Most of us still fence with stays or timber box assemblies (as opposed to steel posts, etc), so these tutorials are worth their weight in gold. Thank you! 🙏🏼
Used Peter’s method about a dozen times - on 6 and 7 wire electric fences using 2.5 high tensile wire. Was sceptical that re-tensioning the brace would be difficult - but have never had to re tension a brace yet. Two brace loops tied off this way is certainly working for me and I do like tight fences. Also recommend Peter’s Stayblocks, however I still use timber posts with. Also as much of the country I have farmed is soft deep soils my preference is for the end post to be 9’ ie. 5’ in the ground and 4’ above.
Great video & Great Tips. I bought a pair of the wire strainers a little while back & they are brilliant. They are a bit different to use to start with, however once I used them a few times they were great. I wouldn’t be without them Keep up the great work Tim & Peter..👍
I understand his method. As a contracting company ramming over a 120km of rural last year alone .. If any my worker took this long as well that ugly finishing product. It be plz explainn..... Dont use staples on box stays drill a hole. If you tie the assembly at the base of the post it will lift up in soft clay then adventurly lean the post to what ever side the mesh or strained wire is. Great video for beginners ❤
Probably a silly question, how is the tension held on the strainer wire after you cut the wire at the back of the wire strainer? I’m not sure if it’s the way he is overlapping the wires and where did the loose end come from that he tied off second? My way of thinking would be that the loose end would have been in the wire strainer. Not knit-picking, I genuinely want to understand how his technique works. Thanks for the video and info Tim.
If I’ve got this right, both ends are pinched on either side of the base of the end assembly by the u-nails. The wire spinner end of the wire is still connected but looped around the post for tensioning. The wire end is cut at the strainer to release the strainer. Then the wire spinner end is cut at an appropriate length to tie and fed back onto the spinner. Hope that makes sense.
Looks like a lot less physical effort there Mr. Thompson. I like knotting the way you do in your videos. I try to make each knot closer to how you do it. When making a dozen knots a day... it makes the time go by faster. 😁
Newbie here. Enjoy your knowledgable videos. It’s not quite clear for me, I’m trying to get what’s happening in this vid… so you strain the wire… then does the hammered staple hold that strain after you cut the wire to do your end knots?? cheers
The knotless method can't be used on a corner assembly. I have a fence repair job that is due to a car knocking over 4 line posts and a brace post. The corner post is still there but has a slight lean. This is a field fence that has 13 high tensile horizontal wires. I was intrigued by the comment in the video that the theoretical way to brace is to have 1 loop for every 2 high tensile wires of the fence. This would seem to indicate that I needed 6 loops. There was also a mention that maybe 3 loops is the maximum that is needed? This is kind of confusing because every brace I see on TH-cam is using two loops of wire. The previous fence contractor used 4 loops of wire. The loops were twisted together. I can see the advantage of twisting all loops at once because there is no tugging on the wire to get all the slack out that would be needed with for example a ratchet strainer that is attached to the last loop. Havinig more than 2 loops or needing more than 2 loops seems to be an undiscussed topic for all the fence straining videos. The idea here seems to be sharing the strain on the end post with the brace post. They both are the same size so it looks like the idea would be to share the load equally. A 13 high tensile field wire fence could possibly have thousands of pounds of strain on it and it would make sense that more than 4 wires would be needed that are in a 2 loop brace.
Hi Tim, I followed this end assembly and it worked great. Unfortunately we have new fencing sections with two gal stays in 90' degree corners with stay plates supporting our driven gal strainer along each direction of fence . When it was strained it pulled over in the internal direction between the two stays, all the hinge and our top, mid and bottom wires went loose. Can you advise why you believe this has occured.. Glenn
I’ve been discussing this with Pete from Fenceline recently. He’s got really interesting ideas about how and why assemblies fail and how to overcome it. Email me gday@timthompsonmedia.com.au and I would be happy to have a chat.
I 'm a bit slow , so help me out please . He started with the end of the wire at the spinner . Where did that end go ? At 2.25 in the video he's poking the end somewhere obscured by the grass , where is it going ? Is it tied off ? Next he picks up the wire and begins to loop it around the posts , strains the wire , then cuts it . Why doesn't the wire go slack ? It doesn't appear to be tied anywhere at this point , just held in place with loose staples . I'm mystified !
The end he picks up is the first run. Before going back and rolling the loops over. Look back at the start and you will see him do this. The staples put just enough grip on the wire to hold it until the knots are tied. Cheers mate.
@@FarmLearningTim Thanks Tim . I've watched it about 5 times now , and think I understand . at the start I think he speared the end of the wire into the ground , to hold it while he ran the loops .
i would have thought the easier way would be to use a piece of timber on the diagonal using gal brackets (the ideal brackets for this purpose may not have been invented yet) and tek screws. i could probably use tek screws through hoop iron twisted around the timber to secure it. i hate staples. i'd have used big fat tek screws for the initial wiring around then used those nifty wire stays and tek screws like ive seen on other tim thompson videos.
Sounds complicated knots, staples and plain wire is simple and easy once you develop a few skills. Have used both 2” pipe and 100 to 125 timber for braces - both work well. Peter’s stay blocks work well! - but use a well set strainer post. Standard H assembles are good, I use a 3 m top brace as a minimum - an extra brace at the bottom proves additional strength, but use two good strainer posts at least 4’ in the ground in soft ground. - not difficult these days with post rammers. Some post rammers have difficulty accommodating posts longer than 8’ - but you can dig a 1’ hole and drop in a 9’ post (my preferred strainer is 9’) More than 3 loops for the brace wire becomes difficult to get type. On a 9 wire boundary I will use two sets of three loop brace wires
I wouldn't say knotless, you're now tying 2 knots instead of one, and knocking in more than 2 staples to achieve the same outcome. As the saying goes, more than one way to skin a cat.
Most of us still fence with stays or timber box assemblies (as opposed to steel posts, etc), so these tutorials are worth their weight in gold. Thank you! 🙏🏼
Just in time. Im fencing my property. Gracias amigo from California.
A "Knotless easy end assembly" yet he ties two knots?? :-) A handy tutorial none the less. Thanks.
Great to see you've caught up with Peter! One of the legends of the industry.
Best channel for real life skills for fence builders
Thanks Tim. Just yesterday I was discussing with my boss about tying off end assemblies.
I’m going to give this technique a go 👍🏻
Another fabulous video Tim. Thanks for takng the time.
Used Peter’s method about a dozen times - on 6 and 7 wire electric fences using 2.5 high tensile wire.
Was sceptical that re-tensioning the brace would be difficult - but have never had to re tension a brace yet.
Two brace loops tied off this way is certainly working for me and I do like tight fences.
Also recommend Peter’s Stayblocks, however I still use timber posts with.
Also as much of the country I have farmed is soft deep soils my preference is for the end post to be 9’ ie. 5’ in the ground and 4’ above.
Great video & Great Tips.
I bought a pair of the wire strainers a little while back & they are brilliant. They are a bit different to use to start with, however once I used them a few times they were great. I wouldn’t be without them
Keep up the great work Tim & Peter..👍
Thanks Tim, tried knotless box end this morning, worked a treat. Had to watch the video a few times to work out what you were doing.
Great to hear.
that is a very good tip. and hi from scotland
I understand his method. As a contracting company ramming over a 120km of rural last year alone .. If any my worker took this long as well that ugly finishing product. It be plz explainn..... Dont use staples on box stays drill a hole. If you tie the assembly at the base of the post it will lift up in soft clay then adventurly lean the post to what ever side the mesh or strained wire is. Great video for beginners ❤
Drill a hole where?
Absolutely brilliant, Cheers.
Probably a silly question, how is the tension held on the strainer wire after you cut the wire at the back of the wire strainer? I’m not sure if it’s the way he is overlapping the wires and where did the loose end come from that he tied off second? My way of thinking would be that the loose end would have been in the wire strainer. Not knit-picking, I genuinely want to understand how his technique works. Thanks for the video and info Tim.
If I’ve got this right, both ends are pinched on either side of the base of the end assembly by the u-nails. The wire spinner end of the wire is still connected but looped around the post for tensioning. The wire end is cut at the strainer to release the strainer. Then the wire spinner end is cut at an appropriate length to tie and fed back onto the spinner. Hope that makes sense.
My query is the same! Tim, I don’t think you did a much of a job with this vid.
Got it in one
See JK mulligan
Looks like a lot less physical effort there Mr. Thompson. I like knotting the way you do in your videos. I try to make each knot closer to how you do it. When making a dozen knots a day... it makes the time go by faster. 😁
Did you get a new camera?? The vids look amazing!! Crisp and clear!!
Thanks mate. Still the GoPro on this one..... but there’s a new one coming soon!
Newbie here. Enjoy your knowledgable videos. It’s not quite clear for me,
I’m trying to get what’s happening in this vid… so you strain the wire… then does the hammered staple hold that strain after you cut the wire to do your end knots??
cheers
Yeah this was a bit advanced. The staple holds only until the knot is tied.
How does it stay tight after he cuts it loose from the strainers?
From the staples put in either side to hold the wire in place
Spot on.
The knotless method can't be used on a corner assembly. I have a fence repair job that is due to a car knocking over 4 line posts and a brace post. The corner post is still there but has a slight lean. This is a field fence that has 13 high tensile horizontal wires. I was intrigued by the comment in the video that the theoretical way to brace is to have 1 loop for every 2 high tensile wires of the fence. This would seem to indicate that I needed 6 loops. There was also a mention that maybe 3 loops is the maximum that is needed? This is kind of confusing because every brace I see on TH-cam is using two loops of wire. The previous fence contractor used 4 loops of wire. The loops were twisted together. I can see the advantage of twisting all loops at once because there is no tugging on the wire to get all the slack out that would be needed with for example a ratchet strainer that is attached to the last loop. Havinig more than 2 loops or needing more than 2 loops seems to be an undiscussed topic for all the fence straining videos. The idea here seems to be sharing the strain on the end post with the brace post. They both are the same size so it looks like the idea would be to share the load equally. A 13 high tensile field wire fence could possibly have thousands of pounds of strain on it and it would make sense that more than 4 wires would be needed that are in a 2 loop brace.
Tim, could you add your links, please? Thanks!
Link to Fenceline added to description. Cheers
Can the wire be tied at the top of the post
No reason why not, but would be the opposite order of sides
Hi Tim, I followed this end assembly and it worked great.
Unfortunately we have new fencing sections with two gal stays in 90' degree corners with stay plates supporting our driven gal strainer along each direction of fence . When it was strained it pulled over in the internal direction between the two stays, all the hinge and our top, mid and bottom wires went loose.
Can you advise why you believe this has occured..
Glenn
I’ve been discussing this with Pete from Fenceline recently. He’s got really interesting ideas about how and why assemblies fail and how to overcome it. Email me gday@timthompsonmedia.com.au and I would be happy to have a chat.
Hi Tim, my emails just bounced back.. is the one you provided me still active..
Glenn
@@gstar1309 I’m away atm maybe I forgot a character. Sorry. My website contact button works a treat. Goes straight to that email.
I 'm a bit slow , so help me out please . He started with the end of the wire at the spinner . Where did that end go ? At 2.25 in the video he's poking the end somewhere obscured by the grass , where is it going ? Is it tied off ? Next he picks up the wire and begins to loop it around the posts , strains the wire , then cuts it . Why doesn't the wire go slack ? It doesn't appear to be tied anywhere at this point , just held in place with loose staples . I'm mystified !
The end he picks up is the first run. Before going back and rolling the loops over. Look back at the start and you will see him do this. The staples put just enough grip on the wire to hold it until the knots are tied. Cheers mate.
@@FarmLearningTim Thanks Tim . I've watched it about 5 times now , and think I understand . at the start I think he speared the end of the wire into the ground , to hold it while he ran the loops .
How do you maintain tension over time?
The brace shouldn’t loose tension. It’s only a short loop of wire
life saver
i would have thought the easier way would be to use a piece of timber on the diagonal using gal brackets (the ideal brackets for this purpose may not have been invented yet) and tek screws. i could probably use tek screws through hoop iron twisted around the timber to secure it. i hate staples. i'd have used big fat tek screws for the initial wiring around then used those nifty wire stays and tek screws like ive seen on other tim thompson videos.
Na all thread is what you use instead of wire
Sounds complicated knots, staples and plain wire is simple and easy once you develop a few skills.
Have used both 2” pipe and 100 to 125 timber for braces - both work well.
Peter’s stay blocks work well! - but use a well set strainer post.
Standard H assembles are good, I use a 3 m top brace as a minimum - an extra brace at the bottom proves additional strength, but use two good strainer posts at least 4’ in the ground in soft ground. - not difficult these days with post rammers.
Some post rammers have difficulty accommodating posts longer than 8’ - but you can dig a 1’ hole and drop in a 9’ post (my preferred strainer is 9’)
More than 3 loops for the brace wire becomes difficult to get type.
On a 9 wire boundary I will use two sets of three loop brace wires
Not easy to tighten up the strut wire after time when it goes loose.
👍👍👍
Oh hate when they leave small pieces of fencing wire out in the field.
Me too. I picked them all up
isnt that knot?
Not in the brace. Stronger
I wouldn't say knotless, you're now tying 2 knots instead of one, and knocking in more than 2 staples to achieve the same outcome. As the saying goes, more than one way to skin a cat.
No straining knot in the span. Holds better.