Well done! This video took a lot of the anxiety out of wheel truing. As long as you have patience I think it can be done. Gonna practice on an old wheel first. Thanks for posting!
It can absolutely be done John, with as you indicated, patience. Take your time and make small, incremental adjustments. Practicing on an old wheel is an excellent idea. It won't be long and you'll get a good sense and feel for which spokes and how much to adjust. Thank you for the comment and kind words!
Nice. Well done. Good tip about loosening the opposite side. Makes sense. This video helped and gave me the confidence that I did mine right. I do think that a stand does take out the hassle of easily establishing a horizontal axle plane though, for me at least. Great video.
Jim, thank your for the kind comments. I've not invested in a stand as I've never found I needed one. But if a stand gives you confidence, then that was the best move for you. I tuned my H2 (750 Kawasaki triple) wheels over ten years ago to around .005" using this method (but it took a while!). If any other questions or points, please let me know.
Hi Roy. Very impressed with that. I did wonder whether it have helped, if as you were lacing the wheel, if every nipple was screwed on by exactly the same number of turns? What do you think? I have been able to find genuine spokes for the front wheel on Ebay, and I've had a punt at some spokes I've found (again on Ebay), which I just hope will work. I did consider re-plating the existing ones, but it would have been a tiresome job to do 72, and when I looked closely, the nipples would have been a lot of work. Two more questions for you; The nicely polished hub - do you intend to leave it as it is, or will you will use some kind of lacquer or something to help stop it from tarnishing? On mine, I think I will polish the outer sides of the hubs, but spray paint the inside part (the section that is very hard to get to - between the spokes) with the correct colour silver paint. I can see you have some kind of plastic tube, fitted over the end of the dial gauge. What is it? Once again, brilliant video and many thanks from the UK. Jono
Hello Jono, Early in the video, I discussed positioning (relatively) the nipples vs the spoke so approximately the same amount of spoke was showing. That is (I think) getting to what you are describing by threading the nipples on the same number of turns. In other words, I agree with you, though described it differently in the video. I have plating shop about 150 miles from me so if I have a lot of parts to plate such as spokes and nipples, I send them off. The cost is very reasonable and takes only a two weeks or so and they come back polished, too! Saves a lot of fussing around with plating them myself, which I will do if necessary. Fasteners are one thing (especially rare ones), dozens of spokes/nipples and such, I avoid. I will not clear coat the hubs but leave them as they are. Two reasons.... these hubs were not originally clear coated and I strive for originality and the bike will be stored in a heated, dry space and not exposed to the elements or road grime. If I was to seriously use the bike, I might consider clearing them, though. The plastic tube you see on the end of the indicator is simply a piece of (new) battery vent tube to prevent the indicator tip from scratching or marring the rim chrome. Appropriate sized fuel line will work just as well. Thanks for your comment and questions! Nice hearing about other's projects...
@@kwrightway I used to have a plating shop fairly near to where I used to live, they were excellent and would only charge me £15 (about 19 US Dollars) for a whole bag of fasteners and all the parts off a restoration, but it was rather worrying, because I was always worried that they might lose something important. They never actually did, but scary non the less. A couple of years ago, I set myself up with everything to do plating myself, and have been very pleased with the results. It's very slow, but I find it very satisfying, and it makes such a difference to any bike, plus I know I won't lose anything! It's been a long time since I put a video on here, but will try and get some uploaded so you can see what I'm doing over here. Very much looking forward to your next video. Many thanks Jono
@@jonnow1234 I've been zinc plating and tumble polishing for some years now, but only odds and ends these days (unless I'm in a real hurry). Otherwise I send the project out. I can nickle plate too, but don't have much need for that for most of my projects.
Thanks for the video it's helped me rebuild my 1974 yamaha fs1e you explained it all very well thanks Alan from Leeds UK.
Well done! This video took a lot of the anxiety out of wheel truing. As long as you have patience I think it can be done. Gonna practice on an old wheel first. Thanks for posting!
It can absolutely be done John, with as you indicated, patience. Take your time and make small, incremental adjustments. Practicing on an old wheel is an excellent idea. It won't be long and you'll get a good sense and feel for which spokes and how much to adjust.
Thank you for the comment and kind words!
Nice. Well done. Good tip about loosening the opposite side. Makes sense. This video helped and gave me the confidence that I did mine right. I do think that a stand does take out the hassle of easily establishing a horizontal axle plane though, for me at least. Great video.
Jim, thank your for the kind comments. I've not invested in a stand as I've never found I needed one. But if a stand gives you confidence, then that was the best move for you.
I tuned my H2 (750 Kawasaki triple) wheels over ten years ago to around .005" using this method (but it took a while!).
If any other questions or points, please let me know.
Hi Roy. Very impressed with that. I did wonder whether it have helped, if as you were lacing the wheel, if every nipple was screwed on by exactly the same number of turns? What do you think?
I have been able to find genuine spokes for the front wheel on Ebay, and I've had a punt at some spokes I've found (again on Ebay), which I just hope will work. I did consider re-plating the existing ones, but it would have been a tiresome job to do 72, and when I looked closely, the nipples would have been a lot of work.
Two more questions for you;
The nicely polished hub - do you intend to leave it as it is, or will you will use some kind of lacquer or something to help stop it from tarnishing?
On mine, I think I will polish the outer sides of the hubs, but spray paint the inside part (the section that is very hard to get to - between the spokes) with the correct colour silver paint.
I can see you have some kind of plastic tube, fitted over the end of the dial gauge. What is it?
Once again, brilliant video and many thanks from the UK.
Jono
Hello Jono,
Early in the video, I discussed positioning (relatively) the nipples vs the spoke so approximately the same amount of spoke was showing. That is (I think) getting to what you are describing by threading the nipples on the same number of turns. In other words, I agree with you, though described it differently in the video.
I have plating shop about 150 miles from me so if I have a lot of parts to plate such as spokes and nipples, I send them off. The cost is very reasonable and takes only a two weeks or so and they come back polished, too! Saves a lot of fussing around with plating them myself, which I will do if necessary. Fasteners are one thing (especially rare ones), dozens of spokes/nipples and such, I avoid.
I will not clear coat the hubs but leave them as they are. Two reasons.... these hubs were not originally clear coated and I strive for originality and the bike will be stored in a heated, dry space and not exposed to the elements or road grime. If I was to seriously use the bike, I might consider clearing them, though.
The plastic tube you see on the end of the indicator is simply a piece of (new) battery vent tube to prevent the indicator tip from scratching or marring the rim chrome. Appropriate sized fuel line will work just as well.
Thanks for your comment and questions! Nice hearing about other's projects...
@@kwrightway I used to have a plating shop fairly near to where I used to live, they were excellent and would only charge me £15 (about 19 US Dollars) for a whole bag of fasteners and all the parts off a restoration, but it was rather worrying, because I was always worried that they might lose something important. They never actually did, but scary non the less.
A couple of years ago, I set myself up with everything to do plating myself, and have been very pleased with the results. It's very slow, but I find it very satisfying, and it makes such a difference to any bike, plus I know I won't lose anything!
It's been a long time since I put a video on here, but will try and get some uploaded so you can see what I'm doing over here.
Very much looking forward to your next video.
Many thanks
Jono
@@jonnow1234 I've been zinc plating and tumble polishing for some years now, but only odds and ends these days (unless I'm in a real hurry). Otherwise I send the project out. I can nickle plate too, but don't have much need for that for most of my projects.