In this video I explain how to build and bleed TRX-4 shocks. There are some quirks to the shocks that make them hydro-lock if not bled properly. #Traxxas #TRX4
Great video, wish. I had watched your video earlier when changing oil and not the other one on youtube. Thats last little step seems to be the crucial one. The other video didnt show and I had the hydrolock you mentioned. Thanks!
This is Wrong. These are emulsion shocks that mix oil and air. They should NOT hydro-lock. The Traxxas manual (available on their site...) shows to leave 6.7mm of AIR at the top of the shock with the shaft fully compressed.
Even with this video the shock build is still quite difficult. The really thick o-rings start sealing too soon into turning the caps. Also the next time I change the oil I’m using dyed shock oil because it’s next to impossible to see clear shock oil next to silver. Enough complaining. Only issues with the TRX4 Sport Kit have been the e-clips on the portals and now these shocks. Overall great kit
Are these the shocks the car comes with, or upgrades? I just picked up the TRX Sport with tracks from a resale and am wondering already if the stock shocks are not needing upgraded.
Building this kit right now Did you have trouble finding a green dot on the rear shocks ? I don’t see any dots. Is there a way to distinguish the rear from the front without a dot ?
THANKS RAZOR. GOIN THRU MY TRX4 FOR TODAYS QUARANTINE PROJECT ALWAYS GOOD TO HAVE A VIDEO ON THE CAR IM WORKIN ON JUST TO SEE IF ANYTHING DIFFERS THAN OTHER STYLES OF CARS MAINTENANCE OR REBUILDS 🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
Ok thank you. My wife and I had the brightest flashlight we have shining a light on it trying to catch the faintest glimpse of a green dot lol I have a ready to run defender and it has very noticeable green stripe on it.
I believe the chassis kit springs are all TRA8041, 0.45 rate springs. I ended up going to Orange (TRA8044) front and White (TRA8043) rear, which work a lot better. The stock springs are super stiff.
Crawler shocks are never supposed to rebound. I am sure by now you know this. Look up some videos involving the crawler, they are a different animal than a regular Traxxas vehicle. I never realized this myself.
Great video, wish. I had watched your video earlier when changing oil and not the other one on youtube. Thats last little step seems to be the crucial one. The other video didnt show and I had the hydrolock you mentioned. Thanks!
thanks!
Great info 👍👍
Good tips. 👍🏻
Thoughts on which springs to use front and rear for the TRX4 sport kit as well as oil weight?
This is Wrong. These are emulsion shocks that mix oil and air. They should NOT hydro-lock. The Traxxas manual (available on their site...) shows to leave 6.7mm of AIR at the top of the shock with the shaft fully compressed.
yep. mine doesnt hydrolock. compresses all the way
@viper7016 I agree. Another internet How-to complaining something is wrong when they can't even read the directions correctly.
never had the hydrolock problem I put the cap on with the shock fully extended instead of push tan
Subscribed
Good video man!! Straight to the point wit no BS useless info like other videos that turn it into a 10 min video!! Good job 👍 !!
Do you want the shock to bottom out? (the last 30 seconds of the video)
Even with this video the shock build is still quite difficult. The really thick o-rings start sealing too soon into turning the caps. Also the next time I change the oil I’m using dyed shock oil because it’s next to impossible to see clear shock oil next to silver. Enough complaining. Only issues with the TRX4 Sport Kit have been the e-clips on the portals and now these shocks. Overall great kit
Are these the shocks the car comes with, or upgrades? I just picked up the TRX Sport with tracks from a resale and am wondering already if the stock shocks are not needing upgraded.
Mine seem to be sticking. Any fix for This! It’s brand new.
What oil did you use? 10. Wt or 30
Building this kit right now
Did you have trouble finding a green dot on the rear shocks ? I don’t see any dots. Is there a way to distinguish the rear from the front without a dot ?
I think all of the shocks are the same. I couldn't find any differences either!
Is the hydrolocking by design? Like, maybe we're supposed to be leaving it like that? Traxxas doesn't mention nothing after screwing the top on.
THANKS RAZOR. GOIN THRU MY TRX4 FOR TODAYS QUARANTINE PROJECT ALWAYS GOOD TO HAVE A VIDEO ON THE CAR IM WORKIN ON JUST TO SEE IF ANYTHING DIFFERS THAN OTHER STYLES OF CARS MAINTENANCE OR REBUILDS 🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
👍🎥👍🥇
Ok thank you. My wife and I had the brightest flashlight we have shining a light on it trying to catch the faintest glimpse of a green dot lol
I have a ready to run defender and it has very noticeable green stripe on it.
I believe the chassis kit springs are all TRA8041, 0.45 rate springs. I ended up going to Orange (TRA8044) front and White (TRA8043) rear, which work a lot better. The stock springs are super stiff.
I run front 0,54 and back 0,61 cause mine is heavy and it's perfect.
The green marks are on the springs on an rtr.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but depending where you are leaving the actual shock rod right before tightening the top cap, is where you are setting droop.
Wrong. At least not with these shocks. Just rebuilt mine to test this so I could give you an answer.
Why no rebound???
Crawler shocks are never supposed to rebound. I am sure by now you know this. Look up some videos involving the crawler, they are a different animal than a regular Traxxas vehicle. I never realized this myself.
Your shocks are gonna leak bleeding them like that out of the 2 o-rings at the bottom. You should watch the video how Traxxas does it.
Where is the video of traxxas for this shoks?
These shocks are a pain in the dick
Is it just me or his thumb nails look so weird? :D
this dosent help me, i need to rebuild mine not just fill it...