Ordered this same tool from HD and broke one blade, then finally the tool. Obviously cheaper made than it used to be. Left enough of a groove to carefully take a dremel + cable extension (for dexterity) to it and finally got it off. Couldn't have done it without this vid.
Im getting a Saiga 5.45x39 and was wondering how to do this.....much easier than removing the fsb all together to put a new and threaded one on. Also, how do you know how far down from the tip of the shroud to make the cut? Or are you just eyeballing it base on the new comp your getting. Thanks.
gaddywack Thanks for watching. If you go back to 0:34 into the film, I show that you need to just clear the pipe cutter from the front sight post. You will use a 14mm CRUSH WASHER (2:42 into film) to give you some play room.
This is definitely a "slow and steady" process. You will be tightening the pipe cutter tool ever so slightly. A little goes a long way. The shroud will most definitely make a pop / crack sound as demonstrated in the video. That is your cue that it is free and you can slide the shroud off.
At 0:33 seconds I talk about the pipe cutter needing to clear the front sight post. I used that as my measurement... Can't take it off due to loctite so I can't measure it now... Just use that as your guide and you'll be good to go.
+powderrida Thanks for watching! It's just a generic three prong flash hinder / muzzle brake that I picked up at a gun show for like $8. The flash makes a "Y shape so that you can keep look down your sights and not get blinded or having the flash block your target.
Question, so i used these tools and did this to my saiga but it looks slightly canted upwards wen i put my brake on. How to test to see if its straight?
+andrademeza Good question, I'm not sure how to answer that... Did you use the DIE STARTER to ensure the barrel threading would be aligned properly? The die starter keeps everything aligned because it sits in the barrel.
+Justayfocused - If you look back at around 1:15 in the video and pause it then you will see that the barrel guide isn't threaded very far. It's only two or three turns in. You want as much of the threads exposed as possible while keeping the barrel guide sturdy. Otherwise, if you screw the barrel guide down too much then you will only be able to thread one or two rows before hitting the guide itself and then no more threading will occur. After you have a decent amount of threading so the die can stay on itself then that is when you can remove the guide... Hope this helps.
The "die starter" at around 1:20 is what ensures your threads are level and equal all the way around... This keeps it concentric. The 14-1 Left handed thread is what I used this kit: www.cncwarrior.com/AK-47-14x1LH-Barrel-Threading-Kit-p/25145.htm
Thanks for the video. Did you need to use any thread locker to prevent the muzzle device from backing out? I ask because most AK variants come with a detent and spring on the FSB to help secure the muzzle device.
+cory roy Thanks for watchin. The Crush Washer that I reference at the end of the video does the trick for keeping muzzle brake tight in place. It's also great for when you have a break which needs to be aligned a certain way. The crush washer allows you to put it right where it needs to be.
+The Last Garrison Ok thanks. Been holding off on doing this for like a year because I was afraid the crush washer alone wouldn't hold. Well I'm going to go ahead and give it try. I was lucky enough to get a saiga with a pre threaded barrel so I just need to cut the shroud.
cory roy Best of luck. It really wasn't bad at all. The biggest issue I had was being too timid when tightening the pipe cutter, a little goes a long way, take your time! Also, don't forget about the counter clockwise threading of the barrel. The die starter needs to be almost fully threaded (the threaded part should stick out at the top). This allows for the threads to actually work on the barrel while keeping things aligned. If you don't wind the die starter far enough then you will have nowhere to go and the threading won't go down far enough. I took it off after it got as far as it could. Good luck.
It would appear too fat if you don't remove the shroud first. It's this outer layer of the barrel. At 1:05 in the movie you'll see it come off making the barrel considerably smaller in circumference. 14-1 LH die worked perfectly but it may depend on what muzzle brake you use as well... Keep that in mind.
civic2323 Thanks for watching. If you go back to 0:34 into the film, I show that you need to just clear the pipe cutter from the front sight post. You will use a 14mm CRUSH WASHER (2:42 into film) to give you some play room.
CHARLES LAIN: I am using a Husky 1-1/8 inch pipe cutter from Home Depot: www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Quick-Release-1-1-8-in-Tube-Cutter-80-772-111/204258904
+Justayfocused - If you look back at around 1:15 in the video and pause it then you will see that the barrel guide isn't threaded very far. It's only two or three turns in. You want as much of the threads exposed as possible while keeping the barrel guide sturdy. Otherwise, if you screw the barrel guide down too much then you will only be able to thread one or two rows before hitting the guide itself and then no more threading will occur. After you have a decent amount of threading so the die can stay on itself then that is when you can remove the guide... Hope this helps.
This has got to be the best, most efficient video on this subject I've seen yet. Well done!
Glad it helped! Take care.
Ordered this same tool from HD and broke one blade, then finally the tool. Obviously cheaper made than it used to be. Left enough of a groove to carefully take a dremel + cable extension (for dexterity) to it and finally got it off. Couldn't have done it without this vid.
Wished I'd seen this video years ago. Saves a guy a lot of money not having to buy the milling tool, sleeve, guide, etc. Awesome.
Great video! You make it look easy. One question i have for you is where did you get all of your threading tools from?
nitewindhi Thanks for the feedback. I got the tools from CNC Warrior here: www.cncwarrior.com/
does the Coors Light help with the process, or can Miller Lite be substituted?
I was thinking the same thing. But with bud light. Lol
It helps a lot.
Im getting a Saiga 5.45x39 and was wondering how to do this.....much easier than removing the fsb all together to put a new and threaded one on. Also, how do you know how far down from the tip of the shroud to make the cut? Or are you just eyeballing it base on the new comp your getting. Thanks.
gaddywack Thanks for watching. If you go back to 0:34 into the film, I show that you need to just clear the pipe cutter from the front sight post. You will use a 14mm CRUSH WASHER (2:42 into film) to give you some play room.
How deep do you have to cut? I'm nervous About ruining my barrel.
This is definitely a "slow and steady" process. You will be tightening the pipe cutter tool ever so slightly. A little goes a long way. The shroud will most definitely make a pop / crack sound as demonstrated in the video. That is your cue that it is free and you can slide the shroud off.
can you please tell me the measurement from the tip of the barrel to where you stopped threading it. thank you.
At 0:33 seconds I talk about the pipe cutter needing to clear the front
sight post. I used that as my measurement... Can't take it off due to
loctite so I can't measure it now... Just use that as your guide and
you'll be good to go.
Great video, well done!
What muzzle device did you end up using?
Thanks for the video, it helped tremendously.
+powderrida Thanks for watching! It's just a generic three prong flash hinder / muzzle brake that I picked up at a gun show for like $8. The flash makes a "Y shape so that you can keep look down your sights and not get blinded or having the flash block your target.
Question, so i used these tools and did this to my saiga but it looks slightly canted upwards wen i put my brake on. How to test to see if its straight?
+andrademeza Good question, I'm not sure how to answer that... Did you use the DIE STARTER to ensure the barrel threading would be aligned properly? The die starter keeps everything aligned because it sits in the barrel.
What kind of threading Kit are you using The one from Carolina shooter supply or cnc Warrior?
Yes. CNC Warrior:
www.cncwarrior.com/AK-47-14x1LH-Barrel-Threading-Kit-p/25145.htm
hey how far does the barrel guide need to be screwed in
+Justayfocused - If you look back at around 1:15
in the video and pause it then you will see that the barrel guide isn't
threaded very far. It's only two or three turns in. You want as much of
the threads exposed as possible while keeping the barrel guide sturdy.
Otherwise, if you screw the barrel guide down too much then you will
only be able to thread one or two rows before hitting the guide itself
and then no more threading will occur. After you have a decent amount of
threading so the die can stay on itself then that is when you can
remove the guide... Hope this helps.
will threads be concentric to the bore ? was it 14-1LH or 1/2x28 ?
The "die starter" at around 1:20 is what ensures your threads are level and equal all the way around... This keeps it concentric. The 14-1 Left handed thread is what I used this kit: www.cncwarrior.com/AK-47-14x1LH-Barrel-Threading-Kit-p/25145.htm
Vey cool
Thanks for the video. Did you need to use any thread locker to prevent the muzzle device from backing out? I ask because most AK variants come with a detent and spring on the FSB to help secure the muzzle device.
+cory roy Thanks for watchin. The Crush Washer that I reference at the end of the video does the trick for keeping muzzle brake tight in place. It's also great for when you have a break which needs to be aligned a certain way. The crush washer allows you to put it right where it needs to be.
+The Last Garrison Ok thanks. Been holding off on doing this for like a year because I was afraid the crush washer alone wouldn't hold. Well I'm going to go ahead and give it try. I was lucky enough to get a saiga with a pre threaded barrel so I just need to cut the shroud.
cory roy
Best of luck. It really wasn't bad at all. The biggest issue I had was being too timid when tightening the pipe cutter, a little goes a long way, take your time!
Also, don't forget about the counter clockwise threading of the barrel.
The die starter needs to be almost fully threaded (the threaded part should stick out at the top). This allows for the threads to actually work on the barrel while keeping things aligned. If you don't wind the die starter far enough then you will have nowhere to go and the threading won't go down far enough. I took it off after it got as far as it could. Good luck.
It looks to me as if the Saiga barrel is a bit too fat for the 14-1 die? Maybe.010-.020"??
It would appear too fat if you don't remove the shroud first. It's this outer layer of the barrel. At 1:05 in the movie you'll see it come off making the barrel considerably smaller in circumference. 14-1 LH die worked perfectly but it may depend on what muzzle brake you use as well... Keep that in mind.
Dude good vid !!!
thanks I already threaded it I put a lantac dragon on it your vid was a great help tho
+Justayfocused Awesome. Glad it helped.
The music gets to me it's like watching a newborn
Justayfocused I treat the gun like it's my baby so I guess it fits ;)
Justayfocused i just tweaked it. TH-cam has slim pickings...
I thought it was befitting lol I just picked up a saiga so I gotta use this video as a reference for my barrel threading
Justayfocused Haha. No worries. I thought the same thing, didn't know you could change it afterwards. Take care.
How far down the shroud did you measure to cut it
civic2323 Thanks for watching. If you go back to 0:34 into the film, I show that you need to just clear the pipe cutter from the front sight post. You will use a 14mm CRUSH WASHER (2:42 into film) to give you some play room.
CHARLES LAIN: I am using a Husky 1-1/8 inch pipe cutter from Home Depot: www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Quick-Release-1-1-8-in-Tube-Cutter-80-772-111/204258904
This music SUCKS
Watched it on mute 🤣
I see it take "Silver Bullets"..
+jmc235 They'll never slow you down brother.
hey how far does the barrel guide need to be screwed in
+Justayfocused - If you look back at around 1:15 in the video and pause it then you will see that the barrel guide isn't threaded very far. It's only two or three turns in. You want as much of the threads exposed as possible while keeping the barrel guide sturdy. Otherwise, if you screw the barrel guide down too much then you will only be able to thread one or two rows before hitting the guide itself and then no more threading will occur. After you have a decent amount of threading so the die can stay on itself then that is when you can remove the guide... Hope this helps.