G'day MG, Outstanding attention to detail and a clever way to achieve a worn finish. I'm ex-Air Force and I know that, generally, the cockpit is the scruffiest part of the aircraft, especially single or double seaters from WW2. Even modern fast jets can get a bit grubby with daily use. It's more important for the crews to take care of the bits of the aircraft that keep the pilot(s) alive and get the ordinance on target. 'Housekeeping' is generally way down on the list. Excellent job! I've got the same kit and I'll wait till I see all of your build before I tackle mine. Cheers, and all the best. BH Hobart Tas
Thanks Bill! I've had access to the CF-188s and see how grubby modern jets get. I can bet that WWII stuff in the Pacific or Europe running high tempo were worse for wear. This build is definitely going to have some purists telling me I'm wrong
@@TheModelGuy I know what you mean. Everyone has a right to do their models the way they want to, but for those who bang on about authenticity, I find that, generally speaking, modellers that have not seen aircraft really up close don't have a true picture of what various aircraft look like. Some of it are manufacturers' faults but many modellers make mountain ranges out of rivet lines. Many WW2 carrier based aircraft and certainly early jet age military aircraft had incredibly smooth surfaces. When Howard Hughes got his air speed/course record he did it in a P-38 with a polished, totally smooth rivet surface. Rivets sticking too far up was no good on aircraft exposed to seawater spray etc. Your vintage of Corsair were very smooth aircraft with thick, smooth layers of Navy Blue paint. Cheers, BH
It`s always great to learn things from other modelers, but what I really like about your channel is seeing how much you are improving and aren`t afraid to try new things.
Thanks Dave! That's one thing I keep telling the guys on here that say "I wish I had your skills." I didn't just have them. I kept learning and seeking critique for where I can improve.
Lovely work! I have Tamiya's 1/48 scale Corsair and tug in my stash, and I am looking forward to getting stuck in. As my stash only consists of two kits, there"s a fair chance that'll be quite soon 😁
David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Sunday, 13 October, 2024) Note: I am responding to all three of your posts on this kit. For the sake of simplicity, I am editing my reply to just one missive. I take great delight in watching you build these Tamiya kits. Thanks. Early in your video, you assure us that we can add numerous details with wire of different materials and gauges, CA glue, etc. (You continue this in your second of this series with the hydraulic hoses of the landing gear bays, in round 1:00 of that presentation.) I find all this terribly frustrating: I am NOT the techie type (I am a word nerd, and an aspiring novelist; a classical vocalist; an illustrator, etc.), so I need to know the precise length of each piece, its outside diameter, its starting point, its end point, where to make any bends, what the colours are, where any fasteners or fixtures belong, etc. At round 2:20, you offer an interesting alternative to black basing, for which I am rather dubious: painting even deeper shades (let alone lighter hues or tints) over black can prove difficult to have the intended colour show adequately. Your alternative, NATO Green (I think this also is Forest Green, which the U.S. Army in 1972 began using in place of Olive Drab), would be an excellent shading beneath Zinc Chromate Green or Interior Green. Round 7:30, you address the instrument dials and the clear instrument panel. I would like a process and the means to illuminate the cockpit, especially the dials. Toward this, I would use a relatively small piece of electro-luminescent plastic that with electric current of low voltage glows a bright white (one would need to modify the colour more accurately to match the pale yellow of the incandescent light bulbs of the period). This idea naturally would add its own complexity with needing to wire the model for electricity. One first would have to design the arrangement, to assemble the components, especially those not of the kit, to test each step for function, etc. However, I expect that if one properly executes this approach, its effect would work so well as to be worth the effort. At 11:05, you caution your viewers that 1:32nd-scale still is small enough that working in fine details can be tricksome, in the course of which you refer to your “big mechanic sausage hands”. My own experiences validate your caution: I by contrast am terribly thin (that is a long story! :( SMH), with quite bony fingers on relatively small hands; I can print with a fine ball-point pen small enough (yet very legibly) that many people struggle even to see it, let alone to read it. Yet even I as often as not have varying degrees of difficulty managing small parts, or effecting tiny details. TH-cam “F4U-1A Corsair from Tamiya: Setting the base for heavy aircraft-model weathering” (The Model Guy, Friday, 3 September, 2021) At round 1:50 in your second Corsair video, you mention 3D spark plugs for the P&W Twin Wasp R-2800 engine. As tiny as these look to be, how can one attach a thin wire into the anterior end, inserting it deeply enough to anchor it in place? Also, can one fit the other end of the wire into the starting end on the ring leading from the distributor? At 4:50, you note your dissatisfaction with Tamiya’s featureless interior surface of the open cowl flaps (a view I share with you), making a set of 3D printed actuators that you affixed to each open flap. Another TH-cam channeler, in his video, “Tamiya 1:48 F4U-1D Corsair with Moto-Tug” (rebelsatcloudnine, Tuesday, 16 January, 2024), shows another approach, in which he incorporates into each flap a scratch-built actuator vaguely similar to yours, as well as spring coils roughly 1 mm in diameter and 2 mm in length, set horizontally. I very much would appreciate your assessment of this, please, toward my interest for accuracy. Also, I especially would like for someone to extrapolate his work on the smaller kit to the larger Tamiya kits of the early F4U Corsair USN/USMC Fighter. TH-cam “F4U-1A Corsair Tamiya 1/32 - Let's weather an aircraft model with chipping and oils!” (The Model Guy, Friday, 17 September, 2021) Regarding your third Corsair video: Well, this was appreciably better than I had anticipated. I am one to eschew the more severe weathering, except for the extreme cases. One salient example: a modeller built a replica of a Second World War aircraft that after the war, the French had bought from the DoD for their efforts to retain control of Indochina (Vietnam, and surrounding regions). Years on (in July 1954, the French had left), U.S. soldiers in the late 1960s, on supply convoy escort, whilst hacking their way through the jungle strangling some road winding across a range of squat hills, found a crash of a French-flown, U.S. made, plane that literally was pitted, caked in mud, had tree roots, vinery, foliage, etc., growing all through it, and the like. After they had reported this to their C.O., some DoD historians soon arrived, asking the men to show them the downed warbird. They had a work crew wash off the worst of the gunk, pull it out of the muck, disassemble the wings and the empennage, secure it all in crates, and truck it back to base, where a big transport shipped it back to some museum stateside. Seems to me like a lot of work for mud-soaked, old wreck. After one soldier’s service, he years later, remembering what he first had seen, had built a model representing that.
The easiest way to do those harnesses is to leave the buckles attached to their frame and cut them off when you finish threading the fabric through them.
How interesting. I’m building the same kit (my first attempt at 1/32) and I’m trying some of the same techniques like 2 color chipppimg, oil weathering, and painting insignia. Also like you I watch Pattinson and Doogs for help and inspiration. I’ll come back to this and watch again as I progress with the build. Dude, you did a super job on yours. It’s a great kit.
Thanks Paul, best of luck with your build. 1/32 is a bit harder in the sense you are going to be taking longer on a project then usual. It can be easy to lose your mojo or get bored from looking at the same kit
Here is a request for future : I would love to see an episode of practicalities such as an itemization of your tools etc. , the set up of your workbench and how you clean your airbrush. I have no doubt that you manage all this really efficiently and bunglers like me would greatly benefit from your example! Thank you.
Looking really sharp. I like cross-referencing Tamiya instructions with color callouts from Hasegawa, especially since I use a ton of Mr. Color. C125 is there if you do a lot of IJN cowlings, but NATO black mixed with a bit of sea blue works great. Tamiya’s approach to color is often… “close enough.”
I'm very lazy when it comes to mixing paints. If I can buy a jar of what I need, I'll do it. I have that cowling black and it's a great colour for post shading on Gloss Sea Blue. I'll use Tamiya's call outs as a loose guide but I usually research my own colours.
Love these big Tamiya Corsair kits, I have seven of the -1, -1A, and -1D in the stash total. The only thing that would have made the -1 kit more perfect-er is if they would have included parts for the -2 night fighter version as they did with the 1/48 scale kit. You're off to a great start, looking forward to the next instalment.
@@TheModelGuy A few years back I think AMS Resin was working on a set but a search of Sprue Brothers shows nothing. Close up photos of the real thing show some really impressive detail to the flash hiders on the exhaust pipes.
This is sensational stuff. I have been subscribed for quite a while and while I find your earlier build fantastic I can really notice improvement. You should try to get one of your builds published in a magazine like Meng Air Modeller.
Thanks Sean! One of my goals is to publish an article but that presents a few challenges. It would mean possibly a slower build that doesn't get released to TH-cam until after the article is published. It also means that there would be a gap on the channel. Or two builds going on simultaneously. I'm sure I can figure it out :)
G'day MG, Outstanding attention to detail and a clever way to achieve a worn finish. I'm ex-Air Force and I know that, generally, the cockpit is the scruffiest part of the aircraft, especially single or double seaters from WW2. Even modern fast jets can get a bit grubby with daily use. It's more important for the crews to take care of the bits of the aircraft that keep the pilot(s) alive and get the ordinance on target. 'Housekeeping' is generally way down on the list. Excellent job! I've got the same kit and I'll wait till I see all of your build before I tackle mine. Cheers, and all the best. BH Hobart Tas
Thanks Bill! I've had access to the CF-188s and see how grubby modern jets get. I can bet that WWII stuff in the Pacific or Europe running high tempo were worse for wear. This build is definitely going to have some purists telling me I'm wrong
@@TheModelGuy I know what you mean. Everyone has a right to do their models the way they want to, but for those who bang on about authenticity, I find that, generally speaking, modellers that have not seen aircraft really up close don't have a true picture of what various aircraft look like.
Some of it are manufacturers' faults but many modellers make mountain ranges out of rivet lines. Many WW2 carrier based aircraft and certainly early jet age military aircraft had incredibly smooth surfaces. When Howard Hughes got his air speed/course record he did it in a P-38 with a polished, totally smooth rivet surface. Rivets sticking too far up was no good on aircraft exposed to seawater spray etc. Your vintage of Corsair were very smooth aircraft with thick, smooth layers of Navy Blue paint. Cheers, BH
Very impressive detail work, Tamiya’s cockpit looks exceptionally well done. Looking forward to the next installment
It`s always great to learn things from other modelers, but what I really like about your channel is seeing how much you are improving and aren`t afraid to try new things.
Thanks Dave! That's one thing I keep telling the guys on here that say "I wish I had your skills." I didn't just have them. I kept learning and seeking critique for where I can improve.
Getting ready to build this. Definitely ordered the Barracuda placards and HGW seatbelts
They make the kit! Plus you should have enough decals to do the interior of a second aircraft
Excellent video with wonderful explanations! Judy in Nova Scotia, Canada
Glad you enjoyed it! Are you my old neighbour Judy from Shearwater?
awesome job looking ford two seeing the end result
Very excited to see the next instalment, as always a great video
Well done, nice Cockpit. Greetings from GER
Lovely work! I have Tamiya's 1/48 scale Corsair and tug in my stash, and I am looking forward to getting stuck in. As my stash only consists of two kits, there"s a fair chance that'll be quite soon 😁
Stunning mate. Impressive detail in the cockpit.
The king is back for another excellent build
That is one impressive cockpit, dude. Well executed!
David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Sunday, 13 October, 2024)
Note: I am responding to all three of your posts on this kit. For the sake of simplicity, I am editing my reply to just one missive.
I take great delight in watching you build these Tamiya kits. Thanks.
Early in your video, you assure us that we can add numerous details with wire of different materials and gauges, CA glue, etc. (You continue this in your second of this series with the hydraulic hoses of the landing gear bays, in round 1:00 of that presentation.) I find all this terribly frustrating: I am NOT the techie type (I am a word nerd, and an aspiring novelist; a classical vocalist; an illustrator, etc.), so I need to know the precise length of each piece, its outside diameter, its starting point, its end point, where to make any bends, what the colours are, where any fasteners or fixtures belong, etc.
At round 2:20, you offer an interesting alternative to black basing, for which I am rather dubious: painting even deeper shades (let alone lighter hues or tints) over black can prove difficult to have the intended colour show adequately. Your alternative, NATO Green (I think this also is Forest Green, which the U.S. Army in 1972 began using in place of Olive Drab), would be an excellent shading beneath Zinc Chromate Green or Interior Green.
Round 7:30, you address the instrument dials and the clear instrument panel. I would like a process and the means to illuminate the cockpit, especially the dials. Toward this, I would use a relatively small piece of electro-luminescent plastic that with electric current of low voltage glows a bright white (one would need to modify the colour more accurately to match the pale yellow of the incandescent light bulbs of the period). This idea naturally would add its own complexity with needing to wire the model for electricity. One first would have to design the arrangement, to assemble the components, especially those not of the kit, to test each step for function, etc. However, I expect that if one properly executes this approach, its effect would work so well as to be worth the effort.
At 11:05, you caution your viewers that 1:32nd-scale still is small enough that working in fine details can be tricksome, in the course of which you refer to your “big mechanic sausage hands”. My own experiences validate your caution: I by contrast am terribly thin (that is a long story! :( SMH), with quite bony fingers on relatively small hands; I can print with a fine ball-point pen small enough (yet very legibly) that many people struggle even to see it, let alone to read it. Yet even I as often as not have varying degrees of difficulty managing small parts, or effecting tiny details.
TH-cam “F4U-1A Corsair from Tamiya: Setting the base for heavy aircraft-model weathering” (The Model Guy, Friday, 3 September, 2021)
At round 1:50 in your second Corsair video, you mention 3D spark plugs for the P&W Twin Wasp R-2800 engine. As tiny as these look to be, how can one attach a thin wire into the anterior end, inserting it deeply enough to anchor it in place? Also, can one fit the other end of the wire into the starting end on the ring leading from the distributor?
At 4:50, you note your dissatisfaction with Tamiya’s featureless interior surface of the open cowl flaps (a view I share with you), making a set of 3D printed actuators that you affixed to each open flap. Another TH-cam channeler, in his video, “Tamiya 1:48 F4U-1D Corsair with Moto-Tug” (rebelsatcloudnine, Tuesday, 16 January, 2024), shows another approach, in which he incorporates into each flap a scratch-built actuator vaguely similar to yours, as well as spring coils roughly 1 mm in diameter and 2 mm in length, set horizontally. I very much would appreciate your assessment of this, please, toward my interest for accuracy. Also, I especially would like for someone to extrapolate his work on the smaller kit to the larger Tamiya kits of the early F4U Corsair USN/USMC Fighter.
TH-cam “F4U-1A Corsair Tamiya 1/32 - Let's weather an aircraft model with chipping and oils!” (The Model Guy, Friday, 17 September, 2021)
Regarding your third Corsair video: Well, this was appreciably better than I had anticipated. I am one to eschew the more severe weathering, except for the extreme cases.
One salient example: a modeller built a replica of a Second World War aircraft that after the war, the French had bought from the DoD for their efforts to retain control of Indochina (Vietnam, and surrounding regions). Years on (in July 1954, the French had left), U.S. soldiers in the late 1960s, on supply convoy escort, whilst hacking their way through the jungle strangling some road winding across a range of squat hills, found a crash of a French-flown, U.S. made, plane that literally was pitted, caked in mud, had tree roots, vinery, foliage, etc., growing all through it, and the like. After they had reported this to their C.O., some DoD historians soon arrived, asking the men to show them the downed warbird. They had a work crew wash off the worst of the gunk, pull it out of the muck, disassemble the wings and the empennage, secure it all in crates, and truck it back to base, where a big transport shipped it back to some museum stateside. Seems to me like a lot of work for mud-soaked, old wreck.
After one soldier’s service, he years later, remembering what he first had seen, had built a model representing that.
@@DavidRLentz-b7i thanks David! It is time for me to look at another one :)
The easiest way to do those harnesses is to leave the buckles attached to their frame and cut them off when you finish threading the fabric through them.
I’ll definitely do that next time. Sounds much easier
That’s great - I’ve got this kit, but sitting in the stash! Very look forward to this!
How interesting. I’m building the same kit (my first attempt at 1/32) and I’m trying some of the same techniques like 2 color chipppimg, oil weathering, and painting insignia. Also like you I watch Pattinson and Doogs for help and inspiration. I’ll come back to this and watch again as I progress with the build. Dude, you did a super job on yours. It’s a great kit.
Thanks Paul, best of luck with your build. 1/32 is a bit harder in the sense you are going to be taking longer on a project then usual. It can be easy to lose your mojo or get bored from looking at the same kit
Afternoon sir, that F4 Corsair is looking absolutely fantastic, I look forward to more updates very soon, keep safe and well.
Here is a request for future : I would love to see an episode of practicalities such as an itemization of your tools etc. , the set up of your workbench and how you clean your airbrush. I have no doubt that you manage all this really efficiently and bunglers like me would greatly benefit from your example! Thank you.
Looking really sharp. I like cross-referencing Tamiya instructions with color callouts from Hasegawa, especially since I use a ton of Mr. Color. C125 is there if you do a lot of IJN cowlings, but NATO black mixed with a bit of sea blue works great. Tamiya’s approach to color is often… “close enough.”
I'm very lazy when it comes to mixing paints. If I can buy a jar of what I need, I'll do it. I have that cowling black and it's a great colour for post shading on Gloss Sea Blue. I'll use Tamiya's call outs as a loose guide but I usually research my own colours.
@@TheModelGuy I’ll take that tip on post-shading when I finally get around to doing the Eduard F6F-5 in the stash.
Very very good job,more détail and your Drybrush In the cockpit is beautiful 😍😍👍🏻👍🏻
Use what’s color brushing in cockpit ? White ?
Byeee 👍🏻
*So wonderful and nicely done, perfect cockpit!*
Love this new format
Thanks Steven. It's letting me get more info out for sure.
Love these big Tamiya Corsair kits, I have seven of the -1, -1A, and -1D in the stash total. The only thing that would have made the -1 kit more perfect-er is if they would have included parts for the -2 night fighter version as they did with the 1/48 scale kit.
You're off to a great start, looking forward to the next instalment.
I'm sure that radar gear is available as resin. But yeah it should have been included.
I'd like to do a -1D in flight. But that will be a few years
@@TheModelGuy A few years back I think AMS Resin was working on a set but a search of Sprue Brothers shows nothing. Close up photos of the real thing show some really impressive detail to the flash hiders on the exhaust pipes.
Nice stuff! You mentioned hair spray? I’m new to modelling. Please explain the hair spray. Thanks!
Also, what sort of precautions do you take for things like respiratory protection etc.? Thank you.
This is sensational stuff. I have been subscribed for quite a while and while I find your earlier build fantastic I can really notice improvement. You should try to get one of your builds published in a magazine like Meng Air Modeller.
Thanks Sean! One of my goals is to publish an article but that presents a few challenges. It would mean possibly a slower build that doesn't get released to TH-cam until after the article is published. It also means that there would be a gap on the channel. Or two builds going on simultaneously. I'm sure I can figure it out :)
That flare gun!!..just kidding..great finish overall
The zero color thing? It all depends on the model and the year. Sometimes it's a blue metallic color sometimes it is black.
Awesome!
yo yo yo
Hey you didn't sleep through it :)
Lick the first part of your video I love how you do your work as you really inspire me to do my one it's the revel one
Uhm, you’re wearing nitrile gloves while glueing but not painting? I think you’ve got it backwards! ; )
I'll wear them for painting as well. I'm not very consistent though.