Hey guys, I hope this video can help you out with some common issues. Check out the chapters if you’re looking for a specific fix, we cover a lot in this video!
If your fan runs all the time, is it a bad fan clutch? I know OEM is pricey, but eBay has $100 offbrands. I think they have electrically operated clutches that you might be able to manually control.. like turn off at interstate speeds when your ramming air down it already.
It isn't always engaged, but it is always spinning with some type of momentum. I've seen on other applications of this motor having an electronically engaged fan clutch like you are speaking of. As the motor spins the fan stays stationary, not entirely familiar with this system but this is what i mean by "always spinning"
undookify the exchangers using acid based coil cleaner, cover them with porch screen, and add ducting is my vote. If your coolant system is staying clean and full then there should be no problem.
Thanks for watching bud! The KDP is most prominent between 95-97 if my memory serves me well. After seeing my motor & donor motors kdp (99 & 00) it seems like they've pressed it in much better.
ok heres my take 5.9 if you are having trouble with heat, here is what i found on mine.. the transmishion was a rebuild buy some DUSH BAG IN LONG ILAND NY ... a DEALER. the transmission was not finding 1 bouncing all over the place torque converter was not even locking up. all an all my temp gage was like a tachomer longer story shorter.. i spent 5 grand in the transmishion New Billit torque 2 stage billit input and a bunch of other billit parts and a shift kit, and i put a DERAIL 1/2" cooler on the trany .. and the big kicker was when i put injectors in it 100 hp thats all i needed this truck is dilled in an when you hit the peddel O-Black Betty shits an gets. so your problem is probably not the engine its the transmishion or you have a leaking head gasket .. EXCELLENT VIDEO IM GETTing ready to do my crank seal that seal only go's in one way and there is a tool to install it at the correct depth and there is a crank sleve you can put on there if it dosent stop leaking .. O what music or band is that love it
Thanks for watching! That 5.9 is sure easy to overheat. Especially when hauling 20k+ lbs In bud! In the years since, the Tapper cover & front seal have started leaking again:( It’s good to know about the sleeve for the front crank, but the tappet I would not go OEM again. Transmission has been swapped to an Eaton 5 speed since!
if it started to leak again then you may need the sleave kit on the crank shaft. there is a tool you realy need to use to install the seal and the crank sleve the sleave and seal have to come to gather or you may be putting the wrong size seal in on the sleave NAPA sells the kit i all ways use permatex adheseve it seems to bond better .. some people prefer OEM grade
Great Video ! I know I don't ever want to attempt what your doing. My 7.3 diesel R&R was my limit. And I"ll never ever do that again. Good job !!
Thanks David! And I definitely don’t wanna be doing this again either haha
New subscriber and new follower on TikTok
So cool! Thanks for watching man!
@@parishskoolie your welcome
Man these vids are great.
Wow! Thank you so much for saying so. It’s nice to hear our efforts are worth it 🙂
Hey guys, I hope this video can help you out with some common issues. Check out the chapters if you’re looking for a specific fix, we cover a lot in this video!
Is the bus wearing Mardi Gras beads?? 🤣💝
She is! Haha 😆
@@parishskoolie 🤣😂
If your fan runs all the time, is it a bad fan clutch? I know OEM is pricey, but eBay has $100 offbrands. I think they have electrically operated clutches that you might be able to manually control.. like turn off at interstate speeds when your ramming air down it already.
It isn't always engaged, but it is always spinning with some type of momentum. I've seen on other applications of this motor having an electronically engaged fan clutch like you are speaking of. As the motor spins the fan stays stationary, not entirely familiar with this system but this is what i mean by "always spinning"
undookify the exchangers using acid based coil cleaner, cover them with porch screen, and add ducting is my vote. If your coolant system is staying clean and full then there should be no problem.
If you can’t duct it, F*k it 😃
Absolutely great video for the Cummins 5.9/24v. I too have the same engine. Did the KDP issue affect 2002 years?
Thanks for watching bud!
The KDP is most prominent between 95-97 if my memory serves me well. After seeing my motor & donor motors kdp (99 & 00) it seems like they've pressed it in much better.
ok heres my take 5.9 if you are having trouble with heat, here is what i found on mine.. the transmishion was a rebuild buy some DUSH BAG IN LONG ILAND NY ... a DEALER. the transmission was not finding 1 bouncing all over the place torque converter was not even locking up. all an all my temp gage was like a tachomer longer story shorter.. i spent 5 grand in the transmishion New Billit torque 2 stage billit input and a bunch of other billit parts and a shift kit, and i put a DERAIL 1/2" cooler on the trany .. and the big kicker was when i put injectors in it 100 hp thats all i needed this truck is dilled in an when you hit the peddel O-Black Betty shits an gets. so your problem is probably not the engine its the transmishion or you have a leaking head gasket .. EXCELLENT VIDEO IM GETTing ready to do my crank seal that seal only go's in one way and there is a tool to install it at the correct depth and there is a crank sleve you can put on there if it dosent stop leaking .. O what music or band is that love it
Thanks for watching! That 5.9 is sure easy to overheat. Especially when hauling 20k+ lbs
In bud!
In the years since, the Tapper cover & front seal have started leaking again:(
It’s good to know about the sleeve for the front crank, but the tappet I would not go OEM again.
Transmission has been swapped to an Eaton 5 speed since!
if it started to leak again then you may need the sleave kit on the crank shaft. there is a tool you realy need to use to install the seal and the crank sleve the sleave and seal have to come to gather or you may be putting the wrong size seal in on the sleave NAPA sells the kit i all ways use permatex adheseve it seems to bond better .. some people prefer OEM grade
This is for a 12 or 24
The motor in this video is a 24v but translates to the 12v as well. The block is identical with most of the same seal & gasket leaks.
That gasket 🤢
Better than a dry rotten one 😂