I am amazed and honored by how much advice you have given me. Only a good man does that. Luckily for me I have a very long list of people like you, wonderful people I have made as friends on this channel. And you are already on this list. Maybe they seem big words but thanks to you I am a happy man.I will follow all the technical advice you gave me. THANK YOU VERY MUCH !
I did not see how you set the angle on the compound , but I think you went by the degree mark..... if you have a Morse Cone [Taper] like on your drilling chuck , you can chuck up the chuck in the lathe, and have the Morse Cone [taper] going away from chuck......then put a dial indicator on the tool holder or compound slide, put the tip of indicator on the taper, set the angle on the degree marks for approximate angle, then move the compound in and out and set the actual angle when you read 0 runout on the indicator. this way, you have an exact copy of factory taper/cone.......I hope you can understand, there are TH-cam videos showing this procedure......best wishes, Pauli
yes, you asked for any advice, if you bring back your tool 3:07 closer to the tool holder, you can minimize vibration...... I only have hanging out far when I need to get closer to the depth......I hope this may helps you.....Paul
I have a slightly different opinion about that for an home machinist, these arbors need to be very straight so better to buy them already done, after all , it is the base for all works to come and for standard cones as MT2,3,4 , R8 and JT6 and33, they are very cheap so if your machine have standard cone attachement, you,re better to buy them However, I can say that you done a very good job on that
Surely there is this option to buy these tools but what I can't buy is the satisfaction of achieving something alone and especially of conversing with you and those like you about our own ideas. Money can't buy that. It's worth too much . Thank you very much for your comment !
Looks great, I have the use angle blocks or something similar to get my angles right, I see you just going off the gage on the lathe, glad it worked out. Thanks
I know ”exactly” where the position for the required angle is from the old projects where I used measuring devices. The perfect realization of the angle 1 29' 30'' is anyway impossible to measure for me, but I'm close. Thank you very much for your comment and appreciation !
NIce work, You could have placed the turning tool for the morse taper in the back of the tool holder. That would move the carriage forward allowing for a shorter tail centre to be used and may reduce deflection and vibrations.
@@UnderearthEDO That's certainly what I would have done if I had a normal lathe. Unfortunately, the movements of my lathe are very limited due to the milling table, that's why I made this setup. Thank you for your comment !
Not sure what you mean by vibrations, Chatter maybe? I just ran into a nasty piece that should have been 410 stainless but was hard, tough and wouldn’t finish. Keep everything as close, tight and solid as possible, keep the tool short especially. Running way out at the end of the compound travel will let it flex enough to chatter. I have two lock screws on the lathe at work, when I use it I make sure they are just loose enough to slide well and locked down solid when I don’t. Use a tool with a small nose radius.
I have only turned a couple of MT3 tapers so I'm no expert but I believe you should finish them with emery and blue the taper to check its fit as its very difficult to feel any misalignment but it can cause the chuck to slip in use, especially large holding chucks like that. Very nice job but I would recommend you take the time to check it
Unfortunately for me, the cone tapers of the milling machine and tailstock are no longer as they were on the first day so that I can use them as a reference. Someday I will buy an MT3 reamer and I will rectify them and then I will use your method. I may be not be happy with the result :) but it really is the best way to check. Thank you for your comment and for the suggestion !
@@campbellmorrison8540 Is it true that they are very expensive? What I found is almost 200 us dollars (MT3) without shipping costs, which makes me put off buying them.
I have the same lathe and mine would never cut a taper angle accurately enough using just the degree scale. I found the best way to set the angle was to press the tool rest against an existing taper held between centers. Just have to make sure your tool post is perfectly Square to cross slide and no run out in the taper held between centers.
Jimmy I've stopped this right at the beginning, I've noticed that you always seem to put your centre drill in the end of the work before you face it off. This is considered very bad practice because any deviation in the end of the part can cause non concentricity in the centre hole. ALWAYS face the end before centre drilling the part. I used to be a metalwork teacher 40 years ago and that was always standard practice.. if you watch other machinists on TH-cam you will see that happening always. Right I will watch the rest now!
well, in my expirnece even with a 3-jawed chuck, i have to center the rouynd stock in it before i start, i noticed when you started it was already wabbling. maybe if you centerted the part before starting that may have helped? just a possible idea.
Yes, I definitely should have done that in the beginning. It's a rule I always forget, especially as I needed to do this now. This may be a big mistake. Thank you very much for your comment !
Yes, it's a good idea, but I was afraid that it might deform from the temperature. Anyway, it's a hard steel and I don't think it will ever deform under the demands of my small lathe. Do you think I can do it now and finish with scotch brite without risking it getting deformed ? Thank you sir !
My tailstock can't use a normal live center because my lathe has a milling table, thats why I have to use ”my long live center” ( if you want see my an old episode when I built it ) which beacause of its lenght is not very rigid to use your method. Otherwise, your method is good and is used often, but unfortunately I cannot use it. Thank you very much for your comment !
@@JIMMY916 The tolerance you achieved was quite good working with your long live center. In my experience, most precision tooling is ground to specifications (minimizing tool pressure). Even when machining in an ideal setup, it takes careful attention to detail to get as good as you did; IMHO you should be proud of your accomplishment.
Yes, i'm proud that someone appreciates what I do. Yes, I'm proud when someone sends me their idea and opinion in comments or likes. With you I become proud. And I hope to become a good machinist to reward your time. Thank you sir !
I see your loyal companion is still sleeping on the concrete floor. Could management consider up grading his position and provide a soft bedding for his poor old bones.
I really like the extended live center you have made, I have never thought of that....I will have to make one as there are times I want the tail stock to be further away.....thank you... and I really like the 'Pauli Mot' tool holder.......Paulie Brown
another helpful thing you can make, since you are very good at making tools, is a cup shape with cutouts to match the inner crank handle of your compound slide, attach a rod to the closed part of the cup [centered] so you can put in a hand held drill, [similar to the way a hole saw looks] this way, you can evenly turn the compound to get a smoother finish...... I hope this will make sense to you......
I love your videos, and really appreciate the work you put into them, best wishes from Florida, USA, Paul
I am amazed and honored by how much advice you have given me. Only a good man does that. Luckily for me I have a very long list of people like you, wonderful people I have made as friends on this channel. And you are already on this list. Maybe they seem big words but thanks to you I am a happy man.I will follow all the technical advice you gave me. THANK YOU VERY MUCH !
@@JIMMY916 Best Wishes Jimmy, Paul in Florida.......
I did not see how you set the angle on the compound , but I think you went by the degree mark.....
if you have a Morse Cone [Taper] like on your drilling chuck , you can chuck up the chuck in the lathe,
and have the Morse Cone [taper] going away from chuck......then put a dial indicator on the tool holder
or compound slide, put the tip of indicator on the taper, set the angle on the degree marks for approximate angle,
then move the compound in and out and set the actual angle when you read 0 runout on the indicator.
this way, you have an exact copy of factory taper/cone.......I hope you can understand, there are TH-cam
videos showing this procedure......best wishes, Pauli
yes, you asked for any advice, if you bring back your tool 3:07 closer to the tool holder, you can minimize vibration......
I only have hanging out far when I need to get closer to the depth......I hope this may helps you.....Paul
Great job, nice pants! 😃👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you ! I've been ready for the beach for almost a month. But don't tell anyone that, please. My wife doesn't need to know.
you are doing what I would do. great job!
Thank you!
I have a slightly different opinion about that for an home machinist,
these arbors need to be very straight so better to buy them already done, after all , it is the base for all works to come and for standard cones as MT2,3,4 , R8 and JT6 and33, they are very cheap so if your machine have standard cone attachement, you,re better to buy them
However, I can say that you done a very good job on that
Surely there is this option to buy these tools but what I can't buy is the satisfaction of achieving something alone and especially of conversing with you and those like you about our own ideas. Money can't buy that. It's worth too much . Thank you very much for your comment !
Morse tapers are easy to make with electronic leadscrew and cross slide :)
Good ideea! :))
Looks great, I have the use angle blocks or something similar to get my angles right, I see you just going off the gage on the lathe, glad it worked out. Thanks
I know ”exactly” where the position for the required angle is from the old projects where I used measuring devices. The perfect realization of the angle 1 29' 30'' is anyway impossible to measure for me, but I'm close. Thank you very much for your comment and appreciation !
NIce work, You could have placed the turning tool for the morse taper in the back of the tool holder. That would move the carriage forward allowing for a shorter tail centre to be used and may reduce deflection and vibrations.
@@UnderearthEDO That's certainly what I would have done if I had a normal lathe. Unfortunately, the movements of my lathe are very limited due to the milling table, that's why I made this setup. Thank you for your comment !
Not sure what you mean by vibrations, Chatter maybe?
I just ran into a nasty piece that should have been 410 stainless but was hard, tough and wouldn’t finish.
Keep everything as close, tight and solid as possible, keep the tool short especially.
Running way out at the end of the compound travel will let it flex enough to chatter. I have two lock screws on the lathe at work, when I use it I make sure they are just loose enough to slide well and locked down solid when I don’t.
Use a tool with a small nose radius.
This is a new free lesson on how to improve my machinist skills. Yes, I'm still learning and I'm not ashamed to admit it. Thank you very much !
I have only turned a couple of MT3 tapers so I'm no expert but I believe you should finish them with emery and blue the taper to check its fit as its very difficult to feel any misalignment but it can cause the chuck to slip in use, especially large holding chucks like that. Very nice job but I would recommend you take the time to check it
Unfortunately for me, the cone tapers of the milling machine and tailstock are no longer as they were on the first day so that I can use them as a reference. Someday I will buy an MT3 reamer and I will rectify them and then I will use your method. I may be not be happy with the result :) but it really is the best way to check. Thank you for your comment and for the suggestion !
@@JIMMY916 Yes I purchased a reamer set from China, they take a bit to get started but they are pretty good
@@campbellmorrison8540 Is it true that they are very expensive? What I found is almost 200 us dollars (MT3) without shipping costs, which makes me put off buying them.
I have the same lathe and mine would never cut a taper angle accurately enough using just the degree scale. I found the best way to set the angle was to press the tool rest against an existing taper held between centers. Just have to make sure your tool post is perfectly Square to cross slide and no run out in the taper held between centers.
Our lathe is quite different from the others and puts our imagination and skill to the test quite a bit.
Jimmy I've stopped this right at the beginning, I've noticed that you always seem to put your centre drill in the end of the work before you face it off. This is considered very bad practice because any deviation in the end of the part can cause non concentricity in the centre hole. ALWAYS face the end before centre drilling the part. I used to be a metalwork teacher 40 years ago and that was always standard practice.. if you watch other machinists on TH-cam you will see that happening always. Right I will watch the rest now!
You are right. I will correct this. Now I realize that is totally wrong. Thank you Sam for the advices.
well, in my expirnece even with a 3-jawed chuck, i have to center the rouynd stock in it before i start, i noticed when you started it was already wabbling. maybe if you centerted the part before starting that may have helped? just a possible idea.
Yes, I definitely should have done that in the beginning. It's a rule I always forget, especially as I needed to do this now. This may be a big mistake. Thank you very much for your comment !
I would have left a few thousand on the spindle and then heat treated and ground it to size. I feel this would provide a good result.
Yes, it's a good idea, but I was afraid that it might deform from the temperature. Anyway, it's a hard steel and I don't think it will ever deform under the demands of my small lathe. Do you think I can do it now and finish with scotch brite without risking it getting deformed ? Thank you sir !
You could have put a dead center in the 3 jaw chuck and keep concentricity by turning between centers, no?
My tailstock can't use a normal live center because my lathe has a milling table, thats why I have to use ”my long live center” ( if you want see my an old episode when I built it ) which beacause of its lenght is not very rigid to use your method. Otherwise, your method is good and is used often, but unfortunately I cannot use it. Thank you very much for your comment !
@@JIMMY916 The tolerance you achieved was quite good working with your long live center. In my experience, most precision tooling is ground to specifications (minimizing tool pressure). Even when machining in an ideal setup, it takes careful attention to detail to get as good as you did; IMHO you should be proud of your accomplishment.
Yes, i'm proud that someone appreciates what I do. Yes, I'm proud when someone sends me their idea and opinion in comments or likes. With you I become proud. And I hope to become a good machinist to reward your time. Thank you sir !
I see your loyal companion is still sleeping on the concrete floor. Could management consider up grading his position and provide a soft bedding for his poor old bones.
To my shame I didn't think of that. Thank you both for the idea !
I really like the extended live center you have made, I have never thought of that....I will have to make one
as there are times I want the tail stock to be further away.....thank you...
and I really like
the 'Pauli Mot' tool holder.......Paulie Brown
another helpful thing you can make, since you are very good at making tools,
is a cup shape with cutouts to match the inner crank handle of your compound slide,
attach a rod to the closed part of the cup [centered] so you can put in a hand held
drill, [similar to the way a hole saw looks]
this way, you can evenly turn the compound to get a smoother finish......
I hope this will make sense to you......
those Cones are really tight......well done.....