Yeah, I've been there so many times with that sort of job, when the thing flies off somewhere and I spend the next day tearing the place apart looking for it!!! You'd think I'd be wise to it, but it still happens all to often.
Yeah, me too Ben, I can't wait to have that little engine chugging away. I'm hoping to put together a little display so I can exhibit it at shows - the engine is a bit small on it's own, but with a few suitable props placed round it, it could look really nice. I might get another inverter to use with it, so I can charge a battery using the generator and draw off a more useful voltage to power things.
I might be able to draw quite a bit of the load from the battery to make a cup of tea - in the same way I did with my other set - it was a bit of a struggle even then - a bigger battery would help, but there again, how essential is it that I can make a cup of tea when I have cool vintage stoves to play with!!! It'll still be an interesting experiment to try one day.
Hi Donkeykokong, yeah they're pretty amazing old things - they can be neglected and left in a pile of junk for years, then with a little TLC they're back running again. So solidly built. Glad you like them too.
intresting video, wish that I could se some more from the internal gears and crank. The manual says its hollow pined to allow oil in the bigend journal
I should really have opened up the bottom, but from what I could see, that would involve separating the seal to the petrol tank in order to remove the bottom plate of the engine, and I was kind of in a rush to get it running for a show. I'm hoping that by changing the oil, then running the engine for a bit, then changing the oil again, I might have dragged out most of the sludge - there's always that risk of the holes into the oil splasher bath being partially blocked, causing insufficient oiling.
What a peachy little set, as you say most fortunate the water level didn't get as high as the bore. I wonder if the orientation of this played a role in the little f12. Bought an incomplete jap yesterday so I could copy the air filter for my rotovator, gentleman said he'd identified it as a wd Genset jap 4a but I can't find any reference on Google. Beautiful little thing, lots of brass.
Yeah, I could have bought myself a right pup if it had filled the bore with water - I've yet to see if the generator works, but it should be fine - might need new brushes I guess. I was wondering the same thing myself - did this influence the F12? I have an F12 on my JP lawnmower, but I've never done any work on the engine to see how similar they are. If ever there was a lawnmower that sounds like a motorbike!!! - and from the footage I've seen of these generator sets, I think they have a similar sound. Your incomplete JAP sounds good - hope we get top see that in a video sometime, in whatever form it is in.
@@GrumpyTim is it a dynamo or is there a rectifier lurking in the boxes? Un seized my f12 with a view to making a go kart but that's as far as I got. Such a pleasing light little package, lots of nice organic shape in the tin and castings, also like the old motorbikes.
My hunch is that it's a dynamo - that would also fit with the fact that you can apply power to it to start the engine, however I saw a comment somewhere warning about it having a Beryllium rectifier - guess I'll find out when I open it up. Coo, the F12 would be great on a go kart.
@@GrumpyTim I've heard similar beryllium stories around the bth magnetos, gemstone dust in the capacitors being the source in that case. Doesn't sound too fanciful when you consider the windings were insulated with beatle shells.
I was just looking at a circuit diagram - it's definitely just a dynamo as I suspected. The earliest models appear to have no suppressors but that wasn't so great for military radio use, so they added 2 across the brushes and 2 in the electrical box - maybe those capacitors contain Beryllium - I guess I'll check them to see if they're still working and replace them if necessary.
I cant get over the fact that the rotation is opposite to any small engine I have ever seen. Usually with small stubborn engines you can use an electric drill to spin the motor on the nut on the pulley which in this case would undo a normal RH nut.
I've only tended to use the drill method to confirm there's a spark - I was able to do that on this engine because, without the spark plug in, the nut was just tight enough to stay in place as I rotated it with the drill. I think I said in the video that I knew the spark was weak, but it kept nearly running, so I persisted pulling on that rope for far longer than I should have. It's lucky that the coil finally gave up and wouldn't produce a spark at all, otherwise I might still be out there trying to get it to start!!!
That's a good point - I nearly braved the rain and mud to go and get tweezers when I was working on the valves, but I was just thinking of ease of installing the retaining pin at the time, I hadn't thought about the nasty nip you could get if you slipped. It would be even worse on an engine with the split collet type retainers as against the pin through a hole type - now you've mentioned it I'll definitely use tweezers next time.
@@GrumpyTim I only know because I've got 6 and a half fingers and a bad back... Still got me sense though (And two thumbs).. And don't even mention 'bout putting me thumb on me mates front brake disc after coming off motorway.. Nice one
Years ago I'd have said that I was careful and therefore wouldn't have an accident - now I'm wiser, and I'm all too aware that you're only ever a second away from a lapse in concentration, or that little thing that you know you shouldn't do, but you've got away with it so many times, it must be ok now, and so on. I'm probably quite lucky, because most of my little incidents have been "little incidents", but even then, I still try to learn from them rather than just ignoring them.
7:20 . Oil is a lubricant ,it is the opposite of what you need to achive with your bore hone, which is friction.Use kerosene or other mineral spirits to better flush away the products of the hone.
I'll try to remember that next time I use the hone Roman - I don't use it very often, so I'll write myself a note to keep with the hone, cheers for the tip.
![[Watch Party] RoV Pro League 2024 Winter | ( Bacon Time Vs FS )](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lD6z1BugdZw/mqdefault.jpg)
The moment where you push down those valve springs would probably be the moment where I would mess it up and lose that spring forever.
Yeah, I've been there so many times with that sort of job, when the thing flies off somewhere and I spend the next day tearing the place apart looking for it!!! You'd think I'd be wise to it, but it still happens all to often.
Looks good. Looking forward to part 2 and seeing it run.
Yeah, me too Ben, I can't wait to have that little engine chugging away. I'm hoping to put together a little display so I can exhibit it at shows - the engine is a bit small on it's own, but with a few suitable props placed round it, it could look really nice. I might get another inverter to use with it, so I can charge a battery using the generator and draw off a more useful voltage to power things.
@@GrumpyTim That could work, though at 300 watts it will not be able to make tea...
I might be able to draw quite a bit of the load from the battery to make a cup of tea - in the same way I did with my other set - it was a bit of a struggle even then - a bigger battery would help, but there again, how essential is it that I can make a cup of tea when I have cool vintage stoves to play with!!! It'll still be an interesting experiment to try one day.
@@GrumpyTim That is true.
ooo I love those old engines
Hi Donkeykokong, yeah they're pretty amazing old things - they can be neglected and left in a pile of junk for years, then with a little TLC they're back running again. So solidly built. Glad you like them too.
intresting video, wish that I could se some more from the internal gears and crank. The manual says its hollow pined to allow oil in the bigend journal
I should really have opened up the bottom, but from what I could see, that would involve separating the seal to the petrol tank in order to remove the bottom plate of the engine, and I was kind of in a rush to get it running for a show. I'm hoping that by changing the oil, then running the engine for a bit, then changing the oil again, I might have dragged out most of the sludge - there's always that risk of the holes into the oil splasher bath being partially blocked, causing insufficient oiling.
What a peachy little set, as you say most fortunate the water level didn't get as high as the bore.
I wonder if the orientation of this played a role in the little f12.
Bought an incomplete jap yesterday so I could copy the air filter for my rotovator, gentleman said he'd identified it as a wd Genset jap 4a but I can't find any reference on Google. Beautiful little thing, lots of brass.
Yeah, I could have bought myself a right pup if it had filled the bore with water - I've yet to see if the generator works, but it should be fine - might need new brushes I guess.
I was wondering the same thing myself - did this influence the F12? I have an F12 on my JP lawnmower, but I've never done any work on the engine to see how similar they are. If ever there was a lawnmower that sounds like a motorbike!!! - and from the footage I've seen of these generator sets, I think they have a similar sound.
Your incomplete JAP sounds good - hope we get top see that in a video sometime, in whatever form it is in.
@@GrumpyTim is it a dynamo or is there a rectifier lurking in the boxes?
Un seized my f12 with a view to making a go kart but that's as far as I got.
Such a pleasing light little package, lots of nice organic shape in the tin and castings, also like the old motorbikes.
My hunch is that it's a dynamo - that would also fit with the fact that you can apply power to it to start the engine, however I saw a comment somewhere warning about it having a Beryllium rectifier - guess I'll find out when I open it up.
Coo, the F12 would be great on a go kart.
@@GrumpyTim I've heard similar beryllium stories around the bth magnetos, gemstone dust in the capacitors being the source in that case.
Doesn't sound too fanciful when you consider the windings were insulated with beatle shells.
I was just looking at a circuit diagram - it's definitely just a dynamo as I suspected. The earliest models appear to have no suppressors but that wasn't so great for military radio use, so they added 2 across the brushes and 2 in the electrical box - maybe those capacitors contain Beryllium - I guess I'll check them to see if they're still working and replace them if necessary.
I cant get over the fact that the rotation is opposite to any small engine I have ever seen. Usually with small stubborn engines you can use an electric drill to spin the motor on the nut on the pulley which in this case would undo a normal RH nut.
I've only tended to use the drill method to confirm there's a spark - I was able to do that on this engine because, without the spark plug in, the nut was just tight enough to stay in place as I rotated it with the drill. I think I said in the video that I knew the spark was weak, but it kept nearly running, so I persisted pulling on that rope for far longer than I should have. It's lucky that the coil finally gave up and wouldn't produce a spark at all, otherwise I might still be out there trying to get it to start!!!
lovely... always use tweezers to remove collets or you may lose the end of your digit but happydays and wicked vid : )
That's a good point - I nearly braved the rain and mud to go and get tweezers when I was working on the valves, but I was just thinking of ease of installing the retaining pin at the time, I hadn't thought about the nasty nip you could get if you slipped. It would be even worse on an engine with the split collet type retainers as against the pin through a hole type - now you've mentioned it I'll definitely use tweezers next time.
@@GrumpyTim I only know because I've got 6 and a half fingers and a bad back... Still got me sense though (And two thumbs).. And don't even mention 'bout putting me thumb on me mates front brake disc after coming off motorway.. Nice one
Years ago I'd have said that I was careful and therefore wouldn't have an accident - now I'm wiser, and I'm all too aware that you're only ever a second away from a lapse in concentration, or that little thing that you know you shouldn't do, but you've got away with it so many times, it must be ok now, and so on. I'm probably quite lucky, because most of my little incidents have been "little incidents", but even then, I still try to learn from them rather than just ignoring them.
@@GrumpyTim Nice one Tim x
7:20 . Oil is a lubricant ,it is the opposite of what you need to achive with your bore hone, which is friction.Use kerosene or other mineral spirits to better flush away the products of the hone.
I'll try to remember that next time I use the hone Roman - I don't use it very often, so I'll write myself a note to keep with the hone, cheers for the tip.
❤
Cheers.