If you have one of these monitors where the antireflective coating is damaged (rather than scratches that have penetrated the film that covers the glass screen, as on my monitor) you can just clean this off. Use some cleaner such as Flash Bathroom cleaner (the one that is good for limescale removal) and a micro fibre cloth. You can be quite vigorous. Use Q-tips / Cotton buds for the corners. Then final clean down with water. I have done this on another monitor and it works well.
It's awesome that this is possible. I have a same monitor with a small area where the film is coming up, I believe it's lost its stickiness as it's not really scratched, but there's a lightened section (and applying any pressure is only causing it to come up further). It's not bad enough to peel and replace the film, but it's great to see your process for doing this as I'll certainly do it myself when necessary. I performed many repairs on my monitor (I have the Panasonic BT-H1700 which is virtually the same monitor as yours) and I'm amazed at how well it still works given that the hour counter is maxed out at 65535 hours!
Good luck if you give this ago (sounds like you are used to monitors but observe the precautions shown in part 1). Often monitors can go on and on, only having to replace the few caps that work hard. As long as there are no screen burns you're OK (monitors used in edit suites were bad for screen burn with on-screen timecode).
@@RetroWorkshop Indeed! No screen burn -- just a weakened green electron gun causing negative streaking against bright green details, which was remedied via CRT rejuvenation! I'm definitely lucky that there was no screen burn on such an aged tube. There are a couple small geometry and purity defects with the monitor still, but it's more than usable for 240p/480i and 480p content. I also replaced almost all the caps when I first got it, as many of them were bulging and looked to be in quite bad shape!
Cool, would have never thought of an ND film to replace the original, I thought I'd like brighter image (ok in a cave but you're right, grey-ish in regular lighting conditions). Also, great production quality, you deserve more subs!
Awesome video ! I was looking for a way to reduce the eye strain that I get from an Orion consumer CRT tube that I used to replace a broken arcade monitor. These consumer CRT tubes seem to have no anti glare film at all and for that reason I do not think they are suitable to swap in an arcade cabinet unmodified. That s why I would like to try adding the ND film in your video to the Orion tube. Do you think it would reduce the radiation and eye strain? Thanks, regards from Romania
Adding ND may reduce eye strain (fatigue) but the main reason I use it here is to help set the black level to black (rather than grey). If your blacks are black on your Orion TV, you may just reduce contrast to try to limit eye strain.
Great solution and nice job! I also have a DT-V1710CG with anti-glare film been scratched. I'd love to follow your solution to repace it with a new one. Could you please tell me the dimension of the original film, i.e. width and height? So I can buy some pre-cut ones. Thanks!
Great video! Well produced and narrated. Did you notice any change in color with the new film? I have a scratch on my NEC Diamondpro monitor, and I'm afraid if I change the anti-glare coating it might require some major recalibration if the replacement doesn't have the same color characteristics.
Yes you are right - I see they do a NEU-35 which has 43% visible light transmission. This may be suitable. The Purlfrost films are higher quality and go on easier without wrinkles than the other film I tried.
I have a Toshiba DVD/VHS Combo Unit that has component so I’m really trying to save it. Film is all scratched up. Have you found any similar products in the US? Thank you!
Bit unlikely a domestic tv combo has film but anything is possible! It is wi Dow film so suppliers for window tint for buildings. Also car window tint, but that seems to be thinner and more prone to tinkles.
It doesn't offer the protection or the anti-static properties of the original film. I'm looking for the same for my Sony FW900 CRT monitor. In the end, just use the monitor without any external light that would reflect off the screen and the blacks look just as good. The only downside is still not having any anti-static protection.
@retroworkshop Very good video! I have exactly the same issue. Found a DT-V1910CG but the seller damaged the coating when he tried to clean it before the sale… I like the tint you have ended up with. Looks pretty good to Me. Could You please tell Me which exactly tint You used it. I guess the original coating of the DT-Vs is always the same, so whatever tint you used should be good for Mine too. At least that’s my guess :) Also do You have by any chance the dimensions (is yours a 19“?) I would like to get pre cut tints
Hello, I have a 17 inch model. In this video I fitted 50pc light smoke tint from window-tint.co.uk/ Since I made this video, I have replaced film on other monitors and instead used the "carbon" variant from this same site. This is a close match and doesn't have the slightly off white light transfer (ever so slightly yellow). This film is much thinner and easy to damage. But then the original film is easy enough to damage.
This process can be very fiddly. Some monitors you get it right first time, others it takes five goes to get it right without little air bubbles or imperfections. Buy lots of extra film! :)
Hi! I have DT 1710 and DT 1700. The first one works fine, but the second one doesn't want to work with RGB signals. I tried all the settings, the expansion boards were transferred from one to another. Not one console- Neo Geo AES- Sega- Pc Engine Duo Rx- does not show. In the menu A-C-E goes distorted in the combo strip it, and in B-D-F the black screen is out of range of the inscription -the sound is coming.
Did you change between sync on Green (or Y) and external syncs? You need to go into the SETUP MENU and change the sync from INT (internal) to EXT (external). To enter this menu you need to press the VOL - and DOWN buttons together. My computers output a composite sync signal (H and V sync combined) and this is connected to the H Sync connector on the monitor. Good luck.
@@RetroWorkshop Thanks! I figured out that 1700 does not have such a menu option, only 1710. I had to put a step-down resistor, 5 V on synchronization for 1700 turned out to be a lot
Hello, nice video congratulations. I have the same model without antiglare and I solved it by buying an antiglare glass for monitors as they used to put in the 90s. Unfortunately there are scratches on the glass of the jvc monitor. Is there any way to eliminate them?
Conventional wisdom suggests that you can't get rid of scratches on the glass. I also have a Sony VGA monitor that I have somehow managed to scratch. They are not deep scratches and I am going to try to remove them but it may well go badly. Look out for a video in the future.
If you have one of these monitors where the antireflective coating is damaged (rather than scratches that have penetrated the film that covers the glass screen, as on my monitor) you can just clean this off. Use some cleaner such as Flash Bathroom cleaner (the one that is good for limescale removal) and a micro fibre cloth. You can be quite vigorous. Use Q-tips / Cotton buds for the corners. Then final clean down with water. I have done this on another monitor and it works well.
Excellent work.
Thanks for the video! Picked up a pretty worn cpd-200sf so I'll give this a shot
It's awesome that this is possible. I have a same monitor with a small area where the film is coming up, I believe it's lost its stickiness as it's not really scratched, but there's a lightened section (and applying any pressure is only causing it to come up further). It's not bad enough to peel and replace the film, but it's great to see your process for doing this as I'll certainly do it myself when necessary. I performed many repairs on my monitor (I have the Panasonic BT-H1700 which is virtually the same monitor as yours) and I'm amazed at how well it still works given that the hour counter is maxed out at 65535 hours!
Good luck if you give this ago (sounds like you are used to monitors but observe the precautions shown in part 1). Often monitors can go on and on, only having to replace the few caps that work hard. As long as there are no screen burns you're OK (monitors used in edit suites were bad for screen burn with on-screen timecode).
@@RetroWorkshop Indeed! No screen burn -- just a weakened green electron gun causing negative streaking against bright green details, which was remedied via CRT rejuvenation! I'm definitely lucky that there was no screen burn on such an aged tube. There are a couple small geometry and purity defects with the monitor still, but it's more than usable for 240p/480i and 480p content. I also replaced almost all the caps when I first got it, as many of them were bulging and looked to be in quite bad shape!
This could conceivably be used to improve the black levels on any CRT set. Amazing!
Stellar effort. Too bad you don't have a second monitor to compare the results with the original film. definitely better than before though
That was a very satisfying conclusion.
That's a nice idea and very informative. Might try this on one of my tubes, too.
Cool, would have never thought of an ND film to replace the original, I thought I'd like brighter image (ok in a cave but you're right, grey-ish in regular lighting conditions). Also, great production quality, you deserve more subs!
Awesome video ! I was looking for a way to reduce the eye strain that I get from an Orion consumer CRT tube that I used to replace a broken arcade monitor. These consumer CRT tubes seem to have no anti glare film at all and for that reason I do not think they are suitable to swap in an arcade cabinet unmodified. That s why I would like to try adding the ND film in your video to the Orion tube. Do you think it would reduce the radiation and eye strain? Thanks, regards from Romania
Adding ND may reduce eye strain (fatigue) but the main reason I use it here is to help set the black level to black (rather than grey). If your blacks are black on your Orion TV, you may just reduce contrast to try to limit eye strain.
Great job 👍
Great solution and nice job! I also have a DT-V1710CG with anti-glare film been scratched. I'd love to follow your solution to repace it with a new one. Could you please tell me the dimension of the original film, i.e. width and height? So I can buy some pre-cut ones. Thanks!
Love the videos man, keep ‘em coming!
thanks just picked up 34" widescreen trinitron and scratched film puting it into my car. not too bad but will change it if its a problem
Great video! Well produced and narrated.
Did you notice any change in color with the new film?
I have a scratch on my NEC Diamondpro monitor, and I'm afraid if I change the anti-glare coating it might require some major recalibration if the replacement doesn't have the same color characteristics.
No colour cast seen either the new film.
Anyone know if there are any alternatives to restore the anti-static properties of the original film aswell?
4:26 This is so relatable, I love it XD
It looks like Purlfrost stopped listing the NEU-50 light-tinted films, only the NEU-25 dark and NEU-35 medium ones are available now.
Yes you are right - I see they do a NEU-35 which has 43% visible light transmission. This may be suitable. The Purlfrost films are higher quality and go on easier without wrinkles than the other film I tried.
I have a Toshiba DVD/VHS Combo Unit that has component so I’m really trying to save it. Film is all scratched up. Have you found any similar products in the US? Thank you!
Bit unlikely a domestic tv combo has film but anything is possible! It is wi Dow film so suppliers for window tint for buildings. Also car window tint, but that seems to be thinner and more prone to tinkles.
It doesn't offer the protection or the anti-static properties of the original film. I'm looking for the same for my Sony FW900 CRT monitor. In the end, just use the monitor without any external light that would reflect off the screen and the blacks look just as good. The only downside is still not having any anti-static protection.
Without the film blacks are grey. The film is crucial to setting the black level unless you sit in a darkened room.
@retroworkshop
Very good video!
I have exactly the same issue.
Found a DT-V1910CG but the seller damaged the coating when he tried to clean it before the sale…
I like the tint you have ended up with. Looks pretty good to Me.
Could You please tell Me which exactly tint You used it.
I guess the original coating of the DT-Vs is always the same, so whatever tint you used should be good for Mine too.
At least that’s my guess :)
Also do You have by any chance the dimensions (is yours a 19“?)
I would like to get pre cut tints
Hello, I have a 17 inch model. In this video I fitted 50pc light smoke tint from window-tint.co.uk/ Since I made this video, I have replaced film on other monitors and instead used the "carbon" variant from this same site. This is a close match and doesn't have the slightly off white light transfer (ever so slightly yellow). This film is much thinner and easy to damage. But then the original film is easy enough to damage.
Thanks for your quick reply mate.
So you would recommend the carbon variant (also with 50% )?
Yes I compared them and the carbon is better (more neutral and matches the original better). Thanks, Dave.
This process can be very fiddly. Some monitors you get it right first time, others it takes five goes to get it right without little air bubbles or imperfections. Buy lots of extra film! :)
Thanks a lot. You are a great help!
Yeah as I know Myself, I will buy a lot of extra :D just to be safe
Hi! I have DT 1710 and DT 1700. The first one works fine, but the second one doesn't want to work with RGB signals. I tried all the settings, the expansion boards were transferred from one to another. Not one console- Neo Geo AES- Sega- Pc Engine Duo Rx- does not show. In the menu A-C-E goes distorted in the combo strip it, and in B-D-F the black screen is out of range of the inscription -the sound is coming.
Did you change between sync on Green (or Y) and external syncs? You need to go into the SETUP MENU and change the sync from INT (internal) to EXT (external). To enter this menu you need to press the VOL - and DOWN buttons together. My computers output a composite sync signal (H and V sync combined) and this is connected to the H Sync connector on the monitor. Good luck.
@@RetroWorkshop Thanks! I figured out that 1700 does not have such a menu option, only 1710. I had to put a step-down resistor, 5 V on synchronization for 1700 turned out to be a lot
Hello, nice video congratulations. I have the same model without antiglare and I solved it by buying an antiglare glass for monitors as they used to put in the 90s.
Unfortunately there are scratches on the glass of the jvc monitor. Is there any way to eliminate them?
Conventional wisdom suggests that you can't get rid of scratches on the glass. I also have a Sony VGA monitor that I have somehow managed to scratch. They are not deep scratches and I am going to try to remove them but it may well go badly. Look out for a video in the future.
@@RetroWorkshop Thank you. I will definitely stick with it, and hope you can fix it. :)
you have a very late production model (2008). I've contacted you regarding some ongoing research efforts on the DT-V monitors.
Very interesting. I will be in contact!
When next video?
There are three in the pipeline... But is a very long pipe ;) One should be on the way in a week or two as it filming is complete.