When you are testing for voltage, you are holding the black lead on the PS2 console that's not even attached to the poswer supply board? You will never get a reading that way. There would have to be a ground wire still connected from the power supply to the shielding to get a reading.
Ugh. You're right. I dunno why I did that. I always put the black on some kind of ground. Brain fart I guess while shooting? 🤷 Thanks for pointing that out! I'll definitely address it in a future video.
Thank you for making videos like this. I have one question: my glass fuse is blown. It is 3,15a - 125v. Now, the problem (at least where I live) is that it is impossible to get one like that as it is quite uncommon. Do you have any suggestion on a fuse that is similar or equivalent that could work? I clearly don't want to risk any other components
And thank you for watching 🙂 To answer your question, are you able to order it online? You can poke around Amazon if it's available or if Ali Express ships to your country you can try there. If you can buy a harness to walk a chicken on AliExpress, they should have the fuse you need lol. I've ordered parts from there with no problem. Long shipping times but they showed up but you're mileage may vary so keep in mind the stuff comes from China. You can also see if electronics parts suppliers like Digikey ship to your country. Even eBay. Just trying to think outside the box for you 🙂
I'm not a fan of shopping online, specially since shipping is always a hundred times more expensive than the item I want to order... Looking for something available I got a 3a 250v fuse. The store person said it ''should'' work and so did another person in an internet forum. Do you think it can be used or am I risking other components? My biggest concern is the voltage difference, being 125v the original and 250v the one I got
@@franciscocampos8857 You're fine. You can use a fuse rated at a higher voltage than the original. What blows the fuse is over current. That's why you can't use a fuse with a higher amps. That you can't go higher. I've actually gone higher on the voltage with fuse replacement on the motherboard but used the same amp rating. Just keep in mind the fuse you're replacing it with is slightly lower than the original. Will that .15 make a difference? Probably not but it will have a slightly lower tolerance for blowing 🙂 But yes, you should be good.
I don't keep a list. They'll be different from power supply model to power supply model. I also usually mention the values in my videos at least the ones I replace. Otherwise the values are on the capacitors themselves. When ordering replacements you just have to match the values.
LCR meter no. Since this video was published I did buy an ESR meter a viewer recommended. I'm happy with it. I have another power supply video in my editing queue where I use it 🙂
@@titanrepairs do you know how to fix xbox one X power supplies I have a bunch of dead ones, I would love to fix them if you have a video on those cause they have such a high failure rate.
I do not unfortunately. I mostly do more retro and vintage tech and consoles. It honestly has more to do with cost. I fix these things and sell them as a side hustle. A broken PS2 I can get for 15-20 but a XB1 may cost upwards of 100+. It's higher financial risk for me and with wedding planning and saving for a house, I'm going with the lower risk option. At least until this channel is monetized or I get a hell of a deal lol. If I was pulling in Tronicsfix viewers definitely all day long. But I'm still small potatoes 🙂 If you have a bunch I'd say crack one open and start probing and experimenting! If you worked on one power supply you should in theory apply what you learned to another.
I have watched your video part 1 and part 2 on how to replace the power. My son has the original fat console and of course after sitting for a few years does not come on. I have watched how to clean but figured that is not going to make the power come on. I would like to know where you are located and if you still restore power supply capacitors? I am located in San Diego, CA
I went ahead and checked the power supply and it works. Should I still check the capacitors and would these have anything to do with the reset and eject buttons not working
Good morning! Sorry for the late response. I just saw you're comment. Unfortunately I'm on the east coast and not taking mail ins just yet. It's in the future but not yet. If the power supply is outputting the correct voltage the issue isn't there. If it's outputting too low or not at all then there's an issue. The next common issue on the fats why power isn't getting through is there's likely a blown fuse. I haven't run across one in a while where I could make a video but it's easy to check. You can also check the ribbon cable coming from the power switch to make sure it's not damaged. What is the model number?
@@titanrepairs the fuse looks good with a visual view I didn’t do a test on it. What should the reading be for the power? I was thinking it might be the switch itself but don’t know how to test it. The ribbon on the power switch has a fold in it but I figured that was normal to get it to lay right. The board has the same number as your video had
@@ColPaniArt Good evening. I'm so sorry for the late response to this. It's been an absolute crazy week for me and I finally have a moment to catch up on things. In my previous comment I see I wasn't clear. I meant a blown fuse on the motherboard. There's a couple that blow very easily and it will make your console not power on. You'd have to test them with a multimeter. You do that by setting it to continuity mode and put the leads on either side. If you get a continuity reading, it's fine. If it says OL it's blown and current isn't going through the fuse. You can do that with any fuse :) If I recall correctly off the top of my head I think the power supply outputs 12 volts in two points each for a total of 24 volts. It should be the first and the third hole. If you want I can find a more in depth guide on testing power supplies I used at one point for you 🙂 If you want to test the switch that goes into the power supply, remove it and put the multimeter probes in the connector. When it's off you should see OL on the multimeter. If the switch is on you'll have continuity.
Take a look on the circuit board on the power supply. It should have the amps rating. I'm from the states and the board I'm looking at says 125V 3.15A just above the fuse. I'd imagine its printed on the European power supplies. I'm not sure if the amps are different on European systems.
It's a pretty standard fuse. You should be able to get it easily off the internet. The value of the fuse is printed on the circuit board between the power input connection and the fuse. The spare I have lying around says it's 125V 3.15A. It'll be different if you have a PAL system. May even change from power supply model to model. Just double check to make sure you get the right one. You may be able to find it too at a hardware store or an electronics shop.
Though that's 100% true, this was definitely an authentic sticker. I've just opened so many of these, it's become second nature on removing them easily. But it definitely gave resistance when I was taking it off. One way you can tell too if a console has been opened before is how the screws "snap" when you unscrew them the first time. If you listen carefully when I was taking off the first screw you can hear it (if you can hear it over me yammering :) ) IIRC, manufacturers put a thread locker on the screws (a weak one) that make an audible "snap" the first time they're removed. At least that's what my research has said. It also takes a slight bit of umph to break them loose. It doesn't make that sound or give resistance the second time :) Another way you can tell too is the ribbon cable for the power button won't be taped onto the disc drive. At least 0 I've worked on that have been opened before have had that still taped there lol. Just my Titan Quick Tips of the evening :) On a side note, it really does annoy me that reproduction stickers are sold on AliExpress. It's one thing if you opened your own and want to make it look original and not planning on selling. It's another where you and I both know that unscrupulous sellers are slapping them on and advertising it on eBay or Marketplace as "never being opened" and selling for a higher price. You did give me an idea for a future video to compare them.
Very interesting. I took my ps2 apart to clean it and when I put it back together it didn’t power on; the light that is normally red was green but when I would press the power button nothing would happen so I tried the reset button and the led went out and never returned I thought maybe I damaged the ribbon cable on the power button but I tried replacing it and it was fine. Any clue what this could be? I’m afraid I fried it or something
Do you only have one light on the switch? Normally you have a light on the power/reset and the eject button. If there's only a light on the power button and not the eject button, I may know what's going on. On like 2 or 3 PS2s (all 39000 series for some reason), I found that fuse PS11 on the motherboard was blown. I replaced it and it blew again. After more research and diagnosing, it was the IC next to that fuse that actually shorted out, blowing the fuse. What you have to do is test to see if it's shorted to ground. There's a lot of guides out there on how to test ICs. Basically, you put a probe on the ground pin and check the other pins. You'll need the schematic for it. Plenty of PS2 schematics out there :) You may get lucky and it's just the fuse. But in my experience it's not. But it is fixable. You'll likely need a donor board though unfortunately :(
@@titanrepairs my model was 30001 and yeah there was only one light on until i pressed the reset button and they both went out. I’m thinking I might just try swapping out a whole new mother board and see if that does the trick
@@ethanwashoe5868 uh oh! I have the feeling you have a blown fuse. The fuse to the power switch is extremely common to blow. It doesn't take much to do. I've blown a few myself by having the ribbon cable ever so slightly off or fiddling with it with power running through on standby. So this is how you test. Take out the motherboard (obviously 🙂) and get your multimeter and set it to continuity mode. If it can beep even better! I'd check all fuses. You should have continuity, if not the fuse is blown and needs to be replaced. The specific fuse you want for the power switch is labeled PS1 on the motherboard. If it's blown let me know and I'll try to find the repair guide for you since it's kinda obscure 🙂
My ps2 fat shut off almost immediately after turning it on. The light went completely out. I unplugged it for a little while and it came back for a second then shut off again. I cleaned the adapter prongs with alcohol and it came back on but it went out again. Should I replace power board???
You can certainly try that. The symptom you describe can have more than one cause. They honestly ain't that expensive. You can get a power supply for under 20 on Amazon. If you're doing the parts cannon that's where I would get it. If it has the same symptoms after replacing it you can return it no questions asked 😉
Something is wrong with my PS2... It's a 50004 version but in "System Information" screen it says it's a 50003. 😑 What does it mean? Is it normal? I'm so confused. If someone has the same problem I would like to know what the heck is wrong with it!
Did you buy it used? I know I sometimes run into it being say a 30001 model but the system information says say a 39001 or other combinations of models. But it was opened and had the motherboard replaced. Or it's possible the top shell was damaged and replaced. But if you bought it new back in the day, could just be a factory goof. The last number in a model usually means (if I recall correctly) the region it was sold in. Honestly if it works, I wouldn't worry about it.
You'll need a step down converter most likely. I don't have any experience with them or running a 100 console in a 230 plug. I'd say search online to confirm. I'd be leary about plugging in a 120v console into 220v mains without some kind of converter but that's me.
i have an issue with my playstatio 2.. there is no issue in powering on and booting up the problem is the controller port doesnt seem to work.. i already tried 2 different new ps2 controller still not working i tried replacing also the ribbon connector and ribbon cable doesnt seem to work also.. whats the last bet on it?
Greetings and happy holidays! Someone else pointed that out and believe me, wasn't my proudest moment 😑 I dunno how I had such a brain fart and made that blunder. At some point yes I will be making a new video to address this 🙂 Thanks for pointing it out! I definitely need to address it and I may have to accelerate my shooting schedule 🙂
When you are testing for voltage, you are holding the black lead on the PS2 console that's not even attached to the poswer supply board? You will never get a reading that way. There would have to be a ground wire still connected from the power supply to the shielding to get a reading.
Ugh. You're right. I dunno why I did that. I always put the black on some kind of ground. Brain fart I guess while shooting? 🤷 Thanks for pointing that out! I'll definitely address it in a future video.
I have found using in-circuit esr meter for testing capacitors makes thing a lot easier.
Definitely always looking for new testing equipment! Any you would recommend?
@@titanrepairs I use MESR-100 .
Thank you for making videos like this. I have one question: my glass fuse is blown. It is 3,15a - 125v. Now, the problem (at least where I live) is that it is impossible to get one like that as it is quite uncommon. Do you have any suggestion on a fuse that is similar or equivalent that could work? I clearly don't want to risk any other components
And thank you for watching 🙂 To answer your question, are you able to order it online? You can poke around Amazon if it's available or if Ali Express ships to your country you can try there. If you can buy a harness to walk a chicken on AliExpress, they should have the fuse you need lol. I've ordered parts from there with no problem. Long shipping times but they showed up but you're mileage may vary so keep in mind the stuff comes from China.
You can also see if electronics parts suppliers like Digikey ship to your country. Even eBay. Just trying to think outside the box for you 🙂
I'm not a fan of shopping online, specially since shipping is always a hundred times more expensive than the item I want to order... Looking for something available I got a 3a 250v fuse. The store person said it ''should'' work and so did another person in an internet forum. Do you think it can be used or am I risking other components? My biggest concern is the voltage difference, being 125v the original and 250v the one I got
@@franciscocampos8857 You're fine. You can use a fuse rated at a higher voltage than the original. What blows the fuse is over current. That's why you can't use a fuse with a higher amps. That you can't go higher. I've actually gone higher on the voltage with fuse replacement on the motherboard but used the same amp rating. Just keep in mind the fuse you're replacing it with is slightly lower than the original. Will that .15 make a difference? Probably not but it will have a slightly lower tolerance for blowing 🙂 But yes, you should be good.
Excellent, thanks a lot for the quick and clear repply!
@@franciscocampos8857 You're welcome! This was a welcome distraction from doing my housework today 🤣
What are the numbers on the capisitors need to know thanks
I don't keep a list. They'll be different from power supply model to power supply model. I also usually mention the values in my videos at least the ones I replace. Otherwise the values are on the capacitors themselves. When ordering replacements you just have to match the values.
Have you ever used an LCR meter to test capacitance without de-soldering?
LCR meter no. Since this video was published I did buy an ESR meter a viewer recommended. I'm happy with it. I have another power supply video in my editing queue where I use it 🙂
@@titanrepairs do you know how to fix xbox one X power supplies I have a bunch of dead ones, I would love to fix them if you have a video on those cause they have such a high failure rate.
I do not unfortunately. I mostly do more retro and vintage tech and consoles. It honestly has more to do with cost. I fix these things and sell them as a side hustle. A broken PS2 I can get for 15-20 but a XB1 may cost upwards of 100+. It's higher financial risk for me and with wedding planning and saving for a house, I'm going with the lower risk option. At least until this channel is monetized or I get a hell of a deal lol. If I was pulling in Tronicsfix viewers definitely all day long. But I'm still small potatoes 🙂
If you have a bunch I'd say crack one open and start probing and experimenting! If you worked on one power supply you should in theory apply what you learned to another.
I have watched your video part 1 and part 2 on how to replace the power. My son has the original fat console and of course after sitting for a few years does not come on. I have watched how to clean but figured that is not going to make the power come on.
I would like to know where you are located and if you still restore power supply capacitors?
I am located in San Diego, CA
I went ahead and checked the power supply and it works. Should I still check the capacitors and would these have anything to do with the reset and eject buttons not working
Good morning! Sorry for the late response. I just saw you're comment. Unfortunately I'm on the east coast and not taking mail ins just yet. It's in the future but not yet. If the power supply is outputting the correct voltage the issue isn't there. If it's outputting too low or not at all then there's an issue. The next common issue on the fats why power isn't getting through is there's likely a blown fuse. I haven't run across one in a while where I could make a video but it's easy to check. You can also check the ribbon cable coming from the power switch to make sure it's not damaged. What is the model number?
@@titanrepairs the fuse looks good with a visual view I didn’t do a test on it. What should the reading be for the power? I was thinking it might be the switch itself but don’t know how to test it. The ribbon on the power switch has a fold in it but I figured that was normal to get it to lay right. The board has the same number as your video had
@@ColPaniArt Good evening. I'm so sorry for the late response to this. It's been an absolute crazy week for me and I finally have a moment to catch up on things. In my previous comment I see I wasn't clear. I meant a blown fuse on the motherboard. There's a couple that blow very easily and it will make your console not power on. You'd have to test them with a multimeter. You do that by setting it to continuity mode and put the leads on either side. If you get a continuity reading, it's fine. If it says OL it's blown and current isn't going through the fuse. You can do that with any fuse :)
If I recall correctly off the top of my head I think the power supply outputs 12 volts in two points each for a total of 24 volts. It should be the first and the third hole. If you want I can find a more in depth guide on testing power supplies I used at one point for you 🙂
If you want to test the switch that goes into the power supply, remove it and put the multimeter probes in the connector. When it's off you should see OL on the multimeter. If the switch is on you'll have continuity.
I have the same power supply it turn on then shuts off
The fuse of my ps2 is broken. It is 250v but there i cannot find the amps anywhere. Does anyone know?
Take a look on the circuit board on the power supply. It should have the amps rating. I'm from the states and the board I'm looking at says 125V 3.15A just above the fuse. I'd imagine its printed on the European power supplies. I'm not sure if the amps are different on European systems.
Any idea where u can pick up a new ps2 fuse?
It's a pretty standard fuse. You should be able to get it easily off the internet. The value of the fuse is printed on the circuit board between the power input connection and the fuse. The spare I have lying around says it's 125V 3.15A. It'll be different if you have a PAL system. May even change from power supply model to model. Just double check to make sure you get the right one. You may be able to find it too at a hardware store or an electronics shop.
That was a fake warranty sticker, you peeled it off too easily. They sell fake warranty stickers on aliexpress.
Though that's 100% true, this was definitely an authentic sticker. I've just opened so many of these, it's become second nature on removing them easily. But it definitely gave resistance when I was taking it off. One way you can tell too if a console has been opened before is how the screws "snap" when you unscrew them the first time. If you listen carefully when I was taking off the first screw you can hear it (if you can hear it over me yammering :) ) IIRC, manufacturers put a thread locker on the screws (a weak one) that make an audible "snap" the first time they're removed. At least that's what my research has said. It also takes a slight bit of umph to break them loose. It doesn't make that sound or give resistance the second time :) Another way you can tell too is the ribbon cable for the power button won't be taped onto the disc drive. At least 0 I've worked on that have been opened before have had that still taped there lol. Just my Titan Quick Tips of the evening :)
On a side note, it really does annoy me that reproduction stickers are sold on AliExpress. It's one thing if you opened your own and want to make it look original and not planning on selling. It's another where you and I both know that unscrupulous sellers are slapping them on and advertising it on eBay or Marketplace as "never being opened" and selling for a higher price. You did give me an idea for a future video to compare them.
Very interesting. I took my ps2 apart to clean it and when I put it back together it didn’t power on; the light that is normally red was green but when I would press the power button nothing would happen so I tried the reset button and the led went out and never returned I thought maybe I damaged the ribbon cable on the power button but I tried replacing it and it was fine. Any clue what this could be? I’m afraid I fried it or something
Do you only have one light on the switch? Normally you have a light on the power/reset and the eject button. If there's only a light on the power button and not the eject button, I may know what's going on. On like 2 or 3 PS2s (all 39000 series for some reason), I found that fuse PS11 on the motherboard was blown. I replaced it and it blew again. After more research and diagnosing, it was the IC next to that fuse that actually shorted out, blowing the fuse. What you have to do is test to see if it's shorted to ground. There's a lot of guides out there on how to test ICs. Basically, you put a probe on the ground pin and check the other pins. You'll need the schematic for it. Plenty of PS2 schematics out there :) You may get lucky and it's just the fuse. But in my experience it's not. But it is fixable. You'll likely need a donor board though unfortunately :(
@@titanrepairs my model was 30001 and yeah there was only one light on until i pressed the reset button and they both went out. I’m thinking I might just try swapping out a whole new mother board and see if that does the trick
@@ethanwashoe5868 uh oh! I have the feeling you have a blown fuse. The fuse to the power switch is extremely common to blow. It doesn't take much to do. I've blown a few myself by having the ribbon cable ever so slightly off or fiddling with it with power running through on standby. So this is how you test. Take out the motherboard (obviously 🙂) and get your multimeter and set it to continuity mode. If it can beep even better! I'd check all fuses. You should have continuity, if not the fuse is blown and needs to be replaced. The specific fuse you want for the power switch is labeled PS1 on the motherboard. If it's blown let me know and I'll try to find the repair guide for you since it's kinda obscure 🙂
@@titanrepairs well thank you for all the information I really appreciate it!
@@ethanwashoe5868 You're most welcome! Good luck and I'd love to know how you make out :)
My ps2 fat shut off almost immediately after turning it on. The light went completely out. I unplugged it for a little while and it came back for a second then shut off again. I cleaned the adapter prongs with alcohol and it came back on but it went out again. Should I replace power board???
You can certainly try that. The symptom you describe can have more than one cause. They honestly ain't that expensive. You can get a power supply for under 20 on Amazon. If you're doing the parts cannon that's where I would get it. If it has the same symptoms after replacing it you can return it no questions asked 😉
Something is wrong with my PS2...
It's a 50004 version but in "System Information" screen it says it's a 50003. 😑
What does it mean? Is it normal? I'm so confused.
If someone has the same problem I would like to know what the heck is wrong with it!
Did you buy it used? I know I sometimes run into it being say a 30001 model but the system information says say a 39001 or other combinations of models. But it was opened and had the motherboard replaced. Or it's possible the top shell was damaged and replaced. But if you bought it new back in the day, could just be a factory goof. The last number in a model usually means (if I recall correctly) the region it was sold in. Honestly if it works, I wouldn't worry about it.
You know, the disclaim scene would serve better at the start of the video. Genius…
It upset you that much you had to leave a nasty comment on it's placement? Genius!
@@titanrepairs Yeah. Thats what the comment section is for. Free feedback. And you reply me with a middle finger? Thats very* polite! You win.
Can a ps2 be universal. I have a ntsc j model that labeled 100v but here in india it is 230V. Would the ps2 runs fine??
You'll need a step down converter most likely. I don't have any experience with them or running a 100 console in a 230 plug. I'd say search online to confirm. I'd be leary about plugging in a 120v console into 220v mains without some kind of converter but that's me.
can i use methanol for cleaning electronics
I just stick with 92% Isopropyl alcohol. It's cheap to get anywhere and is a great cleaner.
i have an issue with my playstatio 2.. there is no issue in powering on and booting up the problem is the controller port doesnt seem to work.. i already tried 2 different new ps2 controller still not working i tried replacing also the ribbon connector and ribbon cable doesnt seem to work also.. whats the last bet on it?
Did you try replacing the controller ports themselves?
@@titanrepairs im planning to try replacing the port but i dont know where to buy them i live in the philippines
Hahahha the black in the console and the red on other side
I'm aware of the error. I have a link to an updated video in the description.
كم هو الخرج out pot please
Hey :) The measurement you made in 7:30 min is not carried out correctly. Don't mislead your viewers and change the video or remove it! Regards 🤛
Greetings and happy holidays! Someone else pointed that out and believe me, wasn't my proudest moment 😑 I dunno how I had such a brain fart and made that blunder. At some point yes I will be making a new video to address this 🙂 Thanks for pointing it out! I definitely need to address it and I may have to accelerate my shooting schedule 🙂
id first check regulators
All your spare psus prob work if you test them correctly... ffs lol
I'm aware there is an error in this video. It's why I called it out in the description and provided a link to an updated video.