*Phenomenal portaband. Worth the wait in replacing my stolen previous model **MyBest.Tools** Variable speed, with an adjustable governor, adjustable shoe, and locking articulating forward handle. It's beefy, but feels just incredibly well built and solid, will eat through strut, emt, rigid, all thread, whatever, all day.*
No matter how damaged it is, our "Mr Pete" will make it into a treasure. We are all blessed by this genius. Keep it up brother Lyle. We will patiently wait for each video when you dazzle us with your ingenuity.
Awesome tool, and besides the litany of woe about it's condition i can hear the excitement in your voice. To me there is no greater joy then to get something like that and fix and restore to better then new and do all the tweaks along the way. It's like the best Christmas ever and you get a great tool when you are done. More joy to you.
15:23 "Here's something I don't like, but there's a lot of things I don't like: have you ever noticed that?" Just shows that you're more honest than most people Mr Pete, which is why I keep watching your videos. BTW, this looks similar internally to my old 1970s Taiwanese wood bandsaw, apart from the iron wheels (I have aluminium ones).
Good morning Mr Pete and everyone else. The coffee is percolating and should taste great by the time this video is done. Your friend does have a good eye, but I'm also sure that saw will be running like a well oiled machine when you're done!
With a couple of exceptions that saw looks to be made amazing well. Not what we're used to seeing in consumer oriented equipment, much less overseas consumer equipment. Nice purchase!
Mr. Pete, instead of moving the motor pulley out 3/16th", you should loosen the motor bolts and slide the motor out 3/16th". Also, mount a handle on the motor cover, it will make it easier to lift up and off.
I was watching this video and said 'huh' when you said the blade length was 111 inches, then a little latter when you showed the Sears ad in which it showed another model, the 18 inch with 133 inch blade. That's the one that I inherited from my father. It's well used and tired. So I'm watching with interest, plus gotta look at mine at all the defects that you pointed out in yours, as you rebuild your.
Good stuff Mr. Pete! The whole gear box looks as if it is not square to the frame also. Looking forward to this series. Thanks for the interesting content
@@mrpete222 I'm sure you will show us all how to cut the appropriate rack in a bar of steel and upgrade it to closer to the original design. My Hafco has steel round stock with a milled flat for location. Pretty sure the Waldowns and Woodfasts from back in the day used a solid rectangular bar of similar shape to the aluminium extrusion.
For a home shop that saw looks perfect. Over here in Sweden all you can find used are old 400 volt beasts from the sixties. Although they are great cast machines, they are way too large and heavy for a garage shop and they often sell for $1500 and up ☹️
Somewhere along the line Sears got pretty lax on putting their Craftsman stamp on tools and equipment. But since a true craftsman now possesses this saw I bet it becomes what it should be before long. Thanks for the video and maybe you still got a good deal, Greg.
Thanks to tubalcain for giving me a place to escape the never ending political shenanigans that continually bombards the people. I'm pretty old and enjoy the lessons mixed with interest attitude injected in them. Have learned many things also. Many thanks tubalcain!
It was very educational to see all those flaws pointed out. Either that machine was badly assembled at the factory or somebody has made a bad job of using it and adjusting everything. I'm really looking forward to seeing each of those defects corrected in a future video (or several).
That's the "Profesional" model not the amateur! 😂 lol, Tubalcain. Love to listen to you critique equipment. Noticed no spite mowing or spite chainsaw on this video.
I look forward to seeing you tweak and adjust this to operate properly. The design seems to have some advantages over the Delta (see below). I especially like the jack screws on the transmission mount; I suspect these are more for adjusting the lower blade pulley for angle and offset than for adjusting the v-belt pulley. You just have to fool with the motor mount to get the v-belt running right. Delta made their 14" in a metal-cutting version, with a transmission, and a shifter to switch between metal (speeds around 100 fpm) and wood cutting (bypassing the transmission for speeds up to 3000 fpm). I've had two of these. The shifter tends to gum up and become very hard to shift (sliding shaft) if you leave it in one position for long periods of time. The frame is cast iron, but one of the ones I had was slightly twisted and it took considerable shimming and adjusting to get it to operate properly. As you say, the metal-cutting version tends to be rare and command a serious premium price in the used market.
In my shop, there are 4 bandsaws, and technically I own two more. One saw is small, I use it to cut 16 gauge copper and 20 gauge silver (real sterling, I am a silversmith). One is an 18" saw, I use it only with a 1" blade for "small scale logging". One is a 14" Sears made by Rikon, wood only. And the newest saw (to me) is a 1974 Powermatic model 143 14" bandsaw with a two speed transmission. The 18" uses pulleys and can reduce to fairly fast metal cutting speeds. The Powermatic however, cuts as slow as 40 fpm and as fast as 3000 fpm. The Powermatic transmission is in an oil bath. The Powermatic came to my "possession" when I adopted a complete knife forge. And we currently use the Powermatic only for cutting knife steels for making stock removal knives (cut and ground, not forged). Without any question, the Powermatic is simply the best saw I have ever used. Now for the kicker, the actual owner of the knife forging equipment (a gentleman in his mid 70's) paid $100 for it in 2004. And it came to me 2 months ago ready to run. It needs new tires, but Powermatic still supports the saw. So no big deal. Oh yea, about my other two saws not currently in my shop. one is an 8" saw made by Inland totally out of plastic and is designed to run a continuous edge diamond blade for cutting gem stone like turquoise and agate. One of the diamond blades costs $85 and lasts about 90 minutes (if you are lucky).
Mr. Pete, I believe WW Grainger sold the same saw around the same time. They might still have repair parts. They were better than Sears about support. If you can get it working, it will be a good buy.
Mr Pete, I think I would try straightening that bent aluminum guide shaft on a hydraulic press before milling a new one. If it doesn't work, no harm done, you can then make a new one.
I have this exact same saw, except it was sold as a Dayton. I got it new from Grainger in 2002, it's still going strong. So if you're looking for parts, try Dayton model 6Y002C, I don't know if they're still around or were anything more than a Chinese tool importer that stuck their name on it. My only complaint is that it arrived with the switch wired completely wrong so that when turned on I got a shower of sparks and it blew the breaker.
Bought almost exactly the same saw (fence was different) from Woodcraft a few years ago. It was branded as a Laguna and they still sell a newer version, so you can probably get parts from Laguna.
The blade guard on the top guide support is also a little bent-looking. I noticed that (and the off-center blade guide blocks) before noticing the bend in the support itself.
Yeah I couldnt find a up right band saw that cut metal when I was looking for one so I had to buy a big drop saw. That looks handy. It will be interesting to watch you make that adjust rack and pinion blade guide. Cant wait to see that. I would imagine it will increase the power of the saw when you get the motor plumb and the pulleys in line. All that binding will reduce the out put. And yes it will wear the belt more but it takes a while but who wants the saw running all out of wack like that anyway. I am looking forward to seeing the next post on this saws improvements and fixes. I hope its as rigid as it needs to be for you.
Sorry, I'm about 6 months behind on your videos, so you've probably already resolved this. I was thinking the slop you demonstrate at 15:57 is only there because the blade isn't there tensioning the wheel tension/tracking mechanism. I would try installing a blade and tension it and see if that slop goes away. 😉 Agree about the belt drive alignment. They have jacking screws to control the transmission attitude to get the blade drive wheel just right, but apparently nothing to correct the motor to align with the transmission. 🙄 Growing up, my dad cut his hand pretty bad on the pulley for the blower motor for the house furnace. The pulleys were offset just so, that the v belt sharpened one side of the pulley razor sharp.
I wonder if the bent guide, the bent motor bracket, and the broken handwheel all happened at the same time when the guy who borrowed it dropped it and it fell over.I also suspect that you can find an 80-20 aluminum extrusion that you can modify to make a new guide. Solid aluminum bar stock will be too heavy and make the height adjustment more difficult than necessary.
I have a Jet 14" wood cutting bandsaw I picked up for $100, it's got a heavy cast iron frame.. I've added two jack shafts with stepped pulleys I can adjust blade speed from 1000fpm down to 60 fpm..
Ah! A 20 minute teaser video! Looking forward to the bending, shimming and machining of new parts to make this thing run like an old Swiss watch! Can we convince you to balance those wheels?
I can hardly wait! Another good video. Very sad to see Sears fold up shop, our generation depended on them alot. Also several of us paid Sears 12.00 a month for ever! Keep up the great work.
Looking forward to the millwrights shop class Mr.Pete. I just can't figure out how the aluminum extrusion for the blade guide could of been bent so badly. It probably happened before the gentleman purchased it.
I think the "friend" who borrowed it really whacked it (the entire machine, but the guard in particular) pretty hard. Good luck straightening it. You might go ahead and balance those wheels too if they are cast iron. The wife will appreciate it, I'm sure. the noise and rattling will go down considerably.🤣
I'm glad that Lost Creek Machine featured this video in the latest e-catalog. I haven't watched your videos lately. I will return to the fold. This is a very good video. I avoid Chinese-made products but Taiwanese products are of better quality IMHO.
@ 1:00 in video, craftsman "code" 2000.11 to me at least from other tools, translates to year 2000 month 11th. Most of the "import" tools that came to the US from starting in the 70s all the way up to 2000s FROM TAIWAN, were of very good quality. My Craftsman Professional horizontal 7x12 metal cutting band saw with coolant pump, is from Taiwan and is very well made. Much better than the early stuff from China we have been seeing starting 10-15 years ago. Most professional wood workers agree the Taiwan stuff from 70s, 80s, 90s, was all pretty good. My Lathe 11x24 from Taiwan is from 80s and came with hardened bed heavy duty spindle and bearings it is a tank compared to my Logans and Craftsman 12x36 commercial lathe. That "floating top pulley made sense to me, thinking the movement in the support brackets is deliberate. The shot of the gearbox sure seemed out of plum to me.
Mr Pete, I am thinking of converting one of my old 14 wood bandsaws to metal. I have about a doz salvaged 3 phase motors from 1/2hp to 5 hp and could use a VFD to get variable speed. Is the frame on seventies ish Delta or JET strong enough? Or am I wasting my time?
Very good find and deal on the saw i did Woodworking professionally for over20 years and i always had decent luck with Craftsman Professionalpower tools Including the Taiwan built tools these days most of the better saws and other shop tools are now built in Taiwan Grainger tools usually is my go to for motors which i’m sure you know
I bought a well used 16" DoAll that really doesn't fit in my garage. However, it's so useful that I put up with how big it is. It helps that it is on wheels so I can move it aside if I need to. I realize I'm just bragging at this point. But, I really do love it.
Miter gauge. I have a Shopsmith Mark 5 wood working machine. The miter gauge from that machine looks identical to the one you have on this saw. Strange
Thanks Lyle. This is clearly a cheap wood saw converted. My 14" Hafco wood saw is mostly a lot better, but it cost $1200 in 1992. For a new and properly made metal cutting saw, a quick look at the Hare and Forbes site will show you a range of not so cheap saws. They look like a clone of the circa 1970 Woodfast. They include a resistance welder for welding blades like the originals. I haven't visited their Brisbane shop lately to visually inspect, so there could be the odd chintzy part. I'll let you know when I do. I'm half thinking of one, but will most likely replace my horizontal saw with a bigger convertible unit. I look forward to seeing you make a silk purse out of this sow's ear. Ask me why I hate autocorrect that turns it's useless self back on no matter how many times I turn it off.
@@mrpete222 Good. I will have a look. I was sure you would make it work. For hobby use the $3000 to $5000 machines are probably over kill. They still exist though.
Understanding possible spherical aberrations in video or some other optical illusion, the upper (larger) three-step pulley doesn't look parallel to the frame assembly as if the gear box is canted slightly away from vertical. Something to verify if you haven't already. Looking forward to the rest of the restoration. All the best, -- Joe
Looking forward to seeing you fix and use this vertical bandsaw. I've looked at getting one of these and they're not cheap. A decent one in Canada runs for at least $1000-$1500. You can get them under a thousand but they are pretty light duty.
I'd use a spray bottle with the vinegar/water and a paper towel with some seran wrap over it and let it soak all day over that heavy rust area to give it a head start over the rest of it. If you want a good running piece of equipment it's been my experience that you've got alot of work ahead of you to make that a reality. sounds like somthing you'd read in a fourtune cookie
Hard to tell from the video but it certainly looks like the upper pulley and gearbox are at an angle with the pulley tilting down (17:46). That may be the reason for the angular misalignment between the pulleys. Is the belt drive pulley also at an angle?
Looks to me like the gear reducer is pitched the wrong way to keep the blade on the wheel. The quality reflects the gist of this phrase, "built to a price not a standard", realigned and adjusted properly it should serve you well, makes me wonder how many were sold and ended up like this one because the average person wouldn't recognize the compromises made that prevent it from operating as intended.
I have and use my grandfathers 14” Delta Milwaukee wood and metal cutting vertical bandsaw in my shop. He was in business from about 1953-1973 so I suspect my machine is about 60 years old. My saw also has a gearbox for slowing the blade down for metal cutting. It is a decent machine. Congratulations on your purchase. Yours will be fine once you work out the kinks and give it a tune up. Perhaps www.searspartsdirect.com has parts but don’t hold your breath.
Are cold cut saws primarily just a beefier chop saw with a gearhead motor? I have some very powerful 90° worm drive motors and a very rigid solid cast iron turn of the century 12" (ish) chop saw. It has an arbor that will accept a very expensive cold cut saw blade....
The blade is also different. The carbide is a different grade. Also, a lot of the cold cut saws are not really geared down very much. Look at the MK Morse Metal Devil or Stilton Evosaw. (1200-1500 rpm) Most wood ones are 3x that much. So it's not like those cold saws that turn VERY slow. (The ones that turn very slow and have coolant)
I'm curious, I have rarely seen any youtube machinist using a miter gauge cutting metal. You made note that you do not. I just wonder if there is a particular reason why not?
Yeah, those "safety interlocks" for switches are just a gimmick. I bought a 4 x 6 metal cutting bandsaw from a Craigslist seller for $20 because he couldn't get the thing to turn on (it was given to him) , he was ready to put it out front for the trash guys so he sold it cheap, but when I got it home I found that tongue- like yellow plastic thing was jammed in upside down, flipped it around and she powered right up.
The head on the fence looks like it would provide good register for squareness but it doesn't because the only thing pressing against the rail is the end of the clamping screw. Any squareness comes solely from the dog that runs in the slot on the top of the table. The cross-piece on the head is just wasted weight! It would be particularly off-square if you tried placing it across, but not fully spanning, the mitre guide slot.
Mr. Pete, if it were me and knowing your skills and determination to possess a vertical cutting metal band saw, I would refit that gear box and mayber motor, to a nice solid Delta/Rockwel 14 band saw and sell that ill fitting, shoddy, sheet metal hull.
You got that exactly wrong. Did you not watch all of my videos on trying to retrofit a Rockwell? They had no rigidity at all. Matter of fact, that’s what I intend to sell as one of my deltas
@@mrpete222Really, I'll be damned? No, didn't catch that part, Time to whip out one of those tension meters you probably have stashed somewhere and do a real test between them then you can really rub it in. I have two 14's, one for metal, one for wood, ball bearing guides on both, used for over 30 years and never had an issue. I prefer the Delta over my Milwaukee metal cutting bandsaw, which breaks blades if I just look at the wroing way. Cheers.
Mr. Pete, In my 2009-2010 Sears tool catalog, I found the (similar?) 15" Professional Band Saw. It is also in the 2007-2008 catalog with a price of $999.99. It does not appear in any later Sears Tool Catalog up through 2012-2013 (the latest I have). The catalog price is $1099.99. The 18" version was priced at $2899.99. I don't know your email address or your mailing address, or I could send you a pdf scan of the catalog pages showing this bandsaw. If you want this, and can give me a contact address, I will get it to you. As you know Sears didn't make anything, just had things made for them by established manufacturers with the Sears name on them. Your model number, 315.XXXXX was manufactured by either Ryan or Ryobi, I suspect it was Ryan since Diehl was the predecessor to Ryobi, so Ryan probably followed Ryobi. This information comes from the Craftsman OEM List I found on the Vintage Machinery.org website: vintagemachinery.org/craftsman/manufacturers.aspx
You should name that saw Horace Greely. And if I had made it, I'd call that self-aligning, not play!!! I've heard that they sell for 10X what production and shipping costs. So, that was a 100 bucks to build and ship to the US. *provided I have accurate info, plenty of coffee, and a decent memory. YMMV)
I doubt if they could make it for $100 even in the Belgian Congo. There are still some fixed costs. But I have heard that their government subsidizes things
If you use evaporust on the table. Do NOT use the paper towel method. Soak the whole table in a tub of the stuff. You will end up with strange stains on the table. Guy I talked with at the company said he wishes they would take that off the label as a method.
*Phenomenal portaband. Worth the wait in replacing my stolen previous model **MyBest.Tools** Variable speed, with an adjustable governor, adjustable shoe, and locking articulating forward handle. It's beefy, but feels just incredibly well built and solid, will eat through strut, emt, rigid, all thread, whatever, all day.*
I look forward to seeing this being brought back in to service.
Great video. My favorite tool in the shop is my Rockwell metal /wood cutting bandsaw.
👍
No matter how damaged it is, our "Mr Pete" will make it into a treasure. We are all blessed by this genius. Keep it up brother Lyle. We will patiently wait for each video when you dazzle us with your ingenuity.
Thank you, I wish everyone was as kind and their comments as you. Read through them
@@mrpete222 Well they can just tinkle up a rope! Many of us dearly admire your work. Keep it up.
Awesome tool, and besides the litany of woe about it's condition i can hear the excitement in your voice. To me there is no greater joy then to get something like that and fix and restore to better then new and do all the tweaks along the way. It's like the best Christmas ever and you get a great tool when you are done. More joy to you.
You were right on, thank you
Thank you Mr.Pete. It's a pleasure to be taught by you.
Ooooh....!!! As it was just starting to get even more interesting, guess we'll keep on waiting for the next episode... 😢😎👍
15:23 "Here's something I don't like, but there's a lot of things I don't like: have you ever noticed that?" Just shows that you're more honest than most people Mr Pete, which is why I keep watching your videos. BTW, this looks similar internally to my old 1970s Taiwanese wood bandsaw, apart from the iron wheels (I have aluminium ones).
lol
I'd be very happy to have that saw. Good find. Glad it went somewhere it'll be appreciated.
Good morning Mr Pete and everyone else. The coffee is percolating and should taste great by the time this video is done. Your friend does have a good eye, but I'm also sure that saw will be running like a well oiled machine when you're done!
👍
With a couple of exceptions that saw looks to be made amazing well. Not what we're used to seeing in consumer oriented equipment, much less overseas consumer equipment.
Nice purchase!
Yes
Thank you Mr Pete for sharing with us all. I think you got a good deal and once you have the bugs worked out, it will be better than new!
Mr. Pete, instead of moving the motor pulley out 3/16th", you should loosen the motor bolts and slide the motor out 3/16th". Also, mount a handle on the motor cover, it will make it easier to lift up and off.
I put a handle on 3 wks ago
I was watching this video and said 'huh' when you said the blade length was 111 inches, then a little latter when you showed the Sears ad in which it showed another model, the 18 inch with 133 inch blade. That's the one that I inherited from my father. It's well used and tired. So I'm watching with interest, plus gotta look at mine at all the defects that you pointed out in yours, as you rebuild your.
Outstanding Mr. Pete! Just enough repair and upgrade work to make it feel like a custom tool when you are done without being to much of a pain.
Good stuff Mr. Pete! The whole gear box looks as if it is not square to the frame also. Looking forward to this series. Thanks for the interesting content
I don't have any vertical saws but I could sure use one! A few tweaks and this one should do you well.
I am sure you will find one, but euros will have a 48 inch wheel, and weighs 7 tons. LOL
@@mrpete222 Well it does need to fit in with the rest of the shop equipment. :-) Fortunately my crane makes moving such things an easy job.
I remember when they came out! Man did I want one one of those soooo bad....
Thanks for the video Mr Pete.
Hey Lyle!
05:51 Huh??? "Sawdust"???? Should not it be "chips"??? LOL!
Great videos!
Ken
Thank you for showing all the defects and problems ..I am sure every problem can be fixed..The bent aluminum could be the hardest piece to straighten
Yes
@@mrpete222 I'm sure you will show us all how to cut the appropriate rack in a bar of steel and upgrade it to closer to the original design. My Hafco has steel round stock with a milled flat for location. Pretty sure the Waldowns and Woodfasts from back in the day used a solid rectangular bar of similar shape to the aluminium extrusion.
That made my day! Loved the tour of that new toy! I can't wait to see the next video!!!
It will make a perfect home shop saw, and the chances of finding one for the price you paid... is slim to none...lol.👍😂🤣
very interesting series, even in Australia. I think this machine is exported everywhere and sold in different colours. thanks
Yes
Good find! Thanks for showing us.
Good thing a machinist bought that saw.. :-) I'm sure you'll get it up and running. Thanks, Mr. Pete! :-)
Yes lol
For a home shop that saw looks perfect. Over here in Sweden all you can find used are old 400 volt beasts from the sixties. Although they are great cast machines, they are way too large and heavy for a garage shop and they often sell for $1500 and up ☹️
If I buy two can I get free shipping?
Hi. Where would you suggest to search from. I am an estonian metalgeek and would bring one from sweden. I like old machines.
@@hendrikhanso I've seen some on online auctions like toveks.se or local auctions
I think I have one of those. Arboga gear head machine. Got it for $50, thinking I could change it to single phase by swapping the motor. Oops.
@@JorgenLarsson thanks I will try to find some
Somewhere along the line Sears got pretty lax on putting their Craftsman stamp on tools and equipment. But since a true craftsman now possesses this saw I bet it becomes what it should be before long. Thanks for the video and maybe you still got a good deal, Greg.
That is true, but it just wasn’t serious. It goes for any tools sole owner any brand name that came from the far east
That's a good find.
Looking forward to the upcoming videos.
Thanks.
Thanks to tubalcain for giving me a place to escape the never ending political shenanigans that continually bombards the people. I'm pretty old and enjoy the lessons mixed with interest attitude injected in them. Have learned many things also. Many thanks tubalcain!
Definitely worth grabbing 👍👍👍👍👍
THANK YOU...for sharing. Very much enjoyed.
It was very educational to see all those flaws pointed out. Either that machine was badly assembled at the factory or somebody has made a bad job of using it and adjusting everything. I'm really looking forward to seeing each of those defects corrected in a future video (or several).
Looks like a nice saw. I look forward to seeing the repairs.
If Mr Pete222 didn't find any faults I am sure he would be disappointed! Now he is happy to make some more videos. LOL
Thanks for the new video.....I'm a bandsaw guy I work at American Saw and Mfg (Lenox band saw blades)
Thanks
That's the "Profesional" model not the amateur! 😂 lol, Tubalcain. Love to listen to you critique equipment. Noticed no spite mowing or spite chainsaw on this video.
I look forward to seeing you tweak and adjust this to operate properly. The design seems to have some advantages over the Delta (see below). I especially like the jack screws on the transmission mount; I suspect these are more for adjusting the lower blade pulley for angle and offset than for adjusting the v-belt pulley. You just have to fool with the motor mount to get the v-belt running right.
Delta made their 14" in a metal-cutting version, with a transmission, and a shifter to switch between metal (speeds around 100 fpm) and wood cutting (bypassing the transmission for speeds up to 3000 fpm). I've had two of these. The shifter tends to gum up and become very hard to shift (sliding shaft) if you leave it in one position for long periods of time. The frame is cast iron, but one of the ones I had was slightly twisted and it took considerable shimming and adjusting to get it to operate properly. As you say, the metal-cutting version tends to be rare and command a serious premium price in the used market.
Great find. Just what the Dr. ordered.
He is right about how you almost never see a metal saw for sale.
Damn I'm getting old. I already watched this and commented and totally forgot until I saw my own comment.
Indeed enjoyed the presentation. Looking forward to see it running true.
Any metal cutting band saw is better than no metal cutting band saw. I am sure you will improve on the design.
Yes
In my shop, there are 4 bandsaws, and technically I own two more. One saw is small, I use it to cut 16 gauge copper and 20 gauge silver (real sterling, I am a silversmith). One is an 18" saw, I use it only with a 1" blade for "small scale logging". One is a 14" Sears made by Rikon, wood only. And the newest saw (to me) is a 1974 Powermatic model 143 14" bandsaw with a two speed transmission. The 18" uses pulleys and can reduce to fairly fast metal cutting speeds. The Powermatic however, cuts as slow as 40 fpm and as fast as 3000 fpm. The Powermatic transmission is in an oil bath. The Powermatic came to my "possession" when I adopted a complete knife forge. And we currently use the Powermatic only for cutting knife steels for making stock removal knives (cut and ground, not forged). Without any question, the Powermatic is simply the best saw I have ever used. Now for the kicker, the actual owner of the knife forging equipment (a gentleman in his mid 70's) paid $100 for it in 2004. And it came to me 2 months ago ready to run. It needs new tires, but Powermatic still supports the saw. So no big deal. Oh yea, about my other two saws not currently in my shop. one is an 8" saw made by Inland totally out of plastic and is designed to run a continuous edge diamond blade for cutting gem stone like turquoise and agate. One of the diamond blades costs $85 and lasts about 90 minutes (if you are lucky).
Thanks
Looking forward to seeing the repairs
Mr. Pete,
I believe WW Grainger sold the same saw around the same time. They might still have repair parts. They were better than Sears about support. If you can get it working, it will be a good buy.
They sold a very similar version by Palmgren. They had a multi speed gear box and adjustable pulley set so it could do wood or metal speeds.
Mr Pete,
I think I would try straightening that bent aluminum guide shaft on a hydraulic press before milling a new one. If it doesn't work, no harm done, you can then make a new one.
I have this exact same saw, except it was sold as a Dayton. I got it new from Grainger in 2002, it's still going strong. So if you're looking for parts, try Dayton model 6Y002C, I don't know if they're still around or were anything more than a Chinese tool importer that stuck their name on it. My only complaint is that it arrived with the switch wired completely wrong so that when turned on I got a shower of sparks and it blew the breaker.
Thank you, I will check that out. Dayton stuck there name on a lot of inferior tools. Sometimes they can’t get the basics right like wiring a switch
Bought almost exactly the same saw (fence was different) from Woodcraft a few years ago. It was branded as a Laguna and they still sell a newer version, so you can probably get parts from Laguna.
And look at the "newest" iterations and many of the parts are the same, just under a different P/N.
The blade guard on the top guide support is also a little bent-looking. I noticed that (and the off-center blade guide blocks) before noticing the bend in the support itself.
My mistake, it just has an angled edge that makes it look bent...
Yeah I couldnt find a up right band saw that cut metal when I was looking for one so I had to buy a big drop saw. That looks handy. It will be interesting to watch you make that adjust rack and pinion blade guide. Cant wait to see that. I would imagine it will increase the power of the saw when you get the motor plumb and the pulleys in line. All that binding will reduce the out put. And yes it will wear the belt more but it takes a while but who wants the saw running all out of wack like that anyway. I am looking forward to seeing the next post on this saws improvements and fixes. I hope its as rigid as it needs to be for you.
Sorry, I'm about 6 months behind on your videos, so you've probably already resolved this. I was thinking the slop you demonstrate at 15:57 is only there because the blade isn't there tensioning the wheel tension/tracking mechanism. I would try installing a blade and tension it and see if that slop goes away. 😉
Agree about the belt drive alignment. They have jacking screws to control the transmission attitude to get the blade drive wheel just right, but apparently nothing to correct the motor to align with the transmission. 🙄
Growing up, my dad cut his hand pretty bad on the pulley for the blower motor for the house furnace. The pulleys were offset just so, that the v belt sharpened one side of the pulley razor sharp.
I wonder if the bent guide, the bent motor bracket, and the broken handwheel all happened at the same time when the guy who borrowed it dropped it and it fell over.I also suspect that you can find an 80-20 aluminum extrusion that you can modify to make a new guide. Solid aluminum bar stock will be too heavy and make the height adjustment more difficult than necessary.
Nice buy...looks like all its defects are relatively minor and easy to repair...👍🏻
Yes
I have a Jet 14" wood cutting bandsaw I picked up for $100, it's got a heavy cast iron frame.. I've added two jack shafts with stepped pulleys I can adjust blade speed from 1000fpm down to 60 fpm..
I can't wait for the video of you milling that part out of bar stock to repair that bent pice.
Ah! A 20 minute teaser video! Looking forward to the bending, shimming and machining of new parts to make this thing run like an old Swiss watch! Can we convince you to balance those wheels?
No need to balance them at slow speed
good morning mr pete thanks for the video and have a great day
I can hardly wait! Another good video. Very sad to see Sears fold up shop, our generation depended on them alot. Also several of us paid Sears 12.00 a month for ever! Keep up the great work.
Yes, they loved to sell things on the time payment plan
Nice score. I see the unrestored band saw going to Arnfest. Very nice analysis video.
Do you mean the green one, already sold on Craigs list. And the money given back to the original donor
@@mrpete222 that's the one
Looking forward to the millwrights shop class Mr.Pete. I just can't figure out how the aluminum extrusion for the blade guide could of been bent so badly. It probably happened before the gentleman purchased it.
I bet the entire box fell down in a semi truck. Do you know how they treat the freight. And it was hidden damage except for the broken off handle
@@mrpete222 Some of those guys are real careful
It's funny hearing a machinist NOT recognizing a jacking bolt!
I think you mean grub screws.
I think the "friend" who borrowed it really whacked it (the entire machine, but the guard in particular) pretty hard. Good luck straightening it. You might go ahead and balance those wheels too if they are cast iron. The wife will appreciate it, I'm sure. the noise and rattling will go down considerably.🤣
I'm glad that Lost Creek Machine featured this video in the latest e-catalog. I haven't watched your videos lately. I will return to the fold. This is a very good video. I avoid Chinese-made products but Taiwanese products are of better quality IMHO.
Thanks
8020 has an extruded alum piece to replace the blade guide.
But with some machining it will be a good replacement for the bent piece.
@ 1:00 in video, craftsman "code" 2000.11 to me at least from other tools, translates to year 2000 month 11th.
Most of the "import" tools that came to the US from starting in the 70s all the way up to 2000s FROM TAIWAN, were of very good quality. My Craftsman Professional horizontal 7x12 metal cutting band saw with coolant pump, is from Taiwan and is very well made. Much better than the early stuff from China we have been seeing starting 10-15 years ago. Most professional wood workers agree the Taiwan stuff from 70s, 80s, 90s, was all pretty good. My Lathe 11x24 from Taiwan is from 80s and came with hardened bed heavy duty spindle and bearings it is a tank compared to my Logans and Craftsman 12x36 commercial lathe. That "floating top pulley made sense to me, thinking the movement in the support brackets is deliberate. The shot of the gearbox sure seemed out of plum to me.
You love your slow speed drill presses and bandsaws 🤭😂
Yes, I am a metal worker
Mr Pete, I am thinking of converting one of my old 14 wood bandsaws to metal. I have about a doz salvaged 3 phase motors from 1/2hp to 5 hp
and could use a VFD to get variable speed. Is the frame on seventies ish Delta or JET strong enough? Or am I wasting my time?
Very good find and deal on the saw i did Woodworking professionally for over20 years and i always had decent luck with Craftsman Professionalpower tools Including the Taiwan built tools these days most of the better saws and other shop tools are now built in Taiwan Grainger tools usually is my go to for motors which i’m sure you know
I bought a well used 16" DoAll that really doesn't fit in my garage. However, it's so useful that I put up with how big it is. It helps that it is on wheels so I can move it aside if I need to. I realize I'm just bragging at this point. But, I really do love it.
That is the model that I had at the high school
Miter gauge. I have a Shopsmith Mark 5 wood working machine. The miter gauge from that machine looks identical to the one you have on this saw. Strange
Thanks Lyle.
This is clearly a cheap wood saw converted. My 14" Hafco wood saw is mostly a lot better, but it cost $1200 in 1992. For a new and properly made metal cutting saw, a quick look at the Hare and Forbes site will show you a range of not so cheap saws. They look like a clone of the circa 1970 Woodfast. They include a resistance welder for welding blades like the originals. I haven't visited their Brisbane shop lately to visually inspect, so there could be the odd chintzy part. I'll let you know when I do. I'm half thinking of one, but will most likely replace my horizontal saw with a bigger convertible unit.
I look forward to seeing you make a silk purse out of this sow's ear.
Ask me why I hate autocorrect that turns it's useless self back on no matter how many times I turn it off.
Part three clearly shows that it is a pretty darn good saw after all
@@mrpete222 Good. I will have a look. I was sure you would make it work. For hobby use the $3000 to $5000 machines are probably over kill. They still exist though.
Understanding possible spherical aberrations in video or some other optical illusion, the upper (larger) three-step pulley doesn't look parallel to the frame assembly as if the gear box is canted slightly away from vertical. Something to verify if you haven't already. Looking forward to the rest of the restoration.
All the best,
-- Joe
Looking forward to seeing you fix and use this vertical bandsaw. I've looked at getting one of these and they're not cheap. A decent one in Canada runs for at least $1000-$1500. You can get them under a thousand but they are pretty light duty.
Yes, they are never cheap
Nice video Mr. Pete... looking forward to the repairs... will be useful to us... BTW, your audio cut short a few times on this video.
Opps
I can see those miss alignments from my house.
lol
I can see the mister alignments
Mr Pete says he won't even bother? I'm not buying that, sir you can not help yourself you will most definitely fix everything you see. LOL
I'd use a spray bottle with the vinegar/water and a paper towel with some seran wrap over it and let it soak all day over that heavy rust area to give it a head start over the rest of it. If you want a good running piece of equipment it's been my experience that you've got alot of work ahead of you to make that a reality. sounds like somthing you'd read in a fourtune cookie
What a deal but lots of work ahead to get it going at 100% look forward to the refurbishment
the pulley may be positioned just correctly on the shaft, it'll come outwards when you adjust the tilted motor back straight
Early to bed, early to wise.
Always love your videos. China and Taiwan are different countries.
Not if you were to ask China.
Mrpete222 what do u do to keep ur blade from gumming up when cutting aluminum
Hard to tell from the video but it certainly looks like the upper pulley and gearbox are at an angle with the pulley tilting down (17:46). That may be the reason for the angular misalignment between the pulleys. Is the belt drive pulley also at an angle?
Nothing is in alignment, put together by 12-year-old children across the pond
Good catch on the saw you don't have as many problems as Steve Summers
lol
For removing the rust from that cast iron table, try soaking a cloth in Evaporust, and laying it on the table for a day or so.
Looks to me like the gear reducer is pitched the wrong way to keep the blade on the wheel.
The quality reflects the gist of this phrase, "built to a price not a standard", realigned and adjusted properly it should serve you well, makes me wonder how many were sold and ended up like this one because the average person wouldn't recognize the compromises made that prevent it from operating as intended.
Yes!!!!!!
I have and use my grandfathers 14” Delta Milwaukee wood and metal cutting vertical bandsaw in my shop. He was in business from about 1953-1973 so I suspect my machine is about 60 years old. My saw also has a gearbox for slowing the blade down for metal cutting. It is a decent machine. Congratulations on your purchase. Yours will be fine once you work out the kinks and give it a tune up. Perhaps www.searspartsdirect.com has parts but don’t hold your breath.
Are cold cut saws primarily just a beefier chop saw with a gearhead motor?
I have some very powerful 90° worm drive motors and a very rigid solid cast iron turn of the century 12" (ish) chop saw.
It has an arbor that will accept a very expensive cold cut saw blade....
project coming up!!!! go for it!
The blade is also different. The carbide is a different grade. Also, a lot of the cold cut saws are not really geared down very much. Look at the MK Morse Metal Devil or Stilton Evosaw. (1200-1500 rpm) Most wood ones are 3x that much. So it's not like those cold saws that turn VERY slow. (The ones that turn very slow and have coolant)
This gonna be fun.
Yes
How about the metal cutting bandsaws made by Dake
Pete check sears # 113.238960 speed reducer 135 FPM I found one for 50 bux new in the box.
I'm curious, I have rarely seen any youtube machinist using a miter gauge cutting metal. You made note that you do not. I just wonder if there is a particular reason why not?
Yeah, those "safety interlocks" for switches are just a gimmick. I bought a 4 x 6 metal cutting bandsaw from a Craigslist seller for $20 because he couldn't get the thing to turn on (it was given to him) , he was ready to put it out front for the trash guys so he sold it cheap, but when I got it home I found that tongue- like yellow plastic thing was jammed in upside down, flipped it around and she powered right up.
Yes, those cheap switches were installed to appease The safety Nazis.
Score! 👍
The head on the fence looks like it would provide good register for squareness but it doesn't because the only thing pressing against the rail is the end of the clamping screw. Any squareness comes solely from the dog that runs in the slot on the top of the table. The cross-piece on the head is just wasted weight! It would be particularly off-square if you tried placing it across, but not fully spanning, the mitre guide slot.
Ought to be nice once you get it tuned up!
Mr. Pete, if it were me and knowing your skills and determination to possess a vertical cutting metal band saw, I would refit that gear box and mayber motor, to a nice solid Delta/Rockwel 14 band saw and sell that ill fitting, shoddy, sheet metal hull.
You got that exactly wrong. Did you not watch all of my videos on trying to retrofit a Rockwell? They had no rigidity at all. Matter of fact, that’s what I intend to sell as one of my deltas
@@mrpete222Really, I'll be damned? No, didn't catch that part, Time to whip out one of those tension meters you probably have stashed somewhere and do a real test between them then you can really rub it in. I have two 14's, one for metal, one for wood, ball bearing guides on both, used for over 30 years and never had an issue. I prefer the Delta over my Milwaukee metal cutting bandsaw, which breaks blades if I just look at the wroing way. Cheers.
Mr. Pete, In my 2009-2010 Sears tool catalog, I found the (similar?) 15" Professional Band Saw. It is also in the 2007-2008 catalog with a price of $999.99. It does not appear in any later Sears Tool Catalog up through 2012-2013 (the latest I have). The catalog price is $1099.99. The 18" version was priced at $2899.99. I don't know your email address or your mailing address, or I could send you a pdf scan of the catalog pages showing this bandsaw. If you want this, and can give me a contact address, I will get it to you.
As you know Sears didn't make anything, just had things made for them by established manufacturers with the Sears name on them. Your model number, 315.XXXXX was manufactured by either Ryan or Ryobi, I suspect it was Ryan since Diehl was the predecessor to Ryobi, so Ryan probably followed Ryobi. This information comes from the Craftsman OEM List I found on the Vintage Machinery.org website: vintagemachinery.org/craftsman/manufacturers.aspx
Thanks--find my email address in this video.
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You should name that saw Horace Greely. And if I had made it, I'd call that self-aligning, not play!!!
I've heard that they sell for 10X what production and shipping costs. So, that was a 100 bucks to build and ship to the US. *provided I have accurate info, plenty of coffee, and a decent memory. YMMV)
I doubt if they could make it for $100 even in the Belgian Congo. There are still some fixed costs. But I have heard that their government subsidizes things
If you use evaporust on the table. Do NOT use the paper towel method. Soak the whole table in a tub of the stuff. You will end up with strange stains on the table. Guy I talked with at the company said he wishes they would take that off the label as a method.
I did soak the whole thing. You will see it in the next video