I recently replaced my M5 with the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra after watching your video The convenience and simplicity of the Elegoo over Anycubic machines is just night and day. Thank you for your reviews, the best on youtube by far as they're just so in depth yet non bias.
Hi there Ross - I don’t have any printer with ACF film. BUT, the evidence is clear: everybody who went into this rabbit whole and documented with good close-ups reached the same conclusion as yours: ACF blurs, it scatters light and the texture leaves vertical trails on the parts. It’s undeniable - I don’t need to test it myself. There are excellent photos and videos showing it clearly. PFA for the win. ACF is a failed experiment. Resin Printing is about quality. 👍 Charming video.
When I ordered my M7 Pros a few months ago, the standard M7 was already listed for preorder in the 3djake shop. So far, I'm rather happy with the Pro - and especially the heater, which made it much easier to put the printers in the garage.
Great video, thanks for getting the printer yourself so we can get an honest and reliable opinion about it. On the comparisons, in my opinion, there are two things, printer features and quality. The features are well presented in these videos, and the comparisons do a great direct work for those two/three/four examples, but as prices swing all the time, sometimes you are considering two printers never compared before, so you are alone for that. About the quality, I would appreciate a standardized stress test, a hard one, until they fail, that we can compare for every printer you have ever tested. Something more suited for the website probably, but I want to take a look at those prints, in high resolution, and spend some time with them, with the ones for different printers. Something I can't do with the videos. DxOMark does the same with all cameras, and we you are checking for image quality, they are the gold standard. Just a thought.
Hey ross, I am going to buy my first printer soon with the purpose of printing miniatures for display painting / games. are their any printers you would recommend for this? I know you like the HeyGears Refkex RS but the price is a bit too steep for me. Do you recommend anything around ~500 euro?
Hey Ross, Amy here (no soapbox lol), I totally agree with @GeekDetour... No printer of mine would be caught dead with ACF film! I would have to take it out to the desert and shoot it Goodfellows style and bury it! And like you said in the video, speed is a DISTANT thought when seeking detail! Thank you Ross! All hail Ross lol. Comparing the M7 to the M7 Pro, hands down this is a consideration now. The vat does not have that bloated heater block on it! My god, what was Anycubic thinking? And as you also mentioned Ross, Anycubic saying this fast at 1mm layer height (or whatever)? NO ONE PRINTS AT THAT LAYER HEIGHT! Like Hello Anycubic! Do you even know for whom you are making machines for? Or are you just putting big flashing speed numbers up hoping we are to stupid to read your small print, I mean that is, when it can be found on your marketing page. Seems like Anycubic is starting to get a bit deceptive here. Would that mean they are falling behind in the resin printer game? I do have a second vat for my M5s (with PFA), for when I use clear resin or colors. I keep one vat for just my general grey resin to ensure no cross contamination. And before I go, Ross, mini Ross looks so grim and unhappy with his super large bottle of resin.
Oh! Something I'm usually missing is printer reliability over the long term. Not many talk about it and IMHO it would be a game changer for deciding what printer to get. How often the screen is replaced, noises, z-axis stuck, I don't know.. maintenance overall
I'd really like to see a video like this as well. Just about every printer reviewer does print reviews of the printers as they come out, but not down the road as far as how many layers they printed in general before needing to replace the LCD. That said, most of the companies give a general lifespan for their LCDs. I suppose since most of these LCDs are the same in both Elegoo and Anycubic, you're probably going to get the same life. I think what's important, that Fauxhammer has covered before, and I wish he still did, was cover the complexity of replacing the LCD if one has to. That's one thing I really liked about the GKtwo reviews, and what almost made me get one. Thos reviews of the GKtwo, if they're the same changing as the GKthree, will be why I get one.
Can you plesse update the Fauxhammer website for the Dungeons and Dragons Adventurer magazine please? It only shows us to issue 53 but issue 54 came out last week and issue 55 is out today. Thanks
They are wildly different machines. The Reflex is by far the best printer from a technical point of view. But it is very locked own Gk3 is a big printer. Do you need big? It is just a larger GKTWO.
Although I wonder if the issues with ACF are exacerbated with "lower" power UV light sources. I decided to re-use the new ACF from an M5S Pro on my Creality Halot One Pro which, despite its other deficiencies, has a banger of a UV emitter. I nearly ran into the lower limit (only 1s) on exposure time and was getting sharper prints than ever. It actually ends up printing faster than the "speedy" M5S.
Hi Ross, firstly great videos. The M7 took me by suprice also and even more suprising is this morning I updated my Anycubic slicer and they have added two more printers. The Photon M7 Max (Same size as the M3 max) and a Mono 4 ultra. Are you aware of these machines as there is no info about them at all and you are my go to reviewer for new units. Keep up the great vids..
Thanks for the review! How are you liking the Mono 4 so far? I presume you're currently testing/reviewing it behind the curtain and video will be coming soonish.
Thanks, yeah I want to get it written and recorded tomorrow as I'm on holiday in 2 days and I'll leave this for my editor whilst I'm away. I have both the Mono 4 and Ultra. I like both but they are different. The 4 is a bit bloated due to the Matrix LED array, so you don't really benefit much over the Mono 2, but Mono 2 is EOL now so getting parts for it soon will be impossible, The Ultra is much sharper thanks to it's COB, but it uses ACF which slightly bloats the prints, not a lot, but some. Swap to PFA and you have a solid machine.
Wow! Other than the ACF this looks really good. The M7 Pro was on my short list this year, but failed due to that vat. Thos would have been a contender. I'm certainly locked in to my GK3 being my upcoming primary unit, but I still have a soft spot for Anycubic due to my Christmas gift Mono 4k working so well, that i could see this replacing the Mono some day.
@@FauxHammer theromeog was saying that his layer (not base) exposure is 1.5s and that yours is 0.25, making it a 6 times increase over his exposure times which is just insane to think about. The screen on your M7 will last ~6 times longer due to this, and it just seemed so crazy that I had to emphasize it with a comment.
@@Archenuh Ah sorry, that's not what I meant. sorry if i communicated it that way. I started the RERF test with a 0.25s exposure time, I expected it not to print at all yet it still printed some details. So my sequential RERF tests were 0.25, 0.5, 0.75,1.0 and so on. I didn't print at this exposure time, because there was not enough detail in that result. I did 1.0 or 1.25, I can't remember now as I;ve tested other printers since then Just checked in Anycubic Workshop, it was 1.0s for 0.2mm layers of Phrozen Hyperfine.
Is it odd that when I compare speed, quality and build plates that I find myself looking at the Anycubic Mono 6Ks? It still seems to be a solid printer for some one that mostly prints and paints minis from 10mm to 32mm in size.
Hi Ross, I would like to ask for favour. I have Elegoo Satur 4 ultra and I get software update and there is new option in menu - manual leveling. Can you check this function and make same footage about it?On web or youtube Elegoo is dead silence and seems nobody dont know about it. Thanks a lot! Have great day!Petr
I’ve basically decided to get the Saturn 4 based on price restrictions (and an ABS-like resin and a clean + cure kit to fit the size of Saturn models). So seeing it go head to head with another viable option would be awesome to see!!
Saturn 4 does not have RERF capability, it's pretty much a halot mage but from elegoo(so you can spend even less, if money is part of question), Saturn 4 Ultra on the other hand worth every penny with it's tilting vat and rerf, i've got it couple of days ago and it's just perfect - you pretty much has to calibrate only regular layer exposure time, can't stress enough how awesome is that.
IMOP, the M7 is the BEST printer of this generation - in its class. Again just my option but better then S4U, Revo or GK2. Offering dynamic features to truly speed up the print that don't hurt quality. I just... replace ACF with nFEP ;)
@@FauxHammer The M7, The Pro is good but to make it as good I would recommend buying the M7 VAT to get away from the VAT pump. Very true But with the M7 series you've got dynamic lift height and dynamic light off delay. So necessarily going very fast on that first stage of lifting isn't as necessary to get fast speeds because you simply aren't lifting as high or waiting as long when it's not necessary. It also has some really cool baked in features like the first 50 layers Force 5 seconds light off delay and force a slower retract speed so that you get a better success rate. These are systems that are just not possible on a ChituSystems motherboard. Not unless you use UV tools to edit the slice. But let's be honest, that is way outside of what most people are even willing to consider.
@@J3DTech Sorry mate, I just realised who I'm talking to, i was trying to be beginner helpful... Agreed, I prefer this vat over the Vat Pump vat any day. I wonder if I have missed the value of the dynamic adjustments it can make because I've just not seen it in practise. It;s not clearly explained anywhere that i have found other than the marketing page that says "THIS EXISTS", So how do you try it? I typically set these machines up for rather conservative speed settings in order to ensure success over anything else. I presume now that I need to actually go the other way and force faster speeds then even the resin can typically handle, and just expect the printer to compensate when pull forces are too high?
@@FauxHammer It's not documented well at all! But you can see in in action. Enable both option in the app on on the LCD in strangest of places - Select a print > Print Function > Enable Off Compensation & Intelligent release. Now start a dry print with 3mm lift height and 1s light off delay. Wait till layer 51, now add resistance against it lifting up, or as it goes down. You can see how the printer will adjust both settings depending on the resistance applied. It's pretty cool to see it in action.
@@J3DTech just dropped you a message on Discord, because if this does what i think you mean it does, the way i think it does it.. I need to make a new video for the M7 Range
14:45 yup, I do all long prints at night and so the only reason for printing faster there is if I'm using low layer heights with big models because then the time can get very long but they are advertising 100um so redundant. Time per layer is what they should say (with and without cure time as that varies per resin but also uv intensity)
On the ACF thing... turns out some new PFA films are actually slightly cloudy leading to similar lines to ACF, especially elegoo, I know someone testing a bunch atm
I think, the current progression towards speed in trade of quality - whilst compensating with even higher resolution displays, that only cost significant more and don't impact the overall print as much as the ACF liner or example - is the absolute wrong move here. The other way around it would make more sense. Drop the expensive ACF and give the people the choice to "upgrade" to it. The actions to gain more speed in this and the last generations is just progression. You could equip the original anycubic photon with an acf liner and a super viscous resin and massive lifts and layerheights - the result would be the absolute same. Try to compare a "4k" Mars 3pro print to a "9k" Mars 4 non-ultra print. it's so insignificant, "normal" people couldn't tell a difference. So if anyone prefers speed over quality - there are countless possibilities to achieve this, without buying a new printer. Why exactly should I buy this if I don't?
Crazy that they still have that touch recognition problem on their screen, that already annoyed me back on my original Mono. At least it demonstrates that the resin side of the industry also needs a disruption akin to Bambu Lab that forces manufacturers to finally do their homework.
All printers have evolved to an equal point Modular systems with different add on are next But it’s the time of the slicer to raise their game Lychee Slicer and Chitubox need to match Heygears slicer When we have this 100% reliable resin presets built into the slicer then it will be game set and match to the user here’s hoping
I've would like to hear more detail about the Anti aliasing performance. I left Anycubic years ago because of its absence in the original Mono X and continuous lies about its futur implementation. The AA test you showed are not that impressive. My launch model Saturn 2 has flawless AA. Look injection molded with a macro lens. I'm would buy the M7 today but I'm hesitating because of this.
@@FauxHammer Perfect! Thanks for the M7 review. I'm eyeing my first resin printer after acquiring the A1 mini and the mono 4 (ultra) looks like good candidate (the Phrozen mini 8ks would be the alternative).
yes, but i believe it also dynamically monitors the pressure of the plate during early layers to avoid compression too. STill waiting for some actually useful info from Anycubic.
This printer reminds me of the S3U but is better. For me, I prefer ACF always. Not only is it fast, but you also don't need as much support for your print. This means fewer support marks, and any potential quality loss will be covered when you prime and color your print. The only downside to ACF is that it's expensive and fragile.
Hopefully it’s not rude to ask here but anyone know what’s happening with that heygears printer giveaway a few weeks ago I didn’t find it clear on where the the winner would be or was announced?
just got a1 combo cuz of u so mfar so good just alot of poop and .2 nozzle first layer is whack but thanks fro advice (i was picking either a1 or kobra 3
Hey FauxHammer. Thanks for all your videos they are always informative and entertaining. Love being a member of your channel. I'm going to be buying a second GKtwo soon, is your affiliate link on your original Gktwo video still active? Until next time, Nick...out!
@@FauxHammer Kinda what I thought. Anycubic and most of the other manufacturers need only look to Bambu Labs or Uniformation for a logical business model. I can see the value of adding or upgrading vs dropping $ on the latest shiny object.
There's definitely quite an overemphasis on speed instead of quality these days; wonder when the two of them will meet on something outside of a bambu printer 🤔
Nice, can I suggest not encouraging manufacturers to move away from the "boring" yellow / orange lids they used to manufacture in favour of the multitude of colours we've seen recently ? These new blue / red / grey covers tend to filter UV light very poorly in comparison to the more "classic" covers we've seen.
Forgive me, but it;s not something I've ever thought to test? what problem does this cause. I thought it was fairly common not to put these things near sunlight anyway? BVut I;m not really encouraging, I'm just saying it looks nicer. I;d be surprised it was such an issue with so many brands doing it and I haven't seen any massive issues reported due to these changes. Elegoo has used red for years, Anycubic used blue. I thought UV is closer to the blue spectrum than Yellow anyway? is the issue not more about cover opacity than colour?
@@FauxHammer Indirect light can still contain some UV light and some people may put their printers in environments where some will get to the printer, particularly over time. UV is indeed closer to blue than yellow, which is exactly why the latter naturally is more capable of filtering it than blue :D. A perfectly black and opaque cover would also effectively block UV light, but the genius thing about using good old yellow / orange covers is that they can still be highly transparent so you can see what's going on inside while being just as effective at blocking UV light as a fully opaque black cover. People do experience issues because of these poorly thought through covers, in fact one TH-camr had that exact issue with the M7 Pro (RisingApe). I'm also wondering if it could affect the properties of the resin over time if it's left in the vat, even when no obvious reaction occurs. Most printer brands still can't make consistently flat build plates from sample to sample, can't make printers with good enough light uniformity, or still put the optical limit switch at the very bottom of the Z axis where it causes zeroing issues (particularly with viscous resins), and not that many people talk about these issues, that doesn't mean that these aren't significant issues - same with these covers :D. Basically : there's no reason for using colours such as light grey. They're less effective than yellow / orange at blocking UV light and aren't cheaper to make. They just make our printers worse with no benefit whatsoever. I wholeheartedly agree with you that it looks nicer though :D. But I'll take ugly but properly and intelligently designed over pretty and pointlessly worse :D.
@@FauxHammer Fast doesn't best quality, reliability and ease of use which is why I'm waiting to see your take as I just can't afford the HeyGears sadly.
@@FauxHammer I don't own printer just yet so I wouldn't know but it's why I value reviews such as yours so that I can make an informed purchase. Thus I am waiting for your opinion on this as a comparison to what the Saturn has to offer. 😊 I do know though that I'm looking at trying to swing the uniformations washer curing station as a comprise vs getting the HeyGears one which is a tad pricey 😂
I recently replaced my M5 with the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra after watching your video
The convenience and simplicity of the Elegoo over Anycubic machines is just night and day.
Thank you for your reviews, the best on youtube by far as they're just so in depth yet non bias.
Hi there Ross - I don’t have any printer with ACF film. BUT, the evidence is clear: everybody who went into this rabbit whole and documented with good close-ups reached the same conclusion as yours: ACF blurs, it scatters light and the texture leaves vertical trails on the parts. It’s undeniable - I don’t need to test it myself. There are excellent photos and videos showing it clearly.
PFA for the win. ACF is a failed experiment. Resin Printing is about quality. 👍 Charming video.
Which do you think is best? ANYCUBIC Photon Mono M7 or ELEGOO SATURN 3 ULTRA?
I would love to see that 4-way battle between the Saturn 4, Saturn 4 ultra, anycubic m7 and m7 pro❤
anycubic m7,Saturn 4 ultra, my choice.
@ I have decided to go for the gktwo instead.
When I ordered my M7 Pros a few months ago, the standard M7 was already listed for preorder in the 3djake shop.
So far, I'm rather happy with the Pro - and especially the heater, which made it much easier to put the printers in the garage.
Great video, thanks for getting the printer yourself so we can get an honest and reliable opinion about it.
On the comparisons, in my opinion, there are two things, printer features and quality. The features are well presented in these videos, and the comparisons do a great direct work for those two/three/four examples, but as prices swing all the time, sometimes you are considering two printers never compared before, so you are alone for that.
About the quality, I would appreciate a standardized stress test, a hard one, until they fail, that we can compare for every printer you have ever tested. Something more suited for the website probably, but I want to take a look at those prints, in high resolution, and spend some time with them, with the ones for different printers. Something I can't do with the videos. DxOMark does the same with all cameras, and we you are checking for image quality, they are the gold standard.
Just a thought.
Hey ross, I am going to buy my first printer soon with the purpose of printing miniatures for display painting / games. are their any printers you would recommend for this?
I know you like the HeyGears Refkex RS but the price is a bit too steep for me. Do you recommend anything around ~500 euro?
Hey Ross, Amy here (no soapbox lol), I totally agree with @GeekDetour... No printer of mine would be caught dead with ACF film! I would have to take it out to the desert and shoot it Goodfellows style and bury it! And like you said in the video, speed is a DISTANT thought when seeking detail! Thank you Ross! All hail Ross lol. Comparing the M7 to the M7 Pro, hands down this is a consideration now. The vat does not have that bloated heater block on it! My god, what was Anycubic thinking? And as you also mentioned Ross, Anycubic saying this fast at 1mm layer height (or whatever)? NO ONE PRINTS AT THAT LAYER HEIGHT! Like Hello Anycubic! Do you even know for whom you are making machines for? Or are you just putting big flashing speed numbers up hoping we are to stupid to read your small print, I mean that is, when it can be found on your marketing page. Seems like Anycubic is starting to get a bit deceptive here. Would that mean they are falling behind in the resin printer game? I do have a second vat for my M5s (with PFA), for when I use clear resin or colors. I keep one vat for just my general grey resin to ensure no cross contamination. And before I go, Ross, mini Ross looks so grim and unhappy with his super large bottle of resin.
Could torquing build plate fasteners cause the results to change? Did you adjust the build plate or check it between the ACF and PFA?
Oh! Something I'm usually missing is printer reliability over the long term. Not many talk about it and IMHO it would be a game changer for deciding what printer to get. How often the screen is replaced, noises, z-axis stuck, I don't know.. maintenance overall
I'd really like to see a video like this as well. Just about every printer reviewer does print reviews of the printers as they come out, but not down the road as far as how many layers they printed in general before needing to replace the LCD. That said, most of the companies give a general lifespan for their LCDs. I suppose since most of these LCDs are the same in both Elegoo and Anycubic, you're probably going to get the same life. I think what's important, that Fauxhammer has covered before, and I wish he still did, was cover the complexity of replacing the LCD if one has to. That's one thing I really liked about the GKtwo reviews, and what almost made me get one. Thos reviews of the GKtwo, if they're the same changing as the GKthree, will be why I get one.
Can you plesse update the Fauxhammer website for the Dungeons and Dragons Adventurer magazine please? It only shows us to issue 53 but issue 54 came out last week and issue 55 is out today. Thanks
WHICH 3D Resin Printer would you prefer, based upon your knowledge and experience:
The Ultracraft Reflex RS?, or
The Uniformation GK3 Ultra?
They are wildly different machines.
The Reflex is by far the best printer from a technical point of view. But it is very locked own
Gk3 is a big printer. Do you need big? It is just a larger GKTWO.
Although I wonder if the issues with ACF are exacerbated with "lower" power UV light sources. I decided to re-use the new ACF from an M5S Pro on my Creality Halot One Pro which, despite its other deficiencies, has a banger of a UV emitter. I nearly ran into the lower limit (only 1s) on exposure time and was getting sharper prints than ever. It actually ends up printing faster than the "speedy" M5S.
looks like a solid machine. and i cant argue with the bloat acf gives
Hi Ross, firstly great videos. The M7 took me by suprice also and even more suprising is this morning I updated my Anycubic slicer and they have added two more printers. The Photon M7 Max (Same size as the M3 max) and a Mono 4 ultra. Are you aware of these machines as there is no info about them at all and you are my go to reviewer for new units. Keep up the great vids..
Hey man, you have a keen eye.
I'm really sorry, I can't respond to your question.
Hope you understand.
Thanks for the review! How are you liking the Mono 4 so far? I presume you're currently testing/reviewing it behind the curtain and video will be coming soonish.
Thanks, yeah I want to get it written and recorded tomorrow as I'm on holiday in 2 days and I'll leave this for my editor whilst I'm away. I have both the Mono 4 and Ultra. I like both but they are different.
The 4 is a bit bloated due to the Matrix LED array, so you don't really benefit much over the Mono 2, but Mono 2 is EOL now so getting parts for it soon will be impossible, The Ultra is much sharper thanks to it's COB, but it uses ACF which slightly bloats the prints, not a lot, but some. Swap to PFA and you have a solid machine.
@@FauxHammer Looking forward to your video, I can’t wait, come on
i think after all the videos i am seeing the Saturn 4 ultra will probably be my next resin printer
Good to know, thanks about those. Very informative.
I love this M7. so simple
I am nearly there to buy the Hey Gear resin printer. Can you add the Hey Gear in the next comparison video?
HeyGears comparison video will be out later today
Wow! Other than the ACF this looks really good. The M7 Pro was on my short list this year, but failed due to that vat. Thos would have been a contender.
I'm certainly locked in to my GK3 being my upcoming primary unit, but I still have a soft spot for Anycubic due to my Christmas gift Mono 4k working so well, that i could see this replacing the Mono some day.
I still have no idea how you can get away with a .25 exposure. If I go less then 1.5, the print wont even stick to the plate.
Layer exposure is 0.25s. base exposure is 35s, but this was just the starting point on the Test, it's not the exposure time I chose for prints.
@@FauxHammer And his is 1.5s which is a 6 time increase.
@@Archenuh What do you mean?
@@FauxHammer theromeog was saying that his layer (not base) exposure is 1.5s and that yours is 0.25, making it a 6 times increase over his exposure times which is just insane to think about. The screen on your M7 will last ~6 times longer due to this, and it just seemed so crazy that I had to emphasize it with a comment.
@@Archenuh Ah sorry, that's not what I meant. sorry if i communicated it that way.
I started the RERF test with a 0.25s exposure time, I expected it not to print at all yet it still printed some details.
So my sequential RERF tests were 0.25, 0.5, 0.75,1.0 and so on.
I didn't print at this exposure time, because there was not enough detail in that result. I did 1.0 or 1.25, I can't remember now as I;ve tested other printers since then
Just checked in Anycubic Workshop, it was 1.0s for 0.2mm layers of Phrozen Hyperfine.
Still looking for my 1st resin one of these days, but I think I'm leaning towards the Saturn 4 ultra based on your videos
Is it odd that when I compare speed, quality and build plates that I find myself looking at the Anycubic Mono 6Ks? It still seems to be a solid printer for some one that mostly prints and paints minis from 10mm to 32mm in size.
It is a solid printer. But I don’t know how long parts will be available if you get one now
@@FauxHammer any recommendations for a fep printer that isn't elegoo? I don't care for their new build plates design.
@@MarkWidner this is a good one. But obviously need to change the film
wonder if theres any....i dunno....snap on pour spouts? that youi can clip onto a corner of the resin tub, to make pouring less messy
Hi Ross, I would like to ask for favour. I have Elegoo Satur 4 ultra and I get software update and there is new option in menu - manual leveling. Can you check this function and make same footage about it?On web or youtube Elegoo is dead silence and seems nobody dont know about it. Thanks a lot! Have great day!Petr
I prototype a lot, daily basis. By the some token, once that done, quality is a better choice. So two vat solution, would be perfect for me.
I’ve basically decided to get the Saturn 4 based on price restrictions (and an ABS-like resin and a clean + cure kit to fit the size of Saturn models). So seeing it go head to head with another viable option would be awesome to see!!
Saturn 4 does not have RERF capability, it's pretty much a halot mage but from elegoo(so you can spend even less, if money is part of question), Saturn 4 Ultra on the other hand worth every penny with it's tilting vat and rerf, i've got it couple of days ago and it's just perfect - you pretty much has to calibrate only regular layer exposure time, can't stress enough how awesome is that.
That's great! But Anycubic never replied to my customer service inquiries (warped uv cover) so fuck em, im getting the elegoo
IMOP, the M7 is the BEST printer of this generation - in its class. Again just my option but better then S4U, Revo or GK2. Offering dynamic features to truly speed up the print that don't hurt quality. I just... replace ACF with nFEP ;)
M7 or M7 Pro?
I think it depends on the resin you use, Some resins can go really fast with NFEP, some of the harder ones can't
@@FauxHammer
The M7, The Pro is good but to make it as good I would recommend buying the M7 VAT to get away from the VAT pump.
Very true But with the M7 series you've got dynamic lift height and dynamic light off delay. So necessarily going very fast on that first stage of lifting isn't as necessary to get fast speeds because you simply aren't lifting as high or waiting as long when it's not necessary.
It also has some really cool baked in features like the first 50 layers Force 5 seconds light off delay and force a slower retract speed so that you get a better success rate. These are systems that are just not possible on a ChituSystems motherboard. Not unless you use UV tools to edit the slice. But let's be honest, that is way outside of what most people are even willing to consider.
@@J3DTech Sorry mate, I just realised who I'm talking to, i was trying to be beginner helpful...
Agreed, I prefer this vat over the Vat Pump vat any day.
I wonder if I have missed the value of the dynamic adjustments it can make because I've just not seen it in practise. It;s not clearly explained anywhere that i have found other than the marketing page that says "THIS EXISTS", So how do you try it? I typically set these machines up for rather conservative speed settings in order to ensure success over anything else.
I presume now that I need to actually go the other way and force faster speeds then even the resin can typically handle, and just expect the printer to compensate when pull forces are too high?
@@FauxHammer It's not documented well at all! But you can see in in action. Enable both option in the app on on the LCD in strangest of places - Select a print > Print Function > Enable Off Compensation & Intelligent release. Now start a dry print with 3mm lift height and 1s light off delay. Wait till layer 51, now add resistance against it lifting up, or as it goes down. You can see how the printer will adjust both settings depending on the resistance applied.
It's pretty cool to see it in action.
@@J3DTech just dropped you a message on Discord, because if this does what i think you mean it does, the way i think it does it.. I need to make a new video for the M7 Range
14:45 yup, I do all long prints at night and so the only reason for printing faster there is if I'm using low layer heights with big models because then the time can get very long but they are advertising 100um so redundant. Time per layer is what they should say (with and without cure time as that varies per resin but also uv intensity)
On the ACF thing... turns out some new PFA films are actually slightly cloudy leading to similar lines to ACF, especially elegoo, I know someone testing a bunch atm
Could the M7 vat work with the pro machine? Might be a nice way to swap vats without having to buy one with a heater slapped on it!
yes it can. and does.
@@FauxHammer Great news!
I think, the current progression towards speed in trade of quality - whilst compensating with even higher resolution displays, that only cost significant more and don't impact the overall print as much as the ACF liner or example - is the absolute wrong move here. The other way around it would make more sense. Drop the expensive ACF and give the people the choice to "upgrade" to it. The actions to gain more speed in this and the last generations is just progression. You could equip the original anycubic photon with an acf liner and a super viscous resin and massive lifts and layerheights - the result would be the absolute same. Try to compare a "4k" Mars 3pro print to a "9k" Mars 4 non-ultra print. it's so insignificant, "normal" people couldn't tell a difference. So if anyone prefers speed over quality - there are countless possibilities to achieve this, without buying a new printer. Why exactly should I buy this if I don't?
Crazy that they still have that touch recognition problem on their screen, that already annoyed me back on my original Mono.
At least it demonstrates that the resin side of the industry also needs a disruption akin to Bambu Lab that forces manufacturers to finally do their homework.
Saturn 4 ultra, or Anycubic m7 or m7 pro?
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All printers have evolved to an equal point Modular systems with different add on are next But it’s the time of the slicer to raise their game Lychee Slicer and Chitubox need to match Heygears slicer When we have this 100% reliable resin presets built into the slicer then it will be game set and match to the user here’s hoping
I've would like to hear more detail about the Anti aliasing performance. I left Anycubic years ago because of its absence in the original Mono X and continuous lies about its futur implementation. The AA test you showed are not that impressive. My launch model Saturn 2 has flawless AA. Look injection molded with a macro lens. I'm would buy the M7 today but I'm hesitating because of this.
How big does the printer have to be, before they start adding or molding handles in the lid 🙄
Any reviews in the pipeline for the anycubic mono 4 (ultra) with the 10K screen?
Sat behind me right now, gimmie a couple of weeks.
That
@@FauxHammer Perfect! Thanks for the M7 review. I'm eyeing my first resin printer after acquiring the A1 mini and the mono 4 (ultra) looks like good candidate (the Phrozen mini 8ks would be the alternative).
I don't get how they could charge £100 more for this than the Saturn 4 Ultra? Makes no sense to me why anyone would pick this.
does it let you adjust your z height?
yes, but i believe it also dynamically monitors the pressure of the plate during early layers to avoid compression too. STill waiting for some actually useful info from Anycubic.
This printer reminds me of the S3U but is better. For me, I prefer ACF always. Not only is it fast, but you also don't need as much support for your print. This means fewer support marks, and any potential quality loss will be covered when you prime and color your print. The only downside to ACF is that it's expensive and fragile.
Hopefully it’s not rude to ask here but anyone know what’s happening with that heygears printer giveaway a few weeks ago I didn’t find it clear on where the the winner would be or was announced?
heya, not rude at all, It will be on a livestream, but the video is still about 24,000 views away from making a draw
Ah thanks for the heads up love the videos
Fast prints are great for props.
just got a1 combo cuz of u so mfar so good just alot of poop and .2 nozzle first layer is whack but thanks fro advice (i was picking either a1 or kobra 3
So, other than it having a slightly bigger screen and marginally larger build size is it really any better than my AC Photon Mono 6Ks?
Out of the box, print quality wise, I'd say it's possibly worse.
Hey FauxHammer. Thanks for all your videos they are always informative and entertaining. Love being a member of your channel. I'm going to be buying a second GKtwo soon, is your affiliate link on your original Gktwo video still active?
Until next time, Nick...out!
@@nicholassmith5206 lol. Thanks man. Yep it is. On my original video and anywhere else I’ve linked to it. Thank you again. Glad to have you onboard.
@@FauxHammer my pleasure mate. With out you I'd have bought a creality and given up 10 months ago hahaha.
@@FauxHammer Kinda what I thought. Anycubic and most of the other manufacturers need only look to Bambu Labs or Uniformation for a logical business model. I can see the value of adding or upgrading vs dropping $ on the latest shiny object.
There's definitely quite an overemphasis on speed instead of quality these days; wonder when the two of them will meet on something outside of a bambu printer 🤔
Just the Saturn 4 v M7 please.
I have a 10 printer farm. Have never once really cared about Speed. Quality matters. That's it.
I find it incredible how wifi capability is still "innovative" on resin printers when a 3 euro controller board has that built in
Looks like a great printer, but WOW I'm not a fan of the removable lids. :)
Why do they keep doing this! Stealth launches?
Change the film mid-print and then ask people which halve do they prefer without telling them what changed.
where i live this printer its less than half the price than the mono and other 3d printers of the same size.
I cannot buy a replacement screen for my 2.5 year old AnyCubic Mono X 4k. Never buying this brand again.
Sure you can. Chitu Systems sells them.
Nice, can I suggest not encouraging manufacturers to move away from the "boring" yellow / orange lids they used to manufacture in favour of the multitude of colours we've seen recently ? These new blue / red / grey covers tend to filter UV light very poorly in comparison to the more "classic" covers we've seen.
Forgive me, but it;s not something I've ever thought to test? what problem does this cause. I thought it was fairly common not to put these things near sunlight anyway?
BVut I;m not really encouraging, I'm just saying it looks nicer. I;d be surprised it was such an issue with so many brands doing it and I haven't seen any massive issues reported due to these changes. Elegoo has used red for years, Anycubic used blue.
I thought UV is closer to the blue spectrum than Yellow anyway? is the issue not more about cover opacity than colour?
@@FauxHammer Indirect light can still contain some UV light and some people may put their printers in environments where some will get to the printer, particularly over time.
UV is indeed closer to blue than yellow, which is exactly why the latter naturally is more capable of filtering it than blue :D. A perfectly black and opaque cover would also effectively block UV light, but the genius thing about using good old yellow / orange covers is that they can still be highly transparent so you can see what's going on inside while being just as effective at blocking UV light as a fully opaque black cover.
People do experience issues because of these poorly thought through covers, in fact one TH-camr had that exact issue with the M7 Pro (RisingApe). I'm also wondering if it could affect the properties of the resin over time if it's left in the vat, even when no obvious reaction occurs. Most printer brands still can't make consistently flat build plates from sample to sample, can't make printers with good enough light uniformity, or still put the optical limit switch at the very bottom of the Z axis where it causes zeroing issues (particularly with viscous resins), and not that many people talk about these issues, that doesn't mean that these aren't significant issues - same with these covers :D.
Basically : there's no reason for using colours such as light grey. They're less effective than yellow / orange at blocking UV light and aren't cheaper to make. They just make our printers worse with no benefit whatsoever.
I wholeheartedly agree with you that it looks nicer though :D. But I'll take ugly but properly and intelligently designed over pretty and pointlessly worse :D.
For me, I don't care how long a print takes, as long as it doesn't fail..
Thanks
I feel offended always having printed minis at 0.01 🥲 Which is why I'm happy with the rapid speed of the Saturn 4 Ultra.
Yeah, it's so fast right!
@@FauxHammer Fast doesn't best quality, reliability and ease of use which is why I'm waiting to see your take as I just can't afford the HeyGears sadly.
@@chaley2935 you don’t like the Saturn? I really like the Saturn 4. Which does beat it on print quality “out of the box”
@@FauxHammer I don't own printer just yet so I wouldn't know but it's why I value reviews such as yours so that I can make an informed purchase. Thus I am waiting for your opinion on this as a comparison to what the Saturn has to offer. 😊 I do know though that I'm looking at trying to swing the uniformations washer curing station as a comprise vs getting the HeyGears one which is a tad pricey 😂
@@chaley2935 Fair enough, I do have M7 Vs Saturn video coming. but it;s weeks away. (but I'd wait for Black Friday at this point anyway mate)