I watched this video a few times and I really paid attention doing my best to keep up and I seriously do appreciate that were willing to make this video, you look like you have a great build going on, however after watching this video I hate to admit that I'm more lost than I was before viewing, again I'm not trying to put down your efforts but I'm ducking out and back on the search.
Thanks bro this really really help me out I cut some wires out because there connection I don’t need because I got after market gauges like cooling n oil
Got a 1984 c20 single cab 5.7L w/ 350 in it. So thank you for all the help. I got mine last year, and it’s definitely been a project. Finally got it running right, and now it’s time to play with the wires so this is helpful forsure!
Just a couple of notes; Brown at the alternator is the field since this is a 10SI or 12SI alternator. The Red is B+ system sense. In the audio field, the use an “ANL” fuse in big & small size & amps of 250 - 30. A simple two fuse system protection or distribution center allows for the battery positive to enter, 125 amp + 125 amp fuses are all you need as now the starter and alternator is protected if battery sized cable melts, pinched or in accident. The alternator produces ground thru 3 negative diodes inside end housing, new, clean or painted, run a 4/0 cable w/short bolt from alternator to block or intake. Back of intake can run a 8 AWG to the firewall / bulkhead and double to the frame. The use of cloth harness cover is great but like convoluted split harness cover comes according to temperature. Higher temps under the hood or near headers will cook a cheaper brand. To finish ends or inline splits, wrap a quality electric tape but put a dab of black weatherstrip adhesive on the tag ends. Just little on the last 1/2” will last decades and won’t un-ravel. Tip, use cheap wire ties to build the harness and sacrifice them when covering by cutting. Even aftermarket blocks have thread holes cast to a starter bracket or mechanical fuel pump boss even if it’s not machined. Electric fan(s) can run underneath radiator to be clean, but use relays to control power on terminal 87, 30 can go into 86 to 30 amp fuse. 86 is the relays coil and controlled by a simple on-off snap with push by wax in the coolant jacket. 86 should get B+ by the key on only. Pass thru the grommets and plug into the empty 1/4” acc cavity protected by a 30 fuse or a circuit breaker repurposed for power seats / power windows. If you have cruise control hook up or not, but have the switch, check with a meter to see if it produces a found or positive signal. Key may have to be on for testing. Solder and wrap a wire to operate a 30-40 relay to allow for theft with key only. How? The starter wire is 10 AGW from the key to starter solenoid on the right side of the steering column. With the set button on the left, within reach of one finger of left hand, push one to complete circuit to the other you have to crank or twist. The two are separate but required to complete cranking. Don’t tell anyone. Will this effect cruise or cranking motor while driving? No. The cruise is set as normal as the key is in run. It only make a solenoid click under the dash / or engine bay if desired. Use it or loose it. No one wants to find their GTO, Camaro or Nova missing? Nope. DK, ASE master since 78
👍👍👍👍I needed this video Awesome Awesome Awesome... Been searching for videos/pictures to put my 83 c10 back together and none have explained & showed the detail I needed till your vid
I have 83 I just got it and did some work to it when I put the bratty in it fryed the wire on the firewall the one you pointed to any help you can give be great
@@stevengoodwin9601 if you’re talking about the one that connects to the little power block, sounds like either something’s hooked up wrong or the wire may be too small causing it to get too hot. Check what gauge wire you got. In these old trucks people get to hacking wire and replacing them but some people may not put the right size wire back in. If the wire ain’t too small check and see where the power coming to it from and you can check with a volt meter also too see how much power on it.
Good video. On your choke though, you might want to run it through an oil pressure switch, that way your electric choke heater will not get power until the engine shows oil pressure. The way you have it now, the electric choke heater will get power as soon as the ignition is on.
Thks ahead of time. The ac. Green Wire from compressor where does it connect to I see it goes up along firewall. But then where to trying to check my connection
16:33, “The red that comes off that plug, just loop it around, it reads the current”, I’m trying to get my wiring straightened out, just bought a 85 K truck, it’s been hacked to death. The charging gauge, and the oil pressure gauge is unhooked. I’d like to get those working, I saw the oil pressure sending unit wire on yours, the wire like what u described (tan like color) has been cut and is just hanging loose, the sending unit on mine is also down near the oil filter, looks like a one wire sensor, that wire is also cut, so I assume it’s bad, I got a new one, just need to run the correct wire down. Thanks for the video. My vacuum lines are an equally messed up rats nest. Can’t expect much for 350.00 (that’s what I paid for the truck last week) it runs and drives and 4wd works great, just a lot of little things to fix.
No problem. Hey we all love a good project don’t we?😂 but hope you get it all straightened out man, sounds like you got a good buy for a running truck.
I’ve been thinking I could hook my heater hose up on the plug that’s in the top of my water pump like that one is on my ‘86, and get it out of the way on top of the intake, looks better that way. I just wasn’t sure until I saw that one, thanks 👍🏼
25:02 This is a real debate. Run Manifold, every time. Sorry if you don't agree. Manifold has suction 24/7 and comes from the Intake or below the throttle doors of the carburetor. More speed = More suction. It gets suction from the Pistons. Ported has suction but it's controlled by the throttle doors. And the more the doors are open, the more powerful the suction. Manifold is usually the way to go since it automatically runs your distributor lazyness. It also stops the engine from backfiring if the throttle is depressed fast. Ported is legit, for emission states. It only lazies your distributor when you are throttling. But letting go of the throttle from full speed to no speed could cause backfires.
I really REALLY hope you read this and provide an answer. Which wire comes from the blower and all that and goes into the firewall to control the HVAC dash switch??? My fan won’t turn on at all and I’ve replaced all the relays, blower motor, and resistor and even the dash switch and still nothing.
Thanks for explaining. Quick question on the headers. What make and model if you don’t mind. Have the same set up k10 with 350 and need headers . Thanks
That connector that went to the old distributor what exactly is it for? If I install a distributor on my sbc 305 that is missing that connector and only has 1 plug which goes to the cap will it work fine ?
This break down is on point!!! I really need your help u got my dads C10 after he passed and he used to basically start the truck from the engine bay and I want to correct the wiring do you mind helping? If can give you a call that would be great
Hi I was wondering can you go more into depth about the positive and negative cables Simone stole my battery and they cut both negative and positive terminals , also if you can link where you got them it would be helpful also from what I think you were saying is that the negative goes to the chassis and body and negative goes to alternator and starter
Yes the negative goes to the chassis, body, and engine. To ground to the engine I just went from the frame to a bolt on the starter that bolts to the block.. the positive just goes to the starter and one from the alternator to charge the battery.. that’s all you need as far as the battery. As far as where I got them I’m not sure what you mean. If you’re talking about the connectors it’s just the quick disconnects from advanced auto. I believe they are Die Hard brand.
Thanks. Check all your connections to make sure they’re all good. Also if it’s factory wiring and not replaced with wiring that’s smaller than it calls for.
My truck is a mess. Is a 1986 standard cab c20, factory 454, swapped over to 350 (Not my choice to lose the 454, previous owner took it). The 350 was from a 91 blazer, so it was throttle body. Didn’t want that so I carb swapped it. Now that we have it in, it cranks but has no spark. Wires are everywhere, the previous owner had shit a mess. Half of these plugs aren’t in the right spot, a lot I haven’t found a spot to plug in, it’s terrible. On top of that, my headlights don’t work but the marker lights do. Confusion. Do you have any tips for help?
Well you can follow all the wiring I pointed out in the video and they should match up pretty close. Whatever ones you have left have to narrow it down. If it ain’t getting spark but has a distributor could be the distributor itself or the wires that run to the distributor.
@@Gear_Banger I assumed so, as my dad did it. I’m not electrically inclined in the least, but I will check in the morning once I rewatch the video to see what wires go to it. Thank you
I think it goes into the firewall possibility. I’ll have to go back and look and I’ll let you know exactly. Sorry I missed your comment before. Been getting a lot and didn’t see it.
The starter wiring, can you make a separate video of it, can’t get my 77 to crank on the key, I already replace ignition switch and starter, can’t figure it out
Please help! I’ve got a 1976 Chevy Itasca on a p20 chasis. I can not find out what the green wire is. After I got a new alternator put it my clusters all spin crazily. Any advice? It’s a tbi.
The only green wires in the engine bay of the 70s-80s Chevys that I know if is for the temp sensor and one that goes with the A/C stuff. Think there’s also one that was on some factory distributor plus but not sure
Man, I'm in desperate need of help with my fuel gauge. Can you show me where the wire from the sending unit connects to? My fuel gauge is pegged full and I cant fid the open ground anywhere! I've replaced the sending unit, gauge, check the ground from sending unit to chasis and I just cant find where to plug it into. When my truck was put back together, they cut my fuel gauge wire.
Man I got lost my problem is the starter ,so my starter is old school and when looking at it ,it has a connection series that looks like this ( S + R ) and you described the purple wire goes to the S side ? And the two red wires goes to the R side and the battery got would run to the + which is in the middle ? Correct ?? Man if this is correct I might just be driving my C10 today . If u see anything I mentioned being wrong pls chime in here and truck looks solid , good job . 👍
Yea the purple wire goes to the solenoid side and the two red wires go to the power side which is where your battery hot also runs to from the + side on the battery.
hey bud I have a quick question. I know you're getting hit up left and right but I've been hard at it trying to find out what's wrong with my k10. I have my hot running to my starter from the battery and then a red wire running up to my alternator . Coming out of the alternator I have a red wire running to the relay on the fire wall and and the white wire running to the bulkhead. I also have the purple wire running up from the solenoid of the starter to the bulkhead. I do not have a power wire running from the starter to the relay. iam not getting any power at the key no lights etc. what you think the issue is? the no power to the relay?
Probably so. Try re-routing the wires like I have them connected in the video and that should work. One of the red wires coming from the starter that’s bolted in the same spot as the hot from the battery is probably what feeds power to the inside. A hot from the alternator to the battery is what charges the battery. The purple wire should go straight from the starter to the bulk head because that’s your switched ignition that tells the starter to turn over. The red wires coming from your starter where the battery hot is are power supplies to something else and the wire from your alternator to the bulk head is for the gauge.
There should be a flat like 3 or 4 wire in line connector that comes out of the firewall above the fuse block that the harness for the transmission hooks to. I’d have to go and look at the colors to say what all for sure
I want to know what wires are screwed into the cab to the left of the brake master cylinder. I’m working on a 1984 c20 5.7 350. I got the fuel system fixed and when I ran it a wire started burning and glowing red. The fuses are fine but I think it’s just because the wire is old any ideas?
Which pink one are you talking about. The smaller one I used for electric choke but ended up disconnecting it when I ran Holly sniper. The big one that looks pink goes to the distributor but it’s actually just a faded red.
As long as there’s a wire running from the hot side of your starter or your battery to the junction box it should be ok but I like mine to skip the junction box and go straight over
@@Gear_Banger I meant to say that group of wires that come out on the left side of the motor there’s not very many. I’m wondering what they go to. I bought a 84 and then those wires were hooked up. I didn’t know if that was cruise control or anything like that, if I don’t need them, I want to pull them through the firewall and plug the hole. I’m not gonna put Cruise back on it. It looks like they run inside up to a box up above the glove box. I didn’t think those trucks were computerized that year.
I have a 1984 c10 Scottsdale v6 I need help with finding the ac hoses also my engine bay looks the same as your just missing the compressor and ac hoses I can’t seem to find them
The weird thing is I have my alternator in the driver side and my compressor on the left looking at some photos some of 1984 c10 have the compressor on the driver side and the alternator on the passenger side? I was asking if that is an issue?
Shouldn’t be an issue. Mine originally had the compressor on the driver side and alternator on the passenger side but I switched them when I put my new bracket kit on. You just have to lengthen or shorten some wires… you got a picture you can post?
So i just bought a 1984 C10 yesterday for $900. The ignition is under the hood (the ignition switch failed and apparently replacing it was just too hard). Also a plastic clip completed the circuit to start it😂 i plan to tear into it tomorrow, i was wondering if there was any other way to contact you for questions?
@@Gear_Banger awesome man, I could only skim it earlier. I’ll watch it when I get home today. I’m hoping to find the issue with my truck. It literally has half of the canister missing and one line connected to the far right. Truck runs fairly normal, but I feel like it’s a huge problem.
@@codyparker9649 ahh I gotcha. I pretty much ditched all those lines. Only thing ran to my canister is the tank vent lines. So I didn’t mention any of the other factory EGR stuff.
Minute 21:09 Vacuum Selonoid That is your TCC Selonoid. Torque Converter Lockup. My 84 Truck, With 700R4 Transmission. Requires it. There is a couple videos
New subscriber!!🔥🔥🔥🔥 Now I need help wiring my ignition wire from the fuse box. I bought a 81 GMC CABALLERO 3.8 V6 and the wire from the ignition fuse wasn’t hooked up to anything!! Please help!!
Dear Mr Gear Banger, could you talk about that electrical part on the firewall with a vacuume hose connected to it ? ... On my air filter housing, the GM vacuume hose diagram calls it the Temp A / CL sensor motor. Well i don't have one on my firewall. And I was thinkin that i should get one but i don't see any wire for it comin out of my harness back there on the firewall. i do have a small vacuume hose that i could connect to it. I don't remember it from my past square-body trucks and it might not be on older chevy trucks with manual transmissions. I had to get an old vacuume fitting for the intake for the automatic transmission shift-module and it also had the smaller diameter "Tee" 'd for where-ever it goes according to the emission hoses diagram on the air filter housing. P.S. That's a nice lookin engine.
Sorry I’m just now seeing this for some reason. But if I’m understanding which ones you are referring to, it’s a vacuum solenoid. There’s a couple but I’d have to look and see which is which. I removed them completely on mine since it’s not necessary
Yeah my bus just started on fire I was hiring this guy hes like I didn't think it was OK it will catch on fire and I'm like yeah if you pour gasoline in the carburetor they catch fire sometimes it's normal The type of mechanic are you
@@israelpatton71 I don’t remember exactly because I disconnected all of that and did away with it but it should run from the rear passenger side where the egr is to the carb.
@@Joe-xj2tb you run a hot from your block on the firewall to it then run hot to whatever else you need to run it to. You can basically use the same hot to split off to 2 other things.
This is a great video, and all the points are layer out well. I just have a couple of questions 1. is there a specific wiring kit you’re running on interior AND exterior? 2. Are you gonna make a video on the interior wiring? (Gauges, cigarette lighter, radio, etc.)
I’m running the factory wiring on the exterior other than a couple of wires I needed, for those I just got a roll at the auto parts store. Yes I plan on making a video when I do the interior also because I have some gauges to put in and I’ll make sure all the other wiring is correct. May be a while before the video. Thanks for watching though, hope it helped!
Goodmorning , I love your truck and what you have done with your engine bay, I have a box truck 83 chevy c10 5.7 , can you please send me a photo on how to setup up the lines for the charcoal canaster I have the round one that's is near the right side of the radiator as you stand in front of it, main thing that's going on is the gas fuemes and gas is gushing out of thgas cap as I remove it slow a lot of back pressure is coming out instead of gasses going to the engine to get burned, here what ived done so far I replaced the gas tank and lines and the fuel pump in tank I blue out the lines but its sill has the same problem
Only lines I have ran are the ones I talk about in the video but there are a couple vent lines that’s run from your gas tank to the charcoal canister but you can also put a vent valve on the line or run it to the carburetor ports. Other than those 2 lines I don’t have anything hooked to it and the other outlets are capped off
Why you think the sniper is going to be a lot better? It's really an over glorified carburetor anyway . The only advantage you will get is cold starts and if your choke is set right on that quadrajet they start like a champ in sub zero weather and if you decide to drive to Denver the sniper will do its own adjustments other than that I bet fuel mileage would be better and performance will be better w the quadrajet if it's calibration is correct for that motor ! The sniper is way too expensive and then the work you have to do to run it fuel system wise and in the end it sits on top of the intake and air and fuel go in from it geez what was there before same thing I thought save some money get a old Chevy TBI set up it's the same thing for half the cost and you won't need a high pressure fuel system 15 psi in lieu of 55 Psi
Well I do really like a carburetor but I wanted to try out the sniper and I also wanted better cold starts without having to choke it. Plus with carbs there’s always the possibility of having to adjust it if it gets out of tune and rebuild it. I do love a carb but so far I like the sniper better 🤷♂️
Well considering everything works like it’s supposed to I’d say it’s right. But, Mr make a comment about not knowing what I’m doing without pointing anything out that’s wrong, if you see something that’s not right how about you point it out? I don’t think I know everything so if you know something about the video that I don’t let’s hear it..
I have ground directly from battery to chassis and battery to body and body to chassis. Yea instead of going from chassis to engine I could go from battery to engine but i haven’t had any grounding issues because it’s grounded to the chassis which is grounded directly to the battery 🤷🏼♂️
I watched this video a few times and I really paid attention doing my best to keep up and I seriously do appreciate that were willing to make this video, you look like you have a great build going on, however after watching this video I hate to admit that I'm more lost than I was before viewing, again I'm not trying to put down your efforts but I'm ducking out and back on the search.
I know it ain’t the most professional video lol but good luck to ya
Thank you..... rebuilt a 1980... used old harness which was destroyed...... you saved me
No problem glad it helped. And I appreciate it.
Thanks bro this really really help me out I cut some wires out because there connection I don’t need because I got after market gauges like cooling n oil
No problem man glad it helped
Got a 1984 c20 single cab 5.7L w/ 350 in it. So thank you for all the help. I got mine last year, and it’s definitely been a project. Finally got it running right, and now it’s time to play with the wires so this is helpful forsure!
Glad it helped you out man 👍
Where does the vacuum hose for the torque converter lockup go to
This helped me alot. I appreciate the info. Good exexplanation
Thanks, glad it could help 👍🏼
Thanks man I bought a 79 c10 with a rats nest help a lot
with the red wires helped a lot
Thanks! Glad it could help. I know the feeling 😂
Dude.....thank you soo much for this video. You saved my life with this video. Excellent.
Thanks, glad it could help you out 👍🏼
Just a couple of notes; Brown at the alternator is the field since this is a 10SI or 12SI alternator. The Red is B+ system sense. In the audio field, the use an “ANL” fuse in big & small size & amps of 250 - 30. A simple two fuse system protection or distribution center allows for the battery positive to enter, 125 amp + 125 amp fuses are all you need as now the starter and alternator is protected if battery sized cable melts, pinched or in accident. The alternator produces ground thru 3 negative diodes inside end housing, new, clean or painted, run a 4/0 cable w/short bolt from alternator to block or intake. Back of intake can run a 8 AWG to the firewall / bulkhead and double to the frame. The use of cloth harness cover is great but like convoluted split harness cover comes according to temperature. Higher temps under the hood or near headers will cook a cheaper brand. To finish ends or inline splits, wrap a quality electric tape but put a dab of black weatherstrip adhesive on the tag ends. Just little on the last 1/2” will last decades and won’t un-ravel. Tip, use cheap wire ties to build the harness and sacrifice them when covering by cutting. Even aftermarket blocks have thread holes cast to a starter bracket or mechanical fuel pump boss even if it’s not machined. Electric fan(s) can run underneath radiator to be clean, but use relays to control power on terminal 87, 30 can go into 86 to 30 amp fuse. 86 is the relays coil and controlled by a simple on-off snap with push by wax in the coolant jacket. 86 should get B+ by the key on only. Pass thru the grommets and plug into the empty 1/4” acc cavity protected by a 30 fuse or a circuit breaker repurposed for power seats / power windows.
If you have cruise control hook up or not, but have the switch, check with a meter to see if it produces a found or positive signal. Key may have to be on for testing. Solder and wrap a wire to operate a 30-40 relay to allow for theft with key only. How? The starter wire is 10 AGW from the key to starter solenoid on the right side of the steering column. With the set button on the left, within reach of one finger of left hand, push one to complete circuit to the other you have to crank or twist. The two are separate but required to complete cranking. Don’t tell anyone. Will this effect cruise or cranking motor while driving? No. The cruise is set as normal as the key is in run. It only make a solenoid click under the dash / or engine bay if desired. Use it or loose it. No one wants to find their GTO, Camaro or Nova missing? Nope. DK, ASE master since 78
👍👍👍👍I needed this video Awesome Awesome Awesome... Been searching for videos/pictures to put my 83 c10 back together and none have explained & showed the detail I needed till your vid
Thanks, I’m glad it helped you out 👍🏼
I have 83 I just got it and did some work to it when I put the bratty in it fryed the wire on the firewall the one you pointed to any help you can give be great
Which one on the fire wall?
The one that has the bolt next to break buster
@@stevengoodwin9601 if you’re talking about the one that connects to the little power block, sounds like either something’s hooked up wrong or the wire may be too small causing it to get too hot. Check what gauge wire you got. In these old trucks people get to hacking wire and replacing them but some people may not put the right size wire back in. If the wire ain’t too small check and see where the power coming to it from and you can check with a volt meter also too see how much power on it.
Good info! In the process of a 305 to 350 swap. 85’ c10.
Well hope it helps
@@Gear_Banger what state are you out of?
@@chevhonbota9373 Alabama 👍🏼
I'm going from 305 sbc to 307 olds
Good video. On your choke though, you might want to run it through an oil pressure switch, that way your electric choke heater will not get power until the engine shows oil pressure. The way you have it now, the electric choke heater will get power as soon as the ignition is on.
I installed a Holley sniper unit so I don’t even have the choke anymore lol
Thks ahead of time. The ac. Green Wire from compressor where does it connect to I see it goes up along firewall. But then where to trying to check my connection
16:33, “The red that comes off that plug, just loop it around, it reads the current”, I’m trying to get my wiring straightened out, just bought a 85 K truck, it’s been hacked to death. The charging gauge, and the oil pressure gauge is unhooked. I’d like to get those working, I saw the oil pressure sending unit wire on yours, the wire like what u described (tan like color) has been cut and is just hanging loose, the sending unit on mine is also down near the oil filter, looks like a one wire sensor, that wire is also cut, so I assume it’s bad, I got a new one, just need to run the correct wire down. Thanks for the video. My vacuum lines are an equally messed up rats nest. Can’t expect much for 350.00 (that’s what I paid for the truck last week) it runs and drives and 4wd works great, just a lot of little things to fix.
No problem. Hey we all love a good project don’t we?😂 but hope you get it all straightened out man, sounds like you got a good buy for a running truck.
I’ve been thinking I could hook my heater hose up on the plug that’s in the top of my water pump like that one is on my ‘86, and get it out of the way on top of the intake, looks better that way.
I just wasn’t sure until I saw that one, thanks 👍🏼
No problem man glad it helped you out
@@Gear_Banger
I guess it’s be ok like that and still get warm right? Lol
It has a reverse rotation front end kit on it..
It should. But mine isn’t reverse rotation so can’t say off of personal experience
25:02 This is a real debate. Run Manifold, every time. Sorry if you don't agree.
Manifold has suction 24/7 and comes from the Intake or below the throttle doors of the carburetor. More speed = More suction. It gets suction from the Pistons.
Ported has suction but it's controlled by the throttle doors. And the more the doors are open, the more powerful the suction.
Manifold is usually the way to go since it automatically runs your distributor lazyness. It also stops the engine from backfiring if the throttle is depressed fast.
Ported is legit, for emission states. It only lazies your distributor when you are throttling. But letting go of the throttle from full speed to no speed could cause backfires.
THANK YOU FOR THIS!!!
No problem. Glad it could help 👍🏼
I really REALLY hope you read this and provide an answer. Which wire comes from the blower and all that and goes into the firewall to control the HVAC dash switch??? My fan won’t turn on at all and I’ve replaced all the relays, blower motor, and resistor and even the dash switch and still nothing.
I’m not sure off the top of my head, I’ll have to do some looking and get back to you on it.
Thanks for explaining. Quick question on the headers. What make and model if you don’t mind. Have the same set up k10 with 350 and need headers . Thanks
84 Chevy k10. These are the summit racing brand stainless long tube headers. I have no complaints about them.
That connector that went to the old distributor what exactly is it for? If I install a distributor on my sbc 305 that is missing that connector and only has 1 plug which goes to the cap will it work fine ?
Yes. The factory distributor only had one red wire to the cap if you use an HEI distributor such as this one from MSD it has a 2 wire connector
This break down is on point!!! I really need your help u got my dads C10 after he passed and he used to basically start the truck from the engine bay and I want to correct the wiring do you mind helping? If can give you a call that would be great
Thanks. Yea I’ll help you any way I can
Hi I was wondering can you go more into depth about the positive and negative cables Simone stole my battery and they cut both negative and positive terminals , also if you can link where you got them it would be helpful also from what I think you were saying is that the negative goes to the chassis and body and negative goes to alternator and starter
Yes the negative goes to the chassis, body, and engine. To ground to the engine I just went from the frame to a bolt on the starter that bolts to the block.. the positive just goes to the starter and one from the alternator to charge the battery.. that’s all you need as far as the battery. As far as where I got them I’m not sure what you mean. If you’re talking about the connectors it’s just the quick disconnects from advanced auto. I believe they are Die Hard brand.
Nice video. I have some smoke (wires getting out) at my junction box on the fire wall. Any suggestions?
Thanks. Check all your connections to make sure they’re all good. Also if it’s factory wiring and not replaced with wiring that’s smaller than it calls for.
My truck is a mess. Is a 1986 standard cab c20, factory 454, swapped over to 350 (Not my choice to lose the 454, previous owner took it). The 350 was from a 91 blazer, so it was throttle body. Didn’t want that so I carb swapped it. Now that we have it in, it cranks but has no spark. Wires are everywhere, the previous owner had shit a mess. Half of these plugs aren’t in the right spot, a lot I haven’t found a spot to plug in, it’s terrible. On top of that, my headlights don’t work but the marker lights do. Confusion. Do you have any tips for help?
Well you can follow all the wiring I pointed out in the video and they should match up pretty close. Whatever ones you have left have to narrow it down. If it ain’t getting spark but has a distributor could be the distributor itself or the wires that run to the distributor.
@@Gear_Banger I just replaced the cap and rotor along with the plug wires, so I’m confused
@@SquarebodyLife183 is your wiring to the cap hooked up correctly? Also use a volt meter to check how much power you have going to the cap
@@Gear_Banger I assumed so, as my dad did it. I’m not electrically inclined in the least, but I will check in the morning once I rewatch the video to see what wires go to it. Thank you
@@SquarebodyLife183 no problem, hope you get it figured out
Where does the 3rd positive line go from the battery? I've got a 1979 gmc, with a 1997 454 carborated. Thanks
I think it goes into the firewall possibility. I’ll have to go back and look and I’ll let you know exactly. Sorry I missed your comment before. Been getting a lot and didn’t see it.
Somone cut my fuseable link out from the distribution block. One side goes to the bulk head. Where dose the other wire out of the fuseable link go?
What color is it?
The starter wiring, can you make a separate video of it, can’t get my 77 to crank on the key, I already replace ignition switch and starter, can’t figure it out
Yea I’ll do a separate one sometime. What wires do you have ran to it?
Please help! I’ve got a 1976 Chevy Itasca on a p20 chasis. I can not find out what the green wire is. After I got a new alternator put it my clusters all spin crazily. Any advice? It’s a tbi.
The only green wires in the engine bay of the 70s-80s Chevys that I know if is for the temp sensor and one that goes with the A/C stuff. Think there’s also one that was on some factory distributor plus but not sure
@@Gear_Banger How could I safely test all 3 to see which is correct?
Man, I'm in desperate need of help with my fuel gauge. Can you show me where the wire from the sending unit connects to? My fuel gauge is pegged full and I cant fid the open ground anywhere! I've replaced the sending unit, gauge, check the ground from sending unit to chasis and I just cant find where to plug it into. When my truck was put back together, they cut my fuel gauge wire.
Man idk how I missed your comment but I’ll have to go and trace it down and see where it connects to unless you’ve already got it figured out..
I need help with finding out we’re some wires go bc I have some that’s still unplugged
What you got?
Man I got lost my problem is the starter ,so my starter is old school and when looking at it ,it has a connection series that looks like this ( S + R ) and you described the purple wire goes to the S side ? And the two red wires goes to the R side and the battery got would run to the + which is in the middle ? Correct ?? Man if this is correct I might just be driving my C10 today . If u see anything I mentioned being wrong pls chime in here and truck looks solid , good job . 👍
Yea the purple wire goes to the solenoid side and the two red wires go to the power side which is where your battery hot also runs to from the + side on the battery.
Would you be able to post a link to the Valve covers and breathers attached to them? Thank you
www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-141-921/make/chevrolet
hey bud I have a quick question. I know you're getting hit up left and right but I've been hard at it trying to find out what's wrong with my k10. I have my hot running to my starter from the battery and then a red wire running up to my alternator . Coming out of the alternator I have a red wire running to the relay on the fire wall and and the white wire running to the bulkhead. I also have the purple wire running up from the solenoid of the starter to the bulkhead. I do not have a power wire running from the starter to the relay. iam not getting any power at the key no lights etc. what you think the issue is? the no power to the relay?
Probably so. Try re-routing the wires like I have them connected in the video and that should work. One of the red wires coming from the starter that’s bolted in the same spot as the hot from the battery is probably what feeds power to the inside. A hot from the alternator to the battery is what charges the battery. The purple wire should go straight from the starter to the bulk head because that’s your switched ignition that tells the starter to turn over. The red wires coming from your starter where the battery hot is are power supplies to something else and the wire from your alternator to the bulk head is for the gauge.
@Gear Banger much obliged sir! Have a blessed week and weekend.
@@ianclute393 you too!
Where does the transmission torque converter lockup switch go too???? I have a 700R4 tranny.
There should be a flat like 3 or 4 wire in line connector that comes out of the firewall above the fuse block that the harness for the transmission hooks to. I’d have to go and look at the colors to say what all for sure
I want to know what wires are screwed into the cab to the left of the brake master cylinder. I’m working on a 1984 c20 5.7 350. I got the fuel system fixed and when I ran it a wire started burning and glowing red. The fuses are fine but I think it’s just because the wire is old any ideas?
Too much draw on the wire your letting the smoke out of what foes it run to?
Do you also have the wiring for the rear tail lights reverse lights turn signals
Not yet, gonna hook all that back up soon. Had the rear wiring harness out when I took the bed off.
The pink wire goes hooked up to what? Also the fuse link burned out on my truck and someone just rigged it up I’m trying to get it right
Which pink one are you talking about. The smaller one I used for electric choke but ended up disconnecting it when I ran Holly sniper. The big one that looks pink goes to the distributor but it’s actually just a faded red.
My red wire on my alternator is running to the junction box is that ok?
As long as there’s a wire running from the hot side of your starter or your battery to the junction box it should be ok but I like mine to skip the junction box and go straight over
That brown wire hooks into the plug what about the black coming out of the alternator plug where does the black wire goes
The bigger black wire coming off the alternator terminal goes to the battery positive
On your firewall on the left side of the motor right above your valve cover, there’s a vacuum line going into an electric switch. What is that for?
It’s some sort of solenoid but I ended up unhooking it and a couple more because I don’t need them.
@@Gear_Banger I meant to say that group of wires that come out on the left side of the motor there’s not very many. I’m wondering what they go to. I bought a 84 and then those wires were hooked up. I didn’t know if that was cruise control or anything like that, if I don’t need them, I want to pull them through the firewall and plug the hole. I’m not gonna put Cruise back on it. It looks like they run inside up to a box up above the glove box. I didn’t think those trucks were computerized that year.
as you mentioned green coolant wires what are the other 2 bottom left corner
7.13 what wire goes back
@@nickacosta2320 not sure exactly because it was already ran back there but I’m pretty sure it goes to the fuel sending unit
I am working on my 77 c10 350 small block will a lot of this be similar?
Yea the 70s were a little different but a lot of it should be similar. Just have to go back and look up whatever colors don’t match up
I have a 1984 c10 Scottsdale v6 I need help with finding the ac hoses also my engine bay looks the same as your just missing the compressor and ac hoses I can’t seem to find them
The weird thing is I have my alternator in the driver side and my compressor on the left looking at some photos some of 1984 c10 have the compressor on the driver side and the alternator on the passenger side? I was asking if that is an issue?
Shouldn’t be an issue. Mine originally had the compressor on the driver side and alternator on the passenger side but I switched them when I put my new bracket kit on. You just have to lengthen or shorten some wires… you got a picture you can post?
Original equipment configuration on a 1981-87 GM V8 truck had the A/C compressor on the top, left, driver's side. Alternator always on the top right.
So i just bought a 1984 C10 yesterday for $900. The ignition is under the hood (the ignition switch failed and apparently replacing it was just too hard). Also a plastic clip completed the circuit to start it😂 i plan to tear into it tomorrow, i was wondering if there was any other way to contact you for questions?
I usually interact with people on the comments. But I’ll help if I can.
Do you have a video about just the vacuum lines??
I talk about the vacuum lines at the very end of this video if you wanna fast forward to the end. But no I don’t have a separate one sorry.
@@Gear_Banger awesome man, I could only skim it earlier. I’ll watch it when I get home today. I’m hoping to find the issue with my truck. It literally has half of the canister missing and one line connected to the far right. Truck runs fairly normal, but I feel like it’s a huge problem.
@@codyparker9649 ahh I gotcha. I pretty much ditched all those lines. Only thing ran to my canister is the tank vent lines. So I didn’t mention any of the other factory EGR stuff.
I need vacuum lines too
Minute 21:09
Vacuum Selonoid
That is your TCC Selonoid.
Torque Converter Lockup.
My 84 Truck,
With 700R4 Transmission. Requires it.
There is a couple videos
New subscriber!!🔥🔥🔥🔥 Now I need help wiring my ignition wire from the fuse box. I bought a 81 GMC CABALLERO 3.8 V6 and the wire from the ignition fuse wasn’t hooked up to anything!! Please help!!
The wire coming from the fuse itself?
@@Gear_Banger it looks like it’s connected to a spade connector. It’s labeled “IGN” on the fuse box.
So it’s coming off the ignition on the fuse box but isn’t ran to the actual key ignition?
@@Gear_Banger correct. It’s a wire from the “IGN” spot on the fuse block just laying in my floorboard.
What color is it?
Dear Mr Gear Banger, could you talk about that electrical part on the firewall with a vacuume hose connected to it ? ... On my air filter housing, the GM vacuume hose diagram calls it the Temp A / CL sensor motor. Well i don't have one on my firewall. And I was thinkin that i should get one but i don't see any wire for it comin out of my harness back there on the firewall. i do have a small vacuume hose that i could connect to it. I don't remember it from my past square-body trucks and it might not be on older chevy trucks with manual transmissions. I had to get an old vacuume fitting for the intake for the automatic transmission shift-module and it also had the smaller diameter "Tee" 'd for where-ever it goes according to the emission hoses diagram on the air filter housing. P.S. That's a nice lookin engine.
I'm pretty sure it's to open and close vents for ac things
Sorry I’m just now seeing this for some reason. But if I’m understanding which ones you are referring to, it’s a vacuum solenoid. There’s a couple but I’d have to look and see which is which. I removed them completely on mine since it’s not necessary
Yeah my bus just started on fire I was hiring this guy hes like I didn't think it was OK it will catch on fire and I'm like yeah if you pour gasoline in the carburetor they catch fire sometimes it's normal The type of mechanic are you
Got a 1986 Chevy C10 where is the vacuum line to get valve located
Which valve?
@@Gear_Banger egr valve
@@israelpatton71 I don’t remember exactly because I disconnected all of that and did away with it but it should run from the rear passenger side where the egr is to the carb.
Thanks that is what I thought it's almost like a pvc material right, I found it half of it broke off. Thanks for your time bud.
@@israelpatton71 yes sir pretty much except for the exhaust instead of the crankcase. No problem man
Where did you get those valve covers
Summit racing. I think the brand is proform.
Would it have been just as easy to hide the wires?
In my opinion no. Plus if you have to work on it later it’s easier to get to.
Preciate the reply I have to rewire the whole truck and finding out what's what with this here snakes nest is bia
I'm tryin to find out how that junction block works
@@Joe-xj2tb you run a hot from your block on the firewall to it then run hot to whatever else you need to run it to. You can basically use the same hot to split off to 2 other things.
@@Joe-xj2tb I know the feeling lol.
Where are you located bro
@@Eatcrap85 Alabama 👍🏼
Roll Tide! 😂
what wire is for fuel gauge
Not exactly sure, I’d have to look and see because that’s the only one I didn’t have to run
This is a great video, and all the points are layer out well. I just have a couple of questions
1. is there a specific wiring kit you’re running on interior AND exterior?
2. Are you gonna make a video on the interior wiring? (Gauges, cigarette lighter, radio, etc.)
I’m running the factory wiring on the exterior other than a couple of wires I needed, for those I just got a roll at the auto parts store.
Yes I plan on making a video when I do the interior also because I have some gauges to put in and I’ll make sure all the other wiring is correct. May be a while before the video. Thanks for watching though, hope it helped!
omg dude stay focused , i could not even watch this
Then don’t 🤷🏼♂️
Goodmorning , I love your truck and what you have done with your engine bay, I have a box truck 83 chevy c10 5.7 , can you please send me a photo on how to setup up the lines for the charcoal canaster I have the round one that's is near the right side of the radiator as you stand in front of it, main thing that's going on is the gas fuemes and gas is gushing out of thgas cap as I remove it slow a lot of back pressure is coming out instead of gasses going to the engine to get burned, here what ived done so far I replaced the gas tank and lines and the fuel pump in tank I blue out the lines but its sill has the same problem
thank you
Only lines I have ran are the ones I talk about in the video but there are a couple vent lines that’s run from your gas tank to the charcoal canister but you can also put a vent valve on the line or run it to the carburetor ports. Other than those 2 lines I don’t have anything hooked to it and the other outlets are capped off
Why you think the sniper is going to be a lot better? It's really an over glorified carburetor anyway . The only advantage you will get is cold starts and if your choke is set right on that quadrajet they start like a champ in sub zero weather and if you decide to drive to Denver the sniper will do its own adjustments other than that I bet fuel mileage would be better and performance will be better w the quadrajet if it's calibration is correct for that motor ! The sniper is way too expensive and then the work you have to do to run it fuel system wise and in the end it sits on top of the intake and air and fuel go in from it geez what was there before same thing I thought save some money get a old Chevy TBI set up it's the same thing for half the cost and you won't need a high pressure fuel system 15 psi in lieu of 55 Psi
Well I do really like a carburetor but I wanted to try out the sniper and I also wanted better cold starts without having to choke it. Plus with carbs there’s always the possibility of having to adjust it if it gets out of tune and rebuild it. I do love a carb but so far I like the sniper better 🤷♂️
Need color diagram 1994 gmc 1500 bulk head and Fuze block
images.app.goo.gl/Pd4KepDkmNpWqYeg9
I don’t have a diagram for the 90s models, mine is an 80s but that should give you some good reference on it.
Talking too much. Just go straight to the point. Good video any way
Can you call or text me so I could send you a picture of what I have so I could find out what hoses where i tryed my best.
Sure send me your number and I’ll do what I can
You should know what you are doing, before you try and explain it to others..
Well considering everything works like it’s supposed to I’d say it’s right. But, Mr make a comment about not knowing what I’m doing without pointing anything out that’s wrong, if you see something that’s not right how about you point it out? I don’t think I know everything so if you know something about the video that I don’t let’s hear it..
@@Gear_Bangerthere is an ass in every room
I need hella help
What you got going?
Can i give you my number and show you I got a 86 c10 wires janky
@@frankensteinbuilds7213 sure. The 86 might be a little different if it’s TB fuel injection but we’ll give it a shot.
901 646 3130 it just a 305 but my wires ugly
@@Gear_Banger 1987 was 1st year for the TBI system.
Great video only problem I have is you smacking your lips every other sentence
Sorry bout that I was sick during the video and had a cough drop in
Bro you are so hard to listen to! You start on one thing and right in the middle you go a different direction. Gave me a headache! 😂
@@jamesanthonyclemons8031 well don’t listen then 🤷♂️
Your battery is grounded wrong. Should be grounded to engine. Battery goes to engine, engine to chassis, chassis to frame. You bypassed your engine.
I have ground directly from battery to chassis and battery to body and body to chassis. Yea instead of going from chassis to engine I could go from battery to engine but i haven’t had any grounding issues because it’s grounded to the chassis which is grounded directly to the battery 🤷🏼♂️
This video is confusing as fff
Well wiring ain’t for everybody my man 🤷♂️