excellent! Most contractors stop way short of this techniqe. (skipping on rebar, grids, mesh, overhangs, etc. The only other thing you can do is add a break with galvanized metal, and maybe a groove for a drip edge under the concrete overhang. Nice job.
Excellent work! I have a question. I'm in PA climate area and my chimney looks like it was basically parged - that's gone. The flue liners look surprisingly good for 85 years old! But they only stick up about 2 1/2" above the top of the brick chimney. I would like to pour a nice concrete crown but would need to extend the flues??? Am I thinking this correctly? I'd like a good 3" - 4" crown, sloped of course. So do I just add approx. 6" to the flues? How much are they supposed to rise above the crown? And the mortar joint would be embedded in the new crown. What type mortar do I use to bond the flue sections? Please correct any of the above. Jeff
@@jeffdeluca1153 clay tiles are standard sizes for the most part. You should be able to find a matching flu liner or flu tile. It can then be cut to say 6 inches or whatever size you need we do that very often to be able to create a concrete crown. you typically just want to set it in place with masonry cement. There will be some movement masonry cement is soft so it allows a little bit of movement. All should be good.
@matttafakt that won't hurt. Water tends to creep under the overhang until it accumulates then drip. A drip edge stops the progression back towards chimney. I usually cut mine in afterwards. Every little bit helps up here in new england.
excellent! Most contractors stop way short of this techniqe. (skipping on rebar, grids, mesh, overhangs, etc. The only other thing you can do is add a break with galvanized metal, and maybe a groove for a drip edge under the concrete overhang. Nice job.
We use a 30# tar paper so won't rust out.
The cap should of been at least 4 inches thick,looks good though 4 inches is code in Milwaukee
Lead flashing is OP. It need to be able to expand and contract so you don’t use mortar
was just thinking That, i use lead mate
Looks good. Would like to see what the form looked like up close. Also what kind of paint was used on the clay?
most likely 1200 degree enamel spray paint .. same stuff you can find at the car parts store
Just wondered what the concrete mix is, Thanks
We use a combination of pre-mix and portland to upgrade to 7500 PSI - test concrete.
How much cement to every bag of mortar roughly?
Excellent work! I have a question. I'm in PA climate area and my chimney looks like it was basically parged - that's gone. The flue liners look surprisingly good for 85 years old! But they only stick up about 2 1/2" above the top of the brick chimney. I would like to pour a nice concrete crown but would need to extend the flues??? Am I thinking this correctly? I'd like a good 3" - 4" crown, sloped of course. So do I just add approx. 6" to the flues? How much are they supposed to rise above the crown? And the mortar joint would be embedded in the new crown. What type mortar do I use to bond the flue sections? Please correct any of the above.
Jeff
@@jeffdeluca1153 clay tiles are standard sizes for the most part. You should be able to find a matching flu liner or flu tile. It can then be cut to say 6 inches or whatever size you need we do that very often to be able to create a concrete crown. you typically just want to set it in place with masonry cement. There will be some movement masonry cement is soft so it allows a little bit of movement. All should be good.
Needs a little more overhang. A drip edge would of been nice for a little extra $
no it doesn't .. but 1.5" is ideal
@matttafakt that won't hurt. Water tends to creep under the overhang until it accumulates then drip. A drip edge stops the progression back towards chimney. I usually cut mine in afterwards. Every little bit helps up here in new england.
do it all the same just don't do poured crowns