These have been brilliant vids Cam, Neil clearly knows his stuff. Here's an idea for your next video: Do a completely system driven bike fit on a Retul or something and see how different the results are vs Neil's setup
Thanks for making this video. After watching, I went from 175mm cranks to 170mm and it's really helped my cycling as I'm also able to roll my hips forward and get lower on the bike while being more comfortable too. My cadence has gone up about 6 rpm, as has my speed and I'm able to ride comfortably in the drops now. I do notice a little less torque off the line.
I'm so grateful that you've uploaded these videos, I used some of his advice from another one of your videos and was just able to ride way longer at the same level of fatigue, even with the fact that I've been pretty lazy over the course of the pandemic. Just wanted to say that these videos are amazingly insightful, it's really great to hear him talk about all of this stuff and the variations of each component to make the bigger, more efficient picture. After learning some of this, I really wish more people had access to a proper bike fit, I honestly think it would make cycling much more enjoyable and it'd help grow the sport.
I have 78cm inseam with one leg shorter(12mm)and I went from 170's to 165's and it seemed like to big of a jump, I finally found some Shimano DA 167.5 cranks which is perfect! I do train with both now being the 167.5 and 170's I find it helps for a more balance pedal stroke! Great job guys really enjoy your fitting sessions!
(5'2"/1.17 m)I generally run 170 or 172.5. I have one bike with 165s on them. It's a 89 Allez, I think. It's nominally the smallest bike I own (a 46 cm). It's also the bike I have set up on the indoor trainer where I've been training for the last two and a half months. I noticed that a I produce a higher cadence where I always thought I was more comfortable at a lower cadence due to my muscle type (female) but now this all has me thinking about what may really be going on. Thanks for sharing your bike fit!
In theory there are positional benefits, sure, but you must watch what it does to your natural cadence efficacy window. This is easier to deal with if you have lots of cogs and so forth but often overlooked by people that only look at power curves and not checking for detailed patterns when limits are reached. It's yet another reason to look carefully at cog choices and make sure the gaps aren't too big for you when you're approaching your limits of exertion. To be safe, if nothing else, spend a little extra time on pedal smoothness when on the trainer and see how that carries over. The kind of positional changes being discussed amplify the importance of working on the new cadence window.
Great series. Really opened my eyes to a few things I hadn’t considered. Wish my crank had the adjustable toggle the Look Zed had. But don’t get too comfortable, the only constant is change. Throw a red spacer on that chimney! A slammed stem should be celebrated! Peace and power!
I had a 175 crank and my knee was bending to high wich resulted in knee pain. I switched to 172,5 and in a week al the pain was gone. That is also a reason to consider a shorter crank
yea i was thinking of getting shorter cranks as of right now me knees are hitting me chest but my saddle is at the correct height how much of a height difference did it do for you with 2.5 mm change?
@@simedinson984 i didn't change my seat hight, because with changing 2,5mm you can make a mistace easy. It could have been that my saddle was a bit to high before
simon edin but a 175 crank was for sure to long as i am around 1,75 m. So it is normal that my seat was to low for the top of the stroke but if i would have set it higher it would have been to high for the bottom of the stroke.
Saddle height changes are interesting. I recently picked up a bike with 172.5 cranks (vs my usual 175 crank length) and I have found that the saddle needs to go higher than just the difference in the crank length. This I imagine would only help that pelvis rotational thing you talk about even more. Oh yeah....don't blame the dog :)
I’m going through this change right now. (TT bike and soon road bike) It might take some time for you to adjust to hill climbing and sprinting. Sustained efforts should feel great right away though. I’m going to give myself the rest of this season and offseason (winter) to get used to the change.
Ive done the same about 2 months ago on my TT bike and its really allowed we to get much more aero and produce more power which was unexpected. At 53 years old have been PBing many of my regular routes that Ive been riding for 30 years. Somn time to do the same on my road bike.
I have sore hips and diagnosed hip impingements, did research and crank length is a probable self improvement to reduce the leg angle at its height. Unfortunately for a mtb you can't just get shorter crank lengths it's damn near impossible, i bought a new 12speed groupset which allowed me to go from 175 to 170 , but according to various websites I am more around 160-165mm ideally. Big market out their for crankset makers!
Hey thanks for the series. I have a terrible hip impingement. I have been thinking on the 165mm Cranks for my BMC for 3 yrs, now I’m definitely going for them... let’s see if it helps, even a little would be amazing.
Cam Nicholls assembled the 160mm Shimano Cranks 2 days ago (down from the 175mm, big step but can’t afford doing smaller increases) So far feels good, I noticed the higher cadence and lighter pinch in my hip. Could I be dreaming or I also felt some power output increase? Only tried the it on the Kickr so far so I’ll have to see what happens going up the hills.
Crank lengths have been trending shorter for about 7 years in pro circles. This has been driven by acknowledgement of benefits of higher cadence and drag reduction via lower back angles. For 25 years, the road racing world overlooked that shorter cranks, higher cadence, lower back have been the rule not the exception in track cycling. The greatest obstacles to this trickling down to amateurs are - excess bodyfat, especially visceral - stiffer spines - tighter hams and spine muscles - hip joint asymmetry and osteoarthritic degeneration which includes FAI. Nevertheless, as one ages, shorter cranks should be the rule, as they reduce stress not only on knee and hip joints, but the lower spine. One thing bike fitters and physios are not well versed in, is the role of diet and hydration in preventing joint and muscle stiffness. Anyone carrying weight will be stiffer universally. The elephant in the room regarding cycling comfort, performance, and endurance is still the factor preferentially ignored by most - diet.
When i first read the header of this clip i thought the BMC was gone...to ebay ! but noooo ! he is still well and alive ! ...to have a fit guy going to your place is a luxury that i don't have and i know how important is this to have a good fit..why do i know you ask ? well i'll tell you..i currenty have 3 bikes, a Cervelo, a Argon 18 and my latest purchase a Giant Defy Advanced. This last one is my most recent purchase..done without a proper fit..due to covid ! And i can feel it, i have some physical problems with the Giant that i don't have we the other two, strange wrist problems..and my butt is constanly sliding off my saddle. i'll get a proper fit to my giant this week so things might get better for me.. Don't quit Cam..eventually you'll find a perfect comfort on the BMC ..and then sell it ! lol..Cheers from Montreal Canada !
hi cam just found your channel lately ,have to say great viewing and very informative,to say the least , just got my scwalbe marathon plus (which are even heavier than the regular marathons with even more puncture protection) happy days ,i now have just under 3kg handicap over my race wheels,thanks to you and your mate stiggles great idea and great tip, My question is in relation to your hand position on the hoods and handle bar width ,looks a bit off to me like your bars are to wide , just read this back and i sound like a a total prick asking ,just interested i promise , IM A BIG FAN , keep up the good work mate, need to work out how to shout you a coffee
Thanks for supporting the channel mate. Never had anyone say that and Neill hasn’t picked up on the handlebar width. But may need to look into that now!
Cam, Very nice TH-cam 👍. Please note however that aerodynamic drag is proportional to the "square" of the speed and not the "cube" of speed, as mentioned at time stamp 9:15.
You got me thinking...... I'm actually thinking about seeing a bike fitter. I have my 165 crank sitting in the bike shed.... I may just take it with me. Perhaps it failed the first time because I wasnt fitted right.
Went from 175 to 170 and the difference was instant. I'm not even a weekend warrior but longer distances, steeper climbs and general comfort all improved. Definitely don't need to get out of the saddle so much now as everything is more manageable but for a roadie that might no be so good in a sprint situation. Even for a race oriented rider comfort must play a part in energy saving? Note to self "Always watch until the end before commenting so your comment doesn't look like you just repeated what was in the video and make yourself look like a dick" 😂😂
Cam, you have done several bike fittings with Neil and they have been very interesting and informational. I wonder if you have any power meter data related to power, heart rate, cadence, peak power and average power doing a either time trial or a road race so we could quantify measurable differences resulting from bike fitment....
@@CamNicholls Here's the thing, all of these changes, while they make hypothetical sense, they don't really show how if affects the real world power and speed data. Regardless of your fitness, you should do something like a 20 minute power test or a short time trial to illustrate what the changes actually accomplish in these regards to those important numbers......
Great article that I’ve watch a few times now. Just had my bike fit and what do you know hip impingement found and a leg length discrepancy, shim fitted and moving to 165s.....
Curious if anyone had the opposite effect with lateral cleat position and shorter cranks? I just switched from 175 to 165 and when I first rode I got a ton of pain in my right knee (pes ansurinus), which was super strange because normally it was my left the last 6 months, never once had right knee pain. I then tried moving my seat forward (to use less hamstring for the pes related pain) and cleats in so my feet would move outwards (wider q factor). My theory behind this is that if you look at where your foot was connected to a 175 crank, relative to the bottom bracket, and then you shorten that 10mm, to keep your foot in the same spot laterally, you would have to go a touch wider. Does this make sense or am I out in left field?
l find all these changes quite interesting please let us know asap how it turns out . l recall starting out on 170s then 172s and 175s on my other bikes . The 175s use a 46T chainrings x1 ,one on my old road bike one on my MTB with biopace ring !! l spin more on the 172s on the carbon trek my fastest bike with SPDs too which really helps with sprinting and my first 50+km hr !! BUT 47km hr on the other two bikes is not slow either at a lower cadence . PS l put my old road wheels onto my MTB making a city hybrid out of it , l like it for coffee /shopping runs :) l think a light weight ,compact ,high end cromo frame with 28+mm tires would make a great all round road bike :)
I am 5’ 5 1/2 65 year old man and been using 170 mm crank set for ten years now but I feel comfortable with that size but when I watched this video I m considering to switch to 165 mm or 160.5. I don’t know if I should I wish you can give me your advice if I should go to the shorter cranks! Thank you!
I have the same quarq Dfour DUB powermeter and crankset. I switched from 172,5 to 167,5 after watching this! Today was my first on it and all ready loving it! But there are also a lot off small things that I have to get used to. But I was wondering did you change the settings off your quarq from changing the crank length from 172,5 to 165? Because I know I did on the older models from quarq. Please let me know. Gerrie
Great explanation of changes from swapping to 165mm cranks, Cam can you tell us what physical or other actual differences you feel while riding the bike and if you think it would be worthwhile for a more social/weekend warrior as oppossed to race orientated rider. Cheers.
Very interesting. I'm about to go for my first bike fit, and I'm already mystified by how a Size L Defy Advanced 2 still makes me feel like I could do with it being a tad more compact in size (despite me being 190). Perhaps this could be part of it - short of getting a shorter stem. Thank you for the excellent content, Cam! Greetings from Moscow.
Can someone explain to me what happened in the little vignette with the phone booth at the beginning? I don't speak Australian, and I might have missed something crucial in a previous episode.
Cam, as to the hip impingement, i wonder if, as you get older the worse it gets. It may not have been as obvious when you were younger. I know that I have found that I have become alot less flexible the older I get. As you get older (from mid 30's onwards ) stretching for flexibility becomes more and more important.
A question regarding shims. What if instead of using a shim on the shorter leg, is it possible to just use a thicker pedal? let say for flat pedals, you use a thicker one on the shorter leg and a thinner pedal on the other. Would that have the same effect of using a shim? really interested on this specific topic. Thanks!
When you roll your pelvis forwards, doesn't that move your weight from your sit bones to the soft and sensitive area sometimes called the "taint"? Second, for those of us with hand numbness (me for example) wouldn't rolling forward increase the load on the hands? (because the cm of the torso shifts farther from the hops, causing a higher moment to be overcome by the core muscles?
Indeed, this is due to Cam's right hip drop that we noted (pushes the left knee away from the centreline of the bike). We resolved this by making the changes mentioned in the video, that footage shows how much it was affecting him!
I have pain on my right knee because of over pronation, do you think shorter cranks will be an effective solution to spare some movement on my knees, thus preventing some pain?
Hi Cam Understand this is simplistic factor, but out of interest, what sort of height and kgs are you? And are you generally considered to have have a longer torso or legs? Thanks for the great videos. Just got some of those inner soles to help foot pain, along with pushing cleats back a few mm. Cheers Cam (me).
The fitter seems to be advocating cutting the steerer tube to an unsafe length. The steerer tube should extend at least 5 mm above the top of the stem so that the stem is not clamping the end of the steerer tube. I'll try to do a video on the topic today.
Even a 2mm proud stem will be enough to preload the bearings properly, as long as the top cap is pulling onto the stem and not the steerer tube you're all good
@@CamNicholls Yes, he advocates leaving it, but for the wrong reason. He seems to be totally unaware that there is a safety issue involved with clamping carbon fiber steerer tubes at their end.
Crank length is one of the least "adjustable" dimensions on a bike, and often overlooked even in a proper fit. I had a bad knee injury that has now limited its range of motion. I ride 140mm cranks with the cleat near my heel and have one set that is 110mm. Those I can ride with both cleats in normal position. Huge thanks to Mark at www.bikesmithdesign.com for enabling these crazy crank lengths.
Not sure what the chimney issue is. Personally, I wonder if the length of the chimney could be proportional to the amount you’re smoking your competition!
The main issue for me is that it can lead to a damaged carbon steerer tube. Check lueschers video about that. Depends on the bike and length tough. A ridiculous high chimney is also not very pleasing to the eye.
I understand that the shorter cranks reduce the range of motion through the pedal stroke and that would be beneficial if you have some hip impingement, but putting the saddle back and lowering the handlebars will reduce the angle between your torso and thigh. Maybe I'm missing something? Genuinely interested mate, not trying to wind you up.
Please please please help me, I need major help I being having some really bad pain in the left lower back after about a hour of right, and not having someone amazing as your friend Available to fit me as he does what could he tell me to try to change to see if I can stop that. Does he has a Facebook or some way we can chat please help me.
So you lowered your bars, panicked, spoke to Neil. Rode for a few days, Neil came back to your on his day off, got dry jumped by your dog. He lowered your bars further, undid 60% of the original fit, and decided you are a rare case (awkward), overweight (but flexible) and reduced your Q factor by 5mm. Ffs man Neil must dread seeing your number come up, which is probably why you seem to call him from pay phones. 🤣🤣🤣 Great video Cam, your videosare a highlight of my week, thank you for the effort and content you provide. Lovely home BTW.👍
All part of the fun, people's positions always change when you alter their crank length, this was fairly standard except for the Q-factor change, I wasn't expecting that one so much!
Hi I'm also 178cm height, I have like 3 different fit , my actual saddle height its 76cm but also got 76.5cm and 75cm from the others Fitters , 52cm /52.5cm Reach 8cm Drop used to have 12cm ( to much aggressive for my lower back) I'm curious about ur Saddle Height. Nice Channel and Content, Take Care from Puerto Rico.
It is not all that simple. If you are fairly flexible you can handle many position on the bike for short or long time. Sort time is 1.5 hours. I keep my stem 120-130mm for handling reason. It is better for bad descender like me. For flat ride I can go shorter reach and shorter stem. My height is 183 cm, inseam 90 cm, longer lower leg and long arms, short torso. So, not ideal for bike fit. For long ride I prefer 97cm saddle height from pedals, saddle nose 7 cm behind BB, 61 cm reach and 17 cm drop. My crank choice is 170mm but I experimenting with 165. My knee sometime kick my ribs but it is not bad. Saddle tilt is 4-5 degrees. I can ride like that all day but sprinting or chasing PB climb is not option. It is for long sustain effort. For steep climb I need to go forward to saddle tip. It is for lower back. For short ride, PB climb or crit races my setup will be different. saddle height from pedals 98 cm, saddle nose 3 cm behind BB, 54 cm reach and 12-14 cm drop. Stem can be shorter. No saddle tilt. My crank choice is 175mm. In that position it is impossible for me to be completely aero, but I have large torque on pedals. Sprinting is much easier. But after 1.5 hour my hands hurts me in many different ways. That setup is TT setup for me. I can put tri bars and enjoy that kind of ride. That is 2 completely different position on bike and there are pros and cons. I'm not bike fitter or pro cyclist. I'm 48 years old with 35 years on road bike, lots of medical issues with my larger joints. Every wrong movement hurts like hell and after that 7 days in bed is guarantied. I know that my position is very aggressive and that is good for me. In my opinion everybody can go aero and low with proper bike fit. But, bike fitters rarely do that. After bike fit you can put shopping bag on your handlebars and go shopping. That is only purpose of bike fit. You need to learn that is 10 position on handlebars and 3 position on saddle. Changing that on ride is crucial. Different position for different terrain and situation.
Cam Nicholls oh thank goodness. I thought that I had imagined it, then the reality was much rounder. Looking back though I see that it was Ferrari-like, not Lamborghini-like.
Question: I have a same rim break SLR01 bike as yours and I found that my rare break gives me a sponge feeling while I try to break, and also the break cable tend to stuck inside the housing while I turn the handlebars towards the left. Do you have the the same break problem? Is there anything I could do to solve this?
Hi Cam, if I may ask, just to compare to myself, what is your height, inseam on your legs and what size bike do you ride? It seems like a huge change to make from 172.5 to 165mm? Cheers
Surely the seat getting pushed back, negates any "open" angle you achieved from 165mm cranks? Would using the 172.5mm cranks with a longer stem and a forward seat achieve the same thing? You still have the habit of "re-seating" highlighted in your challenging 1 hour ftp test on the indoor trainer outdoors. A habit rather than bike comfort thing?
GCN did a study on shorter cranks. Max watts decreased by 100 watts while all other measurements stayed within 1/3% [slight reduction with shorter cranks [3% is a big deal in my book]. There's a bike fitter on U tube that proved seat position affects hip impingement more than crank length or seat height [so, can't remember fitter's name].
Found it. Peak Torque on U tube. Minute 2:58 screen shot - 4. Effective seat tube angle has larger influence on hip angle than crank length. Peak torque is an engineer, not bio-mechanical engineer [bike fitter].
Shouldn't the stem be shortened too? Your legs seem to work at a smaller angle, so raising your seat doesn't seem a good idea unless you do do some pretty good stretching of your backside leg muscles or your hips will continue de swing a lot with the associated unnecessary disc pressure.
@@CamNicholls The body is a fantastic machine and it will adapt which doesn't mean that is working well. In the previous comment I forgot to tell you that your knees also seem too open in relation to your feet. A static setup alone is not a good idea in my opinion but it can be a starting point. I've seen a lot of videos about people talking about bike-body setup, the majority of times they are pushing their service or their merchandize or just parroting the same old ideas, even in pro cycling. I don't claim to be right I'm just talking about my experience and my observations. Ride with someone and ask them to watch your feet, hips and spine from the back and then your hands/arms and spine from the side. Starting from the lowest point of contact and the power transmission device, the feet; stand barefoot in the floor with your ankles touching - having something with a square pattern underneath like a A2 size hobby cutting board is great, jump enough to lift (ca. 10cm) off the floor and land on the ball of the feet which are the contact point with the pedals. Observe how they land, parallel, diverging, converging, repeat 10x, 15x until you have a distance and angle more or less defined. This will help you devise your "stance width" and the fore or aft position in the pedals, if you can do this with something of the width of your saddle between your legs the better. The tilting of the hips is solved in the majority of the cases by lowering the saddle a bit (5mm each time) until it stops rocking this will also eliminate the rocking of the spine and as a bonus you get two steady anchor points to put the power down and less fatigue. The spine is in the majority of the situations our shock absorber, a straight spine will have less ability to flex and the spine functions better bending forward than backward. As a basis for achieving better body response I'd point Yoga as a very good way of acquiring more elasticity and flexibility as well as walking barefoot which will help you strengthen your neurological and muscular systems from your feet up to your head. There are studies done with young riders that claim that with stretching you lose some responsiveness, but since the majority of us aren't professional riders, I'd rather have the ability to keep riding longer with less injuries. Unfortunately won't keep you from eventually falling ;).
@@CamNicholls Hi Cam and Neill, Great video, super content, thanks! I am also a former (and actual) rower. Was rowing always to the right. So my right shoulder is lower, and a recent bikefit revealed that my hip is turning to the right. Having heavy upper body and neck pain also; with only 4cm of bar drop. Thinking to get a shorter bike 54->53cm top tube and changing to 165mm cranks from 172,5 (I am 172cm tall with s 79cm inseam). The maximum bar stack would be 1cm lower which would result in 2cm more bar drop by raising the saddle a bit. Do you think that is okay? Do you have less neck ache since the crank change with the slammed stem? Your answear would be very much appretiated ; -) Daniel
Neill Stanbury Fantastic! Do you know of any good books or other materials that can teach the basics of bike fit? I'd like to at least get it semi-dialed in here at home.
Mate your left knee from the front view is still tracking off your center line at the top of the stroke quite noticeably compared to your right. Is there anything you can do about that????
@@CamNicholls I am glad you are getting it better, I also used to have my left knee doing that and it would give me some not so nice ankle issues. I hope you feel the improvements and thanks for the videos mate. I enjoy your content
Cam you're so funny bro with the slammed stem Choo Choo train 🚂 😂 I can relate though, I finally took out the last spacer and fully slammed my stem 2 weeks ago. 😅👍
Hi Cam, whats Neils thoughts on changing your saddle to a brand that keeps you in the one position such as a Selle SMP Drakon or equivalent. I acknowledge no two cyclists are the same in their position. At 08:32 & 08:45 in your video you either have burning balls or your doing what I constantly did, keep shifting along the seat trying to find that sweet spot on the seat to get the most power out. The Selle SMP Drakon in my case solved my problem. Great vid as always.
That's great looking road bike! No top slanded top bar! No ugly disc brakes! No big fat tires! This new trend of road bikes looking like over sized female Mountain bikes is just offensive to the eye.
How tall are you? I bought BMC ALR01 one two days ago (partly because of you(r) channel) and I have to adjust it because the first ride was not that good
@@CamNicholls Yeah, that's funny. But makes sense. When you're not too much in shape you are able to get one floor up. Otherwise you had to buy an endurance bike like me. 😅
These have been brilliant vids Cam, Neil clearly knows his stuff. Here's an idea for your next video: Do a completely system driven bike fit on a Retul or something and see how different the results are vs Neil's setup
Actually that would be a good one Oli, I'd like to see that too!
This video really sparked up my interest in crank length differences
Thanks for making this video. After watching, I went from 175mm cranks to 170mm and it's really helped my cycling as I'm also able to roll my hips forward and get lower on the bike while being more comfortable too. My cadence has gone up about 6 rpm, as has my speed and I'm able to ride comfortably in the drops now. I do notice a little less torque off the line.
I'm so grateful that you've uploaded these videos, I used some of his advice from another one of your videos and was just able to ride way longer at the same level of fatigue, even with the fact that I've been pretty lazy over the course of the pandemic. Just wanted to say that these videos are amazingly insightful, it's really great to hear him talk about all of this stuff and the variations of each component to make the bigger, more efficient picture. After learning some of this, I really wish more people had access to a proper bike fit, I honestly think it would make cycling much more enjoyable and it'd help grow the sport.
👍
I have 78cm inseam with one leg shorter(12mm)and I went from 170's to 165's and it seemed like to big of a jump, I finally found some Shimano DA 167.5 cranks which is perfect! I do train with both now being the 167.5 and 170's I find it helps for a more balance pedal stroke! Great job guys really enjoy your fitting sessions!
Interesting stuff, thanks for sharing Hedly. Cam
Another good video. Looking forward to hearing more about your experience of all the changes
This is amazing, gran finale!
btw the drag goes up with the square of the speed, the power is the one that goes up with the cubic root.
The best channel on bike fitting!
❤
totally wish I lived near Neil would definitely work with him, love both of your guys work!!
(5'2"/1.17 m)I generally run 170 or 172.5. I have one bike with 165s on them. It's a 89 Allez, I think. It's nominally the smallest bike I own (a 46 cm). It's also the bike I have set up on the indoor trainer where I've been training for the last two and a half months. I noticed that a I produce a higher cadence where I always thought I was more comfortable at a lower cadence due to my muscle type (female) but now this all has me thinking about what may really be going on. Thanks for sharing your bike fit!
Good outcome, as i said the smaller cranks allow the less leg lift and the seat goes higher. So chop chop was in keeping with the change.
In theory there are positional benefits, sure, but you must watch what it does to your natural cadence efficacy window. This is easier to deal with if you have lots of cogs and so forth but often overlooked by people that only look at power curves and not checking for detailed patterns when limits are reached. It's yet another reason to look carefully at cog choices and make sure the gaps aren't too big for you when you're approaching your limits of exertion. To be safe, if nothing else, spend a little extra time on pedal smoothness when on the trainer and see how that carries over. The kind of positional changes being discussed amplify the importance of working on the new cadence window.
Great series. Really opened my eyes to a few things I hadn’t considered. Wish my crank had the adjustable toggle the Look Zed had. But don’t get too comfortable, the only constant is change. Throw a red spacer on that chimney! A slammed stem should be celebrated! Peace and power!
Cheers Larison 👍
Great video, I hope the new fit works a treat for you. A tight psoas muscle could cause a rocking hip.
Looking better from your older position. Now to wait for your testing for improvements 🥰
Im amazed how you spec the changes to the 1 mm accuracy Also good to see Kickr 'works' without power pluged in.
I've always loved your stem Cam. No matter the length.
🤣🤣🤣
hahaha! I just saw this. Hope all is well mate.
This video lit me up! Keep up the good work!
Lost about 10lbs so far during Covid, and added around 25 watts to my FTP!
Congrats man!
Nice work!
Stayed discipline on actual base and build, along with having to pack my lunch instead of fast food made a huge difference.
I had a 175 crank and my knee was bending to high wich resulted in knee pain. I switched to 172,5 and in a week al the pain was gone. That is also a reason to consider a shorter crank
yea i was thinking of getting shorter cranks as of right now me knees are hitting me chest but my saddle is at the correct height how much of a height difference did it do for you with 2.5 mm change?
@@simedinson984 i didn't change my seat hight, because with changing 2,5mm you can make a mistace easy. It could have been that my saddle was a bit to high before
@@maartends6051 sounds to me that your seat was to low if anything but yea :)
For the top of the stroke
simon edin but a 175 crank was for sure to long as i am around 1,75 m. So it is normal that my seat was to low for the top of the stroke but if i would have set it higher it would have been to high for the bottom of the stroke.
Saddle height changes are interesting. I recently picked up a bike with 172.5 cranks (vs my usual 175 crank length) and I have found that the saddle needs to go higher than just the difference in the crank length. This I imagine would only help that pelvis rotational thing you talk about even more. Oh yeah....don't blame the dog :)
I’m going through this change right now. (TT bike and soon road bike) It might take some time for you to adjust to hill climbing and sprinting. Sustained efforts should feel great right away though. I’m going to give myself the rest of this season and offseason (winter) to get used to the change.
Ive done the same about 2 months ago on my TT bike and its really allowed we to get much more aero and produce more power which was unexpected. At 53 years old have been PBing many of my regular routes that Ive been riding for 30 years. Somn time to do the same on my road bike.
I have sore hips and diagnosed hip impingements, did research and crank length is a probable self improvement to reduce the leg angle at its height. Unfortunately for a mtb you can't just get shorter crank lengths it's damn near impossible, i bought a new 12speed groupset which allowed me to go from 175 to 170 , but according to various websites I am more around 160-165mm ideally. Big market out their for crankset makers!
Hey thanks for the series. I have a terrible hip impingement. I have been thinking on the 165mm Cranks for my BMC for 3 yrs, now I’m definitely going for them... let’s see if it helps, even a little would be amazing.
Good luck mate, keep me posted. Love to hear
Cam Nicholls assembled the 160mm Shimano Cranks 2 days ago (down from the 175mm, big step but can’t afford doing smaller increases) So far feels good, I noticed the higher cadence and lighter pinch in my hip. Could I be dreaming or I also felt some power output increase? Only tried the it on the Kickr so far so I’ll have to see what happens going up the hills.
Crank lengths have been trending shorter for about 7 years in pro circles.
This has been driven by acknowledgement of benefits of higher cadence and drag reduction via lower back angles.
For 25 years, the road racing world overlooked that shorter cranks, higher cadence, lower back have been the rule not the exception in track cycling.
The greatest obstacles to this trickling down to amateurs are
- excess bodyfat, especially visceral
- stiffer spines
- tighter hams and spine muscles
- hip joint asymmetry and osteoarthritic degeneration which includes FAI.
Nevertheless, as one ages, shorter cranks should be the rule, as they reduce stress not only on knee and hip joints, but the lower spine.
One thing bike fitters and physios are not well versed in, is the role of diet and hydration in preventing joint and muscle stiffness.
Anyone carrying weight will be stiffer universally.
The elephant in the room regarding cycling comfort, performance, and endurance is still the factor preferentially ignored by most - diet.
When i first read the header of this clip i thought the BMC was gone...to ebay ! but noooo ! he is still well and alive ! ...to have a fit guy going to your place is a luxury that i don't have and i know how important is this to have a good fit..why do i know you ask ? well i'll tell you..i currenty have 3 bikes, a Cervelo, a Argon 18 and my latest purchase a Giant Defy Advanced. This last one is my most recent purchase..done without a proper fit..due to covid ! And i can feel it, i have some physical problems with the Giant that i don't have we the other two, strange wrist problems..and my butt is constanly sliding off my saddle. i'll get a proper fit to my giant this week so things might get better for me.. Don't quit Cam..eventually you'll find a perfect comfort on the BMC ..and then sell it ! lol..Cheers from Montreal Canada !
haha, yes very fortunate to have Neill now coming over! Cheers Pierre
If you use a -17°stem the chimney will be gone since the stem sits higher but handlebar will stay in the same position.
hi cam just found your channel lately ,have to say great viewing and very informative,to say the least , just got my scwalbe marathon plus (which are even heavier than the regular marathons with even more puncture protection) happy days ,i now have just under 3kg handicap over my race wheels,thanks to you and your mate stiggles great idea and great tip, My question is in relation to your hand position on the hoods and handle bar width ,looks a bit off to me like your bars are to wide , just read this back and i sound like a a total prick asking ,just interested i promise , IM A BIG FAN , keep up the good work mate, need to work out how to shout you a coffee
Thanks for supporting the channel mate. Never had anyone say that and Neill hasn’t picked up on the handlebar width. But may need to look into that now!
Love your videos. Keep up the great work. 👌
Cheers Alain
Cam,
Very nice TH-cam 👍.
Please note however that aerodynamic drag is proportional to the "square" of the speed and not the "cube" of speed, as mentioned at time stamp 9:15.
Cheers Mike thanks for the correction
You got me thinking...... I'm actually thinking about seeing a bike fitter. I have my 165 crank sitting in the bike shed.... I may just take it with me. Perhaps it failed the first time because I wasnt fitted right.
am i the only one that chuckles to myself when the VB music starts up ? lol
Far from it. And I'm not even Australian. Cheers, Mate!
I'm waiting for Cam-a-lam to crack out the old Wide World of Sports intro tune... XD
So what is your FTP watt change since the 165 mm cranks?
Also how has the rest of your power curve changed?
Went from 175 to 170 and the difference was instant. I'm not even a weekend warrior but longer distances, steeper climbs and general comfort all improved. Definitely don't need to get out of the saddle so much now as everything is more manageable but for a roadie that might no be so good in a sprint situation. Even for a race oriented rider comfort must play a part in energy saving? Note to self "Always watch until the end before commenting so your comment doesn't look like you just repeated what was in the video and make yourself look like a dick" 😂😂
I’ve really enjoyed these bike fitting videos with Neil, learned so much.
Enjoy the slam!
Nice one Rob, thanks for sharing. Cheers, Cam
Cam, you have done several bike fittings with Neil and they have been very interesting and informational. I wonder if you have any power meter data related to power, heart rate, cadence, peak power and average power doing a either time trial or a road race so we could quantify measurable differences resulting from bike fitment....
Not at this stage, haven't been fit enough
@@CamNicholls Here's the thing, all of these changes, while they make hypothetical sense, they don't really show how if affects the real world power and speed data. Regardless of your fitness, you should do something like a 20 minute power test or a short time trial to illustrate what the changes actually accomplish in these regards to those important numbers......
Great dude & advice, legs not quite equal are fairly common & aren't always fixed by just a wedge or insole my takeaway 🍺
I'll take a bike fit... since your doing on-site visits.
Great article that I’ve watch a few times now. Just had my bike fit and what do you know hip impingement found and a leg length discrepancy, shim fitted and moving to 165s.....
Curious if anyone had the opposite effect with lateral cleat position and shorter cranks? I just switched from 175 to 165 and when I first rode I got a ton of pain in my right knee (pes ansurinus), which was super strange because normally it was my left the last 6 months, never once had right knee pain. I then tried moving my seat forward (to use less hamstring for the pes related pain) and cleats in so my feet would move outwards (wider q factor). My theory behind this is that if you look at where your foot was connected to a 175 crank, relative to the bottom bracket, and then you shorten that 10mm, to keep your foot in the same spot laterally, you would have to go a touch wider. Does this make sense or am I out in left field?
l find all these changes quite interesting please let us know asap how it turns out . l recall starting out on 170s then 172s and 175s on my other bikes . The 175s use a 46T chainrings x1 ,one on my old road bike one on my MTB with biopace ring !! l spin more on the 172s on the carbon trek my fastest bike with SPDs too which really helps with sprinting and my first 50+km hr !! BUT 47km hr on the other two bikes is not slow either at a lower cadence . PS l put my old road wheels onto my MTB making a city hybrid out of it , l like it for coffee /shopping runs :) l think a light weight ,compact ,high end cromo frame with 28+mm tires would make a great all round road bike :)
I am 5’ 5 1/2 65 year old man and been using 170 mm crank set for ten years now but I feel comfortable with that size but when I watched this video I m considering to switch to 165 mm or 160.5. I don’t know if I should I wish you can give me your advice if I should go to the shorter cranks! Thank you!
I have the same quarq Dfour DUB powermeter and crankset. I switched from 172,5 to 167,5 after watching this! Today was my first on it and all ready loving it! But there are also a lot off small things that I have to get used to. But I was wondering did you change the settings off your quarq from changing the crank length from 172,5 to 165? Because I know I did on the older models from quarq. Please let me know.
Gerrie
Wow, I haven't seen a phone booth in years, are they common where you are at?
Was wondering about Cam's fireplace, does it ever get used where he is?
haha,, Never
three in the surrounding area.
Great explanation of changes from swapping to 165mm cranks, Cam can you tell us what physical or other actual differences you feel while riding the bike and if you think it would be worthwhile for a more social/weekend warrior as oppossed to race orientated rider. Cheers.
Need a bit more time on time David, but that will come in the next few weeks.
Very interesting. I'm about to go for my first bike fit, and I'm already mystified by how a Size L Defy Advanced 2 still makes me feel like I could do with it being a tad more compact in size (despite me being 190). Perhaps this could be part of it - short of getting a shorter stem. Thank you for the excellent content, Cam! Greetings from Moscow.
Cheers Danny, hope the fit works out for you 👍
Interesting, I have just recently changed to 170mm Cranks from 172.5 and I feel better on the bike.
Great insights, thanks!
You got new wheels, gotta make a video about them
Nah they're old ones.
Can someone explain to me what happened in the little vignette with the phone booth at the beginning? I don't speak Australian, and I might have missed something crucial in a previous episode.
Just mucking around Bill. For a bit of a laugh. That is what the phone booth is for
@@CamNicholls OK, thank you!! Also, Neil is great! Love the vids with him.
Cam, as to the hip impingement, i wonder if, as you get older the worse it gets. It may not have been as obvious when you were younger. I know that I have found that I have become alot less flexible the older I get. As you get older (from mid 30's onwards ) stretching for flexibility becomes more and more important.
Interesting thought Bruce, have not thought of that scenario! Quite possibly. Cam
A question regarding shims. What if instead of using a shim on the shorter leg, is it possible to just use a thicker pedal?
let say for flat pedals, you use a thicker one on the shorter leg and a thinner pedal on the other. Would that have the same effect of using a shim?
really interested on this specific topic. Thanks!
Question for Neill, not myself. Sorry
Giant tcr sl or s works sl 6 which one you think is better for climbing?🙏🏾
When you roll your pelvis forwards, doesn't that move your weight from your sit bones to the soft and sensitive area sometimes called the "taint"? Second, for those of us with hand numbness (me for example) wouldn't rolling forward increase the load on the hands? (because the cm of the torso shifts farther from the hops, causing a higher moment to be overcome by the core muscles?
Btw, glad to hear that it all worked out.
My left leg movement same as your moving in and out while pedalling
Thanks for sharing, hopefully you can figure it out
From the front view your left leg and knee seems to be shifting it's line as you pedal through ... kinda like a smooth wobbly mission.
Indeed, this is due to Cam's right hip drop that we noted (pushes the left knee away from the centreline of the bike). We resolved this by making the changes mentioned in the video, that footage shows how much it was affecting him!
I have pain on my right knee because of over pronation, do you think shorter cranks will be an effective solution to spare some movement on my knees, thus preventing some pain?
What is the product holding your bike up while your riding indoors
Hi Cam
Understand this is simplistic factor, but out of interest, what sort of height and kgs are you? And are you generally considered to have have a longer torso or legs? Thanks for the great videos. Just got some of those inner soles to help foot pain, along with pushing cleats back a few mm. Cheers Cam (me).
I was going to ask the same, how tall are you Cam N?
Any numbness problems turning up due to more pelvic rotation?
Not at this stage mate
I have noticed a dull ache in my left vmo as a result of the fitting adjustment, can you ask Neil if this is usual??
I’ll see what I can do, won’t be having another round with him now until next year I think
Cam Nicholls really appreciate it....update is that the ache has subsided so maybe it was just my old bones complaining.
The fitter seems to be advocating cutting the steerer tube to an unsafe length. The steerer tube should extend at least 5 mm above the top of the stem so that the stem is not clamping the end of the steerer tube. I'll try to do a video on the topic today.
He actually summaries saying I should leave it
Even a 2mm proud stem will be enough to preload the bearings properly, as long as the top cap is pulling onto the stem and not the steerer tube you're all good
@@neillstanbury4557 The issue is clamping a tube, especially a carbon fiber tube, on its end is a *bad* idea.
@@CamNicholls Yes, he advocates leaving it, but for the wrong reason. He seems to be totally unaware that there is a safety issue involved with clamping carbon fiber steerer tubes at their end.
is your compression plug long enough to go until the buttom bolt of the stem ?
That settles it. From now on, I’m carrying a spare Neil in my saddle back.
Saddle bag, that is. Don’t you just hate predictive sex, I mean text!
Crank length is one of the least "adjustable" dimensions on a bike, and often overlooked even in a proper fit. I had a bad knee injury that has now limited its range of motion. I ride 140mm cranks with the cleat near my heel and have one set that is 110mm. Those I can ride with both cleats in normal position. Huge thanks to Mark at www.bikesmithdesign.com for enabling these crazy crank lengths.
Not sure what the chimney issue is. Personally, I wonder if the length of the chimney could be proportional to the amount you’re smoking your competition!
The main issue for me is that it can lead to a damaged carbon steerer tube. Check lueschers video about that. Depends on the bike and length tough. A ridiculous high chimney is also not very pleasing to the eye.
It's a elitist road bike style issue when kept in reasonable length.
BB axle stays in the same place so why put saddle back?
Unlocked my hip rotation
I understand that the shorter cranks reduce the range of motion through the pedal stroke and that would be beneficial if you have some hip impingement, but putting the saddle back and lowering the handlebars will reduce the angle between your torso and thigh. Maybe I'm missing something? Genuinely interested mate, not trying to wind you up.
Please please please help me, I need major help I being having some really bad pain in the left lower back after about a hour of right, and not having someone amazing as your friend Available to fit me as he does what could he tell me to try to change to see if I can stop that. Does he has a Facebook or some way we can chat please help me.
Check the description for a link to Neill’s website.
So you lowered your bars, panicked, spoke to Neil. Rode for a few days, Neil came back to your on his day off, got dry jumped by your dog.
He lowered your bars further, undid 60% of the original fit, and decided you are a rare case (awkward), overweight (but flexible) and reduced your Q factor by 5mm.
Ffs man Neil must dread seeing your number come up, which is probably why you seem to call him from pay phones. 🤣🤣🤣
Great video Cam, your videosare a highlight of my week, thank you for the effort and content you provide. Lovely home BTW.👍
Haha haha! Great summary mate. Thanks for the support as always too
All part of the fun, people's positions always change when you alter their crank length, this was fairly standard except for the Q-factor change, I wasn't expecting that one so much!
Hi I'm also 178cm height, I have like 3 different fit , my actual saddle height its 76cm but also got 76.5cm and 75cm from the others Fitters , 52cm /52.5cm Reach 8cm Drop used to have 12cm ( to much aggressive for my lower back) I'm curious about ur Saddle Height. Nice Channel and Content, Take Care from Puerto Rico.
It is not all that simple. If you are fairly flexible you can handle many position on the bike for short or long time. Sort time is 1.5 hours.
I keep my stem 120-130mm for handling reason. It is better for bad descender like me. For flat ride I can go shorter reach and shorter stem.
My height is 183 cm, inseam 90 cm, longer lower leg and long arms, short torso. So, not ideal for bike fit.
For long ride I prefer 97cm saddle height from pedals, saddle nose 7 cm behind BB, 61 cm reach and 17 cm drop. My crank choice is 170mm but I experimenting with 165. My knee sometime kick my ribs but it is not bad. Saddle tilt is 4-5 degrees. I can ride like that all day but sprinting or chasing PB climb is not option. It is for long sustain effort. For steep climb I need to go forward to saddle tip. It is for lower back.
For short ride, PB climb or crit races my setup will be different. saddle height from pedals 98 cm, saddle nose 3 cm behind BB, 54 cm reach and 12-14 cm drop. Stem can be shorter. No saddle tilt. My crank choice is 175mm. In that position it is impossible for me to be completely aero, but I have large torque on pedals. Sprinting is much easier. But after 1.5 hour my hands hurts me in many different ways. That setup is TT setup for me. I can put tri bars and enjoy that kind of ride.
That is 2 completely different position on bike and there are pros and cons. I'm not bike fitter or pro cyclist. I'm 48 years old with 35 years on road bike, lots of medical issues with my larger joints. Every wrong movement hurts like hell and after that 7 days in bed is guarantied.
I know that my position is very aggressive and that is good for me. In my opinion everybody can go aero and low with proper bike fit. But, bike fitters rarely do that. After bike fit you can put shopping bag on your handlebars and go shopping. That is only purpose of bike fit.
You need to learn that is 10 position on handlebars and 3 position on saddle. Changing that on ride is crucial. Different position for different terrain and situation.
Send him over to Yorkshire
Your thumbnail makes the bike look undersized. Is it so you can get into a more aggressive position with taller seats relative to the stem?
Nope it’s just the right top tube for me 54
frak me - using an actual payphone. thought they had long since disappeared! hahaha
I’m sure I missed something along the way, but what happened to that cool BMC that you showed a while ago that looked like Lamborghini made it?
The timemachine road? Wasn't that just for a review period?
Yes, just for 2 weeks i had that. Had to hand it back to Advanced Traders. Aussie distributor.
Cam Nicholls oh thank goodness. I thought that I had imagined it, then the reality was much rounder. Looking back though I see that it was Ferrari-like, not Lamborghini-like.
Question: I have a same rim break SLR01 bike as yours and I found that my rare break gives me a sponge feeling while I try to break, and also the break cable tend to stuck inside the housing while I turn the handlebars towards the left. Do you have the the same break problem? Is there anything I could do to solve this?
Hi Cam, if I may ask, just to compare to myself, what is your height, inseam on your legs and what size bike do you ride?
It seems like a huge change to make from 172.5 to 165mm?
Cheers
Don’t know my inseam off cuff. I am 178cm and run 54 cm top tube
bike fitters. perfect bro science summarised as 'fake it until you make it'
such a good video. thanks
Cheers Rex
Surely the seat getting pushed back, negates any "open" angle you achieved from 165mm cranks?
Would using the 172.5mm cranks with a longer stem and a forward seat achieve the same thing?
You still have the habit of "re-seating" highlighted in your challenging 1 hour ftp test on the indoor trainer outdoors. A habit rather than bike comfort thing?
GCN did a study on shorter cranks. Max watts decreased by 100 watts while all other measurements stayed within 1/3% [slight reduction with shorter cranks [3% is a big deal in my book]. There's a bike fitter on U tube that proved seat position affects hip impingement more than crank length or seat height [so, can't remember fitter's name].
Apparently its the effect of no wind hitting your chest. Sliding forward, in the saddle indoors. But could be a bad habit too.
@@CamNicholls it's something I've not really noticed in other youtubers indoors. But we are all different.
Found it. Peak Torque on U tube. Minute 2:58 screen shot - 4. Effective seat tube angle has larger influence on hip angle than crank length. Peak torque is an engineer, not bio-mechanical engineer [bike fitter].
8:17 this part is so funny XD
Shouldn't the stem be shortened too?
Your legs seem to work at a smaller angle, so raising your seat doesn't seem a good idea unless you do do some pretty good stretching of your backside leg muscles or your hips will continue de swing a lot with the associated unnecessary disc pressure.
Could go out in the long term I’ve been told
@@CamNicholls The body is a fantastic machine and it will adapt which doesn't mean that is working well. In the previous comment I forgot to tell you that your knees also seem too open in relation to your feet.
A static setup alone is not a good idea in my opinion but it can be a starting point. I've seen a lot of videos about people talking about bike-body setup, the majority of times they are pushing their service or their merchandize or just parroting the same old ideas, even in pro cycling. I don't claim to be right I'm just talking about my experience and my observations.
Ride with someone and ask them to watch your feet, hips and spine from the back and then your hands/arms and spine from
the side.
Starting from the lowest point of contact and the power transmission device, the feet; stand barefoot in the floor with your ankles touching - having something with a square pattern underneath like a A2 size hobby cutting board is great, jump enough to lift (ca. 10cm) off the floor and land on the ball of the feet which are the contact point with the pedals.
Observe how they land, parallel, diverging, converging, repeat 10x, 15x until you have a distance and angle more or less defined. This will help you devise your "stance width" and the fore or aft position in the pedals, if you can do this with something of the width of your saddle between your legs the better.
The tilting of the hips is solved in the majority of the cases by lowering the saddle a bit (5mm each time) until it stops
rocking this will also eliminate the rocking of the spine and as a bonus you get two steady anchor points to put the power down and less fatigue.
The spine is in the majority of the situations our shock absorber, a straight spine will have less ability to flex and the spine functions better bending forward than backward.
As a basis for achieving better body response I'd point Yoga as a very good way of acquiring more elasticity and
flexibility as well as walking barefoot which will help you strengthen your neurological and muscular systems from your feet up to your head. There are studies done with young riders that claim that with stretching you lose some responsiveness, but since the majority of us aren't professional riders, I'd rather have the ability to keep riding longer with less injuries. Unfortunately won't keep you from eventually falling ;).
Will you go for a longer stem in the future for becoming even more aero?
Neill said it’s not needed at this stage. But maybe if I improve flexibility I could
@@CamNicholls 😉
@@CamNicholls Hi Cam and Neill, Great video, super content, thanks!
I am also a former (and actual) rower. Was rowing always to the right. So my right shoulder is lower, and a recent bikefit revealed that my hip is turning to the right. Having heavy upper body and neck pain also; with only 4cm of bar drop. Thinking to get a shorter bike 54->53cm top tube and changing to 165mm cranks from 172,5 (I am 172cm tall with s 79cm inseam). The maximum bar stack would be 1cm lower which would result in 2cm more bar drop by raising the saddle a bit. Do you think that is okay? Do you have less neck ache since the crank change with the slammed stem? Your answear would be very much appretiated ; -)
Daniel
Is there anyone in the US that has this level of fitting skills?
Yes. Eddie Holsopple and James Newsom of Arlington and Fort Worth respectively.
bill cearley Thank you! They are both far from me, but I'm willing to travel for talent.
I can also recommend Colby Pearce and Jerry Gerlich over your side of the pond Jay, both are very good at what they do!
Neill Stanbury Fantastic! Do you know of any good books or other materials that can teach the basics of bike fit? I'd like to at least get it semi-dialed in here at home.
For short arses like me (160cm) 165mm cranks is pretty much as small as I can get. Lol
Hola Cam , what training alloy wheels are you running on your beautiful BMC and are clinchers or tubeless ??
Cheers
Clinchers. Some type of generic alloy DT Swiss wheel.
What watch is that he's got? Looks nice
TheOracle I agree, great looking watch! If I’m not mistaken it’s a Tissot.
www.tissotwatches.com/en-en/shop/tissot-prc-200-quartz-chronograph-21.html
Mate your left knee from the front view is still tracking off your center line at the top of the stroke quite noticeably compared to your right. Is there anything you can do about that????
That is 10 X better than it was!
@@CamNicholls I am glad you are getting it better, I also used to have my left knee doing that and it would give me some not so nice ankle issues. I hope you feel the improvements and thanks for the videos mate. I enjoy your content
Cam Nicholls would be worse without a shim
Pete, that footage was from before we sorted out the right hip drop I believe. It was nowhere near that nasty after we'd made all the changes.
Great/fun video! Beautiful house!
Is there a fitter this good in the New York City area?
No idea Marty, good luck
Does Neil also make house calls to the Netherlands without getting paid? ;)
Cam you're so funny bro with the slammed stem Choo Choo train 🚂 😂 I can relate though, I finally took out the last spacer and fully slammed my stem 2 weeks ago. 😅👍
Hi Cam, whats Neils thoughts on changing your saddle to a brand that keeps you in the one position such as a Selle SMP Drakon or equivalent. I acknowledge no two cyclists are the same in their position. At 08:32 & 08:45 in your video you either have burning balls or your doing what I constantly did, keep shifting along the seat trying to find that sweet spot on the seat to get the most power out. The Selle SMP Drakon in my case solved my problem. Great vid as always.
How's the winter?
Not too bad here on the Sunny Coast!
That's great looking road bike! No top slanded top bar! No ugly disc brakes! No big fat tires! This new trend of road bikes looking like over sized female Mountain bikes is just offensive to the eye.
“Knee strike to the gut” 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Guilty as charged
yea i do that to and i am not even overweight well to the chest but still 77 kg 193 cm
I use my gut for extra rebound 😳😏🙈😎
My gut makes me more aero
Tell you what, after seeing this video for like 7time straight. I bought myself the 165mm cranks. Lozl
Nice one! Good luck
@@CamNicholls the results was remarkable ! Love it so much. Confident, and no more sore muscles.
How tall are you, how long are your legs?
179cm
I think your dog has a crush on Neill!
Haha
How tall are you?
I bought BMC ALR01 one two days ago (partly because of you(r) channel) and I have to adjust it because the first ride was not that good
Can take a while to get used to. I am 178cm and ride a 54 top tube
The things we do for love 😀
Simply the best bike fitter. But I couldn't find what is so laughable. ;-)
The chimney is back
@@CamNicholls Yeah, that's funny. But makes sense. When you're not too much in shape you are able to get one floor up. Otherwise you had to buy an endurance bike like me. 😅