Making a Bodice Block From a Fitting Shell Pattern
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.ค. 2021
- Make yourself a working bodice block and open up a world of pattern drafting...
Draft your own from "scratch": • Drafting the Basic Pat...
Make one from a dress pattern: • A Lazy Bodice Block Pa...
Curvy Sewing Collective's post on FBA : curvysewingcollective.com/the-...
Some Fitting Shell and Block Patterns:
Butterick: B5627 Fitting Shell, B5628 Plus Size fitting shell, somethingdelightful.com/butte...
McCalls: M2718 Fitting Shell: somethingdelightful.com/m2718, somethingdelightful.com/mccal...
V 1004 Fitting Shell: somethingdelightful.com/v1004
Though the big companies seem to be phasing these patterns out, check ebay, and etsy where there are still many copies : www.etsy.com/search?q=fitting...
Bootstrap Custom Pattern: patterns.bootstrapfashion.com...
Pattern String Codes Patterns: pattern.stringcodes.com/main_s...
Pattern Lab Custom Patterns: patternlab.london/home/
Music and Sound Effects from Epidemic Sound. Other Music from TH-cam Audio Library.
Where I get my pattern drafting paper: atlaslevy.com/Paper_c_13.html (not sponsored)
More from me?
Want to help me continue making more videos? Listen to me ramble on in a monthly podcast? Watch an additional project video each month? Peruse my Patreon here: / theclosethistorian
Blog: theclosethistorian.blogspot.com/
Instagram: / theclosethistorian
Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/shop/TheClosetHi...
Pinterest: / bmesposito
Tumblr: / theclosethistorian
Beauty Instagram: / thehistoriansvanity
Beauty Channel: / thehistoriansvanity
But wait there's more! A PO BOX finally wahoo!
First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
Bianca Esposito
PO Box 632177
Highlands Ranch, CO 80163
Thank you for watching! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
More options? I have gone ahead and made a playlist of all of my sloper and block related videos, which can be found here: th-cam.com/video/weIdvU0g4tk/w-d-xo.html And in the description above there are links directly to several fitting shell patterns and other similar options!
Thank you so much for making a playlist on slopers and blocks. I started drafting my block from your other video based on standardized measurements. My first try with a size 18 was weird everywhere so I am working out my second try with a size 6 and a full bust adjustment. It's nearly perfect. This video is helping me immensely to work out the very few fit issues I have now. I appreciate you so much for sharing this information and for all of the tips and tricks you pass along!
Tip from someone who drafts their own patterns: a lot of wrapping paper has a 1" grid on the back, and is very cheap right after Christmas
Freezer paper is my favorite, I don't cut the pattern out at all. I just lay the pattern out on a light background, place the "wax" side down on the pattern and trace away with a felt tip marker. You end up with a pattern that can be reused for a long time.
OMFG!!! I used so sooo much wrapping paper when I was adjusting a corset pattern! I've never met anyone else who uses it for pattern paper. I have actual pattern paper as well as some tracing/drafting paper, but I didn't want to use those Expensive Papers on a bajillion drafts of a corset while I worked out the fit 🙃 and some leftover rolls from Christmas were an absolute lifesaver during that project. (Also, not gonna lie, I really like turning over my pattern peices and seeing the pretty tartan that would have been the outside of a gift)
Be sure to measure the grid squares on back of wrapping paper. I made the mistake of assuming they are 1" squares.
@@lowriderchik oh yeah, definitely do that. (mine were indeed 1" squares but now I see that one can never be completely sure)
Also goodwill sells wrapping paper as well
I DID IT!!! I made my bodice block! I watched this video ages ago thinking “I’ll come back to this later…” and that day has finally come. 14 (I think) versions, 10 metres of calico, and a million weird fit issues later…and it is finally perfect. Or at least, perfect enough lol. With this, I shall be unstoppable.
I would not have even considered this to be possible without your wisdom and guidance. Thank you for everything you do!
Congratulations! Now the actual fun begins after the pain 😅❤
It looked fantastic for only a 3rd mock up. I like to remove the seam allowance from the neckline and armholes because I can visualize better where it needs to sit. And one thing I think is worth doing: sew your mock up and wear it for a few hours. The wrinkles in it will show you things that will need fixing but didn't show when you were just trying it on. This is particularly useful when you have a skirt mock up attached to the bodice. Walk, bend over, sit down, cross you legs, do what you'd normally do. It will show if you need to shorten or add to your waist and even on the side seams. The way it fits and feels will tell you a lot about adjustments that need to be made.
Such a great tip!
Smart
What a great idea and makes sense the mock-up is going to be ironed when you start and then relax as you wear Thank you for suggesting it!
Thank you Leonardo! And those are some excellent tips for sure!
So helpful Thankyou
I am into my 55th year of sewing and this is the first doable block-pattern lesson I have ever come across! Thank you.
I did it! Yesterday I drafted my own bodice block from scratch--as you show in one of your other videos, and today I drafted trousers! Yay!
I wouldn't have tried without you, Bianca. Thank you.
After a lifetime of ill-fitting clothing both bought and made. After giving up in tears over ever fitting a pants pattern to me, I finally see light at the end of the tunnel. I know mock-ups are not easy, but I'm excited!
Perfection is the enemy of done ✅. My mantra in the sewing room is by Samuel Beckett, try once fail, try again fail better.
Perfection fleeting evermore less stagnate than what compromised it to settle just enough.
I don’t even remember who said this to me but someone once told me “done Is better than perfect because perfect is never done” and that has stayed with me for Ever
You attacking that parchment pattern paper with those scissors really got across just how much you detest them lol
I'm discovering this 2 years after you posted this, but I thank you very much for this video
I was watching your videos about making a basic pattern. Great idea as I often was unhappy with several clothes that I sewed. But the other day I was in a thrift shop and tried on a blazer that fit beautifully. It was an 18w, Talbot, with tags still on. In a print and fabric I would not wear. Today I went back and bought it. I am going to try using it to make a pattern.
So I can't bring myself to cut up yardage to sew back together into a quilt. But I bet I CAN make mockups out of pretty quilting cotton, then cut those up to make quilts! Thank you for the instruction and the inspirational 💜💜💜
As a woman with similar proportions to you, this video was an inspiration. I have attempted making clothing, never with a successful fit. I'm going to put the effort into developing block patterns; thank you for giving such detailed instructions and encouragement to stick to the process. Thank you so much for all your generous efforts.
I've tried to do this on my own and wasn't ~super~ successful so I'm extremely grateful for such a helpful video! Thanks for breaking this down for us newbie sewers so we have something to start slashing and spreading with you in the future! ✂️ 🪡
Yes your highlighter looks amazing
As a complete beginner *and huge fan* I have been going through this process. I really appreciated you saying that it didn't need to be perfect - I struggled with perfectionism and that was the push I needed to wrap up sooner rather than later. My sloper is close, hopefully after these changes it will be close enough
Thank you! You are nearly there!!
This is so detailed, I am learning so much from you 😍 knowing how patterns are manipulated to accommodate larger bust size, esp on an hourglass shape, is great. I can relate and that makes a lot of retail clothing difficult unless it is very blousy. Also, this knocks out the "Why darts?" question, really demonstrating their usage.
Yes "why darts" quickly becomes "need dart here, and here, and over here..." 😂 Thank you Rebecca!
@@TheClosetHistorian Yes! And this one was super helpful for me because I chronically have extra fabric just above my bust, (what you were explaining at the 20ish minute mark with that mock-up) and have given up several times on different projects because I just couldn't work out how to fix it.
Couldn't have said it better myself!
32G short waisted person here who tried to do this 6 years ago and gave up when the armscye started to look like a little cup hook. Surely not! But, yes! It’s a thing! I can do this!
It is SOOOO nice to see pattern adjustment tutorials from someone who is more along the line of my body type. Thank you! Great tutorial!
Thank you Kim!
I own this pattern, and the way you did your fba is exactly how they show you how in their directions. 😊 Thank you for sharing this and taking the time to encourage others to just do the thing! Do the work... No matter how much we want a perfect pattern handed to us, it will still require work...That only we can do with our own bodies. But, I think it's half the fun, learning what myself actually looks like and needs to achieve the goal silhouette from my clothes. 💚
Got 5 minutes into this video, paused, ordered one of these patterns, and then returned to the video. I look forward to giving this a try! Thanks for another motivating and informative video!
Thank you Deidre! I hope the pattern behaves!
I have made several fittings for myself, and I had never thought to leave the front part open. Rookie stuff. Thanks for the tutorial as always it is very detailed.
Anything that makes the process even slightly less annoying is needed 😅
This video was 51 minutes long??! Um...totally felt like only 20 or so. Truly a testament to how valuable this information is and how well presented. As Molly Brown might have said, "Dip me and fry me!" 😁
Bought this fitting shell pattern, did all the maths, didn't fit. Now I know why. Thank you for making the instructions finally make sense! You're wonderful!
Its when you start making big changes to a pattern and you think: this can't be right? My body can't be so weird?
My armscyce looks very weird, but it works...so who am I to complain 😂
I’m late to the party but thank you so much! I had given up on sewing after my last dress was ok but had demon bust darts that would not sit flat. Now I think I’ll try again thanks to your wonderful tutorial.
So I drafted my own bodice block. It wasn’t bad for the first draft. Your tutorials really helped me to see that its a process. Being a curvy and petite woman, it has been very helpful to watch you share the process of creating patterns. Thank you. I subscribed a while ago.😊
I'm glad to hear it!! I hope you enjoy the pattern drafting adventure!
Brand new sewist here! Thought I was going to focus mostly on home decor type stuff but you know....rabbit holes....
Anyway, I wanted to add that I got a pretty good sized roll of brown craft paper from Dollar Tree (purchased for a completely different project lol)!
insane how I watched you two years ago and I’ve literally just completed my bodice block. I’m so grateful to your channel for opening me up to quite literally a whole new world.
Illuminating, educational, with humour peppered throughout. Thank you.
Thank you Rochelle!
I had not thought to take some of my waist dart and transfer it to the side seam! My darts were becoming unwieldy and couldn't figure out what to do with them. Definitely going to try that with my next mock up of my block. Thank you!
I KEEP coming back to this, especially now that I’m in fashion school.
Thank you SO MUCH for this information out there ❤
Considering I apparently have nearly identical measurements to you, this was incredibly helpful!
I really like the geometry and process of this! I started playing around with trying to make my own blocks. I think I'll try again using this method instead and see how it goes! Thank you so much for taking the time and walking us through this in such detailed steps
Thanks Jessie!
How lucky you are to have that beautiful hourglass figure! With a WAIST! I am lime green with envy - I’ve NEVER had one. It does make sewing easier, just sew a straight seam on both sides. Thank you so much for a very informative video.
I’ve been adapting patterns on the hoof for years and since I’m not a perfectionist I’ve been more or less happy with the results. But I learnt so much this morning: far better than starting the day with the “nonsense” all around us ... thanks! SO helpful ! I’m off to the market for a couple of metres of deadstock sheeting to make slopers. Finally!
I enjoyed watching your video. I’m a beginner, so much of this is intimidating, but you’ve really inspired me to learn more and hopefully I’ll be able to grow into making my own block patterns because, even as a beginner, this seems to be the obvious solution to well-fitting clothes. I would love to wear well- fitting and flattering clothes.
So, for now, I watch you videos like TV, but hopefully someday I will be making my own block patterns. Thanks for sharing.
I like the way you think.
Appreciate this video and all the information you supplied in the description.
This video has been INCREDIBLY helpful! I'm just starting to improve on my sewing and in doing my first full bust adjustment I made two versions and it still didn't fit. I got so frustrated and have set it aside, but now, knowing that it took you seven versions, I am inspired to go back and keep working on it. Thank you!
Just made my first shirt and I'm so happy with it. Thank you a million. Such a clear educational and helpful video. You are amazing
Hooray! Good work! First of many projects to come I'm sure!
this is so helpful!!! also, i was thinking "her highlighter looks so good!!!" and 3 seconds later you mentioned it and i found myself laughing alone hahaha
Ha! Thank you!
You are a fabulous teacher. I like a little laugh when lm learning.
Thank you!
Thank you for showing this. I just picked up one of the butterick patterns that was pretty much a block and now I can use your video to help modify it for myself and also for my oldest child
Thank you very much for your videos. You are right - make your block pattern fit it then sew from that and learn that skill. I just hate to waste fabric but that is what those old worn sheets were kept for - sewing practice. I sewed for decades. I was 36B back then and just had to watch the lengths of sleeves etc. Bodys tend to change over the decades so ... time for a new approach. I could alter my bady --- but that is not a reasonable quick or likely fix LOL. thanks again. You are inspiring. I did stretch and sew and the worst I did was fry fabric in the dryer a few times. My best guess is that I need block patterns for woven and a different one for stretch knits. I am not sure if you can just size up or down for a knit vs woven. experimentation will tell. Thank you again. Your videos are still blessing and inspiring us.
Your sloper making method and demonstrations are very helpful. Thanks.
I have found, like you, that keeping each sample (in case you have to back track) is very helpful~ doing this has saved me lots of time whenever I’ve needed to “start over” for various reasons.
I came across this video in search of a "pattern drafting course for beginners" video. I have this same pattern that I purchased for a fitting class on Craftsy years ago to alter it to fit my body. I did a few muslins but I have many fit issues that I could't perfect such as tilted pelvis/hips, sway back, smaller than standard arm scye, and a "few extra inches" in the mid-section. My biggest fit isue with ready to wear pants is the inseam is never long enough and I;m not tall, I'm 5'5 but they always sag in the crotch. A few years and some extra weight later, I am inspired to pull this pattern back out and give it another try with this video. I haven't watched the full video yet but I intend to watch ALL of your videos. I wish you could come over and help me when I get stuck, but I will search all your other videos for an answer or post my question for you or the followers to chime in. Thank you for sharing all of your knowledge.
Really love how you show everything you do! Invaluable for a sewing noob like me. Thank you!
Knowing that this is a thing that exists is going to change my life
I recently bought this same pattern, so I’m very happy to have this video walk-through of how the whole process will work. Thank you!
Brilliant! Thanks for letting us know it’s NOT one and done.
Bravo! If you encourage even a dozen or more sewists to develop their custom blocks your effort will have moved the hobby forward. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
I am beyond appreciative for these tutorials! I think with all my modifications I always have to do, it will be self-drafted for the win!
Learning so many things! But one of the really satisfying ones was that I'm not the only introvert who would never have a 'sewing/fitting buddy'. Still think you and I are friends... from afar. Looking forward to learning more from you!
Ah, this is perfect! Thank you so much for recommending this playlist, this will definitely a lot!
I so appreciate you doing these videos. It really helps me improve my skills with even these basic building blocks around tailoring. Thank you.
I’m so making this! Who doesn’t want to be comfy and fabulous!
This was a ton of work! Thanks for doing this. And yes I am going to do it.
At this point in my life, I can design and fit for my own body with my eyes shut. But I cannot always do so for another person. I think I am going to buy one of these fitting patterns to fit to my sister, and one for my daughter-in-law.
I did watch this when you first posted it, but I'll definitely be rewatching over and over as I fit my own patterns. Thank you Bianca xo
This was awesome and so helpful! You laid this out in such an organised and simple way, you took all the scariness out of tackling something like this, thank you!
Thank you for taking the time on this video it’s so helpful and cleared up a lot of my questions!
The amount of time this must have taken you to share thia process... you are amazing! My life won't take me into schooling for this stuff for a while, and while I have pattern drafting books to reference, it simply isn't my learning style. These videos are immensely helpful to follow along or reference. Your hard work has not gone unnoticed. Thank you so much!
Thank you Ann ❤
Great video! Thank you! Between this video & your video on how to draft a bodice block from scratch, you have inspired me to not be too intimidated by it & give it a go. I do like to work with vintage sewing patterns. But, I do love how pattern drafting yourself gives options & opens doors. I think both methods are great!
That was very helpful! Thank you for showing the steps for fitting. Seeing what you were looking at and how you adjusted and then transferred the results to a new paper version was exactly the parts I was struggling to understand on my own.
Very novice sewer. Thanks for sharing all this information... never heard of a block patter until today and it makes a lot of sense!
This was so helpful! I hope to create one of these with my mother's help later this year
This is fantastic, thank you so much for walking through all of the adjustments you made so clearly!
Thanks Ali!
This is helpful and encouraging- the number of times I’ve just given up when I couldn’t get a bodice pattern to fit! I didn’t realise that the seventh time was the charm!
Yes that is the unfortunate truth 😂 The reward at the end of the battle is worth it though!!
This video is incredibly helpful. Thank you for taking the time to show and explain. Maybe one of these days I will feel courageous enough to do this for myself (though I have to clear off the table first - it's piled high with stuff needing homes).
Great work - and so generous of you to share this info on the process. As a 51 year old cis man just getting into sewing and keen to try making my own blocks, your video has made me really excited. Thank you TCH!
Thank you Joe!
Just looking at ordering a shell pattern so this was right on time! Thanks Bianca
Thank you so much. I have struggled trying to take up a pattern that just doesn't fit. This makes so much sense to me to have my own measured pattern.
Hi. from England. Thank you for doing this video. Yes, there are plenty of other videos on the subject but I like the way that you explain things.
Thank you Christine!
Thank you, thank you, thank you for the block pattern tutorials!
An older video BUT IM SO GRATEFUL FOR IT. THANK YOU!❤️
Thank you for sharing your experience, knowledge and talents. 💚
Your tutorials are always packed with so much helpful info & tips! Thanks, as always, for sharing your process !
Thank you Diana!
You probably won't see this since this video is from a year, but I'm going to comment anyway in hopes that you may. 😁 Woof, it took 2 days to follow along with you and make my own block that I made with just my measurements, but only 2 tries!!
I'm a beginner sewist and stopped sewing for a year because absolutely nothing was coming out even halfway decent on me and it was heartbreaking. Then, I found your channel and have been avidly consuming your videos and seeing all the things about the patterns that just never would have worked, no matter how hard I tried. So I decided to use my birthday weekend to follow your guidance and make a bodice block to remedy the ridiculous situation that is my pile of patterns.
I just finished today, so I haven't made anything yet, but I can't wait to make something now and hopefully it'll come out at least wearable. Next I'll be following your guide on a pencil skirt block.
Would you ever consider a video for a pant block?? If that's a thing... Or, would you ever consider making a merry widow?? I'd much rather make my own one day rather than she'll out a gross amount of money for something that likely wouldn't even fit me anyhow. I'm 5'10 with a long torso and tummy issues from losing 80lbs, so I don't fit any general shape now, lol. Which is why I greatly appreciate your guidance in finding how to make things that work for me and not some mystery model clothing companies has decided is the ideal shape. Thank you ever so much.
~Evie
Thank you Evie! I hope you stick with pattern drafting as it indeed opens all the doors! I am less experienced with trouser drafting as I am more of a skirts and dresses person myself. I may do some corset making sometime, but not any midcentury shapewear, as lingerie seems very fiddly to make to me!
@@TheClosetHistorian I definitely will. Using patterns just doesn't make sense now. I'm obsessed with the Empire waste wide leg trousers from the 50s(I think) that I saw the head librarian wear in the Magicians from Netflix, but don't know where to begin trying to make some. Learning how you go about the corset process would be amazing too. I have a pattern and a corset that fits okay, so learning how to make it fit properly would be great too. Whatever amazingness your wonderful mind comes up with is always great too. 😊 Happy New Year! 💜
I've been wanting to make my own blocks, so I'm grateful for your videos on how to do them. I think I might have to steal mom from her sewing for a weekend to give a hand with the fitting.
My classes are from so long ago and my shape have change quite a bit… thank you so much for the reminder
My God !!! This is an AWESOME video. I am headed right now to the playlist you created. Thank you so much for all the instruction. You're degree has served you (and me, Haaaa) very well indeed.
Thank you so much Bianca. I never found anyone with my same bodytype (very similar to yours) and so I couldn't figure out how to fix the problems I had. So thank you again for showing all the complete process and the explanation for the fixes you made.
:))
YOUR AMAZING!!! Thank you so much for getting back with me so quickly. I am learning so much, you're an amazing teacher and illustrator.
Thank you Diana!
I made an attempt at making a bodice block ages ago and never got past version one, but you have me feeling inspired to dive back into it! I have no idea where the pattern pieces ran off to, but I found the muslin and it's actually halfway decent. I think with the help of this video I'll actually be able to get it to where it needs to be!
This was so incredibly helpful. And perfectly timed for me to find. I have about 6 weeks off this summer before the fall semester begins and the craziness ensues. I just finished a 2-dart and princess block pattern thanks to you! I can’t wait to see what I can create before school starts back up (for my kids AND for me 😂).
Really love your delivery. Thanks so much for your clearly spoken and explained clip. I'm an industrial machinist who makes gymnastics crash mats by day, but really wants to learn to make fitted clothing.
Saved to watch again later with the idea that I might actually put this to use at some point. Great tutorial!
Thank you!
Oooooo yes! I always wanted to see one of these come out of the envelope. :)
Thankyou for taking the time to share your knowledge. I received my second hand shell pattern from ebay yesterday. Today I started following your instructions. Start stop , reverse ,fast forward. I even got hubby to connect my iPad to the tv in my sewing room to see more detail. I’m feeling confident after I’ve just cut muslin no 1. Tomorrow I’ll try it on . Fingers crossed
Well, you've inspired me to finally buy a starting block from Bootstrap and go through the mockups to fit it. I tried to draft my own a while ago and the fit was so bad I got discouraged. But I'm sure the Bootstrap system with my own measurements with be a bit closer so I can focus on fit details. Also, your makeup matches your dress/top so well! Love it :)
This is incredibly helpful! ❤ I always get that gap in the armscye and I had no idea what to do with that! And cutting the back on the fold...brilliant. I know I've probably said this a hundred times in these comments, but seeing it all of a sudden makes the books clear. I've tried fitting a few times from books but I always give up because it just doesn't look right. But I guess trusting the process is much easier after seeing it done.
It's fascinating, to watch someone else do this step by step.
I desperately need to make a new basic pattern for myself, but man...all those mockups 😆
I don't mind the drafting part, but I hate making mockups. It's the main reason, I started pattern drafting in the first place.
This was so amazingly helpful in demystifying a place to start and some of the basic techniques. Thank you for this.
Thank you Crystil!
You’ve just increased my understanding of the process ten-fold. Thank you!
Thank you Kathryn!
Thank you for imparting some of the 'Tribal Wisdom'. Every teacher can give you something new.
I am just now discovering your videos. I love your delivery and the way you talk through things. Thank you for sharing with us your talents and skills ❤
Thank you Jenna!
THANK YOU!! I just purchased a secondhand mannequin with THIS plan in mind but I didn’t know what it was called!! Never had any luck with set patterns. So excited!!
this is a godsend! i found a vintage pattern drafting book from the 60s or 70s, and tried using it, but got so confused... but i only did 2 or 3 versions. trust the process! i'm excited to give it another go now!
I very much appreciate your explanations and all the hard work, and due diligence teachings! I am following closely.
Thank you Sandra!
second video in and I think I am a similar size to you which is lovely to see, so glad I have found your videos
thank you so much for this, I just finished drafting a block from my measurement and couldn't for the life of me figure out what to do with my weird upper armpit dart. As someone with a similar curvy body shape, this is so helpful!