Thanks for posting these videos, it taught me a lot. But... I followed all the steps in both videos and no luck. When i had the drain flow button out, I did get draw. I changed the brine valve for like $15, still no luck. All the parts in the backwash injector assembly were very clean even when i first opened it up. So I ended up buying the main piston assembly with seals and spacers for $70. I honestly didn't think it would work. It did. I have brine draw again. So if you try all the tips and still get water flowing out to the salt tank during BD, as a last resort I'd suggest a new main valve. BTW, my main piston a green top and the one i bought from amz was white... it worked fine. Maybe i'm missing something there, but it just seems ok.
THANKS! This fixed my problem with the brine tank filling instead of draining. I had to order the DLFC Retainer Removal Tool from Amazon because the retainer was in too tight to be removed easily.
I did all of that and it would suction with out the nipple and rubber bushing and once I but it all back together water would once again come out why would that be
@@tltolman73 I had the same issue with our sxt. After trying this process 3 times I replaced the Fleck (60032) Brine Valve Piston Assembly for less than $10.00 from AMZ. The old one was a bear to get out but I got it done. cleaned out the cavity with a lint-free cloth and the new one went in as easy as could be. Fixed the problem. (th-cam.com/video/MiJktBgvi38/w-d-xo.html)
I too replaced the brine piston (and entire valve assembly eventually) and still no luck in getting the proper suction during brine draw... but then I noticed the white gear which pushes on the brine piston during the BD step was stopping a little too early (maybe 1-2 degrees) and not pushing the piston to its maximum position. By adding a dab of plastic putty to the gear notches which the electro/mechanical switches monitor to tell the gear to stop, I was able to get the gear to stop a touch later for BD and now all is working properly again.
Thanks for posting these videos, it taught me a lot. But... I followed all the steps in both videos and no luck. When i had the drain flow button out, I did get draw. I changed the brine valve for like $15, still no luck. All the parts in the backwash injector assembly were very clean even when i first opened it up. So I ended up buying the main piston assembly with seals and spacers for $70. I honestly didn't think it would work. It did. I have brine draw again. So if you try all the tips and still get water flowing out to the salt tank during BD, as a last resort I'd suggest a new main valve. BTW, my main piston a green top and the one i bought from amz was white... it worked fine. Maybe i'm missing something there, but it just seems ok.
Thanks. You have better videos on this topic than anyone else on TH-cam. When I next need parts, I'll buy from you.
THANKS! This fixed my problem with the brine tank filling instead of draining.
I had to order the DLFC Retainer Removal Tool from Amazon because the retainer was in too tight to be removed easily.
I did all of that and it would suction with out the nipple and rubber bushing and once I but it all back together water would once again come out why would that be
I too was able to get suction with nipple and rubber bushing removed... but as soon as put back in, the suction disappeared and reversed flowed again.
@@tltolman73 I had the same issue with our sxt. After trying this process 3 times I replaced the Fleck (60032) Brine Valve Piston Assembly for less than $10.00 from AMZ. The old one was a bear to get out but I got it done. cleaned out the cavity with a lint-free cloth and the new one went in as easy as could be. Fixed the problem. (th-cam.com/video/MiJktBgvi38/w-d-xo.html)
The softener has gone thru 4 regen cycles since replacing the brine valve piston with no further problems.
I too replaced the brine piston (and entire valve assembly eventually) and still no luck in getting the proper suction during brine draw... but then I noticed the white gear which pushes on the brine piston during the BD step was stopping a little too early (maybe 1-2 degrees) and not pushing the piston to its maximum position. By adding a dab of plastic putty to the gear notches which the electro/mechanical switches monitor to tell the gear to stop, I was able to get the gear to stop a touch later for BD and now all is working properly again.