In this video, I show three things that people often do wrong in Lightroom and I explain how to fix them. Please follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/anthonymorganti/ Grab that free PDF on my website here: wp.me/p9QUvD-n0y I have 100's of free videos on Lightroom. All of them FREE. My latest beginning to end video series on Lightroom processing is called, "Mastering Lightroom Classic CC" and you can watch it here: bit.ly/33FAuGi My Lightroom Presets & Profiles are on sale for 1/2 price. If you're interested, email me here to get the special Promo Code: Promo@IAmMrPhotographer.com Spelled out that is: Promo [at] I Am Mr Photographer [dot] com If you don't receive your Promo Code within 1/2 hour, check your spam folder. **I reserve the right to end this promotion at any time*** I am an affiliate for Adobe. If you're interested in Lightroom, click here to check it out: bit.ly/2zwQ0nW Gear and Settings: Deer Image Fujifilm X-T3: amzn.to/2YNhYso Fujifilm 100-400mm F4.5-5.6 Lens: amzn.to/31S9z8u Fujifilm 1.4x Teleconverter: amzn.to/2TYaTUP Handheld Aperture Priority Mode Spot Metering on the deer's eye Single point focus on the deer's eye 1/250, F8.0, iso: 800 at 560mm Fall Image Nikon D850: amzn.to/2K498SZ Nikon 24-70mm F2.8 Lens: amzn.to/2VQMKi9 Handheld Aperture Priority Mode Spot metered on foliage Single point focus on nearest waterfall 1/3sec, F11.0, iso 64 at 24mm Please support free photography training. Click the link below to see how you can help: onlinephotographytraining.com/support/ See my recommended gear list: www.amazon.com/shop/anthonymorganti The links above are my Amazon Affiliate Links. Please read my Code of Ethics Statement: onlinephotographytraining.com/code-of-ethics/ Unsure of how to price your photography? Check the 2019 Guide to Pricing Your Photography: amzn.to/2S1CiU7 I use this software to record my screen: telestream.pxf.io/DMrW2 Thank you!
I try to learn something new every day. In the first 6 minutes you totally changed my understanding and relived frustration from here on out, I'm sure. Thank you.
Anthony, Thank you for all of your help, especially with Lightroom. I am a budding photographer who got started really late in life (63) after retirement; however, I am totally hooked. I have watched several of your videos that have been a tremendous help in my photo editing as well as my photography in general. Please continue with your online help videos. You will never know this side of Heaven how much they mean to myself and others. God Bless you, A. T.
Your comments on cropping could be expanded a bit for those of us that don't use the default ratios in LR. For example what if one does 11 X 14 inch or 13 X 19 inch prints. With another 60 to 90 seconds to your video detailing the process of adding or setting custom crop ratios would make this video an excellent learning tool. Your comments on over sharping and over saturating images was spot on and reminded me to not over cook my images.
When I was in Navy flight training, we were taught to put in a correction (power, attitude, etc) and then take out half the correction. That is working well for me in image processing.
I use custom crops almost all the time except for some portraits. If I need a 20x 23" print I specify a 20x24" print when sending the image to Whitewall, and trim the image when I get it back. Also, for a 16x20" print I size the image to 15.98x19.98" so there's a slim white border for the framers to use when matting. Also, I make test prints as a check before sending an image out to prinht a size larger than I can print.
Yes, it's essential to calibrate your monitor. While I have figured out how to make a print look like the same photo on the web, I haven't figured out how to transfer the "feel" I get from a web photo to print. In other words, what I think is an excellent photo on the web may print the way it looks on the internet, but the print lacks the emotional connection achieved on the web. The opposite also works; sometimes, a print looks much more dramatic and inspiring than it does on the web. I know how to calibrate for color, but not for emotional effect.
The aspect of sharpening of course is important. I suggest that all photographers inspect in detail what each individual slider is doing in order to achieve great photo. For example, color denoising, masking and luminosity correction are very important, but that depends on the overall photo effect and scene.
Very good beginners tips. My input I have never had a brightness problem with commercial printing using am calibrated monitor BUT home printing with Lr, since my first print , I have to add +30 or so brightness. If my monitor were as dark as Lr would like, it would be too dark to work on. Easily learned and fixed. Calibration software, calibrates for the ambient (room) light for best viewing, not print brightness. Don’t do a lot of commercial printing but when done, had no brightness problems. Color space problem only once. You might cover color space matching
When I first got my DSLR a couple of years ago, a lot of the videos I watched said to fill the frame. So that's what I did. Then one day I wanted some 8x10s and 11x14s and they cropped my images. I learned my lesson from that. Now I leave plenty of room around my subject just for that reason. But let's say you're doing portrait work. You don't know what size prints the client will want. You better leave room or you'll cut something off. I just bought a Spyder X pro a couple weeks ago. It changed both the temp and the brightness.
Great training Anthony. Regarding the Vibrance slider (which I use very often), I notice that it tends to affect the blues more than other colors. It's most apparent in the sky. Often I need to go back to the HSL panel and dial down the blues. Have you noticed that?
I had no idea about the cropping!!!! I’d just been leaving it at the ratio of the camera. I had wondered about the printing too. Thanks so much for the tip!!
Thanks, Anthony. Your videos always provide practical and useful info for new photogs like me. I've been lucky in my cropping and printing so far. Thanks to you, I won't be guessing any more.
When I print at officeworks, I can print in any ratio by choosing the "Do Not Crop" option. I can then trim my paper myself at home to suit the crop I have printed.
Great advice especially about which slider to use for a specific subject matter. I'm guilty of using both vibrance and saturation on photos. Thank you.
Great video. How do you move those panels? I've tried clicking and dragging, but they won't move. Like, the crop and straighten panel or the basic panel, how do you move those out?
Thought I was having camera/lens issues. I was having to slide the sharpening slider quite a bit. After I went to my optometrist I found I had cataracts. Had a lot of images to reprocess :)
Hi Anthony, as always, your videos are very thorough and very educational! What are your thoughts on keeping photos untouched in terms of colours to preserve the original photos. Other settings can be changed, such as, WB, exposure, contrast and so on... ? Thanks
I now have a better understanding of crop ratio, thank you, and I agree with the rest, of saturation and the like, I was always told to walk away for a while and re adjust, don't get it right all the time but who does
I love your work and teachings. i had an issue with my prints coming back dark. I solved that by using curves adjustment after i was all done. I know just how much to brighten my image so it will print okay. Maybe this is crude but it seems to work for me.
Great video Anthony ,I didn't know this ,and I have run into this getting prints done. I have an image of a train and it was shot at 24 mm. I want to get the entire image in the 8 X 10 print .Do I choose custom and cross my fingers or do I choose 4X5 / 8X10 and loose part of my image?
Thanks for the chart and the great info. I'd really like to hear your comments on LR Dehaze. You and a number of the other pros I watch on You Tube rarely, if ever, use it. How come?
great video thank you. normally in the develop module as soon as you done editing a picture and you wanna move to the next one you would either left click with the mouse the next picture or use the navigation arrows. I was wondering if there is out there a mouse that by clicking one of its extra buttons would move to the next picture. this would save me time when i have to work with a few thousand of pictures from lets say a wedding. i tried and does not help me the wacom tablet. thank you
Thanks for the video. Explains a few things. However, I cannot download via the link the Aspect ratio PDF. What page on your website would i find it? Thanks
LOL, Walk away to many times, who's got time for that when you're processing hundreds of pictures. lol subtle is always better, sometimes SOOC is the best look if you're done a great job with your exposure triangle
Thanks Anthony, always helpful to know what I could be doing wrong. There are so many videos about LR sliders that each time I watched one that was different, I wanted to go back to my previous edits. I gave up and now just start with auto adjust and do minor tweaks from there. I'm editing on a laptop (Dell XPS 15 with OLED) and I was wondering if I should set the brightness of the panel to max or not when editing for printing (like a vacation album).
You mentioned that one of the mistakes people make is over sharpening and image. But it would have been helpful to show an example of what to look for or where to look to determine that it is over sharpened. Clearly, if one originally over did it, they thought it was OK then.
Thank you for this helpful video . Can I just check this with you please Anthony . When processing for print to be sent for printing by a commercial printer I believe that it is necessary to turn your monitor brightness down by about 30pct before you start editing . If you do not then it is likely that the print you receive back will be darker than you were expecting. Is that correct please ? Thank you
Thanks for another great video. Can I ask about the vibrance slider, I've noticed that you can hold shift and double click the slider, same as the the whites and blacks slider. Is this giving me a bang on technical adjustment?
Good stuff Anthony - I gave up on the spider years ago. I seem to get good results from adjusting to a sample image. Partly because of using different labs. That's just me.
for the most part people are trying to recreate what they think the scene looked like through their eyes when they took the picture...until some time in the future and cameras can capture exactly what is seen , in other words match the specs of the human eye and how brains interpret the scene people will continue tweaking...
Yep, crop. I work at a photo studio & printing, most customer want an 8R size print and they have photo file like a fuckeen panorama. Its a pain to explain to them everyday why their photo will be cut at side or get a border if i make it full print ..
I have a problem in Lightroom 5.7.1 and I can't resolve it. Can anyone help? When I try to open LR5 I get a message saying that LR5 could not read from the preview cache. What's wrong?
Your explaination of vibrance is a bit off. It affects already saturated colors less than the muted ones. Not specifically yellow and orange that you suggest. The reason it's better for portraits is just that the skin is already quite saturated and therefore will be protected compared to what you get with saturation slider.
All A paper sizes are 297:210 which is sqrt(2):1 or 1.414:1. 6x4 is 1.5:1 so not quite correct. From memory, you can enter the correct details for A series paper as a custom crop in Lightroom.
Following myself up now that I'm at a computer with Lightroom Classic CC installed (the latest 9.0 as it happened, though this should work back to early versions of Lightroom). I have a crop of 29.7 x 21 available in Lightroom's crop menu - I'm not sure whether that was originally a crop I entered or not, as I do sometimes print on A series paper. If you do not have the same crop, enter 29.7 x 21 as a custom crop, which is correct for all A series paper sizes.
I am not sure whether you can calibrate a laptop screen, I don't see any settings for this, that said I have a Canon Pro printer and that prints true to my screen, the images are simply gorgeous, weirdly I looked at some of my images on a friends screen who is an expert and has a "calibrated" screen and they looked total crap, so I am puzzled
Images on screen are fundamentally different from images on print. The first are backlighted (acting like a light source), the second are reflected light. That's why images on print are dimmer, and need added light.
I have calibrated my monitor and when I print my colors are spot on, but I still struggle with darkness. I am printing using Canon's print studio pro plugin and it seems I need to adjust the brightness for almost every print. I am using the Spyder 5 Pro. Any suggestions?
Hi I sometimes have the same problem and also use Print Studio Pro. My monitor is calibrated but think it may be to do with the Brightness level of the monitor not the colour. Can you adjust yours.
Presumably it is because since his first video tutorials like all of us Anthony will have learnt more from then to now and is putting into his new videos his newly acquired skills and advice.
In this video, I show three things that people often do wrong in Lightroom and I explain how to fix them.
Please follow me on Instagram:
instagram.com/anthonymorganti/
Grab that free PDF on my website here:
wp.me/p9QUvD-n0y
I have 100's of free videos on Lightroom. All of them FREE. My latest beginning to end video series on Lightroom processing is called, "Mastering Lightroom Classic CC" and you can watch it here:
bit.ly/33FAuGi
My Lightroom Presets & Profiles are on sale for 1/2 price. If you're interested, email me here to get the special Promo Code:
Promo@IAmMrPhotographer.com
Spelled out that is:
Promo [at] I Am Mr Photographer [dot] com
If you don't receive your Promo Code within 1/2 hour, check your spam folder.
**I reserve the right to end this promotion at any time***
I am an affiliate for Adobe. If you're interested in Lightroom, click here to check it out:
bit.ly/2zwQ0nW
Gear and Settings:
Deer Image
Fujifilm X-T3: amzn.to/2YNhYso
Fujifilm 100-400mm F4.5-5.6 Lens: amzn.to/31S9z8u
Fujifilm 1.4x Teleconverter: amzn.to/2TYaTUP
Handheld
Aperture Priority Mode
Spot Metering on the deer's eye
Single point focus on the deer's eye
1/250, F8.0, iso: 800 at 560mm
Fall Image
Nikon D850: amzn.to/2K498SZ
Nikon 24-70mm F2.8 Lens: amzn.to/2VQMKi9
Handheld
Aperture Priority Mode
Spot metered on foliage
Single point focus on nearest waterfall
1/3sec, F11.0, iso 64 at 24mm
Please support free photography training. Click the link below to see how you can help:
onlinephotographytraining.com/support/
See my recommended gear list:
www.amazon.com/shop/anthonymorganti
The links above are my Amazon Affiliate Links. Please read my Code of Ethics Statement:
onlinephotographytraining.com/code-of-ethics/
Unsure of how to price your photography? Check the 2019 Guide to Pricing Your Photography:
amzn.to/2S1CiU7
I use this software to record my screen:
telestream.pxf.io/DMrW2
Thank you!
Anthony Morganti is there a link to recommended affordable calibration devices, please?
I try to learn something new every day. In the first 6 minutes you totally changed my understanding and relived frustration from here on out, I'm sure. Thank you.
Anthony,
Thank you for all of your help, especially with Lightroom. I am a budding photographer who got started really late in life (63) after retirement; however, I am totally hooked. I have watched several of your videos that have been a tremendous help in my photo editing as well as my photography in general. Please continue with your online help videos. You will never know this side of Heaven how much they mean to myself and others.
God Bless you,
A. T.
i am SO glad i watched this video before i started printing my images!! THANK YOU FOR SHARING THAT FIRST TIP
Thank you Anthony. It’s taken me a couple of years to fully understand the importance of correct cropping. You have helped me a great deal. Thank you.
Your comments on cropping could be expanded a bit for those of us that don't use the default ratios in LR. For example what if one does 11 X 14 inch or 13 X 19 inch prints. With another 60 to 90 seconds to your video detailing the process of adding or setting custom crop ratios would make this video an excellent learning tool. Your comments on over sharping and over saturating images was spot on and reminded me to not over cook my images.
Thank you for your continued contributions -always inspirational. Joe
Thanks for aspect ratio info and pdf. Much appreciated!
When I was in Navy flight training, we were taught to put in a correction (power, attitude, etc) and then take out half the correction. That is working well for me in image processing.
Thanks for your tutorials...they are very inspirationals.
I use custom crops almost all the time except for some portraits. If I need a 20x 23" print I specify a 20x24" print when sending the image to Whitewall, and trim the image when I get it back. Also, for a 16x20" print I size the image to 15.98x19.98" so there's a slim white border for the framers to use when matting. Also, I make test prints as a check before sending an image out to prinht a size larger than I can print.
Yes, it's essential to calibrate your monitor. While I have figured out how to make a print look like the same photo on the web, I haven't figured out how to transfer the "feel" I get from a web photo to print. In other words, what I think is an excellent photo on the web may print the way it looks on the internet, but the print lacks the emotional connection achieved on the web. The opposite also works; sometimes, a print looks much more dramatic and inspiring than it does on the web. I know how to calibrate for color, but not for emotional effect.
The aspect of sharpening of course is important. I suggest that all photographers inspect in detail what each individual slider is doing in order to achieve great photo. For example, color denoising, masking and luminosity correction are very important, but that depends on the overall photo effect and scene.
Very good beginners tips. My input I have never had a brightness problem with commercial printing using am calibrated monitor BUT home printing with Lr, since my first print , I have to add +30 or so brightness. If my monitor were as dark as Lr would like, it would be too dark to work on. Easily learned and fixed. Calibration software, calibrates for the ambient (room) light for best viewing, not print brightness. Don’t do a lot of commercial printing but when done, had no brightness problems. Color space problem only once. You might cover color space matching
Thank you for the PDF printout. Very helpful.
When I first got my DSLR a couple of years ago, a lot of the videos I watched said to fill the frame. So that's what I did. Then one day I wanted some 8x10s and 11x14s and they cropped my images. I learned my lesson from that. Now I leave plenty of room around my subject just for that reason. But let's say you're doing portrait work. You don't know what size prints the client will want. You better leave room or you'll cut something off. I just bought a Spyder X pro a couple weeks ago. It changed both the temp and the brightness.
so if you like to go close to your subjects.. printing can affect the image even if no cropping was done in lightroom?
Great training Anthony. Regarding the Vibrance slider (which I use very often), I notice that it tends to affect the blues more than other colors. It's most apparent in the sky. Often I need to go back to the HSL panel and dial down the blues. Have you noticed that?
I had no idea about the cropping!!!! I’d just been leaving it at the ratio of the camera. I had wondered about the printing too. Thanks so much for the tip!!
Thanks Anthony! Can you plz makes video on how to calibrate the monitor?
Thanks for this as I was indeed cropping all wrong as I don't really understand aspect ratio.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and expertise. I have and hope to continue to learn from you good Sir.
Thanks, Anthony. Your videos always provide practical and useful info for new photogs like me. I've been lucky in my cropping and printing so far. Thanks to you, I won't be guessing any more.
Very very helpful indeed - thank you for the time you spend on increasing our understanding - its much appreciated
When I print at officeworks, I can print in any ratio by choosing the "Do Not Crop" option. I can then trim my paper myself at home to suit the crop I have printed.
This is really good Anthony but can we change the print size to read CM ??
Great advice especially about which slider to use for a specific subject matter. I'm guilty of using both vibrance and saturation on photos. Thank you.
Great video. How do you move those panels? I've tried clicking and dragging, but they won't move. Like, the crop and straighten panel or the basic panel, how do you move those out?
Thought I was having camera/lens issues. I was having to slide the sharpening slider quite a bit. After I went to my optometrist I found I had cataracts. Had a lot of images to reprocess :)
Hi Anthony, as always, your videos are very thorough and very educational! What are your thoughts on keeping photos untouched in terms of colours to preserve the original photos. Other settings can be changed, such as, WB, exposure, contrast and so on... ? Thanks
I now have a better understanding of crop ratio, thank you, and I agree with the rest, of saturation and the like, I was always told to walk away for a while and re adjust, don't get it right all the time but who does
I can't tell you how helpful the print size ratio is! Thank you for this.
I love your work and teachings. i had an issue with my prints coming back dark. I solved that by using curves adjustment after i was all done. I know just how much to brighten my image so it will print okay. Maybe this is crude but it seems to work for me.
when he said "when our screen is 18 inches in front of our nose" I when back ASAP! lol 06:49
Great video Anthony ,I didn't know this ,and I have run into this getting prints done. I have an image of a train and it was shot at 24 mm. I want to get the entire image in the 8 X 10 print .Do I choose custom and cross my fingers or do I choose 4X5 / 8X10 and loose part of my image?
I am guilty of ALL of those. This has been very helpful. I don't use lightroom , but I'm sure I can apply it to my editing program. Thank you!
Anthony, I like the way you teach. Just start the main subject and don't waste time.
This really helped. Thank u soo much mann💯😊
Ahhhh! But you are so right. Many thanks, great tips.
Thank you for the Great Recommendations , The best one was Rest your Eyes !! Great work .
another great vid. aspect ratios have been a problem for me but not now. thanks...
Excellent video very informative and helpful, Many thanks for sharing your knowledge and guidance.
Hi Anthony, great tut. Can you please direct me to the Aspect Ratio Chart. I can't seem to find it. Thank you for all your great tips and videos.
Thanks for the chart and the great info. I'd really like to hear your comments on LR Dehaze. You and a number of the other pros I watch on You Tube rarely, if ever, use it. How come?
"Tone down your sharpening" and sharpen up your tones!
Seen pretty late but awesome thank you
the crop tip was the best!! Thanks for explaining
Good and helpful video, Anthony, especially the cropping piece. Thanks.
great video thank you. normally in the develop module as soon as you
done editing a picture and you wanna move to the next one you would
either left click with the mouse the next picture or use the navigation
arrows. I was wondering if there is out there a mouse that by clicking
one of its extra buttons would move to the next picture. this would save
me time when i have to work with a few thousand of pictures from lets
say a wedding. i tried and does not help me the wacom tablet. thank you
Actually very informative. I believe people will do mistakes again and again, Maybe someone likes oversharpening and oversaturation. Sometimes I like.
Thank you!
Hi thank you for your videos. I have on1 2020 and I am enjoying it, but I was wondering which Software you think is stronger? Thanks.
Very helpful recommendations even for an old hand like me. Thank you, Tony.
Thanks for the video. Explains a few things. However, I cannot download via the link the Aspect ratio PDF. What page on your website would i find it? Thanks
your desktop background is CRAAAZY. did you shoot that?
You. Are. My. Super. Hero!!!
With regard to cropping for prints also remember you will lose about 1cm (1/4 inch) all around the edges behind the frame.
1/4'' is 6.35mm... just saying
App Dev I shall note that for future reference 🤓
LOL, Walk away to many times, who's got time for that when you're processing hundreds of pictures. lol subtle is always better, sometimes SOOC is the best look if you're done a great job with your exposure triangle
Sometimes, but not often enough, especially when you push ETTR to get the most out of your dynamic range.
Thanks Anthony, always helpful to know what I could be doing wrong. There are so many videos about LR sliders that each time I watched one that was different, I wanted to go back to my previous edits. I gave up and now just start with auto adjust and do minor tweaks from there.
I'm editing on a laptop (Dell XPS 15 with OLED) and I was wondering if I should set the brightness of the panel to max or not when editing for printing (like a vacation album).
You mentioned that one of the mistakes people make is over sharpening and image. But it would have been helpful to show an example of what to look for or where to look to determine that it is over sharpened. Clearly, if one originally over did it, they thought it was OK then.
Hi,can you make a video;using LR and Nikon coolpix P1000?
Thank you for this helpful video . Can I just check this with you please Anthony .
When processing for print to be sent for printing by a commercial printer I believe that it is necessary to turn your monitor brightness down by about 30pct before you start editing . If you do not then it is likely that the print you receive back will be darker than you were expecting. Is that correct please ? Thank you
Hi Anthony, where was this photo taken @9:23 ?
Thanks for another great video. Can I ask about the vibrance slider, I've noticed that you can hold shift and double click the slider, same as the the whites and blacks slider. Is this giving me a bang on technical adjustment?
I usually set the sliders where I want them. Then I go back and cut the amount in half. It ends up being correct. ;)
Brilliant approach. Thank you.
Good stuff Anthony - I gave up on the spider years ago. I seem to get good results from adjusting to a sample image. Partly because of using different labs. That's just me.
Thank you Anthony!
With saturation, it's always the problem for people who like vibrant, punchy colors. It's very fine line between "perfect punchy" and overdone.
Is that white doe at the very beginning the one at Kensington Metropark?
Great video for Lightroom users.
To set back a control simply double click the handle. Yo do not need to go to the name of the function.
for the most part people are trying to recreate what they think the scene looked like through their eyes when they took the picture...until some time in the future and cameras can capture exactly what is seen , in other words match the specs of the human eye and how brains interpret the scene people will continue tweaking...
Great stuff - as usual - AM; thanks a ton! Roger
Thanks, mate! So helpful.
Thank you so much for this video! subscribed.
What's wrong with just picking custom crop and typing your print size. I have been doing this for years with great sucess.
Perhaps I miss during the view what is the aspect factor for a 1.6 DSLR? thank you!
Yep, crop. I work at a photo studio & printing, most customer want an 8R size print and they have photo file like a fuckeen panorama. Its a pain to explain to them everyday why their photo will be cut at side or get a border if i make it full print ..
Thank you so much !
but what about a freeby in cm's... I would LOVE it and apriciate it greatly.
I always learn something new from your videos, Anthony, dba IAMP
Good vid!
I have a problem in Lightroom 5.7.1 and I can't resolve it. Can anyone help? When I try to open LR5 I get a message saying that LR5 could not read from the preview cache. What's wrong?
How does the long & short edge sizing affect the crop selection when exporting as a jpeg if wanting to print? Is there recommended sizing for this?
Is that gorge picture from Watkins Glen State Park?
Great job!
Hmm.. I'm not seeing the calibrator links... am i missing something?
Good video thanks
awesome to know that ....
"what did i say i have super short term memory" ahahaha. you need some b12!
Your explaination of vibrance is a bit off. It affects already saturated colors less than the muted ones. Not specifically yellow and orange that you suggest.
The reason it's better for portraits is just that the skin is already quite saturated and therefore will be protected compared to what you get with saturation slider.
Good video. I can’t find the download link to the aspect ratio chart.
If you are on an ipad just click and copy the spot with the ratios.
Anthony, what is the correct crop ratio to print A3, I think I am using 6x4 but missing a tiny bit top and bottom
All A paper sizes are 297:210 which is sqrt(2):1 or 1.414:1. 6x4 is 1.5:1 so not quite correct.
From memory, you can enter the correct details for A series paper as a custom crop in Lightroom.
Following myself up now that I'm at a computer with Lightroom Classic CC installed (the latest 9.0 as it happened, though this should work back to early versions of Lightroom).
I have a crop of 29.7 x 21 available in Lightroom's crop menu - I'm not sure whether that was originally a crop I entered or not, as I do sometimes print on A series paper. If you do not have the same crop, enter 29.7 x 21 as a custom crop, which is correct for all A series paper sizes.
David Wood thank you
If the other persons moniter is not calibrated,..it does not matter whether your moniter is calibrated or not.
I use 16:9 crop a lot for landscape photos.
I am not sure whether you can calibrate a laptop screen, I don't see any settings for this, that said I have a Canon Pro printer and that prints true to my screen, the images are simply gorgeous, weirdly I looked at some of my images on a friends screen who is an expert and has a "calibrated" screen and they looked total crap, so I am puzzled
Images on screen are fundamentally different from images on print. The first are backlighted (acting like a light source), the second are reflected light. That's why images on print are dimmer, and need added light.
I have calibrated my monitor and when I print my colors are spot on, but I still struggle with darkness. I am printing using Canon's print studio pro plugin and it seems I need to adjust the brightness for almost every print. I am using the Spyder 5 Pro. Any suggestions?
Hi I sometimes have the same problem and also use Print Studio Pro. My monitor is calibrated but think it may be to do with the Brightness level of the monitor not the colour. Can you adjust yours.
My monitor is calibrated but I never know where to set the "Brightness" level. Any idea. (Macbook pro)
In some of your older tutorials you always adjust a sharpening first and then the noise. Why are you doing it the opposite now?
Presumably it is because since his first video tutorials like all of us Anthony will have learnt more from then to now and is putting into his new videos his newly acquired skills and advice.
Do Macbook Pro laptops also benefit from screen calibration?
Dawn Myrvik yes!!!
It looks like the print chart is in cm not inches..