I'm really interested in building one of these with my family. What tool were you using to measure each stud length? Why not just hit the top with a laser and shim for level with all studs the same length? I've framed stuff growing up with my dad, and he was pretty old-school, we're talking Larry Haun type of stuff 😆 I'm not up on some of the newer tools.
Seems like it would be a good idea to knock out the corner post girt nailers before the foam guy comes in. That looked annoying having to excavate a pocket, and probably not great for the foam either. I'm assuming you're probably going to touch that up with a froth-pak or something before covering the cavity, right?
It gets really tough for foamer to do a good job when you add a bunch of framing in his way. I find they do a much better job with an open wall to work with. We use only closed cell spray foam so cutting some out does not affect the performance as long as you don’t cut too much out. It’s always a lot thicker nexts to the columns so even where I notch some out it’s a minimum of 3”. I’m very careful and make sure we do touch ups if necessary.
@@MrPostFrame Hmm, I thought I read somewhere that a significant portion of CCSF's vapor barrier quality was in the extra dense skin that develops. I can't seem to pose the correct question to Google to find information about that again, so I might just be misremembering, regurgitating bad data, or just completely talking out of my backside. Still, I wouldn't think most installers would have any trouble spraying around that one extra board. It's kind of like an extra large California-Corner. Actually, I did just think of something else. I went back through some of the earlier videos for the Solo Build to see if I could spot the answer, but didn't see it. Did you add any pieces of insulation between the exterior girts in front of the posts? Seems like a tough spot to get spray foam into, especially on the corners. Could be an interesting experiment on the next build: knock out a couple small mock-ups using scraps for a post on a regular straight wall section and another for a corner post section and have the foam installer spray them like they do the rest of the building, then pull it apart just to see what it looks like. See if there are any air gaps between the two sides.
We fill that with spray foam. He starts on one side sprays it, lets it cure and then hits it from the opposite side. I have taken metal off to see and it fills well. Even in the corners.
@@MrPostFrame hmm, ok. I figured CCSF would have trouble expanding 2.25 inches (half a post), let alone 6 inches in the corners (full post plus girt). The way you put that statement makes me think I've either missed this or have forgotten you've already posted this in one of your previous videos on a previous build. If so, sorry.
I nail them. They get attached to the vertical columns. In the corners I attach vertical 2x4 nailers with 6” #14 structural screws to nail the endwall girts to.
If cost wasn’t a factor I would buy all lsl framing lumber. Perfectly straight and very strong and then I would still have the ability to easily cut and notch all my framing as necessary.
Finally, the parts I want. Interior build in. Thx.
Thank you for the video I didn't realize you were so fast very good thank you
No problem 😊
Yes ,good stuff.love learning from you . Thanks. 💪👍
Thx for the content, the lack of knee pads is killing me. 😳😁
Great video, thank you. 👀👀
This is gold
Unbelievable ❤
I score my bottom plates as well. But I cut on the bottom of the plate so my cut is on the top and my blade doesn't hit the floor.
I'm really interested in building one of these with my family. What tool were you using to measure each stud length? Why not just hit the top with a laser and shim for level with all studs the same length? I've framed stuff growing up with my dad, and he was pretty old-school, we're talking Larry Haun type of stuff 😆 I'm not up on some of the newer tools.
I thought there was something you put on the bottom of the wood of the walls?
I like ‘shooting the grade’ for a level top plate. So, do you cut each stud to the adjusted length, then?
Yes I do.
If you have run in floor radiant heat do you anchor your interior walls the same way to the floor?
Seems like it would be a good idea to knock out the corner post girt nailers before the foam guy comes in. That looked annoying having to excavate a pocket, and probably not great for the foam either. I'm assuming you're probably going to touch that up with a froth-pak or something before covering the cavity, right?
It gets really tough for foamer to do a good job when you add a bunch of framing in his way. I find they do a much better job with an open wall to work with. We use only closed cell spray foam so cutting some out does not affect the performance as long as you don’t cut too much out. It’s always a lot thicker nexts to the columns so even where I notch some out it’s a minimum of 3”. I’m very careful and make sure we do touch ups if necessary.
@@MrPostFrame Hmm, I thought I read somewhere that a significant portion of CCSF's vapor barrier quality was in the extra dense skin that develops. I can't seem to pose the correct question to Google to find information about that again, so I might just be misremembering, regurgitating bad data, or just completely talking out of my backside. Still, I wouldn't think most installers would have any trouble spraying around that one extra board. It's kind of like an extra large California-Corner.
Actually, I did just think of something else. I went back through some of the earlier videos for the Solo Build to see if I could spot the answer, but didn't see it. Did you add any pieces of insulation between the exterior girts in front of the posts? Seems like a tough spot to get spray foam into, especially on the corners. Could be an interesting experiment on the next build: knock out a couple small mock-ups using scraps for a post on a regular straight wall section and another for a corner post section and have the foam installer spray them like they do the rest of the building, then pull it apart just to see what it looks like. See if there are any air gaps between the two sides.
We fill that with spray foam. He starts on one side sprays it, lets it cure and then hits it from the opposite side. I have taken metal off to see and it fills well. Even in the corners.
@@MrPostFrame hmm, ok. I figured CCSF would have trouble expanding 2.25 inches (half a post), let alone 6 inches in the corners (full post plus girt). The way you put that statement makes me think I've either missed this or have forgotten you've already posted this in one of your previous videos on a previous build. If so, sorry.
What is the 3 2x4 nailed together in the shape of a U that you were using in the walls and what is its purpose?
That is where a perpendicular wall will tie in. That way I will have a nailer on each side for drywall.
What screws are you using to attach your girts to your exterior walls? It looks like they’re being attached to metal vertical studs?
I nail them. They get attached to the vertical columns. In the corners I attach vertical 2x4 nailers with 6” #14 structural screws to nail the endwall girts to.
@ got it. So your vertical columns are wood not metal?
Metal vs Wood
interior framing?
(If cost was not a factor.)
If cost wasn’t a factor I would buy all lsl framing lumber. Perfectly straight and very strong and then I would still have the ability to easily cut and notch all my framing as necessary.
Hoe does your exterior steel look after the foam?
Turn your phone off. Check messages later
Not how business works.
@@AlwaysAwesome001 Don't complain that could be your next Job.