All Chinese transceivers look home made ...like the type of transceiver you would knock up in your garden shed they tend to be unreliable and unless you are capable of fixing it yourself don't by Chinese crap.
I'm not sure that there's a great deal of point adding the power amplifier to a G90. Going from 20W to 100W isn't going to add more than 1 S-point to the signal, so it's a lot of money for very little advantage. I use my G90 with nothing more than two bits of wire taped to my bedrooms walls (as a very basic sort of bent dipole, using a 1:1 balun and a line isolator). From my UK location, I've worked plenty of stations in the USA, Canada and Brazil, along with contacts in Bermuda, Curacao, Martinique, Cape Verde, Kazakhstan, Uzbebekistan, Kuwait, Oman, etc. (68 countries so far, after just a few months of being on the air). So, to me, a G90 WITHOUT the power amp would seem to be a perfectly acceptable POTA solution, which would keep down weight, cost and battery power consumption all at the same time. Chris, M0JZD
Great MBM~ As an old, old, two-way radio tech... learned something very interesting when AMP Industries brought in some tapes about soldering vs crimping. Being old school, I thought no way solderr could be beat - sheesh was I ever wrong. As you pointed out the crimp does cold weld, but it also makes a gas tight connection, so over years it actually has lower connector to wire resistance. Mechanically, they showed destructive testing and proper crimps won every time. Now key to all of this is proper sized connectors for the wire and a proper crimp tool (put your vice-grips away please). Another advantage is one can crimp anywhere without the need for power. Also, you actually don't want solder backing up under the insulation because in vibration environments the wire will break at the solder wicking point and will be hard to find with the insulation covering it. Regarding the FT-891, saw in another YT vid that the 891 does not use less DC power below 30 RF watts even when you can crank RF output lower. Thanks Mike akways enjoy and learn stuff from your vids!
I have both the 891 and the G90. I love them both but the 891 is a better radio overall. However my 891 just crapped itself and needs to fly out to Yeasu for repairs, whereas my G90 (older) is still kicking along just fine. I have found with my G90 that it punches well above its weight and is a great little radio. The trick with the G90 is to run an antenna that you don’t need the tuner for. My G90 pulls seven watts off of the output using the tuner and with a radio that only puts out 20w that’s a lot of power drained. With that being said I have hit cape town South Africa using an EFHW and the tuner and received a 59 signal report with it. I think you are spot on with the economics of the G90 with amp. I run my 891 with a MAT-30 tuner (when using non resonant antennas) and the 891 with the tuner would be way cheaper than the G90 with the amp.
Now the real question will be ... G90 + XPA125B or FT-891 at 100 watts. I have the FT-891 in my truck and a G90 (and IC-705) and XPA125B and while the 891 is nice because it's up to 100 watts in one self contained unit, having the XPA125B amp allows me to use it with either radio. Also, going the external amp route, it allows new hams to get into the hobby less expensively and expand as they need. Further, you can do POTA either light (ie just the G90 or 705) or take a radio and amp if you want to go Tim Allen ... MORE POWER! My 2 cents
Back in the day, I had a Lafayette SSB-50, that was converted to 10 meters. I used a Hustler center loaded trunk lip mount antenna on my mom's '77 Olds Cutlass, and worked the world in the early 80's (cycle 21 peaked very high)! I can remember getting 10 over 9 reports in Moscow with 12 watts out! I sat in our driveway for hours, in awe at what I was working! Anywho, there was some damage under the trunk lip where the 2 screws dug in to make the ground connection, but none on top of the hood, since I put a piece of rubber latex there to protect the paint. My mom was such a good sport at the time, allowing the use of her car for my DXing mobile hobby, before I could afford my Subaru 'partymobile'! Great times!
Let me tell you my opinion. 1. Between 20W and 100W is a gain of 1 point per S-meter, so it is not worth consuming electricity for nothing for the portable. The antenna will make the difference between the two. 2. G-90 can also grant a fork and this is a big gain. 3. I would go portable on a transceiver with low energy consumption and the G90 offers this even in FT8. 4. And last but not least is the price, so that we don't forget both transceivers are built with parts made in China. 5. It's up to everyone what transceiver they like, I had Kenwood, now I have Icom, Yaesu but also Xiegu G90 :) The rest are stories..
Good show Mike! As far as Anderson Power Poles go, I would definitely say to crimp! I have both soldered and crimped with success. However, my dad was a HAM and a lifelong radio, TV and electronics tech from the day I was born. He taught me how to solder when I was 5 years old so, I have 60 years soldering experience. Way too many problems can result from an inexperienced soldering job and the connection is not really any better than crimping. About the only mistake one can make crimping is to not use the proper tool and/or not apply the proper pressure. Of course, too little pressure and the wires will slip out of the connectors. Too much pressure will disfigure the connector and it won't fit in the plastic hood.
I agree with Peter (below) get em both if you can. The 891 is probably one of the best deals in Ham radio, plenty of power and GREAT receiver! The G90 is portable and versatile, also a good radio for backpacking.
Crimp vs solder, for right gauge wire & connector crimp only. If you feel solder is needed then crimp, then solder. Reason being: crimping forms the wire to the shape of the crimper, the crimper makes the connector fit in the plastic. Another Down side of solder is the heat may cause the insulation to pull back exposing wire behind the plastic part, also soldering may make the connector not fit well into the plastic part.
As far as solder vs crimp goes, you really don't want solder wicking that far up your cable as it will create stress points as the wire flexes and can break easily. IMO, just crimp it and be done, but if you must, solder just the very end of the wire after crimping.
The trick with soldering is not to flow the solder to much you just want it in the tip where its crimped "not flowing down the wire" its where people get caried away you find trouble I have had more Crimped fittings fail then soldering Funny thing is I just had a Power wire for my FT-891 just fail 4 wires pulled out of the crimp.
Spit and a T-shirt are my go to tools for so many things. I have two Dakota Lithium 7ah batteries which I charge with their 110v charger. In the field I use the PowerFilm 60w foldable solar panel (60 to 90 minutes depending on the sun) and a Buddipole Power Mini controller. Thanks for the video.
I have trunk lip mount mounted vertically, so far no physical damage. I would make sure that your mount will take you antenna load both in weight and size as well as wind load.
I have a G90 and have confirmed contacts with 17 countries from and have worked 42 states so far... no amplifier just 20W, and a dipole in my ATTIC. Mostly on FT8, but several voice contacts with 5-9 or 5-7 reception. Start small, and see what you truly need.
@@hamradiotube Indeed, I hear that comment often when I tell people I am using 20w. Great little radio, and if mobile, it can tune a 102" whip antennae well. The dipole that I am using is a half zs6bkw dipole, so a combination of dipole and ladder wire. DX is on FT8 except Canada and Hawaii, and patience is key for stations to pick you out of the noise floor with the low wattage as it is typically < -15 Great video - I enjoy watching the user submitted questions and the humor. Many HAM youtube channels can come across really dry
Just hit 100 countries and have all 50 states on mine. One of my two g90s has run 24/7 for nearly 3 years, with a few breaks during tropical storms, hurricane threats and other short shutdowns. ZS6BKW antenna at about 25' in a tree next to the house. KN4EBW
As a relatively new "tinkerer" I appreciate this video! I just recently started switching over all my connections to Anderson's and used only solder. Looks like I am going to do some more tinkering and go back through and crimp them instead. I feel in my situation, not using any kind of MFJ bus bar, they will fail even faster. I just swap them when I want to change which radio I am using. Thanks for the video!!
Another vote for the FT891. Just can't beat the price - and the performance. It's an FT450 crammed into an FT857. I use a "overkill" 40-Ah LiFePO4 and a "poor man's" buddipole (two hamsticks fed as a dipole) on my POTA activations, and it works great.
I have a 35AH Mighty Max gel cell in my portable building that I charge with one 100 watt solar Renogy panel on the roof. I can run my G90 all day/all night, even while using my LED light strips at night. That little transceiver is always within one S unit of a 100 watt transceiver. Buy it. Forget about the amplifier, you don't need it. Though I have never owned one, everything I read and watch about the 891 says it is an amazing transceiver also. Were I to be in the market again for a mobile transceiver, it would be the first thing on my list. Buy it. Both transceivers are workhorses, no doubt. For what you would have spent on the amp for the G90, save a few more bucks up and buy both both the G90 AND the 891.
That's a great idea. I wish I would have thought of that when making this video. It def makes more sense to buy both radios than it does to buy the amp. And yeah, that 35ah will keep the g90 going forever!
@@hamradiotube Mike, your videos are always well-produced and give plenty of real world useful information. Thanks for all you do for amateur radio, brother!
I too have a G90, FT-891(x2) and an WRC antenna. The G90 has been awesome on FT-8 and I've worked a plethora of DX with it (stock, 20w)... I'm sure I'd have a lot more, if I had a bit more Po to be better heard by all those countries I've seen in the decode screen. Overall, there is no comparison between the two radios. As already alluded to, the G90 is definitely good for what you get, at stock power, but to factor in the cost of an amp, for that money, an FT-891 wins, no question. A properly crimped wire lug (correct match of wire gauge, lug size AND proper crimper (ie: Aviation grade AMP/Amphenol or die type(~), not the cheap, thin, flat, stamped metal 'crimpers' ) should be sufficient. Issues such as broken strand(s) or total failure will probably arise depending on how much lateral stress (flexing) is placed on the wire where it attaches to the lug. A soldered connection might break more easily where the soldered and unsoldered strands converge, while the non-soldered are a bit more forgiving. That said, the more proper crimpers are pretty expensive to the casual user/hobbyist, so conservatively soldering connectors will probably aid in conductivity and pull strength. Soldering would also help in more corrosive (high humidity) environments, but there are alternatives like self vulcanizing tape, environmental heat shrink sleeves, or sealants that can be applied to handle that.
Solder vs. Crimp. Oh, the bar fights I've been in over that one. Last night it was the Yaesu Yaehoo's vs. the ChiCom Charlie's. It was Brutal. Us Yaehoo's kicked *ss. I usually just crimp and have had no problems when the right size connector is used with the right sized wire. G-90 vs. FT-891. Well, I have both. The 891 is usually my go to until it's not. Like when I want lighter weight or operating QRP, then the G-90 gets the nod. For that young man, Mike is 100% right, get the 891 and get those CQ's answered. Remember, he who dies with the most radio's wins. He also dies broke. Another great Monday Mailbag Mike !!!
Surprisingly the comments haven't been too bad on the issue. I'd have thought there would have been a keyboard commando war over the whole solder v crimp debate. Oh well. The 891 is sure getting a lot of love though. Rightfully so. The G90 is a cool radio but it's not half the radio as the 891. Not much smaller either. I really do like them both though.
My G90 actually did a pretty good job considering it's only 20W, and the tuner could tune a rain gutter if I wanted it to (don't actually do that.) The FT-891, however, for the additional money is definitely worth it. If your budget is tight, the G90 is just fine.
If it white it cause by moisture trap into paint you can get it out with a heat gun go slow not to close to paint and you will see it slowly disappear. If it looks scratch use a light to medium compound for clear coat finish and take clean rag like old tee shirt and rub it in till scratch are not to visible and then polish the area it should look pretty good after that hope this helps. rob
Mike--I agree with everything you said and for the reasons stated, but I really enjoy your videos for the enthusiasm you demonstrate. Some well renowned YTers (no names!) can come across as cranky or arrogant on occasion but you are always authentic. Keep up the good work!
I will keep watching as well. Mike has not stated his solution is the final word on anything, but the result of his experiments and results. Ham radio is a very good place for finding out what works and why more than one path can lead to a good solution for "you" that "I" would not have found.
Having lived through the URI Ice Storm here in Houston, I am moving more towards the QRP/Amp combo. Yes, a little more complexity. But I was using my 703+ during the storm. Why? The 703 uses only 0.5w standby, my 746Pro 26w. On battery power, that could be mission critical in a no power, no gas, at night situation. I have a Roma 100w amp, and that uses 26w standby. Now, what would be neat is a QRP rig which could have a docking station for Amp and Tuning. If my 703 dies, I would go with the 718 due to build quality, and use my amp.
Solder-only ham here, "Captain Murder". Now, if you (or other ham) want to send me a crimper for my birthday (March 3rd), I'll _probably_ use it. On the other hand, I don't swing my radios around by their power cords like an Argentine cowboy on The Pampas with a boleadoro.
I've been doing electronics since the 60's, made my living at it since the 70's (until retirement recently) and know that crimp then solder gives the best long term reliability both electrically and physically, especially when the connection is exposed to the weather or vibration. And double especially if the person doesn' t get a good crimp (Corrosion is not your friend). Just don't use too much solder where it wicks into the wire past the crimp, otherwise just the good crimp may be better long term. 73 mike N4ONL
Crimping works. If you are using stranded wire the multiple strands allow greater flexibility before something breaks. If you solder it makes the stranded wire a solid wire with one item to break….. think about it. If you’re worried about corrosion crimp and paint with liquid electrical tape. Maintains the flexibility and is more resistant to corrosion.
Yes, it will buff out. No soldering is used in Airplanes, all joints should be soldered on boats, in Ham use what works for your project, hint, either is fine. What are you going to use the radio for? The 891 is absolutely more versatile. I really do not see these 2 radios as direct competitors.
Thank you. Just a heads up, there isn't a bookmark to separate the trunk mount topic vs the G90/891 topic, its all just under the trunk mount bookmark.
I used the 891 for my base radio for about a year and it was great. Then I bought a 7300. I still love the 891 but it is now the mobile radio and the 7300 is the POTA radio. 7610 in the shack.
As an electrician, I would never solder a lug or terminal connection. I would only solder earthing wires (with other earth wires) without lugs or terminals. As a general rule, only solder wires to wires.👍
Pretty much all cars have nothing but crimped connections and they run a crap load of miles with no failure. Crimp is the way to go, even though I could just sit and solder all day long!
Yeah, an analyzer will no doubt be a great tool while tuning up the WRC. You don't need one, but it sure makes it easier. If he gets the 891, he'll have money left over for an analyzer too.
hi in the field i use the 891 with a fc 50 wher fild alows 4 antennas fron 1,2mhz to 65mhz 4 small setapu atas 120a 4 home or mobil use 891 with fc40 4 hy powe operation wl1000 with proper antennas 4 batery i use a olt soviet army wood box wich it waz made 4 , 10 peace 12v 20 batery replaced wit litium paks 5 of them in paralel abour50 amps smal esey to cary 4 a2 day work 4 the antenna mount on my wehicle i have a defender 90 have 2 long andennas in nwiz config 4 the 1.5kw yasu amplifier and atas 120a in the back also on a mount bolted to chasy
Open both of this rigs I prefer the g90 for I had made many contactsfrom ny to northern Italy without no sweat are foot and it is put together by Chinese but the made the g90 in Sweden n2Qcui gotten good reports from the USA also
I see you using the FT891 on POTA, what battery do you use and how do you charge it? Also I am considering the BlueTTI AC180 for a power source. What do you think of that? I see very little on using a power source for transceiver. Does power supply noise have anything to do with that? KO4WTQ
Oh boy, that is a vast topic I've covered extensively on the channel. Here's my battery playlist: th-cam.com/video/87HW1zkD0is/w-d-xo.html Short answer is usually some size Bioenno LiFePO4 battery charged with some type of Bioenno charger or a HiTec charger. I know not the BluTTI you are asking about. As far as power supplies go, get one from a reputable radio dealer and you shouldn't have to worry about noise.
I been considering getting the G90 as a starter HF Transceiver after I pass the general, but the other yeasu oe other brands are like a arm and a leg, I even heard sh** from old boomer hammers who talk sh** about using Cheap radios and berate new techs, 73 KQ4HCU
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I own a FT891 and G90. If I had to keep one it would be the 891. More power and a better radio. Love them both though
Absolutely agree.
Except the controls on the Yaesu suck. The only way I can use it is digitally
It's a matter of learning. Plenty of utube videos on how to use. It's a fun radio with lots of features
Heard that. FT891 vs another China radio ? Run them both hard then look at the lack of features on the China radio. Not even in the same league.
All Chinese transceivers look home made ...like the type of transceiver you would knock up in your garden shed they tend to be unreliable and unless you are capable of fixing it yourself don't by Chinese crap.
My main POTA setup is FT-891, 20-Ah LiFePO4, WRC with 17-ft whip, and no tuner. Works great just as you said!
I'm not sure that there's a great deal of point adding the power amplifier to a G90. Going from 20W to 100W isn't going to add more than 1 S-point to the signal, so it's a lot of money for very little advantage.
I use my G90 with nothing more than two bits of wire taped to my bedrooms walls (as a very basic sort of bent dipole, using a 1:1 balun and a line isolator). From my UK location, I've worked plenty of stations in the USA, Canada and Brazil, along with contacts in Bermuda, Curacao, Martinique, Cape Verde, Kazakhstan, Uzbebekistan, Kuwait, Oman, etc. (68 countries so far, after just a few months of being on the air). So, to me, a G90 WITHOUT the power amp would seem to be a perfectly acceptable POTA solution, which would keep down weight, cost and battery power consumption all at the same time.
Chris, M0JZD
Great MBM~ As an old, old, two-way radio tech... learned something very interesting when AMP Industries brought in some tapes about soldering vs crimping. Being old school, I thought no way solderr could be beat - sheesh was I ever wrong. As you pointed out the crimp does cold weld, but it also makes a gas tight connection, so over years it actually has lower connector to wire resistance. Mechanically, they showed destructive testing and proper crimps won every time. Now key to all of this is proper sized connectors for the wire and a proper crimp tool (put your vice-grips away please). Another advantage is one can crimp anywhere without the need for power. Also, you actually don't want solder backing up under the insulation because in vibration environments the wire will break at the solder wicking point and will be hard to find with the insulation covering it.
Regarding the FT-891, saw in another YT vid that the 891 does not use less DC power below 30 RF watts even when you can crank RF output lower.
Thanks Mike akways enjoy and learn stuff from your vids!
Look at the electrical connections on a commercial airliner, which operates in a range of extremes we literally wouldn’t survive. They’re crimped.
I have both the 891 and the G90. I love them both but the 891 is a better radio overall. However my 891 just crapped itself and needs to fly out to Yeasu for repairs, whereas my G90 (older) is still kicking along just fine.
I have found with my G90 that it punches well above its weight and is a great little radio. The trick with the G90 is to run an antenna that you don’t need the tuner for. My G90 pulls seven watts off of the output using the tuner and with a radio that only puts out 20w that’s a lot of power drained. With that being said I have hit cape town South Africa using an EFHW and the tuner and received a 59 signal report with it.
I think you are spot on with the economics of the G90 with amp. I run my 891 with a MAT-30 tuner (when using non resonant antennas) and the 891 with the tuner would be way cheaper than the G90 with the amp.
Now the real question will be ... G90 + XPA125B or FT-891 at 100 watts. I have the FT-891 in my truck and a G90 (and IC-705) and XPA125B and while the 891 is nice because it's up to 100 watts in one self contained unit, having the XPA125B amp allows me to use it with either radio. Also, going the external amp route, it allows new hams to get into the hobby less expensively and expand as they need. Further, you can do POTA either light (ie just the G90 or 705) or take a radio and amp if you want to go Tim Allen ... MORE POWER! My 2 cents
Back in the day, I had a Lafayette SSB-50, that was converted to 10 meters. I used a Hustler center loaded trunk lip mount antenna on my mom's '77 Olds Cutlass, and worked the world in the early 80's (cycle 21 peaked very high)! I can remember getting 10 over 9 reports in Moscow with 12 watts out! I sat in our driveway for hours, in awe at what I was working! Anywho, there was some damage under the trunk lip where the 2 screws dug in to make the ground connection, but none on top of the hood, since I put a piece of rubber latex there to protect the paint. My mom was such a good sport at the time, allowing the use of her car for my DXing mobile hobby, before I could afford my Subaru 'partymobile'! Great times!
Let me tell you my opinion.
1. Between 20W and 100W is a gain of 1 point per S-meter, so it is not worth consuming electricity for nothing for the portable. The antenna will make the difference between the two.
2. G-90 can also grant a fork and this is a big gain.
3. I would go portable on a transceiver with low energy consumption and the G90 offers this even in FT8.
4. And last but not least is the price, so that we don't forget both transceivers are built with parts made in China.
5. It's up to everyone what transceiver they like, I had Kenwood, now I have Icom, Yaesu but also Xiegu G90 :)
The rest are stories..
Good show Mike! As far as Anderson Power Poles go, I would definitely say to crimp! I have both soldered and crimped with success. However, my dad was a HAM and a lifelong radio, TV and electronics tech from the day I was born. He taught me how to solder when I was 5 years old so, I have 60 years soldering experience. Way too many problems can result from an inexperienced soldering job and the connection is not really any better than crimping. About the only mistake one can make crimping is to not use the proper tool and/or not apply the proper pressure. Of course, too little pressure and the wires will slip out of the connectors. Too much pressure will disfigure the connector and it won't fit in the plastic hood.
I agree with Peter (below) get em both if you can. The 891 is probably one of the best deals in Ham radio, plenty of power and GREAT receiver! The G90 is portable and versatile, also a good radio for backpacking.
You can buff that out. And some touch up paint can hide the grinding marks.
Is crimp AND solder allowed...? YES..! Thanks for taking one for Team Newbie..!
Crimp vs solder, for right gauge wire & connector crimp only. If you feel solder is needed then crimp, then solder. Reason being: crimping forms the wire to the shape of the crimper, the crimper makes the connector fit in the plastic. Another Down side of solder is the heat may cause the insulation to pull back exposing wire behind the plastic part, also soldering may make the connector not fit well into the plastic part.
Very well said.
As far as solder vs crimp goes, you really don't want solder wicking that far up your cable as it will create stress points as the wire flexes and can break easily. IMO, just crimp it and be done, but if you must, solder just the very end of the wire after crimping.
The trick with soldering is not to flow the solder to much you just want it in the tip where its crimped "not flowing down the wire" its where people get caried away you find trouble
I have had more Crimped fittings fail then soldering Funny thing is I just had a Power wire for my FT-891 just fail 4 wires pulled out of the crimp.
Spit and a T-shirt are my go to tools for so many things. I have two Dakota Lithium 7ah batteries which I charge with their 110v charger. In the field I use the PowerFilm 60w foldable solar panel (60 to 90 minutes depending on the sun) and a Buddipole Power Mini controller. Thanks for the video.
I have trunk lip mount mounted vertically, so far no physical damage. I would make sure that your mount will take you antenna load both in weight and size as well as wind load.
I have a G90 and have confirmed contacts with 17 countries from and have worked 42 states so far... no amplifier just 20W, and a dipole in my ATTIC. Mostly on FT8, but several voice contacts with 5-9 or 5-7 reception. Start small, and see what you truly need.
That's pretty darn impressive for 20 watts let alone having your dipole in the attic!
@@hamradiotube Indeed, I hear that comment often when I tell people I am using 20w. Great little radio, and if mobile, it can tune a 102" whip antennae well. The dipole that I am using is a half zs6bkw dipole, so a combination of dipole and ladder wire. DX is on FT8 except Canada and Hawaii, and patience is key for stations to pick you out of the noise floor with the low wattage as it is typically < -15
Great video - I enjoy watching the user submitted questions and the humor. Many HAM youtube channels can come across really dry
Just hit 100 countries and have all 50 states on mine. One of my two g90s has run 24/7 for nearly 3 years, with a few breaks during tropical storms, hurricane threats and other short shutdowns. ZS6BKW antenna at about 25' in a tree next to the house. KN4EBW
As a relatively new "tinkerer" I appreciate this video! I just recently started switching over all my connections to Anderson's and used only solder. Looks like I am going to do some more tinkering and go back through and crimp them instead. I feel in my situation, not using any kind of MFJ bus bar, they will fail even faster. I just swap them when I want to change which radio I am using. Thanks for the video!!
Another vote for the FT891. Just can't beat the price - and the performance. It's an FT450 crammed into an FT857. I use a "overkill" 40-Ah LiFePO4 and a "poor man's" buddipole (two hamsticks fed as a dipole) on my POTA activations, and it works great.
I have a 35AH Mighty Max gel cell in my portable building that I charge with one 100 watt solar Renogy panel on the roof. I can run my G90 all day/all night, even while using my LED light strips at night. That little transceiver is always within one S unit of a 100 watt transceiver. Buy it. Forget about the amplifier, you don't need it.
Though I have never owned one, everything I read and watch about the 891 says it is an amazing transceiver also. Were I to be in the market again for a mobile transceiver, it would be the first thing on my list. Buy it.
Both transceivers are workhorses, no doubt. For what you would have spent on the amp for the G90, save a few more bucks up and buy both both the G90 AND the 891.
That's a great idea. I wish I would have thought of that when making this video. It def makes more sense to buy both radios than it does to buy the amp. And yeah, that 35ah will keep the g90 going forever!
@@hamradiotube Mike, your videos are always well-produced and give plenty of real world useful information. Thanks for all you do for amateur radio, brother!
I too have a G90, FT-891(x2) and an WRC antenna. The G90 has been awesome on FT-8 and I've worked a plethora of DX with it (stock, 20w)... I'm sure I'd have a lot more, if I had a bit more Po to be better heard by all those countries I've seen in the decode screen. Overall, there is no comparison between the two radios. As already alluded to, the G90 is definitely good for what you get, at stock power, but to factor in the cost of an amp, for that money, an FT-891 wins, no question.
A properly crimped wire lug (correct match of wire gauge, lug size AND proper crimper (ie: Aviation grade AMP/Amphenol or die type(~), not the cheap, thin, flat, stamped metal 'crimpers' ) should be sufficient. Issues such as broken strand(s) or total failure will probably arise depending on how much lateral stress (flexing) is placed on the wire where it attaches to the lug. A soldered connection might break more easily where the soldered and unsoldered strands converge, while the non-soldered are a bit more forgiving.
That said, the more proper crimpers are pretty expensive to the casual user/hobbyist, so conservatively soldering connectors will probably aid in conductivity and pull strength. Soldering would also help in more corrosive (high humidity) environments, but there are alternatives like self vulcanizing tape, environmental heat shrink sleeves, or sealants that can be applied to handle that.
Solder vs. Crimp. Oh, the bar fights I've been in over that one. Last night it was the Yaesu Yaehoo's vs. the ChiCom Charlie's. It was Brutal. Us Yaehoo's kicked *ss. I usually just crimp and have had no problems when the right size connector is used with the right sized wire. G-90 vs. FT-891. Well, I have both. The 891 is usually my go to until it's not. Like when I want lighter weight or operating QRP, then the G-90 gets the nod. For that young man, Mike is 100% right, get the 891 and get those CQ's answered. Remember, he who dies with the most radio's wins. He also dies broke. Another great Monday Mailbag Mike !!!
Surprisingly the comments haven't been too bad on the issue. I'd have thought there would have been a keyboard commando war over the whole solder v crimp debate. Oh well. The 891 is sure getting a lot of love though. Rightfully so. The G90 is a cool radio but it's not half the radio as the 891. Not much smaller either. I really do like them both though.
The choice is way easy, Yaesu for the win.
Yeah right. We all know you love your Chinese radios. Who you trying to kid?
@@hamradiotube If the price point matches the quality I buy China. 25 buck bfeng, all day, several hundred dollar HF, nope.
Mikey going to the next level with the crimp-solder experiment! Top notch, Miguel!
Lol, thanks!
I’m a crimp then lightly solder the power pole…type guy. Has been working for almost 30 years.
I still prefer my G90, primarily for cost. I don’t regret buying it for POTA.
My G90 actually did a pretty good job considering it's only 20W, and the tuner could tune a rain gutter if I wanted it to (don't actually do that.) The FT-891, however, for the additional money is definitely worth it. If your budget is tight, the G90 is just fine.
If it white it cause by moisture trap into paint you can get it out with a heat gun go slow not to close to paint and you will see it slowly disappear.
If it looks scratch use a light to medium compound for clear coat finish and take clean rag like old tee shirt and rub it in till scratch are not to visible and then polish the area it should look pretty good after that hope this helps. rob
Mike--I agree with everything you said and for the reasons stated, but I really enjoy your videos for the enthusiasm you demonstrate. Some well renowned YTers (no names!) can come across as cranky or arrogant on occasion but you are always authentic. Keep up the good work!
Well, thank you very much! I appreciate your kind words. You keep watching, I'll keep making. 73
I will keep watching as well. Mike has not stated his solution is the final word on anything, but the result of his experiments and results. Ham radio is a very good place for finding out what works and why more than one path can lead to a good solution for "you" that "I" would not have found.
Having lived through the URI Ice Storm here in Houston, I am moving more towards the QRP/Amp combo. Yes, a little more complexity. But I was using my 703+ during the storm. Why? The 703 uses only 0.5w standby, my 746Pro 26w. On battery power, that could be mission critical in a no power, no gas, at night situation.
I have a Roma 100w amp, and that uses 26w standby.
Now, what would be neat is a QRP rig which could have a docking station for Amp and Tuning.
If my 703 dies, I would go with the 718 due to build quality, and use my amp.
Look at the LAB599 DISCOVERY TX 500
That is a valid point. One that I have made myself in the whole QRP v QRO radio debate.
Yep, pretty sure that has what he's asking for.
@@hamradiotube I would like to have one with the addons, but I would like to stay married more.
The FT-891 blows away the G-90. It's a no-brainer.
How so?
Solder-only ham here, "Captain Murder". Now, if you (or other ham) want to send me a crimper for my birthday (March 3rd), I'll _probably_ use it. On the other hand, I don't swing my radios around by their power cords like an Argentine cowboy on The Pampas with a boleadoro.
G90 Squad here. Please stop joking around with this yeasu nonsene and join the one and only way of G-Core. Who needs 100W? 😁😉 Great video. 73
Lol I've never heard someone speak so proudly of G-Core!
I've been doing electronics since the 60's, made my living at it since the 70's (until retirement recently) and know that crimp then solder gives the best long term reliability both electrically and physically, especially when the connection is exposed to the weather or vibration. And double especially if the person doesn' t get a good crimp (Corrosion is not your friend). Just don't use too much solder where it wicks into the wire past the crimp, otherwise just the good crimp may be better long term.
73 mike N4ONL
Crimping works. If you are using stranded wire the multiple strands allow greater flexibility before something breaks. If you solder it makes the stranded wire a solid wire with one item to break….. think about it. If you’re worried about corrosion crimp and paint with liquid electrical tape. Maintains the flexibility and is more resistant to corrosion.
Soldering gives a better connection.
I know waaay to much about my soldering 'skills' (or lack thereof). So I'm a crimper all the way.
Mike there's not a single soldered joint on any aeroplane flying ! GW6BXU 73
So that's why they keep falling out of the sky lol
Yes, it will buff out. No soldering is used in Airplanes, all joints should be soldered on boats, in Ham use what works for your project, hint, either is fine. What are you going to use the radio for? The 891 is absolutely more versatile. I really do not see these 2 radios as direct competitors.
Thank you. Just a heads up, there isn't a bookmark to separate the trunk mount topic vs the G90/891 topic, its all just under the trunk mount bookmark.
I get the idea that crimp alone is the least labor intensive, and an effective, economical method.
After the last update, G90 has had more filters unlocked.
I have an 891. Use it for FT4/FT8 in the park. I would not use it for base use, my 7300 blows it away.
I used the 891 for my base radio for about a year and it was great. Then I bought a 7300. I still love the 891 but it is now the mobile radio and the 7300 is the POTA radio. 7610 in the shack.
As an electrician, I would never solder a lug or terminal connection.
I would only solder earthing wires (with other earth wires) without lugs or terminals. As a general rule, only solder wires to wires.👍
Well there you go. Here is the definitive proof right here.
Pretty much all cars have nothing but crimped connections and they run a crap load of miles with no failure. Crimp is the way to go, even though I could just sit and solder all day long!
I have a G90 and 2 20ah batteries. Never needed to use the second one. Might use them both if I ever get my ft-857d fixed.
Yeah a 20ah battery for the G90 is huge! If I had an 857 I would get it fixed. That's a sweet radio.
I have both. G90 I would sell my Kidney to keep it.
Now that is a testament to the G90 if I've ever heard one.
“Pay no attention to what’s in the trunk of the MRDr machine”
Move along folks, nothing to see here.
I just hate power pole connectors !
They might need an analyzer to confirm SWR.. 🧐
Yeah, an analyzer will no doubt be a great tool while tuning up the WRC. You don't need one, but it sure makes it easier. If he gets the 891, he'll have money left over for an analyzer too.
hi in the field i use the 891 with a fc 50 wher fild alows 4 antennas fron 1,2mhz to 65mhz 4 small setapu atas 120a 4 home or mobil use 891 with fc40 4 hy powe operation wl1000 with proper antennas 4 batery i use a olt soviet army wood box wich it waz made 4 , 10 peace 12v 20 batery replaced wit litium paks 5 of them in paralel abour50 amps smal esey to cary 4 a2 day work 4 the antenna mount on my wehicle i have a defender 90 have 2 long andennas in nwiz config 4 the 1.5kw yasu amplifier and atas 120a in the back also on a mount bolted to chasy
Crimp then solder
how about testing current and voltage drop on equal loads and voltage source crimp vs solder? (hi from XF3)
I know you have a crimping tool can you tell us what brand it is. Thanks
Hey i want to learn about radio transmitters and all this stuff where can i do this thing ?
SoLder, soLder not soDDer!! 😁
But with the rest I agree 100%👌
Sometimes you find out later. Yep
Sounds like you've done that too lol!
Open both of this rigs I prefer the g90 for I had made many contactsfrom ny to northern Italy without no sweat are foot and it is put together by Chinese but the made the g90 in Sweden n2Qcui gotten good reports from the USA also
Polishing compound.
good advice
I see you using the FT891 on POTA, what battery do you use and how do you charge it? Also I am considering the BlueTTI AC180 for a power source. What do you think of that? I see very little on using a power source for transceiver. Does power supply noise have anything to do with that? KO4WTQ
Oh boy, that is a vast topic I've covered extensively on the channel. Here's my battery playlist: th-cam.com/video/87HW1zkD0is/w-d-xo.html Short answer is usually some size Bioenno LiFePO4 battery charged with some type of Bioenno charger or a HiTec charger. I know not the BluTTI you are asking about. As far as power supplies go, get one from a reputable radio dealer and you shouldn't have to worry about noise.
Good ole Mike, always down to rub one out 🤣
Someone's gotta do it. Might as well be me.
@@hamradiotube I couldn't think of a better man to do so
I'm disappointed from the G90.
Died after 1¾ years without any reason.
"Holy smoke" if I put battery on it.
Crimp AND solder
Great show. Why do you guys say soder when it is spelt "s o l d e r" what happeneed to the L? 2 syllables sol-der
Same reason you guys say Al-you-minium when it's spelled Aluminum. Pronounced Ah-loo-min-um. There's only one "I" yet here we are :)
Mike, will be selling the Geek Boxes without the batteries???
Probably. I need to figure out the price though.
@@hamradiotube Excellent. Let us know.
Yaesu FT-891 👍
Xiegug90 has decoder tunerand 20wattsi own theft70drand the Favre-6ri love all my rigs late around I will get me the ic7300 bye good bye73s
you get what you pay for,
I have both the g90 and the ft891 got the 891 for 599 on sale
On 11/26/22 ( KQ4AHR )
It's too bad everything is going up in price these days. I got my 891 a few years ago for $599 plus R&L threw in a power supply for free.
ATAS120A>Tarheel?
I want to be clear, they are both fantastic antennas. But, in my tests, which I did a video on, the ATAS beat the Little Tarheel II.
I been considering getting the G90 as a starter HF Transceiver after I pass the general, but the other yeasu oe other brands are like a arm and a leg, I even heard sh** from old boomer hammers who talk sh** about using Cheap radios and berate new techs, 73 KQ4HCU
Crimp And Solder….
Amaetur
+1 for ft891
Yeah buddy!
Thanks so much for taking my question Mike! Your answer was very helpful. I hope others found the same.
73 de VE3GKT!
Awesome, glad to help. Thanks for writing in!