That horizontal boring mill sure has been an asset to you! Bet you’re glad you have it!!😊 They almost let it go beyond the ability to be repaired! Good save!
Great to see some big machine action. Best thing is the principles are all scaleable. Everything would still be relevant for smaller jobs taken non by regular home machinists on regular sized machines. Thanks for showing the double offset bushes, a very thoughtful get er done type solution. All the best, Mart in England.
Nice job, you should of changed the oil in the hubs for him whilst there. It might be the only time they have/ will be serviced by the state of greasing program of that axle. Top class work as always & thanks for taking us along the way.
Definitely miss seeing the shop boss around, especially since our two ridgebacks also aged out recently. Nice job, extending the life of a good old piece of machinery.
nice work. we had exactly same problem on our 6800. most likely because we never greased it. probably never even climbed under it or looked at it. just drove it for about 16000 hrs over about 20 years
By looking at the chips, the cast iron was of high quility, don't find that in any more in todays aftermarket junk coming into our country. It's jobs like this that show us Rockies how to fixture large parts, thx Brian.
Nice job Bri !! I'm going back to work on my boring mill tomorrow after a 3 day weekend. The old lady says " you cant wait for long weekends and here you are watching machine shop videos ! Whats wrong with you ?!?" I guess it just gets in your blood. We like to see other peoples set-ups, tooling, procedures and whatever... anyway..thanks for another cool video. Cheers from Canada.
I saw the title I was a bit surprised you had branched out to worm hole repair. But with This Old Tony's discovery of time travel via his lathe, I quickly took your worm hole break through in stride, & thought, 'Way to go, Brian!' So, how is the repair of worm holes going anyway? You didn't mention it at all in your vid; kept talk about bushings & offset. Figured that was code for putting them to the side so you could get to your REAL work, worm hole repair. Good on ya, too, they really need the attention, the Infrastructure Repair Act's galactic inclusion amendment got voted down, again... Well, keep up the good work... and don't be so quiet about your next interstellar discovery. People wanna know!
Like the MacGyver setup, with basically every bloc, and fastener you can imagine! The boring bar seems to be moving up, and down a bit, when it is running...
I had one of those came in my shop and the hole in the top of the housing had gone through the housing .I had a 6150R housing in with less then 3000 hrs.' ! no grease. I build these hole up with nickel and then bore them out
I guess Deere needs to put an auto lube system on these tractors as it seems they rarely get the attention they need. I mean what is another couple thousand dollars for a central lube system on an over $100K tractor?
You can use the bolds of the frame itself to possibly mount an additional bearing. Plus indicate the movement of the boaring bar: it should not deflect when the cut and therefore the hole is uniform and round. You see quite a deflection during the initial cuts
Looks to me like there is not enough bearing surface area for the weight that they are carrying in the environment that there are exposed to. Of course, I'm not trying to keep a constant flow of work for a service center staff to stay busy. Nice save with the offset bushing. it leaves as much original metal where it is needed, and the thicker bushing material is in the spot of the most wear.
My big farm tractor is bigger than this one but has smaller pins. After almost 50 years and 10000hrs they still fit good with hardly any wear but they have been kept greased.
I use to do them that way but now I use copper nickel wire in my bore welder and line bore back to size. It takes half the time setting up a line bore over a mill and is best not to bush a bushing.
@@ValleyWeldingMillwrightService How do you handle the ones with a lot of wear? Most of them I do you would cut the ring clear off boring on center before you could get a true bore to weld back. Had any issues with cracking in use from the cast getting brittle welding on it?
@@bcbloc02 Pre heat and hand weld to get closer to round first. The copper nickel wire I use is for buildup and machining so welds nice without cracks. you have to bore weld in the vertical position that's the only hard part.
Brian HAS welded cast iron. However, this is a load bearing situation and welding alters cast iron's crystalline structure for the worse. The method Brian chose of an offset intermediate sleeve of steel between the OEM cast iron and the inner bronze bushing is STRONG and likely to endure.
@@johnscott2849 I believe It is Nodular iron. I once had one of these axles somebody thought it would be good to weld repair it. After breaking and dulling a pile of cutters I finally wound up having to use grinding stones to get the spots out of it that were harder than hell where the weld and iron blended together. Welding this material will leave you with a hard brittle heat effected zone. That isn't really something I would want on an axle since they are prone to getting shock loads.
How did your set up work on the back bore (the first one you showed) did you push the boring bar through that fixed bearing that was mounted to that angle block?
That is deflection not run out. When you cut with a single point tool it makes it look like run out becuase the force pushing the bar away follows the cutter.
I once had one of these axles somebody thought it would be good to weld repair it. After breaking and dulling a pile of cutters I finally wound up having to use grinding stones to get the spots out of it that were harder than hell where the weld and iron blended together. Welding this material will leave you with a hard brittle heat effected zone. That isn't really something I would want on an axle since they are prone to getting shock loads.
Not on cast iron or ductile iron, You'll crack the fucker if you try to lace in a 1/2 inch of weld or it will crack under load a week or two later. Sleeving or ecc sleeving is a better fix.
I don't understand why anyone puts parts like that on their machine, if it shows up dirty and nasty you get charged a special fee. I would never put a bunch of work into a part just to have it fail again just because there was a defect or crack hidden from years of dirt and build up. I was bitten by that once before, never again. I am not worried about getting the machine dirty, that is what machines are for, I am concerned that I am going to do work and get blamed for something later on. Which is the exact case I had to deal with, part came in dirty as all hell, I suggested cleaning the part (dude said no), I did the repair and 3 months later the part failed because of a hidden crack. I still got the blame and refunded dude his money. If you bring it to my shop, you better stop at a pressure wash booth, the clock on the wall doesn't rotate any slower because I am doing our job and neither does the final bill. I am glad to see you doing the work and getting use out of that machine, but I could never take on the work in that condition.
Your value as a mechanic/machinist is simply fantastic! Bringing them back to life! Right tools and knowledge anything is possible. Always enjoy, thanks.
I’m continually looking forward to Brian’s next video. They are always educational and entertaining, just as this was.
That horizontal boring mill sure has been an asset to you! Bet you’re glad you have it!!😊 They almost let it go beyond the ability to be repaired! Good save!
if one lays on the couch viewing it is almost a vertical mill
@@rickbrandt9559 lol
Great to see some big machine action. Best thing is the principles are all scaleable. Everything would still be relevant for smaller jobs taken non by regular home machinists on regular sized machines. Thanks for showing the double offset bushes, a very thoughtful get er done type solution. All the best, Mart in England.
Paint the grease fittings yellow 💛. See them better. I have a feeling those original grease fittings are close to new.😂😂
Nice job as always 👍...
Lol, Low hour grease zerks! That’s a good one.
Great idea
Brian I have not been getting notifications from your channel. Hope to see more of your work.
Farmer, mechanic, machinist can just get it done, very good
Add engineer.
Nice job, you should of changed the oil in the hubs for him whilst there. It might be the only time they have/ will be serviced by the state of greasing program of that axle. Top class work as always & thanks for taking us along the way.
Nice work 👍. I'm in my 50's and that's the second time in my life I heard " square with the world " 😅
I'm 70, learned "square to the world" from from dad. I've owned a machine shop for 50 years, still use that expression.👍
Always appreciate your imaginative yet simple approach to tough situations. I’ll say it, Brian. You’re a genius. Roll On
Nice work Brian.
I always like seeing the Big HBM Action.
Thanks for sharing.
Have a good evening.
Definitely miss seeing the shop boss around, especially since our two ridgebacks also aged out recently. Nice job, extending the life of a good old piece of machinery.
Sorry to hear that about your pups. I sure do miss Baily. I have other dogs but he was the special one.😊
nice work. we had exactly same problem on our 6800. most likely because we never greased it. probably never even climbed under it or looked at it. just drove it for about 16000 hrs over about 20 years
It happens a lot. When the tractors just work it’s easy to forget they need attention from time to time.
It's amazing to have all the weight of a John Deere axle being bucked around, on a section of material, no bigger than a Pillow Block
By looking at the chips, the cast iron was of high quility, don't find that in any more in todays aftermarket junk coming into our country. It's jobs like this that show us Rockies how to fixture large parts, thx Brian.
Man, you can say that again and again!
Great work Brian, makes total sense boring off centre. Great stuff. Thanks for sharing
Hi Brian ,
Great to see your video. It looks like you saved somebody quite a bit of money. We’re repairing that piece. Good on you.
Nice job. The ole machine still loyal as can be.
Nice job Bri !!
I'm going back to work on my boring mill tomorrow after a 3 day weekend. The old lady says " you cant wait for long weekends and here you are watching machine shop videos ! Whats wrong with you ?!?" I guess it just gets in your blood. We like to see other peoples set-ups, tooling, procedures and whatever... anyway..thanks for another cool video.
Cheers from Canada.
Well it is lots cheaper to watch somebody else make the chips than to make them yourself. 😂
Very clever approach. Win - Win for everyone
I'm aways astounded how clean your customers maintain their equipment when they bring it to your shop for surgery. That offset bushing is sweet.
I also like seeing the G&L in action, wish I had one of those and a place to put it.
Yep you got that right! That'll be the last time these grease! Nice repair Brian
I saw the title I was a bit surprised you had branched out to worm hole repair. But with This Old Tony's discovery of time travel via his lathe, I quickly took your worm hole break through in stride, & thought, 'Way to go, Brian!'
So, how is the repair of worm holes going anyway? You didn't mention it at all in your vid; kept talk about bushings & offset.
Figured that was code for putting them to the side so you could get to your REAL work, worm hole repair. Good on ya, too, they really need the attention, the Infrastructure Repair Act's galactic inclusion amendment got voted down, again...
Well, keep up the good work... and don't be so quiet about your next interstellar discovery. People wanna know!
I have to save time somehow. Wormhole travel seems like a good way.
Another awesome job Brian. You are the man!!!
As usual Brian, great job. Another tractor goes back to work.
Art from Ohio
That far one though 🍳😄 Nice save, they owe you one.
I am just commenting to feed the algorithm Brian. Best Wishes to You and Your Family.
All hail the algorithm
Like the MacGyver setup, with basically every bloc, and fastener you can imagine!
The boring bar seems to be moving up, and down a bit, when it is running...
Loved to see the master at work - thanks for sharing.
I had one of those came in my shop and the hole in the top of the housing had gone through the housing .I had a 6150R housing in with less then 3000 hrs.' ! no grease. I build these hole up with nickel and then bore them out
I guess Deere needs to put an auto lube system on these tractors as it seems they rarely get the attention they need. I mean what is another couple thousand dollars for a central lube system on an over $100K tractor?
I'm thinking a few tubes of grease could have prevented the majoof this repair.
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Another one in the books!
You can use the bolds of the frame itself to possibly mount an additional bearing. Plus indicate the movement of the boaring bar: it should not deflect when the cut and therefore the hole is uniform and round. You see quite a deflection during the initial cuts
I'm guessing this isn't his third rodeo. 🤔
Great discussion and repair
Brain I haven't sead this for a time but I really appreciate your videos.
I appreciate that
Thank you for another great video. Stay safe out there. Cheers
Big jobs on a little mill. :) Another cool project.
Looks to me like there is not enough bearing surface area for the weight that they are carrying in the environment that there are exposed to. Of course, I'm not trying to keep a constant flow of work for a service center staff to stay busy. Nice save with the offset bushing. it leaves as much original metal where it is needed, and the thicker bushing material is in the spot of the most wear.
My big farm tractor is bigger than this one but has smaller pins. After almost 50 years and 10000hrs they still fit good with hardly any wear but they have been kept greased.
Great repair as usual. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks for the late video Brian. Great as always.
My own personal guess would have been that they drilled the zerk ports on the shaft's centerline.
Nice fix Brian 👍🏼👍🏼
👍👍 looks good man... should work good... thanks for sharing...have a good week..see ya next time 👍👍👊
very good job brian..thanks for your time
Another part saved from the grease worms.
Very well done
Nice.
Nice work bud!
Next they’ll leave the tires on. Looks like there is run out on the short bar
Nope it is deflection
Great job Brian!
Bent boring bar?
Great save 👍👍
How long did the set-up take?
Very pragmatic approach ! Congrats !
Looks like a grease optional situation
Fascinating as always. How was the bronze bushing (which looked to be a work of art) retained?. Loktite, press fit or??. Just curious.
It is just press fit
I use to do them that way but now I use copper nickel wire in my bore welder and line bore back to size. It takes half the time setting up a line bore over a mill and is best not to bush a bushing.
@@ValleyWeldingMillwrightService How do you handle the ones with a lot of wear? Most of them I do you would cut the ring clear off boring on center before you could get a true bore to weld back. Had any issues with cracking in use from the cast getting brittle welding on it?
@@bcbloc02 Pre heat and hand weld to get closer to round first. The copper nickel wire I use is for buildup and machining so welds nice without cracks. you have to bore weld in the vertical position that's the only hard part.
Did you think about welding those holes up in the low spots?
Brian HAS welded cast iron. However, this is a load bearing situation and welding alters cast iron's crystalline structure for the worse. The method Brian chose of an offset intermediate sleeve of steel between the OEM cast iron and the inner bronze bushing is STRONG and likely to endure.
@@eliduttman315 It's not cast iron. Cast steel you can tell by the chips.
@@eliduttman315line welding done all the time for just this reason seen it all the time on heavy equipment.
@@johnscott2849 I believe It is Nodular iron. I once had one of these axles somebody thought it would be good to weld repair it. After breaking and dulling a pile of cutters I finally wound up having to use grinding stones to get the spots out of it that were harder than hell where the weld and iron blended together. Welding this material will leave you with a hard brittle heat effected zone. That isn't really something I would want on an axle since they are prone to getting shock loads.
@@bcbloc02 👍
What do you have that allows the boring tip to expand to create the groove in the centre of each steel bush?
A hand held carbide ball burr. 🙂
I was wondering about that too.
It ain't called Baghdad Kentucky windage for nothing. You and your micrometer eyeball.Blessings!
How did your set up work on the back bore (the first one you showed) did you push the boring bar through that fixed bearing that was mounted to that angle block?
Yeah the bar can float in that outer bearing if that is what you are talking about
"Well, they're in there now." - that's what she said.
👍🏻
It seems like you have a ton of runout on that spendle, what is tolerable?
That is deflection not run out. When you cut with a single point tool it makes it look like run out becuase the force pushing the bar away follows the cutter.
👍👍😎👍👍
Typically something worn that bad should get line bore welded then line bore.
Still nice save .
I once had one of these axles somebody thought it would be good to weld repair it. After breaking and dulling a pile of cutters I finally wound up having to use grinding stones to get the spots out of it that were harder than hell where the weld and iron blended together. Welding this material will leave you with a hard brittle heat effected zone. That isn't really something I would want on an axle since they are prone to getting shock loads.
Not on cast iron or ductile iron, You'll crack the fucker if you try to lace in a 1/2 inch of weld or it will crack under load a week or two later.
Sleeving or ecc sleeving is a better fix.
@@procyonia3654 you may wanna take a closer look at the chips.
Grease is sooo much cheaper than steel or iron
that casting is very thin
Still over a half inch thick in the thinnest part. All the load is away from the thin side unless somebody is popping wheelies.
I don't understand why anyone puts parts like that on their machine, if it shows up dirty and nasty you get charged a special fee. I would never put a bunch of work into a part just to have it fail again just because there was a defect or crack hidden from years of dirt and build up. I was bitten by that once before, never again. I am not worried about getting the machine dirty, that is what machines are for, I am concerned that I am going to do work and get blamed for something later on. Which is the exact case I had to deal with, part came in dirty as all hell, I suggested cleaning the part (dude said no), I did the repair and 3 months later the part failed because of a hidden crack. I still got the blame and refunded dude his money. If you bring it to my shop, you better stop at a pressure wash booth, the clock on the wall doesn't rotate any slower because I am doing our job and neither does the final bill. I am glad to see you doing the work and getting use out of that machine, but I could never take on the work in that condition.
very boring except at 5;23 when the world moved
Fine work my friend
Your value as a mechanic/machinist is simply fantastic! Bringing them back to life! Right tools and knowledge anything is possible. Always enjoy, thanks.