Cheers buddy, I successfully fitted one using the second option wood drill bit, just to add that at the beginning I slow sped the bit in reverse which gently got thru the top finish first, more as a scoring action to prevent any tear away. My sharp bit actually got in a couple MM in reverse, creating a nice starting point for the then slow forward drilling.
Refining by definition is fine tuning... It is common practice to chuck an endpin reamer into a power drill. Obviously like all delicate tasks a certain level of common sense and skill are preferable.
With Stewmac being the obvious industry benchmark, but respectively priced way higher than DIYers would likely be willing to spend, do you have any opinion on the reamers on Amazon that are fraction of the price? As someone who isn't going to do it professionally, maybe using only a few times on on what may be a sub 300.00 guitars, I can't justify spending 1/3 of the value of the guitar on a part.
Find a MT0 or MT1 Morse taper reamer. They are 3° (1:20) reamers, suitable to ream an end pin hole if you are careful. They can be picked up second hand from Marketplace quite cheap sometimes.
I currently have a endpin jack on my acoustic guitar wired to an active pickup. I really dislike this location especially because my instrument cables are all straight (don’t have 90 degree elbow) therefore if I have my acoustic plugged into my amp I can’t prop the guitar upright against the corner wall of the room, or even set it on it’s stand, because the instrument cable interferes with the bottom of the instrument. I was wondering if it would make sense to drill a completely new hole at a 45 degree angle on the instrument, similarly to where the instrument jack would exist on a fender strat (but still on the edge of the guitar, not the front). It’s an Alvarez acoustic and it is very special to me. I’m afraid drilling a new hole there might compromise the integrity of the guitar, and I just wanted to ask an expert before I arbitrarily drill a 45 degree hole to relocate the jack. Any input?
We put the end pin jack were we do, typically, because there is a tail block reinforcing it. If you put it in the side of the guitar only you have a 1/8" of tearable wood between you and a big hole/crack should the cord get stepped on.
That big split out looks like someone pulling the drill bit out with force. No care. I've seen drill bits tear out small fibers near the hole, never a huge section like this
There should already be a strap button hole pre drilled on most acoustic guitars. I use a small paddle bit judiciously until i get the right dimensions for the stew mac reaming bit. Just think before you do,and do not rush the process. A little blue masking tape over the hole helps from maring and splitting around the end pin hole. .maybe a very light lube,like graphite dust on the end pin jack. The hardest one i ever did was a gibson cherry red sunburst humming bird. What friggin mess,red mahogany dust and shavings. They must dyed the guitar inside out. Just ridiculous.
Cheers buddy, I successfully fitted one using the second option wood drill bit, just to add that at the beginning I slow sped the bit in reverse which gently got thru the top finish first, more as a scoring action to prevent any tear away.
My sharp bit actually got in a couple MM in reverse, creating a nice starting point for the then slow forward drilling.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Great video, thank you. It's so import to choose the right tools first or give it to a pro like yourself. The guitar you save may be your own! Cheers!
A rearmer is not for refining, its for fine tuning a hole, always use it by hand, never in a drill.
This one is designed for a drill and its how I drilled holes for output jacks at a high end manufacturer for 3 years. It's never been a problem.
Refining by definition is fine tuning... It is common practice to chuck an endpin reamer into a power drill. Obviously like all delicate tasks a certain level of common sense and skill are preferable.
With Stewmac being the obvious industry benchmark, but respectively priced way higher than DIYers would likely be willing to spend, do you have any opinion on the reamers on Amazon that are fraction of the price? As someone who isn't going to do it professionally, maybe using only a few times on on what may be a sub 300.00 guitars, I can't justify spending 1/3 of the value of the guitar on a part.
I wish I did. Reamers in general are expensive tools no matter where you get them.
Find a MT0 or MT1 Morse taper reamer. They are 3° (1:20) reamers, suitable to ream an end pin hole if you are careful. They can be picked up second hand from Marketplace quite cheap sometimes.
I currently have a endpin jack on my acoustic guitar wired to an active pickup. I really dislike this location especially because my instrument cables are all straight (don’t have 90 degree elbow) therefore if I have my acoustic plugged into my amp I can’t prop the guitar upright against the corner wall of the room, or even set it on it’s stand, because the instrument cable interferes with the bottom of the instrument.
I was wondering if it would make sense to drill a completely new hole at a 45 degree angle on the instrument, similarly to where the instrument jack would exist on a fender strat (but still on the edge of the guitar, not the front).
It’s an Alvarez acoustic and it is very special to me. I’m afraid drilling a new hole there might compromise the integrity of the guitar, and I just wanted to ask an expert before I arbitrarily drill a 45 degree hole to relocate the jack.
Any input?
We put the end pin jack were we do, typically, because there is a tail block reinforcing it. If you put it in the side of the guitar only you have a 1/8" of tearable wood between you and a big hole/crack should the cord get stepped on.
That big split out looks like someone pulling the drill bit out with force. No care. I've seen drill bits tear out small fibers near the hole, never a huge section like this
There is a a veneer there and thin wood. Thats why it's risky.
What size bit?
Whatever lets you get the reamer in there.
There should already be a strap button hole pre drilled on most acoustic guitars. I use a small paddle bit judiciously until i get the right dimensions for the stew mac reaming bit. Just think before you do,and do not rush the process. A little blue masking tape over the hole helps from maring and splitting around the end pin hole. .maybe a very light lube,like graphite dust on the end pin jack. The hardest one i ever did was a gibson cherry red sunburst humming bird. What friggin mess,red mahogany dust and shavings. They must dyed the guitar inside out. Just ridiculous.
Id be careful with the tape as it can help lift away damaged finish.
You saved my 000 Martin. I was going to drill into the end block but I thought I'd do a search first ..... good thing I did - thank you😊