Hi Matt I have used blacking chemicals for several years. The instructions I received with my kit are as follows; Wash all parts in clean water after each treatment then blow off with and air line, Parts should be left in the cleaner for 10 minutes. Parts should be left in the blacking solution for up to 2 minutes. Immerse parts in the oil for 10 minutes then leave to drain and dry on a cloth, usually over night. Hope this helps.
I did get an instruction sheet, but I put it somewhere safe and forgot where the safe place was 😂😂. They have turned out right in the end, which is all that matters. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
Hi Matt. We have a supplier here in Newcastle ( in Australia). I made up some ‘baths’ out of plastic guttering to do the frames on my 5” gge. 2-6-0 Baldwin Mogul (1856). I wash each part after each of the cleaning and blacking stages, then leave the oiled parts to air dry. Beats painting by miles… Regards Robert
You're up tp 4k subscribers! Congrats! I've been watching for a couple years from over here in the US. About a year ago I started building the Kozo Hiraoka A3 switcher in 3.5" gauge and am almost done with the tender. No machining or metalworking at all before this, but I've learned quite a bit just watching you build your Tinkerbell. Enjoy your videos!
Thank you John, your kind words are much appreciated. Yes Im familiar with the Kozo loco, that is what Blondiehacks is building. We have a gentleman at our model engineering club building the Kozo Climax. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
I use a simaler method with Phosphoric acid for brass parts at Uskin ... You might want to make sure the chemicals are kept in a dark cupbaord out of daylight as this can have an adverse effect on the chemicals keep up the good work
Some good tips there, luckily all my chemical are in a room with no windows. Every time I try and blacken brass it rubs back off again!! All the best, Matt 👍🚂
I have used it to blacken the mounting plates and nuts, bolts, on my telescope pier. I left the parts in the blacking solution for 2 hours just to make sure the blacking got some depth into the metal.
Once it's black it's done, it doesn't go etch any further than the surface. I will have a play though with timings. As long as it does the job, thats all that matters. All the best, 👍🚂
luvely jubley Matt i usually do the vintage method, heat and engine oil, might invest some of my winnings in that kit😄😄👍👍👍👍👍👍laterzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Kev
Dont leave your parts in the blackening solution for too long, it ruins the solution quicker, dont cross contaminate cloths ie use the one you used for dewatering on a part you just degreased. Those solutions work a bit to stop rust. I think I prefer the old way of heating the part up and dunking in old engine oil.
Hi Matt
I have used blacking chemicals for several years. The instructions I received with my kit are as follows; Wash all parts in clean water after each treatment then blow off with and air line, Parts should be left in the cleaner for 10 minutes. Parts should be left in the blacking solution for up to 2 minutes. Immerse parts in the oil for 10 minutes then leave to drain and dry on a cloth, usually over night.
Hope this helps.
I did get an instruction sheet, but I put it somewhere safe and forgot where the safe place was 😂😂. They have turned out right in the end, which is all that matters. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
Hi Matt.
We have a supplier here in Newcastle ( in Australia).
I made up some ‘baths’ out of plastic guttering to do the frames on my 5” gge. 2-6-0 Baldwin Mogul (1856).
I wash each part after each of the cleaning and blacking stages, then leave the oiled parts to air dry.
Beats painting by miles…
Regards
Robert
Hi, what's the details for a supplier in Newcastle, cheers michael
@@michaelnoyes4817
The supplier is ‘Jane Kits.’
You're up tp 4k subscribers! Congrats! I've been watching for a couple years from over here in the US. About a year ago I started building the Kozo Hiraoka A3 switcher in 3.5" gauge and am almost done with the tender. No machining or metalworking at all before this, but I've learned quite a bit just watching you build your Tinkerbell. Enjoy your videos!
Thank you John, your kind words are much appreciated. Yes Im familiar with the Kozo loco, that is what Blondiehacks is building. We have a gentleman at our model engineering club building the Kozo Climax. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
I use a simaler method with Phosphoric acid for brass parts at Uskin ... You might want to make sure the chemicals are kept in a dark cupbaord out of daylight as this can have an adverse effect on the chemicals
keep up the good work
Some good tips there, luckily all my chemical are in a room with no windows. Every time I try and blacken brass it rubs back off again!! All the best, Matt 👍🚂
I have used it to blacken the mounting plates and nuts, bolts, on my telescope pier. I left the parts in the blacking solution for 2 hours just to make sure the blacking got some depth into the metal.
Once it's black it's done, it doesn't go etch any further than the surface. I will have a play though with timings. As long as it does the job, thats all that matters. All the best, 👍🚂
Leaving them in the oil until you have blackened them all save the possibility of any traces of oil on your gloves whilst handling unblackened parts
Hi Chris, Yes when I finished off all the parts I was doing I did just that! It was good fun though. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
The blue chemical solution looks like copper sulphate?
It does, but it's definitely not copper sulphate.
It would be possible to look it up in the safety database @@MattChiversWorkshop
Good thing we're not in the midi-evil times, you'd be hauled off to the dungeon . Good one Merlin
😂 Wizardry magic!! All the best, Matt 👍🚂
Reality interesting Matt thanks for posting this 😀 I’ve got some blackening cream to try looks like I will need some degreaser and oil 😳
Hi Julia, it smelt like the no-nonsense degreaser from screwfix! and its dewatering oil. Its great fun watching it turn. All the best, Matt 👍🚂
Wow its quick , a bit like Brick acid in reverse !?!. I would be really interested to know if it helps prevent rusting .?
Hi Chris, Its is suppose to give it a mild rust prevention, once its all oiled up on the steam engine it won't go rusty!! All the best, Matt 👍🚂
luvely jubley Matt
i usually do the vintage method, heat and engine oil, might invest some of my winnings in that kit😄😄👍👍👍👍👍👍laterzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
Kev
Hi Kev, definitely!! its much easier than heating and quenching!! All the best, Matt 👍🚂🚂
Geoff is a gud’un 👍🏻
He sure is!! All the best, Matt, 👍🚂
@@MattChiversWorkshop Pass my regards on. Shout if you want a catch-up about what you mentioned
Next stage... Iron to gold please!
Yeah I Wish!!
Dont leave your parts in the blackening solution for too long, it ruins the solution quicker, dont cross contaminate cloths ie use the one you used for dewatering on a part you just degreased. Those solutions work a bit to stop rust. I think I prefer the old way of heating the part up and dunking in old engine oil.
Great Tips there Wadkin 👍
I think you need to use separate rags. The oil on the rag could contaminate the parts while drying and prevent the blackening.
Hi, I did use separate rags, one was black, one was red/white striped. They all turned out right in the end, so all is good. All the best, Matt 👍🚂