I just started my whole R2 project, and am almost done printing the main dome. I still have to do all the little doors/flaps/eye/etc, but it's starting to look like something. It's a neat project for sure!
Thanks for your videos. I'll be following closely. I'm getting a CR10 soon and eventually want to take this on. I noticed you're printing in the open air. I see many others using enclosures and wanted to get your thoughts on using enclosures.
PLA and TPU filaments don't need enclosures as they manage well in ambient room temperatures and don't give off toxic fumes. Other materials like ABS and Polycarbonate can be toxic and need the additional controlled environments that an enclosure provides. With that being said....I still run an air purifier/filter in my print room and I do not hang in the printing room while prints are running. Always be smart about printing and always error on the side of caution.
I printed a Darth Vader helmet last year. It was the first large thing that I ever printed. I wish I’d researched good helmet settings, but I didn’t. It’s super heavy. I think I’m going to make a new one.
@@rprealitycosplay I know better settings now. I even just use 5% on most helmets and it works fine. If I make a new Vader helmet, I’m going to turn my old one into a Kenobi/Rebels style battle damaged Vader helmet.
I keep my settings pretty much at the default settings of the profile in Cura. Any settings that need to change, I use all of the recommended setttings as detailed in the Mr Baddeleys Printed Droid Printed Guide v1.2 202/2 by Nitewing. The only thing I would recommend is setting your Infill to Cubic Subdivision vs something like Gyriod as the large Elegoo printers tend to shake A LOT with Gyriod. Cubic Subdivision is still a very strong infill pattern but does not create the shake on the machine. A lot of shaking on the machine results is horrible layer shifts in your prints.
@@rprealitycosplay Thank you for taking the time to reply 🙂 I also had a lot of shaking when using the standard settings. And with Gyriod infill. Therefore i wanted to find a better solution with less shaking and or lower speed settings. I will try to implement your recommendations.
Patience....for sure....lot's of money, that depends on how deep you get into the features. I am going for a budget R2 that anyone could put together for a relatively low cost. Will see how it goes.
I just started my whole R2 project, and am almost done printing the main dome. I still have to do all the little doors/flaps/eye/etc, but it's starting to look like something. It's a neat project for sure!
This is a great guide. I wish I had had this help when I did mine.
Thanks for your videos. I'll be following closely. I'm getting a CR10 soon and eventually want to take this on. I noticed you're printing in the open air. I see many others using enclosures and wanted to get your thoughts on using enclosures.
PLA and TPU filaments don't need enclosures as they manage well in ambient room temperatures and don't give off toxic fumes. Other materials like ABS and Polycarbonate can be toxic and need the additional controlled environments that an enclosure provides. With that being said....I still run an air purifier/filter in my print room and I do not hang in the printing room while prints are running. Always be smart about printing and always error on the side of caution.
I printed a Darth Vader helmet last year. It was the first large thing that I ever printed. I wish I’d researched good helmet settings, but I didn’t. It’s super heavy. I think I’m going to make a new one.
Check you infill on your slicer. I only use 10% infill for all of my helmets and they are plenty strong
@@rprealitycosplay I know better settings now. I even just use 5% on most helmets and it works fine. If I make a new Vader helmet, I’m going to turn my old one into a Kenobi/Rebels style battle damaged Vader helmet.
I'd be interested in the price spread sheet. I have messaged Mr Baddeley about the Onedrive files. I am unable to find those. Thanks your help.
Hi, I also have an ELEGOO Neptune 4 (Plus) model. And was wondering if you would share your printer's settings/profiles?
Thanks in advance
J.
I keep my settings pretty much at the default settings of the profile in Cura. Any settings that need to change, I use all of the recommended setttings as detailed in the Mr Baddeleys Printed Droid Printed Guide v1.2 202/2 by Nitewing. The only thing I would recommend is setting your Infill to Cubic Subdivision vs something like Gyriod as the large Elegoo printers tend to shake A LOT with Gyriod. Cubic Subdivision is still a very strong infill pattern but does not create the shake on the machine. A lot of shaking on the machine results is horrible layer shifts in your prints.
@@rprealitycosplay Thank you for taking the time to reply 🙂 I also had a lot of shaking when using the standard settings. And with Gyriod infill. Therefore i wanted to find a better solution with less shaking and or lower speed settings. I will try to implement your recommendations.
Alot of patience and money.
Patience....for sure....lot's of money, that depends on how deep you get into the features. I am going for a budget R2 that anyone could put together for a relatively low cost. Will see how it goes.
good job . but , how patreon profile i choose for file 3d print download ; 1,5 ,or 10 dollar ?
sorry my english
tanks
any amount provides you with the files to access
*promosm*