I just want to say thanks, respect (and sympathies) to Sara for standing endless hours in this cave while belaying...hope she had some good climbs there as well!
Once I was talking to a friend of mine about another route: "and after that rest the route is almost over, it is just 8b+ until the top." I lost a friend
This series is awesome! :) So happy to be able to follow the process. Im just going to throw out a wild wish for a future project - You and Adam working Bibliographie together 😁
Thanks for saying that the final 7b is easy compared to the route, but that in general it can be not so easy. It changes from the usual "yeah, then it's a simple 8b+ to the chain where you cannot fall unless you are a total looser" hahaha
This is more enjoyable than ANY of Mellow's A.D.D. cut up videos. When will everyone else learn that we (the viewers) learn a lot from watching the rests, and the clips. Never understood why people cut the clips out too. Thanks for the uncut version!
That's what I really like about Stefano, he is such a humble and down to earth person - no filmmaker, photographer, personal trainer, physiotherapist or whatever next to him, only him, the rock and Sara. Just pure climbing!
I love everything about this. Not just the hard climbing but the commentary and "rawness" of it. I love hearing about using a tripod to prop up the camera. The passion that comes through is really amazing because it's not all polished and perfectly put together.
I don't really have anything to say that the others already said. I just add this comment for the algorithm, because this epic send deserves more attention.
Looove this kind of video for climbing so much!!! Thanks Stefano i'm advanced beginner and with your way of filming and comment the route i get a real good impression of how the route is to climb... when i looked it my hands started sweating at one point :) nice work! Thanks for sharing!!!
Bellissimo! finalmente la salita completa con un commento sui movimenti senza filosofie inutili e mille tagli come tanti altri video di climbing. Non vedo l'ora di vederti provare silence!
Che pompa e che umiltà, credo diventerai il più forte tra qualche anno se continui così Tu e seb bouin avete davvero fatto un salto di livello pazzesco, penso abbiate un sacco di pagine da scrivere in futuro
Really enjoyed the personal documentation :) Keep up the amazing content, captivating every single one of them! Invite Magnus over for some home wall fun videos someday perhaps :D
It's interesting to see how long you rest - I feel like the only way I can do my hardest routes is when I rest for at least 75% of the time. I always thought it was because I was too weak or because my stamina was not enough but maybe not after seeing someone doing a 9a+/b and resting most of the time.
Thank You again Stefano ! it is coll to see you climbing. Samtimes post also a video in which Sara climbs. Se posso chiedere , ma quando filmi con il telefono poi come converti il video in modo che il formato sia a schermo pieno su youtube ? nel senso che programa usi ? che formato video usi e come imposti le dimensioni ? Grazie (ps stai diventando anche uno youtuber pro ah ah ah 9b di youtube content creator !)
ENG: Simply stunning video, it's fantastic to be able to see the whole sending process.On the other hand, I would like to be able to analyze in more detail aspects such as the time you use in each grip, how much time you spend at rest and how much time you climb hard parts and easy parts, so I would like to know if you give me permission to do it with your videos, obviously, I will put all references to you and the origin of the videos. ESP: Video sencillamente impresionante, es fantástico poder ver todo el proceso del encadenamiento. Por otra parte, me gustaría poder analizar en más detalle aspectos como por ejemplo el tiempo que utilizas en cada agarre, cuanto tiempo pasas en los reposos y cuanto tiempo escalas, por lo que me gustaría saber si me das permiso para hacerlo con tus videos, obviamente pondré todas las referencias a tí y la procedencia de los videos.
BRAVISSIMO... e sono curioso di vedere questo cambio corda per l'intera salita di "Change"... Sicuramente avrai adottato tutti i sistemi per garantire sia la massima sicurezza e sia per evitare di far cadere le due corde dalla sosta anche perchè, su quel tipo di via estrema, Adam Ondra a parte chi mai al mondo potrebbe riportatela su...??? :-) Veri complimenti...
@@maurodibenedetto2706 La prima parte di CHANGE, quindi fino alla prima catena, è lunga circa 20 metri e costruire un betastick con tale misura la vedo mooolto dura... :-))
@@lorenzosignorini3288 Around the time point you’ve mentioned he comes to a pre-placed alpine (long) quick draw. He clips it from quite far down. Then he climbs on and when he gets past it adds a normal (short) quick draw to the very same bolt. He does this presumably because he’s scared (despite being a pro) because seeing a long quick draw dangling under you makes you think it’s going to increase the fall distance by a huge amount. However, when you are already that far up the half meter more or less from an alpine quick draw really doesn’t matter.
Do you really fear that sponsors, media or the climbing community won't believe your ascent or did you do the smartphone filming in order to make sure have video material?
I think everybody believes a climber when he says he sent a route, but to make sure nobody is cheating would be appreciated if every professional climber just put his phone recording the ascent, just in case, it's quite easy to film nowadays.
@@steghiso that's true. Usually you just trust them to tell the truth and that should be enough. I hope that will never change and the amount of people who cheat stays insignificantly low. Keep it up, Stefano. You're very inspiring us a lot :)
Stefano, why not approach this differently? Why not practice practice practice the second pitch before you try to redpoint the first pitch, so that once you redpoint the first pitch, you are ready to try for the full pitch?
Why should he waste his precious time to practice the "easier" part only to discover that he might not be able to do the crux in the first part? Remember that Adams beta did not work for him and it took him 17 days to make his beta work - so long in fact that he had no time left to do the whole route on this trip and he had to return a second time!
@@philclimbr8763 yes, that makes sense, and hadn't occurred to me. there's two ways to see it: focusing on completing the crux and then doing it can give confidence. maybe it's more a bouldering mentality: sticking the crux move is going to be rare. you want everything else dialed, so that when you actually do stick the crux move, you are ready to do the rest.
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [1/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vLGjxFL6U_I/mqdefault.jpg)
The close up on the boulder is amazing. Holy crap that swing.. the shoulders are flying!
Amazing vid Stefano!
Hey Mani, cool to see you here ahah
I just want to say thanks, respect (and sympathies) to Sara for standing endless hours in this cave while belaying...hope she had some good climbs there as well!
Hat off for the moment, when you are talking about 7a/7b grades.
For many people this grades are hard, thank you for respecting this!
Once I was talking to a friend of mine about another route: "and after that rest the route is almost over, it is just 8b+ until the top." I lost a friend
Amazing! Enjoying your commentary, it's so cool to understand more what's going through your mind the entire time. Nicely done!
That's how every video of sends should look like👍
This series is awesome! :) So happy to be able to follow the process. Im just going to throw out a wild wish for a future project - You and Adam working Bibliographie together 😁
That'd be so much fun! Really bringing the Avengers together.
The picture-in-picture was such a nice way to keep the continuity. So nice to see this truly uncut and with commentary.
you are a professional rester :P
I wish I could be even 10% as good at resting 🤣
Thanks for saying that the final 7b is easy compared to the route, but that in general it can be not so easy. It changes from the usual "yeah, then it's a simple 8b+ to the chain where you cannot fall unless you are a total looser" hahaha
Excellent! Keep them coming... You describe in so much detail I find myself watching you resting for a minute or more totally absorbed 😄
Thanks for sharing your thought process! It's a good reminder how "sending the route" might me more complicated than just having another go ground up
You make that look so easy! I'm amazed at your composure and calmness on such a tough climb!
This is more enjoyable than ANY of Mellow's A.D.D. cut up videos. When will everyone else learn that we (the viewers) learn a lot from watching the rests, and the clips. Never understood why people cut the clips out too. Thanks for the uncut version!
That's what I really like about Stefano, he is such a humble and down to earth person - no filmmaker, photographer, personal trainer, physiotherapist or whatever next to him, only him, the rock and Sara. Just pure climbing!
I love everything about this. Not just the hard climbing but the commentary and "rawness" of it. I love hearing about using a tripod to prop up the camera. The passion that comes through is really amazing because it's not all polished and perfectly put together.
Love the calm and zen like commentary.
Incredible series. I'm really enjoying the climbing and your commentary. It is an incredible feat of strength and skill. Thanks again for sharing!
Love the uncut version.
I hope you will really do a side by side comparison with Adams ascent of the 1.pitch. Keep this awesome videos coming man :)
Fantastic video! sets a standard for every climber for how to document and comment ascents
I really, really like your commentary. Grazie.
I don't really have anything to say that the others already said. I just add this comment for the algorithm, because this epic send deserves more attention.
Looove this kind of video for climbing so much!!! Thanks Stefano i'm advanced beginner and with your way of filming and comment the route i get a real good impression of how the route is to climb... when i looked it my hands started sweating at one point :) nice work! Thanks for sharing!!!
We love to see struggling people that we think that there aren't humans ... It's humanize you!
Very cool! Got to love uncut footy! Get it done!
Awesome, thank you very much! Absolutely impressive!
Grandissimo vezz, ascesa davvero elegante e pulita
Video Soling the route, a new level of documentary
great and usefull job, thanks for sharing!
Awesome video Stefano ! I love your channel ! Very inspiring in these times of lockdown !
He describes as well as he climbs!
mitico STE !!!!! sei una potenza!!!!
Tutta sta roba e dopo appena il secondo tiro da fare...! Impressionante.
Molto ben realizzato questo video comunque, bravo.
Bellissimo! finalmente la salita completa con un commento sui movimenti senza filosofie inutili e mille tagli come tanti altri video di climbing. Non vedo l'ora di vederti provare silence!
Che pompa e che umiltà, credo diventerai il più forte tra qualche anno se continui così
Tu e seb bouin avete davvero fatto un salto di livello pazzesco, penso abbiate un sacco di pagine da scrivere in futuro
Excelent video Stefano! keep doing this
very nice with the comments, impressive climb!
Looking forward to pitch 2 ♥️
very impressive to see you form a beta that adam didn't use but that worked so well for you!
12 min hands shaking + 3 min climbing ... epic
Altro bel video con commento! Grande Stefano ;-)
Very very good video! Well done!
Really enjoyed the personal documentation :) Keep up the amazing content, captivating every single one of them!
Invite Magnus over for some home wall fun videos someday perhaps :D
Congratulations man!!
More commentary videos please!
Great video.
Huge chalk bag.
Thank you and well done!
It's interesting to see how long you rest - I feel like the only way I can do my hardest routes is when I rest for at least 75% of the time. I always thought it was because I was too weak or because my stamina was not enough but maybe not after seeing someone doing a 9a+/b and resting most of the time.
Check out Eric Hörst analysis of Silence or Biographie for more info on that topic!
Thank you for another great video!!
amazing video! love the comments on it
Congratulations. 💪
Nice climbing mate 🤟
Sick!Did you train your resting skills specifically to gain ability to recover so well or does it comes to you naturally?
Awesome!
Nice and authentic content! Love it! The world need more of this real life stuff and less of the colour graded always sending onces
Thank You again Stefano ! it is coll to see you climbing. Samtimes post also a video in which Sara climbs. Se posso chiedere , ma quando filmi con il telefono poi come converti il video in modo che il formato sia a schermo pieno su youtube ? nel senso che programa usi ? che formato video usi e come imposti le dimensioni ? Grazie (ps stai diventando anche uno youtuber pro ah ah ah 9b di youtube content creator !)
awesome! very impressive - why did you not go on and try this time to see how far you would get?
Awesome! 😃
Best Video ever ! Also coutchpotatoes love to "climb" an u n c u t 9b + ! We love it !
ENG:
Simply stunning video, it's fantastic to be able to see the whole sending process.On the other hand, I would like to be able to analyze in more detail aspects such as the time you use in each grip, how much time you spend at rest and how much time you climb hard parts and easy parts, so I would like to know if you give me permission to do it with your videos, obviously, I will put all references to you and the origin of the videos.
ESP:
Video sencillamente impresionante, es fantástico poder ver todo el proceso del encadenamiento.
Por otra parte, me gustaría poder analizar en más detalle aspectos como por ejemplo el tiempo que utilizas en cada agarre, cuanto tiempo pasas en los reposos y cuanto tiempo escalas, por lo que me gustaría saber si me das permiso para hacerlo con tus videos, obviamente pondré todas las referencias a tí y la procedencia de los videos.
I'll probably do it myself in the next videos! thanks
@@steghiso Thanks for answering. I'm sure the results will be interesting ;)
BRAVISSIMO... e sono curioso di vedere questo cambio corda per l'intera salita di "Change"...
Sicuramente avrai adottato tutti i sistemi per garantire sia la massima sicurezza e sia per evitare di far cadere le due corde dalla sosta anche perchè, su quel tipo di via estrema, Adam Ondra a parte chi mai al mondo potrebbe riportatela su...??? :-)
Veri complimenti...
Ad esempio chiunque sia in grado di usare un betastick! Non che sia facilissimo ma neanche impossibile.
@@maurodibenedetto2706 La prima parte di CHANGE, quindi fino alla prima catena, è lunga circa 20 metri e costruire un betastick con tale misura la vedo mooolto dura... :-))
@@angelovitiello5646Lo si usa da rinvio a rinvio senza nessun problema.
@@maurodibenedetto2706 Si, si già lo sapevo...
Finally, a climbing video with 673:0 up:down votes. :-)
11:56 sometimes, pros do that too
You mean that he changed the alpine quickdraw for a normal one despite it not mattering at all?
@@Mike-oz4cv I've just come back to this video and try to understand what me from a year ago meant. I have no clue. Can someone help me?
@@lorenzosignorini3288 Around the time point you’ve mentioned he comes to a pre-placed alpine (long) quick draw. He clips it from quite far down. Then he climbs on and when he gets past it adds a normal (short) quick draw to the very same bolt.
He does this presumably because he’s scared (despite being a pro) because seeing a long quick draw dangling under you makes you think it’s going to increase the fall distance by a huge amount. However, when you are already that far up the half meter more or less from an alpine quick draw really doesn’t matter.
Crack!
🤩🤩🤩
Do you really fear that sponsors, media or the climbing community won't believe your ascent or did you do the smartphone filming in order to make sure have video material?
I think everybody believes a climber when he says he sent a route, but to make sure nobody is cheating would be appreciated if every professional climber just put his phone recording the ascent, just in case, it's quite easy to film nowadays.
@@steghiso that's true. Usually you just trust them to tell the truth and that should be enough. I hope that will never change and the amount of people who cheat stays insignificantly low. Keep it up, Stefano. You're very inspiring us a lot :)
Stefano, why not approach this differently? Why not practice practice practice the second pitch before you try to redpoint the first pitch, so that once you redpoint the first pitch, you are ready to try for the full pitch?
Why should he waste his precious time to practice the "easier" part only to discover that he might not be able to do the crux in the first part? Remember that Adams beta did not work for him and it took him 17 days to make his beta work - so long in fact that he had no time left to do the whole route on this trip and he had to return a second time!
@@philclimbr8763 yes, that makes sense, and hadn't occurred to me. there's two ways to see it: focusing on completing the crux and then doing it can give confidence. maybe it's more a bouldering mentality: sticking the crux move is going to be rare. you want everything else dialed, so that when you actually do stick the crux move, you are ready to do the rest.
What was the date of this climb?
Quanti movimenti totali? 🙈
un'ottantina mi pare
So 2 weeks to climb the route and a downgrade? Ondra is really under pressure :)
This is just the first part!!
No downgrade, he graded the first part 9a+/9b and the second 9a which gives you 9b+ in total
The belayer kinda has a lot slack for the first minute or so
Everything explained in the previous video
@@steghiso No Worries I'll be sure to watch
How many ascents of change have there been?
one, by Adam
Thanks
Well actually 2 now 😉
@@steghiso nice
@@steghiso What about "Silence"? Do you give it a go?
so did you downgrade it to 9b?
no, this one was just the first part
First