As I watch your videos and apply what I’ve learned buy following your advice I find myself searching for more and more in depth answers to the questions that develop after each gallon of wine I’ve made . The understanding my friends and I get from your videos is priceless. Thank you ❤️👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Really good video. Really appreciated that you never spoke about the idea of hitting a target sugar content and only about stalling the fermentation. Strikes me that those who try to hit a specific sugar content are trying to catch a bullet between their teeth. Great when magicians do that on shows or TV but you can't do that with a gun with live ammo.
Thanks! If you slow it down before fully chilling it, you have a shot but the number is not that important to me. I have an idea of where I want the wine to go and I'll do my best to get it there. I can always make fine adjustments later if necessary. I find the biggest issue is stalling too soon. You can always add a little sugar back to dial it in, but it is much harder to go the other way.
Lees can build up on the inside of the glass ribs of the carboy. During the 10:15 racking segment, you can see this happening. If you rotate the carboy a little bit while clearing you can dislodge it.
Anybody else get an algorithm for Mead that led me to this. But how does it actually work for honey? Thank you for your years of knowledge. You are a master. What your doing ( cool ass videos) is very educational. Thanks
So greatful for this video! Only knew about the first 2 methods and none of them would be practical for me. Thanks for the third option. I'll try it as soon as possible. Already lerned a lot from your channel. Thanks again and greetings from Germany :)
I typically like dry wines but I just had an idea! let the wine go to dryness back sweeten then dilute with club soda to get cut the alcohol and get a mildly sparkling wine.
another perfectly timed video, thank you! I will need to rake once again and add SO2 to my grüner veltliner, as despite the cold temperature in my cellar in the last weeks (7C/44F) I noticed a slow formation of bigger bubbles, looking like a wild malolactic string has started its job.
That is probably right. Malolactic fermentation seems to start without any issue on the wines you don't want it in. I usually sulfite my crisp whites as soon as I am sure primary fermentation is complete. For most, that is when it is dry after about three weeks at cool fermentation temps. If you are cold crashing the fermentation it is especially important though. If you were to let it get crystal clear and add potassium sorbate without adequate sulfite, you risk MLF starting after sorbating. In the presence of potassium sorbate, malolactic bacteria will create a geranium smell which is not what you want. I probably should have mentioned that in this video but it's hard to cover every scenario! Lol.
@@TheHomeWinemakingChannel hello! DX I am pretty new to your channel and winemaking, sod you recommend any kind of book or pdf file available on the internet or website where I can learn more about winemaking? if so that would help a lot.
Great info. I'm going to try this with my Gallon of fruit wine I just started. I assume you should stop fermentation at about 11 or 12% abv or so, as the higher the alcohol level gets the dryer and less sweet you will end up with. Thanks for these great informative videos.
Thanks! The ABV is less important than trying to leave the appropriate amount of residual sugar for the wine. Normally for a semi sweet to sweet wine, I am trying to stall around 1.010 to 1.020 on the hydrometer. If the wine is a little more acidic you could aim to leave a little more sugar. If less, you can leave less. If the wine starts with a lot of sugar I'd definitely stall it. If not you may choose to chaptalize (add sugar before fermentation), then cold crash and stall it, or do the easier thing and just let it go dry and back sweeten it.
Hi. I did cold crash my red wine at temp of 28°F. I racked it into another container and added sulfites at 100ppm as suggested in the video. However, I’m not quite sure of the clear thing that you mentioned in the video before bottling. Naturally this wine has a very black color probably a good amount of anthocyanins plus the maceration time of 22 days until it fermented dry. It’s Merlot. Had 25° Brix when I bought it. Now I’d like to ask how could I determine for sure whether the strong black opaque color that I see is indeed from the anthocyanins and not some yeast cells in suspension before proceeding the step with the k sorbate? 😐 Nice video going in depth and explaining quite well.
Love your channel currently starting my wine journey! Can you make a video on how you can wood to your own wine? I own property with oak/pine and would love to add it, even potentially whiskey soaked .
Great information as always! I might give this a shot next season... btw, I see a lot of space in those display racks behind ya! Christmas gifts or holiday celebrations? I'm guessing some bottling/blending of that carboy stash is in your future. :)
Haha thank you! Yes the holidays hits us hard in the wine racks. We just repurposed two big old wine racks from a ski resort in the room where I keep the carboys so we have about 400 bottles more capacity over there. I've been waiting to bottle a lot because of lack of storage but we should be good now! Bottled 84 bottles tonight and a lot more to go.
As always, great video and super helpful information. By chance do you have plans to make a blending video and how you go about choosing what wines you'll blend together?
If it works for mead also, you should try telling the viewer it works with honey differently. That way , the viewer can tell the difference of using honey, and grapes being the base for your must.
The process of stopping the fermentation will be the same for mead. Much of the B-Roll in this video was a mead that went on to be the base of a Pyment.
Great helpful video, I'm a beer home brewer and wanting to ferment apple 🍎 and Feijoa cider from pasteurized fruit. If l fermented out to say 1.020 OG and placed in fridge 🌡️ to make the yeast dorment and the leas fall out of suspension till clear. And rack to a 5 gallon Corny keg and carbonate to 15-20psi from my C02 bottle . Could I effectively stop fermentation as long as keg stays cold in the fridge 🌡️???. Your videos are very helpful 👍.
I have followed the wine making process from your suggestions at 100% and I am at the cold stabilization but do not have the equipment to get store at anything less than 45 degrees. I noticed that the wine is still very cloudy after a week and wondering if this is normal.. note that I did add SO2 at end of fermentation as suggested. Should I be patient to clear or add something ?
The fastest it will start to clear up is usually about 1.5 months after you stall it but usually closer to two or three. If it is saturated with CO2 it will clear up a lot slower. You can degas it a bit if you want to speed things up or just wait it out which is usually what I do.
This is great. Im making sparkling wine. Do you have an approximate timing on when on my second fermentation (in the bottle) the would starve to death? Once i disgorge the sparkling wine and back sweeten i dont want any surviving yeast in the bottle.
I am new to home wine making and am starting off with baby steps - making a gallon of wine from grape juice. I have a question about the cold crashing method. If I don't have a spare fridge or room in the fridge for the jug, is there a way to reliably cold crash in a buck of ice water or something similar. Is the goal to make sure the temperature stays at or below say, 25 degrees or does the temperature need to be precisely some given temperature for some period of time. Also, is it necessary to pasteurize or is the cold crashing / racking method sufficient? Thank you and keep making these great videos!!
I have a question! Once you rack to a carboy, and place the wine back in the fridge for a second round, is there an airlock on it still? Or is it just sealed entirely with a top
My friend stopped fermentation by adding clear alcohol 98% and boosting ABV in same time. But taste and flavor was lost. Question? If we have 15galons or 30liters of grapes juice UK sweet and bitter. After 2weeks of initial fermentation I will add 2kg of sugar to maintain fermentation. How many of 2 weeks cycles can be completed to finish with sweet wine. (I completed 2 and wine is dry) (In same time is strong after 200ml you can feel wine kick) So is there some formula to stop fermentation by adding extra ABV.?
You don't need to stop a fermentation. This technique is for when you DO want to leave residual sugar in the wine rather than ferment it until dry. You can back sweeten which is the easy thing to do, or you can intentionally stall the fermentation which is much trickier but can preserve some fruity flavors that otherwise would be metabolized by the yeast.
Halo The Home Wine Making Chanel... Thank you for making this video. But i have a question: how i calculate ABV with hydrometer after i add some sugar after racking for back sweeten? For example i start fermentation on 1.100 than it's stop at 0.998, than i stop the fermentation and adding some sugar for back sweeten. My hydrometer reed 1.010 ? Thank you
So Im starting a muscat wine tomorrow. Im curious as for cold crashing. After putting in the bucket into the fridge and letting it settle, rack then sulfite. THEN for the 2nd round of cold crashing then racking, how much SO2 ppm one should add? Another 100PPM sounds a lot for the second round.
I use aquamark #9 corks mostly. They will allow wine to age many many years without cork issues. They are natural corks with the pores packed with cork dust so the only thing I'll mention is that once in a while you can get a couple little chunks of cork dust in the first glass you pour. Nomacorks are good if you want to do synthetic. Stay away from the super cheap composite corks unless you plan to drink the wine within a year or two. They won't make it much beyond two years.
I am currently making two lemon wines and I need some help. The first one I started in May. It has not finished yet, let’s just say it’s not completely dry yet. I would like to get a higher alcohol finish on this batch before I stabilize it clear it and bottle it. What or how can I get a higher abv at this stage of the process. The second batch I can’t get it to start fermentation, and I’m not sure why or how to fix it. I really need some help with this one. What do you suggest I’d to fix these two problems??
If it is still bubbling, keep swirling it up and keep it from getting below about 70F. If it has stopped bubbling and is tart then you could add a little more sugar and try to restart the fermentation. I wouldn't recommend more than about 11% ABV on a lemon wine. The one that hasn't started may start if you warm it up to about 80F and keep it there. Make sure there are no preservatives in your lemon juice (sorbate or benzoates). Those will make the fermentation a lot more challenging.
love your channel, is a wide mouth pet carboy ok to use to cold stabilize wine in, also if the wine freezes will it have bad consequences, im thinking of leaving it out in mid 20s temp which may freeze it if it dips into the teens
This is not directly related to the video, but it's something that's been lingering on my mind since a mulled pyment went really well, but lacking some details. Unripe grapes into the most = more tannins? (I like really, really tannic wines.)
What are the little white particles that are bubbling up in the carboy at the end of fermentation? The active fermentation has stopped but these white particles keep circulating
Both yeast and bentonite carry a negative charge and won't be attracted to one another. To specifically drop yeast out more quickly you will want to use a positively charged fining agent like sparkolloid or casein.
i have one doubt,i need low alcohol content wine ,now my hydrometer reading is 1.090,so 2 day after my reading is 1.050 can i Change to secondary Fedamentation Or when the hydrometer reading comes to 0.999 only then change to secondary Fedamentation .
Thank you for this video. My question is, what would be the second best way to stop fermentation? Here in Czechia we use 50 liter carboys and there's no way I could put those in any fridge. It is common here to use K2S2O5, dunno the name in English. What do you think about that?
Yes, they will use jacketed fermentation tanks that have food grade coolant running through the jacket around the tank and a larger chiller system. They can back sweeten which is common outside of California, but in California they are usually shutting down the fermentation.
Hi sir, how to make without yeast non alcoholic sweet red wine, many times I have ph problem,then I add chemicals that's also failure,so this time I didn't add yeast, chemicals , please tell the ingredients sir
If you add a big dose of SO2 while the fermentation is roaring along and the yeast population is high, you add a lot of unnecessary stress to the yeast which increases the likelihood of Hydrogen Sulfide (rotten egg smell). Yeast are naturally very reductive so you aren't particularly worried about oxidation during that week that they are settling. Even just by chilling it you risk H2S to some extent which is why I normally like to use a low or no H2S yeast strain when intentionally stalling like this.
How does one know that a wine has not simultaneously gone through MLF an AF and by adding sorbate it may cause a reaction to cause the wine to have a bad smell?
When using potassium sorbate (sorbic acid), you will always sulfite or test to assure you have adequate free SO2 to prevent microbial activity. If the bacteria can't metabolize the sorbic acid, it should not create the geranium taint. I have never had an issue with it. Most wines you will be sweetening will also be relatively low pH (white wines, fruit wines) which is also a difficult environment for MLF to occur without a lot of encouragement. If you want to know if it has partially occurred you can do a paper chromatography test to look for the presence of lactic acid. Most of the bigger winemaking shops will have them.
It will slow down as the temperature drops and eventually stop once it reaches a level that it is no longer capable of fermenting. Most will stall out in the high 40F range but some of the cold tolerant white wine strains can keep making a few bubbles a little lower.
Under 10C degrees is fine In a fridge its about 5C degrees its even better Unfortunately there are cold resistant yeast in the must so cooling alone wont stop the fermentation only slow it down the combination of cooling and so2 can stop the fermentation at desired alcohol or sweetness level. I advise that you dont stop fermentation under 12% alcohol since alcohol is important for keeping your wine stable and crucial for long shelf life After cooling and so2 addition you should rack and coarse filter your wine in about 2 days so that you stop refermentation from happening. I advise that you only stop fermentation if your must is very sweet like above 24 BRIX so in the end you will have enough alcohol and sweetness in your wine also If you want a sweet wine you should just do like almost all wineries do they just dont advertise it. Let the wine go through fermentation completely then add concentrated must to your dry wine. This way you can make very stable wines without the risk of refermentation. You should note that your wine will only be stable if your ph is under 3,5 you have at least 12 alcohol. You can use commercial yeast to improve stability in smaller batches or add yeast to high volumes of must if you have a cooling system and can keep your temperature at bay When you are preparing for bottling you add the concentrated must, potassium sulfate and set the so2 at the desired level if its not already set. If your wine havent gone through cold stabilization u add metatartaric acid. This way you can prevent tartar buildup for about 6 month to a year When bottling always use a membrane which was designed to use in the wine industry. (0,45micron is most commonly used) if you want your wine to be crystal clear and stay that way buy a winery membrane you can find cheap ones and they may have the same pore size but their retentive ability is very different. You want your wine to be rid of all spolige yeast and bacteria you can buy everything in your local wine shop oncluding the concentrated must hope this helps best whishes
Also you should add these additives only before bottling to an already clear wine Furthermore you dont add potassium sorbatr to a fermenting must because it not only will not stop the fermentation it will ferment along with the must ruining the whole batch also i forgot to mention in order to have a stable wine you need to get rid of the proteins as well using bentonite
You really need a spare fridge or a cold room in your house. I have a canning cellar under my back porch that will keep wine at about 40 through the winter. A winery will usually have a climate controlled room or more often, jacketed tanks with a glycol chiller to pump food grade coolant through the jacket.
You can heat the wine to pasteurize it, but you will also be "cooking" the wine, which can wipe out your fresh fruit character. A "cooked" wine is considered a major wine flaw. There are some wines that are intentionally heated though. In Madiera, this is common, which is why the wine flaw is often described as "maderized". Some Kosher wine, known as mevushal are also heated.
The best way to stress your yeast and produce fusel alcohol is by trying to stop an active fermentation. Adjust your gravity pre-fermentation. Home winemaking 101
Great video. New to the channel so doing a lot of catching up. To speed up the process, can I do .5 micron filtering of the wine and then add the sulfite and sorbate? Or, if still too soon, maybe cold crash for a week, filter then add sulfite/sorbate? I realize the .5 micron filtering won't be precise, especially using pad filter system, but maybe it would remove enough of the active yeast to achieve same effect as cold crashing and racking a few times? Thanks!
Dude don't take it wrong, very useful information but 15 minutes to get to the point? C'mon, at least just mark the section in the video where you give your recommendation.
I have an Italian Merlot from a juice bucket that was started on Nov. 13. Actually, allow me to clarify a little better. It started before the said date as it was slowly fermenting in the bucket at the store, so when it came up to temperature the fermentation was doing rather well. What I failed to do with this one was to splash it around much to add oxygen, and I allowed the natural yeast to do the job rather than adding some. Here's the kicker. It's still fermenting. What do you recommend that I do with it now? Should I keep letting it go at room temperature to finish off, or should I do everything I can to stop the ferment? Since late Nov. The gravity has gone from 1.004 to 0.997 so you can see that it's still trying. I'm worried that keeping it at the warmer temperature is ruining the wine. What do you suggest? Also, there was a film that collected on the side of the fermenter when I racked it to the carboy. It wasn't a slimy film but it left more of a pigment to the sides of the fermenter leaving the bucket a little harder to clean than past wines. Any ideas?
0.997 means it's completely dry and not fermenting anymore..... i made this mistake once when my refractometer was reading wrong i used a heat pad to bring it up to temp but oh boy heating it will only allow fusel alcohols to form basically depending on your original gravity you have basically brewed rocket fuel like i did with a strawberry rhubarb wine the film is like tannins and other sediment which has dropped out, or it has oxidised... have you tasted it ?
@@bobmarley2140 I ended up calling it finished even though it was still producing CO2 bubbles. I put it in a carboy and stuck it in a cooler place. Since then the gravity has continued to drop and now sits at 0.994, and is still producing a little gas. The wine tastes fine, but it's not clearing very well.
@@jimdent351 apologies depending on how your tool was calibrated at 0.994 i'd say yeah call it finished mine also dropped to 0.995 which is when i thought bloody hell its's like liquor, it'll continue to bubble as freshly brewed wine off gasses the trapped c02 and as for the clearing if it's yeast causing the haze and you want no chemicals involved try cold crashing in a really cold garage or your fridge for a day or two if it's pectin and other stuff you could go down the Egg white route but again if the haze doesn't bother you then just drink it !
@@bobmarley2140 Thanks for your response. Have you tried Bentonite clay for pectin haze. I really don't want to use the egg white route. Something about putting an easily perishable substance like egg is a turnoff for me. Thanks.
@@jimdent351 Me neither sounds risky and no sorry i haven't tried it i am fairly new to this and i tend to make natural style wines i generally don't filter or use anything to clear it up, IF you are CERTAIN it is pectin haze just throw in some pectic enzyme and wait it will do the trick albeit slowly because fining and filtering won't do much to remove the pectin
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Your channel is incredibly interesting and informative for the food-science minded person, not just winemakers.
You're a brilliant wine maker, keeping up with your changing hair styles along the way has been interesting!!
Don't worry about asking for subscriptions, we know ur in it to build a wine making community:)
My dad used to stop fermentation by adding brandy or wine moonshine to the batch...it would end up becoming a dessert wine.
How much did he add? (let's say per gallon)
@@muckville9195 I put 1/2 cups to 2/3 cups of Plain Smirnoff per gallon
Plain Smiroff of 40%
Fortified wine.. been a classic in Appalachia’s for ever
As I watch your videos and apply what I’ve learned buy following your advice I find myself searching for more and more in depth answers to the questions that develop after each gallon of wine I’ve made . The understanding my friends and I get from your videos is priceless. Thank you ❤️👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Really good video. Really appreciated that you never spoke about the idea of hitting a target sugar content and only about stalling the fermentation. Strikes me that those who try to hit a specific sugar content are trying to catch a bullet between their teeth. Great when magicians do that on shows or TV but you can't do that with a gun with live ammo.
Thanks! If you slow it down before fully chilling it, you have a shot but the number is not that important to me. I have an idea of where I want the wine to go and I'll do my best to get it there. I can always make fine adjustments later if necessary. I find the biggest issue is stalling too soon. You can always add a little sugar back to dial it in, but it is much harder to go the other way.
You’ve been extremely helpful Rick. I appreciate your input very much
Thanks John!
This was a really fun video! Glad to see more in depth topics
Lees can build up on the inside of the glass ribs of the carboy. During the 10:15 racking segment, you can see this happening. If you rotate the carboy a little bit while clearing you can dislodge it.
answer is at 8:30
Thanks for the timestamp. I was three minutes in and wondering when the relevant info kicked in.
Anybody else get an algorithm for Mead that led me to this. But how does it actually work for honey? Thank you for your years of knowledge. You are a master. What your doing ( cool ass videos) is very educational. Thanks
So greatful for this video! Only knew about the first 2 methods and none of them would be practical for me. Thanks for the third option. I'll try it as soon as possible.
Already lerned a lot from your channel.
Thanks again and greetings from Germany :)
I typically like dry wines but I just had an idea! let the wine go to dryness back sweeten then dilute with club soda to get cut the alcohol and get a mildly sparkling wine.
another perfectly timed video, thank you! I will need to rake once again and add SO2 to my grüner veltliner, as despite the cold temperature in my cellar in the last weeks (7C/44F) I noticed a slow formation of bigger bubbles, looking like a wild malolactic string has started its job.
That is probably right. Malolactic fermentation seems to start without any issue on the wines you don't want it in. I usually sulfite my crisp whites as soon as I am sure primary fermentation is complete. For most, that is when it is dry after about three weeks at cool fermentation temps. If you are cold crashing the fermentation it is especially important though. If you were to let it get crystal clear and add potassium sorbate without adequate sulfite, you risk MLF starting after sorbating. In the presence of potassium sorbate, malolactic bacteria will create a geranium smell which is not what you want. I probably should have mentioned that in this video but it's hard to cover every scenario! Lol.
@@TheHomeWinemakingChannel hello! DX I am pretty new to your channel and winemaking, sod you recommend any kind of book or pdf file available on the internet or website where I can learn more about winemaking? if so that would help a lot.
Appreciated the information... especially that which speaks to the cloudiness in the color of the wine
You've answered all my questions. You are a genius.
Great info. I'm going to try this with my Gallon of fruit wine I just started. I assume you should stop fermentation at about 11 or 12% abv or so, as the higher the alcohol level gets the dryer and less sweet you will end up with. Thanks for these great informative videos.
Thanks! The ABV is less important than trying to leave the appropriate amount of residual sugar for the wine. Normally for a semi sweet to sweet wine, I am trying to stall around 1.010 to 1.020 on the hydrometer. If the wine is a little more acidic you could aim to leave a little more sugar. If less, you can leave less. If the wine starts with a lot of sugar I'd definitely stall it. If not you may choose to chaptalize (add sugar before fermentation), then cold crash and stall it, or do the easier thing and just let it go dry and back sweeten it.
@@TheHomeWinemakingChannel absolutely. Thanks Rick.
Hi. I did cold crash my red wine at temp of 28°F. I racked it into another container and added sulfites at 100ppm as suggested in the video. However, I’m not quite sure of the clear thing that you mentioned in the video before bottling. Naturally this wine has a very black color probably a good amount of anthocyanins plus the maceration time of 22 days until it fermented dry. It’s Merlot. Had 25° Brix when I bought it. Now I’d like to ask how could I determine for sure whether the strong black opaque color that I see is indeed from the anthocyanins and not some yeast cells in suspension before proceeding the step with the k sorbate? 😐 Nice video going in depth and explaining quite well.
Great video Rick. Happy Holidays!!
Thanks Robbi! Happy Holidays to you too!
Super helpful! Love your tips on this channel.
Very fundamental. I appreciate your hard work. Thanks for reassuring ideas.
Love your channel currently starting my wine journey! Can you make a video on how you can wood to your own wine? I own property with oak/pine and would love to add it, even potentially whiskey soaked .
Great information as always! I might give this a shot next season... btw, I see a lot of space in those display racks behind ya! Christmas gifts or holiday celebrations? I'm guessing some bottling/blending of that carboy stash is in your future. :)
Haha thank you! Yes the holidays hits us hard in the wine racks. We just repurposed two big old wine racks from a ski resort in the room where I keep the carboys so we have about 400 bottles more capacity over there. I've been waiting to bottle a lot because of lack of storage but we should be good now! Bottled 84 bottles tonight and a lot more to go.
Is there a step bt step guide for us beginners that explains the steps and timelines? Thank you in advance.
I dont add potassium sorbate so is it okay to cold crash and then back sweeten without adding potassium sorbate
As always, great video and super helpful information. By chance do you have plans to make a blending video and how you go about choosing what wines you'll blend together?
If it works for mead also, you should try telling the viewer it works with honey differently. That way , the viewer can tell the difference of using honey, and grapes being the base for your must.
The process of stopping the fermentation will be the same for mead. Much of the B-Roll in this video was a mead that went on to be the base of a Pyment.
Great helpful video, I'm a beer home brewer and wanting to ferment apple 🍎 and Feijoa cider from pasteurized fruit.
If l fermented out to say 1.020 OG and placed in fridge 🌡️ to make the yeast dorment and the leas fall out of suspension till clear.
And rack to a 5 gallon Corny keg and carbonate to 15-20psi from my C02 bottle . Could I effectively stop fermentation as long as keg stays cold in the fridge 🌡️???.
Your videos are very helpful 👍.
I have followed the wine making process from your suggestions at 100% and I am at the cold stabilization but do not have the equipment to get store at anything less than 45 degrees. I noticed that the wine is still very cloudy after a week and wondering if this is normal.. note that I did add SO2 at end of fermentation as suggested. Should I be patient to clear or add something ?
The fastest it will start to clear up is usually about 1.5 months after you stall it but usually closer to two or three. If it is saturated with CO2 it will clear up a lot slower. You can degas it a bit if you want to speed things up or just wait it out which is usually what I do.
Great video 👌
Okay well I definitely ruined mine by sorbating and sulfiting it early without cold crashing. Is there any recovery? It has the eggy smell
This is great. Im making sparkling wine. Do you have an approximate timing on when on my second fermentation (in the bottle) the would starve to death? Once i disgorge the sparkling wine and back sweeten i dont want any surviving yeast in the bottle.
I am new to home wine making and am starting off with baby steps - making a gallon of wine from grape juice. I have a question about the cold crashing method. If I don't have a spare fridge or room in the fridge for the jug, is there a way to reliably cold crash in a buck of ice water or something similar. Is the goal to make sure the temperature stays at or below say, 25 degrees or does the temperature need to be precisely some given temperature for some period of time. Also, is it necessary to pasteurize or is the cold crashing / racking method sufficient? Thank you and keep making these great videos!!
As long as your keeping it below temp the yeast will flocculate to the bottom of the vessel
Thank you. This is great information.
A good day! Did you learn winemaking from books or did you work at a winery?
Thanks for the video. Did you rack off any lees before chilling, or did you just pour the whole primary ferment into the carboy?
Have you ever made vinegar from your homemade wine? Been wanting to try that.
I have a question!
Once you rack to a carboy, and place the wine back in the fridge for a second round, is there an airlock on it still? Or is it just sealed entirely with a top
My friend stopped fermentation by adding clear alcohol 98% and boosting ABV in same time.
But taste and flavor was lost.
Question?
If we have 15galons or 30liters of grapes juice UK sweet and bitter.
After 2weeks of initial fermentation I will add 2kg of sugar to maintain fermentation.
How many of 2 weeks cycles can be completed to finish with sweet wine.
(I completed 2 and wine is dry)
(In same time is strong after 200ml you can feel wine kick)
So is there some formula to stop fermentation by adding extra ABV.?
Thanks for the detailed information. But wondering why the yeast would work while the sugar level supposedly is low or non-existent
You don't need to stop a fermentation. This technique is for when you DO want to leave residual sugar in the wine rather than ferment it until dry. You can back sweeten which is the easy thing to do, or you can intentionally stall the fermentation which is much trickier but can preserve some fruity flavors that otherwise would be metabolized by the yeast.
Halo The Home Wine Making Chanel... Thank you for making this video. But i have a question: how i calculate ABV with hydrometer after i add some sugar after racking for back sweeten? For example i start fermentation on 1.100 than it's stop at 0.998, than i stop the fermentation and adding some sugar for back sweeten. My hydrometer reed 1.010 ? Thank you
So Im starting a muscat wine tomorrow. Im curious as for cold crashing. After putting in the bucket into the fridge and letting it settle, rack then sulfite. THEN for the 2nd round of cold crashing then racking, how much SO2 ppm one should add? Another 100PPM sounds a lot for the second round.
Hey man, my stuff is freezing at these temperatures! What do I do?
What do you do if your wine comes out to dry to strong?
Can you do a pasteurization process?
Sorry if I missed it in an another video, new sub, but what size/brand corks do you use?
I use aquamark #9 corks mostly. They will allow wine to age many many years without cork issues. They are natural corks with the pores packed with cork dust so the only thing I'll mention is that once in a while you can get a couple little chunks of cork dust in the first glass you pour. Nomacorks are good if you want to do synthetic. Stay away from the super cheap composite corks unless you plan to drink the wine within a year or two. They won't make it much beyond two years.
I am currently making two lemon wines and I need some help. The first one I started in May. It has not finished yet, let’s just say it’s not completely dry yet. I would like to get a higher alcohol finish on this batch before I stabilize it clear it and bottle it. What or how can I get a higher abv
at this stage of the process.
The second batch I can’t get it to start fermentation, and I’m not sure why or how to fix it. I really need some help with this one.
What do you suggest I’d to fix these two problems??
If it is still bubbling, keep swirling it up and keep it from getting below about 70F. If it has stopped bubbling and is tart then you could add a little more sugar and try to restart the fermentation. I wouldn't recommend more than about 11% ABV on a lemon wine. The one that hasn't started may start if you warm it up to about 80F and keep it there. Make sure there are no preservatives in your lemon juice (sorbate or benzoates). Those will make the fermentation a lot more challenging.
love your channel, is a wide mouth pet carboy ok to use to cold stabilize wine in, also if the wine freezes will it have bad consequences, im thinking of leaving it out in mid 20s temp which may freeze it if it dips into the teens
really worth listening to, thanks
You mentioned putting it in the fridge, is that also applicable to red wine?
Hello, this is a great video. Do you have any videos about wild yeast fermentation?
Thank you! I have a wild fermentation video from this Halloween if you go back a couple months.
This is not directly related to the video, but it's something that's been lingering on my mind since a mulled pyment went really well, but lacking some details. Unripe grapes into the most = more tannins? (I like really, really tannic wines.)
Hi. What would be dosage of potassium sorbate in grams per US galon or liter?
What are the little white particles that are bubbling up in the carboy at the end of fermentation? The active fermentation has stopped but these white particles keep circulating
Thanks!
Will Pineaaple guava also produce tartaric acid during fermentation
?
Sir from starting If the wine is left with yeast for 21 days, will the smell of yeast come into the wine?
What is the cloudiness looking stuff when u a racking looks like it is moving downward?
If you don't have a fridge available, can you merely use Bentonite to grab ahold of and drop the yeast?
Both yeast and bentonite carry a negative charge and won't be attracted to one another. To specifically drop yeast out more quickly you will want to use a positively charged fining agent like sparkolloid or casein.
Really quality video ❤
I was taught " too much sugar, too much bite".
Thanks. Do you keep your airlock on? D Does it suck air back in once it gets cold?
Yes, it is not too much of a concern since it is just one cooling cycle, so you will only suck a bubble or two through.
Very helpful. Thanks.
When you say adding sulphite or so2 after first racking, do you mean adding potassium metabisulphite? I’m just little confused.
i have one doubt,i need low alcohol content wine ,now my hydrometer reading is 1.090,so 2 day after my reading is 1.050 can i Change to secondary Fedamentation Or when the hydrometer reading comes to 0.999 only then change to secondary Fedamentation
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Thank you for this video. My question is, what would be the second best way to stop fermentation? Here in Czechia we use 50 liter carboys and there's no way I could put those in any fridge. It is common here to use K2S2O5, dunno the name in English. What do you think about that?
Oh I see now that's the potassium metabisulphite.. so what would be the second best?
just pasteurize it, that stops fermentation as well@@lukmit3729
Is this alSo usable for red wines? Mine are pretty sour so I would like to add sugar. But if I do that it just starts fermenting again...
So if Moscato is sweet and has a lot of residual sugar does that mean they do that same process with it? How do they chill tons of that wine?
Yes, they will use jacketed fermentation tanks that have food grade coolant running through the jacket around the tank and a larger chiller system. They can back sweeten which is common outside of California, but in California they are usually shutting down the fermentation.
Interested to learn thanks
Is heating already fermented wine healthy?
Got to 8 minutes in and still not told how to stop fermentation what a waist of time. Found a different video less than 1 minute long.
Can i pasteurize red wine?
May I ask for metric units please, just while editing give us like temp in °C, or liters, kgs...
Hi sir, how to make without yeast non alcoholic sweet red wine, many times I have ph problem,then I add chemicals that's also failure,so this time I didn't add yeast, chemicals , please tell the ingredients sir
Thanks
Thank you so much
What? Chill the wine for 1 week then add sulphite? Why not do it right at the beginning?
If you add a big dose of SO2 while the fermentation is roaring along and the yeast population is high, you add a lot of unnecessary stress to the yeast which increases the likelihood of Hydrogen Sulfide (rotten egg smell). Yeast are naturally very reductive so you aren't particularly worried about oxidation during that week that they are settling. Even just by chilling it you risk H2S to some extent which is why I normally like to use a low or no H2S yeast strain when intentionally stalling like this.
Will UV light be a better choice to stop yeast?
Great comment did you ever find clarification on it ?
25 degrees Ferronheight would freeze the wine right ??
How does one know that a wine has not simultaneously gone through MLF an AF and by adding sorbate it may cause a reaction to cause the wine to have a bad smell?
When using potassium sorbate (sorbic acid), you will always sulfite or test to assure you have adequate free SO2 to prevent microbial activity. If the bacteria can't metabolize the sorbic acid, it should not create the geranium taint. I have never had an issue with it. Most wines you will be sweetening will also be relatively low pH (white wines, fruit wines) which is also a difficult environment for MLF to occur without a lot of encouragement. If you want to know if it has partially occurred you can do a paper chromatography test to look for the presence of lactic acid. Most of the bigger winemaking shops will have them.
Cc is not available for this video can you help me with this!?
I forgot to thanks for your great videos 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Fridge worked for me i thought there's another way to stop it other than using synthetic chemicals!
Does the yeast stop immediately it goes in the fridge?
It will slow down as the temperature drops and eventually stop once it reaches a level that it is no longer capable of fermenting. Most will stall out in the high 40F range but some of the cold tolerant white wine strains can keep making a few bubbles a little lower.
Under 10C degrees is fine
In a fridge its about 5C degrees its even better
Unfortunately there are cold resistant yeast in the must so cooling alone wont stop the fermentation only slow it down
the combination of cooling and so2 can stop the fermentation at desired alcohol or sweetness level.
I advise that you dont stop fermentation under 12% alcohol since alcohol is important for keeping your wine stable and crucial for long shelf life
After cooling and so2 addition you should rack and coarse filter your wine in about 2 days so that you stop refermentation from happening.
I advise that you only stop fermentation if your must is very sweet like above 24 BRIX so in the end you will have enough alcohol and sweetness in your wine also
If you want a sweet wine you should just do like almost all wineries do they just dont advertise it.
Let the wine go through fermentation completely then add concentrated must to your dry wine.
This way you can make very stable wines without the risk of refermentation.
You should note that your wine will only be stable if your ph is under 3,5 you have at least 12 alcohol. You can use commercial yeast to improve stability in smaller batches or add yeast to high volumes of must if you have a cooling system and can keep your temperature at bay
When you are preparing for bottling you add the concentrated must, potassium sulfate and set the so2 at the desired level if its not already set. If your wine havent gone through cold stabilization u add metatartaric acid. This way you can prevent tartar buildup for about 6 month to a year
When bottling always use a membrane which was designed to use in the wine industry. (0,45micron is most commonly used)
if you want your wine to be crystal clear and stay that way buy a winery membrane
you can find cheap ones and
they may have the same pore size but their retentive ability is very different. You want your wine to be rid of all spolige yeast and bacteria
you can buy everything in your local wine shop oncluding the concentrated must
hope this helps
best whishes
Also you should add these additives only before bottling to an already clear wine
Furthermore you dont add potassium sorbatr to a fermenting must because it not only will not stop the fermentation it will ferment along with the must ruining the whole batch
also i forgot to mention in order to have a stable wine you need to get rid of the proteins as well using bentonite
How can I contact you?
So how can we stop fermentation??? How? How? How?????😮😮😮😮
Hmmmm so what the best to is keep the temp blow the 40 degrees ? Then try using ? What
You really need a spare fridge or a cold room in your house. I have a canning cellar under my back porch that will keep wine at about 40 through the winter. A winery will usually have a climate controlled room or more often, jacketed tanks with a glycol chiller to pump food grade coolant through the jacket.
what if i put it in a microwave oven for a few seconds?
You can heat the wine to pasteurize it, but you will also be "cooking" the wine, which can wipe out your fresh fruit character. A "cooked" wine is considered a major wine flaw. There are some wines that are intentionally heated though. In Madiera, this is common, which is why the wine flaw is often described as "maderized". Some Kosher wine, known as mevushal are also heated.
@@TheHomeWinemakingChannel Ah, ok, thanks for the additional info bro
The best way to stress your yeast and produce fusel alcohol is by trying to stop an active fermentation. Adjust your gravity pre-fermentation. Home winemaking 101
Great video. New to the channel so doing a lot of catching up. To speed up the process, can I do .5 micron filtering of the wine and then add the sulfite and sorbate? Or, if still too soon, maybe cold crash for a week, filter then add sulfite/sorbate? I realize the .5 micron filtering won't be precise, especially using pad filter system, but maybe it would remove enough of the active yeast to achieve same effect as cold crashing and racking a few times? Thanks!
Dude don't take it wrong, very useful information but 15 minutes to get to the point? C'mon, at least just mark the section in the video where you give your recommendation.
Choassup
I have an Italian Merlot from a juice bucket that was started on Nov. 13. Actually, allow me to clarify a little better. It started before the said date as it was slowly fermenting in the bucket at the store, so when it came up to temperature the fermentation was doing rather well. What I failed to do with this one was to splash it around much to add oxygen, and I allowed the natural yeast to do the job rather than adding some.
Here's the kicker. It's still fermenting. What do you recommend that I do with it now? Should I keep letting it go at room temperature to finish off, or should I do everything I can to stop the ferment? Since late Nov. The gravity has gone from 1.004 to 0.997 so you can see that it's still trying. I'm worried that keeping it at the warmer temperature is ruining the wine. What do you suggest?
Also, there was a film that collected on the side of the fermenter when I racked it to the carboy. It wasn't a slimy film but it left more of a pigment to the sides of the fermenter leaving the bucket a little harder to clean than past wines. Any ideas?
0.997 means it's completely dry and not fermenting anymore..... i made this mistake once when my refractometer was reading wrong i used a heat pad to bring it up to temp but oh boy heating it will only allow fusel alcohols to form basically depending on your original gravity you have basically brewed rocket fuel like i did with a strawberry rhubarb wine the film is like tannins and other sediment which has dropped out, or it has oxidised... have you tasted it ?
@@bobmarley2140 I ended up calling it finished even though it was still producing CO2 bubbles. I put it in a carboy and stuck it in a cooler place. Since then the gravity has continued to drop and now sits at 0.994, and is still producing a little gas. The wine tastes fine, but it's not clearing very well.
@@jimdent351 apologies depending on how your tool was calibrated at 0.994 i'd say yeah call it finished mine also dropped to 0.995 which is when i thought bloody hell its's like liquor, it'll continue to bubble as freshly brewed wine off gasses the trapped c02 and as for the clearing if it's yeast causing the haze and you want no chemicals involved try cold crashing in a really cold garage or your fridge for a day or two if it's pectin and other stuff you could go down the Egg white route but again if the haze doesn't bother you then just drink it !
@@bobmarley2140 Thanks for your response. Have you tried Bentonite clay for pectin haze. I really don't want to use the egg white route. Something about putting an easily perishable substance like egg is a turnoff for me. Thanks.
@@jimdent351 Me neither sounds risky and no sorry i haven't tried it i am fairly new to this and i tend to make natural style wines i generally don't filter or use anything to clear it up, IF you are CERTAIN it is pectin haze just throw in some pectic enzyme and wait it will do the trick albeit slowly because fining and filtering won't do much to remove the pectin
Can i have your email id?
you should name the vicio 10 minutes and 15 ways to NOT stop fermentation... Geez man get to what we SHOULD do please!!
Bye