Please realize that this drive was manufactured in roughly 1978-79' so it's 37-38 yrs old. We only used the CV joint for a short period if time as they were not sturdy enough for long term use. I am curious where you found the replacement CV's as they are NLA. This model is actually an early model called SP1000 and was replaced by the modern ASD8 drive unit around 1980. They are very similar in size. Parts are available for most of the Arnesons. The CV's are hard to source as the original manufacturer wen BK back in the 80's
Hi. Please let me make myself clear, I am in no way casting dispersion on these drives, they are a very well made and capable system even if it has be superseded by newer models, I can't fault the quality of the components or the quality of the construction, design or performance. All the issues I discovered when they were given to me to fit were down to the previous owner, they had been run to death with obviously no maintenance and very little mechanical understanding, my comments were intended as a warning of what someone may find when purchasing secondhand units if they do not choose wisely. As far as the CV's go I left it up to the client to source them as he had purchased them in the first place (I had my hand full just trying to put them right :) I'm not entirely sure where the new replacements came from, the west coast I think, but they fitted and worked perfectly with full rotation at maximum angles , no clunks, dings or sticking, just smooth clean rotation in all directions. Regards, Steve.
No problem. The drives are fairly bullet proof and these very early ones have some differences that we have addressed over the years and made improvements to. If anyone needs parts or sales, they contact www.arnesonmarine.com If you need anything in the future give us a call
For sale if you need them Arneson ASD1200 pair straight drives ( not drop box ) #10 fronts with #8 back halfs. this was a special order for Cigarette boats. Two sets of props, Rollas 18x25 and Stainless clever 16 3/4 x 26 all stuff is 25 spline. Props are clean no marks. Boat was parted out. 734 558 3329 fresh water GL drives discolored but no corrosion.
wHILE WORKING WITH gear boxes on outboards and I/O's , many things could cause this. One being yes oil displacement with water, looks like milk when inspected. I/O's require engine setup to be at 90 degree to the top gear box. engine sunk lower in bilge to meet specifications, like a car transmission to rear wheel drive shaft. constant velocity shaft, if not tight with locking nut could cause vibration problems. getting the L/R drive shafts reversed. R counter-clock prop L clock-wise.
Stephen I have found myself in a similar situation as you have shared with us. I would like to know how you repaired or what was your replacement source for the thrust ball. Respectfully Scott
Hello Scott. I hope the one/ones you have are in better condition than the ones i had to deal with. As far as repairs go, the CV joints had to be rplaced, check for hot-spotting or scoring on the bearing retainer and the bearings, you can't fix these. Check the main shaft where the seals are and look to see if they are scored, they can be tig welded and turned back to spec if you are careful. When it comes to the drive ball - take some 800 grit wet and dry emery paper (wet) go over the whole surface of the ball by hand, this will highlight the "dings" and scores, with careful application of flux and LIGHT heat, being extra careful not overheat one area you can use silver solder to fill the low spots, after that its a simple thing to take it back to something close to what it should have been using various grades of wet and dry, finishing with a 1200 grit, because silver solder is softer than the brass it rubbs back easily, and even if the ball isn't point perfectly spherical after you have finished it will be close enough because the large water/oil seal "O" ring under the swivel retainer should cover any slight deformities, (that is as long as the ball is still spherical to start with,) I checked the ones I had using a lathe and a dial gauge. Hope this will help. Best regards. Steve. ps, Don't forget to use the correct thread locker when you put it back together ;)
Hello I am sorry to say that I cannot tell you where the replacement CV's were sourced from, I left it to the client to replace them as my time was limited, but there may be some information you could find of use in a communication I received from Arneson Industries about a year ago, please read their post and my reply below. I hope this will be of some help to you. Regards, Steve.
Thank's for the comment Sing, nothing wrong with used Arneson drives if you choose wisely. I recommend them as a unit, if they are looked after they will do exactly what it says on the tin, just have to know what you are buying, if it/they need rebuilding - pay accordingly.
Arneson is a good Surface Drives. Very inspiring and the only drawback is just it is too expensive and to complicated in engineering design.... Do you want a Simple Design Surface Drives that is just simply more affordable BUT more efficient... Check us out at www.ecosurface drives.com
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Very good of you to take the time to share this. Thank you.
Please realize that this drive was manufactured in roughly 1978-79' so it's 37-38 yrs old. We only used the CV joint for a short period if time as they were not sturdy enough for long term use. I am curious where you found the replacement CV's as they are NLA. This model is actually an early model called SP1000 and was replaced by the modern ASD8 drive unit around 1980. They are very similar in size.
Parts are available for most of the Arnesons. The CV's are hard to source as the original manufacturer wen BK back in the 80's
Hi.
Please let me make myself clear, I am in no way casting dispersion on these drives, they are a very well made and capable system even if it has be superseded by newer models, I can't fault the quality of the components or the quality of the construction, design or performance.
All the issues I discovered when they were given to me to fit were down to the previous owner, they had been run to death with obviously no maintenance and very little mechanical understanding, my comments were intended as a warning of what someone may find when purchasing secondhand units if they do not choose wisely.
As far as the CV's go I left it up to the client to source them as he had purchased them in the first place (I had my hand full just trying to put them right :) I'm not entirely sure where the new replacements came from, the west coast I think, but they fitted and worked perfectly with full rotation at maximum angles , no clunks, dings or sticking, just smooth clean rotation in all directions.
Regards, Steve.
No problem. The drives are fairly bullet proof and these very early ones have some differences that we have addressed over the years and made improvements to.
If anyone needs parts or sales, they contact www.arnesonmarine.com
If you need anything in the future give us a call
For sale if you need them Arneson ASD1200 pair straight drives ( not drop box ) #10 fronts with #8 back halfs. this was a special order for Cigarette boats. Two sets of props, Rollas 18x25 and Stainless clever 16 3/4 x 26 all stuff is 25 spline. Props are clean no marks. Boat was parted out. 734 558 3329 fresh water GL drives discolored but no corrosion.
wHILE WORKING WITH gear boxes on outboards and I/O's , many things could cause this. One being yes oil displacement with water, looks like milk when inspected. I/O's require engine setup to be at 90 degree to the top gear box. engine sunk lower in bilge to meet specifications, like a car transmission to rear wheel drive shaft. constant velocity shaft, if not tight with locking nut could cause vibration problems. getting the L/R drive shafts reversed. R counter-clock prop L clock-wise.
Stephen I have found myself in a similar situation as you have shared with us. I would like to know how you repaired or what was your replacement source for the thrust ball.
Respectfully
Scott
Hello Scott.
I hope the one/ones you have are in better condition than the ones i had to deal with.
As far as repairs go, the CV joints had to be rplaced, check for hot-spotting or scoring on the bearing retainer and the bearings, you can't fix these.
Check the main shaft where the seals are and look to see if they are scored, they can be tig welded and turned back to spec if you are careful.
When it comes to the drive ball - take some 800 grit wet and dry emery paper (wet) go over the whole surface of the ball by hand, this will highlight the "dings" and scores, with careful application of flux and LIGHT heat, being extra careful not overheat one area you can use silver solder to fill the low spots, after that its a simple thing to take it back to something close to what it should have been using various grades of wet and dry, finishing with a 1200 grit, because silver solder is softer than the brass it rubbs back easily, and even if the ball isn't point perfectly spherical after you have finished it will be close enough because the large water/oil seal "O" ring under the swivel retainer should cover any slight deformities, (that is as long as the ball is still spherical to start with,) I checked the ones I had using a lathe and a dial gauge.
Hope this will help.
Best regards. Steve.
ps,
Don't forget to use the correct thread locker when you put it back together ;)
Not much different from failed cv joints on a car. The usual cause there is the seal or boot failing - once that happens it's on borrowed time.
Hey thank you for the video. Who did you contact for another CV?
Hello
I am sorry to say that I cannot tell you where the replacement CV's were sourced from, I left it to the client to replace them as my time was limited, but there may be some information you could find of use in a communication I received from Arneson Industries about a year ago, please read their post and my reply below.
I hope this will be of some help to you. Regards, Steve.
Wow... thanks for the vid..... used high performance drive..... hummm..... maybe not.... but good experience for repairing!!!!
Thank's for the comment Sing, nothing wrong with used Arneson drives if you choose wisely.
I recommend them as a unit, if they are looked after they will do exactly what it says on the tin, just have to know what you are buying, if it/they need rebuilding - pay accordingly.
Arneson is a good Surface Drives. Very inspiring and the only drawback is just it is too expensive and to complicated in engineering design....
Do you want a Simple Design Surface Drives that is just simply more affordable BUT more efficient...
Check us out at
www.ecosurface drives.com