Thanks for your videos. Very informative. Question: Can one attach upinor (in floor pex) to the under slab spray foam and lay rebar after? In Florida we are supposed to lift the rebar up during the pour. So we put rebar (usually fiberglass rebar) on top of pex. Thanks again for sharing all of your knowledge!
I have been following you advice for my new home build. I can not thank you enough! I even did a 4" spray under my concrete slab. My one question is that if I lay down flooring. Its a concrete composite flooring that looks like wood (McMillan SPC water proof flooring). They sent a plastic sheet as they said its a vapor barrier. The flooring has a nice pad attached to it, but I was wondering if you think the plastic sheeting would be necessary between the flooring and slab. Is the closed cell 4" a vapor barrier?
A few weeks ago, I saw one of Matt Risinger’s interview with a northern builder/contractor showing the under slab spray foam. Very cool and interesting.
@@SprayJones Exactly why would you need to remove radon from under the FOAM layered sealed slab? Just a question. Seems like that would negate needing to evacuate radioactive air from under the slab.
What about spraying under the edges of an existing slab? Edges of finishes slab near windows or walls are MUCH colder on the feet than the middle of the room.
To help absorb this video, ask yourself a question about your home or business: where's the frost line? Your structure is sitting on one giant heat sink come winter, and the speed with which heat is transferred is proportional to the temperature differential - that's the way thermal efficiency goes, so take note of materials used when building. You never really stop heat transfer by the way, but you can slow it down to a crawl.
Cool video, love these and watch every single one of them. Your channel inspired me to do a full spray on my new house, everywhere, including under slab (slab-on-grade with hydronic heating). It's not cheap by any means, but it just makes so much sense. I am doing conditioned attic as well, so it will be a fully tight envelope like a spray foam cave :D
@sprayjones, so we spray the layed down stone floor as u shown and if it's not 100% all foam sadly, we spray an inch , 1ft to 16 inches up the wall as well. I am just curious on your opinion on this if you would be kind enough to answer me.
Was planning to use Stego PANGO WRAP for a vapor & Termite barrier with Termistop mesh around all protrusions....buuut...I wonder if this closed cell spray foam would be a termite barrier. If so this would be a better solution as I would get some therm benefits too.
Good video, but most radon systems are passive, they don't use a fan, just exit to open air. A fan is only added in cases where the radon tests high. Looking forward to your video on insects - insects nest in foam even in colder climates like Michigan. Love the info on a structural slab, haven't seen this in anyone else's video. Thanks.
@@pampierce and yes ive pulled open and closed cell out of homes. Far cleaner than batt. The closed cell never has bugs in the stuff ive seen. Ive never even seen bugs in open cell now that i think about it.
@@whipporwill2303 Yes, the older houses let a lot of air in, and fiberglass and rockwool are like a furnace filter, and get dirty like a furnace filter would in the old leaky homes, and then lose R value. I've also seen some homes where the insulation was like new, and very well installed, just not much of it since they didn't know to fill the cavity back in the 1940's. And I've seen older homes where they added foam at a later date and the foam shrunk near the wood, letting air in around it and there was very little they could do to fix it. But this video is talking about EXTERIOR insulation, not interior to the house. I'm looking forward to the video on NEW houses with exterior insulation. Insects is a bigger concern on the exterior of the home, hopefully not as much on the interior, especially in the newer houses with low air infiltration. Foam has its place. But I love the inert, chemical-free, and fire-resistant properties of mineral wool, even when insects are not a consideration.
Would it be reasonable to do 2inches of spray foam and then say two inches of XPS on top of the spray foam? Might be the best balance of benefits of spray and more thermal performance for in slab heating
Thanks again Mike for putting this out. We have been doing this for some time as well in residential applications, and it’s slowly picking up traction in livestock operations where internal environmental control is critical. In these applications SPF contributes a huge edge on every level from stable ventilation, temperature and humidity control, to long term energy savings. I agree with you that under slab is becoming mainstream because it’s happening already in many rural applications. It’s worth reiterating that concrete will continuously wick moisture through from underneath and the effectiveness of conventional methods dealing with this is short lived as best. Nothing deals with moisture wicking through concrete like SPF. I’m looking forward to your termites video as this is always a major point for new poultry operation construction. Cheers!
Very cool. That makes all kinds of sense. The load transfer from the concrete to the structural fill would be way better. What's the compressive strength of this stuff? They build entire overpasses on top of structural foam.
In searching your videos I can't find if you answer the question of using spray foam in a steel framed pole building. It seems to me that you would have to spray the entire steel beam system to not have a condensation problem. Would this be true?
@@SprayJones those all look like wood framed steel skinned buildings except the quanset style that does not use steel beams. I have a builder who wants to put up a steel framed building for me and I am concerned about the steel beams radiating the cold into the building thru the steel.
I'm having 3" on walls & ceiling but am seriously considering this for the slab vs 2" EPS. So...1.5"-2" of CCSF? Any updates specifically & detailing with radiant (PEX) heat? Also wondering about breeching it via the pex pipe staples? Thx
Isn't there some concern with OSB on the ground? Maybe I'm missing something, but that doesn't make sense to me. Otherwise, another fantastic presentation.
@@SprayJones I agree with your statement about the importance of the envelope. However, there is a point with exponential price increases where cost becomes the limiting factor for a broader group of people. I understand that's just where we're at now as the cost of materials increases along with the cost of just about everything else...just bemoaning the fact.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing! So the cardboard and osb underslab framework is just allowed to degrade over time resulting in suspension/cantilevering of the floor? I'm assuming the SPF adheres to the concrete floor and will not fall? Thanks
I told a guy once that bought a 100K building package that the SPF was worth more than his building because we are the building. The envelope is the single most important issue besides structural integrity.
@@SprayJones Great. Thanks. Didn't know if there is an issue with the spray foam being too hot. Looking forward to your video on underslab SF and termites.
Great video!! We are in Hawaii with lava boulders. I want to build a natural pool but keep the stones in place. Thoughts on spray foaming the area of pool and then pouring concrete? Will the concrete slide down sides faster bc of spray foam? I’m thinking it’s a great way to create a water tight bond w stones and prevent leaking if the concrete cracks…
You are correct that the SPF will be necessary for sealing and creating a transition between jagged rocks and the finishing products. I would use closed cell 3 -4" to get things sealed.
Uneven depth of slab can lead to cracking so that needs to be figured out. Also why hire a specialist to spray when unskilled labor can lay cut and fit sheet goods over 15 mil poly? Not saying it is a bad idea but much easier cost effective ways to do this already exist.
I would like just a fun pop science video where you just put a block of closed cell + open cell spray foam side by side and weigh them / test how much weight they can carry before squishing / light them on fire and see how long they each burn / light a torch on one side to test insulation properties / freeze them / etc. The purpose of that beyond being very fun would give a better idea of what this stuff really is.
Excellent video and informative. We are moving to Portugal and will be building a home there and want to utilize a system like this. My question for residential is: do you have any off-gases, smells of any sort?
I flash coat the Gravel with a quick mist let it harden and then put the 2 inch pass. helps it stop from the Gravel rising with the foam. Love your videos you're very knowledgeable keep it up.
There are cheaper ways to deal with soil gases and why, for both heating and cooling, would you want to cut yourself off from the constant ground temperature?
Cheaper ways.... have at it, we deal with people who are looking for a better way who have tried it the "cheaper way" Ground temp?? You don't know what you are talking about.
@@SprayJones I actually do know what I am talking about. Depending on area of the country, the constant ground temp of 55 to 60 degrees can act as a great starting point for either heating or cooling. When you cut the house off with insulation you have to heat or cool the house from ambient. In Syracuse that could be a difference 100°F (-3- to +70) in winter or in Texas as much as 35°F (+105 to +70) in summer. In contact with the ground, you only have to go from 55°F to +70°F in winter in Syracuse, and 55°F to 70°F in summer in Texas. This all of course, depends on how well the envelope is insulated and air sealed. I have built houses with this approach, and I assure you it works, and are also radon free.
@@CharlesBuell So what is the ground temperature of Minnesota 2' down in January? The video applies to those who need insulation against low ground temp, isn't that self evident? I am not applying this to Mexico...
I build my own shop last year no infloor heat but put down about 1.25” under slab 4” on wall and ceiling Heating it with a Osburn 3300 woodstove only, 10c no problem. 36x50x16
Being a concrete finsher I am just wondering. How consistent is the height for like figuring out the concrete amount. When we grade were about with in a 1/4 inch
@@SprayJones found the Versifoam website and dealers in WI. Looks like 2.3x the cost of 1” foam board. I ll try it around edges of foundation and foam board.
dude, I don't mean this with animus, however you take people to school with your explanations. (I won't hold the Canadian thing against you as lone as you don't hold the American thing against me?) Great video as always.
@@SprayJones Umm thought it was pretty plain. But you are so intelligent on the details of your videos, it is like you are a teacher in spray foam scientific. I hope that clarifies my comment for you. Once again the general jest is good video.
@@rtheprizeisright7323 Thank you Ron. Your disclaimer is what threw me off. I appreciate the kind and encouraging words. I get a lot the other way too.
That comment is so vague and pointless: Where? When, What chemistry, Under what conditions? Why would the building code list it as a product? Why would ULC write a master standard for it? Why would suppliers issue warranty for it? Why have I been spraying it for 17 years? Why has it been used over the New Orleans Super Dome since the 1970s?
I am building an ICF with an unfinished crawl space. Obviously there is gravel on the ground and I was debating whether to do an air seal (isolate the bottom of the floor rafters (I-joists)) or isolate/seal the ground for the radon and temperature control. Thank you for sharing this information!
Cover the floor. This is code here, you cannot leave the soil exposed. Watch the video I have "in contact with ground" see the second half on CS encapsulation.
Would 2.8lb roofing foam be acceptable under a heated shop slab? Also, my engineer detailed a 10mil VB under the foam..necessary? Thanks for the videos, Great info!!
Foam does not stick to poly, we don't use poly with poly. Engineers are woefully ignorant on this product which casts a dark shadow on the validity of their profession.
@@SprayJones i concur! What are your thoughts on the 2.8lb roof foam under slab? I ask because i have some on hand and it would seem that it would be well suited for this application due to its density.
It is affordable when you connect with what you are getting for life. My foundation on our house was 80K. I didn't wish that it was 20K. People have to get their minds around proper must-have expenses. Or build smaller...
@@SprayJones while i agree that the cost savings over time do add up, there are just too many options that are much much more cost effective and still do a very similar job. i wish it was more affordable, more competetive to the rest of the insulation market i.e. fiberglass and stonewool/rockwool. even the price difference from open to closed cell foam is a lot.
@@leedeveau3884 this is wrong, mostly because you cannot get proper equipment for a 2 part closed cell foam application. you need the heated lines and gun and the pump system. the two bottles systems you see out there are DIY and they are DIY for a reason. it is no where near the same application as a professional job with the professional equipment to do the job. then you also put all the responsibilities on yourself, so if you did something wrong, (DIY) then it's on you to pay for all of the repairs too, being that your aren't a pro if you are using these kits, you are likely to make some mistakes. also look at how the foam comes out of those 2 tank systems, it's already foam when it hits the surface, meaning it doesn't always "wet" the surface. it needs to so that it can stick. you'll see this problem a lot with the 2 tank system.
I found the radon details interesting. As I think about it, I would not want one piece of plumbing passing through the structure on a basement floor - keep it all 100% outside. This is a system that except for a home sale [maybe] will never ever be inspected. If there is a plumbing break, the house gets turned into a dedicated radon collection facility - that's worse than doing nothing. Plus... a penetration in the slab is an extra point for moisture ingress.
What if years down the road the cement cracks and then there a water leak (washing machine, hot water heater, pipe break, etc) the water would pool under the slab and have no way to dry. Maybe even heave the concrete.
Wow, you must be bored to come on here and start inventing hypothetical scenarios.... So what would you do with a regular insulation job or a mandatory sealed air barrier?
@@SprayJones was a serious question something that has a very likely to occur in the future. Don't get me wrong I like spray foam just under the slab scares me for this reason
Thoughts on laying 2" rigid down and spraying over the top of that? Could see this being an effective cost for performance solution in cases you want to build up to 4+ inches of insulation, but also want to avoid seams and ensure air and moisture barrier is continuous.
@@SprayJones Good to know. I know your plenty rigid but I was just curious as to my understanding 2" XPS 4x8 sheets are probably close to half the price per linear foot in the case of a home owner or builder doing things themselves, but if it doesn't work its as simple as that.
![ผัวเถื่อน - ยูริ โตเกียวมิวสิค [ OFFICIAL MUSIC VIDEO ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/P08ORRVDGl8/mqdefault.jpg)
![เปิดบ้าน พี่ตูน Bodyslam หลังใหม่คนแรก ที่ภูเก็ต l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/flFwcmyDQSk/mqdefault.jpg)
Looking forward to the bugs & critters nesting in the foam video. That's my biggest concern with foam.
Thanks for all.your videos.. I do find them quite helpful..even as just refreshing my memory.. thank u
Glad you like them!
Thanks for your videos. Very informative. Question: Can one attach upinor (in floor pex) to the under slab spray foam and lay rebar after? In Florida we are supposed to lift the rebar up during the pour. So we put rebar (usually fiberglass rebar) on top of pex. Thanks again for sharing all of your knowledge!
Yes they sell clips to hold piping in foam insulation that will work with SPF. They are barbed.
I have been following you advice for my new home build. I can not thank you enough! I even did a 4" spray under my concrete slab. My one question is that if I lay down flooring. Its a concrete composite flooring that looks like wood (McMillan SPC water proof flooring). They sent a plastic sheet as they said its a vapor barrier. The flooring has a nice pad attached to it, but I was wondering if you think the plastic sheeting would be necessary between the flooring and slab. Is the closed cell 4" a vapor barrier?
A few weeks ago, I saw one of Matt Risinger’s interview with a northern builder/contractor showing the under slab spray foam. Very cool and interesting.
Thanks
@@SprayJones Exactly why would you need to remove radon from under the FOAM layered sealed slab? Just a question. Seems like that would negate needing to evacuate radioactive air from under the slab.
What about termites eating through the foam or the osb under the foam you show halfway through the clip?
I would like to know what the insulation factor is on that and if it is a money saver is it really necessary does the cost of the installation justify
Talk with someone local to you.
Surprised you didn’t mention spraying under swimming pool installs.
Next video...
What about spraying under the edges of an existing slab? Edges of finishes slab near windows or walls are MUCH colder on the feet than the middle of the room.
@SprayJones I cannot find the video you mention at the end about bugs and critters. Did you ever make one about that?
Not yet...
@@SprayJones a timeframe when you will?
To help absorb this video, ask yourself a question about your home or business: where's the frost line? Your structure is sitting on one giant heat sink come winter, and the speed with which heat is transferred is proportional to the temperature differential - that's the way thermal efficiency goes, so take note of materials used when building. You never really stop heat transfer by the way, but you can slow it down to a crawl.
Correct
Cool video, love these and watch every single one of them. Your channel inspired me to do a full spray on my new house, everywhere, including under slab (slab-on-grade with hydronic heating). It's not cheap by any means, but it just makes so much sense. I am doing conditioned attic as well, so it will be a fully tight envelope like a spray foam cave :D
That is awesome!
@sprayjones, so we spray the layed down stone floor as u shown and if it's not 100% all foam sadly, we spray an inch , 1ft to 16 inches up the wall as well. I am just curious on your opinion on this if you would be kind enough to answer me.
Was planning to use Stego PANGO WRAP for a vapor & Termite barrier with Termistop mesh around all protrusions....buuut...I wonder if this closed cell spray foam would be a termite barrier. If so this would be a better solution as I would get some therm benefits too.
ok cool. Just got to the end of the video where you talk about doing a comprehensive video on the "ctitters". Looking forward to it.
Good video, but most radon systems are passive, they don't use a fan, just exit to open air. A fan is only added in cases where the radon tests high. Looking forward to your video on insects - insects nest in foam even in colder climates like Michigan. Love the info on a structural slab, haven't seen this in anyone else's video. Thanks.
Insects nest in foam.. have you ever pulled batt insulation out of a 20 year old house? 😁
@@whipporwill2303 Actually, I have, multiple homes. Have you ever pulled foam out of a home that is less than 5 years old?
@@pampierce yes I am a real-estate investor with over 20 doors. I also own a spray foam company. Take a wild guess what insulation i have in my home?
@@pampierce and yes ive pulled open and closed cell out of homes. Far cleaner than batt. The closed cell never has bugs in the stuff ive seen. Ive never even seen bugs in open cell now that i think about it.
@@whipporwill2303 Yes, the older houses let a lot of air in, and fiberglass and rockwool are like a furnace filter, and get dirty like a furnace filter would in the old leaky homes, and then lose R value. I've also seen some homes where the insulation was like new, and very well installed, just not much of it since they didn't know to fill the cavity back in the 1940's. And I've seen older homes where they added foam at a later date and the foam shrunk near the wood, letting air in around it and there was very little they could do to fix it. But this video is talking about EXTERIOR insulation, not interior to the house. I'm looking forward to the video on NEW houses with exterior insulation. Insects is a bigger concern on the exterior of the home, hopefully not as much on the interior, especially in the newer houses with low air infiltration. Foam has its place. But I love the inert, chemical-free, and fire-resistant properties of mineral wool, even when insects are not a consideration.
Would it be reasonable to do 2inches of spray foam and then say two inches of XPS on top of the spray foam? Might be the best balance of benefits of spray and more thermal performance for in slab heating
No. Lifts the rigid off the ground.
Thanks again Mike for putting this out. We have been doing this for some time as well in residential applications, and it’s slowly picking up traction in livestock operations where internal environmental control is critical. In these applications SPF contributes a huge edge on every level from stable ventilation, temperature and humidity control, to long term energy savings.
I agree with you that under slab is becoming mainstream because it’s happening already in many rural applications.
It’s worth reiterating that concrete will continuously wick moisture through from underneath and the effectiveness of conventional methods dealing with this is short lived as best. Nothing deals with moisture wicking through concrete like SPF.
I’m looking forward to your termites video as this is always a major point for new poultry operation construction. Cheers!
I agree 1000%
so, if the footing is not insulated capillary action with suck up moisture into whole slab, same with heat transfer.
Footings will receive a waterproofing.
This is not an exhaustive 4 hour how-to video...
Very cool. That makes all kinds of sense. The load transfer from the concrete to the structural fill would be way better. What's the compressive strength of this stuff? They build entire overpasses on top of structural foam.
Is there no need for plastic sheeting (you know 6 to 10 mil) underneath the spray foam or between the foam and poured concrete?
No plastic with plastic...
In searching your videos I can't find if you answer the question of using spray foam in a steel framed pole building. It seems to me that you would have to spray the entire steel beam system to not have a condensation problem. Would this be true?
Playlist dedicated to metal buildings....
@@SprayJones those all look like wood framed steel skinned buildings except the quanset style that does not use steel beams. I have a builder who wants to put up a steel framed building for me and I am concerned about the steel beams radiating the cold into the building thru the steel.
Can the in floor heat tube be installed to the close cell foam directly.
Yes it can with barbed clips
What is the Cost Factor per sq ft?
This is nothing new. Been putting 2-3" foam board under labs for 15 years.
Congrats.... it's new to those who don't know.
interesting , Thank You .
Glad you enjoyed it
If the foam is sealed why are you sucking radon from under the sealed foam slab? You would not need radon evacuation in that diagram you show.
We aren't what are you watching?
Great video.. But I’m kinda confused with this void form cardboard and OSB, under the slab now; is it supposed to just deteriorate and rott away?
Yup. It's job is over once the concrete is poured.
Bugs/spiders... u say.. purple dots/circles in random.places....well, the more u see in random places the more you have.. roflmmfao
I'm having 3" on walls & ceiling but am seriously considering this for the slab vs 2" EPS. So...1.5"-2" of CCSF?
Any updates specifically & detailing with radiant (PEX) heat? Also wondering about breeching it via the pex pipe staples? Thx
Isn't there some concern with OSB on the ground? Maybe I'm missing something, but that doesn't make sense to me. Otherwise, another fantastic presentation.
It is merely a method to facilitate getting the spray foam down under various conditions. Nothing more.
I've been planning on this approach but thinking twice now that SPF cost has increased 2.5x over the past two years. 🤦♂️
So cost is all that is stopping you? Envelope is THE most important thing after structure.
@@SprayJones I agree with your statement about the importance of the envelope. However, there is a point with exponential price increases where cost becomes the limiting factor for a broader group of people. I understand that's just where we're at now as the cost of materials increases along with the cost of just about everything else...just bemoaning the fact.
These videos are very informative! I really appreciate your passion for this product and excellence. It’s hard to argue with facts.
I appreciate that!
Very interesting, thanks for sharing! So the cardboard and osb underslab framework is just allowed to degrade over time resulting in suspension/cantilevering of the floor? I'm assuming the SPF adheres to the concrete floor and will not fall? Thanks
Was this before the price of OSB went thru the roof?
I was just asking about creatures, but will wait for the video...
What is the point of the void between plywood and soil? Is that air space going to cause problems?
It is a structural slab floor, the whole point is a void so no earth heaves against the slab.
Hahaha.. cost? Building $40k, slab, $30k
Spray foam $90k
I told a guy once that bought a 100K building package that the SPF was worth more than his building because we are the building.
The envelope is the single most important issue besides structural integrity.
Was hoping I could get an answer to a question. Can you spray closed cell on XPS. Specifically the walls of an ICF?
On ICF? Yes you can.
@@SprayJones Great. Thanks. Didn't know if there is an issue with the spray foam being too hot. Looking forward to your video on underslab SF and termites.
Great video!! We are in Hawaii with lava boulders. I want to build a natural pool but keep the stones in place. Thoughts on spray foaming the area of pool and then pouring concrete? Will the concrete slide down sides faster bc of spray foam? I’m thinking it’s a great way to create a water tight bond w stones and prevent leaking if the concrete cracks…
You are correct that the SPF will be necessary for sealing and creating a transition between jagged rocks and the finishing products. I would use closed cell 3 -4" to get things sealed.
What is the best kind of rock to spray foam? And which ones should I avoid?
The crushed stone that you're putting down under the slab and spraying, what is the approximate depth?
4" I think the builder does.
@@SprayJones Thank you!
I’m sold , I’m in love with the product. Definitely want to do this on my next build. Wished you were around northern Indiana.
Uneven depth of slab can lead to cracking so that needs to be figured out. Also why hire a specialist to spray when unskilled labor can lay cut and fit sheet goods over 15 mil poly? Not saying it is a bad idea but much easier cost effective ways to do this already exist.
Go hard.
I would like just a fun pop science video where you just put a block of closed cell + open cell spray foam side by side and weigh them / test how much weight they can carry before squishing / light them on fire and see how long they each burn / light a torch on one side to test insulation properties / freeze them / etc.
The purpose of that beyond being very fun would give a better idea of what this stuff really is.
Mike, can you spray CC foam onto a dirt floor in a crawlspace? I live in the southern united states and I want foam as my vapor barrier.
Yes. If the dirt is well compacted.
It helps when u walk all over the rocks.. Rofl. :/..
What about 2" of rigid foam and 2" of closed cell foam on top?
Why? Pick one...
Excellent video and informative. We are moving to Portugal and will be building a home there and want to utilize a system like this. My question for residential is: do you have any off-gases, smells of any sort?
Watch the off gassing video.
My question is the foam structurally stone enough to HD the concrete or will the concrete sag and Crack over time
I wish this question was answered...
I flash coat the Gravel with a quick mist let it harden and then put the 2 inch pass. helps it stop from the Gravel rising with the foam. Love your videos you're very knowledgeable keep it up.
Thanks for sharing
You are losing yield by doing a flash pass. But hey its your $$$
There are cheaper ways to deal with soil gases and why, for both heating and cooling, would you want to cut yourself off from the constant ground temperature?
Cheaper ways.... have at it, we deal with people who are looking for a better way who have tried it the "cheaper way"
Ground temp?? You don't know what you are talking about.
@@SprayJones I actually do know what I am talking about. Depending on area of the country, the constant ground temp of 55 to 60 degrees can act as a great starting point for either heating or cooling. When you cut the house off with insulation you have to heat or cool the house from ambient. In Syracuse that could be a difference 100°F (-3- to +70) in winter or in Texas as much as 35°F (+105 to +70) in summer. In contact with the ground, you only have to go from 55°F to +70°F in winter in Syracuse, and 55°F to 70°F in summer in Texas. This all of course, depends on how well the envelope is insulated and air sealed. I have built houses with this approach, and I assure you it works, and are also radon free.
@@CharlesBuell So what is the ground temperature of Minnesota 2' down in January?
The video applies to those who need insulation against low ground temp, isn't that self evident?
I am not applying this to Mexico...
Thanks Mike! Glad you shared this information. Your narrative has loads of common sense in comparison close cell vs ridged foam board.
Insulation is necessary. But I don’t think the expense of spray foam is justified in this situation.
For many it is exactly what they need.... so there that counters your comment.
I build my own shop last year no infloor heat but put down about 1.25” under slab 4” on wall and ceiling Heating it with a Osburn 3300 woodstove only, 10c no problem. 36x50x16
That's right
I have a fairly curious question. Would this be appropriate in a tropical climate?
Of course.
At ground level mice and chipmunks will or will not love living/tunneling in it?
Anything is possible, generally 99% of the time no.
Really like your work here. I have a 1890s double brick house. I'd love to insulate between the bricks. Have a video on that? I'd be grateful.
Watch the video on brick structures and SPF.
Being a concrete finsher I am just wondering. How consistent is the height for like figuring out the concrete amount. When we grade were about with in a 1/4 inch
Around that, sometimes more.
We have worked for some fussy ppl and they have been Ok with the results thus far.
@@SprayJones thank you for the reply very interesting.
Where can I find costs for this type of product? What is its generic name? Are there distributors or manufacturers that sell directly to contractors?
Find a spray foam contractor in your area.
@@SprayJones found the Versifoam website and dealers in WI. Looks like 2.3x the cost of 1” foam board. I ll try it around edges of foundation and foam board.
What are you thoughts on spray foam under a inground gunite pool for insulating purpose's?
No pool installer I have spoken to will allow it. They want no risk for warranty.
dude, I don't mean this with animus, however you take people to school with your explanations. (I won't hold the Canadian thing against you as lone as you don't hold the American thing against me?) Great video as always.
I don't know what you are saying.
@@SprayJones Umm thought it was pretty plain. But you are so intelligent on the details of your videos, it is like you are a teacher in spray foam scientific. I hope that clarifies my comment for you. Once again the general jest is good video.
@@rtheprizeisright7323 Thank you Ron. Your disclaimer is what threw me off.
I appreciate the kind and encouraging words. I get a lot the other way too.
On subfloor: will insects try to bore through closed cell foam? Or most if not all are stopped?
You must have left 3 minutes into the video...
Question what is some one wants to put a four mm vapor barrier down before spray foam?
You do not use poly with poly.
When is the video on insects and rodents coming out? I wish there would be big break thru in the cost of foam
We are there now. Change is on the way.
Idk if you ever seen old foam or old spray foam. It gets weak and deteriorates. Would not trust this at all.
That comment is so vague and pointless:
Where? When, What chemistry, Under what conditions?
Why would the building code list it as a product?
Why would ULC write a master standard for it?
Why would suppliers issue warranty for it?
Why have I been spraying it for 17 years?
Why has it been used over the New Orleans Super Dome since the 1970s?
@@SprayJones you must of never worked on old houses then
@@TheTechGuider What are you doing here? You didn't answer a single question I gave...
@@SprayJones money that's why.
How many inches did you put down here?
Usually 2"
I am building an ICF with an unfinished crawl space. Obviously there is gravel on the ground and I was debating whether to do an air seal (isolate the bottom of the floor rafters (I-joists)) or isolate/seal the ground for the radon and temperature control.
Thank you for sharing this information!
Cover the floor. This is code here, you cannot leave the soil exposed. Watch the video I have "in contact with ground" see the second half on CS encapsulation.
@@SprayJones will do. Thanks for the suggestion!
You may have covered this but how much off gassing is there or for how long does it produce gasses?
Zero VOC in 1 hour. Have a video on that subject
Dont understand how the foam can stick to the concrete when the cardboard has decomposed.
I would like to know that too, why won't the cardboard and wood not rot from ground moisture then?
The concrete sticks to the foam when it is poured. It is reverse.
The card board compresses if / when the ground swells.
@@SprayJones But doesn't just rot away and leave gaps, or it doesn't matter since the columns support the whole slab?
@@safffff1000 The whole idea is to have a gap behind the slab to the earth.
@@SprayJones Hard to see that the concrete can glue the foam in place, without any support from below.
Radon is bunch of bogus…
That may be, but it is code in many areas now.
Hmmmm
I'm not convinced
Those who get it get foam...
This is what I was thinking of doing . Any concerns with doing this along with a ICF basement walls?
None.
Joking
Would 2.8lb roofing foam be acceptable under a heated shop slab? Also, my engineer detailed a 10mil VB under the foam..necessary? Thanks for the videos, Great info!!
Foam does not stick to poly, we don't use poly with poly. Engineers are woefully ignorant on this product which casts a dark shadow on the validity of their profession.
@@SprayJones i concur! What are your thoughts on the 2.8lb roof foam under slab? I ask because i have some on hand and it would seem that it would be well suited for this application due to its density.
@@gerardcaron3284 That is a conversation to be had with the supplier and their technical advisory people.
Thickened Edge also known as “Rat Wall.”
Lol.
i absolutely love the closed cell spray foam. i wish it was more affordable!
It is affordable when you connect with what you are getting for life.
My foundation on our house was 80K. I didn't wish that it was 20K.
People have to get their minds around proper must-have expenses. Or build smaller...
@@SprayJones what is the price of materials per sq ft at depth of 1”?
Do the prep work yourself and the clean up yourself and then it’s cheap and well worth it .
@@SprayJones while i agree that the cost savings over time do add up, there are just too many options that are much much more cost effective and still do a very similar job. i wish it was more affordable, more competetive to the rest of the insulation market i.e. fiberglass and stonewool/rockwool. even the price difference from open to closed cell foam is a lot.
@@leedeveau3884 this is wrong, mostly because you cannot get proper equipment for a 2 part closed cell foam application. you need the heated lines and gun and the pump system. the two bottles systems you see out there are DIY and they are DIY for a reason.
it is no where near the same application as a professional job with the professional equipment to do the job.
then you also put all the responsibilities on yourself, so if you did something wrong, (DIY) then it's on you to pay for all of the repairs too, being that your aren't a pro if you are using these kits, you are likely to make some mistakes.
also look at how the foam comes out of those 2 tank systems, it's already foam when it hits the surface, meaning it doesn't always "wet" the surface. it needs to so that it can stick. you'll see this problem a lot with the 2 tank system.
Future or polluting the earth some more? Got it!
Do us all a favor and become fertilizer for the earth.
Get customer to tamp the stone for a smoother product .
Yup.
Good points.
Glad you enjoyed it
Always great videos!
Glad you like them!
Thank you for watching so many.
Just did a test for radon, lots of it here in Nevada. We are OK but I think you are on the right line of logic. Bob in nevada
Hello Bob. Thank you as always for great feedback.
Radon info is getting bigger every year.
I found the radon details interesting. As I think about it, I would not want one piece of plumbing passing through the structure on a basement floor - keep it all 100% outside. This is a system that except for a home sale [maybe] will never ever be inspected. If there is a plumbing break, the house gets turned into a dedicated radon collection facility - that's worse than doing nothing. Plus... a penetration in the slab is an extra point for moisture ingress.
What if years down the road the cement cracks and then there a water leak (washing machine, hot water heater, pipe break, etc) the water would pool under the slab and have no way to dry. Maybe even heave the concrete.
Wow, you must be bored to come on here and start inventing hypothetical scenarios....
So what would you do with a regular insulation job or a mandatory sealed air barrier?
@@SprayJones was a serious question something that has a very likely to occur in the future.
Don't get me wrong I like spray foam just under the slab scares me for this reason
Thoughts on laying 2" rigid down and spraying over the top of that? Could see this being an effective cost for performance solution in cases you want to build up to 4+ inches of insulation, but also want to avoid seams and ensure air and moisture barrier is continuous.
We are the rigid....
The foam would lift the rigid right off what it is sitting on as it cools.
@@SprayJones Good to know. I know your plenty rigid but I was just curious as to my understanding 2" XPS 4x8 sheets are probably close to half the price per linear foot in the case of a home owner or builder doing things themselves, but if it doesn't work its as simple as that.