In Alberta if it’s within 1 hour of sunset you’re liable to get a $250 ticket for no lights. So I have the very cheapest $5 MEC.ca lights you can get, nobody ever touches them. Of greater importance are reflectors, that’s what really works. Simple reflective stickers. Lastly I have a bike light that attaches to the rear brake cable, it turns on with the brake, like a proper brake light! So cool.
You covered the subject very well! Well, I commuted an hour to work a few years back, rode home after dark on an unlit bike path, no street lights, and found a Nightrider 250-350 lumens clipped onto the handlebars worked best. The brighter 500-800 lumen lights ruined my night vision and I couldn't see what was around me. At 250 lumens, night vision kicked in and I could see everything around me, foliage, animals, lights from the city reflected in the clouds, and the path ahead, only needing to illuminate close in front to negotiate around obstacles. The USB rechargeable battery never crapped out on me. I still use it as a flashlight. The battery still holds the charge for weeks. I don't ride at night anymore, but it's nice to have that option, just in case, especially now that it gets dark early. I could definitely admit aggressively riding in city traffic might call for brighter lumens, if for any other reason, to be seen. But I've never felt I needed it.
Something that needs to be said about current USB rechargeable lights is that water often gets past the simple little rubber seals on the mini-USB ports, and that often ruins the lights. I’ve gravitated toward ultra-cheap usb-lights after so many good ones got ruined. Some modern weapon lights (for pistols/rifles) now have magnetic charging connections, and it would seem that these are sealed better against water (since there is no port to plug in to). When bicycle lights start using that kind of connection, I’ll agree to start paying more for them again.
Why bother to charge ? I prefer a battery operated ones. I have bad experienced with rechargeable taillight .Do not know when the power is low and when need to use, could not turn on. Best is to use a battery operated ones and the power consumption is low and easy to replace right away when battery low. Also it is readily available at any retail shop. I bought this bike taillight with also laser features which is cheap and good quality. I share the link here: www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z2ZG18V . It cost USD 6.98. So cheap and value for money!!!
@@difflocktwo You're not a ROAD VEHICLE constantly. When on the road, aim them to be visible. But on a dark trail without streetlights, aim them down so you don't blind and incapacitate oncoming cyclists. We have almost hit people accidentally this way. You can see the bike but not exactly what it's doing, and it gets worse the closer it gets!
@@pharaohsmagician8329 My bike uses wheels and stays on the ground. I like to have the ground a head lit up evenly. In all situations you don't want light bounced into space or people's eyes You want the light on the road.
You need marker lights to be seen A head-tube light to see ahead Handlebar lights to see where you're going One one your helmet or cap to see what you're looking at And a reference book for making shadow puppets
Don't forget turn signal lights to signal to everyone that you're turning left, right, or don't know where you're going Programmable LED spoke lights to sell your wheels as advertising space Brake-actuated lights so people can see when you, the slowest vehicle on the road, are slowing to stop And a programmable LED tail marquee light, for more advertising space to sell so you can afford more bike stuff
One tip not really discussed is to have a 2nd helmet mounted headlight as well as a (flashing) headlight on the handlebars. The former is *really* useful because it follows your line of sight if you move your head and can be a _life saver_ for cars entering from side streets. A rear light mounted high (or a reflective strip) on a helmet is also useful for visibility from behind.
Helmet lights are a lifesaver, both for being seen and seeing. It doesn't even have to be that bright; I've found around 150 lumens in the sweet spot for not blinding oncoming cyclists and still being effective. As a year-round, daily bike commuter in Seattle, WA, USA, the difference in how many close calls I have from motorists who didn't see me (and I was using a 300-ish lumen handlebar light) before and after using a helmet light is astonishing. Plus being able to see around corners and scan problem areas is incredibly helpful. Just keep it pointed down and NEVER put it on a flash mode.
High quality reflective tape on bike, fenders, bags, and helmet will do much more to keep you visible than most of these lights (not that you shouldn't have good lights too). The reflective tape returns those powerful car headlamps and is visible from MUCH farther away than the typical bike taillight. It's also better because you get coverage in many different spots. Yesterday, I saw 2 cyclist on a busy road, in the dark, wearing all black, barely visible with their red taillights. But as soon as I got to a certain angle on the road they were invisible because their taillights were at the same level as a guardrail. I knew they were there, I'm a cyclist, and I could not find them. It was scary. When I'm commuting by car, I see so many racer wanna-bes with their little red lights, light, aero, and worthless. Meanwhile, the construction guys half a mile down the road, I can see them just fine because they're wearing reflectors. Get better lights AND ditch the black gear. Stick reflective tape all over some bright colored clothing and all over your helmet. There's a reason road crews wear reflective gear and aren't issued little flashy lights instead.
But You have to be seeing by others in daylight too, and the car's lights are not switched on during the day; so You have to have a good set of lights.
Great video. Agree to all of it. One additional comment - if you are riding in unlit areas, and especially trails in the dark, then in addition to light mounted on your bike you need a light mounted on your helmet so you can see around corners before you turn.
Just sharing my personal experience since you showed a model that I own, the Cateye 800. It is solid as a rock ! It has fallen many times from my hands or my bike at full speed on tarmac and it kept working just fine even with scratches and bumps ; the front glass is virtually bullet proof, the rest is metal and a very durable plastic. Really a good value for money on the long haul... downside being it has a conical beam which means it may blind people riding or driving in the opposite direction if you set it at a high angle. Other from that, it won't let you down.
Why bother to charge ? I prefer a battery operated ones. I have bad experienced with rechargeable taillight .Do not know when the power is low and when need to use, could not turn on. Best is to use a battery operated ones and the power consumption is low and easy to replace right away when battery low. Also it is readily available at any retail shop. I bought this bike taillight with also laser features which is cheap and good quality. I share the link here: www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z2ZG18V . It cost USD 6.98. So cheap and value for money!!!
I highly recommend having lights during the day too even on paved trails, with closing speeds over 30 mph it helps see oncoming cyclists on the other side of pedestrians.
To be seen, the best option is a flashing light. Its easy for the "not totally attentive" driver to merge the steady light into the background. If you can then make the light-source a moving one (fix on the pedals?) that stands out even better still.
Well done! I ride in the dark at least 3 days/wk and my 2 greatest challenges while doing so are 1 - blinding LED car and street lights, and 2 - pedestrians wearing dark clothing while running or walking their dogs in a quiet neighborhood.
I'd always recommend/use SVTZO compliant lights - better beam pattern and won't blind everyone coming the other way! I'm also a dynamo fan, would recommend them to any commuting bikes as you never need to think about batteries /charging (plus they're less likely to be stolen)
My Cygolite HotRod front and rear lights have been a great bang for the buck so far. Super bright and pretty good life on a charge with a variety of settings for most situations.
From my experience when driving my car, a flashing headlight on a bike is much more visible than a steady beam. I was recently parked on a dark road, ready to pull out. Three bikes approached from the rear, and they were only visible because one of them had a flashing light. FWIW
@@happydogg312 but in my country blinking lights are only turn signals. Only cars like police, firefighter or emergency cars are allow to have blinking lights. Every light and what he does and who can use it is Reglement in the stvo ( the law for the traffic). Blinkink lights like front light or taillight are not allow
@@happydogg312 turn light are allow to blink or pulse. That is regulatet in the law. Headlight or taillight are konstant lighting. This playing with blinking or pulsing lights other then a turn light are illegal in Germany and the EU is it the same. When it goes dark you must shut on full Headlight and Backlight.
Thanks for the input, especially in regard to lumens. I shudder to think of how many thousands of bike accidents-injuries have been avoided by us bike riders who have been using lights.
Also in Germany flashing mode is prohibited. In addition also the lights need a StVzO confirmation with a special K number on the glas. So a lot of the lights available in the internet for international selling are not allowed for use here. E. g. lights with additional mirroring the light on the ground. The only thing which could happen is, that police will react a bit tolerant to non conforming lights accepting better a light on the bike which works than no lights.
Yes yes yes. And even more yes on lights. As passionate motorcycle rider it paffles me how many riders are out there with tiny little red thingis thinking this will be enough. The number of times i almost crashed into a cyclist because of littlw to no light isnt even funny. Best of all wear a vest that reflects all around. On that note stay save on the road my fellow 2 wheeled brothers. Wether your motor or human powered, were all part of the 2 wheel crazyness.
kind of unnecessary. if they can't see you in broad daylight they can't see you with a small flashing light, especially since it's going to be much less effective in bright sunlight.
@@444animation the strobe probably isn't fast enough and the light probably isn't bright enough, but a fast strobing high beam (~30hz, 1200 lumens) has been shown to drastically reduce daytime accidents between cars and motorcycles.
I’ve had several motorists tell me my rear light is very noticeable. Most car have daytime running lights to make them more visible. If my front and rear lights keep some jackass from running me over, then it’s money well spent.
@@isaackarjala7916 Please can you provide your reference for that? I'd be interested to read that, as my experience as a cyclist, motorcyclist and car driver is that flashing lights are very distracting and do more harm than good.
It's a good guideline. Truly import to choose a suitable and reliable bicycle light,even it a bit of expensive, but,some of the hidden valueS which can't just measured by money.
Good advice - especially the suggestion to have more than the basic two lights. I have at least two at the front and two at the back. I also have a small light on the top of my helmet, white front and red rear, both flashing. For sideways visibility at night I have fitted spoke reflectors to my wheels. Car headlamps light me up like a Christmas tree. Some cyclists might feel self conscious with those but at least I can be seen when I'm waiting at a junction and there's no mistaking that I am on a bicycle. The only drawback is that they are easily knocked off the spokes when I pass my bar lock through the wheel so I also bought some tiny cable ties (zip ties in the USA) to tie the reflectors on. It's fiddly fitting them but well worth it.
I really like the dedicated side lights which screw onto your valve. Makes for really good visibility from the side, especially at those junctions Ollie was talking about. Added advantage, at speed you can pretend you're riding one of the motorcycles from Tron.
6:44 Lights using AA or AAA batteries CAN use rechargeable batteries, and to buy a light with a built in battery means that after 18months when the battery life becomes noticeably degraded you can't change it without it being uneconomical to keep, whereas it's easy to pick up some decent AA or AAA rechargeable batteries and just swap them. Not forgetting to mention that for longer trips you can pack a few pairs of precharged AA or AAAs, which you can't with a light that has a built in battery.
Buy a light which is more powerful than you need, then turn it down. You often get a bigger battery, and can still turn it up when needed. On wide roads I recon 400lumen is enough, although beam pattern matters a lot. 800lumen on a very wide pattern will dazzle badly.
I wanted to put lights on my flat bar gravel. At the same time I was looking at a handlebar extension for another hand position option that would be a little more areo. I found this, Redcomet light/handlebar extension, the more expensive model is what I ordered….of course, it was $82.00. It ships with a phone mount, a computer mount neither of those interest me at this time but there they are. I can’t give a long term review at this point, in fact it arrives today via Amazon so it might be a POS and shipped back, however it looks like the solution I was looking for, no madder the result I at least appreciate the design of this product and the specs so fingers crossed it’s a winner.
Sometimes I give a thumbs up for the content of a video, other times it's simply for the entertainment value! This one is both. Great video Ollie! Beep. Beep. Beep. Beep. ... Beep. Beep. Beep.
I'm now all for dynamo hubs where possible (I think!). I've got some decent Exposure regular lights for helmet/front but if the weather is really cold the battery life drops dramatically and have to be careful how bright I'm running them, especially if they're on full beam for MTB I. If I'm out on MTB trails those lights are a given, or my road bike. But I won a cruiser bike on ebay earlier this year with a dynamo hub/lights. It's now my pub/shopping bike and it's so ridiculously convenient to just jump on it and go somewhere, never have to worry about lights, if they're charged, and all the other noncing about. I'm imminently gonna by a gravel bike and the first thing I intend to do is get it a front dynamo hub and lights so I can commute as many days as possible and go on as many other adventures with little care about how long might lights may or may not last. So yeah, I'd not swap out the hub on a serious enduro MTB or lightweight road racing machine, but if you're out for fun and enjoyment rather than trying to shave a second or too off Strava, then I'm totally converted. Would be great to have a GCN show on dynamo hubs for adventure bike, as obviously you can charge phones or run GPS etc off them too (especially during the day when you don't need the lights), but it's not always obvious what options there are, how well they work, how much drag they have when on and off load, etc, and as noted I'm about to start trying to find out a lot more sometime in November. If you don't know yourselves, I bet you probably know someone to interview who does! Good excuse for Ollie to get his lab coat out again too. :D
I have two lights on the front of my bicycle used together on the low beam setting (Planet Bike Blaze 650 XLR). They may hold a charge for 12 hours on low beam (if my memory serves me correctly?). I have one pointed slightly higher for distance while the other is pointed/aimed slightly lower. I can use the high beam on the light pointed higher (for distance viewing) when traveling down a hill at 40 mph on a dark country road. I use a red back light that uses two AAA batteries (I use Lithium batteries in the rear red light). Having a great lighting system is a wonderful thing.
Noone ever mentions it in this country.....but for seeing when riding on the road the german type beam pattern is great.....because the reflector has a sharp top cut off you can aim it further down the road without blinding oncoming traffic....also you are putting light where you want it so don't need them to be so powerful
Thanks for the video. There's one important point to keep in mind when riding with a front light at night. From my experience as a cyclist, when riding at night with a front light, oncoming drivers may not accurately perceive the distance between themselves and the cyclist. I have had a few close calls in situations where drivers have almost cut me off.
I have a flashing tail light with an accelerometer circuit so when I apply the brakes the light stops flashing and goes solid bright red. Very cool. By the way Ollie you should have your own, Ollie The Science Guy program. You make a convincing science nerd.
I spent the entire video screaming at my TV "But what about dynamo lights!?" but then at literally the last second, they got mentioned! Dynamo is definitely my preference - you never forget to charge (or pack) your lights, they're bolted to the bike so they don't get stolen (or fall off on bumpy roads), and most have excellent shaped beams (to comply with German regulations).
I NEVER charge and NEVER FORGET to turn on my Reelight dynamo lights at dusk. Not the best reliability, but worth servicing every few years (not every few weeks).
I hope to buy a bicycle light that is just right, if the light is too bright, it will illuminate other people's eyes, and if it is too dark, the road conditions will be bad.
Get StVZO certified light and you can get both strong illumination and no dazzle: th-cam.com/video/Qgst8uCix4U/w-d-xo.html This is how tight beam control is in properly designed light: th-cam.com/video/bOCvVHNaZkw/w-d-xo.html And real high end models have also high beam mode for when there's no oncomers.
i'm riding my bike with very bright headlight and downsides of that, your eyes adapts to bright area and everything outside of that area is pitch black. If the light is less powerful, difference will be less and outside of that circle will be more visible.
I noticed that a decade ago when lights were not as bright. I could ride off road better with my less bright handlebar mounted halogen, than the modern ultra bright LED light. Now I need a helmet mounted LED light so I can see when I look to either side.
Surprised you didnt mention the Garmin Varia rear light. Expensive but worth every penny as it works as a radar to detect approaching vehicles and shows up on my head unit. Invaluable when riding alone.
I have a strong preference for removable rechargeable batteries so that I can always carry a spare. Unfortunately, most of the rechargeables are not removable. I found a very inexpensive no-name light a few years ago that uses a single removable 18650 battery, is very bright, and has a good mount, but unfortunately, that particular one is no longer available. There are lots of cheap ones that are basically tactical flashlights packaged with a handlebar or helmet mount, but the mounts aren't very good and some of them have hair-trigger mode switches that react to every little bump on the road.
Why bother to charge ? I prefer a battery operated ones. I have bad experienced with rechargeable taillight .Do not know when the power is low and when need to use, could not turn on. Best is to use a battery operated ones and the power consumption is low and easy to replace right away when battery low. Also it is readily available at any retail shop. I bought this bike taillight with also laser features which is cheap and good quality. I share the link here: www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z2ZG18V . It cost USD 6.98. So cheap and value for money!!!
Thanks a lot for this one, I do 90% of my riding at night (neighborhood time trial laps for exercise). I have knog frog flashers front and rear, and then for illumination I use a Nitecore 1000 lumen headlamp integrated into my aero helmet. That saddle bag with integrated lights is a great idea!
There are soooo many bikes here in the Netherlands with unadjustable super bright lights blinding other cyclists. Even on new and popular bikes. In heavily trafficked areas I often feel I need shades more urgently during the night then during the day :(
A couple additional notes: Flashing front lights should not be used after twilight, as it is a good way to distract or dazzle drivers. I will make exceptions sometimes when riding in snowy conditions, with a flashing low beam secondary light mounted on my front fork so it helps me be seen, but is low enough to not dazzle anyone (as well as being far enough away from my seeing light that /it/ can be seen). Helmet mounted lights are recommended; I always ride with a second red flasher on the back of my helmet as well as the bike mounted one--this helps put the light nearer to driver's eye level. Likewise, a lower beam front helmet mounted light so you can see where you're looking and make eye contact with drivers at intersections.
Ollie & Global Cycling Network, thanks for the humor & bicycle light seasonly update. Since last year you've recommended double the light output on unlighted roads. Has it really changed that much or have manufacturers increased the power of their lighting systems? Glad you included the section on light mounts. Now that bicycle lights are approaching the output of tactical lights, good of Ollie to at least mention solidly aiming headlights. Too bad most manufacturers are not following suit, but you gave a case of oddly sharped tubes as an excuse.
3:30 If you are wondering which light is that it is the bikehut 1600 lumen from Halfords cost £50 lasts 6+hrs if you reduce the brightness if too expensive you can get the cheaper 1000 lumen for £40 It's the best bang for buck light I know of as I am currently using it
Why bother to charge ? I prefer a battery operated ones. I have bad experienced with rechargeable taillight .Do not know when the power is low and when need to use, could not turn on. Best is to use a battery operated ones and the power consumption is low and easy to replace right away when battery low. Also it is readily available at any retail shop. I bought this bike taillight with also laser features which is cheap and good quality. I share the link here: www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z2ZG18V . It cost USD 6.98. So cheap and value for money!!!
Good advice team. FYI. In NZ the front light must be solid during the hours of darkness. its OK to have a flashing and solid, or a "pulse that doesn't go all the way off.
The use of the correct lights for daytime riding should also be advocated especially for cyclists that ride alone 👍 it is also law to use them in certain countries
You mind letting me know the name and model of the front (square) light you are using and which saddle bag is that with then neon like light on the back? Maybe post some links of which lights you are using to help us out? Thanks for the video.
Why bother to charge ? I prefer a battery operated ones. I have bad experienced with rechargeable taillight .Do not know when the power is low and when need to use, could not turn on. Best is to use a battery operated ones and the power consumption is low and easy to replace right away when battery low. Also it is readily available at any retail shop. I bought this bike taillight with also laser features which is cheap and good quality. I share the link here: www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z2ZG18V . It cost USD 6.98. So cheap and value for money!!!
You said about not blinding road users, but I've been blinded whilst on off road cycle path because someone is running a ~1000 lumen light and it's pointed straight ahead. Bright flashing lights are also a nightmare on unlit paths as it seriously screws with your vision flashing between extremely bright and dark, at those times I just have to look off to one side or completely stop.
No mention of bottle dynamos? The 12v ones work quite well with the 12v MR16 LED spotlights and are way more accessible compared to a whole hub dynamo. The latter of which also has the cost (in time & tools or cash at the bike shop) of assembling it into a wheel. Plus they don't require charging, their only real cost is minor tire wear when in use and they can be set up for easily swapping from bike to bike by a quick wire disconnect and bracket change.
6:48 if you get one with an inbuilt recheargeable battery you can throw away the whole lamp as soon as the battery wears out, maybe you meant an inbuilt charging mechanism where you can charge tha battery inside the lamp via USB but you can still take the batteries out in case the get old or you need more light before you get to recharge the empty set of batteries. Built in batteries are planned obsolescence and the main reason for electronic waste
Cheers Ollie BUT bit frustrating. As with most GCN videos this video was really good - apart from missing the single vital requirement that is the achilles heel of most bike lights - IS IT WATERPROOF? The weather has killed so many of my lights over the years - this can be a real problem if you are out in the rain miles from home. There are some brands from sunnier climes that just don't even attempt to address this. It supports your "Have more than one" point and your "USB charging" point as these tend to be far better sealed as you only have to seal the USB port and the switch. Last point: carry a small headtorch so that if you have any issues you can see to fix them.
Could you do a video going into more detail on light monting. I have a Garmin Edge 1030 and it is so confusing figuring out what adapters and mounts are needed to fixate the light under the computer.
Blinding car driver by bike lamp is not easy. He`s light power is very strong. Using two separate light beam is good idea. One far and one near. Black out risk also disappear. Driving fast require to see far Driving on bad terrain path demand wide beam, because you must see where you are going to turn. Head lamp is good choice to spare lamp. Other people see what you looking at
To the guy who uses 2000 lumens on Lakeshore Drive bike path, may your shorts always bunch up on left nut
wtf :D
Lmao
Ugh the worst feeling
In that case, manufacturers should have projectors with cutoff shields for bike lights for city driving
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 man you're peeved! 🤐
Very enlightening, I am no longer in the dark.
I found it illuminating, too.
In Alberta if it’s within 1 hour of sunset you’re liable to get a $250 ticket for no lights. So I have the very cheapest $5 MEC.ca lights you can get, nobody ever touches them.
Of greater importance are reflectors, that’s what really works. Simple reflective stickers.
Lastly I have a bike light that attaches to the rear brake cable, it turns on with the brake, like a proper brake light! So cool.
What happened: Bike light was used.
My English teacher: So basically he died.
🤔 I could gain enlightenment by meditating, as an alternative, I suppose?
You are so bright, most dim-witted people won't understand.
You covered the subject very well!
Well, I commuted an hour to work a few years back, rode home after dark on an unlit bike path, no street lights, and found a Nightrider 250-350 lumens clipped onto the handlebars worked best. The brighter 500-800 lumen lights ruined my night vision and I couldn't see what was around me. At 250 lumens, night vision kicked in and I could see everything around me, foliage, animals, lights from the city reflected in the clouds, and the path ahead, only needing to illuminate close in front to negotiate around obstacles.
The USB rechargeable battery never crapped out on me. I still use it as a flashlight. The battery still holds the charge for weeks. I don't ride at night anymore, but it's nice to have that option, just in case, especially now that it gets dark early.
I could definitely admit aggressively riding in city traffic might call for brighter lumens, if for any other reason, to be seen. But I've never felt I needed it.
Something that needs to be said about current USB rechargeable lights is that water often gets past the simple little rubber seals on the mini-USB ports, and that often ruins the lights. I’ve gravitated toward ultra-cheap usb-lights after so many good ones got ruined. Some modern weapon lights (for pistols/rifles) now have magnetic charging connections, and it would seem that these are sealed better against water (since there is no port to plug in to). When bicycle lights start using that kind of connection, I’ll agree to start paying more for them again.
That sounds like a feature we'd like to see
Why bother to charge ? I prefer a battery operated ones. I have bad experienced with rechargeable taillight .Do not know when the power is low and when need to use, could not turn on. Best is to use a battery operated ones and the power consumption is low and easy to replace right away when battery low. Also it is readily available at any retail shop. I bought this bike taillight with also laser features which is cheap and good quality. I share the link here: www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z2ZG18V . It cost USD 6.98. So cheap and value for money!!!
It can't be stressed enough to properly aim your light downwards.
What? Properly is horizontally, like with all other road vehicles.
@@difflocktwo Cars headlights do not go entirely horizontal though.
@@difflocktwo You're not a ROAD VEHICLE constantly. When on the road, aim them to be visible. But on a dark trail without streetlights, aim them down so you don't blind and incapacitate oncoming cyclists. We have almost hit people accidentally this way.
You can see the bike but not exactly what it's doing, and it gets worse the closer it gets!
@@kaspervestergaard2383 How not?
@@pharaohsmagician8329 My bike uses wheels and stays on the ground. I like to have the ground a head lit up evenly. In all situations you don't want light bounced into space or people's eyes You want the light on the road.
You need marker lights to be seen
A head-tube light to see ahead
Handlebar lights to see where you're going
One one your helmet or cap to see what you're looking at
And a reference book for making shadow puppets
Major Dick you need to wear light up clothes. BE THE LIGHT
Don't forget turn signal lights to signal to everyone that you're turning left, right, or don't know where you're going
Programmable LED spoke lights to sell your wheels as advertising space
Brake-actuated lights so people can see when you, the slowest vehicle on the road, are slowing to stop
And a programmable LED tail marquee light, for more advertising space to sell so you can afford more bike stuff
and don't forget to not blind the people with your headlamp!
Don't forget the led jacket
Passive lighting is also a good idea: reflecting material on clothes & tires. Bright/light clothing instead of the usual black.
One tip not really discussed is to have a 2nd helmet mounted headlight as well as a (flashing) headlight on the handlebars.
The former is *really* useful because it follows your line of sight if you move your head and can be a _life saver_ for cars entering from side streets.
A rear light mounted high (or a reflective strip) on a helmet is also useful for visibility from behind.
Helmet lights are a lifesaver, both for being seen and seeing. It doesn't even have to be that bright; I've found around 150 lumens in the sweet spot for not blinding oncoming cyclists and still being effective.
As a year-round, daily bike commuter in Seattle, WA, USA, the difference in how many close calls I have from motorists who didn't see me (and I was using a 300-ish lumen handlebar light) before and after using a helmet light is astonishing. Plus being able to see around corners and scan problem areas is incredibly helpful.
Just keep it pointed down and NEVER put it on a flash mode.
High quality reflective tape on bike, fenders, bags, and helmet will do much more to keep you visible than most of these lights (not that you shouldn't have good lights too). The reflective tape returns those powerful car headlamps and is visible from MUCH farther away than the typical bike taillight. It's also better because you get coverage in many different spots. Yesterday, I saw 2 cyclist on a busy road, in the dark, wearing all black, barely visible with their red taillights. But as soon as I got to a certain angle on the road they were invisible because their taillights were at the same level as a guardrail. I knew they were there, I'm a cyclist, and I could not find them. It was scary. When I'm commuting by car, I see so many racer wanna-bes with their little red lights, light, aero, and worthless. Meanwhile, the construction guys half a mile down the road, I can see them just fine because they're wearing reflectors. Get better lights AND ditch the black gear. Stick reflective tape all over some bright colored clothing and all over your helmet. There's a reason road crews wear reflective gear and aren't issued little flashy lights instead.
But You have to be seeing by others in daylight too, and the car's lights are not switched on during the day;
so You have to have a good set of lights.
Great to see the use of SI units, maybe now you'll use meters per second and kelvins.
Great video. Agree to all of it. One additional comment - if you are riding in unlit areas, and especially trails in the dark, then in addition to light mounted on your bike you need a light mounted on your helmet so you can see around corners before you turn.
Just sharing my personal experience since you showed a model that I own, the Cateye 800. It is solid as a rock ! It has fallen many times from my hands or my bike at full speed on tarmac and it kept working just fine even with scratches and bumps ; the front glass is virtually bullet proof, the rest is metal and a very durable plastic. Really a good value for money on the long haul... downside being it has a conical beam which means it may blind people riding or driving in the opposite direction if you set it at a high angle. Other from that, it won't let you down.
Why bother to charge ? I prefer a battery operated ones. I have bad experienced with rechargeable taillight .Do not know when the power is low and when need to use, could not turn on. Best is to use a battery operated ones and the power consumption is low and easy to replace right away when battery low. Also it is readily available at any retail shop. I bought this bike taillight with also laser features which is cheap and good quality. I share the link here: www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z2ZG18V . It cost USD 6.98. So cheap and value for money!!!
When Ollie said "a few pounds" for lights, i actually thought "that heavy?".
I constantly flash people all the time when biking. Sometimes even when I’m not.
Reminds me how i got banned from Baskin Robbins
@@Xighor sorry what?
@@Xighor Lol!! 🤣
I highly recommend having lights during the day too even on paved trails, with closing speeds over 30 mph it helps see oncoming cyclists on the other side of pedestrians.
Hi Ollie, great to meet you in that country car park recently - I had no idea flashing lights could hold such meaning! xxx
😂
To be seen, the best option is a flashing light. Its easy for the "not totally attentive" driver to merge the steady light into the background. If you can then make the light-source a moving one (fix on the pedals?) that stands out even better still.
Well done! I ride in the dark at least 3 days/wk and my 2 greatest challenges while doing so are 1 - blinding LED car and street lights, and 2 - pedestrians wearing dark clothing while running or walking their dogs in a quiet neighborhood.
I'd always recommend/use SVTZO compliant lights - better beam pattern and won't blind everyone coming the other way! I'm also a dynamo fan, would recommend them to any commuting bikes as you never need to think about batteries /charging (plus they're less likely to be stolen)
StVZO compliant lights doesn't help not to blind people, if people are to ignorant to set up their light properly.
A fork doesn't help you eat peas if you stab yourself in the eye with it either....
My Cygolite HotRod front and rear lights have been a great bang for the buck so far. Super bright and pretty good life on a charge with a variety of settings for most situations.
I just wanted to add that, while enlightening to be sure, I also found this video illuminating.
Thanks man👊🏻
American living in Germany. Awesome to get a specific example for where I’m living. Thank you!
That video was “LIT”!
Can you make a video on how the dynamo thing? What to look for when purchasing, how to install it etc.
From my experience when driving my car, a flashing headlight on a bike is much more visible than a steady beam. I was recently parked on a dark road, ready to pull out. Three bikes approached from the rear, and they were only visible because one of them had a flashing light. FWIW
But flashing lights are not in every country legal. In Germany it is illegal
How were the other lights not seen?
couldn't agree more.
@@happydogg312 but in my country blinking lights are only turn signals.
Only cars like police, firefighter or emergency cars are allow to have blinking lights.
Every light and what he does and who can use it is Reglement in the stvo ( the law for the traffic).
Blinkink lights like front light or taillight are not allow
@@happydogg312 turn light are allow to blink or pulse. That is regulatet in the law.
Headlight or taillight are konstant lighting.
This playing with blinking or pulsing lights other then a turn light are illegal in Germany and the EU is it the same.
When it goes dark you must shut on full Headlight and Backlight.
Thanks for the input, especially in regard to lumens. I shudder to think of how many thousands of bike accidents-injuries have been avoided by us bike riders who have been using lights.
5:00 Keep in mind that legal requirements may prohibit flashing modes. This is the case in The Netherlands.
Yeah, Sweden as well. No flashing head lights and the rear light has to flash at least 200 times per minute.
What a relief. It's impossible to judge the distance to flashing lights in your mirror.
Also in Germany flashing mode is prohibited. In addition also the lights need a StVzO confirmation with a special K number on the glas.
So a lot of the lights available in the internet for international selling are not allowed for use here. E. g. lights with additional mirroring the light on the ground.
The only thing which could happen is, that police will react a bit tolerant to non conforming lights accepting better a light on the bike which works than no lights.
Yes yes yes. And even more yes on lights. As passionate motorcycle rider it paffles me how many riders are out there with tiny little red thingis thinking this will be enough. The number of times i almost crashed into a cyclist because of littlw to no light isnt even funny. Best of all wear a vest that reflects all around. On that note stay save on the road my fellow 2 wheeled brothers. Wether your motor or human powered, were all part of the 2 wheel crazyness.
At 8:45
Please where can I get that mount ! I need one for my lamp and GoPro 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Not just for nighttime riding. I use my front and rear lights during daytime riding, in flashing mode, to enhance my ability to be seen by drivers.
yeah! good shout!
kind of unnecessary. if they can't see you in broad daylight they can't see you with a small flashing light, especially since it's going to be much less effective in bright sunlight.
@@444animation the strobe probably isn't fast enough and the light probably isn't bright enough, but a fast strobing high beam (~30hz, 1200 lumens) has been shown to drastically reduce daytime accidents between cars and motorcycles.
I’ve had several motorists tell me my rear light is very noticeable. Most car have daytime running lights to make them more visible. If my front and rear lights keep some jackass from running me over, then it’s money well spent.
@@isaackarjala7916 Please can you provide your reference for that? I'd be interested to read that, as my experience as a cyclist, motorcyclist and car driver is that flashing lights are very distracting and do more harm than good.
I despise flashing lights, especially those aimed too high, which seems to be what everyone around my area, is doing.
Theyre banned here, but No one Cares unfortunately^^
Flashing lights are prohibited in Germany for example
they're the worst
5:23 very nice with the sound there, editors, i see you!
Sorry mate that's not gcn that's just the song, I've heard this song many times
@@abramkidane9387 He means that sound matches with the light intensity
@@abramkidane9387 What song is it??
It's a good guideline. Truly import to choose a suitable and reliable bicycle light,even it a bit of expensive, but,some of the hidden valueS which can't just measured by money.
I love the Nite Rider Lights and I used them for the city rides.
Good advice - especially the suggestion to have more than the basic two lights. I have at least two at the front and two at the back. I also have a small light on the top of my helmet, white front and red rear, both flashing. For sideways visibility at night I have fitted spoke reflectors to my wheels. Car headlamps light me up like a Christmas tree. Some cyclists might feel self conscious with those but at least I can be seen when I'm waiting at a junction and there's no mistaking that I am on a bicycle. The only drawback is that they are easily knocked off the spokes when I pass my bar lock through the wheel so I also bought some tiny cable ties (zip ties in the USA) to tie the reflectors on. It's fiddly fitting them but well worth it.
While I’m not an enduro rider, I like dynamo lighting because 1. You don’t have to worry about charging it, and 2. they are harder to steal.
I've found that spoke lights do more than any other lights to make me visible, also they look spectacular.
I really like the dedicated side lights which screw onto your valve. Makes for really good visibility from the side, especially at those junctions Ollie was talking about.
Added advantage, at speed you can pretend you're riding one of the motorcycles from Tron.
That sounds cool.
This is just what I was needing. I had no idea what I needed, but now I do :)
6:44 Lights using AA or AAA batteries CAN use rechargeable batteries, and to buy a light with a built in battery means that after 18months when the battery life becomes noticeably degraded you can't change it without it being uneconomical to keep, whereas it's easy to pick up some decent AA or AAA rechargeable batteries and just swap them.
Not forgetting to mention that for longer trips you can pack a few pairs of precharged AA or AAAs, which you can't with a light that has a built in battery.
Appreciated the backing in the dark demo. Hahaha
I use orfos flare pro lights for "to be seen" lights/difused. They run from a standard 2 port USB backup battery pack.
Buy a light which is more powerful than you need, then turn it down.
You often get a bigger battery, and can still turn it up when needed.
On wide roads I recon 400lumen is enough, although beam pattern matters a lot. 800lumen on a very wide pattern will dazzle badly.
I wanted to put lights on my flat bar gravel. At the same time I was looking at a handlebar extension for another hand position option that would be a little more areo. I found this, Redcomet light/handlebar extension, the more expensive model is what I ordered….of course, it was $82.00. It ships with a phone mount, a computer mount neither of those interest me at this time but there they are.
I can’t give a long term review at this point, in fact it arrives today via Amazon so it might be a POS and shipped back, however it looks like the solution I was looking for, no madder the result I at least appreciate the design of this product and the specs so fingers crossed it’s a winner.
I love my Light & Motion SECA 2200... It's been running perfectly for years:)
The Bat Signal example elevated this video tremendously. Cheers!
Dynamo front hub always! I'm in to cycle touring, not racing. SON Nabendynamo is the best
Sometimes I give a thumbs up for the content of a video, other times it's simply for the entertainment value! This one is both. Great video Ollie!
Beep. Beep. Beep. Beep. ... Beep. Beep. Beep.
I'm now all for dynamo hubs where possible (I think!). I've got some decent Exposure regular lights for helmet/front but if the weather is really cold the battery life drops dramatically and have to be careful how bright I'm running them, especially if they're on full beam for MTB I. If I'm out on MTB trails those lights are a given, or my road bike. But I won a cruiser bike on ebay earlier this year with a dynamo hub/lights. It's now my pub/shopping bike and it's so ridiculously convenient to just jump on it and go somewhere, never have to worry about lights, if they're charged, and all the other noncing about. I'm imminently gonna by a gravel bike and the first thing I intend to do is get it a front dynamo hub and lights so I can commute as many days as possible and go on as many other adventures with little care about how long might lights may or may not last. So yeah, I'd not swap out the hub on a serious enduro MTB or lightweight road racing machine, but if you're out for fun and enjoyment rather than trying to shave a second or too off Strava, then I'm totally converted. Would be great to have a GCN show on dynamo hubs for adventure bike, as obviously you can charge phones or run GPS etc off them too (especially during the day when you don't need the lights), but it's not always obvious what options there are, how well they work, how much drag they have when on and off load, etc, and as noted I'm about to start trying to find out a lot more sometime in November. If you don't know yourselves, I bet you probably know someone to interview who does! Good excuse for Ollie to get his lab coat out again too. :D
I have two lights on the front of my bicycle used together on the low beam setting (Planet Bike Blaze 650 XLR). They may hold a charge for 12 hours on low beam (if my memory serves me correctly?). I have one pointed slightly higher for distance while the other is pointed/aimed slightly lower. I can use the high beam on the light pointed higher (for distance viewing) when traveling down a hill at 40 mph on a dark country road. I use a red back light that uses two AAA batteries (I use Lithium batteries in the rear red light). Having a great lighting system is a wonderful thing.
Noone ever mentions it in this country.....but for seeing when riding on the road the german type beam pattern is great.....because the reflector has a sharp top cut off you can aim it further down the road without blinding oncoming traffic....also you are putting light where you want it so don't need them to be so powerful
Love the lumen explanation! :)
Always a thumbs up for Ollie !!
Thanks for the video. There's one important point to keep in mind when riding with a front light at night.
From my experience as a cyclist, when riding at night with a front light, oncoming drivers may not accurately perceive the distance between themselves and the cyclist. I have had a few close calls in situations where drivers have almost cut me off.
I have a flashing tail light with an accelerometer circuit so when I apply the brakes the light stops flashing and goes solid bright red. Very cool.
By the way Ollie you should have your own, Ollie The Science Guy program. You make a convincing science nerd.
using this tail light myself and it's pretty awesome www.enfitnix.com/ProductDetail/3200774.html
Mr. Fortin, could you please name the brand and model? I am looking for buying something like that.
@@muhammadjahidhasan9457
Portland Design Works Gravity USB Tail Light W/ Accelerometer Available, as everything is, on Amazon.
I spent the entire video screaming at my TV "But what about dynamo lights!?" but then at literally the last second, they got mentioned!
Dynamo is definitely my preference - you never forget to charge (or pack) your lights, they're bolted to the bike so they don't get stolen (or fall off on bumpy roads), and most have excellent shaped beams (to comply with German regulations).
I NEVER charge and NEVER FORGET to turn on my Reelight dynamo lights at dusk. Not the best reliability, but worth servicing every few years (not every few weeks).
I hope to buy a bicycle light that is just right, if the light is too bright, it will illuminate other people's eyes, and if it is too dark, the road conditions will be bad.
Get StVZO certified light and you can get both strong illumination and no dazzle:
th-cam.com/video/Qgst8uCix4U/w-d-xo.html
This is how tight beam control is in properly designed light:
th-cam.com/video/bOCvVHNaZkw/w-d-xo.html
And real high end models have also high beam mode for when there's no oncomers.
I feel brighter after watching this.
I have a set of Bontrager Ion RT Pro lights and am very happy with them.
Totally awesome lights!
i'm riding my bike with very bright headlight and downsides of that, your eyes adapts to bright area and everything outside of that area is pitch black.
If the light is less powerful, difference will be less and outside of that circle will be more visible.
The other down side of bright lights is they blind other people.
@@Ed.R Point them downwards so that they illuminate your path without bliding the geezer in the Range Rover heading in your dir.
@@Evan-zj5mt That's what I do and turn the brightness down.
I noticed that a decade ago when lights were not as bright. I could ride off road better with my less bright handlebar mounted halogen, than the modern ultra bright LED light. Now I need a helmet mounted LED light so I can see when I look to either side.
@@davehause8571 Its unfortunate they don't make lights with a focus. Would be nice also if the led color could be changed.
Just subscribed and I don't know I haven't before seeing I watch at least 10 of your videos a week
K N O G. Best front and rear lights.
Your videos are fantastic !!!!! 🤗
Surprised you didnt mention the Garmin Varia rear light. Expensive but worth every penny as it works as a radar to detect approaching vehicles and shows up on my head unit. Invaluable when riding alone.
GCN sticks with the black kit though
I have a strong preference for removable rechargeable batteries so that I can always carry a spare. Unfortunately, most of the rechargeables are not removable. I found a very inexpensive no-name light a few years ago that uses a single removable 18650 battery, is very bright, and has a good mount, but unfortunately, that particular one is no longer available. There are lots of cheap ones that are basically tactical flashlights packaged with a handlebar or helmet mount, but the mounts aren't very good and some of them have hair-trigger mode switches that react to every little bump on the road.
Why bother to charge ? I prefer a battery operated ones. I have bad experienced with rechargeable taillight .Do not know when the power is low and when need to use, could not turn on. Best is to use a battery operated ones and the power consumption is low and easy to replace right away when battery low. Also it is readily available at any retail shop. I bought this bike taillight with also laser features which is cheap and good quality. I share the link here: www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z2ZG18V . It cost USD 6.98. So cheap and value for money!!!
Thanks a lot for this one, I do 90% of my riding at night (neighborhood time trial laps for exercise). I have knog frog flashers front and rear, and then for illumination I use a Nitecore 1000 lumen headlamp integrated into my aero helmet.
That saddle bag with integrated lights is a great idea!
Love my NiteRider lights 🥰
There are soooo many bikes here in the Netherlands with unadjustable super bright lights blinding other cyclists. Even on new and popular bikes. In heavily trafficked areas I often feel I need shades more urgently during the night then during the day :(
A couple additional notes:
Flashing front lights should not be used after twilight, as it is a good way to distract or dazzle drivers. I will make exceptions sometimes when riding in snowy conditions, with a flashing low beam secondary light mounted on my front fork so it helps me be seen, but is low enough to not dazzle anyone (as well as being far enough away from my seeing light that /it/ can be seen).
Helmet mounted lights are recommended; I always ride with a second red flasher on the back of my helmet as well as the bike mounted one--this helps put the light nearer to driver's eye level. Likewise, a lower beam front helmet mounted light so you can see where you're looking and make eye contact with drivers at intersections.
Very helpful. I don't ride my bike outside 5 solid months out of the year partly because of visibility issues. Partly because of sub freezing temps.
Both are solvable issues
Ollie & Global Cycling Network, thanks for the humor & bicycle light seasonly update.
Since last year you've recommended double the light output on unlighted roads. Has it really changed that much or have manufacturers increased the power of their lighting systems?
Glad you included the section on light mounts. Now that bicycle lights are approaching the output of tactical lights, good of Ollie to at least mention solidly aiming headlights. Too bad most manufacturers are not following suit, but you gave a case of oddly sharped tubes as an excuse.
I recommend Fenix BC30. You can swap out the batteries, and the highest setting is like a car headlight :)
Sooo fricKen Smart, witty and WiSe...I have learned more than something...Grazie🔥🌪🪘
Thanks for shedding some light on this overlooked subject!
3:30 If you are wondering which light is that it is the bikehut 1600 lumen from Halfords cost £50 lasts 6+hrs if you reduce the brightness if too expensive you can get the cheaper 1000 lumen for £40
It's the best bang for buck light I know of as I am currently using it
Why bother to charge ? I prefer a battery operated ones. I have bad experienced with rechargeable taillight .Do not know when the power is low and when need to use, could not turn on. Best is to use a battery operated ones and the power consumption is low and easy to replace right away when battery low. Also it is readily available at any retail shop. I bought this bike taillight with also laser features which is cheap and good quality. I share the link here: www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z2ZG18V . It cost USD 6.98. So cheap and value for money!!!
A unique but very effective light mount idea is on the front or rear hubs so as you ride you get an extra flashing effect from your wheels
Whats the model of rear light flashing on the presenters bicycle? I like the flash pattern.
Good advice team. FYI. In NZ the front light must be solid during the hours of darkness. its OK to have a flashing and solid, or a "pulse that doesn't go all the way off.
really love olli‘s presenting!
The use of the correct lights for daytime riding should also be advocated especially for cyclists that ride alone 👍 it is also law to use them in certain countries
You mind letting me know the name and model of the front (square) light you are using and which saddle bag is that with then neon like light on the back? Maybe post some links of which lights you are using to help us out? Thanks for the video.
Why bother to charge ? I prefer a battery operated ones. I have bad experienced with rechargeable taillight .Do not know when the power is low and when need to use, could not turn on. Best is to use a battery operated ones and the power consumption is low and easy to replace right away when battery low. Also it is readily available at any retail shop. I bought this bike taillight with also laser features which is cheap and good quality. I share the link here: www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z2ZG18V . It cost USD 6.98. So cheap and value for money!!!
@@louislye007able got it, thanks
My pleasure 😏
You said about not blinding road users, but I've been blinded whilst on off road cycle path because someone is running a ~1000 lumen light and it's pointed straight ahead. Bright flashing lights are also a nightmare on unlit paths as it seriously screws with your vision flashing between extremely bright and dark, at those times I just have to look off to one side or completely stop.
Same here. I always yell at them "You're blinding me!" as they pass.
Great job as per usual Ollie.
GCN: Buy most expensive light
Me: buying the cheapest $3 light
EXACTLY.
Yup and leave it on the bike full time because it's cheap to replace if somebody steals it.
And multiples of it💡😎👍🏽
I just get 2 of those rubber chinese lights
I ride in morning darkness in Las Vegas area, I need a neon billboard on my Cannondale! LOL
No mention of bottle dynamos? The 12v ones work quite well with the 12v MR16 LED spotlights and are way more accessible compared to a whole hub dynamo. The latter of which also has the cost (in time & tools or cash at the bike shop) of assembling it into a wheel. Plus they don't require charging, their only real cost is minor tire wear when in use and they can be set up for easily swapping from bike to bike by a quick wire disconnect and bracket change.
Wheel Brightz are super fun and relatively cheap spoke lights which have great side visibility. They are only $20 or so for front and back.
If only lights made drivers get off their phones and look where they're going. >:(
Mark Skinner Touché! Driving appears to be the main inconvenience whilst driving
Perhaps a cyclocomputer active phone jammer light combo?
Mark Skinner
Get off their road
Ascher lights off Amazon all the way, been using them for years, I cycle at least 360 days of the year.
anyone know what saddlebag he has at 9:08? the one with the lights
Topeak iGlow series
6:48 if you get one with an inbuilt recheargeable battery you can throw away the whole lamp as soon as the battery wears out, maybe you meant an inbuilt charging mechanism where you can charge tha battery inside the lamp via USB but you can still take the batteries out in case the get old or you need more light before you get to recharge the empty set of batteries. Built in batteries are planned obsolescence and the main reason for electronic waste
My favourite presenter
Cheers Ollie BUT bit frustrating. As with most GCN videos this video was really good - apart from missing the single vital requirement that is the achilles heel of most bike lights - IS IT WATERPROOF? The weather has killed so many of my lights over the years - this can be a real problem if you are out in the rain miles from home. There are some brands from sunnier climes that just don't even attempt to address this. It supports your "Have more than one" point and your "USB charging" point as these tend to be far better sealed as you only have to seal the USB port and the switch. Last point: carry a small headtorch so that if you have any issues you can see to fix them.
Could you do a video going into more detail on light monting. I have a Garmin Edge 1030 and it is so confusing figuring out what adapters and mounts are needed to fixate the light under the computer.
Awesome explanation. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼.
Great information in this video.
GCN is the only light I need.
Can someone identify the light at the 5:50 mark? Thanks in advance !
Blinding car driver by bike lamp is not easy. He`s light power is very strong.
Using two separate light beam is good idea. One far and one near. Black out risk also disappear. Driving fast require to see far
Driving on bad terrain path demand wide beam, because you must see where you are going to turn. Head lamp is good choice to spare lamp. Other people see what you looking at