I put some cheap $1.99 5w30 oil in my 07 Outback after I discovered it was low on oil. I changed the oil about a thousand miles later. About two weeks after I changed the oil, on my way home today my car threw the P0026 code. The engine idled fine and didn't seem to run rough or anything. I took the solenoid out of the passenger side bank and saw that it was spotless, but the little hole at the bottom was plugged up. I cleaned out the solenoid and made sure it moved freely and also took a look inside the mounting hole to see if there was any crud build up. It looked clean to me. I also cleaned the PCV valve since it was stuck open (found my oil consumption issue lol). So just to be safe I cleaned the other bank and sure enough the solenoid was dirty to. Never in the 6 years of owning my Outback have I ever run into this issue, I've also never run crappy oil through my car. I've always used name brand synthetic oil or conventional oil, the one time I was in a pinch to get to work and it bit me. It seems like this is a common issue with newer cars since the internet is littered with complaints regarding this code.
Proper maintenance alleviates so many problems especially on VVT emgines. Low dirty oil wreaks havoc on them causing premature wear on crank & cam bearings & pumps reducing oil pressure, clogging VVT screens and causing premature VVT component failures. I put only Mobil 1 in my customer engines & use Mobil 1 Extended Performance in all my vehicles. Hopefully she'll be a new customer and she'll have an outstanding mech/tech caring for her vehicle.
Yes you are absolutely correct I just did it on my wife’s car which is a 2010 Subaru Forrester she went to work call me telling me that the car stopped on her multiple times but she was able to drive 20+ miles an hour she came home and I took it for a test drive , and I noticed the RPM was so low and that’s why I was killing the car my wife’s car is a five speed manual just like the one in the video it was due for an oil change did that and the car runs fine 👍 I am planning to do the spark plugs next
Preventive Maintenance , What is that? The salesman told me the vehicle is maintenance free. Gas and go is the way to go. Hats off to the disposable society we live in. You can pay me a little now or a lot later. Ok, I am back, nice video Ivan.
As a former Subaru tech, I can tell you without reservation that these VVT solonoids will not take dirty oil for very long ! I tell people to use high quality synthetic oil and a high end oil filter that is designed for synthetic oil. I've seen people come to the shop and drop 1200 bucks on a VVT problem :( Change the oil every 5000 miles to be safe !
I run my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 powered Holden Commodore with Nulon 10W40 multigrade fulll synthetic oil & I change it every 10,000 kilometres or 6 months whichever comes first,it runs cleaner than the semi synthetic oil. I'd say that's the Subaru EJ25 engine, those boxer engines go forever if you service them properly because my brother has got over 402,000 kilometres on his although it has had the cylinder heads rebuilt twice firstly due to the fact the first owner couldn't afford the $1000+AUD timing belt change on the EJ20 engine which means it snapped then the valves got bent. Secondly,my brother runs it on LP gas meaning it had severe valve seat recession then dropped a valve which my cousins partner fixed up as he's a Subaru mechanic,he got the cylinder heads rebuilt with new valves, valve seats & springs fitted. I recently found that it has an air leak at the throttle body butterfly input shaft which only becomes apparent when the engine has fully warmed up,when it's cold it will idle at its 750 RPM but as it warms up it will rise up to about 1100 RPMs then it will start surging so I ordered another throttle body for it on eBay. It was sucking air in through here :- qph.fs.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-4f83c26bd019cdc161a63c25a0bbcf8f I found that by slowly tipping a jug of water over the throttle body input shaft, it's worn out the aluminium housing !
That sure was burnt oil. I'm changing the oil in the Jetta this week. almost 7 quarts of 0-40 European spec. Thanks for the video which I enjoyed watching during my lunch in the work van. Have a super day.
@@420visiont-_- does your forester have low idle rpm? I recently bought one (same year) and I noticed mine does. Drives great just not sure if it’s normal
@@cuselacrosse1 did you get that sorted out? Mind drops low, then rumbles/shakes a little and goes back to idling Normal. In a red light it could do it up to 3 times.
In hight school I worked at Q-Lube. It's crazy just how many people neglect the the most basic of things. I'd say about 10-20% of the cars I'd drain would have sludge in them. And most of the cars had less than 70k miles.
Hey Ivan, great video. I see this all the time. Pretty common Subaru problem. More often on the turbo models. 5K is the maximum OCI I go with on the cars with AVCS. The solenoids are easy enough to get to to (only the STI/new WRX has them on the exhaust side) for a quick pull and clean. I've had very good luck pulling them out and hitting them with some of Eric O's favorite brake cleaner to degunk them on neglected cars. Sometimes an oil change won't get all the crud out. Watch out for the screen in the feed lines on the older turbo models too. There's a TSB on removing those. They get plugged/crushed easily. Newer than 07/08 doesn't have them. It's common enough that Subaru sells an oil flush product specifically for these codes. I don't usually go that route though.
Instead of a reminder sticker , there should be like a small baseball bat device that wacks the driver in the head and says I need an oil change , that way the oil would be changed regularly.
Good grief. That's kind of sad but my mom was the same way. She went though a few engines in her day because she never check the coolant level. I enjoyed the video because sometimes it can be just that easy.
Ivan, the issue with this Forster and other Subaru models from 2009- 2015 is extreme engine oil consumption, there has been many complaints and class action law suits. tell your wife's co-worker to top off regularly.
The oil consumption problems really started with the introduction of the FB series (chain drive) engines in 2011. The late series EJ engines up to 2010 weren't known for oil consumption issues.
@@HollomanUFOLanding The EJ engines had issues with piston slap and oil consumption, its all over the Subaru forums. My 07 Outback uses about a half a quart every 2k miles, my 09 forester would use about the same amount.
+Beau C I bet 95% of car owners don't check their oil between oil changes. But neglecting oil changes is still a big no-no! Maybe they thought that oil change reminder sticker was just for decoration?
Excellent Video! Great example of just drive it til it won't go. I have had suburu's go for 300k, but always with regular oil changes, hope they learned from this...Thanks Ivan.
the regular public tends to blame the makers of cars for their problems, when in reality they are at fault for not maintaining their vehicles! they are always smarter than the techs, lol!
Yeah, pretty common. This used to happen to me on my Honda V6, two quarts low = limp home mode. Just ran into a neighbor two weeks ago whose Volvo S40 "wouldn't go." Turns out he only had two quarts in the crankcase = limp home mode. Nice job Ivan.
traveling mechanic, oil change in the field means crawling under the vehicle. Proper disposal of used oil and filter EPA regs.good job. I still say pickup truck and covered trailer would make your life much easier. Trust me
These engines are vulnareble for driving short distances and dirty oil. So perform a good motor flush and fill her up with indeed full synth .NEVER fill a dirty engine with fresh oil. Now both solenoids are clogged up so remove them and rinse them good. It is a common problem for Subaru's. Change the oil at least every year before wintertime.
Yea, auto parts stores shouldn't be clearing codes... They aren't mechanics. BUT at least they told her and she kept in mind what codes they cleared out for you. That generation Subaru (at least on my 09 Legacy) had a way to get the diag codes through the odometer.
I seen the right bank jump up to 200.. and then the right bank completely dropped out when you were driving. So the issue is in the right bank for sure. Maybe just a loose wire/ connector.
So i have an 06 Forester non turbo. I have had issues like the customer described, every time after clearing codes or disconnecting the battery, the computer needs to relearn the throttle position. Works every time, turn key on without starting for 20-30 sec, then start with all accessories off and let idle for 3-5 min without touching the throttle, turn engine off and wait 10-20 sec, turn key on without starting engine, wait 20-30 sec, turn engine on with all accessories off and let idle of 8-10 min. all good to go. no other issues after that. Now, I have been told the computer will relearn the throttle position by just driving normal, however, this has never worked for mine. It would stall when ever you came to a stop, until I did the relearn procedure above.
Air/Fuel ratio sensors. I had this same problem. Idle dip, rough idle.. took a long time to store a code even with the engine running rough. Changed primary and secondary o2 sensors.. problem solved.
Hi I wonder if on these models they have filter screen in the banjos bolts for the oil supply to the camshafts adjuster solenoid I know on a 2009 WRX there is two of these filters obviously if the oil and filter quality is low and the oil service is not done properly then there is a chance for this to append . I for myself I'm chasing the same problem on a customers car I did an oil change with a oil flush but it did not help and remove the banjo bolt filter that supplies the turbocharger and bank one timing and it wasn't dirty my next step is to remove the solenoid and see if it's dirty or just replace it with a good use one or a new one if that doesn't work then is to remove the intake cam pulley an inspect it an clean it similar to what Eric did on GM 4 cylinder pick up I did the same you did road tested it with my diagnostic tool and found that Bank 1 & 2 did not match in percentage so I know there is something wrong the fault would take a long time to pop up and sometimes not.
Just did the head gaskets and had p0028 andp0016,18, on my customers 07 tribeca, there was a magnet in the oil pan full of particles and gunk it was easy to clean also on the reset of the heads there are some pencil eraser size screens that also had gunk on them affecting the rear solenoids , mine had the 2 rear solenoids with oil pressure sensors and the two larger front solenoids which never looked too dirty but yea remove the entire valve and switch from the rear of heads to clean that tiny filter screen
Whenever you clear the engine codes, the next time you start the engine, hold it in the ON position for about 10 seconds, then start. Should start right away, otherwise it will only crank, like it did for the lady.
I know im late to the party, but one thing that is an easy check is the oil pressure switch too...those suckers are notoriously prone to crappin out and what bugs me is that the pressure switch is a requirement to provide good data to the ecm. But for whatever reason most of the repair steps dont even bother checking it
+ManicMechanic007 That's because people treat cars like appliances. Zero maintenance and just buy a new disposable replacement when it breaks. Sad really.
The same thing in my Subaru Forester 2009 XT Turbo, 72,000 miles: lighting Check Engine + Cruise Control + Traction Control, some times the motor was shut down + code P0011 was present. Applied motor flush, oil change (5w/30) and new oil filter, also two solenoid valves were changed (the filter-screen wasn't in the two banjo bolts). The 3 lights disappeared for some days, but then they came back, then the motor sometimes was shut off when it change to Reverse. So, the throttle body was cleaned and then 3 lights disappeared (again) but, they came back in two days; so far the car only has gone shut off once (while put Reverse) and the code P0011 persists. Any idea to solve this trouble??? Thanks !
Wow cool, an oil change did the job! I change my oils every 6 months and we drive less than 5,000 miles in that time span, typically about 1,200 miles or less. Mobile 1 High Mileage Oils and OEM or Napa Platinum filters.
You're wasting your money. lol.. You could easily go 6k miles on that oil. You're saying that you would have changed your oil 5 times by then. That's crazy.
From everything I'm seeing and reading, these Subarus are relatively trouble-free for hundreds of thousands of miles if you just maintain them properly.
I am a new driver and bought an old car from a local dealer. Now I found that this car has a gasket and wheel bearing issue. Is it worth fixing the head gasket and timing component in the 2010 Subaru Forester(150000 Kms)? or Trade?
"My Husband Ivan fixes cars on TH-cam" how convenient, huh? LOL! Engines and transmissions share many of the same properties; their oils: lubricate, help transfer _excess_ heat away, and actuate hydraulic mechanisms. Dirty, thinned-out oils will kill anything that relies on them for hydraulics. I would've added 1 quart of kerosene, changed filter, and idle 15-20 minutes _before_ the regular service. Take both used filters home, label with marker, and cut open for video part 2, and advise the Customer to watch the video. Without a flush- I can almost guarantee the new filter is 1/4 plugged after 50 miles- because most synthetics really clean internals well.
Willem Streutgers Actually- kerosene is good for power cleaning, with the attended vehicle, and only used for 15-20 then drained. In this case- I'd change the filter, add 1 quart of *plain cheap ATF* and let her drive it 2 days- then do the normal service. ATF is less aggressive. Don't forget- the "average" filter holds roughly 1 quart- so after changing the first filter, the 1 quart of ATF would not dangerously overfill the engine. That engine is worth the small cost now.
Recently i got the same code P0026 i checked my oil and the level was fine but it was really burnt (black) but i decided to change my solenoid but that didnt seem to help and what the car does is it gets stuck at 40000 rpms and wont go higher , and idea of whats going on? Thank you!
I have the same problem, rough idle miss fire. It was nothing to do with the oil or filter. Our guess is the ignition coils as the spark plugs were changed last service. Also air filter is clean just in case I will throw that in there as well.
If you have an extended warranty ....get it to Subaru ...it they give you a hard time (lies) call the customer service # in your manual. Google the issues hundreds of people have been having with their cars (sport and suv)
2010 Subaru forester in year 2020-21. Less than 80k headgasket rebuilt. Two water pump's catalytic converter replaced with complete exhaust from converter to engine?engine fan and ac fan not working, now after almost 4 k in about a year, now pistons sound hard on warm day start. I'm literally cursed.
why the fuck cant people change there oil now a days? oil changes are cheep engines ARE NOT CHEEP, i dont care what the company says. 5k MILES TOPS EVEN SYNTHETIC, yes the oil CAN go longer, but the detergents in the oil can NOT go longer. man is this ever frustrating as a tech
People on the whole are lazy procrastinators and would rather spend the money on cheap shiney ornaments or crappy air fresheners to cover up the cigarette (or pot) smells lol
It is far worse than what he is talking about .....look at all the complaints since 2007 through 20013 then just as big of issues with the 20014 and 2015. If you start with a power steering leak and have warranty.......get it to a dealer. Their limit is 60K and my son first changed the oil at 1000 miles and every 3000 after that. It is not a warn engine it is the connected components to the steering ...power train....long block....radiator ....transmission. Google it.....it is true.....it happened to us. Thank God above that it was in the dealer's hands when it blew apart. We got a new short block and reworked valves...etc...etc. The stall problem is when you should take it to the dealer......if you have a warranty or they are the ones it blows-up on.....2015 wrx
clayton betts .....they used to have the water temp and oil pressure gauges in cars and if you wanted rpm you (mostly guys) had them added (not dash available). Now you have rpm (boo) and nothing about water temp or oil pressure.....have to depend on idiot lights....then it may be too late.Boo to the idiots who build cars today.
There's no coolant temp on the instrument cluster?????????? Odd, considering subarus are known for their headgasket failure which can overheat the car.
lol Subaru dose not want you to know the coolant temp status so that way by the time the warning light comes on its too late damage already done :P it is stupid i agree I mean heck my 2012 Nissan sentra has a temp gauge its one of the main gauges on the vehicle and most other vehicles iv had have that gauge.
+Matthew sourtzis Really. Subaru dont want you to know the engine temp. Oh come on. Subaru like other high end manufacturers have realised that most idiots driving never look at the guages until the car starts performing poorly. its not until then they look at the guage to see if they are out of fuel and notice the temp guage is pegged high. The concept of a light coming on that is set at a pre determined temp that is before boiling point and that a light coming on will get your attention.... I have changed more head gaskets than i care to remember and 99% of my customers could not tell me what the temperature was 5 minutes prior to noticing the temp guage was showing hot!!!!!! Manufacturers are not hiding anything.
Agreed, they aren't hiding anything. People are dumb and they don't look at the gauges or don't know what they do anyways so it's just left off. Temp gauges aren't real anyways, generally speaking in most cars the temp gauge is "in the middle" from something stupid like 170* till like 220*, then it starts moving. With a gauge that "fake" a light will do just fine. Now very old cars didn't have this and you could see the gauge move a bit while going up a hill or stopping, but not anymore.... it's designed to look as steady as possible even during mild overheating.
Man that oil is gross. You know I love Subaru's. I'm thinking of buying one with a blown head gasket for nothing and repairing it. But damn those Boxer engines are a little fragile and need to be well looked after. You've got like double the failure potential on these for vvt cams. Not to mention that nasty oil probably didn't do the head gasket any good. Not to mention these engines do seem vulnerable to bearing surfaces going bad - rod knock, spun bearings and stuff. A Subaru is not the car to neglect the maintenance on.
They used to have the water temp and oil pressure gauges in cars and if you wanted rpm you (mostly guys) had them added (not dash available). You always knew where your car was running differently before hand. Now you have rpm (boo) and nothing about water temp or oil pressure.....have to depend on idiot lights....then it may be too late. Boo to the idiots who build cars today.
I'm not a Subaru guy but most cars have 1qt/1k considered "normal"... My Honda has always burned a decent quantity of oil and it's not uncommon for people with this engine to see the low oil pressure light start to come on if they've neglected to check the oil for the entire oil change interval because it's burned 3 of the 4.5 qts. Just add the oil, it's good to get fresh stuff in there anyways... If you hate adding oil then for your next car don't buy something with a Horizontally opposed engine (Subaru) or anything with forced induction (supercharged / turbocharged).
True on the hondas, I never realized how much they burn...figured with their uber mpg that they wouldn't be blowing through so much oil. People do tend to go several thousand over on their oil changes and don't realize it DOES harm the engine and multiply how quickly it goes down hill.
no, the problem is a loose nut behind the wheel. 7k miles overdue for an oil change, i challangr u to find and engine that will be fine if u dont do maint on it
+motoYam82 yeah for about 80k miles and then you had to rebuild them. I know all about pushrod. Easy to rebuild, but doesn't last anywhere near as long as modern engines. These Subarus engines are the toughest on the market, next to an Inline 6 engines.
VGAPR Garage - I know 2 people with this body style Forester, both have over 170,000 miles on original engine and transmission. No major mechanical repairs. You were saying?
When you change the oil every 1500 to 200 miles (and filter), do a tune up, replace MAF senser, and egr and catalytic converters and it still runs like crap, the problem is, it's a Subaru. Buy another car.
I put some cheap $1.99 5w30 oil in my 07 Outback after I discovered it was low on oil. I changed the oil about a thousand miles later. About two weeks after I changed the oil, on my way home today my car threw the P0026 code. The engine idled fine and didn't seem to run rough or anything. I took the solenoid out of the passenger side bank and saw that it was spotless, but the little hole at the bottom was plugged up. I cleaned out the solenoid and made sure it moved freely and also took a look inside the mounting hole to see if there was any crud build up. It looked clean to me. I also cleaned the PCV valve since it was stuck open (found my oil consumption issue lol). So just to be safe I cleaned the other bank and sure enough the solenoid was dirty to. Never in the 6 years of owning my Outback have I ever run into this issue, I've also never run crappy oil through my car. I've always used name brand synthetic oil or conventional oil, the one time I was in a pinch to get to work and it bit me. It seems like this is a common issue with newer cars since the internet is littered with complaints regarding this code.
Proper maintenance alleviates so many problems especially on VVT emgines. Low dirty oil wreaks havoc on them causing premature wear on crank & cam bearings & pumps reducing oil pressure, clogging VVT screens and causing premature VVT component failures. I put only Mobil 1 in my customer engines & use Mobil 1 Extended Performance in all my vehicles. Hopefully she'll be a new customer and she'll have an outstanding mech/tech caring for her vehicle.
Yes you are absolutely correct I just did it on my wife’s car which is a 2010 Subaru Forrester she went to work call me telling me that the car stopped on her multiple times but she was able to drive 20+ miles an hour she came home and I took it for a test drive , and I noticed the RPM was so low and that’s why I was killing the car my wife’s car is a five speed manual just like the one in the video it was due for an oil change did that and the car runs fine 👍
I am planning to do the spark plugs next
Preventive Maintenance , What is that? The salesman told me the vehicle is maintenance free. Gas and go is the way to go.
Hats off to the disposable society we live in. You can pay me a little now or a lot later. Ok, I am back, nice video Ivan.
As a former Subaru tech, I can tell you without reservation that these VVT solonoids will not take dirty oil for very long ! I tell people to use high quality synthetic oil and a high end oil filter that is designed for synthetic oil. I've seen people come to the shop and drop 1200 bucks on a VVT problem :( Change the oil every 5000 miles to be safe !
I run my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 powered Holden Commodore with Nulon 10W40 multigrade fulll synthetic oil & I change it every 10,000 kilometres or 6 months whichever comes first,it runs cleaner than the semi synthetic oil.
I'd say that's the Subaru EJ25 engine, those boxer engines go forever if you service them properly because my brother has got over 402,000 kilometres on his although it has had the cylinder heads rebuilt twice firstly due to the fact the first owner couldn't afford the $1000+AUD timing belt change on the EJ20 engine which means it snapped then the valves got bent.
Secondly,my brother runs it on LP gas meaning it had severe valve seat recession then dropped a valve which my cousins partner fixed up as he's a Subaru mechanic,he got the cylinder heads rebuilt with new valves, valve seats & springs fitted.
I recently found that it has an air leak at the throttle body butterfly input shaft which only becomes apparent when the engine has fully warmed up,when it's cold it will idle at its 750 RPM but as it warms up it will rise up to about 1100 RPMs then it will start surging so I ordered another throttle body for it on eBay.
It was sucking air in through here :-
qph.fs.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-4f83c26bd019cdc161a63c25a0bbcf8f
I found that by slowly tipping a jug of water over the throttle body input shaft, it's worn out the aluminium housing !
That sure was burnt oil. I'm changing the oil in the Jetta this week. almost 7 quarts of 0-40 European spec. Thanks for the video which I enjoyed watching during my lunch in the work van. Have a super day.
Boggles me mind about Subaru neglecting to put a temp sensor in the dash.
My 19 Legacy has one... must've added them recently
My 2009 WRX has one, so not sure why they don't have one in here.
Yup my 2011 Forester doesn't have oil temp gauge. just when oil is cold or get hot light comes on.
@@420visiont-_- does your forester have low idle rpm? I recently bought one (same year) and I noticed mine does. Drives great just not sure if it’s normal
@@cuselacrosse1 did you get that sorted out? Mind drops low, then rumbles/shakes a little and goes back to idling Normal. In a red light it could do it up to 3 times.
In hight school I worked at Q-Lube. It's crazy just how many people neglect the the most basic of things. I'd say about 10-20% of the cars I'd drain would have sludge in them. And most of the cars had less than 70k miles.
Hey Ivan, great video. I see this all the time. Pretty common Subaru problem. More often on the turbo models. 5K is the maximum OCI I go with on the cars with AVCS. The solenoids are easy enough to get to to (only the STI/new WRX has them on the exhaust side) for a quick pull and clean. I've had very good luck pulling them out and hitting them with some of Eric O's favorite brake cleaner to degunk them on neglected cars. Sometimes an oil change won't get all the crud out. Watch out for the screen in the feed lines on the older turbo models too. There's a TSB on removing those. They get plugged/crushed easily. Newer than 07/08 doesn't have them.
It's common enough that Subaru sells an oil flush product specifically for these codes. I don't usually go that route though.
Instead of a reminder sticker , there should be like a small baseball bat device that wacks the driver in the head and says I need an oil change , that way the oil would be changed regularly.
Id change the oil again after 1000 or so miles to get the rest of that old nasty oil out.
Yeah it would scare the crap out of me seeing that in my car. Definitely get that oil and filter changed again soon!
Good grief. That's kind of sad but my mom was the same way. She went though a few engines in her day because she never check the coolant level. I enjoyed the video because sometimes it can be just that easy.
Ivan, the issue with this Forster and other Subaru models from 2009- 2015 is extreme engine oil consumption, there has been many complaints and class action law suits. tell your wife's co-worker to top off regularly.
+mrexecutive1 1qt of oil consumed in 7k miles lol. Thats normal, actually better than normal.
The oil consumption problems really started with the introduction of the FB series (chain drive) engines in 2011. The late series EJ engines up to 2010 weren't known for oil consumption issues.
@@HollomanUFOLanding The EJ engines had issues with piston slap and oil consumption, its all over the Subaru forums. My 07 Outback uses about a half a quart every 2k miles, my 09 forester would use about the same amount.
It's so easy and convenient to check your oil at least at every fill up, I don't see how someone can let their oil get to that condition.
+Beau C I bet 95% of car owners don't check their oil between oil changes. But neglecting oil changes is still a big no-no! Maybe they thought that oil change reminder sticker was just for decoration?
+motoYam82 They didn't want to lose the colorful "V" sticker haha.
Oil is cheap. Engines are expensive.
Excellent Video! Great example of just drive it til it won't go. I have had suburu's go for 300k, but always with regular oil changes, hope they learned from this...Thanks Ivan.
the regular public tends to blame the makers of cars for their problems, when in reality they are at fault for not maintaining their vehicles! they are always smarter than the techs, lol!
Yeah, pretty common. This used to happen to me on my Honda V6, two quarts low = limp home mode. Just ran into a neighbor two weeks ago whose Volvo S40 "wouldn't go." Turns out he only had two quarts in the crankcase = limp home mode. Nice job Ivan.
po2o3
Baxrok2
The 1 Dislike is the Pennzoil rep!!!!!
😂
traveling mechanic, oil change in the field means crawling under the vehicle. Proper disposal of used oil and filter EPA regs.good job. I still say pickup truck and covered trailer would make your life much easier. Trust me
Nothing says "bad oil" like variable valve timing trouble codes...
These engines are vulnareble for driving short distances and dirty oil. So perform a good motor flush and fill her up with indeed full synth .NEVER fill a dirty engine with fresh oil. Now both solenoids are clogged up so remove them and rinse them good.
It is a common problem for Subaru's. Change the oil at least every year before wintertime.
Yea, auto parts stores shouldn't be clearing codes... They aren't mechanics. BUT at least they told her and she kept in mind what codes they cleared out for you. That generation Subaru (at least on my 09 Legacy) had a way to get the diag codes through the odometer.
Autozone is not allowed to clear the code!!!!
I wish people would do just a little PM! Nice video Ivan.
I seen the right bank jump up to 200.. and then the right bank completely dropped out when you were driving. So the issue is in the right bank for sure. Maybe just a loose wire/ connector.
So i have an 06 Forester non turbo. I have had issues like the customer described, every time after clearing codes or disconnecting the battery, the computer needs to relearn the throttle position. Works every time, turn key on without starting for 20-30 sec, then start with all accessories off and let idle for 3-5 min without touching the throttle, turn engine off and wait 10-20 sec, turn key on without starting engine, wait 20-30 sec, turn engine on with all accessories off and let idle of 8-10 min. all good to go. no other issues after that. Now, I have been told the computer will relearn the throttle position by just driving normal, however, this has never worked for mine. It would stall when ever you came to a stop, until I did the relearn procedure above.
Sitting in your MPV, you can pull out a Coleman stove and make yourself a cup of coffee as well.
+Garth Goldberg Actually I got one right there in the survival kit box labeled "socks" lol
all day long I chase ghosts. I love my job. I work at the San Antonio Texas USPS vehicle maintenance facility
ran into that issue with a Nissan. cam and crank codes and the fix was a fresh oil change!
Good vid. That thing will prob take a few oil changes to get it all worked out.
Air/Fuel ratio sensors. I had this same problem. Idle dip, rough idle.. took a long time to store a code even with the engine running rough. Changed primary and secondary o2 sensors.. problem solved.
Can confirm - OCV code are the first symptom of low oil in a Subaru.
Hi I wonder if on these models they have filter screen in the banjos bolts for the oil supply to the camshafts adjuster solenoid I know on a 2009 WRX there is two of these filters obviously if the oil and filter quality is low and the oil service is not done properly then there is a chance for this to append . I for myself I'm chasing the same problem on a customers car I did an oil change with a oil flush but it did not help and remove the banjo bolt filter that supplies the turbocharger and bank one timing and it wasn't dirty my next step is to remove the solenoid and see if it's dirty or just replace it with a good use one or a new one if that doesn't work then is to remove the intake cam pulley an inspect it an clean it similar to what Eric did on GM 4 cylinder pick up I did the same you did road tested it with my diagnostic tool and found that Bank 1 & 2 did not match in percentage so I know there is something wrong the fault would take a long time to pop up and sometimes not.
Just did the head gaskets and had p0028 andp0016,18, on my customers 07 tribeca, there was a magnet in the oil pan full of particles and gunk it was easy to clean also on the reset of the heads there are some pencil eraser size screens that also had gunk on them affecting the rear solenoids , mine had the 2 rear solenoids with oil pressure sensors and the two larger front solenoids which never looked too dirty but yea remove the entire valve and switch from the rear of heads to clean that tiny filter screen
Whenever you clear the engine codes, the next time you start the engine, hold it in the ON position for about 10 seconds, then start. Should start right away, otherwise it will only crank, like it did for the lady.
I know im late to the party, but one thing that is an easy check is the oil pressure switch too...those suckers are notoriously prone to crappin out and what bugs me is that the pressure switch is a requirement to provide good data to the ecm. But for whatever reason most of the repair steps dont even bother checking it
Lack of engine oil maintenance seems to be so popular lately. I see it all the time now.
+ManicMechanic007 That's because people treat cars like appliances. Zero maintenance and just buy a new disposable replacement when it breaks. Sad really.
Upgrade to a 908 man. I LOVE mine. The vid scope is awesome. The lab scope needs help but it works.
+rasafrasahassenfrat The 908 is on my wish list! What's the vid scope?
The same thing in my Subaru Forester 2009 XT Turbo, 72,000 miles: lighting Check Engine + Cruise Control + Traction Control, some times the motor was shut down + code P0011 was present.
Applied motor flush, oil change (5w/30) and new oil filter, also two solenoid valves were changed (the filter-screen wasn't in the two banjo bolts). The 3 lights disappeared for some days, but then they came back, then the motor sometimes was shut off when it change to Reverse.
So, the throttle body was cleaned and then 3 lights disappeared (again) but, they came back in two days; so far the car only has gone shut off once (while put Reverse) and the code P0011 persists.
Any idea to solve this trouble???
Thanks !
Wow cool, an oil change did the job! I change my oils every 6 months and we drive less than 5,000 miles in that time span, typically about 1,200 miles or less. Mobile 1 High Mileage Oils and OEM or Napa Platinum filters.
You're wasting your money. lol.. You could easily go 6k miles on that oil. You're saying that you would have changed your oil 5 times by then. That's crazy.
From everything I'm seeing and reading, these Subarus are relatively trouble-free for hundreds of thousands of miles if you just maintain them properly.
I had this code come up on my impala with VVT. Changed the oil and all was well. That oil looks nasty!
I am a new driver and bought an old car from a local dealer. Now I found that this car has a gasket and wheel bearing issue. Is it worth fixing the head gasket and timing component in the 2010 Subaru Forester(150000 Kms)? or Trade?
That Subaru thanks you..
Can a P0028 cause a misfire? I changed all 4 plugs and wires and still having a p0302
Hey Ivan, do you need a special compression hose for a in cylinder compression transducer do you need to take out the valve in the end?
Excellent educational videos
Thank you Babur!
Did the oil change place actually change the oil?????.
I feel like that should've been a no-brainer for the customer.
po2o3 reply added
"My Husband Ivan fixes cars on TH-cam" how convenient, huh? LOL! Engines and transmissions share many of the same properties; their oils: lubricate, help transfer _excess_ heat away, and actuate hydraulic mechanisms. Dirty, thinned-out oils will kill anything that relies on them for hydraulics. I would've added 1 quart of kerosene, changed filter, and idle 15-20 minutes _before_ the regular service. Take both used filters home, label with marker, and cut open for video part 2, and advise the Customer to watch the video. Without a flush- I can almost guarantee the new filter is 1/4 plugged after 50 miles- because most synthetics really clean internals well.
+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP I do agree with you, and half of the additives will de worn out as well.
Willem Streutgers Actually- kerosene is good for power cleaning, with the attended vehicle, and only used for 15-20 then drained. In this case- I'd change the filter, add 1 quart of *plain cheap ATF* and let her drive it 2 days- then do the normal service. ATF is less aggressive. Don't forget- the "average" filter holds roughly 1 quart- so after changing the first filter, the 1 quart of ATF would not dangerously overfill the engine. That engine is worth the small cost now.
my cruise control plinking in the morning when the car is coold without check engine what the proplem can you help me please
After clearing the codes it resets everything, just like putting a fresh battery in. Needed to do a idle re-learn on the vehicle.
this is the same exact thing with my dads and we are kinda worried at least were not alone
Recently i got the same code P0026 i checked my oil and the level was fine but it was really burnt (black) but i decided to change my solenoid but that didnt seem to help and what the car does is it gets stuck at 40000 rpms and wont go higher , and idea of whats going on? Thank you!
Did you change your black burned oil lol?
I have the same problem, rough idle miss fire. It was nothing to do with the oil or filter. Our guess is the ignition coils as the spark plugs were changed last service. Also air filter is clean just in case I will throw that in there as well.
If you have an extended warranty ....get it to Subaru ...it they give you a hard time (lies) call the customer service # in your manual. Google the issues hundreds of people have been having with their cars (sport and suv)
I Ivan looks like a young Harrison Ford, like in Apocalypse Now.
omg. I change my oil myself, every 3-5k, full synthetic only. Now 170k on the engine.
Replace the oil pressure switch when you do the oil/filter change.
People do not understand that these cheap parts are not eternal.
2010 Subaru forester in year 2020-21. Less than 80k headgasket rebuilt. Two water pump's catalytic converter replaced with complete exhaust from converter to engine?engine fan and ac fan not working, now after almost 4 k in about a year, now pistons sound hard on warm day start. I'm literally cursed.
Yeah those late 2000s Subarus can be lemons lol
any videos coming out soon on electronic throttle bodys ?? that would be awesome. knowledge is power >=D
why the fuck cant people change there oil now a days? oil changes are cheep engines ARE NOT CHEEP, i dont care what the company says. 5k MILES TOPS EVEN SYNTHETIC, yes the oil CAN go longer, but the detergents in the oil can NOT go longer. man is this ever frustrating as a tech
+Kevin Rogers Nowadays
+Gregory May Their
...Really, do people not using proper grammar bother you that much? lol
That's orthography, not grammar :P But yeah, for real...
People on the whole are lazy procrastinators and would rather spend the money on cheap shiney ornaments or crappy air fresheners to cover up the cigarette (or pot) smells lol
What happens if you go on red on ramps
Subaru and power full in the same sentence. Super funny. My Buick GN runs 9.40. All gas
autozone is NOT allowed to reset codes in customers vehicles
But they look the other way if you push the "clear codes" button :)
They've done it many times for customers who come into my shop
It is far worse than what he is talking about .....look at all the complaints since 2007 through 20013 then just as big of issues with the 20014 and 2015. If you start with a power steering leak and have warranty.......get it to a dealer. Their limit is 60K and my son first changed the oil at 1000 miles and every 3000 after that. It is not a warn engine it is the connected components to the steering ...power train....long block....radiator ....transmission. Google it.....it is true.....it happened to us. Thank God above that it was in the dealer's hands when it blew apart. We got a new short block and reworked valves...etc...etc. The stall problem is when you should take it to the dealer......if you have a warranty or they are the ones it blows-up on.....2015 wrx
Solution!!!!??? Please!!!!!
Where is the engine temperature Guage? I didn't see one
+clayton betts They replaced it with a dummy warning light. I guess they think the modern driver is too dumb to interpret a gauge haha
clayton betts .....they used to have the water temp and oil pressure gauges in cars and if you wanted rpm you (mostly guys) had them added (not dash available). Now you have rpm (boo) and nothing about water temp or oil pressure.....have to depend on idiot lights....then it may be too late.Boo to the idiots who build cars today.
There's no coolant temp on the instrument cluster?????????? Odd, considering subarus are known for their headgasket failure which can overheat the car.
Haha nope just a silly light...
lol Subaru dose not want you to know the coolant temp status so that way by the time the warning light comes on its too late damage already done :P it is stupid i agree I mean heck my 2012 Nissan sentra has a temp gauge its one of the main gauges on the vehicle and most other vehicles iv had have that gauge.
+Matthew sourtzis
Really. Subaru dont want you to know the engine temp.
Oh come on.
Subaru like other high end manufacturers have realised that most idiots driving never look at the guages until the car starts performing poorly. its not until then they look at the guage to see if they are out of fuel and notice the temp guage is pegged high.
The concept of a light coming on that is set at a pre determined temp that is before boiling point and that a light coming on will get your attention.... I have changed more head gaskets than i care to remember and 99% of my customers could not tell me what the temperature was 5 minutes prior to noticing the temp guage was showing hot!!!!!!
Manufacturers are not hiding anything.
Agreed, they aren't hiding anything. People are dumb and they don't look at the gauges or don't know what they do anyways so it's just left off. Temp gauges aren't real anyways, generally speaking in most cars the temp gauge is "in the middle" from something stupid like 170* till like 220*, then it starts moving. With a gauge that "fake" a light will do just fine. Now very old cars didn't have this and you could see the gauge move a bit while going up a hill or stopping, but not anymore.... it's designed to look as steady as possible even during mild overheating.
fucking Suburu with this burning oil issues too.
Man that oil is gross. You know I love Subaru's. I'm thinking of buying one with a blown head gasket for nothing and repairing it. But damn those Boxer engines are a little fragile and need to be well looked after.
You've got like double the failure potential on these for vvt cams. Not to mention that nasty oil probably didn't do the head gasket any good. Not to mention these engines do seem vulnerable to bearing surfaces going bad - rod knock, spun bearings and stuff. A Subaru is not the car to neglect the maintenance on.
Your wife's an Optometrist?
They used to have the water temp and oil pressure gauges in cars and if you wanted rpm you (mostly guys) had them added (not dash available). You always knew where your car was running differently before hand. Now you have rpm (boo) and nothing about water temp or oil pressure.....have to depend on idiot lights....then it may be too late. Boo to the idiots who build cars today.
Order ДИМЕКСИД from Russia for case like this...that magic potion...
Let me show you this dirty oil... ( pulls dipstick... dirt clods fall off it)
Subaru 2.5 oil consumption 1 Qt/1000 miles, considered normal by Subaru.
I'm not a Subaru guy but most cars have 1qt/1k considered "normal"... My Honda has always burned a decent quantity of oil and it's not uncommon for people with this engine to see the low oil pressure light start to come on if they've neglected to check the oil for the entire oil change interval because it's burned 3 of the 4.5 qts. Just add the oil, it's good to get fresh stuff in there anyways... If you hate adding oil then for your next car don't buy something with a Horizontally opposed engine (Subaru) or anything with forced induction (supercharged / turbocharged).
True on the hondas, I never realized how much they burn...figured with their uber mpg that they wouldn't be blowing through so much oil. People do tend to go several thousand over on their oil changes and don't realize it DOES harm the engine and multiply how quickly it goes down hill.
Don't even need to change oil if it burns as you add it in WOO SUBIE LYFE
thats horrible advice, you still at least need to change the oil filter or you'll be looking at a major sludge problem.
Cheap fix.
The problem is it's a Subaru.
no, the problem is a loose nut behind the wheel. 7k miles overdue for an oil change, i challangr u to find and engine that will be fine if u dont do maint on it
+gregp05 Older GM 6-cylinder pushrod engines run pretty well with no maintenance haha
+motoYam82 yeah for about 80k miles and then you had to rebuild them. I know all about pushrod. Easy to rebuild, but doesn't last anywhere near as long as modern engines. These Subarus engines are the toughest on the market, next to an Inline 6 engines.
My car does it :( sad times
VGAPR Garage - I know 2 people with this body style Forester, both have over 170,000 miles on original engine and transmission. No major mechanical repairs. You were saying?
Great way to abuse a car with 75k.
When you change the oil every 1500 to 200 miles (and filter), do a tune up, replace MAF senser, and egr and catalytic converters and it still runs like crap, the problem is, it's a Subaru. Buy another car.