer rocker. Lots of places to hide or prune volume in the curves.
This is an awesome series from the standpoint of someone trying to build an appropriate quiver for similar waves! What’s your height and weight? Would help to know to see what dims work for you in certain waves with consideration to your height and weight
Great stuff. Really helps. If you could only pick three boards for your quiver, here on east coast, what would you pick? It is awesome for you that you can go in 2" increments, but my budget is about one board a season (and trade in one board every three years), so I usually have 3 boards in 6" increments.
What kind of ear protection have you been using since your treatment for surfer's ear? Is wearing the hood aggravating or beneficial for the ears? I've been on the purple Mack's myself but they really aggravate my tinnitus. Happy holidays from Socal btw!
I use SurfEars. But with a hood I don’t need them. No water getting blasted in my ears with a hood on, so I only wear ear plugs in spring/fall when I’m in neoprene and no hood
@@brettbarleyThanks for your thoughts on this. I just started on surf ears this fall and should have been wearing them for years I suppose (up here in Canada). I figured a hood alone was good enough, and certainly more comfortable...
I’m not sure. I’m sure it would work for someone… but I’ve found once I step up I like a standard gun shape. Which is my shortboard dims, but in 6’4”, 6’6”, 6’8” etc.
Good stuff, the only thing I missed was the tails , so much gained or lost with box or swallow tail designs when trying different volumes I feel , love to hear your take on the way the tail gives or takes away speed / plus the effects of fin size and shapes when going more gunned under rocker type boards 🤙🏽
In your opinion…Do you shoot for getting your step ups (6’4” and 6’6”) an 1/8” narrower or a 1/4” narrower in width vs. your daily driver/performance short board and keeping the thickness the same or 1/8” thicker in the step ups? I’ve heard step ups should be 3-5 liters more than your daily driver. Everything I’ve researched seems to go this way and certainly looks like that’s your thought process here as well minus the literage? What do you think?
no... you dont NEED a top of the line quiver to have fun and get good waves. but being that I surf professionally and have the quiver, this is just for fun to break it down for anyone wondering.
I heard from another pro, that even in giant surf, riding a shorter board. Is this the new direction among surfers going shorter and shorter. Lots of respect you are always putting in the reps at your home break. 💪👍🤙💰
![TEEDEE TADA - DIAMOND NARAKORN X LEGO LYKN [Special Dance Performance]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QgtZedFeumA/mqdefault.jpg)
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For the record I’m 5’9” and my weight fluctuates from 161lbs-165lbs
(maybe more around winter holidays 🙈)
Great idea for board nerds like myself. Keep at it 👍
Class in session 👏
Great content, always good to know what boards are working on what wave conditions. Thank you!
Blessings for the New Year 🎉🌎☮️❤️
Definitely appreciate the board breakdown and why you rode them 🤙
Very cool to hear a world class surfer describe his thought process as it relates to his boards. A lot of your feel for a board seems to come from the boards volume. Is the volume of the board arrived by calculation (no mean feat) or water displacement?
Another South Swell comin🏆🏆🏆
Love it
Dimensions have always done me quite well i dont really focus on volme and that theory hasn't failed me to date in the past few decades Thanks for sharing as always my friend Be well and God Bless You and Yours also very excited to films debut Stay Safe and take great care of yourself and 👍🤙
I agree 100%. Volume does matter though… cause a board can seem too small/big dimensionally but be right. Like my 5’10” ghost for example. I wouldn’t have bought it cause of dims alone, too wide I thought, but the volume had me go for it, and I love it
@@brettbarley Point taken you are the pro and value your professional opinion I guess it's what works for the individual rider Hope all is well Take care of yourself my friend I'm always looking forward to your honest opinions and content The best imo Stay Safe and Take of yourself as well 👍🤙
If I had to pick one or the other Dimensions are most important to picking.
Well volume is a function of dimensions… so they scale with each other. In other words, you do care about volume, you just break it down into dimensions.
@@davidshaw164Though, one can vary the volume a fair bit for a fixed set of dimensions. Foil, rails, deck vs stringer rocker. Lots of places to hide or prune volume in the curves.
This is an awesome series from the standpoint of someone trying to build an appropriate quiver for similar waves! What’s your height and weight? Would help to know to see what dims work for you in certain waves with consideration to your height and weight
5’9” x 161-165lbs
Great stuff. Really helps. If you could only pick three boards for your quiver, here on east coast, what would you pick? It is awesome for you that you can go in 2" increments, but my budget is about one board a season (and trade in one board every three years), so I usually have 3 boards in 6" increments.
Hey Brett! Awesome new series for the channel! Loved it! QQ: they are all poly blank + epoxy glassing, right?
yes all poly... no epoxy glassing on the tube boards.
Curious - what is your current height/weight to assess volume? Probably already posted somewhere. thx
asked the same question, key detail
thamks Brett! love the vlog!!
Great to hear all about the boards but how tall are you and what do you weigh ?
5’9” x 161-165lbs
Great video. I'm curious about the Maurice Cole you had in your hands at the beginning of the vid. Will you review that some time when you ride it?
oh ya... there will be a video on that coming. still gathering clips though for now
What kind of ear protection have you been using since your treatment for surfer's ear? Is wearing the hood aggravating or beneficial for the ears? I've been on the purple Mack's myself but they really aggravate my tinnitus. Happy holidays from Socal btw!
I use SurfEars. But with a hood I don’t need them. No water getting blasted in my ears with a hood on, so I only wear ear plugs in spring/fall when I’m in neoprene and no hood
@@brettbarleyThanks for your thoughts on this. I just started on surf ears this fall and should have been wearing them for years I suppose (up here in Canada). I figured a hood alone was good enough, and certainly more comfortable...
The board 2nd to the right? We gotta know. Wood.
Yes! Wish all pro surfers did this
Would a 6'2" or 6'4" Ghost do good on the really big days or is the design just not right for that size?
I’m not sure. I’m sure it would work for someone… but I’ve found once I step up I like a standard gun shape. Which is my shortboard dims, but in 6’4”, 6’6”, 6’8” etc.
Good stuff, the only thing I missed was the tails , so much gained or lost with box or swallow tail designs when trying different volumes I feel , love to hear your take on the way the tail gives or takes away speed / plus the effects of fin size and shapes when going more gunned under rocker type boards 🤙🏽
All round tails.
In your opinion…Do you shoot for getting your step ups (6’4” and 6’6”) an 1/8” narrower or a 1/4” narrower in width vs. your daily driver/performance short board and keeping the thickness the same or 1/8” thicker in the step ups? I’ve heard step ups should be 3-5 liters more than your daily driver. Everything I’ve researched seems to go this way and certainly looks like that’s your thought process here as well minus the literage? What do you think?
I like to get them the same width/thikcness as my daily boards. maybe a hair thicker...
but also... to each his own. everyones ability is different an their approach to a wave.
Thank you for the advice!
Alright y'all... Is that Currituck, Wancheese, or Buxton?.. C'mon? Black boots or white boots?
Grey boots 😂
So if u have an extra 10 grand you can be a surfer too. That's a sport everyone can enjoy!
no... you dont NEED a top of the line quiver to have fun and get good waves. but being that I surf professionally and have the quiver, this is just for fun to break it down for anyone wondering.
Your board furthest to the left at 6'8"?
You just rode a 5'10"??? Didn't break out the guns?
ya
I heard from another pro, that even in giant surf, riding a shorter board. Is this the new direction among surfers going shorter and shorter. Lots of respect you are always putting in the reps at your home break. 💪👍🤙💰
Why did you decide against any 6’0- 6’2 ?
Because my 5’10”-5’11” boards paddle the equivalent of a 6’0”-6’2”. So I don’t need anything between them and 6’4”
❤🙏🏼🤙🏼
What’s the movie called that your bing out plus many Blessings to you and your family and friends in Jesus name
Haven’t settled on a name quite yet… so it’ll be revealed with a trailer once I do.