How To Repoint Old Brickwork - The Easy Way With No Experience
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 พ.ค. 2024
- Published on 3rd May 2021
If your wall has holes or soft mortar, this video will provide the support and knowledge you need to get stuck in. Consider subscribing to help me grow the channel and help others learn more about DIY.
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Power Tools I Use:
DeWalt DCF887 Impact Driver 18v XR
DeWalt DCH273 SDS Hammer Drill 18v XR
DeWalt DCD996 Combi Drill 18v XR
DeWalt DCG412 Angle Grinder 18v XR
DeWalt DCD118 18v Charger
DeWalt DCB184 5ah 18v Battery
DeWalt Sander 240v
4” Angle Grinder
9” Petrol Saw
Table Saw
Makita Router
Makita Planner
Mitre saw
Bricklaying Kit I Use:
Marshalltown Trowel
Marshalltown Pointing Trowel
Bullnose Trowel
Gauging Trowel
Brick jointers
1200mm Stanley Fat Max Level
600mm Stanley Level
Stanley Fat Max Boat Level
Lines
Foot Print Pins
Fisco Brick Tape
Tape Measure 5m
Tape Measure 8m
Carpenters Pencil
Brick Hammer
Eastwing Lump Hammer 4lb
Bolsters 2”
4”
Plugging Chisel
Wire Brush
Soft Hand Brush
Corner Blocks
Gloves
4” Diamond Blade Disc
Mortar Raking Disc
Angle Grinder
Bucket
DeWalt Cross Line Laser Level
DeWalt Laser Detector
Telescopic Measuring Staff
Block Saw
Hand Tools I Use:
Carpenters Pencil
Chalk Line
Sledge Hammer
Electrical Snips
Pliers
Claw Hammer
Folder Square
Framing Square
Engineers Square
Saw
All the other stuff:
50m 240v Extension Cable
15m 240v Extension Cable
Hop up
Wheel Barrow
Big Gorilla Bucket
Small Gorilla Bucket
Impact Driver Bits
Masonry Drill Bits
Metal Drill Bits
Wood Drill Bits
Filming kit:
Canon M50
Tripod
Rode Mic
Go Pro Action Camera - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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If you found this video helpful, you'll also want to watch my video on how to mix mortar for bricklaying th-cam.com/video/pTrISIr8614/w-d-xo.html
simply life changing ive pointed the wall, wife and kids. i even lay my sausages side by side and point the gaps with my mash. I'm totally hooked
Come do mine then. You wont want paying much either will ya seeing as you enjoy it so much
Videos like this are some of the best content on youtube. Thank you so much for the clear instructions and advice.
Thanks Grahame!
😂
Excellent video! Straight to the point. Extremely useful tips. No nonsense. Thank you
Thank you so much for sharing and explaining in a very simple way. Great job
Thank you for explaining each tool. I am doing a DIY and couldn't figure out how to use all the tools you explained in your video. I appreciate the side by side comparation really helped me think through how to approach the job.
Your welcome, I’m pleased the video can be of use. All the best with your project.
Thank you so much, this was carefully explained in a simple way! Very much looking forward to feeling a real achievement by saying “actually we did this ourselves!” A real accomplishment for me with a secretarial background!
Hi Val,
Thanks, I’m glad you found it helpful, that’s the whole purpose of my channel. Take your time and it’ll look great.
It's nice to see a tradesman that can actually do pointing correctly. I live in Northumberland and it is just about impossible to find somebody who can do pointing correctly.
????????
I do not get why though, blade the joints out to 20mm max, fill and point, its one of the most time consuming but easiest jobs about laying and brick work
Ok kids, time for a bit of expert teaching: The soft mortar that he rakes out easily is lime mortar. This is just lime and sand and is what these old houses were originally built with. No cement. The grey stuff in the joints is cement repointing which someone applied a good few years ago but is now failing. He's using a disc on period brickwork which can be very damaging and also creates a lot of dust. Best to connect to a decent vacuum. What's on the trowel is cement mortar. This is neither flexible nor porous and seals joints leading to damp and spalled brickwork. Cement has all the lime burnt out of it and is very unfriendly to the environment. Always use lime on lime built houses. Don't even add cement to your lime mortar otherwise it becomes a cement mortar. Always use like-for-like materials.
I'm using 4 sand .5 cement and .5 lime on an old 1900s house . I tried using just lime and sand but found the mix too soft and light in colour. The current mix I'm using seems to match the existing quite well in terms of hardness but I'm still unsure if its right
@@greyman8695 That's not too bad a mix. Translated when doubled up, i.e. 1:1:8, then you wouldn't be too far off the historic cement mix of 1:2:9. This proved to be successful in building when cement made it's way on-site after WW2. If I were to use cement then personally I'd go with 1:2:9 as that has been found to be without problems as far as cracking is concerned. But it won't be vapour permeable so could lead to moisture retention - otherwise known as damp. If you reduce your volumes, i.e. use smaller containers with which to gauge, then you could easily get a more masonry-friendly mortar than 1:1:8.
Thanks, appreciate that info .
@@michaeljamesdesign I do have quite a few spalled bricks from some previous ivy growth . I wonder if I should maybe experiment with a lime mix again and cut out the cement totally.
@@greyman8695 Cement and lime are mutually exclusive materials. Neither will complement one another. Stick with a good NHL3.5 and you won't go too far wrong. 1:2.5 but don't use building sand as it's not angular enough and it's unwashed which makes it look shite. Combine some nice sharp and another washed aggregate of your choice.
That was great! Very useful tips and right to the point. We’ll done!
A first class Video, thank you for the step by step guide. You are clearly a craftsman! I feel ready to have a go myself, now.
Thanks Paul, I appreciate the feedback
“Knock off all the snots with a brush” 😂 thats me leaving little bits around the joints! great video. This reassured me i can repoint my old front garden wall albeit very slowly like a rookie 😅
Yeah that’s right, snots are the excess mortar left after jointing. When they’re dry they’re easy to get rid of by brushing them off. Slow is better than not having a go. Good luck pointing your garden wall.
Excellent!! just what I've been looking for...step by step detail. Easy to follow (great that you showed the two options), I'll definitely be trying this 👍👍
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback 😀
How did you got on
Easy and the best way to fill joints. Thanks ! Cheers from Helsinki.
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback
Great video. You made it easy to understand how to do it.
Well Berkeley builds, - ya got a good conversation going there -- lot's of education for us beginning 😉
Excellent. I'll be trying this on a front 4x6 foot step made of a horizontal facing of brick where a lot of the mortar has broken up and is loose. Your technique helps me understand how to work with the mortar. Really cool. Can't wait to try it and fix that situation.
Good luck with the step John, glad the video helped.
Cheers, Ben
Well put together video….Im worked well for me doing up my old terraced cottage! Many thanks
Thanks, I’m pleased it was helpful for you. All the best as you do up your terraced cottage. Any questions I’ll be happy to help
Great video. Thanks. One thing that would be helpful is to show any tips you have for applying the mortar into VERTICAL spaces between bricks, when the mortar is more likely to fall off your trowel.
Thanks for the feedback. I plan to make more bricklaying videos with some of those covering trowel control.
Essentially the principle of pointing a horizontal joint (bed joint) and the vertical joint (perp joint) are the same. Tap the trowel when you have some mortar on it to knock out the air as it’ll stick better to the trowel. When you get mortar on the pointing trowel angle the trowel back slightly so the mortar doesn’t slide off. Also limit the time that you hold the trowel vertical.
Thank you for a clear, concise and easil-understandable video. I love the word "snots" 😄
Lol he said snot!
Thanks for posting such a brilliant how to video. Excellent stuff. 🙂
Thanks Wilf appreciate the feedback 👍🏻 Ben
Beautiful work! Well done 👍
Nicely explained, thanks.
Legend, this is super helpful, really appreciate you creating this!
Thanks James! Glad you found it helpful
You make it look so very easy. Thank you.
I’ve had a lot of practice! Keep trying it’ll become easier.
Talented guy - and also made it look so easy :)
Thanks for a good instruction video
Thank you for sharing and teaching
You’re welcome! If there’s a video you’d like me to cover let me know and I’ll do my best to film it.
good video for me as I am working on the mortar of a 100 year old ranch house chimney --thanks
That sounds like a great project. You may need to use a lime mortar opposed to a cement based mortar, best to double check before you start. All the best with repointing the chimney
Thank you very much I cleared up a lot of questions I had just right here in that video so again thank you very much I'm a single woman it's I'm in my early 50s and got a property it's and it's starting to crack so I'm trying to save on money with the hardship and times right now and being as sick as I am myself it's a tough one but your tips and your tricks right there and in this video helped me out a lot thank you again
You’re welcome! I’m pleased the video helped as it makes it all worth. If you haven’t seen my video on mixing mortar that would be a good one for you to watch. All the best with your repointing.
Ben
Perfect thanks for this I have a massive area to do on the side of my house so will be giving it a go 💪
Thanks for checking out my video. I wish you the best with your project!
Quick tip - If you’re new to repointing start in an area that’s seen the least that way it won’t be as obvious if you mess up to start with.
@@BerkleyBuilds yeahp will do. The entire side of the house which is SE facing and protect by next door. Will use Lime 3.5 mix 👍
You are totally amazing!!!!!Thank you!!
Fantastic video so helpful I reall feel confident that I could repoint my wall now
Hi Stephanie. Thanks for watching, I’m glad you found it helpful. Good luck with any pointing project you tackle.
@@BerkleyBuilds Thankyou I am worried about the old bricks that are falling apart from winters gone by tho! How can I replace those or would it just be easier to rebuild the wall ! 🤣
@@stephaniehill81 great question! If it’s a handful of bricks that are damaged or have blown then you can chop them out with a hammer and chisel, then mortar in a new brick. Worst case would be to rebuild the wall but seek advice from a local bricklayer who can view it in person.
@@BerkleyBuilds Thankyou so much I really appreciate all your advice (ps are you Herts based by any chance 🤣)
@@stephaniehill81 I’m East Mids based. My day job as a building inspector does take me south but not that far. Happy to advise you further if you want to send some photos to my email address, You can find it in the About section on my channel page.
Nice video and thanks for sharing! 👏 😊❤
Helpful video. Cheers!
Nice work!
Wonderful bless you
Thanks buddy! This will help me with my mums kitchen 😊
You’re welcome 😀 All the best with your project!
Very Well Done!!!!😃
great tips with the hand movement here ,me mortar gun with sloppy mix all day long, fill joints leave proud wait till touch dry then rub up with tool brush off much quicker .
A sloppy mix for someone experienced may be quicker but for someone who’s a DIYer, it would be messy. My method although slower, gets the best results. A mortar gun is definitely quicker but I wanted to keep tools to a minimum as the average person doesn’t have a mortar gun
Brilliant thanks
Thank you, Sir!!!
Very good chap!
Good explanation brother ❤️🙏
Thanks Sandun
You make it look very easy. So I am going to have a go myself. My big issue is not mixing the cement properly and how long it stays consistent and workable. I shall try first on my outside brick built loo 1930’s. See if ascetically I can achieve a reasonable and hopefully pleasing result. Thank you for sharing this.
You can master anything with a bit of practice. Can I give you a tip with those areas you struggle in.
Consistency and Workability - With workability you can knock up the mortar (adding some water if the mix is going stuff) but you could also mix less and use it before it goes stiff, although it does mean you have to do a bit more mixing! Consistency comes through mixing and isn’t helped that you don’t mix properly. When adding water do it gradually because you can always add more water if needed.
Not mixing properly - Not mixing properly won’t help your consistency as mentioned and will make your mix dry quicker. You need to mix for longer. Your looking for the mix to be like a mousse, holds its form yet is still wet. A liquid mortar plasticiser will also help.
All the best. Ben
@@BerkleyBuilds Thank you Ben so much for sharing this. Greatly and truly appreciated. This is my Easter project and I have your wonderful tips right here to guide me. Brilliant. So lovely to read all these people on your feed that you have helped by sharing such generous tips.
you're a star
ive been doing this the last two days on my mums house and still got so much to do down the ally inbetween my house and next door wth the doors going into each garden... and ive used a trowel to pick up the morter and then just used my fingers with a plastic glove bag on my hand and pushing it in with my fingers and then scraping upwards to catch the excess lol its worked fine for me though and it's even with the front of the house. Some of it is a bit lobsided by nothing a good wire brush scrubbing won't fix.
This is the true DIY way LOL
You’re a brave man Sam to take on such a large project with limited skills. You may find it easier to fill the joints with the mortar on a hawk (a board with a handle underneath, like plasterers use) and a tuck pointer because you can place the hawk next to the wall and push in the mortar. You may find it quicker too. All the best with your project.
EXCELLENT!
Awesome many thanks
Subscribed , thanks 😊 great vid and great tips
Thanks so much man!
great job good insight
I love the amount of remedial work these types of videos generate, after people have had a go and made a complete mess 👍
No remedial work needed, this panel of brickwork was used for demonstration prior to it coming down to make way for a steel beam.
ever ridden a bike and never fallen off.....
@@uttaradit2 ever messed up the walls of your house and wished you hadn’t. I like these videos - the mess people make earns me considerably more than if they’d have left it to a professional in the first place 👍
@@pedropig always so snarky? Seriously.....I mean, go on ya, but no need to act like that.
thank you very useful
Thanks. I’m pleased you found it helpful
Super helpful video. Thanks so much! Will look at your other vids. One query i would have is if there is an equivalent to the hod trick when repointing brick flooring.
I’m glad you found the video helpful.
Tip - When pointing brick floors do a mix as you normally would but add water slowly, you don’t want much. The mortar wants to be stiff with just enough water to hold it together. That way you can push the mortar around making minimal mess and any mess that is made can be wiped away or cleaned with brick cleaner later.
Great video. Thinking of repointing a low brick wall that used to be the bottom of a greenhouse. Top row of bricks seem to pull off easily. How do you decide when to repoint and when to rip it down and start over? Thanks.
Hi Graham, it’s hard to advise without seeing the wall however, ask yourself if it’s structurally unsafe or if it’s quicker to rebuild it.
Thanks, Ben
Found it very useful thanks and read all the comments. I think rather than others criticising it would be better if they just said "in my opinion..." It's like I say to my kids , it's not what you say it's the way you say it. Hope that doesn't put you off posting great video tutorials. Great video.
Thanks Jonny.. I’ll continue to post videos. There will always be someone who has an opinion because that’s the internet but it doesn’t discourage me because it’s worth it knowing I can encourage people to get stuck in.
Just rewatching your video again. Just wanted to know which technique would you say if more weather 'resistant'? ie would the weatherstruck technique help the water run off more or is either technique just as good? To be honest the second one looks easier for a beginner like me but just wondered if it would be long lasting. Thanks
Hi Sharon, thanks for watching! Weatherstruck would offer more weather resistance as water runs off it more easily.
Ben
THANK YOU
You’re welcome, thanks for watching.
Thank you :)
Hi really enjoyed the video the narrative was v good. I live in a single brick thick property and wondered if you had any advice for brick repairs in such a property
Thanks Ian!
You don’t get many single brick properties. Yes, single skin but these are often 9 inch thick. In terms of repairs It all depends on the extent of repair needed. Chopping out a few bricks is more than fine if they’ve have blown faces. Equally repointing the wall if the mortar is crumbling is also possible. What state is your wall in?
@@BerkleyBuilds Some of the bricks facing has cracked / fallen away and I don't want to remove the single bricks as this may mean I have to replaster. How about a video on repairing bricks where the facing is shot?
@@ianw2955 sadly that type of video isn’t one I’m in a position to film currently as I don’t have a wall with blown bricks that I could film. However, if you don’t want to chop out a brick completely because of the fear of damaging plaster inside, then I would suggest an alternative solutions. Provided it’s only a few bricks you could create some brick slips to replace the face of the brick only, while keeping the back of the brick in one piece.
Thanks, really useful. Just wondering. When doing the jointing and need to add a bit of mortar. Is that fresh mortar, or mortar that has gone off a bit?
Good question! You can use either but it’s probably easier with slightly stiff mortar. it can be personal preference though or whatever you have to hand at that time. Don’t use mortar that’s so stiff it crumbles as this will fall out.
You sound like Bear Grylls 😂 Thanks for the video
That’s a great compliment, I’ll take that! Pleased you enjoyed the video 😀
Hello, thanks for the guide and I repointed some cracked pointing 4 weeks ago.However it seems very powdery and is much softer than existing mortar.will it weather and harden in time? Thanks.
Hi Ian, I’m glad you found the video helpful. What ratio was your mortar and was it thoroughly mixed?
Ben
I used blue circle cement and mixed 4/1 sand cement mix as instructions on bag.
Mortar is powdery to an extent if you rub it. Maybe leave it alone or if it’s bad then redo it
Best videi ive come across on this subject. Can I ask, at the end, if after brushing off you still have mortar stains on the bricks, any suggestions? 👍
Thanks Andrew I appreciate it and a great question!
If you still have stains on the face of the bricks when the mortar hasn’t cured then use a rag to buff off the stain. This method works best if the brick has a smoother face.
If you have stains when it’s all dried (the next day) then get some brick acid and pour it into a bucket (dilute if needed), use a brush to scrub the stain then rinse the wall down with plenty of water.
@@BerkleyBuilds Your a star Mr Berkley. I can see a follow coming on. Thank you 👍
Good tutorial... I'm pointing up an old house at the minute but I always get loads of staining, I probably just need practice, will this weather off ? Also im using a 4 to 1... the 1 being 50% cement and 50% lime . Dies this sound OK. Thanks
Hi, if you get mortar on the face of the brick it will stain, try to minimise this by cutting off the excess mortar with your trowel rather than dragging it.
If the existing mortar has lime in it then you need to repoint with a lime mortar else the building won’t breath.
You can let the mortar set up a bit and take a sponge and clean water to clean the brick. Squeeze the sponge out and carefully wipe the brick with it. You can make those brick shine like brand new!
How can you tell what was used?
Really helpful video! Thanks! How do you calculate how much mortar to use based on the size of the area?
Hi Sharon, in all honesty I gauge it by eye through experience but I know that isn’t helpful.
Material are generally inexpensive so I would buy a bag of cement and some bags of sand. You can then see how much this does for your project and buy more accordingly. Each project is different as size of joints can differ.
You can always buy more material.
@@BerkleyBuilds Cheers. I will watch your other video on how to get the best mix. Also, is there an optimum time of year to do this? Would it be advisable to do in Winter or wait til Spring? Thanks
@@sharonmc5192 you certainly don’t want cold or frosty weather as the water in the mix freezes, equally you don’t want it too hot as the mortar drys out to quickly.
Best time of the year is spring and autumn.
I tend to lightly spray it so it doesn't dry out too quick particularly in hot weather or direct sun or cover with plastic.
Dude knows his stuff. Terrific video.
Good to know
Great video for me as I’m going to do some pointing but I don’t know how to get the mortar the right colour to match the existing mortar. Any ideas on this please?
I’m pleased you found the video helpful.
Matching an existing mortar colour can be trial and error. I suggest sourcing local sand and start off mixing up some small test mixes (they only need to be the size of your fist) and wait a few days for them to dry. You can then adjust your mixes according. Try your first test mix as the standard 4:1 (4 building sand : 1 cement unless your house was built with lime mortar).
All the best with your repointing.
Ben
My house is Accrington brick, built 1929. Very solid. I'm looking at doing some pointing on the 'coal shed' as it was. Ideal for practise! Any tips on mortar for that?
Hi Garfield a coal shed is an excellent place to start practicing your pointing skills. I would suggest using some lime in your mortar with a ratio of 4 sand : 1 hydrated lime : 1 cement . Best tip I can give in making mortar is to add water slowly because you can add it but you can’t take it away. Good luck with the pointing, thanks for watching.
@@BerkleyBuilds Thanks so much. My uncle was a builder back in the day. Retired to France now. I picked up a thing or two....time to jog my memory :)
If your home was built in 1929 then it was built with lime mortar so therefore you shouldn’t be using cement in your mix at all , this will result in the faces of your bricks decaying, nhl 3.5 lime should be used,
Thanks for this video. I have some spots where there are holes in the pointing. Any advice on how to fill those? I’m a complete beginner. Thanks!
Sorry for the slow reply, I’d missed your comment.
When you say holes how big are we talking?
If the holes are big enough for water to get into and freeze then point them, especially if they’re deep. If they’re shallow and the mortar is hard just keep an eye on them.
If you point the individual holes the wall may look patchy so use trial and error to get the right colour match on the mortar. Mix up a small amount to the same ratio as a larger mix and leave to dry for a few days.
Good morning, I enjoyed your repot. Wondering, I have found if I take a caulking tube after spent out of the gun, using a metal hanger to insert into the tip to push the plastic cap out of the tube, rinsing the tube, then I used joint compound, filling the tube with joint compound with a putty knife, then placing the plastic cap into the tube I was able to put it into the gun and squirt the joint compound in a more control way. I am going to try it with joint compound, I think I am going to have to cut a bigger hole for the tip. This Old House, tv - a mason was challenged to use a baker's bag with a metal tip. He likes it, it saves time. Of course he was not challenged as to how he mixes the mortar. Care to give it a whirl with a video?
Hi. Mortar guns are good but I find you need the mortar at the right consistency so it flows out the gun and for beginners that’s hard to do. I don’t show a mortar gun in this video as I was demonstrating technique.
I’ve made a video on how to mix mortar, you can find it in the pinned comment or follow this link th-cam.com/video/wfWfidb27xM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=u4knpeCixegEb4jM
gr8 vid
Thanks! Glad you liked it
So whats the difference between weatherstruck and bucket handle finish? Is it just personal preference or have they pro's and cons?
Great question! There is a difference, a weatherstruck joint is almost flat to the wall with a slight angle to the top of the bed joint allowing water to flow off easier, leaving no areas for water to settle and freeze. It’s often a joint seen on older properties. Pro - its more efficient at getting water off the wall, Con - weatherstuck is time consuming. Bucket handle joints are formed with a half round bar creating the bucket handle shape. Often seen on new build houses, Pro - buckle handle joints are quick, Con - they doesn’t look good on period properties.
Can you advise how you colour match to old mortar. I have an external door that requires bricking up. No one seems to have an answer to this question. Many thanks for the video.
It’s a great question. Colour matching is a little bit of trial and error. Before you go about repointing first start by doing some small trial mixes. I use a large yogurt pot to gauge out the material. Start with a standard 4:1 mix and adjust according. Let the mixes dry for a few days then compare with the existing mortar. Use lime instead of cement if your existing mortar is lime based. Hope that helps, all the best with your project.
How long does the masonry have to set/cure before it can be sealed with a clear sealer?
Does it depend on which sealer you go with to determine what level the ph of the masonry has to be before sealing?
Hi Tiffany. Great questions, mortar drys at different rates depending on weather conditions, if it’s in direct sunlight and the air temperature. For what purpose are you needing to seal the brickwork? In most circumstances bricks and mortar should be allowed to breath, especially if it has lime in it.
If you do have to seal it, I would wait at least a week if not two to make sure the mortar is dry. Additionally, follow the guidance from the sealant manufacturer.
Bostik, Thompsons, and Safeguard Europe Stormdry are breathable. I know the Thompsons one can be added before fully cured because waterbased, not sure about the others. Have applied the Bostik solvent based water seal on damp stones and gone in no problem.
Hi in a previous video you have talked about how to mix mortar which you have licked in this video , and I was wondering if the same mixture would be suitable for laying outdoor slabs that will go on top of a driveway
Also could you give the names of the sand and cement you used in the video ?
Hi Junayd the sand I used was building sand and the cement was blue cement, both you can pick up from a builders merchant or B&Q.
Yes you could use that mix to lay slabs, make sure you have a compacted base of hardcore first .
Good luck with your project and thanks for watching.
@@BerkleyBuilds thanks for the reply, what do you mean by compacted base of hardcore?
@@BerkleyBuilds do you mean the stuff that goes in the floor when making a patio?
It’s just some slabs that need relaying on again as they have come off.
@@junaydrahman1883 hardcore is crushed stone. It means you have a firm base to lay the slabs onto, as you don’t want to lay them straight onto soil as that will cause them to lift or move. If you are only relaying the odd few then I would assume the existing base will be fine.
Hi, I am going to attempt it myself, first timer! I notice you only did a small part of the wall, was that just to show us? I want to scrape out the old mortar on all the wall over a couple of days, and then repoint the wall again over a couple of days, should I repoint a small area like you and do it in small bits please? Great video btw, given me confidence to have a go!
I’m pleased you felt confident after watching the video.
Yes, the small patch I did was purely for demonstration purposes. I would normally rake out the whole area I wanted to repoint and clean down, I would then work in 1m square sections starting from the highest bit and working down. I recommend you work in a smaller area you feel comfortable with.
All the best with repointing 👍🏻
@@BerkleyBuilds Thank you, I will be following your channel from now on. x
Hi, can you please advise how can I make sure that the new mortar will be in similar color when it dried with old mortar?
Hi Peter, to achieve this you’ll need to do some small trial mixes to get a close colour match. In the past I’ve used a yogurt pot for my ratios as you don’t need a lot. Do your mix and make sure you keep note of the ratio for each mix, let them dry for a few days and compare.
I repainted the whole side of my house just using mortar with red dye and latex gloves. Being up on a ladder I needed I hand to hold the bucket of mortar and the other to fill the cracks. (My house was built in 1912 and there were massive holes where mortar had fallen out)
I need to repoint my 20 foot chimney too. I need to buy a ladder also. My house was built in 1940. Which mortar mix did you use ?
@@r4ym1n13use a type Mortar
@@PaddleDogC5 Yes I did the job already thanks
Thanks for the video, how would you recommend repairing it the bricks are loose.
Thanks!
If you have a few loose bricks you can take a plugging chisel and chop out the mortar around the brick so you can take it out and either replace it or re-lay the brick. If there are a lot of bricks that are loose which are all in the same area, then get a builder in to assess It.
@@BerkleyBuilds many thanks for the swift response I will see if this is doable, if not admit failure and seek expert advice 😁
@@andymjflemming you’re welcome. Have another look at it, if you have any questions let me know, I can talk you through it.
Good video, I'll point my patio slabs and about six foot of three course brickwork following this.👍
So I need to repoint some brick. I understand everything but the rooms beneath my front porch need repointed from the inside as well. What should I do in this case where I have weak mortar on both sides? Good video. Thanks!
A great question, however without knowing more details I couldn’t give you a full answer. Is the wall beneath your porch below ground? Is it a basement wall? How old is the property? Do you have this issue elsewhere on the house?
If the mortar was bad in the first place meaning it’s always been soft, then you could point both sides so long as the wall was structural stable.
@@BerkleyBuilds Hello and thank you for the reply. Yes the walls beneath my porch are below ground. I have 2 rooms in my basement that take up the same dimensions as the porch above. These rooms are half brick and half concrete block. The brick mortar is so soft I can rub it out with my finger. I can do this from both sides and tonight upon further inspection before I tackle this project I noticed I can pull a couple bricks out. I let them be for now. I can literally see into my basement rooms from outside so I need to figure out my plan of attack. I can send pictures if that helps. Thanks!
@@BerkleyBuilds Addendum....It is a basement wall but like I said it's half brick (up top) and concrete block below. The house was built in the 1930s. The mortar looks very coarse liked its filled with small rocks. Someone has done some repointing I can tell but it was done poorly. The wall is structurally stable. I need to repoint from both sides. Me in the basement first (to practice) and then move outside maybe? Thoughts?
@@maco_5555 thanks for the added more detail.
The stones are likely a course sharp sand. So long as the wall doesn’t have any damp you can repoint it. Considering it’s age you’ll need to use lime instead of cement to help the wall breath. I’d suggest a ratio of 2 building sand, 1 sharp sand, 1 lime. Wise move to start inside, all the best with it 👍🏻
Can you make a video of how to use a pointed trowel in awkward areas and ontop of big holes like boiler flues ontop of expansion foam for beginners but tidy
Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll see what I can do and if I can find some big holes to fill.
We are the martyrs your just smashed tomatos 😂
What should I do about mortar on the face of the bricks ? Also it's a different color . Is there something that will lighten the color of the mortar ?it was done 3 months ago.
Thanks
If you have mortar on the face of the bricks you can remove it by scraping any larger chunks off first, then applying brick acid and using a stiff brush to lift the rest. Make sure to wash off the acid with water.
You can’t change to colour of the mortar once it’s done.
@@BerkleyBuilds thank you
It's a different colour because it's cement. The stuff he's going over is lime. This is nice and creamy and is what should have been used. Use lime: proper heritage mortar.
I have a two story, circa 1900 brick building, soft lime based mortar, and am having it repointed. The mason wants to start at the top and work downward. My intuition is to do the opposite and start at the bottom and work up. Opinion? Thanks.
Thanks for watching.
Great question! I would do the exact same as your mason. What ever the task you always start top down. The method in that is so all dirt falls downwards and doesn’t get on your newly pointed wall. it’s most likely the way he’s always done it and it’s the most efficient.
@@BerkleyBuilds Thanks. That was his rationale. I figured there was no more risk of getting mortar dropping on parts that were already done below than one would get when laying the bricks in the first place, which, of course, is necessarily bottom to top (LOL). I am concerned with incrementally adding more weight from the new mortar above on the lower bricks that have weakened mortar, often a reason for lower mortar deterioration to begin with. If this is not likely the case, I am good with top to bottom.
@@BerkleyBuilds And, thank you so much for your prompt reply. Excellent!
@@hewittmcelroy3711 the act of raking out the old mortar joint doesn’t disturb the structural stability and strength of the wall because only 20mm (2cm) is removed. The bed joint of the brick still has 80% remaining.
I understand your thoughts of building the wall in the first instance but you don’t wash down when you first built the wall, where as you do when repointing. Top down minimises mess and delivers a better end result.
@@BerkleyBuilds Thank you for your excellent help!
Can you safely rake out the old mortar from all of the wall before starting re pointing? or is it better to rake out small areas then repoint in stages to reduce risk of weakening wall than raking out every joint in 1 sweep?
Great question! It’s more than acceptable and safe enough to do all your raking out and clear up in one go. It’s faster and means you only have one clean up.
When raking out you only rake out a depth of 20mm, which doesn’t compromise the structural stability of the wall.
Do you have a video for patching render? Is that something an absolute novice can do? Thanks
Sadly i don’t sorry, I haven’t needed to do any rendering yet. It’s definitely something a novice can do for sure!
All the best with patching your render, any questions drop a comment 👍🏻
nice flexible yelllow bucket. you have a link for it?
Here’s a link
www.screwfix.com/p/ndc-polythenes-polythene-flexi-tub-26ltr/7646k
They’re widely available here in the UK, but I’m not sure where to get them if you’re in America.
How much of a wall should I do at the same time?. I have a whole garden wall to do, should I take out all of it or do a small patch at a time
That’s a good question Fred. I would suggest removing all the old mortar first as that’s the most efficient way to do it. When it comes to repointing, mix up a buckets worth of mortar at a time. Work in an area roughly 1m square or if that’s too large reduce it to half a meter square. Check out my mixing mortar video if you’re unsure on mixing mortar by hand. Good luck with your project.
Cheers, Ben
@@BerkleyBuilds thank you very much for your reply. Much appreciated.
So the rectangle cave line mustache is still in play? You get my point?😂
Very useful . Will give it a go myself now rather than pay some one £800 to do my garage 😂👍
Thanks Lewis. Take your time and you’ll end up with a good result.
@@BerkleyBuilds would it be ok to do a few sections over a few weekends as it’s quite a large area or just do the whole lot in one go ?
@@Cyclerepairz yes, it’s possible to do it in stages.
I would do all the raking out first and wash it down, then you can point it in stages. Make sure you’re consistent with your mortar ratios so you get a consistent colour.
What about all the mess and dust, I have heard about the Miracle utter that works in a drill and does Job very quick and dust free
It is a very messy job you’re right. The average DIYer doesn’t have specialist kit like that and it often isn’t worth the expense to buy a tool like that for their small job.
@@BerkleyBuilds I know Just rang my mate who told me about Miracle cutter, he said all you need is a electric or battery drill, which probably 95% of Over 25 of age own one, and the actual miracle
Cutter he bought was £16, so it was a drill, Miracle Cutter and a trickle of water, seems a cracking bargain to do this so quickly as well, he said he used one cutter for his whole garage with 2 walls needing pointing and he did the job in an hour on the 2 walls yes it did have one window on the one wall, he said it was mad how quick it removed the old cement, and 2 and a half hours to actually replace the pointing,
It sounds damn good to me, he said you can find info and video on TH-cam under miracle cutter, I can’t find it so will ask him to tex me the link
how long does it typically take for that mortar to fully cure after installation??
Good question. Mortar will be approx 60% cured in the first 24hrs but takes a month to reach its full cured strength.
Very Hard and pure cement we have the Crosscut cutters
Quick question how to know if my brickwork is done using lime mortar or cement mortar.
Great question!
The age of the property is a good indicator. Anything more than 100 years old will probably be lime and properties built during the war or there after tend to be cement based. Lime is still used to this day however, it’s not as common.
You can also tell from the colour, how soft the mortar is or from its consistency as lime mortar has a more chalky feel. Hope this answers your question. Thanks, Ben
i have quite a bit of places that need repointed..... was going to call someone.... maybe i will do it myself
Pointing mortar is to wet which leads to more mess on face of brick and more shrinkage hence more cracks.