Thanks for this. I found that when brewing beer or ale, aggressive primary was over in a week. I let secondary go for 3+ weeks or more. When both FG and bubbles and a good layer of lees indicated that secondary was REALLY (pretty much) done, it's then and only then that I started bottling. A carbonation drop, in each 12 oz bottle, and leaving these bottles for yet another 2+ weeks, before chilling and drinking, had reliably resulted in a PLEASANT TASTING brew. Having said THAT, I'm finding that fermenting 'hard cider', using natural, cold-pressed, unpasteurized, unmolested apple-juice, is truly a waiting game!
PSA. There are 177,423 topics Jesse could do about distilling however I will wait as they come out however being a patreon has great benefits and some voting opportunities for future endeavors. Thanks for ALL the efforts you do for the gang.
Another great video Jesse. Something all new or distillers should remember is that not all sugars are 100 percent ferment-able. Table sugar is only about 85% according to the Lovibond tables, where as corn sugar is 100 % ferment-able. This may throw off a beginner when it comes to understanding why their wash didn't get 1.0 or less. The difference may not be a lot, but it could be frustrating to someone thinking they are going to get to 1.0 or less. Experience, experience, experience !!! I think I mentioned to you before, that I spent a long time learning about this whole thing before I ever tried it, resulting in ots of stupid questions I never had to bother anybody with. Thanks again for everything you do to make the community a better one !!! -- den
I have to disagree with you. I've been making wine for 40 years and Table sugar is completely fermented into alcohol, I don't know why do you say that its only 85% wich is a lie.
@@kiyoshim9593 yup after reading what I posted you are correct. what I meant to say was brown sugar , not table sugar, is not 100 percent fermentable as the molasses is not 100 percent fermentable. I never get a 100 percent conversion when I make a rum wash with molasses and brown sugar.
i just plonk the hydrometer in my fermentation vessel at the start and leave it there having a sneek peek now and again. Saves any dribbles and contamination. not that anal to be worrying about parallax error or capillary action.
Good tip on the refractometer.....I literally battled my brain over unfinished fermentation until I realized that I needed to use a calculator to get the real numbers at the end!!!!
actually really good to know, I have a black strap rum wash in and has been sat at 1020 for a week or so now. I've just popped it into the ferm chamber at 32'c to push it right upto the yeast limit, then crash down before running.
Nice! Yeah, it may go a little lower still. But this is the reason that dunder is a thing. There is usually plenty left in there for the bugs after primary fermentation.
@@StillIt checked again today it's not budged after 24 hours at 32c so I'm going to run it as is. I did the same to my teddysad ffv though and dropped from 1020 to 990 over night so popped a thermometer in my brew room sat at 22c so good for beer not so much drying out wash fully. Thanks to the video so big thanks from me!
In the wine kits, Winexpert et al, they include a sachet of 'stabilizer' which when used seems to kill the yeast. That stops it fermenting - so no burst bottles. However, with beer I don't think it ever does stop, it may become dormant , lack of food, temp yet it isn't dead. Transfer fermented beer into a keg with priming sugar and off it goes again.
I let my inner nerdy hillbilly out and made a hydrometer. I love the understanding of how things work and being able to apply it to “make toob heavy at the bottom, mark on it SG of petrol, water and glycerine.” (0.72, 1, 1.26), and, because glycerine is miscible, I can mix in water to 1/4, 2/4, 3/4 ratios to verify my scale
Good stuff Jessie. I often get lazy and test the FG after I already kegged it. I almost got caught out last week on a new recipe, but decided to measure and it saved me from from drinking 1030 beer. Left it for another week.
Thanks for the great videos. You’ve been one of my go to sources for years. I’ve been distilling for twelve years and make a variety of alcohols thanks to your encouragement. I have an inverted sugar wash that is stuck, really the first time this has happened to me. Starting gravity was 1.086 (I know, pretty high!) starting Ph was 3.08. Started on 8/25 and it is now at SG 1.050 on 9/16. I added a can of tomato paste and 120grams of DAP when I started the fermentation. The mash size is 87 liters. Any ideas on getting fermentation going again? Temp has been 33 avg
You can try to help the yeast chew through the remaining unfermentable sugars and some of the soluble dietary fiber by adding Beano or a similar product to your wash.
Yup you can break it down with a enzyme for sure! I have heard more than a few pro distillers mention that residuale sugar in the pot can be a good thing tho. . . . . I have also heard plenty say thats bollocks haha. Perhaps its something we can test later on!
@@StillIt Absolutely. I know brewers aren't big fans of using Beano, as that leaves your beer as dry as they come, but that's less of an issue for distillers. That said, it might be an interesting experiment to see what other impact Beano might have on the distillate. Maybe split a batch of wort into two batches, and add beano to one of them. Once distilled, how do they compare?
Your timing on this video is amazing. I just did my very first wash. First night, it developed a bubble and a "cap". I checked it the next morning, and the cap was gone because my buckets weren't sealed. Watched this video, and now it's bubbling again. I was wondering if something went wrong and the yeast did die because of the temp or something... technically, couldn't you just add a bit of sugar and new yeast to restart it?
Even with a correction factor, cheap refractometers are pretty with less for calculating final gravity. Use an hydrometer and correct for wash temperature using the sheet that comes with your hydrometer. Refractometers are handy for Original Gravity since no alcohol is present, just make sure to get a clear sample.
Aha, “it’s not bolox but” made me smile again, thanks dude :-) molasses run now a month on... still running “slow, very slow” I’m not stressed :-) Thanks again dude, your ace
If you are an impatient person, this maybe the wrong hobby for you. One spends a lot of time waiting...waiting for fermentation, waiting for the still to produce, and waiting for spirits to age...but in the end it is all worth it!
This is why I have 15 different things fermenting as I write this and enough containers for 20 more everything from 5 gallon carboys to 80 gallon drums because you never know when fermentables will show up and I like to be prepared.
Question...if we get to the point where we can not buy yeast...I'm a prepper. Can I take some sediment off the bottom of the fermenter and feed it with sugar to keep it going like sour dough bread?
Jessie a nice simple explanation but you forgot about Murphy. 🙂 Murphy's Law states: If you buy one Hydrometer you'll drop it and break it just when you really need it. However if you buy two Hydrometers you'll never break one. 😜👍
It’s a hard call... I’ve given up on a mash. It came down about 5 points in a week... So I just put a lid on it. Lo and behold the lid kept bulging... so I’d vent it. Slowly it keeps going. 👍🥃
I found a batch of fruit and grain that had been pushed to the back and overlooked for 6 months. It smells good, no mold. My question is can the mash go bad? Can I distill it without worry of blindness? Lol Is there a max time to ferment? Thanks for your input. For your piece of mind; As always I understand that the final decision is mine alone and you are not responsible for anything I do.
As long as you sanitized before fermentation and your mash hasn't been exposed to air after it was done you should be fine to run it even if it's 6 months old
The slower the ferment the cleaner the outcome. Fast, warm ferments = lots of off flavors. Loved how you explained that excess sugar washes = high osmotic pressure on yeasts in your last video. More people need to understand this. onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/j.2050-0416.2003.tb00162.x You complained about how slow your last mash fermented and how inefficient the distillation was, but also stated it was the best tasting neutral you ever produced. Part of that was the still, but also the mash and fermentaiton. EC1118 may be a slow yeast, but it ferments very cleanly and has a high alcohol tolerance. People should be taught to sugar feed their fermentations for higher alcohol and cleaner fermentations. Distill on !
You should do a video about different solutions to stuck fermentations! Next time you have a stuck fermentation you could split it and try different methods... For science.
i second this. i may do it actually. but heres a bit of what i learned from swims experience . if it gets too cold itll stall if it gets too hot it kill the yeast. if theres too much yeast and or u push it too hot or without some type of food ( i.e. synthetic nutrients or raisins or oats or boiled potato water) it cause the products of sulfar dioxide. itd smell eggy. now if your going to distill i dont think thats a huge problem. but if your trying to brew a high proof wine thats no palate pleaser. so u do what ive now learned is typically called splash racking or u can utilize copper to remove it if that doesnt help. but if u go with copper although its effective make sure u filter adequate proper and enough. cuz it creates a byproduct particl u probably would not want .
The better question is will my mash spoil if I leave it for 2-3 weeks while I’m dragging freight across the country? As always thanks for the good info!
you are good mate just leave it till you are ready it aint going nowhere and the bucket dont eat anything or need a shower so leave it till you are ready
+1. And, leave it covered and resist the urge to open it up and futz with it. If you have some head space, a layer of CO2 will stay at the top. The CO2 layer is heavier than air and will remain there as long as you don't take the lid on and off. I've had washes sit for 3 months and longer.
Till its done 🤣 I break plastic tubes as well i finally went to the white plastic ones you can't see threw but they don't break. I usually do a grain on fermintation when its all cleared and no bubbles. There is also taste there should be no sweet left Thanks for the great tips 👍 One little tip I can share is the paper scale in gje hydrometer can move around maybe some don't get glued in to place right 🤷♀️ so take a caliper and measure from the tip of the tube to 0 wright that measurement down some place safe i do it on the conversion chart i keep in the hydrometer case. Then if it looks off you can know for sure.
Yes! I just had this happen to me. Couldnt realise why the readings were so far out, after many "how am I getting this wrong" I realised that the paper had come loose and was sliding around inside! Thats a good tip to be able to check if this has happened.
@@StillIt lol yes same here it took some head scratching to figure it out luckily I always keep two and I tried my spare then compared them and sure enough!
Hey what’s a good gravity reading to transfer my mango wine to the secondary fermentation? It’s at a gravity reading of 1.070 and it’s been 2 weeks now. I didn’t use yeast packets in this process just used grapes as my yeast starter
@@Wakefar my starting gravity was exactly 1.100. I did a 2 gallon batch with 4 pounds of sugar because I read it should be 1-3 lbs of sugar per gallon.
A short hot fermentation seems to be optimal for whiskey though, slowly torturing your yeast to death for a week or two is probably not the way to go for a clean spirit. But hey, try both see what happens?
Well you told me what I needed to know..i made my first batch of honey mead. Im at .002 or .02 after brewing for 8 days.. Started it the 29th of nov.. But my bottles have not come in yet so they'll sit alittle longer and I'll tske another reading. Its a very light body mead with light flavor
good vid like always! i normaly do rum,and use a the mix off calculator table, expected alchohol %, starting gravity and end gravity if the final number is close the the expected % and all look like is stop! is time for destilling!! now i got 2 questions!!! 1, what to do if stop early!! and 2, what about leaving it longer! any advantage or disadvantages to leaving fermenting longer!!! keep the videos coming!! and gretting from puerto rico!!!
Few things you can do for a stuck ferment: - Give the fermenter a gentle shake - Warm it up a little - Check pH did it drop too much? - Check temp, did it get too cold? - Re-pitch a different batch of yeast Nope, no real down side to leaving it longer. I wouldnt think twice about going for 3 weeks. 3-10 weeks is kinda the "if I have a reason" after that its getting a bit long. (depending on your situations)
I'm making some bourbon to fill a 5.28 gallon barrel. Mashed in grains as needed. Drained off liquid and sparged. Repeated that process for second fermentation. Most of the grains I used again but added some sugar to it. There is 3 fermentation containers going with 2 off the grain and 1 on the grain with sugar. All 3 are done fermenting. Each container comes to 1.010, does that sound right? You mentioned 1.002 to 1.008 being right there. Thanks
from swims experience . if it gets too cold itll stall if it gets too hot it kill the yeast. if theres too much yeast and or u push it too hot or without some type of food ( i.e. synthetic nutrients or raisins or oats or fruit or boiled potato water. food in lamens terms) it cause the production of sulfar dioxide. itd smell eggy. now if your going to distill i dont think thats a huge problem. but if your trying to brew a high proof wine thats no palate pleaser. so u do what ive now learned is typically called splash racking or u can utilize copper to remove it if that doesnt help. but if u go with copper although its effective make sure u filter adequate proper and enough. cuz it creates a byproduct particl u probably would not want .⁸
My corn/barley mash started at 1.120 but only fermented down to 1.044 even know it fermented real hard the first four to five days. Recipe was 4 lbs of flaked maize, 2 lbs of Six Row, 12 lbs of sugar, and traditional 7 1/8 oz corn sugar to get the initial OG at 1.120. I still rain it and it came out great, but what did I do wrong ? Too much sugar, wrong temps ? I used 48 hr Turbo yeast. Any thoughts for next time, would be much appreciated ! Thanks !! Batch size was 5 gallons
@Warrior Son So you think just way too much sugar for the yeast to handle then ? It did ferment like gang busters for the first few days. I will go with a lower SG next time for sure, thanks for the advice, much appreciated !!
Yeah, 1.120 is pretty big. I know a lot of the turbo style recipes push things that high, but it is generally a trade off against flavour. The other side of it is that you end up leaving unfermented sugar behind if it does not ferment out fully. So its really not economical on a yield point of view either. If you want to go about things a little differently next time try switching away from the turbo stuff. Like Warrior son said, aim for 1.070 - 1.080 range. Use a brewing yeast and you should have a much happier ferment. IMO a better tasting product too :)
I have a red wine that I started last Oct. that is still fermenting now. Gravity slowed way down once it hit 1.000. I thought it was done at 0.998 back in Dec., but it still continues to off gas. Go figure! lol
Hey, Jim, since it is a red wine it is probably in malolactic fermentation, which also produces CO2. You can tell by repeated hydrometer readings as Jesse indicates, but if your readings are between 1.000 and 0.995 you are done with primary fermentation. Malolactic is considered by many commercial winemakers to be desirable.
Hi, is there any way to know when to start distilling without those tools? I dont care for exact measurements of alcohol its my first wash and i just dont want to he too early or too late, i made it with brown sugar and white bastard sugar Caramelized it before adding the water, added some honey and spices And bakers yeast
Thanks for the info. I need your help as I am stuck with a failed fermentation. I have made good wines before but this time I thought I would try making a Fortified Wine. The biggest mistake I made ( which I realized later ) was adding Brandy at the very start of fermentation. This has 'killed' the yeast I suppose. Its 10 days now and there's no fermentation. Initial gravity was 1.076 and today it's 1.056. Do I add the Yeast and yeast nutrients once again? I really need your advice / help. Thanks in advance.
I live in the Aussie bush, we ave quite hard bore water and yeast loves it, now and then I try get fancy and use rain water ( Zero ec ) but even with yeast nutrient it stalls. Gonna stop trying to get fancy, any minerals from the water don't distill anyway.
Put a small ball of copper or stainless steel mesh in the botton of your test flask and you won't break your hydrometer by dropping it in to hard just a million other ways
So I have a question... I understand WHEN it's done fermenting... but how long can that fermentation last? Let's say it finishes but I cant distill for 2 weeks...will it sour? How long do I have until it goes bad??
If you keep it capped off tightly, it will last six months or more. The alcohol in the mash will keep it from spoiling. Don't believe the myth that it goes bad.
Yup good Q. Like the team say, if your sanitation is good its not really going to change for a while. There is some small concern with autolysis. Where yeast cells die and burst leaving a off flavour. But I wouldn't worry about that too much. Just remember too, souring is not always a bad thing. Wild yeast normally means extra acid. Acid normally means esterification in the still. But once that starts its not something you would want to let go for too long.
If it's an unboiled barley mash it will start to sour straight after primary fermentation from the natural bacteria in the malt, this is a good thing though as it will produce acids and in turn esters. In general a short fermentation will produce fruity flavors and a longer fermentation will produce waxy flavors.
And it is a "Chase"! THANK YOU! As a Journeyman(Mister) craftsman in Multiple Crafts, one Must learn to use the tools of any trade Well! I will Learn more! to become a Whiskey Mister?
If you are using turbo yeast or some strain that doesnt flocculate as well how much influence does the yeast that is still in suspension have on the hydrometer reading.
Hi Jesse, will a TPW wash Degas itself if left for a month or two? Also can it be left in the primary or does it need to be transferred into a secondary while the natural clearing and degassing process is happening? Cheers.
If your strike temp for grain is at 70 to 74c and your mash sits at 65c for 90min is that normal , or does that strike temp give to many unfermentable sugars?
Say I hit my pure grape juice with my yeast and moved ,so never put the sugar to it ,6 months later I seperate the juice away from yeast , remember there was never any sugar added. And now I'm pouring that juice in with about 400 smashed grapes and will add sugar now, should I put fresh yeast in ,even though yeast sat upon that grape juice for 6 months
Make a video about aging in the dark, sun, and what abv get some other flavors. And what happends when you let your alcohol open in the air for a few hours.
So if SG has been the same ever since it dropped from the first reading and the air lock bubbles once in a while and you have been fermenting a beer for 14 days does it mean its ready if the SG is the same? Or must one wait for the air lock to stop bubbling
have a apple mead i ran for 4 months of ferment, added in some firmfast/dualfine clarifying agents and for 2 days it has had a wierd central cloud....is this normal?
thanks mate, timely video. I did a reading on my FTT last night however it was still a little warm when i did the reading ~30 deg, I've adjusted to take this into account and im sitting at 1.0653 for a 190ltr wash, should I a) take the second sample at the same temp or b) just try to hit the guidelines on (mostly) sugar wash ot st or below 1? Cheers and keep up the content mate
Sounds like you have a fair bit of fermentation to go. I would just let it ride for a few days. How big was it when it started? If its all sugar you should get that thing down to bellow 0 (as long as its within your yeast alcohol tolerance).
@@StillIt haha little late night Dyslexia there :) its a TFF not a FTT... about 3kg of grain was used, however being an Aussie and not wanting to follow our Tasman brothers to closely so I only added the wort to the final ferment. My question was more about when I think fermentation is complete should i take my second measurement at 30 deg c or or just take it at room temp and try and get close to or less then 0.
Question: does it really matter if fermentation is complete? Hypothetically if kick off a mash or wash on a Saturday at 1.07 and I want to strip on the Sunday 8 days later and my SG is 1.006 does it matter? Time is more important that trying to squeeze out another 0.1% potential ABV.
Depends what your goals are and whats important to you. If your time is the most important sure. But if your running by time you will very often loose a whole lot more than 0.1%. You may also miss out on flavour development depending on your fermentation profile.
Hey Jesse, can you do a vid on pH management during a ferment. I’ve done a few TPW washes now and follow the recipe but each time have had to manage pH in varying degrees. The 50l batch I have on the go now dropped to 2.8 after about a week. Is sodium bicarbonate better than calcium carbonate and what’s a good level to adjust back too? I think I used 5 teaspoons of bicarb to get it back into the mid 4’s so can you add too much? Does not seem to be much IRT clear guidelines around this subject.
Get some sea shells and boil them in hot water to clean and disinfect them then hang them in in your wash in a mesh bag you will be amazed at whats left when your wash is finished small chips of marble also work.
made 2 pale ales both started at 1.060, one finished at 8 brix the other at 6. i liked the one at 8 better(less dry and less alcohol). i ended the fermentation early on the 8 because of an error, but when i put into plastic bottles to condition ,(which i do all the time and then force carb) the yeast had not settled out and started fermenting. how do you stop fermentation early, but get all the yeast out?
Ok.. so a year ago lol. You have probably figured a way around it. But if not, or for others... I'd try heating. Just heat.(pasteurization) Google the temps and time.. It will cause the yeast to fall out of suspension. Or they have clearing agents, but that will add sulfides (hangovers lol)
@@stevencouch9281 you are fine.. extra oxygen to grow more yeast cells, I think. Check your hydrometer, and if it doesn't restart, try adding some water to the mash. Likely will be fine, in my experience
Good video, but wish you had gone into some of the reasons why a ferment might stall and ways to mitigate those things. BTW - you still scare the crap out of me with all the arm waving. Especially when an expensive hydometer is involved.
Hi brewers! I am in desperate need of help from you experts! I am experiencing a frustrating stall in the fermentation of 2 of the 3 batches I started a month ago. I will go with the full story and a summary in the end for the lazy helpers! So.. I am on a quest to find my perfect recipe, I obviously got into frenzy and gave birth to 7 one gallon batches (yes, I know) but with all the advice I got online the only batches I really have hope for are the last 3, the ones I made with all the required equipement, ingredients and attention to the details. For those 3 batches I wanted to have similar recipes, with some small and pondered differences so that I can start to make experience on what I like and what not. That said, let’s go straight to the point: I have these 2 batches started one month ago at 22 BRIX, with a yeast called “grand zin” that claims an ABV of 19%, a temperature range from 15 to 35 C, and stuffs like that, so in theory it should ferment everything (our expected abv is 12ish). I added 3,5g of tartaric acid, The correctly activated yeast, and Nutristart (similar to fermaid K, so DAP and shells) following TOSNA: 0,6g after 24,48,72h and a week (total 2,4g). I left it in my house in the corridor, temperature of around 28C (I m in Sardinia, Italy), it s not completely dark but no direct sunlight. The fermentation started vigorously, and in ten days the BRIXs dropped to 12, then it slowed down a bit (it should be normal) but then after 20 days I noticed it stopped at 8.1 and 8.8 in the two batches respectively. I waited one week and with my despair the refractometer standed still. We are in range of temperature and under the ABV (should be around 8 at the moment). After some time I needed to try something because this thing was driving me mad, so I tested the pH with some paper strips (pHmeter on its way via amazon) and it seemed a bit acidic. I added 3g of bicarbonate to a gallon batch (I still find so hard to use imperial system argg) and surprisingly it bubbled a lot and seemed to help but three days later BRIX are still the same. I was desperate, I saw some activity with yeast and not much precipitate so I thought the yeast was still alive, I added in one batch 0,6g of Nutristart (I know it s not recommended but I need to try everything) but nothing. SUMMARY: Temperature: 26-28 C Starting Brix: 22 BRIX after 5 days: 15 BRIX after 20 days: 8 Then stuck at 8. Yeast “Grand Zin” La food (abv:19%, Temp range 15-35 Celsius) 3,5g tartaric acid at day one 2,4g Nutristart (staggered addition) Antistuck countermeasures: -adding bicarbonate: bubbling at the start but no influences on fermentation -lowering temperature: (to 18C, only tried with one batch) nothing, the yeast precipitated -adding nutrients: nothing changed What should I do? Pitching more started yeast? Changing Yeast? Help!
Wouldn't that be around 14%? What are you brewing? So many variables. Recipe, mash temps?attenuation?That's a long time in primary for beer. I'd bottle and call it good.
I have a wash that started at 1.130 and is now at 1.000, but still bubbling, all be it slowly. I tasted the wash and it's not sweet now, but it's also not sour. Should I leave it for another week or run it?
Still It oops ... I wasn’t aware there are mixes that will not get to .000 . I have done rum and sugar type washes and didn’t have a problem getting to .000 with a starting SG of .090
mine's stop the second day after i change pot i add some yeast nothing i heat it up again nothing and last shot i add two spoons of sugar(syrop)and with baby stop mf fer restarted!!I dont know if this is right or wring way but it workrd for me..
Is it true you have a little sign being made for the front right of the bench. Saying "Your ad can go here" I think so many viewers are fixated on that spot.
Thanks for this. I found that when brewing beer or ale, aggressive primary was over in a week. I let secondary go for 3+ weeks or more. When both FG and bubbles and a good layer of lees indicated that secondary was REALLY (pretty much) done, it's then and only then that I started bottling. A carbonation drop, in each 12 oz bottle, and leaving these bottles for yet another 2+ weeks, before chilling and drinking, had reliably resulted in a PLEASANT TASTING brew.
Having said THAT, I'm finding that fermenting 'hard cider', using natural, cold-pressed, unpasteurized, unmolested apple-juice, is truly a waiting game!
PSA. There are 177,423 topics Jesse could do about distilling however I will wait as they come out however being a patreon has great benefits and some voting opportunities for future endeavors. Thanks for ALL the efforts you do for the gang.
Another great video Jesse. Something all new or distillers should remember is that not all sugars are 100 percent ferment-able. Table sugar is only about 85% according to the Lovibond tables, where as corn sugar is 100 % ferment-able. This may throw off a beginner when it comes to understanding why their wash didn't get 1.0 or less. The difference may not be a lot, but it could be frustrating to someone thinking they are going to get to 1.0 or less. Experience, experience, experience !!!
I think I mentioned to you before, that I spent a long time learning about this whole thing before I ever tried it, resulting in ots of stupid questions I never had to bother anybody with. Thanks again for everything you do to make the community a better one !!! -- den
I have to disagree with you. I've been making wine for 40 years and Table sugar is completely fermented into alcohol, I don't know why do you say that its only 85% wich is a lie.
@@kiyoshim9593 yup after reading what I posted you are correct. what I meant to say was brown sugar , not table sugar, is not 100 percent fermentable as the molasses is not 100 percent fermentable. I never get a 100 percent conversion when I make a rum wash with molasses and brown sugar.
i just plonk the hydrometer in my fermentation vessel at the start and leave it there having a sneek peek now and again. Saves any dribbles and contamination. not that anal to be worrying about parallax error or capillary action.
Jesse, I was scouting around and looks like you totally answered my SOS from yesterday. Cheers!
Good tip on the refractometer.....I literally battled my brain over unfinished fermentation until I realized that I needed to use a calculator to get the real numbers at the end!!!!
actually really good to know, I have a black strap rum wash in and has been sat at 1020 for a week or so now. I've just popped it into the ferm chamber at 32'c to push it right upto the yeast limit, then crash down before running.
Nice! Yeah, it may go a little lower still. But this is the reason that dunder is a thing. There is usually plenty left in there for the bugs after primary fermentation.
@@StillIt checked again today it's not budged after 24 hours at 32c so I'm going to run it as is.
I did the same to my teddysad ffv though and dropped from 1020 to 990 over night so popped a thermometer in my brew room sat at 22c so good for beer not so much drying out wash fully.
Thanks to the video so big thanks from me!
In the wine kits, Winexpert et al, they include a sachet of 'stabilizer' which when used seems to kill the yeast. That stops it fermenting - so no burst bottles. However, with beer I don't think it ever does stop, it may become dormant , lack of food, temp yet it isn't dead. Transfer fermented beer into a keg with priming sugar and off it goes again.
I let my inner nerdy hillbilly out and made a hydrometer.
I love the understanding of how things work and being able to apply it to “make toob heavy at the bottom, mark on it SG of petrol, water and glycerine.”
(0.72, 1, 1.26), and, because glycerine is miscible, I can mix in water to 1/4, 2/4, 3/4 ratios to verify my scale
How did you "make a hydrometer" im curious
Never buy one hydrometer. When you have only one, it will rapidly commit suicide. If you have 2 they will last forever.
wise words mate
Damn! You beat me to it!
Heh, yeah. Especially if you are me!
+1 Roger Barrett. Just saw your comment after I posted similar comment.
So much truth in there, you wouldn't believe!
Good stuff Jessie. I often get lazy and test the FG after I already kegged it. I almost got caught out last week on a new recipe, but decided to measure and it saved me from from drinking 1030 beer. Left it for another week.
Thanks for the great videos. You’ve been one of my go to sources for years.
I’ve been distilling for twelve years and make a variety of alcohols thanks to your encouragement.
I have an inverted sugar wash that is stuck, really the first time this has happened to me. Starting gravity was 1.086 (I know, pretty high!) starting Ph was 3.08. Started on 8/25 and it is now at SG 1.050 on 9/16.
I added a can of tomato paste and 120grams of DAP when I started the fermentation. The mash size is 87 liters. Any ideas on getting fermentation going again? Temp has been 33 avg
You can try to help the yeast chew through the remaining unfermentable sugars and some of the soluble dietary fiber by adding Beano or a similar product to your wash.
Yup you can break it down with a enzyme for sure!
I have heard more than a few pro distillers mention that residuale sugar in the pot can be a good thing tho. . . . . I have also heard plenty say thats bollocks haha.
Perhaps its something we can test later on!
@@StillIt Absolutely. I know brewers aren't big fans of using Beano, as that leaves your beer as dry as they come, but that's less of an issue for distillers. That said, it might be an interesting experiment to see what other impact Beano might have on the distillate. Maybe split a batch of wort into two batches, and add beano to one of them. Once distilled, how do they compare?
Your timing on this video is amazing. I just did my very first wash. First night, it developed a bubble and a "cap". I checked it the next morning, and the cap was gone because my buckets weren't sealed. Watched this video, and now it's bubbling again.
I was wondering if something went wrong and the yeast did die because of the temp or something... technically, couldn't you just add a bit of sugar and new yeast to restart it?
Even with a correction factor, cheap refractometers are pretty with less for calculating final gravity. Use an hydrometer and correct for wash temperature using the sheet that comes with your hydrometer. Refractometers are handy for Original Gravity since no alcohol is present, just make sure to get a clear sample.
I bought mine from Brewing America , yes it was expensive. But you get what you pay for. I have no regrets.
Yeah, they are nice
Thank you much. I found many videos on how to make a sugar wash. Finally I know when it's finished.
Aha, “it’s not bolox but” made me smile again, thanks dude :-) molasses run now a month on... still running “slow, very slow” I’m not stressed :-)
Thanks again dude, your ace
My rum wash took a month to ferment using a combination Belgium ale yeast and EC1118. Starting gravity was 1.10.
Mine is 1/3 molasses and it week 2 and slowing down. Forgot to take a first reading
I’ve used yeast energizer to help the fermentation go faster. Just don’t stir, you’ll get a brown fountain lol
If you are an impatient person, this maybe the wrong hobby for you. One spends a lot of time waiting...waiting for fermentation, waiting for the still to produce, and waiting for spirits to age...but in the end it is all worth it!
This!
@@StillIt do you remember the guinness advert with the surfer thats my life in fermentation
This is why I have 15 different things fermenting as I write this and enough containers for 20 more everything from 5 gallon carboys to 80 gallon drums because you never know when fermentables will show up and I like to be prepared.
Question...if we get to the point where we can not buy yeast...I'm a prepper. Can I take some sediment off the bottom of the fermenter and feed it with sugar to keep it going like sour dough bread?
Jessie a nice simple explanation but you forgot about Murphy. 🙂
Murphy's Law states:
If you buy one Hydrometer you'll drop it and break it just when you really need it.
However if you buy two Hydrometers you'll never break one. 😜👍
Can you visit commercial yeast producers showing the production of bulk yeast.
Dude, I would LOVE to! May take a while, when this covid stuff settles down.
It’s a hard call...
I’ve given up on a mash.
It came down about 5 points in a week...
So I just put a lid on it.
Lo and behold the lid kept bulging... so I’d vent it.
Slowly it keeps going.
👍🥃
Loved the video. Only one out there actually answering my questions. Subscribed. I'll stick around for now.
Also. Love the Nick Offerman vibe.
I found a batch of fruit and grain that had been pushed to the back and overlooked for 6 months. It smells good, no mold. My question is can the mash go bad? Can I distill it without worry of blindness? Lol Is there a max time to ferment? Thanks for your input. For your piece of mind; As always I understand that the final decision is mine alone and you are not responsible for anything I do.
As long as you sanitized before fermentation and your mash hasn't been exposed to air after it was done you should be fine to run it even if it's 6 months old
The slower the ferment the cleaner the outcome. Fast, warm ferments = lots of off flavors. Loved how you explained that excess sugar washes = high osmotic pressure on yeasts in your last video. More people need to understand this.
onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/j.2050-0416.2003.tb00162.x
You complained about how slow your last mash fermented and how inefficient the distillation was, but also stated it was the best tasting neutral you ever produced. Part of that was the still, but also the mash and fermentaiton.
EC1118 may be a slow yeast, but it ferments very cleanly and has a high alcohol tolerance. People should be taught to sugar feed their fermentations for higher alcohol and cleaner fermentations.
Distill on !
You should do a video about different solutions to stuck fermentations! Next time you have a stuck fermentation you could split it and try different methods... For science.
i second this. i may do it actually. but heres a bit of what i learned from swims experience .
if it gets too cold itll stall if it gets too hot it kill the yeast.
if theres too much yeast and or u push it too hot or without some type of food ( i.e. synthetic nutrients or raisins or oats or boiled potato water) it cause the products of sulfar dioxide.
itd smell eggy. now if your going to distill i dont think thats a huge problem. but if your trying to brew a high proof wine thats no palate pleaser.
so u do what ive now learned is typically called splash racking or u can utilize copper to remove it if that doesnt help. but if u go with copper although its effective make sure u filter adequate proper and enough. cuz it creates a byproduct particl u probably would not want .
The better question is will my mash spoil if I leave it for 2-3 weeks while I’m dragging freight across the country? As always thanks for the good info!
you are good mate just leave it till you are ready it aint going nowhere and the bucket dont eat anything or need a shower so leave it till you are ready
+1. And, leave it covered and resist the urge to open it up and futz with it. If you have some head space, a layer of CO2 will stay at the top. The CO2 layer is heavier than air and will remain there as long as you don't take the lid on and off. I've had washes sit for 3 months and longer.
Sweet, thanks guys. Be building a still soon then.
Exactly. If it's covered and left the alcohol will keep it fine. Only watch Discovery's Moonshiners for fun. :)
@@kevinbaxter2578 I keep wondering why everyone in that show is subtitled...I can understand em just fine...
l like the info, I was almost sure you hand and arm speak was going to knock it hydrometer off the bar LOL.
We all want to know where you got that shirt!!!
www.intotheam.com/collections/sale-items/products/taste-of-space-mens-tee?color=Black
Looks like they are discontinuing it though :(
Till its done 🤣 I break plastic tubes as well i finally went to the white plastic ones you can't see threw but they don't break. I usually do a grain on fermintation when its all cleared and no bubbles. There is also taste there should be no sweet left Thanks for the great tips 👍
One little tip I can share is the paper scale in gje hydrometer can move around maybe some don't get glued in to place right 🤷♀️ so take a caliper and measure from the tip of the tube to 0 wright that measurement down some place safe i do it on the conversion chart i keep in the hydrometer case. Then if it looks off you can know for sure.
Yes! I just had this happen to me. Couldnt realise why the readings were so far out, after many "how am I getting this wrong" I realised that the paper had come loose and was sliding around inside! Thats a good tip to be able to check if this has happened.
@@StillIt lol yes same here it took some head scratching to figure it out luckily I always keep two and I tried my spare then compared them and sure enough!
Good lord has my hydrometer saved me from more than a few awkward conversations when homebrewing. Love it, learn it, never leave a brew without it.
Hey what’s a good gravity reading to transfer my mango wine to the secondary fermentation? It’s at a gravity reading of 1.070 and it’s been 2 weeks now. I didn’t use yeast packets in this process just used grapes as my yeast starter
@@romemac1380 what was your starting gravity? 1.07 still seems pretty high, but if you're looking for a sweet wine then you're in a good ballpark.
@@Wakefar my starting gravity was exactly 1.100. I did a 2 gallon batch with 4 pounds of sugar because I read it should be 1-3 lbs of sugar per gallon.
A short hot fermentation seems to be optimal for whiskey though, slowly torturing your yeast to death for a week or two is probably not the way to go for a clean spirit. But hey, try both see what happens?
Sir I kept fermention until three month so can I distill or not, malted barley, dates, cinnamon, raisin.
I thought taste would have been a better indication. Does it still taste sweet?
Love this it was just what I needed to know about the mash and ferment process thanks so much.
Well you told me what I needed to know..i made my first batch of honey mead. Im at .002 or .02 after brewing for 8 days.. Started it the 29th of nov.. But my bottles have not come in yet so they'll sit alittle longer and I'll tske another reading. Its a very light body mead with light flavor
good vid like always! i normaly do rum,and use a the mix off calculator table, expected alchohol %, starting gravity and end gravity if the final number is close the the expected % and all look like is stop! is time for destilling!! now i got 2 questions!!! 1, what to do if stop early!! and 2, what about leaving it longer! any advantage or disadvantages to leaving fermenting longer!!! keep the videos coming!! and gretting from puerto rico!!!
Few things you can do for a stuck ferment:
- Give the fermenter a gentle shake
- Warm it up a little
- Check pH did it drop too much?
- Check temp, did it get too cold?
- Re-pitch a different batch of yeast
Nope, no real down side to leaving it longer. I wouldnt think twice about going for 3 weeks. 3-10 weeks is kinda the "if I have a reason" after that its getting a bit long. (depending on your situations)
Will using brown sugar be the same as using molasses because that’s the main ingredient?
It takes a Human to teach us how to make a good brew, thanks...
You bet! Dont probe me :)
I'm making some bourbon to fill a 5.28 gallon barrel. Mashed in grains as needed. Drained off liquid and sparged. Repeated that process for second fermentation. Most of the grains I used again but added some sugar to it. There is 3 fermentation containers going with 2 off the grain and 1 on the grain with sugar. All 3 are done fermenting. Each container comes to 1.010, does that sound right? You mentioned 1.002 to 1.008 being right there. Thanks
from swims experience .
if it gets too cold itll stall if it gets too hot it kill the yeast.
if theres too much yeast and or u push it too hot or without some type of food ( i.e. synthetic nutrients or raisins or oats or fruit or boiled potato water. food in lamens terms) it cause the production of sulfar dioxide.
itd smell eggy. now if your going to distill i dont think thats a huge problem. but if your trying to brew a high proof wine thats no palate pleaser.
so u do what ive now learned is typically called splash racking or u can utilize copper to remove it if that doesnt help. but if u go with copper although its effective make sure u filter adequate proper and enough. cuz it creates a byproduct particl u probably would not want .⁸
Hint, the blue ring is supposed to help in keeping you from breaking the top if it tips over. 😁
WHEN AND HOW OFTEN DO YOU STIR YOUR MUSK?
My corn/barley mash started at 1.120 but only fermented down to 1.044 even know it fermented real hard the first four to five days. Recipe was 4 lbs of flaked maize, 2 lbs of Six Row, 12 lbs of sugar, and traditional 7 1/8 oz corn sugar to get the initial OG at 1.120. I still rain it and it came out great, but what did I do wrong ? Too much sugar, wrong temps ? I used 48 hr Turbo yeast. Any thoughts for next time, would be much appreciated ! Thanks !! Batch size was 5 gallons
@Warrior Son So you think just way too much sugar for the yeast to handle then ? It did ferment like gang busters for the first few days. I will go with a lower SG next time for sure, thanks for the advice, much appreciated !!
Yeah, 1.120 is pretty big. I know a lot of the turbo style recipes push things that high, but it is generally a trade off against flavour.
The other side of it is that you end up leaving unfermented sugar behind if it does not ferment out fully. So its really not economical on a yield point of view either.
If you want to go about things a little differently next time try switching away from the turbo stuff. Like Warrior son said, aim for 1.070 - 1.080 range. Use a brewing yeast and you should have a much happier ferment. IMO a better tasting product too :)
Still It Thabks man ! I will go ahead and try again with this advice ! Brew On !
I have a red wine that I started last Oct. that is still fermenting now. Gravity slowed way down once it hit 1.000. I thought it was done at 0.998 back in Dec., but it still continues to off gas. Go figure! lol
When a long fermentation like that happens I always suspect the yeast is weak or died and a bacteria has taken over fermentation. Keep us informed.
Hey, Jim, since it is a red wine it is probably in malolactic fermentation, which also produces CO2. You can tell by repeated hydrometer readings as Jesse indicates, but if your readings are between 1.000 and 0.995 you are done with primary fermentation. Malolactic is considered by many commercial winemakers to be desirable.
A must have item for sure! Thanks for sharing!
Jesse, You don't need ONE hydrometer... You need TWO! Always have a backup.
Shit happens. I need to order another backup. Cheers!
What should I be aming for on a slivoviz /plum brandy
Hi, is there any way to know when to start distilling without those tools? I dont care for exact measurements of alcohol its my first wash and i just dont want to he too early or too late, i made it with brown sugar and white bastard sugar
Caramelized it before adding the water, added some honey and spices
And bakers yeast
how long do you let yor mash fermentation ? 6 hours later I still asking //outstanding
Thanks for the info. I need your help as I am stuck with a failed fermentation. I have made good wines before but this time I thought I would try making a Fortified Wine. The biggest mistake I made ( which I realized later ) was adding Brandy at the very start of fermentation. This has 'killed' the yeast I suppose. Its 10 days now and there's no fermentation. Initial gravity was 1.076 and today it's 1.056. Do I add the Yeast and yeast nutrients once again? I really need your advice / help. Thanks in advance.
I live in the Aussie bush, we ave quite hard bore water and yeast loves it, now and then I try get fancy and use rain water ( Zero ec ) but even with yeast nutrient it stalls.
Gonna stop trying to get fancy, any minerals from the water don't distill anyway.
Ps - I have a hydrometer.
Put a small ball of copper or stainless steel mesh in the botton of your test flask and you won't break your hydrometer by dropping it in to hard just a million other ways
Great idea !
Why do you need to drop it? What's wrong with place and spin?
@@peterscandlyn Shit happens
So I have a question... I understand WHEN it's done fermenting... but how long can that fermentation last? Let's say it finishes but I cant distill for 2 weeks...will it sour? How long do I have until it goes bad??
If it's sealed with an airlock, indefinitely.
If you keep it capped off tightly, it will last six months or more. The alcohol in the mash will keep it from spoiling. Don't believe the myth that it goes bad.
Yup good Q. Like the team say, if your sanitation is good its not really going to change for a while. There is some small concern with autolysis. Where yeast cells die and burst leaving a off flavour. But I wouldn't worry about that too much.
Just remember too, souring is not always a bad thing. Wild yeast normally means extra acid. Acid normally means esterification in the still. But once that starts its not something you would want to let go for too long.
If it's an unboiled barley mash it will start to sour straight after primary fermentation from the natural bacteria in the malt, this is a good thing though as it will produce acids and in turn esters. In general a short fermentation will produce fruity flavors and a longer fermentation will produce waxy flavors.
@@StillIt awesome!! Thank you all so much!!! Love the community!!
literally what i was dealing with yesterday :D tried using bakers yeast for the first time with sugar and.... i killed it XD
@Warrior Son there was lotsa sugar in there. Turbo yeast to the rescue 😁 oddly enough... molasses rum wash was doing fine. Idk
superdupermax probably because there are still lots of nutrients in the molasses. Had lots of trouble with sugar washes as well :p
Jess were do you get your different yeast from? I really struggle to get in Australia!
Hi Jessie do you get Milo hot malt beverage in NZ if so what are your thoughts on using that to make a "whiskey/beer"
I fermented a IPA Beer and I used a hydrometer at the beginning and it was 0. And I tested it in a week and it still is 0! What did I do wrong?
And it is a "Chase"!
THANK YOU!
As a Journeyman(Mister) craftsman in Multiple Crafts, one Must learn to use the tools of any trade Well! I will Learn more! to become a Whiskey Mister?
how long can u keep it on the yeast
as say u broke your leg and cant brew should u decant into 2nd barrel and store it ?
If you are using turbo yeast or some strain that doesnt flocculate as well how much influence does the yeast that is still in suspension have on the hydrometer reading.
I use both a SG meter and a refractometer and compare the two and normally both read the same start to finish
Start sure, but once fermentation has started there is just no way man. Its just not how they work.
Hi Jesse, will a TPW wash Degas itself if left for a month or two? Also can it be left in the primary or does it need to be transferred into a secondary while the natural clearing and degassing process is happening? Cheers.
If your strike temp for grain is at 70 to 74c and your mash sits at 65c for 90min is that normal , or does that strike temp give to many unfermentable sugars?
I LOVE THAT SHIRT!
Great video, couldn't agree more.
Cheers mate
Say I hit my pure grape juice with my yeast and moved ,so never put the sugar to it ,6 months later I seperate the juice away from yeast , remember there was never any sugar added. And now I'm pouring that juice in with about 400 smashed grapes and will add sugar now, should I put fresh yeast in ,even though yeast sat upon that grape juice for 6 months
I forgot to check my starting gravity , does that matter ?
Make a video about aging in the dark, sun, and what abv get some other flavors. And what happends when you let your alcohol open in the air for a few hours.
Intersting idea.
@@StillIt ye i search the internet for answers. why and what you should put in the dark and what not. Till this day cannot find it😀🤣
So if SG has been the same ever since it dropped from the first reading and the air lock bubbles once in a while and you have been fermenting a beer for 14 days does it mean its ready if the SG is the same? Or must one wait for the air lock to stop bubbling
have a apple mead i ran for 4 months of ferment, added in some firmfast/dualfine clarifying agents and for 2 days it has had a wierd central cloud....is this normal?
Sir can we kill wild yeast. And stop yeast fermentation. With any chemical.
What shirt is that? :) Love the design.
thanks mate, timely video. I did a reading on my FTT last night however it was still a little warm when i did the reading ~30 deg, I've adjusted to take this into account and im sitting at 1.0653 for a 190ltr wash, should I a) take the second sample at the same temp or b) just try to hit the guidelines on (mostly) sugar wash ot st or below 1? Cheers and keep up the content mate
Sounds like you have a fair bit of fermentation to go. I would just let it ride for a few days. How big was it when it started? If its all sugar you should get that thing down to bellow 0 (as long as its within your yeast alcohol tolerance).
@@StillIt haha little late night Dyslexia there :) its a TFF not a FTT... about 3kg of grain was used, however being an Aussie and not wanting to follow our Tasman brothers to closely so I only added the wort to the final ferment. My question was more about when I think fermentation is complete should i take my second measurement at 30 deg c or or just take it at room temp and try and get close to or less then 0.
My rum fermentation is complete but my still will not arrive u til one week how long can I wait before I have still it
Question: does it really matter if fermentation is complete? Hypothetically if kick off a mash or wash on a Saturday at 1.07 and I want to strip on the Sunday 8 days later and my SG is 1.006 does it matter? Time is more important that trying to squeeze out another 0.1% potential ABV.
Depends what your goals are and whats important to you. If your time is the most important sure. But if your running by time you will very often loose a whole lot more than 0.1%.
You may also miss out on flavour development depending on your fermentation profile.
IV noticed when mine is does it has a extremely sour and has a huge bite
Thank you Jesse! Great advise! I value and admire your work
As usual awesome video
Cheers mate
Excellent help, thanks 👍
Hey Jesse, can you do a vid on pH management during a ferment. I’ve done a few TPW washes now and follow the recipe but each time have had to manage pH in varying degrees. The 50l batch I have on the go now dropped to 2.8 after about a week. Is sodium bicarbonate better than calcium carbonate and what’s a good level to adjust back too? I think I used 5 teaspoons of bicarb to get it back into the mid 4’s so can you add too much? Does not seem to be much IRT clear guidelines around this subject.
Get some sea shells and boil them in hot water to clean and disinfect them then hang them in in your wash in a mesh bag you will be amazed at whats left when your wash is finished small chips of marble also work.
made 2 pale ales both started at 1.060, one finished at 8 brix the other at 6. i liked the one at 8 better(less dry and less alcohol). i ended the fermentation early on the 8 because of an error, but when i put into plastic bottles to condition ,(which i do all the time and then force carb) the yeast had not settled out and started fermenting. how do you stop fermentation early, but get all the yeast out?
Ok.. so a year ago lol.
You have probably figured a way around it.
But if not, or for others... I'd try heating.
Just heat.(pasteurization) Google the temps and time.. It will cause the yeast to fall out of suspension. Or they have clearing agents, but that will add sulfides (hangovers lol)
What if while making my mash someone had opened my mash container for about 15 mins .. Is my mashed ruined ?
On about day 3
@@stevencouch9281 you are fine.. extra oxygen to grow more yeast cells, I think. Check your hydrometer, and if it doesn't restart, try adding some water to the mash. Likely will be fine, in my experience
Good video, but wish you had gone into some of the reasons why a ferment might stall and ways to mitigate those things.
BTW - you still scare the crap out of me with all the arm waving. Especially when an expensive hydometer is involved.
LOL!
Check this one out mate:
th-cam.com/video/Bcklw_wLFxM/w-d-xo.html
Bit of a older one, but still good info.
Exactly what I want to know, thanks
I thought that was a mushroom in a bottle till i put my glasses on, then i could see it proper....Magic....
Hi brewers! I am in desperate need of help from you experts!
I am experiencing a frustrating stall in the fermentation of 2 of the 3 batches I started a month ago. I will go with the full story and a summary in the end for the lazy helpers!
So.. I am on a quest to find my perfect recipe, I obviously got into frenzy and gave birth to 7 one gallon batches (yes, I know) but with all the advice I got online the only batches I really have hope for are the last 3, the ones I made with all the required equipement, ingredients and attention to the details.
For those 3 batches I wanted to have similar recipes, with some small and pondered differences so that I can start to make experience on what I like and what not.
That said, let’s go straight to the point:
I have these 2 batches started one month ago at 22 BRIX, with a yeast called “grand zin” that claims an ABV of 19%, a temperature range from 15 to 35 C, and stuffs like that, so in theory it should ferment everything (our expected abv is 12ish).
I added 3,5g of tartaric acid, The correctly activated yeast, and Nutristart (similar to fermaid K, so DAP and shells) following TOSNA: 0,6g after 24,48,72h and a week (total 2,4g).
I left it in my house in the corridor, temperature of around 28C (I m in Sardinia, Italy), it s not completely dark but no direct sunlight.
The fermentation started vigorously, and in ten days the BRIXs dropped to 12, then it slowed down a bit (it should be normal) but then after 20 days I noticed it stopped at 8.1 and 8.8 in the two batches respectively. I waited one week and with my despair the refractometer standed still.
We are in range of temperature and under the ABV (should be around 8 at the moment). After some time I needed to try something because this thing was driving me mad, so I tested the pH with some paper strips (pHmeter on its way via amazon) and it seemed a bit acidic. I added 3g of bicarbonate to a gallon batch (I still find so hard to use imperial system argg) and surprisingly it bubbled a lot and seemed to help but three days later BRIX are still the same.
I was desperate, I saw some activity with yeast and not much precipitate so I thought the yeast was still alive, I added in one batch 0,6g of Nutristart (I know it s not recommended but I need to try everything) but nothing.
SUMMARY:
Temperature: 26-28 C
Starting Brix: 22
BRIX after 5 days: 15
BRIX after 20 days: 8
Then stuck at 8.
Yeast “Grand Zin” La food (abv:19%, Temp range 15-35 Celsius)
3,5g tartaric acid at day one
2,4g Nutristart (staggered addition)
Antistuck countermeasures:
-adding bicarbonate: bubbling at the start but no influences on fermentation
-lowering temperature: (to 18C, only tried with one batch) nothing, the yeast precipitated
-adding nutrients: nothing changed
What should I do? Pitching more started yeast? Changing Yeast?
Help!
Wouldn't that be around 14%? What are you brewing? So many variables. Recipe, mash temps?attenuation?That's a long time in primary for beer. I'd bottle and call it good.
I have a wash that started at 1.130 and is now at 1.000, but still bubbling, all be it slowly. I tasted the wash and it's not sweet now, but it's also not sour. Should I leave it for another week or run it?
Leave it for another week
Well explained sir.
Check the SG... when the mash / wash gets to 1.000 it’s done and shouldn’t taste sweet at all .
Unless its a wash that will never get to 1.0 lol
Still It oops ... I wasn’t aware there are mixes that will not get to .000 . I have done rum and sugar type washes and didn’t have a problem getting to .000 with a starting SG of .090
love you.... you just got a little kick back from me
Thank you!
Hi gessi
So I should probably get a hydrometer
Thankyou count dankula
As long as it's fermenting, until it's finished is my rule.
mine's stop the second day after i change pot i add some yeast nothing i heat it up again nothing and last shot i add two spoons of sugar(syrop)and with baby stop mf fer restarted!!I dont know if this is right or wring way but it workrd for me..
Thank You :)
Is it true you have a little sign being made for the front right of the bench. Saying "Your ad can go here" I think so many viewers are fixated on that spot.