Every time I think high technology is required for advancement, something literally dirt cheap and simple blows me away. It seems obvious now that the economy IS built to keep us poor.
Yes it’s a little irritating but I choose 3 years ago to stop relying on the system and started building my own sustainability. I will be do the sand battery project more over winter.
@@NewLightEnergy Hi there, greetings from farther away, so sorry for my bad english.. Though I saw a lot of videos on this issue (sand battery) no one draws any conclusions to come up with a front-end method. Besides this, people barely answer to questions or talk to one another. I have some questions for you if you kindly care to give an opinion: [1] the output neede to heat a room say (4 by 4 m) would require a minimum of 1200 kw in the winter time, average winter temps. Could be triple in harsh weather (45 degrees paralel globe zone). What is the similar output in sand battery, how big to equal 1200 kw? [2] Howcome sand is better than other things like sand+coal or fire bricks or a cooper radiator? Sand is kind of similar to salt in retainig heat. Could last heated for around 2-3 hours I guess to really contribute to heating. [3] In winter whean you really need heating, solar pannels dont work in early afternoon, so your solution for night time would be what? [4] now a very important question for me is how on can use a direct link between solar pannel and a sand battery, without burning the pannel? I saw methods of conecting PTC ceramic in a direct link, so either way, the point is, what is thereal output resulting from a pannel heating a bucket of sand? How much the temp rises inside of 16 sq. m. room? An keep note that heating the room from 5 Celsius and up differs from heating in from 13 Celsius up or even hiegher (I say this because some used the argument that in 2 hours temp got up to 18 or 22 Celsius, but they started from 13 or 17 Celsius).
@@romaif8137 these are great questions that I don’t have the answers to yet. I plan to work on developing a viable sand battery with more testing over this winter season. You’re 2 question. I would personally stay away from salt for the corrosive nature of it. Coal most likely has a lower combustion temperature. When heated high enough sand would melt into a glass substance but does not combust. I believe it’s up at the 1700 degree temp range. I plan on using a metal bin that is insulated so I can control the release of the heat through piping or a mounted radiating fin system, not sure yet.
A Non-Ideal Parallel Circuit If you build an earth battery using tap water, aluminum, and carbon, you will produce the cheapest green volts in the world. I discovered that if you wire a solar panel to the earth battery in parallel you can use the high voltage of your earth battery and the superior amperage of your solar panel. Massive wattage can be generated with this idea.
earth battery has a 100% disipation yeild! so NO this doesn't work as has been prooven the ONLY way you can utilize earth* is by confining it's salt minerals ie, ( with in an insulated housing) only then can you apply earth* to energy. also, because the minerals salt/carbon are super low in yeild and the fact that water disipates energy much faster than that of a mineral like salt these batteries are super inefficient. :)
questions? WHY is your sand WET? (liquids disipate heat at a higher rate) are you using local store bought sands or local beach sand (unrefined) if so these are no good for sand batteries.. also, you do realise that in order to use this method the sand/salt must be refined to a high grade meaning, it naturally accepts conduction and retains overall heat for longer. because sands like beach and store are unrefined ( removed of ALL inhibited materials/minerals ) you can't successfully use them. :/ take note prior to your next test! carbon activates at upto 1200c salt has a melting point of 800c optimal heat entrapment is 600c based on a 1/4 part carbon to salt base. :) do not use commercial sands nor sand from your local beach (unless you spend time to refine it to its 2 fundamental minerals.
i live in north idaho...where the temperature is low in winter...and little sunshine. so i don't think this energy storage method will work for me completely. however, my LFP batteries for the solar system need to be kept warm so I'm thinking of using a sand battery with solar and with grid power to keep them warm. i would use grid power for hours between 2am and 8am. if i have sunshine the rest of the time, then solar. a copper pipe system for moving air to the insulated battery box with a valve might do when i need it.
Yes that is my plan as well. I’m up on the 53 parallel. I really need to put up more of my video of the solar shed we’ve built and how I’m planning for a insulated box with metal inner lining to contain the sand, then to have it simply radiate the heat in the shed. I like the copper pipe for moving the warm air idea. Insulation on the pipe would be critical so you don’t lose to radiant heat. Also having a slow moving air flow. I will be doing more with the sand project come early winter as we are still working on the solar build.
It is a standard 240v water heater. I fed the 41VDC solar panel directly to it although mistakenly through a 120v ac light switch which I later studied up more and realized that dc can jump the gap of ac switches/disconnects. Now I know to only use dc disconnects. Fortunately everything worked out fine in that simple test. I had very impressive results for such a basic and unrefined build. The pales of heated sand without element went into our chicken coop and provided some overnight residual heat which in turn reduced our electric heaters demand. I plan on doing a larger system to focus the heat under the laying boxes to keep the eggs warmer longer. We reduced the minimum temp in our coop this winter to 2-3c. Last year we kept in up at 10c.
@@NewLightEnergy Thanks for your detailed rely. I've been playing with solar power on PTC heating elements in a metal paint pale of decorative river rocks from Loew's. Anxious to try water heater elements . Would a knife switch be safer ?
@@jimgresham5529 it should be fine yes. The faster the switching speed along with proper gap size are the 2 important factors to not get an arc. The spring loaded DC switches are best. That’s pretty cool what you’ve created so far.
Does the element show burn out marks. Say the wall outlet gave 10amps to the element times the 120Volts then the element recieved 1200watts. If it couldn’t dissipate the heat quickly enough it may have burned it out. My solar panel gave 51Vx10amp max so only 500W. The element can easily dissipate the heat in water, this sand thing is going to take some trial and error. I also burnt out my first element because it had a nick in the coating of the rod.
Every time I think high technology is required for advancement, something literally dirt cheap and simple blows me away. It seems obvious now that the economy IS built to keep us poor.
Yes it’s a little irritating but I choose 3 years ago to stop relying on the system and started building my own sustainability. I will be do the sand battery project more over winter.
It appears to me during winter I can heat up beach sand with the help of solar system and enjoy slow & steady heat waves at night 😉
Yes and this isn’t even insulated to maintain the heat storage for a long term slow release time.
@@NewLightEnergy Hi there, greetings from farther away, so sorry for my bad english.. Though I saw a lot of videos on this issue (sand battery) no one draws any conclusions to come up with a front-end method. Besides this, people barely answer to questions or talk to one another. I have some questions for you if you kindly care to give an opinion: [1] the output neede to heat a room say (4 by 4 m) would require a minimum of 1200 kw in the winter time, average winter temps. Could be triple in harsh weather (45 degrees paralel globe zone). What is the similar output in sand battery, how big to equal 1200 kw? [2] Howcome sand is better than other things like sand+coal or fire bricks or a cooper radiator? Sand is kind of similar to salt in retainig heat. Could last heated for around 2-3 hours I guess to really contribute to heating. [3] In winter whean you really need heating, solar pannels dont work in early afternoon, so your solution for night time would be what? [4] now a very important question for me is how on can use a direct link between solar pannel and a sand battery, without burning the pannel? I saw methods of conecting PTC ceramic in a direct link, so either way, the point is, what is thereal output resulting from a pannel heating a bucket of sand? How much the temp rises inside of 16 sq. m. room? An keep note that heating the room from 5 Celsius and up differs from heating in from 13 Celsius up or even hiegher (I say this because some used the argument that in 2 hours temp got up to 18 or 22 Celsius, but they started from 13 or 17 Celsius).
@@romaif8137 these are great questions that I don’t have the answers to yet. I plan to work on developing a viable sand battery with more testing over this winter season.
You’re 2 question. I would personally stay away from salt for the corrosive nature of it. Coal most likely has a lower combustion temperature. When heated high enough sand would melt into a glass substance but does not combust. I believe it’s up at the 1700 degree temp range. I plan on using a metal bin that is insulated so I can control the release of the heat through piping or a mounted radiating fin system, not sure yet.
A Non-Ideal Parallel Circuit
If you build an earth battery using tap water, aluminum, and carbon, you will produce the cheapest green volts in the world. I discovered that if you wire a solar panel to the earth battery in parallel you can use the high voltage of your earth battery and the superior amperage of your solar panel. Massive wattage can be generated with this idea.
earth battery has a 100% disipation yeild! so NO this doesn't work as has been prooven the ONLY way you can utilize earth* is by confining it's salt minerals ie, ( with in an insulated housing)
only then can you apply earth* to energy.
also, because the minerals salt/carbon are super low in yeild and the fact that water disipates energy much faster than that of a mineral like salt these batteries are super inefficient.
:)
IF the earth battery was efficient the whole planet wouldn't be such a shitty place for mankind lol that's just science fact pal XD
questions?
WHY is your sand WET? (liquids disipate heat at a higher rate)
are you using local store bought sands or local beach sand (unrefined) if so these are no good for sand batteries..
also,
you do realise that in order to use this method the sand/salt must be refined to a high grade meaning, it naturally accepts conduction and retains overall heat for longer. because sands like beach and store are unrefined ( removed of ALL inhibited materials/minerals ) you can't successfully use them. :/
take note prior to your next test!
carbon activates at upto 1200c
salt has a melting point of 800c
optimal heat entrapment is 600c based on a 1/4 part carbon to salt base.
:)
do not use commercial sands nor sand from your local beach (unless you spend time to refine it to its 2 fundamental minerals.
i live in north idaho...where the temperature is low in winter...and little sunshine. so i don't think this energy storage method will work for me completely. however, my LFP batteries for the solar system need to be kept warm so I'm thinking of using a sand battery with solar and with grid power to keep them warm. i would use grid power for hours between 2am and 8am. if i have sunshine the rest of the time, then solar. a copper pipe system for moving air to the insulated battery box with a valve might do when i need it.
Yes that is my plan as well. I’m up on the 53 parallel. I really need to put up more of my video of the solar shed we’ve built and how I’m planning for a insulated box with metal inner lining to contain the sand, then to have it simply radiate the heat in the shed. I like the copper pipe for moving the warm air idea. Insulation on the pipe would be critical so you don’t lose to radiant heat. Also having a slow moving air flow.
I will be doing more with the sand project come early winter as we are still working on the solar build.
Is that heating element for a water heater ? 240 volt normally ? Are you feeding the element directly from the solar panel ?
It is a standard 240v water heater. I fed the 41VDC solar panel directly to it although mistakenly through a 120v ac light switch which I later studied up more and realized that dc can jump the gap of ac switches/disconnects. Now I know to only use dc disconnects. Fortunately everything worked out fine in that simple test. I had very impressive results for such a basic and unrefined build. The pales of heated sand without element went into our chicken coop and provided some overnight residual heat which in turn reduced our electric heaters demand. I plan on doing a larger system to focus the heat under the laying boxes to keep the eggs warmer longer. We reduced the minimum temp in our coop this winter to 2-3c. Last year we kept in up at 10c.
@@NewLightEnergy Thanks for your detailed rely. I've been playing with solar power on PTC heating elements in a metal paint pale of decorative river rocks from Loew's. Anxious to try water heater elements . Would a knife switch be safer ?
@@jimgresham5529 it should be fine yes. The faster the switching speed along with proper gap size are the 2 important factors to not get an arc. The spring loaded DC switches are best. That’s pretty cool what you’ve created so far.
Thanks, been playing around with solar stuff.
1
I tried this and after about 20 minutes my heater element stopped working..it's was brand new...
How were you powering the element?
@NewLightEnergy I hooked it up to an extension cord to plug into wall outlet...wanted to test it that way before going solar..
Does the element show burn out marks. Say the wall outlet gave 10amps to the element times the 120Volts then the element recieved 1200watts. If it couldn’t dissipate the heat quickly enough it may have burned it out. My solar panel gave 51Vx10amp max so only 500W. The element can easily dissipate the heat in water, this sand thing is going to take some trial and error. I also burnt out my first element because it had a nick in the coating of the rod.
A rheostat would help to control the wattage output.
@NewLightEnergy ok thanks....