Great video, your info is spot on and is very much what I did to load both 50 and 54 20/25 years ago. Both rifles were TCs with 1/48 twist shallow land bores. I used bore butter or natural patch lube. Seemed like the patch lube kept fouling softer. I also used plastic wrap to keep mess to a minimum. Very soft lead over 90/100 grains in either bore gave very good accy beyond 100 yards. Good job hope you make more videos!
Good informative info on your review of the Lee R.E.A.L. bullet, thanks. I've been casting and shooting the Lee R.E.A.L. bullets for a while now with real good results on paper that is, so today is the day I'm going to put it to the real test and see if I can take a deer with it.
If your .54 cal has corrosion problems inside the barrel. A trick I did on my 50 caliber round ball gun was aluminum loading rod the copper brush and bore butter with a drill and just kept going up and down in the barrel polishing and cleaning it but afterwards had to keep using more bore butter on it all the time for about six months cleaning it twice a week with a bore butter patchs every other dry patch until I got all the rust and corrosion out. Worked pretty well got the gun to shoot good again
I tried these in a .50 caliber Lyman Great Plains rifle. They were very loose. Could not hit a 2'x2' piece of cardboard at 25 yds. In fact after about 5 shots, i gave up. No idea what they did after leaving the barrel.
Doesn’t seem like most gun shoot these bullets very well. I actually get pretty darn good accuracy with them because I tumble powder coat are super thick coating on to increase the diameter. A big thick coat of powder coat and no lube gets them to seat with a little force and I nice tight seal. My best group uses 60 grains of Pyrodex. I can put them all in one big hole. I’d like to hear how you did on 600 yards shooting because most guys can’t hit the broadside of a barn with these things at 100. lol
If you're having to use a mallet to start the bullet, and you didn't cast out of pure lead, those two facts are closely related. You should never cast anything but pure lead for BP guns, for better performance on game, and ESPECIALLY to reduce loading difficulty.
Since I plan on shooting these at the maximum powder charge I figured I'd cast them a little harder then pure lead. Also I didn't have any truly pure lead at the time.
I acknowledge that this comment is over a year old but I just found it. I have put about 80 rounds of REAL bullets through my 50 cal traditions buckstalker with 99% pure lead I casted myself and I found my self needing to use a mallet when starting my rounds
@@emjartan45acp The guy is saying that using hardened lead is the cause of the difficulty loading the bullet. I use REAL Bullets in a 54 Hawken and they almost fall down the barrel. I use Bore Butter and it helps season the barrel as well as help make for easy loading.
I just made little over 1100 of these real 50cal projectiles do you have to use a wad or with bore butter or can i just use the powder and the projectile or do i need a wad behind the projectile or bullet i use the wad on shooting a 50cal ball but this real bullet I'm new at thanks
These usually have a diameter around .512-.517 There should be no need for patches or wads when using the REAL bullets just like the Great Plains bullets. Just use alittle bore butter
@@sethmullins8346 They do seem to clean a good bit of fouling out. One thing I noticed on the plastic belted bullets is that adding cheese wax to them reduces the fouling greatly. I believe the cheese waxes melting point is somewhere around 100*F. The only down side is that it does start to get sticky around 90*F and will make a bit of a mess.
They should work, In my testing they have been pretty accurate and also they do seem to keep the barrel considerably cleaner then patched or plastic sabot/belted rounds.
They are a little bit of a pain to start I use a small wooden mallet. I think it was a nut cracker mallet. They do seem to keep the rifling from having fouling build up.
You don't start a bullet with a "bullet seater", you start the bullet with a "bullet starter" The bullet is seated using the ramrod. I lubricate mine using Lee Liquid Alox.
I meant to say starter my dyslexia got me on that one. I have not tried Alox for muzzle loaders. I have tried it for my .40S&W. It works sorta. it is messy and I have found it tends to gum up the dies till the alox comes off and sticks to one of the loaded bullets then it can cause a failure to battery. I will try to give it a try muzzle loading sometime in the next year.
Great video, your info is spot on and is very much what I did to load both 50 and 54 20/25 years ago. Both rifles were TCs with 1/48 twist shallow land bores. I used bore butter or natural patch lube. Seemed like the patch lube kept fouling softer.
I also used plastic wrap to keep mess to a minimum. Very soft lead over 90/100 grains in either bore gave very good accy beyond 100 yards.
Good job hope you make more videos!
Good informative info on your review of the Lee R.E.A.L. bullet, thanks. I've been casting and shooting the Lee R.E.A.L. bullets for a while now with real good results on paper that is, so today is the day I'm going to put it to the real test and see if I can take a deer with it.
If your .54 cal has corrosion problems inside the barrel. A trick I did on my 50 caliber round ball gun was aluminum loading rod the copper brush and bore butter with a drill and just kept going up and down in the barrel polishing and cleaning it but afterwards had to keep using more bore butter on it all the time for about six months cleaning it twice a week with a bore butter patchs every other dry patch until I got all the rust and corrosion out. Worked pretty well got the gun to shoot good again
Put lube in groves. It makes it so much easier and its ment so you dont have to clean barrel in between shots....
Have you ever hammered them into the barrel at home then at the range lined them up with the rifling to make them easier to load?
I tried these in a .50 caliber Lyman Great Plains rifle. They were very loose. Could not hit a 2'x2' piece of cardboard at 25 yds. In fact after about 5 shots, i gave up. No idea what they did after leaving the barrel.
Crisco wrapped in cigarette paper to keep it from getting everywhere. Edit: The thin toilet paper, as in public restroom type works well also.
Doesn’t seem like most gun shoot these bullets very well. I actually get pretty darn good accuracy with them because I tumble powder coat are super thick coating on to increase the diameter. A big thick coat of powder coat and no lube gets them to seat with a little force and I nice tight seal. My best group uses 60 grains of Pyrodex. I can put them all in one big hole. I’d like to hear how you did on 600 yards shooting because most guys can’t hit the broadside of a barn with these things at 100. lol
If you're having to use a mallet to start the bullet, and you didn't cast out of pure lead, those two facts are closely related. You should never cast anything but pure lead for BP guns, for better performance on game, and ESPECIALLY to reduce loading difficulty.
Since I plan on shooting these at the maximum powder charge I figured I'd cast them a little harder then pure lead. Also I didn't have any truly pure lead at the time.
Weslag1 ..... he said in the beginning of the video he didn't use pure lead ....weren't you listening
I acknowledge that this comment is over a year old but I just found it. I have put about 80 rounds of REAL bullets through my 50 cal traditions buckstalker with 99% pure lead I casted myself and I found my self needing to use a mallet when starting my rounds
@@emjartan45acp The guy is saying that using hardened lead is the cause of the difficulty loading the bullet. I use REAL Bullets in a 54 Hawken and they almost fall down the barrel. I use Bore Butter and it helps season the barrel as well as help make for easy loading.
Can you shoot these from a regular shotgun using the muzzleloader device they now have for shotguns?
Would you not just put them in a shot cup like a slug?
I want to see how these bad boys perform in an air gun like let’s say the Umax hammer
The 320gn REAL bullets don’t even engage the rifling when loading like the Great Plains do
what size would you get for a 50 caliber Traditions Percussion Gun 490 500 510
and I take it you would patch the base is not Hollow Mini ball
I have had great success with the .490 bullet.
U always want to be just over your bore diameter so you have a good seal
@@AmmoshortageNPwith black powder you can be 1 - 2 thousands under bore diameter and it'll load and shoot fine, shouldn't need a ball starter
@@usualsuspect5173 if you say so,
I just made little over 1100 of these real 50cal projectiles do you have to use a wad or with bore butter or can i just use the powder and the projectile or do i need a wad behind the projectile or bullet i use the wad on shooting a 50cal ball but this real bullet I'm new at thanks
Should be able to just use bore butter. I don't believe you would need a wad behind it but you could try it never know.
These usually have a diameter around .512-.517
There should be no need for patches or wads when using the REAL bullets just like the Great Plains bullets.
Just use alittle bore butter
Where's part 2????
Hopefully coming soon.
@@ShootingHobby I mean I've already ordered the mold lol
I decided to order a mold for real bullets because plastic fouling is horrible
@@sethmullins8346 They do seem to clean a good bit of fouling out. One thing I noticed on the plastic belted bullets is that adding cheese wax to them reduces the fouling greatly. I believe the cheese waxes melting point is somewhere around 100*F. The only down side is that it does start to get sticky around 90*F and will make a bit of a mess.
@@ShootingHobby I was going to try beeswax or candle wax softened with a little crisco melted in
That stuff works great, it’s just messy. Use bore butter, it’s just as good and smells great lol
Does anyone use them in a .50 stainless Lyman DeerStalker. Im keen to try them...
They should work, In my testing they have been pretty accurate and also they do seem to keep the barrel considerably cleaner then patched or plastic sabot/belted rounds.
I see they don't have a hollow base they must be a pain to load in a 50 caliber usually Minnie balls are a little bit undersized
They are a little bit of a pain to start I use a small wooden mallet. I think it was a nut cracker mallet. They do seem to keep the rifling from having fouling build up.
ShootingHobby no hallow base
These things almost drop right down the barrel of my Accura.
Got the lee dual mold
You don't start a bullet with a "bullet seater", you start the bullet with a "bullet starter" The bullet is seated using the ramrod. I lubricate mine using Lee Liquid Alox.
He just isn't up on terminology too well... Thompson Center, nor anyone else makes a "Hawkins" rifle.
Thompson did make a "Hawken" rifle. CVA also made and possible still makes a nearly identical version but I am not sure what they call it.
I meant to say starter my dyslexia got me on that one. I have not tried Alox for muzzle loaders. I have tried it for my .40S&W. It works sorta. it is messy and I have found it tends to gum up the dies till the alox comes off and sticks to one of the loaded bullets then it can cause a failure to battery. I will try to give it a try muzzle loading sometime in the next year.
If you know they made a "Hawken" rifle, it might have been good to call it that instead of a "Hawkins".
Actually it's called a short starter.i knew what he was talking about
Got the lee .490 and 320gn REAL mold and abunch of others.
LEES quality has gone way downhill
This bullet in my wife's 45 cal has killed 7 deer!
So stupid Accurate
Soft lead will shoot better.