Installing a piston without the rings and without the ring compressor should be the brilliant new way that every mechanic should follow, also you didn't mention how useless connecting rods are. Probably a video on this would help to eliminate the use of connecting rods, getting in the way of pistons by keeping them from moving freely within the cylinder would be informative. It's like an ingrown toenail inside your engine. Thanks for the content. Keep up the good work. בס'ד
I prefer my trusty old ring compressors. They are a ring band type, one set uses a wing-nut to tighten, the other has a slotted screw so needs a flat -bladed screwdriver. They are only 1" deep, and allow the piston to be inserted from below, and then remove the ring compressor from around the con-rod. Much easier to use. Yes, I also have one like the first type shown in this video, but it's no use on the motorcycle engines I build.
Great vid as always but I suggest something different - let’s switch the topic from the engine to the transmissions. Yes, b8/b8.5 ATs are as reliable as they come but MTs need to have their clutches replaced from time to time, and the S4s sometimes just need their entire transmissions replaced. Would be good to see a video showing how to get some of those puckers down and safely get from under the car at home (and with no lift)
The compressor you piss on worked very well for me though. No complains about it so far. Just lubricate it, make it as tight around the piston as you can and the put it on the cilinder, then just use the handle of the hammer gently slide the piston in the cilinder while pushing the compressor on the cilinder too. It works every time.
Definitely see the tack welds. Bad QA in the manufacturing Department . Just a little sanding . But the company cut costs. It wears and creates notches in your piston rings. Thanks great video Essentially adding wear to brand new rings. Absolutely unnecessary.
Just saved me so much hassle, mine came and the clamps were squeezed shut, no way of being able to place it safely around the piston, also never thought of this. Going to use that first method asap
I can't keep the rings in 0-120-240 position when I use the ratcheting sleeves, or at least I can't tell they are still in position after ratcheting. Also the locking teeth could be not fine enough that u can't lock it in the tightest grip to compress the rings. End result could be ring damage when u do the final tapping. So, I am trying out the plier version but now I see the bands have thick sheet metal. That would let the rings release from being compressed when u do the tapping. I think the edge of the bands should be sharpened or tapered to get into the cylinder for a better sliding down of the rings.
Hey tuner I recently got a b8 2012 Audi A4 premium. the pistons rings were replace on the engine back in 2017 at 100k miles. The water pump replaced in 2020 at 143k miles all done by Audi I’m currently sitting at 156k miles got the car at 150k miles. I only have a upper timing chain leak but I believe it’s just the cover cause of what you said in one your videos about leaks (thanks btw) just wanna know what’s the life expectancy you will give my car? she’s not popping any major codes.
Wiseco has a 82.5mm solid tapered ring compressor that works like a charm. The pistons slide ring into the bore
They've got more sizes than that and so does ARP.
@18avshalom yes but that's the size for this engine with a standard bore
Installing a piston without the rings and without the ring compressor should be the brilliant new way that every mechanic should follow, also you didn't mention how useless connecting rods are. Probably a video on this would help to eliminate the use of connecting rods, getting in the way of pistons by keeping them from moving freely within the cylinder would be informative. It's like an ingrown toenail inside your engine.
Thanks for the content.
Keep up the good work.
בס'ד
I'm going to use it as a hose clamp remover. Thanks 4 the heads up man.
That Scotty Kilmer clickbait Nice! much love Naptown.
I prefer my trusty old ring compressors. They are a ring band type, one set uses a wing-nut to tighten, the other has a slotted screw so needs a flat -bladed screwdriver. They are only 1" deep, and allow the piston to be inserted from below, and then remove the ring compressor from around the con-rod. Much easier to use. Yes, I also have one like the first type shown in this video, but it's no use on the motorcycle engines I build.
LOL good video my friend. I just ordered them from Amazon and just saw this a cancelled my order.
All the piston ring compressor wrenches I've used are the same way they work just fine .Really you don't need one at all !
Thanks, just in time, I was going to buy a set, thanks for highlighting the spot weld flaw that's bad, I will stick to my old trusty ring compressor
Great vid as always but I suggest something different - let’s switch the topic from the engine to the transmissions. Yes, b8/b8.5 ATs are as reliable as they come but MTs need to have their clutches replaced from time to time, and the S4s sometimes just need their entire transmissions replaced. Would be good to see a video showing how to get some of those puckers down and safely get from under the car at home (and with no lift)
i suggest bird watching
The compressor you piss on worked very well for me though. No complains about it so far. Just lubricate it, make it as tight around the piston as you can and the put it on the cilinder, then just use the handle of the hammer gently slide the piston in the cilinder while pushing the compressor on the cilinder too. It works every time.
Definitely see the tack welds.
Bad QA in the manufacturing Department .
Just a little sanding .
But the company cut costs.
It wears and creates notches in your piston rings.
Thanks great video
Essentially adding wear to brand new rings.
Absolutely unnecessary.
Just saved me so much hassle, mine came and the clamps were squeezed shut, no way of being able to place it safely around the piston, also never thought of this. Going to use that first method asap
I almost bought the same set. Thanks for making this video.
Haha. You were wild back in the day.
You have a beefier more badass piston ring tool you were using in your previous video. I was hoping you were going to show it :(
I can't keep the rings in 0-120-240 position when I use the ratcheting sleeves, or at least I can't tell they are still in position after ratcheting. Also the locking teeth could be not fine enough that u can't lock it in the tightest grip to compress the rings. End result could be ring damage when u do the final tapping. So, I am trying out the plier version but now I see the bands have thick sheet metal. That would let the rings release from being compressed when u do the tapping. I think the edge of the bands should be sharpened or tapered to get into the cylinder for a better sliding down of the rings.
Bro, have you heard of the brand? NICEKE In pistons do you think they are good?
Charismatic Viking Man
The blow-by-increaser-tool. Perfect when you dont have enough blowby. 🤣
Sound advice! Made in USA for the win... again. =(
Hey tuner I recently got a b8 2012 Audi A4 premium. the pistons rings were replace on the engine back in 2017 at 100k miles. The water pump replaced in 2020 at 143k miles all done by Audi I’m currently sitting at 156k miles got the car at 150k miles. I only have a upper timing chain leak but I believe it’s just the cover cause of what you said in one your videos about leaks (thanks btw) just wanna know what’s the life expectancy you will give my car? she’s not popping any major codes.
I want this tool too.
Thanks for the info
This well used of piston rings and sleeves wore out made me think of my ex wife...lol...
They’re all junk. I just use a screwdriver.
FYI - It’s pronounced LANK-ister. Accent on the LANK.
Thanks
Where are you located bro?
I need it.
yup that tool is crap