Your work is pretty amazing, but I think the best part is how you stick around in the comments and actually respond to people. It's refreshing to see, and I admire those who seek to spread their knowledge and understanding to the masses.
+YuTubrz More of it is going in than we realise. Right now I'm looking at that bog roll and thinking it needs a knurled washer. Could I motorize it? ;)
James, have you ever tried using PETG plastic instead of ABS. I'm basically switching to it from ABS for most parts. The only thing which was keeping me with ABS was acetone welding, but I found that Weld-On #4 (the number is important) chemically welds PETG as well as acetone does for ABS, so problem solved. PETG is much better at layer adhesion, I can print screws and not have them break at layers. Try to break a PETG printed part, it won't break along the layers, crazy strong. It has much more resilience than ABS, it can be bent and shaped similarly as you do with ABS with a hot air gun. Also it is much easier to print as it doesn't warp, bed temp (with PEI as surface as your Lulzbots have) doesn't need to go above 70 -- mostly 55-65 depending on part size. It also doesn't shrink, so dimensional accuracy is much easier. Not sure about the availability in the UK, its similarly priced to ABS in the states. Colors are less easier to come by, so that will be an issue an it has more of a shiny look.
If you have a palm sander, maybe give that a try for further exterior smoothing. They're small and gentle on surfaces and won't melt the plastic if you keep it moving. Love watching your builds.
Greetings from Canada. Nice work on the ball. I working with sanders and grinders a lot and I would not recommend that you use an angle grinder on the ABS plastic. The grinding wheel spins much too quickly and will tend to melt the plastic rather than remove it effectively. The better solution is a belt sander or an oscillating disc sander to remove the plastic and smooth the surface. Most belt sanders have a wide flat base which makes it easier to control as compared to the spinning edge of the grinding wheel. Work your way through the grits starting at 80 and the finish will be much smoother without the gouges you had created with the grinder. Good luck and thanks for posting the build thus far. I look forward to the future installments.
I didn't know you uploaded another video this week so when I clicked on youtube and saw that you had, it made me super happy! And extra happy that it was a BB-8 episode! Awesome video, really enjoyed the content of this one, the big ball looks so impressive and I like the creative names, banana and trousers XD. Can't wait for another video!
James, I'd screw some "x" wooden supports across each opening and center some bearings in it then take a belt sander to it so you can get it super uniform - this will really help your mechanics act accurately.
Hi James, your BB-8 is looking fantastic!! If you ever need to remove overlaps again on a partial sphere......you could always ......make a hub plate for the top and bottom, include a centre hole for an axle. (you could secure the hubs using the existing screw holes). Insert an axle, and support at the top and bottom.....you could then create a fixed position guide which would have the same profile as the partial sphere.....attach a sander to the guide, thus allowing you to sand the entire surface while still maintaining your distance from the surface......I could email over a drawing if you'd like. Thank you so much again for your wonderful videos!!!
My only concern would be slippage on the forward drive wheel through tyre wear, uneven surface etc. (friction loss) as it is fixed... possibly a simple sprung suspension to keep it in firm contact to the inner surface, perhaps? Man, you're elloquent, a pleasure hearing your clear and concise worms K)
to smooth the ball i was thinking you would make a rig with a lazy suzan and a belt sander. You could set it so it will rotate the ball and round it while smoothing the surface. Looking forward to the build!
James- have you considered buying a 3d scanner so as to utilize the ability to scan items like your motors, and thus making it easier to represent non-printed models? I hope that makes sense.
Just had an idea for sanding BB-8s' wheel, if you can attach it to a potters' wheel (powered turntable thing) then you could use a file or chisel to make it super smooth perfect circle. One would need a very steady hand and make or break would be to get it dead center on the potters wheel, though. Can a tube be used to feed the acetone through a syringe (kind of like a drip used in a hospital) so their are no air pockets in the wheel?
Did you consider extending the head arm below the pivot point and adding balancing ballast on that end? This would cancel out the overturning moment generated when the head rotates. It'll also lower the cg of the ball and may allow for smaller motors to be used to move the head.
This version is going to be so good. I would put a drop of Loctite 243 on the nut holding the drive wheel, to secure it. I would also go for a finer paper (120) on the angle grinder. It turned out fine anyway, but a bit slower grinding would make it less nervous.
To remove the ridges, you could probably try adding some side plates (discs) to the body, put an axle through both sides, then spin the whole body up as you position the grinder, just skimming the raised sections off as it goes around, should make the whole body almost perfectly round at the end. I guess you would also have to make some sort of jig for the grinder to control the skim distance/depth as the body rotates.
If you fix some wet n dry onto the inside of a spare (enlarged) segment it would make a good sanding tool that would naturally tend to turn it into a more perfect sphere - instead of needing the careful finessing of each curved joint with a flat sanding tool.
I am so excited to watch this pan out. I really like your ideas for making it bank, as you were building version 2 I was wondering how you would achieve it in this version.
James, great builds. Just wanted to share an observation after watching TFA again for the 3rd time, the head on BB-8 does not fully rotate. The collar stays in place and only the top of the head rotates between the thin silver band and the thick silver band.
The lead shot has another advantage over the pennies: Lead is diamagnetic, so it has very little influence on magnetic fields around it. That should mean that magnetometers are safe to use now, even when turning on the spot.
When are you going to continue the lightsaber project? Sorry, I am trying to figure out how to make one. I literally have no experience in electronics... Your BB8 looks really cool!
FYI - For those times PLA is the better choice, you can solvent weld PLA with IPS Weld-On 3. Works just as well as acetone with ABS. You can order it on Amazon.
James, you seem to have a really good camera, but I think recording in 1080p and above would be top notch, especially in this day and age. This would probably bring some additional audience too. Also thanks for the excellent work !
The bitrate would allow better compression (which is very faulty during fade-out/in transitions), but 720p requires upscaling to fit 1080 monitors, that most of us use. I understand that it'll be an issue regarding upload times, especially with your tight schedule (btw I really don't know how you handle that x) ). Do you think it'll become too hard to keep up if you use that format ?
Great video as always! But the angle grinder was a bad idea. When you sand plastics you have to move slowly or else you will only displace the plastic instead of turning it into dust and removing it. In fact, it's probably best to wet sand it with a very slow running belt sander or a cylindrical sander for power drills with a large diameter and run it very slowly.
How about instead of using multiple wheels to prevent the chassis from shaking use spheres or semi spheres, that way it can stop it from moving both back and forth and side to side. You'd probably save material, space and weight that way. They can be shaped to the contours of the central hub.
Hey James, what do you think of the idea to make a BB-8 style droid but with the intention of it being "All-Terrain"? perhaps it could be similar to this build that you're doing right now but with Ninja-flex tire treads around outside of the main (barrel shaped) part of the ball. Anyways just an idea, can't wait to see V.3 when it's done! :D
Hi. have you considered somehow mechanically shifting a weight (maby a motor) from side to side on the center axel to make the droit leane in to the curve as its driving.
As always James, Fantastic job, could you have a look at the Patreon, and see if you could add in the option for give you a set amount per month rather then a amount per video. I really do enjoy your builds. And I thank you for taking the time to film them all, edit them and add all the detail explanations. I am guessing the long print times give you the chance to catch up on editing ( hahaha) but all jokes aside, I am sure all your viewers know how much work actually goes in them making of your videos and it very appreciated.
+Pontus Oskarsson Normally Yes however it my be the way James has it set up, it only give me option per Video . I already Patreon other , and if I don't set limits it ends up costing more then cable tv LMAO plus ,James is in UK and CAD to UK dollars ends up costing double.
for a perfectly round finished product, you can take an old bicycle from a garage sale, cut the frame so it's just the rear arm & center hub left (rear wheel and center crank) with your angle grinder, placed it on the bench on it's side, chain side down, remove the rear tire, then cut the rear arm off, so now you just have half the rear arm on the chain side still attached to the centre hub(clamped to the table), clamp the BB8 plastic wheel to the steel rim of the bike and start spinning... well have someone else spin.. then sand it with a hard block .. or actually lathe it... but since you've an angle grinder, cutting up a bike, wrapping some sand paper around a piece of 2x4 and getting an assistant for an hour.. would work just great too.. .. alternatively, if you've a bench grinder... remove the guard and wheel from one side, turn it sideways so that exposed side is hanging over the side of the bench, rebolt it down, cut out a circle of plywood the proper size to fit your BB8 wheel, drill a hole in the centre to fit the grinder, bolt it all on... then turn on and sand with a hardblock
Hey, im sure someone has mentioned this already but have you tried using a enclosure for your Taz 5/taz mini to help reduce warping from the rapid temperature changes?
I am new in your channel but enjoying it a lot. Can you explain to me why you did not when for PLA instead of ABS? In my case 3D printing ABS has been imposible. Especially big parts like the one your are printring. Also, What are your tricks to print ABS? I have a Creality CR-10 S.
Hi James Great youtube channel watching it has made me decide to get a 3d printer it arrives this weekend for my birthday cannot wait. Thanks for taking the time to share all this information. can I ask a do you have a preference for 3d filament as just starting out there is so much choice also how much aproxomatly did it take to print the main ball. many thanks Mark
My question is how to make the controller ? I havent got the time to see all your videos, but i need to figure out how to make a controller, to steer my BB-8, and i need a start.
Hi James, Love your videos! I just started watching them and don't know if you tried using a worm gear rod and servo motor, like in your past Robots arm, to turn the roller motor left and right so the Ball is able to run in any direction and not just straight ahead?
Big fan, I Think you're a genius and I think you'd be a really great guy to hang out with, you seem to be into lots of interesting stuff. I was really happy to see a new video posted, I've been working my way through the back catalogue of videos. James, are you ever going to post more Johnny 5 Short Circuit build videos? Did you just dump that project? Can't wait for more videos. Ryan
It'd be fiiiine, do it for the 80's kids... What other projects do you have in the pipeline? I'd love to see some idiot/beginners guides. Buy these items and build this thing... For all us wannabe builders scared to take the step to commit to something
Hey James! Have you heard of "Blynk"? As regards with your plans to make an app, take a look at this one, it works with iOS and Android and works with lots of different wifi boards including the Photon. It'll have Bluetooth compatibility soon, apparently. Just thought you might be interested, I'll comment on your next video too in case you miss this.
Do you keep your printer in a garage? I have mine in my room so I can't really ever leave it unattended with the risk of fire (since a garage you can use sprinklers in without wetting a carpet!)
Hi James, This seems to be getting very interesting as a similar but completely different working model. I was just wondering whether a mobile phone could be used for all your electronics to keep things perhaps a little less trouble free with regard to any up down side to side and signal transmission?
I worry that motor will not drive the robot quickly enough. Have you done some calculations to see what the speed will come out to (RPM * wheel circumferences ....)?
Great video! love seeing these in my sub box! i would use silicone or something of that genre to secure the lead shot, i feel like glue may have some complications and will deteriorate after time :) keep up the good work.
+James Bruton (XRobots) Molten plasticine if you might reuse later, sometimes used in models as ballast alone or with lead shot. Wax works too but more prone to cracking.
Great build! Looking forward to see it finished. I wonder if this would be the definitive one or there could be a 4th version? Anyway, I loved the previous one, and this will be even better, so thumbs up! 👍
Couldn't the banana be extended higher and then mount a small motor up top that turns a counterweight suspended from the top on an arm extending just beyond the center of the track? It may be more efficient than building another flywheel and give you tighter steering.
Your work is pretty amazing, but I think the best part is how you stick around in the comments and actually respond to people. It's refreshing to see, and I admire those who seek to spread their knowledge and understanding to the masses.
You do so much consistently, how do you even have time to respond? I bet you have something printing RIGHT now. +James Bruton (XRobots)
+Tystarr2k2
I bet he had twins ;)
lol
que legal
I never understand any of this, but it's a blast to watch!
Same
+YuTubrz More of it is going in than we realise. Right now I'm looking at that bog roll and thinking it needs a knurled washer. Could I motorize it? ;)
+YuTubrz Lol - i thought the same thing!
+YuTubrz Same, I could just about understand it up until banana :P
James, have you ever tried using PETG plastic instead of ABS. I'm basically switching to it from ABS for most parts. The only thing which was keeping me with ABS was acetone welding, but I found that Weld-On #4 (the number is important) chemically welds PETG as well as acetone does for ABS, so problem solved. PETG is much better at layer adhesion, I can print screws and not have them break at layers. Try to break a PETG printed part, it won't break along the layers, crazy strong. It has much more resilience than ABS, it can be bent and shaped similarly as you do with ABS with a hot air gun. Also it is much easier to print as it doesn't warp, bed temp (with PEI as surface as your Lulzbots have) doesn't need to go above 70 -- mostly 55-65 depending on part size. It also doesn't shrink, so dimensional accuracy is much easier. Not sure about the availability in the UK, its similarly priced to ABS in the states. Colors are less easier to come by, so that will be an issue an it has more of a shiny look.
Cosmetic wise make it super screen accurate!!!
+Nick Bowker true
If you have a palm sander, maybe give that a try for further exterior smoothing. They're small and gentle on surfaces and won't melt the plastic if you keep it moving. Love watching your builds.
Fantastic episode...I love watching your builds! Keep up the great work, James :)
how many versions will it take you before you can have bb-8 flip out his lighter?
Greetings from Canada. Nice work on the ball. I working with sanders and grinders a lot and I would not recommend that you use an angle grinder on the ABS plastic. The grinding wheel spins much too quickly and will tend to melt the plastic rather than remove it effectively. The better solution is a belt sander or an oscillating disc sander to remove the plastic and smooth the surface. Most belt sanders have a wide flat base which makes it easier to control as compared to the spinning edge of the grinding wheel. Work your way through the grits starting at 80 and the finish will be much smoother without the gouges you had created with the grinder. Good luck and thanks for posting the build thus far. I look forward to the future installments.
What amazing work you do admire your patience and persistence for a perfect version.
nothing like a new xrobots vid to brighten up your day!
I didn't know you uploaded another video this week so when I clicked on youtube and saw that you had, it made me super happy! And extra happy that it was a BB-8 episode! Awesome video, really enjoyed the content of this one, the big ball looks so impressive and I like the creative names, banana and trousers XD. Can't wait for another video!
James, I'd screw some "x" wooden supports across each opening and center some bearings in it then take a belt sander to it so you can get it super uniform - this will really help your mechanics act accurately.
Really excited to watch Version 3. Looks like you have learned a lot and its going to be improved greatly. Can't wait to watch along as you go :D
Wow looking like a proper mechanic with that large angel grinder ;)
Nice build
Shaping up to be the best one yet! Can't wait to see how it all turns out.
Good luck with the rest of the build, and MTFBWY!
Beautiful work! love seeing your videos and how you work arround the different steps/problems in each build. I learn new things every time! Thanks!
Hi James, your BB-8 is looking fantastic!! If you ever need to remove overlaps again on a partial sphere......you could always ......make a hub plate for the top and bottom, include a centre hole for an axle. (you could secure the hubs using the existing screw holes).
Insert an axle, and support at the top and bottom.....you could then create a fixed position guide which would have the same profile as the partial sphere.....attach a sander to the guide, thus allowing you to sand the entire surface while still maintaining your distance from the surface......I could email over a drawing if you'd like.
Thank you so much again for your wonderful videos!!!
Whoa! When you knocked on the ball, the pitch it produced was the note B. How appropriate for a BB-8 droid. Hurray for resonant frequencies!
Especially when it's unintentionally punny
My only concern would be slippage on the forward drive wheel through tyre wear, uneven surface etc. (friction loss) as it is fixed... possibly a simple sprung suspension to keep it in firm contact to the inner surface, perhaps? Man, you're elloquent, a pleasure hearing your clear and concise worms K)
James, you're a god to me. Seriously this is awesome, I would like to have the time and the tools to do this.
Very excited to follow this revision! Third time's the charm :)
yes yes yes yes this is my most anticipated series i love when i c in my twitter feed that you have uploaded another
to smooth the ball i was thinking you would make a rig with a lazy suzan and a belt sander. You could set it so it will rotate the ball and round it while smoothing the surface. Looking forward to the build!
your work is amazing I have been watching for a while now and I'm true a fan of your work
James- have you considered buying a 3d scanner so as to utilize the ability to scan items like your motors, and thus making it easier to represent non-printed models? I hope that makes sense.
James at 7:54ish there's a pair of decent looking tool boxes, would you mind sharing what they are and where they came from?
Just had an idea for sanding BB-8s' wheel, if you can attach it to a potters' wheel (powered turntable thing) then you could use a file or chisel to make it super smooth perfect circle.
One would need a very steady hand and make or break would be to get it dead center on the potters wheel, though.
Can a tube be used to feed the acetone through a syringe (kind of like a drip used in a hospital) so their are no air pockets in the wheel?
Did you consider extending the head arm below the pivot point and adding balancing ballast on that end? This would cancel out the overturning moment generated when the head rotates. It'll also lower the cg of the ball and may allow for smaller motors to be used to move the head.
This version is going to be so good. I would put a drop of Loctite 243 on the nut holding the drive wheel, to secure it. I would also go for a finer paper (120) on the angle grinder. It turned out fine anyway, but a bit slower grinding would make it less nervous.
+James Bruton (XRobots) which autodesk version do you use?is it a trial?
These are great builds ... looking forward to the next update!
Your videos are always much appreciated. Good job on the hard work!
To remove the ridges, you could probably try adding some side plates (discs) to the body, put an axle through both sides, then spin the whole body up as you position the grinder, just skimming the raised sections off as it goes around, should make the whole body almost perfectly round at the end. I guess you would also have to make some sort of jig for the grinder to control the skim distance/depth as the body rotates.
If you fix some wet n dry onto the inside of a spare (enlarged) segment it would make a good sanding tool that would naturally tend to turn it into a more perfect sphere - instead of needing the careful finessing of each curved joint with a flat sanding tool.
James your BB-8's are coming along good, :)
I am so excited to watch this pan out. I really like your ideas for making it bank, as you were building version 2 I was wondering how you would achieve it in this version.
+Taonas hey just wondering why does it say you commented 4 days ago?
+Darth Creeper brop a patreon they get access early i think
patreon isn't youtube tho
+Darth Creeper Patreon, or some people upload on a non public setting that people can still stumble across.
oh ok
You had me at "trousers"
... Can't wait for next week. :)
Cheese, banana, and trousers. Comedy gold!
Love it. Any chance that you will release files of parts that are somehow cut to meet smaller printers than the Taz ?
Banana, cheese, and trousers? Sounds like a hell of a good time.
omg so excited, I remember when you first uploaded the bb-8 version 1
Thats one great 3D printed pumpkin if I've ever seen one. Yup yup.
James, great builds. Just wanted to share an observation after watching TFA again for the 3rd time, the head on BB-8 does not fully rotate. The collar stays in place and only the top of the head rotates between the thin silver band and the thick silver band.
The lead shot has another advantage over the pennies: Lead is diamagnetic, so it has very little influence on magnetic fields around it. That should mean that magnetometers are safe to use now, even when turning on the spot.
When you finish them all 3, you should program them that they all "dance" the same way at some kind of event
Subbed! Looking forward to more progress videos on this.
When are you going to continue the lightsaber project? Sorry, I am trying to figure out how to make one. I literally have no experience in electronics... Your BB8 looks really cool!
FYI - For those times PLA is the better choice, you can solvent weld PLA with IPS Weld-On 3. Works just as well as acetone with ABS. You can order it on Amazon.
Great episode, again! like always :)
Very cool, as always!
Great work! And I like the "cunning plan" reference. :)
You could make a real army of those BB-8!
solid abs is quite solid :DD
Captain obvious ;)
Looking forward for more videos.
James, you seem to have a really good camera, but I think recording in 1080p and above would be top notch, especially in this day and age. This would probably bring some additional audience too.
Also thanks for the excellent work !
The bitrate would allow better compression (which is very faulty during fade-out/in transitions), but 720p requires upscaling to fit 1080 monitors, that most of us use.
I understand that it'll be an issue regarding upload times, especially with your tight schedule (btw I really don't know how you handle that x) ). Do you think it'll become too hard to keep up if you use that format ?
You are SO Inspiring! Would love to see you make HASBRO BB-8 Move faster, and make the head move independently!
Keep up the Great Work!!!!
Great video as always! But the angle grinder was a bad idea. When you sand plastics you have to move slowly or else you will only displace the plastic instead of turning it into dust and removing it. In fact, it's probably best to wet sand it with a very slow running belt sander or a cylindrical sander for power drills with a large diameter and run it very slowly.
amazing. I can barely picture the mechanism as you describe it.
Love what your doing... It has inspired me to build a Glados bot. Keep it up!
How about instead of using multiple wheels to prevent the chassis from shaking use spheres or semi spheres, that way it can stop it from moving both back and forth and side to side. You'd probably save material, space and weight that way. They can be shaped to the contours of the central hub.
Hey James, what do you think of the idea to make a BB-8 style droid but with the intention of it being "All-Terrain"?
perhaps it could be similar to this build that you're doing right now but with Ninja-flex tire treads around outside of the main (barrel shaped) part of the ball. Anyways just an idea, can't wait to see V.3 when it's done! :D
YES!!!!!! The world needs one of these 😁
l
Hi.
have you considered somehow mechanically shifting a weight (maby a motor) from side to side on the center axel to make the droit leane in to the curve as its driving.
Facepalm
As always James, Fantastic job, could you have a look at the Patreon, and see if you could add in the option for give you a set amount per month rather then a amount per video. I really do enjoy your builds. And I thank you for taking the time to film them all, edit them and add all the detail explanations. I am guessing the long print times give you the chance to catch up on editing ( hahaha) but all jokes aside, I am sure all your viewers know how much work actually goes in them making of your videos and it very appreciated.
+patprop74 As a patreon donor you can set a max amount per month on your own if I remember correctly!
+Pontus Oskarsson Normally Yes however it my be the way James has it set up, it only give me option per Video . I already Patreon other , and if I don't set limits it ends up costing more then cable tv LMAO plus ,James is in UK and CAD to UK dollars ends up costing double.
I always love seeing theses videos in my feed, wow you almost have as many likes as views!
hello James, good job, and thanks.
Just one question, what brand and type of motor have you used? and where can I buy them?
thank you, i really enjoy watching your work, you are amazing, keep it up
for a perfectly round finished product, you can take an old bicycle from a garage sale, cut the frame so it's just the rear arm & center hub left (rear wheel and center crank) with your angle grinder, placed it on the bench on it's side, chain side down, remove the rear tire, then cut the rear arm off, so now you just have half the rear arm on the chain side still attached to the centre hub(clamped to the table), clamp the BB8 plastic wheel to the steel rim of the bike and start spinning... well have someone else spin.. then sand it with a hard block
.. or actually lathe it... but since you've an angle grinder, cutting up a bike, wrapping some sand paper around a piece of 2x4 and getting an assistant for an hour.. would work just great too..
.. alternatively, if you've a bench grinder... remove the guard and wheel from one side, turn it sideways so that exposed side is hanging over the side of the bench, rebolt it down, cut out a circle of plywood the proper size to fit your BB8 wheel, drill a hole in the centre to fit the grinder, bolt it all on... then turn on and sand with a hardblock
Your videos are great. Thank you for sharing!
Am I the only one who was disappointed he didn't print the "banana" part in Yellow ABS?
+Lufferov :D
+Lufferov REPRINT REPRINT REPRINT REPRINT
Maybe think about casting the fly wheel in solid lead.
Thank you for your vidéos James ! Congratulations, it's an amazing job !
that angle grinder worked quick but i think a palm sander would have worked smoother, just an idea for next time!
Hey, im sure someone has mentioned this already but have you tried using a enclosure for your Taz 5/taz mini to help reduce warping from the rapid temperature changes?
17:28 "I've split up and laid out my banana parts there..." Oh, you!
if you had access to something like a lathe you could have fitted it with a temporary hub and spun it at high speed while applying files and sanding
Have you tried the PET-G filament/ it is stronger than ABS and less prone to warping and shrinking. Yoy can weld this stuff using SCIGRIP 4
I am new in your channel but enjoying it a lot. Can you explain to me why you did not when for PLA instead of ABS? In my case 3D printing ABS has been imposible. Especially big parts like the one your are printring.
Also, What are your tricks to print ABS? I have a Creality CR-10 S.
James looks interesting. 100hrs print wow hope you have solid walls, and u must have been up every 4hrs to kick the next part of.
Do you sleep with ear plugs in :)
Do you think that since it could lean on the side you could make it do a barrel roll ?
How do you make the Solvent? Just add some length of ABS plastic to the acetone?
Hi James
Great youtube channel watching it has made me decide to get a 3d printer it arrives this weekend for my birthday cannot wait.
Thanks for taking the time to share all this information.
can I ask a do you have a preference for 3d filament as just starting out there is so much choice also how much aproxomatly did it take to print the main ball.
many thanks
Mark
where's your R6 unit series it's a great series and I would love to see some development
Have you ever tried water sanding with high grit paper?
Hey James. Good episode, lots of progress. As your projects continue to increase in complexity, have you considered using the 32 bit Arduino Due?
My question is how to make the controller ? I havent got the time to see all your videos, but i need to figure out how to make a controller, to steer my BB-8, and i need a start.
Would be cool to see you build a Customized BB-8 For 3.0 but liking your vids
Hi James, Love your videos! I just started watching them and don't know if you tried using a worm gear rod and servo motor, like in your past Robots arm, to turn the roller motor left and right so the Ball is able to run in any direction and not just straight ahead?
Hey James, i love your videos, what printer settings did you use to print the 300 mm parts ? eg. nozzle temp etc.
Hi James, which is the nodel of the car of the windscreen motor ?
Big fan, I Think you're a genius and I think you'd be a really great guy to hang out with, you seem to be into lots of interesting stuff. I was really happy to see a new video posted, I've been working my way through the back catalogue of videos. James, are you ever going to post more Johnny 5 Short Circuit build videos? Did you just dump that project?
Can't wait for more videos.
Ryan
It'd be fiiiine, do it for the 80's kids... What other projects do you have in the pipeline? I'd love to see some idiot/beginners guides. Buy these items and build this thing... For all us wannabe builders scared to take the step to commit to something
Hey James! Have you heard of "Blynk"?
As regards with your plans to make an app, take a look at this one, it works with iOS and Android and works with lots of different wifi boards including the Photon.
It'll have Bluetooth compatibility soon, apparently.
Just thought you might be interested, I'll comment on your next video too in case you miss this.
Do you keep your printer in a garage? I have mine in my room so I can't really ever leave it unattended with the risk of fire (since a garage you can use sprinklers in without wetting a carpet!)
Hi James,
This seems to be getting very interesting as a similar but completely different working model. I was just wondering whether a mobile phone could be used for all your electronics to keep things perhaps a little less trouble free with regard to any up down side to side and signal transmission?
I worry that motor will not drive the robot quickly enough. Have you done some calculations to see what the speed will come out to (RPM * wheel circumferences ....)?
Hi James. which is the product of the second bottle? the first is acetone with ABS but the second i can´t undertand. My english is very poor. Thanks
Is it possible to print the "wheel" in PETG instead of ABS? Will it be strong enough?
hey james v3 is looking solid, I just downloaded your cheese model, I'll build along with you!
Great video! love seeing these in my sub box! i would use silicone or something of that genre to secure the lead shot, i feel like glue may have some complications and will deteriorate after time :) keep up the good work.
+James Bruton (XRobots) Molten plasticine if you might reuse later, sometimes used in models as ballast alone or with lead shot. Wax works too but more prone to cracking.
So you are not using the builders club main ball parts?
Great build! Looking forward to see it finished. I wonder if this would be the definitive one or there could be a 4th version? Anyway, I loved the previous one, and this will be even better, so thumbs up! 👍
dude your awesome u deserve more than 300,000 subscribers ;-)
Couldn't the banana be extended higher and then mount a small motor up top that turns a counterweight suspended from the top on an arm extending just beyond the center of the track? It may be more efficient than building another flywheel and give you tighter steering.