Hey Doughtinator, how would you tune camber now, without g-force references? Kinda struggling at the moment with camber and toe settings, any tips would be great!
Nicely done, Tuning is what I found the most hassle thing to do in GT7 as not everyone is a setup master (just let me have some fun LOL). Road cars are pain to set up and if not done correctly feels like boats. Hate how suspension set up affects the PP rating, especially when it doesn't translate to a good setup characteristically.
YEA THERE'S A FEW THINGS THAT AFFECT A VEHICLE'S PP, THAT SHOULDN'T.....THEY SHOULD HAVE PUT WAY MORE THOUGHT AND TIME INTO GT7......GT6 WAS GREAT THEN GT SPORT WAS A JOKE......
Hey Doughtinator. I think that those camber setting are ok. But if you don't change the toe angle then, I think that the car will slip. Can you try that and maybe see how that works? Just asking. Great video. Have a great weekend.
Yes, the GT7 toolbox is deep. Many adjustments are interdependent. The resultant Excel chart would be complex & multidimensional. This worthy analysis is useful & is a great starting point for establishing a methodology for finely tuning suspension. I am not qualified to verify the accuracy of the representation of the settings which GT7 exposes to us. We only can experiment as Doughtinator has done for us here, THX.
@@jimmyers3219 tuning in gt7 is like going to kindergarden compared to project cars... I would not consider the tuning in gt7 to be deep, nor realistic. It is pretty much a complete joke in fact.
@@caesarflickerman7047 Thx, I've briefly (between GTS & GT7) played both PC2 & AC. I was impressed not only by the expansive tuning options for cars but also by the options for setting AI competitors vs those exposed in GT.
Adjust suspension from top to bottom. It's in a specific order for a reason. Watch the stability and rotational G force change as you adjust. There is an optimal setting for every car but I believe it all starts with the ride height and roll bars.
@Hagbard Celine Actually I'm sorry but I think this is exactly what you need to do when the track changes. If you have varying elevations increase ride height but by increasing ride height you must change everything else so once again start at the top set right height and adjust everything accordingly
Ride height and roll bars seem to be so car specific that I wouldn’t adjust either until you’ve taken it for a few laps on a few different tracks and felt where it needs to go
Agreed Good point I naturally started doing this and my experience of doing made me tune cars much better than when I first started with gt6 I always had trouble finding grip because I would have unknowingly hard Suspension and tyres I would slide quite a bit but as keeped playing and driving and tuning I began getting better.
Just binged 3 of your videos and they're so well made and explained, good job man! I'm actively trying to get better at GT7 but haven't really gotten into the tuning too much just because I don't fully understand all the settings, but your vids have really given me the confidence to go in and just try stuff. For some cars it just feels like they won't turn no matter when I brake, so I'm definitely trying both the camber and the LSD stuff asap. Thank you!
Nice. Thanks man. The details in this camber video have changed a bit with recent game updates. So these camber stats can’t be checked any more. But most of the time. Lowering the camber helps a bit 👍🏻
Adjusting the front camber angle to a slightly higher negative camber angle helps out more of the outside front tyre on the track and allow higher corner entry speeds and accuracy through corners. Keeping a lower negative angle at the rear helps keep more tyre on the road and improve acceleration on exit. I try to find the sweet spot for each using the specs section of the tuning page. Many of mine that I have dialled in will have camber numbers like 1.8-2.4 front and 0.8-1.9 rear with toes of 0.08-0.18 out at the front and 0.10-0.24 in at the rear. This is based on overall performance but dictated by how they do in the green hell. I urge anyone to try these sorts of numbers and see how they go. I find they make a huge difference
Front 2.5 rear 1.0 need more on the front along with some toe out to help grip, on rear need less as it affects acceleration also each car is different
Subscribed! Looking forward for more videos. Is weird how game is set with the need so little camber. Usually 2.5 is what i run on my track impreza and that made for me a big difference in how agile was the car to turn in tho corners.
Thing is, in real life, slick tires don't work well if you don't change the camber. So if the GT7 model is anything like the real thing, you should do this experiment for every tire again and again. And for every car. But thanks, I will test a bit with it.
Camber is "supposed" to work with the anti roll bars and spring rate (and ride height, downforce etc.). Maybe worth trying mixing arb and camber with a graph? GT7 may be too simplistic though.
Plotting the data on a graph definitely helps find the best setting. I have that same car and set the rear camber to about 0.3-0.5 and the front to about 2. Unless you are turning at very high speeds, which is very unlikely, you dont need the camber to be so low. 1.5-2.5 up front works great. Also dont forget the corvette has ideal weight distribution. Try setting up an awd car or mid engine car and camber affects it differently.
Great video. I would love a video that walks through the order of adjustments you take. For example, do you start with the diff, then ride height, then compression, etc. Or do you start with a part of the suspension first?
Would like to see more about this and the relationship with toe angle! I have found that uneven camber angle works well sometimes like having more in the rear to deal with oversteer.
Also depends on the aero, ride height front vs rear and weight distribution. On my Devil Z i run 3.5 front 2.0 rear and on my Blackbird 930T i run 1,2 front and 3.0 rear.
@@kaedeschulz5422 True.. totally different cars though. Front engine Rear drive will act differently than the RR of the 930. What people also forget is the more severe Camber (ALL you Stance Freaks) you have less Tire footprint on street, hence slower top speed and can affect conditions like rain. But Aero, ride height, and ballast if any can totally affect how the car handles for sure.
I ALWAYS set toe angle to 0 (both front and rear). Changing the toe angle makes the car feel overly stable or unstable no matter what settings you use.
We just tried your suggestions on camber and lsd with a Gr3 mazda pp 768 (Australian supercar spec 652 hp). They improved the car greatly thanks. We also found on a 30 lap x1 trye wear test at Bathurst that the wear was better than we expected. With improved performance we expected increased tyre wear but the wear virtually the same.
AC also by default imho uses too much camber for the most part. Especially in the back of the car. You really have to have a lot of g-force going on or body roll for it to be effective…and for the really twisty tracks “some” camber can be useful. However, I think drivers get lost in the looks and not in the actual physics. They end up using so my camber, they’re losing traction on corner exit as there is less tire on the tarmac.
I wonder how much the weight of the vehicle, where the ballast is, spring frequency pushing down, aero, tires, etc all works in that equation. Btw, I found out that the less force on the tires, the lower grade you need (spring freq). I was driving a 350 with race tires and skidding all over. I switched to sport and then it handled fine. Also, I wonder if force applied to the tires (suspension, average/top speeds, torque, etc) influence the type of tire you use. Meaning, if you’re not putting down the power, or applying force on the tires that would theoretically heat them up, the race slicks down do bag.
It’s all very interesting stuff. I know with updates since this video that some of these things are no longer calculated for PP. so things have changed a bit.
@@Doughtinator Sadly the PP system is a bit broken. 0,01 toe sometimes give you 4 or so more PP same goes for every single point of value change even on the 1,XXX gear number's.
I've gotten rather decent at setting up tunes. Had a buddy over who doesn't game, but bought my dad's camaro ss and is fully building it, but complained soo much about the in game models handling. Tuned the suspension a bit and was miles ahead better.. thanks for the tips Daughty 👍
gran turuismo is such a fucking joke. i regret buying it tbh. even forza fucking 3 had telemetry. you can see suspension travel, tire temps, body damage..... eveything. you cant even get a fucking side view of your car in this stupid game. touted as the best car simulation for true motoring lovers, they cant even get the basics down and then they turn around and nuke the race rewards
Interesting to see the graph plot but that is only at a particular ride height, spring rate, and toe angle. These other factors will affect lateral G in combination with the camber at slightly different angles. It would be interesting to see how each of those relate to each other on a graph...
Yeah 100% agree. Only looking at this in insolation isn’t the best way. But it’s a consistent way. I think most likely you’d want to revisit these numbers again after you’ve refined other areas of your setup. 👍🏻
This is a great series Chris and highly valued, thank you so much for doing this for us. 🙏❤ If you are curious as to why I am so late to This post, it is because I didn't receive a notification, it is an anomaly, but I will ofcourse let you know if it happens again. Like deployed 👍 😎🎙🏎✅
I think camber and toe are the two most important suspension settings. Getting them right together --- another story of itself. I did manage to get a Miata on GT4 to handle like a slot car at one point.
What drives me nuts is that they know everyones been trying to drag race sense day one of all GT’s and we still don’t have slicks and a course that has a drag strip and tire pressure setting…. I mean we have every other type of racing on here why not add it to the game because their is no good drag racing games for PlayStation players….
Okay, I forgot to mention using from the comments in the weight distribution video that I was Driving: McLaren 650S GT3 ‘15 Whale tail I “think” was already there. RS Trial Mountain Alright, the weight adjustment was the same, and I did change the ride height before this, but I will let my buddy do a video on that. I did Camber all the way to 6 and it seemed alright until you hit sharp turns, and a little understeer would happen. (2:00.444) I turned Camber down to 0.5 and there was confident steering, and even less noise than when you add weight (Silent). Sharp turns were no problem and you almost didn’t to shift. I believe this the difference between winning or losing when you go up the ladder…besides your driving ability. (1:59.183) That difference doesn’t seem like much, but that’s the difference of seeing your opponent in the rear view mirror, or not at all on the final turn….when you are almost at the finish line. Consider that before you turn your noses up. My buddy here wins again. I am not sure whether to do braking next, or LDS. I’ll do some more thinking, and decide. …. Just figured it out….again! Braking
This is the part that I hate about GT7, too much info when it comes to car settings, I want to be a sim racer, not a sim mechanic/tuning specialist. Thanks for your help.
Definitely will try this out now with Camaro SS ‘16, mine is very understeery and not really sure about the supercharge option I chose was the high mid-high rpm one, it seemed like the it’s got extreme boost at mid-high rpm, only, and it makes coming out of the corner with back oversteering
Hi mate, watched this video last night and took what you've shown and applied it to 4 problem cars of mine. Shelby GT350, 89 Fairlady, Viper GTS and 81 Porsche 911. Each car felt loose under acceleration and cornering, to a point where they're undriveable. Your advice has pretty much made each of the above cars almost perfect in grip. With the exception of the 911 (still a bit loose), so thanks again and keep up the great work. Will you be doing a video on the stability part of tuning? Thanks.
So the rational G is the amount of Gs where the tyres start to lose traction and therefore tune the camber (negative) as efficient as possible to the suit the track. I would imagine high speed corner with benefit with high negative camber and low speed with low negative camber.
Don't forget that if you lower or raise ride height you also change the camber & toe angle so once you've adjusted ride heights you might need to check the camber & toe
im struggling with Subaru 22b tuning can u make one? i have set to 0 on both camber and toe if i try anything to these settings the car go oversteer in and out of corners i tuning for Nürburgring nordschlife at 670pp currently i am at 6. 47 time trial with lots of mistakes on racing soft tyres. i know the car can do better plz help
Came across this by accident and it’s been a happy accident. I knew what cambers did, but didn’t really have a working knowledge with gt7 on getting them to work in any capacity that I stopped bothering. Will be giving them another try.
In real life it definitely makes a giant difference in the game so far it depends on the car. R34 can't get that to ever get grip no matter what I put on it
Interesting I tried this on a R32 I built and it really helps. Which is interesting since my camber is normally a staggered set up of -2 up front -1.5 rear
My second vid of yours that I've found incredibly helpful, thank you man, I'm trying to dial in the Gr3 GTR at Bathurst so I can learn to tune actual racecars. Most of my time in gt7 is spent in drift builds so I know how to tune them but not normal cars.
IMHO, GT7's plans to show wind direction and speed only assist the F-1 group,where TRACK TEMP for all would be a totally more usefull tool.GPL allowed tire temps to rule the setups, and IT worked there.This comes from 30 years of real life racing,bikes,cars,and Bonneville.
Hi how about doing a video on different power parts comparison and find out what is best for lets say 600 pp or 650 pp and son on. i raced today on Nürburgring nord and i hade audi r8 with best upgrades at 650 pp and there was racers who were flying by me on straights and i was getting up to 270 km or so. then one of my friend said use normal brakes disk and pads that will give you extra pp and i did yes braking was not so good but on my 2nd lap i got use to where to brake and i got 280+ top speed and went from doing 7.57 lap to 7.52
could you please make a vid on how to fix spinning out? when accelerating out a corner or just in general. I have cars like the BMW M4 and aston martin db11 that just handles like crap and spin out so easily yet I love these cars so much irl.
I will make something eventually. But a lot of people are saying that something feels a little off with some cars on acceleration. Using TC1 will help. TC works really well in GT7
hey good video. Bu what about Stability in the setup menu? When you put it from 0.5 to 6 Low speed went from -0.43 to -0.40. So maybe it's also an indication of what to expect?
I’ve been trying to translate this stability number and I’m not 100% sure how it translates. I would assume this is an oversteer/understeer value but I’m not sure how it matches up yet.
@@Doughtinator Well since its a negative value ... it reported the opposite of your test result. Or maybe, another counterintuitive menu. GT series are always like that.
Great video. I have a couple of cars that try to snap the back end when accelerating out of corners. Gonna have a play around with the cambers. I'll edit when I've tried
@@Doughtinator so, yep, it's worked. Gold on Tsukuba mission and Alsace with the Pantera. Such a small tweak that makes such a big difference in rotation of the car. Great work my friend... Kudos
@@Doughtinator Ugh, are you for real? Like what the actual f is Sony up to? I did a video recently on 20 things about GT7 that suck and this is one of them. I can't even start to try and count how many setups there are online from gamers. Now here we are just a year down the road and all that effort was for nothing. I honestly don't understand how they're approaching this game that's been around a quarter century. I mean Gt4 was better than this version and its like 15 years old. The only thing is the newer cars. Nothing else. Anyway, thanks again for your efforts to help idiots like me figure out how to set up a car like some guys online. I really does make all the difference.
Camber makes the tire ride on the edge of the tread. This can drastically change the size and shape of the contact patch. More contact in a turn, but less in a straight line. Another point is yhe roll of the car. Reduce that as well with roll bars. Then fine tune with resonance. This may cause you to change camber as well in order to be in the sweet spot for specific tracks.
Hey, i know that this is already an old video, but i need a hand with tuning for a particular car. *The Ferrari P4.* It was probably the best vintage car i've ever driven on every GT, but now a friend of mine bought it on GT7 and said that it was an awful car to drive. I couldn't believe that PD ruined that marvelous car! Could you try to give that car a good setup to at least make it drivable?
You know what. I just bought and tried that car in GT7. I can. Confirm. It is rubbish! There was an update on Monday that might have helped though. I’ll try it again 👍🏻
Camber should be based mostly on the frequency of high-speed corners... So for example a track like Monza is going to have very little camber as there's only one turn that can be considered high speed.... And Monza also has around three heavy brake zones where you need your wheels to be very flat and very little camber. And in acceleration zones where you need non cambered rear wheels to get maximum traction....Compare that to at track like Mugello, which has very few hard braking zones, but many turns that could be considered medium to high speed so in a track like that you're going to want to have more camber. So it's really track related not so much car related
Guys with recent updates it looks like this data output has been changed.
Im new to GT7, no matter what camber I set, the rotational G is not changing in the car settings - is this normal?
So this video is useless... :(
Hey Doughtinator, how would you tune camber now, without g-force references? Kinda struggling at the moment with camber and toe settings, any tips would be great!
Any chance you'd do an update to this this video? I actually found it to be one of the most helpful videos for me. Improved my grip for sure.
Thanks guys. We are kind of stuck without G force data to easily tune camber. I usually just aim for approx 1.8 ish and leave it. 🤷🏻♂️
Nicely done, Tuning is what I found the most hassle thing to do in GT7 as not everyone is a setup master (just let me have some fun LOL). Road cars are pain to set up and if not done correctly feels like boats. Hate how suspension set up affects the PP rating, especially when it doesn't translate to a good setup characteristically.
Yeah the PP rating is really annoying how it’s currently calculated.
Yeah I noticed the handling on cars is so not realistic when driving stock settings.
YEA THERE'S A FEW THINGS THAT AFFECT A VEHICLE'S PP, THAT SHOULDN'T.....THEY SHOULD HAVE PUT WAY MORE THOUGHT AND TIME INTO GT7......GT6 WAS GREAT THEN GT SPORT WAS A JOKE......
@@theedge5584 ok...
@@PandaCheeks Alright
Hey Doughtinator. I think that those camber setting are ok. But if you don't change the toe angle then, I think that the car will slip. Can you try that and maybe see how that works? Just asking. Great video. Have a great weekend.
Thanks James. Yeah I’m going to investigate toe angles next I think 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator Please do! Can't understand that freaking setting!
Yes, the GT7 toolbox is deep. Many adjustments are interdependent. The resultant Excel chart would be complex & multidimensional.
This worthy analysis is useful & is a great starting point for establishing a methodology for finely tuning suspension. I am not qualified to verify the accuracy of the representation of the settings which GT7 exposes to us. We only can experiment as Doughtinator has done for us here, THX.
@@jimmyers3219 tuning in gt7 is like going to kindergarden compared to project cars...
I would not consider the tuning in gt7 to be deep, nor realistic.
It is pretty much a complete joke in fact.
@@caesarflickerman7047 Thx, I've briefly (between GTS & GT7) played both PC2 & AC. I was impressed not only by the expansive tuning options for cars but also by the options for setting AI competitors vs those exposed in GT.
Makes 0 sense, because gt3 cars in real life run almost 4 degrees of camber. It should make way more grip with 4 degrees camber
Yeah. I agree. That doesn’t correlate with reality
Adjust suspension from top to bottom. It's in a specific order for a reason. Watch the stability and rotational G force change as you adjust. There is an optimal setting for every car but I believe it all starts with the ride height and roll bars.
@Hagbard Celine Actually I'm sorry but I think this is exactly what you need to do when the track changes. If you have varying elevations increase ride height but by increasing ride height you must change everything else so once again start at the top set right height and adjust everything accordingly
It’s not a perfect way. But it will definitely get you in the ball park region for good grip 👍🏻
Have you had any success tuning older cars so the handling characteristics feel more modern? 🤔
Ride height and roll bars seem to be so car specific that I wouldn’t adjust either until you’ve taken it for a few laps on a few different tracks and felt where it needs to go
Agreed Good point I naturally started doing this and my experience of doing made me tune cars much better than when I first started with gt6 I always had trouble finding grip because I would have unknowingly hard
Suspension and tyres I would slide quite a bit but as keeped playing and driving and tuning I began getting better.
Just binged 3 of your videos and they're so well made and explained, good job man! I'm actively trying to get better at GT7 but haven't really gotten into the tuning too much just because I don't fully understand all the settings, but your vids have really given me the confidence to go in and just try stuff. For some cars it just feels like they won't turn no matter when I brake, so I'm definitely trying both the camber and the LSD stuff asap. Thank you!
Nice. Thanks man. The details in this camber video have changed a bit with recent game updates. So these camber stats can’t be checked any more. But most of the time. Lowering the camber helps a bit 👍🏻
Adjusting the front camber angle to a slightly higher negative camber angle helps out more of the outside front tyre on the track and allow higher corner entry speeds and accuracy through corners. Keeping a lower negative angle at the rear helps keep more tyre on the road and improve acceleration on exit. I try to find the sweet spot for each using the specs section of the tuning page. Many of mine that I have dialled in will have camber numbers like 1.8-2.4 front and 0.8-1.9 rear with toes of 0.08-0.18 out at the front and 0.10-0.24 in at the rear. This is based on overall performance but dictated by how they do in the green hell. I urge anyone to try these sorts of numbers and see how they go. I find they make a huge difference
That’s very good information 👍🏻👍🏻
Front 2.5 rear 1.0 need more on the front along with some toe out to help grip, on rear need less as it affects acceleration also each car is different
Wow, that’s a huge difference! I always have problems in that last corner aswell.
Hope this helps 👍🏻
Subscribed! Looking forward for more videos.
Is weird how game is set with the need so little camber. Usually 2.5 is what i run on my track impreza and that made for me a big difference in how agile was the car to turn in tho corners.
Thanks man. Yeah I’m surprised how little camber seems best. I’m also surprised how far off the default setups seem to be too!
Thing is, in real life, slick tires don't work well if you don't change the camber. So if the GT7 model is anything like the real thing, you should do this experiment for every tire again and again. And for every car. But thanks, I will test a bit with it.
Yeah absolutely. I agree.
Camber is "supposed" to work with the anti roll bars and spring rate (and ride height, downforce etc.). Maybe worth trying mixing arb and camber with a graph? GT7 may be too simplistic though.
Yeah it should all work together. It’s something I might look into when I get to suspension settings video.
I think its to simplistic tbh. I think for that you'd need to get into a simulation game like ac or pc or something.
Plotting the data on a graph definitely helps find the best setting. I have that same car and set the rear camber to about 0.3-0.5 and the front to about 2. Unless you are turning at very high speeds, which is very unlikely, you dont need the camber to be so low. 1.5-2.5 up front works great. Also dont forget the corvette has ideal weight distribution. Try setting up an awd car or mid engine car and camber affects it differently.
Good points 👍🏻
Great video. I would love a video that walks through the order of adjustments you take. For example, do you start with the diff, then ride height, then compression, etc. Or do you start with a part of the suspension first?
It’s a really good idea. Once I’ve got through most of the settings I’ll put together a video like that 👍🏻👍🏻
looking forward to see that. I subscribed. No idea how I found the channel but I like to content so far.
@@Doughtinator You deserve a medal, and a lot more subs. Helps a lot for old guys like me. Can't wait for the video :-)
Would like to see more about this and the relationship with toe angle! I have found that uneven camber angle works well sometimes like having more in the rear to deal with oversteer.
Yeah. I’ll be looking at toe next I think 👍🏻
Also depends on the aero, ride height front vs rear and weight distribution. On my Devil Z i run 3.5 front 2.0 rear and on my Blackbird 930T i run 1,2 front and 3.0 rear.
@@kaedeschulz5422 True.. totally different cars though. Front engine Rear drive will act differently than the RR of the 930. What people also forget is the more severe Camber (ALL you Stance Freaks) you have less Tire footprint on street, hence slower top speed and can affect conditions like rain. But Aero, ride height, and ballast if any can totally affect how the car handles for sure.
@@JuergenGDB Yep all that camber on the street sucks
I ALWAYS set toe angle to 0 (both front and rear). Changing the toe angle makes the car feel overly stable or unstable no matter what settings you use.
+ after logbooks an missions all your doing is grinding repeatedly for new cars. I like pc2 better still, but I do like gt7 graphics
Yeah. It’s a real grind!
We just tried your suggestions on camber and lsd with a Gr3 mazda pp 768 (Australian supercar spec 652 hp). They improved the car greatly thanks. We also found on a 30 lap x1 trye wear test at Bathurst that the wear was better than we expected. With improved performance we expected increased tyre wear but the wear virtually the same.
Nice. I was interested in tire wear. I was going to look at that for a future video 👍🏻
Exactly what I was afraid about : tyre wear getting worse, but if it does not, that's great !
Question: does that lateral Gs graph apply to every car or just the Corvette?
Just corvette. But it might be similar for other Gr3 cars.
Thank you for this video. Ive been having a hard time tuning my GT3RS. I cant wait to get home and try this out.
Let me know how you get on 👍🏻
AC also by default imho uses too much camber for the most part. Especially in the back of the car.
You really have to have a lot of g-force going on or body roll for it to be effective…and for the really twisty tracks “some” camber can be useful.
However, I think drivers get lost in the looks and not in the actual physics. They end up using so my camber, they’re losing traction on corner exit as there is less tire on the tarmac.
How does one know what the proper rotational g is supposed to be?
Great video, btw
Thanks man. Higher the better. It’s hard to tell the exact number. Trial and error to find the best.
Yes!! This is what I need to dial in my gr3 corvette
I wonder how much the weight of the vehicle, where the ballast is, spring frequency pushing down, aero, tires, etc all works in that equation.
Btw, I found out that the less force on the tires, the lower grade you need (spring freq).
I was driving a 350 with race tires and skidding all over. I switched to sport and then it handled fine.
Also, I wonder if force applied to the tires (suspension, average/top speeds, torque, etc) influence the type of tire you use. Meaning, if you’re not putting down the power, or applying force on the tires that would theoretically heat them up, the race slicks down do bag.
It’s all very interesting stuff. I know with updates since this video that some of these things are no longer calculated for PP. so things have changed a bit.
While this is free grip IRL in GT7 it's not because it changes the PP
Good point. If your race is PP limited 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator Sadly the PP system is a bit broken. 0,01 toe sometimes give you 4 or so more PP same goes for every single point of value change even on the 1,XXX gear number's.
My little Tip for ff Cars: front 0.5 rear 3.0 -for me it makes me faster:) Great Videos from You !!
Yeah that’s a great tip. Get that rear end to rotate 👍🏻👍🏻
I've gotten rather decent at setting up tunes. Had a buddy over who doesn't game, but bought my dad's camaro ss and is fully building it, but complained soo much about the in game models handling. Tuned the suspension a bit and was miles ahead better.. thanks for the tips Daughty 👍
Awesome. Great to hear man 👍🏻
gran turuismo is such a fucking joke. i regret buying it tbh. even forza fucking 3 had telemetry. you can see suspension travel, tire temps, body damage..... eveything. you cant even get a fucking side view of your car in this stupid game. touted as the best car simulation for true motoring lovers, they cant even get the basics down and then they turn around and nuke the race rewards
Some very good points here 👍🏻
Now what about braking and straight line acceleration? Do those start to suffer with increasing camber angles?
PD changed a lot of the data that is calculated now unfortunately
Omg how do you turn on these additional numbers?! It looks like you can completely setup the gearing from this menue?
Yeah you need to buy the fully customisable transmission from the tuning shop. 👍🏻
Interesting to see the graph plot but that is only at a particular ride height, spring rate, and toe angle. These other factors will affect lateral G in combination with the camber at slightly different angles. It would be interesting to see how each of those relate to each other on a graph...
Yeah 100% agree. Only looking at this in insolation isn’t the best way. But it’s a consistent way.
I think most likely you’d want to revisit these numbers again after you’ve refined other areas of your setup. 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator exactly right u need a organised and consistant method of analysis
So long story short.... Just put it to 1.5 front and back and you're good to go?!
It’s a great place to start 👍🏻
with a setting of 6 on camber only half of the tire is working thus the lack of breaking and grip
Yeah absolutely right 👍🏻
This is a great series Chris and highly valued, thank you so much for doing this for us. 🙏❤
If you are curious as to why I am so late to This post, it is because I didn't receive a notification, it is an anomaly, but I will ofcourse let you know if it happens again.
Like deployed 👍
😎🎙🏎✅
Awesome. Thanks Julian. I’m really enjoying testing and making these videos 👍🏻
Big THX for your Vid(s). Can you also make suspension video? ;)
Thanks man. Yeah I plan to do it at some point. 👍🏻👍🏻
I think camber and toe are the two most important suspension settings. Getting them right together --- another story of itself. I did manage to get a Miata on GT4 to handle like a slot car at one point.
Yeah. I’m going to be looking at toe angles very soon 👍🏻
Some cars you can't even change the toe angle not even the anti roll bars annoying af..
i change this from sodę to side ,but this G rotation doesnt change at all ... Why ?
I think recent updates have changed the way this works sadly 😕
What drives me nuts is that they know everyones been trying to drag race sense day one of all GT’s and we still don’t have slicks and a course that has a drag strip and tire pressure setting…. I mean we have every other type of racing on here why not add it to the game because their is no good drag racing games for PlayStation players….
Good point.
HOW DID YOU SETUP THAT GRAPH?? PLEASE AND THANKS......SETTING THE LSD RIGHT WILL HELP ALOT TOO
I just tested for each setting and recorded the data in excel. It took a while.
Yeah LSD settings are huge. I have a video explaining that too.
Thanks mate. These vids are invaluable. Could you cover suspension settings next? I feel like it's the final piece of the puzzle for me.
Thanks man. I plan to cover all the settings eventually 👍🏻
having tuning option but BOP applied on races hahahaha 😂
Yeah. No use in BOP races. But with tuning. It’ll help.
The rotational G doesn’t work for a front wheel drive I’ve tried I have to be on track to see what works
The data doesn’t work anymore. PD updated the PP ratings and it no longer shows useful data for suspension tuning.
Man you are on point in your videos of late. GREAT JOB MATE!!
Thanks man 👍🏻
Great content. Really appreciate you helping me understand this. I think this is one of the more important videos.
Thanks Jose 👍🏻👍🏻
Can you make a setup for the FXX-K pls? It understeers alot but I can't find the perfect balance between understeer and snap-oversteer.
Afraid I don’t have that car. Roulette is not kind to me 😳🤷🏻♂️
@@Doughtinator haha I feel you. Maybe Enzo Ferrari then? Behaves almost the same.
It is like in ACC, same shit
just tried this Nov '23 and it doesn't affect any of the 'G' forces, think they might of changed it 😞
Yeah unfortunately PD patched this data to fix some other exploit. Unfortunate as it was really useful 🤷🏻♂️
@@Doughtinator real shame as that was something I could of got right into!!!
Anything adjustable work like that at the moment do you know?
Thanks for the tip
Okay, I forgot to mention using from the comments in the weight distribution video that I was Driving:
McLaren 650S GT3 ‘15
Whale tail I “think” was already there.
RS
Trial Mountain
Alright, the weight adjustment was the same, and I did change the ride height before this, but I will let my buddy do a video on that.
I did Camber all the way to 6 and it seemed alright until you hit sharp turns, and a little understeer would happen. (2:00.444)
I turned Camber down to 0.5 and there was confident steering, and even less noise than when you add weight (Silent). Sharp turns were no problem and you almost didn’t to shift. I believe this the difference between winning or losing when you go up the ladder…besides your driving ability. (1:59.183)
That difference doesn’t seem like much, but that’s the difference of seeing your opponent in the rear view mirror, or not at all on the final turn….when you are almost at the finish line. Consider that before you turn your noses up.
My buddy here wins again.
I am not sure whether to do braking next, or LDS.
I’ll do some more thinking, and decide.
….
Just figured it out….again!
Braking
I have Hella camber on my car. It's partly why my Pilot Sport AS tires only lasted 7 months. Talking IRL.
I wish I understood a single thing you just said.
🤣🤣
This is the part that I hate about GT7, too much info when it comes to car settings, I want to be a sim racer, not a sim mechanic/tuning specialist. Thanks for your help.
Definitely will try this out now with Camaro SS ‘16, mine is very understeery and not really sure about the supercharge option I chose was the high mid-high rpm one, it seemed like the it’s got extreme boost at mid-high rpm, only, and it makes coming out of the corner with back oversteering
Hi mate, watched this video last night and took what you've shown and applied it to 4 problem cars of mine. Shelby GT350, 89 Fairlady, Viper GTS and 81 Porsche 911. Each car felt loose under acceleration and cornering, to a point where they're undriveable. Your advice has pretty much made each of the above cars almost perfect in grip. With the exception of the 911 (still a bit loose), so thanks again and keep up the great work.
Will you be doing a video on the stability part of tuning? Thanks.
Awesome. Always great to hear people making improvements.
I will be looking into the stability rating and if I work it out. I’ll make a video on it 👍🏻
Great post!
So the rational G is the amount of Gs where the tyres start to lose traction and therefore tune the camber (negative) as efficient as possible to the suit the track. I would imagine high speed corner with benefit with high negative camber and low speed with low negative camber.
Yes. The data shows this. To some extent. But too much camber has no benefit.
@@Doughtinator I would imagine that ovals are another kettle of fish altogether!
thank you thank you thank you!!!!! i was so frustrated with the m6 and with your information i can handle this beast and drive a decent noob time ❤️
Awesome. Glad to help 👍🏻
Don't forget that if you lower or raise ride height you also change the camber & toe angle so once you've adjusted ride heights you might need to check the camber & toe
This is an interesting one. And I’ve we won’t know the answer to… is geometry set at a fixed height. Or I’d it set at ‘resting’ height…
When does toe angle come into play? 🤔
It’s a subtle effect. I haven’t dived into it too deeply yet.
No!
The most honest video on TH-cam today 🤣
Thanks Man 👍🏻
im struggling with Subaru 22b tuning can u make one?
i have set to 0 on both camber and toe if i try anything to these settings the car go oversteer in and out of corners
i tuning for Nürburgring nordschlife at 670pp
currently i am at 6. 47 time trial with lots of mistakes on racing soft tyres.
i know the car can do better plz help
I’ll have a LSD tuning video for AWD cars coming soon. That will help 👍🏻
Thx
Nice video, good explaining
Thanks man. Im not sure it works as well as it did now though. Updates have changed the PP calculations.
Came across this by accident and it’s been a happy accident. I knew what cambers did, but didn’t really have a working knowledge with gt7 on getting them to work in any capacity that I stopped bothering. Will be giving them another try.
Excellent. Welcome. Hope it’s helpful for you 👍🏻
More camber in fast turns and less in tight turns is opposite of real life.? Huh
In real life it definitely makes a giant difference in the game so far it depends on the car. R34 can't get that to ever get grip no matter what I put on it
Audi r8 lms . The camber is on6 . I lowered them and it made the car worse . Why?
Chris, this video is perfect for tuning numpties like me. Ermin Hamsandwich has referred (and linked) to it, too. Ur a legend. Thankyou.
Thanks Steve 👍🏻👍🏻
Interesting I tried this on a R32 I built and it really helps. Which is interesting since my camber is normally a staggered set up of -2 up front -1.5 rear
Glad to help 👍🏻👍🏻
The vette are stable even at 0.0 0.0 camber🤷🏼♂️ but it's ok.
Yeah. Was still good at 0 0
A fat thank you from Ermin Hamsandwich
👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you .... a complete tuning noob ... this was extremely helpful ... subscribed and will go through your content ... wonderful content Kudos
My second vid of yours that I've found incredibly helpful, thank you man, I'm trying to dial in the Gr3 GTR at Bathurst so I can learn to tune actual racecars. Most of my time in gt7 is spent in drift builds so I know how to tune them but not normal cars.
I am learning but
Always glad to help. 👍🏻👍🏻
Tbh i would have liked to see your laps with 0° of camber too
I have tried with 0 too. It’s not much different from 0.5 for the way it feels 👍🏻
IMHO, GT7's plans to show wind direction and speed only assist the F-1 group,where TRACK TEMP for all would be a totally more usefull tool.GPL allowed tire temps to rule the setups, and IT worked there.This comes from 30 years of real life racing,bikes,cars,and Bonneville.
Hi how about doing a video on different power parts comparison and find out what is best for lets say 600 pp or 650 pp and son on.
i raced today on Nürburgring nord and i hade audi r8 with best upgrades at 650 pp
and there was racers who were flying by me on straights and i was getting up to 270 km or so.
then one of my friend said use normal brakes disk and pads that will give you extra pp
and i did yes braking was not so good but on my 2nd lap i got use to where to brake and i got 280+ top speed and went from doing 7.57 lap to 7.52
The PP balance is a very complicated subject.
@@Doughtinator thanks for replay
i found pp system is way to much in gt 7
Many thanks.
Glad to help 👍🏻
could you please make a vid on how to fix spinning out? when accelerating out a corner or just in general. I have cars like the BMW M4 and aston martin db11 that just handles like crap and spin out so easily yet I love these cars so much irl.
I will make something eventually. But a lot of people are saying that something feels a little off with some cars on acceleration.
Using TC1 will help. TC works really well in GT7
@@Doughtinator yea i actually do use tc1. I’ll look forward to ur vids!
hey good video. Bu what about Stability in the setup menu? When you put it from 0.5 to 6 Low speed went from -0.43 to -0.40. So maybe it's also an indication of what to expect?
I’ve been trying to translate this stability number and I’m not 100% sure how it translates.
I would assume this is an oversteer/understeer value but I’m not sure how it matches up yet.
@@Doughtinator Well since its a negative value ... it reported the opposite of your test result. Or maybe, another counterintuitive menu. GT series are always like that.
The pieces are slowly falling into place. Good tip !
Glad to help 👍🏻
Great video. I have a couple of cars that try to snap the back end when accelerating out of corners. Gonna have a play around with the cambers. I'll edit when I've tried
Excellent. Look forward to your feedback 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator so, yep, it's worked. Gold on Tsukuba mission and Alsace with the Pantera. Such a small tweak that makes such a big difference in rotation of the car.
Great work my friend... Kudos
why the setting sheet is locked for some cars such as Audi R8 Evo when playing arcade race resulted in gear ratio can't be adjusted?
Yeah I think in arcade. Perhaps settings are locked 🤷🏻♂️
@@Doughtinator May be Bop...
Good video and information. Definitely deserve more subs.
Thanks Kyle 👍🏻
nice vid, good information. Thanks
Glad to help 👍🏻
Wow, this is so helpful. Had no idea to reference the stuff on the left side. Thanks
Recent updates have reduced the amount this data is useful. I don’t think suspension settings are calculated in PP or G data anymore unfortunately.
@@Doughtinator Ugh, are you for real? Like what the actual f is Sony up to?
I did a video recently on 20 things about GT7 that suck and this is one of them. I can't even start to try and count how many setups there are online from gamers. Now here we are just a year down the road and all that effort was for nothing.
I honestly don't understand how they're approaching this game that's been around a quarter century. I mean Gt4 was better than this version and its like 15 years old. The only thing is the newer cars. Nothing else.
Anyway, thanks again for your efforts to help idiots like me figure out how to set up a car like some guys online. I really does make all the difference.
You only tested symmetrical camber? Or did you test all combinations?
Only matching front/rear. I didn’t go any further than that.
@@Doughtinator I rather thought assymetrical camber would be the norm in racing?
Great content Chris, highly informative 👌
Thanks Graham 👍🏻
Your content is superb mate, thanks!
Glad to help man 👍🏻👍🏻
Nice one Chris mate, im off to get a notepad out!
Glad to help 👍🏻
Camber makes the tire ride on the edge of the tread. This can drastically change the size and shape of the contact patch. More contact in a turn, but less in a straight line. Another point is yhe roll of the car. Reduce that as well with roll bars. Then fine tune with resonance. This may cause you to change camber as well in order to be in the sweet spot for specific tracks.
Yeah. I was just doing this test to see if the rotational G numbers matched with how it feels on the track 👍🏻
@@DoughtinatorThanks. I got ya. Just adding to your info.
man thanks for your lesson!!!!
Glad to help 👍🏻
SETTINGS MESSIAH HAS SPOKEN!
Have to credit RA_FILO and RA_BOBBY for this one. Great advise in the Race Asylum Discord 👍🏻👍🏻
SO I GUESS NONE OF THIS APPLIES NOW SINCE ITS A WAY NEWER UPDATE....????
The effect is still there. I’m unsure of the G numbers change since the removed a lot of these setups from affecting PP. worth a test 👍🏻
Beautiful content man wow
👍🏻👍🏻
Nice vid Chris x
Thanks Steve 👍🏻
Hey, i know that this is already an old video, but i need a hand with tuning for a particular car.
*The Ferrari P4.*
It was probably the best vintage car i've ever driven on every GT, but now a friend of mine bought it on GT7 and said that it was an awful car to drive.
I couldn't believe that PD ruined that marvelous car!
Could you try to give that car a good setup to at least make it drivable?
You know what. I just bought and tried that car in GT7. I can. Confirm. It is rubbish!
There was an update on Monday that might have helped though. I’ll try it again 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator Thank you bro!
Doesn't really help on online racing cause u can adjust anything
Very true! With BOP we are stuck with the default setting. Which often sucks.
Interesting
What do I need to buy to control the traction control I want 0 but it's set to 3 by default and I can't change it
You can do this from the pre-driving assists menu. Change it to 0 and that’ll be the default for all cars.
Ok thanks
Great vid.
Thanks man 👍🏻
@@Doughtinator shoukd make one on the dampening so we can all understand it.
Camber should be based mostly on the frequency of high-speed corners... So for example a track like Monza is going to have very little camber as there's only one turn that can be considered high speed.... And Monza also has around three heavy brake zones where you need your wheels to be very flat and very little camber. And in acceleration zones where you need non cambered rear wheels to get maximum traction....Compare that to at track like Mugello, which has very few hard braking zones, but many turns that could be considered medium to high speed so in a track like that you're going to want to have more camber. So it's really track related not so much car related
You are very right for IRL. I’m not sure exactly how it would be simulated in Gran Turismo 7 🤷🏻♂️👍🏻