That is so cool. Smart method! I gotta get me one of those tiny touch plates. I like how it stores right there on the gantry - unlike my inconvenient thing that never gets used.
You only need three points. There are G-code senders that have this feature. G-sender is a free grbl based software by Sienci Labs that can do this. It coaches you through each step & after you give it your measurements it will tell you exactly how far & which direction to move one of the Y-rails in order to square it. When I setup my router it advised me to move my rail 0.4mm towards the front of the table. If the x&y axis’ are any multiple of 3&4 the diagonal will always be a multiple of 5. This makes it easier when reading your tape and calculating the correction. The opposite corner will take care of itself if the Y-rails are parallel.
Yup you can do it that way as well. Doing it this way gives you a sense of your overall error since the difference is more than the error. This stops people from chasing too may zeros measuring each axis length and endstop offsets, two measurements quick and easy. Getting under 0.5mm error over 8 feet is usually where people stop. This also offsets the error in firmware so you do not have to worry about what software you use for sending or CAM. I try to make sure people can use any software they choose including gsender.
Man thats fast.. how do you archive F17000? I use Marlin and i try to mod the max_travel and so on... nothing happens i cant drive that fast. Any ideas?
Ryan, at this moment I have gotten all the home plates on my lowrider3 correct. Now I want to start seeing if my machine is squaring. But I have some problems and I don't know if it's normal or it just happens to me, being in the farthest part of my X and Y.Home when reaching the middle of my Y axis stops and throws an error that says the following "printer halted. kill() called" and the same with the X.
No you need the touch to account for tool changes. Everytime you swap an endmill the position will vary in the Z direction. Different sizes would also likely trigger the probe at different heights if you reversed the probe.
ESP3D on an SKR Pro. If you search the site/shop you will see some info in the product page and of course lots of us have been using them in the forums.
Dude, get yourself a metric measuring tape.. For most measurements I don't, but for things like that or for finding the center of a space..................METRIC.
Nice fast rapid moves. Very helpful info, cheers for sharing GCODE in the description Ryan!
dang Ryan, I had no Idea that the LR3's rapids could be cranked up that fast. Nice! Thanks again for a great contribution to the maker community.
That is so cool. Smart method!
I gotta get me one of those tiny touch plates. I like how it stores right there on the gantry - unlike my inconvenient thing that never gets used.
You only need three points. There are G-code senders that have this feature. G-sender is a free grbl based software by Sienci Labs that can do this. It coaches you through each step & after you give it your measurements it will tell you exactly how far & which direction to move one of the Y-rails in order to square it. When I setup my router it advised me to move my rail 0.4mm towards the front of the table.
If the x&y axis’ are any multiple of 3&4 the diagonal will always be a multiple of 5. This makes it easier when reading your tape and calculating the correction. The opposite corner will take care of itself if the Y-rails are parallel.
Yup you can do it that way as well. Doing it this way gives you a sense of your overall error since the difference is more than the error. This stops people from chasing too may zeros measuring each axis length and endstop offsets, two measurements quick and easy. Getting under 0.5mm error over 8 feet is usually where people stop. This also offsets the error in firmware so you do not have to worry about what software you use for sending or CAM. I try to make sure people can use any software they choose including gsender.
What 3d printed piece are you using for dust collection with that Makita router?
It comes standard with the makita mount. With a little classy blue tape to try and catch all the hdpe chips.
Man thats fast.. how do you archive F17000? I use Marlin and i try to mod the max_travel and so on... nothing happens i cant drive that fast. Any ideas?
Hey, consider putting a link to the tiny touch plate in the description!
Ryan, at this moment I have gotten all the home plates on my lowrider3 correct. Now I want to start seeing if my machine is squaring. But I have some problems and I don't know if it's normal or it just happens to me, being in the farthest part of my X and Y.Home when reaching the middle of my Y axis stops and throws an error that says the following "printer halted. kill() called" and the same with the X.
Hi, please visit the V1e.com forums, please. TH-cam is not a great place for technical help.
Awesome! Is something like a "PINDA" / "auto adjust z height" possible for the lowrider? Haven't found any documentation for that
No you need the touch to account for tool changes. Everytime you swap an endmill the position will vary in the Z direction. Different sizes would also likely trigger the probe at different heights if you reversed the probe.
What app do you use to control LR3 in the video?What hardware needs to be added to LR3 to support this app?Thank you.
ESP3D on an SKR Pro. If you search the site/shop you will see some info in the product page and of course lots of us have been using them in the forums.
Dude, get yourself a metric measuring tape.. For most measurements I don't, but for things like that or for finding the center of a space..................METRIC.
??? That is Metric, We watching the same video?