@@MonkeyJedi99 Now I don’t feel quite as ancient. But I do recall having to repair the drivers window crank mechanism on my 1961 Ford Falcon. It was a pain, too.
@@MonkeyJedi99 That’s good. I had to actually show one of my great grandkids a desktop server I had built (and is still in my shop), as he had never seen anything but laptops, tablets and phones. He was not impressed as it was not a touchscreen. Sigh.
well with a little bit of training anything is pretty much possable as i' ma beginner the only thing holding you back is buying the tools to do anything because they are the key to becoming successful
When someone is really good at what they do, anyone watching will think they can do it. They don't see the tips & tricks that they picked up with experience.
@@jacobfitzgerald6050 fixed three regulators on my car it’s not hard once you know hoe it’s all put together no different then a brake job once you do one you can do the other three no problem
I have spent a terrifying amount of my life watching this man change window regulators and I spend every video worrying about his fingers. Great vid as ever Ray.
I used to major problems with regulators in the past, but you make it soooo easy. You continue to impressed this 62 yr. old man. You make me proud, like I am proud of my oldest son, of the younger generation of mechanics. There are some bad one ones, but not here.
Window regulator replacement was something I never enjoyed as a tech. Step 1: remove inner door panel- for .000001 hours. Step 2: remove every other part in door- .000002 hours. Step 3: remove regulator- .000003 hours. When all said and done about .00006 hours total for job. Don't forget the other interruptions from service advisor, waiting for parts etc. Then the customer complains it costs too much. Parts people won't budge on cost of parts so labor time gets hacked down some more. After all that, tech gets paid for .000005 hours time. It always seemed this way to me anyways. I hope you all reading this see the humor in it, but this is a large dose of reality in there.
Never worked as a technician but have worked in body shops and I can say it's the same over with those guys. Some want to make the money and others want to save the money. I will say though that ray you are the first technician on either side (body or service) that would rather make the job more affordable for the consumer and not sell for a lot of hours and big pay day. For that I salute you sir.
WD-40 works great on removing goo. You just have to remove the WD-40 with soap and water after. It takes pine sap & pitch off hands instantly (ancient logger's secret ay?). I bought a truck that was parked under a pine tree for several years. Sat in my driveway with WD, plastic scraper and red rags.... like new after many hours.
Every time Ray works on a Chevy product it brings back memories of my 68 Camaro and it's problems, leaking windshield, water dripping off the rear view mirror , driver's side roll up window didn't work (never worked actually) and then the shear joy of my first Toyota truck. Sold that Chevy and never looked back. Toyota must have been closely watching Detroit manufacturing because they made cars and trucks that worked as advertised and held up over the long run...
Ya to that , tho ur 68 Camero in un rusted condition would command a kings ransom today. The Toyota would merely be continuing it's ridiculously long service life.....
@@peted5217 I live in California and cars don't rust here . On the other hand , environmental regs make it difficult to get registration on older polluting cars since our govenator wants Cal to lead the rest of the country in being green. That Camaro was 305 V8 as I remember , four speed with a clutch that was starting to go south. Looked great as long as you didn't have to start it and put gas in it.
@@woodway11 Many CA expats surround us here in CenTex. Having left for one reason or another. Mostly selling expensive property there and buying similar for a third or less until recently. A few no doubt enjoy TX emission free registration of anything over 25 yo like 94 Silverado and ancient GM 65 Chevelle and 72 nova I still drive occasionally. Also several Toyota Celicas and a trusty 88 Camry wgn , handy in hi fuel prices currently. These vehicles are considered inconsequential in the environment issue here . Most helpful to an old rodder still enjoying a 'Stop Lite Gran Prix' or two. So , ya, I understand your pleasant thoughts of fun cars past
When those 3m window vents came out, I bought them for every car I ever owned. I started in 1991 and now it's 2022, and got new ones for my last car. Been through thousand or more car washes and never once did any of the 4 ever came off. Great product. Am glad Ray put them on his truck. They look classy.
Get a rubber eraser wheel you can attach to a drill to remove old adhesive tape. Works perfectly without damaging paint. Made by 3M. Available on Amazon
@@williamroberts4758 a hand sanitizer that contain isopropyl. Same thing as rubbing alcohol. Hmmm 99 cent bottle of rubbing alcohol or $5 bottle of hand sanitizer
'Last of the Mohicans' was a novel by James Fennimore Cooper in 1826 set in 1757. Quite a bit before your Silverado was made. I am enjoying watching how you make these jobs look so easy when even replacing the glove box lid in my car is a major task.
I've done many window regulators in my day, and I'm glad that yours were so easy! And you made adding and changing the trim pieces look easy. Take it easy on Young Troy, he's not Peter, yet ! Keep em' turning!
Next time you run into adhesive residue on paint (as long as it is a metal) get a 3M eraser wheel, as a detailer they have been a God send!!! Makes jobs like that window guard goo a quick job. Also, with the window guards, just peel enough edge that you can grab, that way you can adjust without fear of it sticking before you are ready. Then when you are stick the ends, and peel it from between the vent and paint.
@@tinoyb9294 check out AMMO NYC's channel. He does high end detailing and removes clear bras quite often. He has some really good tips but prepare for the suck factor. There's really no "easy button".
I am amazed that there was an ample amount of wiring available for that switch. You were able to pull it out to a comfortable working distance to make the switch replacement easier.
Ray, back in the 70's and 80's I flew freight in small piston engine airplanes from Rochester, NY where AC Delco had a plant that manufactured those window regulators, power door locks and other small motor accessories. Shipping those power window regulators was a dirty and somewhat dangerous job. They would come to us on a pallet which would not fit in the aircraft, so we would have to manually load them into the airplane one by one taking care not to damage them as we stacked them one layer after another with cardboard between each layer. Then we would use cargo straps to "secure" the load to prevent them from shifting. Once we arrived at the airport closest to whichever plant needed them,-- Flint, MI; Pontiac, MI; Detroit, MI, for example, we would again handle them one by one to unload the airplane. I remember many greasy and blood hands after those flights, but hey, GM needed those parts ASAP and I got to log much needed multi-engine cross country time that airlines demanded before they would hire you. There was also a Rochester Products Plant that made carburetors and other fuel system components for GM. They were MUCH easier to ship! As always, another great video Ray.
@@ferrumignis GM managed their inventory in what is referred to as a Zero Inventory System. That is, they would try to manage to have on hand only those parts they needed for the assembly lines for that day or maybe the next. This frees up capital and reduces costs. They would call us to fly those parts to the plants whenever they were running low on a particular part and were thereby in danger of shutting down the assembly line. Sometimes this happened due to rail delays, storms that delayed trucks etc. While it is expensive to charter an airplane, shutting down an assembly line or keeping a bunch of inventory on hand to build an entire car or truck is way more expensive.
@UCOkW6d3zz8qHgd7rCGxNMYg Yep. Me too George. BE18''s Aztec's Navajo, etc. Cut my teeth on those and thank God I survived. Made me a good pilot though!
@@Starsnu1 Afaik all major car manufacturers use a simmilar "just in time" inventory, but usualy the parts are transported in semi trucks rather than small planes.
Good to see a mechanic practice what he preaches keeping his personal vehicle in nice condition, I never did, didn't have time running my own business, always drove junk nobody wanted and if it died replace it with another piece of junk.
I'm new to this channel and currently binge watching his content. I have been working on cars as long as I can remember and I'm super impressed with how much of the job this guy manages to do with one hand! New Sub right here
I remember the BMW aftermarket regulator from a few weeks ago that had to be replaced twice. This regulator and installation is a dream by comparison. Also, much more room in the door cavity and access holes are large. -- But then again, Ray almost always makes everything look easy.
I did a BMW regulator and it was bolts and just as easy as this. The only problem was that it was December in New England, so the adhesive was hard and needed a heat gun.
I have an 04 burban that I use for my coroner vehicle and all the gauges, but the speedo didn't work. I learned how to take the dash apart multiple times to get a rebuilt cluster set and have replaced almost everything on the dash in the last 2 years. Oh, it also shows 243680 miles on the odo. Keep up the good work sir.
I love the 2000’s GM trucks. I have a 2002 6.0 unicorn, (1500HD) just rolled over 100,000 miles a few weeks ago. It’s one of the best trucks I’ve ever owned. I’ve had to replace 3 of the 4 window regulators, thus far.
For future jobs that need you to remove adhesive from paint get a eraser wheel. Its a thing that hooks up to your drill and will remove the adhisive without ruining the paint. Ive used this thing a lot in Collision Repair
Julie Andrews - Sound of Music - "These are a few of my unfavorite things. Touching sticky plasticky bits . . ." - Love your use of the English language!
I have a suggestion for the removing the adhesive left from the window guards and tape residue. We use a citrus, based produce called Citra Safe. It smells like oranges and will not harm paint. This produce is available in liquid and in spray cans. This chemical soften adhesive on contact and will not damage the paint. I am a licensed aircraft mechanic working the 737 Max and this is what we use to remove tape residue on aircraft that have been storage for more than 3 years. Thought this might work for you too.
I had an old 78 Merc Monarch driver widow stopped working. Wise auto body guy knew what to try first, a good hammer to the perfect spot. Gear was just jammed. Boy was I relieved. Oh body work, so much fun.
Also, acetone is the best solvent for removing decal/tape adhesive you can get - it is safe to use on urethane clearcoat paint. It works well and I've used it to remove decal adhesive from decommissioned police vehicles. Just keep it away from the plastics.
As an automotive locksmith I grew tired of the sticky kaka all over when removing panels. Probably not the best idea but I was over it. I sliced the plastic in half vertically, butterflied it open and when done I would use tape and put it back together.
@@justme5384 (i know, it was a joke) :)) Still, it was on shop time and premises. Plus who knows, the customer might be an a$$ and refuse to give The Precious back.
This is one of the most enjoyable videos, nothing aggravating, smooth as glass. Your videos make me glad I'm not a mechanic anymore, these vehicles are a pain to work on anymore, take this off to get to that, no room to work. Glad it's you and not me. lol
You need to use Bosistos Eucalyptus Oil. Not sure if you can get this product in the USA. In Australia we use this product it makes it super easy to clean off residue left from anything that is sticky or gooey. Once you use this stuff you will never use anything else again to clean stuff like this off again. Peel off as much of the sticker as you're able, then press the area with a cloth or cotton ball soaked with eucalyptus oil. Leave the oil to start to dissolve the bonds for a few minutes then simply scrape the residue off, being careful not to scratch your item. Repeat until all residue is gone.
Just did this job on my 2000 Silverado 1500 drivers side door. I just taped the glass in the up position and removed the regulator. Quick and easy job.
Must be a common thing with Chevy trucks.Replaced my window regulator several times.The original seemed identical to the crappy Doorman regulator.Fixed the problem by buying Toyota trucks.
Ray, it's not racists, you honor them by mentioning their name, and you also honor them by remembering them. So no it is not racists, I am half Native American (Indian) Cherokee, and Half Irish. All the PC bs nowadays are just another form of harassment. Some people take so many things out of context, Nothing you said was meant in a harmful or derogatory way brother. PS: love the videos Ray, would love to see you set up a rear differential, ring, and pinion gear set, Backlash, etc.
Isn't it such a shame that we've progressed to this level? I briefly considered editing that comment out (don't want to be canceled) but then I realized that if I censor myself, they win. It's always worth the risk to do what is right.
If I need more of the black caulk to seal the plastic, I use 3M Strip Calk (not misspelled). Eastwood makes it too. Amazon has it. It’s soft butyl rubber. Can be used on many things, not just autos. One project I used it on is where my satellite wires enter a 1 1/2 inch diameter pipe that runs through my foundation. Sealed the outside with a larger size varmints don’t like the taste.
Ray, Last of the Mohicans is the title of a book written by James Finimore Cooper in 1826 and is the 2nd of the Leatherstocking Tales pentalogy. It is about the struggle between the French and the British, with the help of respective 1st nationer allies, to establish control of Canada and North America.
Aloha Ray, Hawaii here. Gnarly is still used here and will be for ever more. As for your fuel additive content, we will call that “Fuel Nectar “ stay frosty!
Great video as usual Ray. I made the mistake of going Captain Caveman on the glass retainers in a 01 PT Cruiser and the glass shattered, lesson learned 😁 BTW, Weather Tech (not a sponsor) makes wind deflectors that ride in the window tracks (weather stripping) No adhesive 💩 required.
Not sure if someone else said this but - WD40 works awesome on old adhesive… you will have to use another cleaning solution to clean the WD40 off, but it’s so much easier than what I just watch you do a bunch of times…lol
Very cool Ray .... nice window regulator replacement nothing is easy , but you always make me feel I can do it ..... somehow ! lol ... Cheers Ray ... Steve . 👍🛻🍺
I keep telling everybody about different videos I have seen of yours. Alot of them are quite comical. Your reactions to a lot of things is priceless. Keep up the good work and I will try to keep spreading the word about your amazing channel. Hope you have a great day and keep the good and hard work.
I have done a few windows for family and when they are broken and need to be put up before a new window motor and regulator is supplied, I would use tie straps to hold the windows in placeuntil I can change out the motor and regulator. That works really good and you don't have to worry about someone pushing down the window to get into the car to steal everything you leave in it. Just something to think about next time or for any of the other peeps that watch your channel. Tie strap the window track at the top closing the window completely it works every time.
As a rule I have always found a bolt or screw close to any door panel I have removed, they normally like to hide them but it does make sense as a lot of pulling comes from that part of a door 👍
just another great video, it is nice to learn about the interior panels and wiring . the window controls and the use of the suction cops to retain the window in the top of the track while you replaced the window drive, I learn so much from your presentation’s.
Eraser wheel the window shade tape off after you take the plastic off. They cost around 11 bucks. Much easier and faster than any method for removing double sided tape
Where I like about my window guards like that is I can leave my windows cracked open a little bit when sitting out in the heat and don't have to worry about the rain getting in by the way you did a great job Ray as usual I wouldn't expect anything less you're the best have a good one
Sometimes cooking oil spray will break up adhesive left from tape. Of course, then you have to clean off the oil, but wax and grease remover works well for that.
Every time i do vent visors now i use 3M adhesive promoter after i clean the paint, back when i used to work at a dealership they had us installing accessories on new vehicles and we would have comebacks because the visors would fall off, due to the tape not adhering to the paint. so they would tell us to use the promoter to reattach them. they didn't want us to use it on the initial install because they were like $5 bucks apiece for the little package, so if warranty covered it the dealer wouldn't being paying. i have since bought my own box was like $70 bucks, but its lasted years, no expiration since the packs are sealed.
That window is indeed tinted...but it's factory tint which is in center of glass....no worries scratching....I call the goo holding plastic on "goo from hell" but for my money the waxy frame coating on new GM trucks and SUVs is way more irritating....great video
I changed the window regularly on my Buick century I cheaped out and bought just the regular no motor which I don't regret it even a doorman for 20bucks on line ofcourse
Great video as usual. But having replaced all 4 regulators in my 2000 Yukon XL in the 14 years and 44,000 miles while I owned it,I would not recommend paying the the 250% premium over the price of a Dorman replacement for OEM, Those Delco units are junk also, just more expensive junk than Dorman. My right front window was seldom raised or lowered. Drivers side mainly for drive thru fast food and an occasional tool booth, and the rear ones literally went years without being deployed. Full disclosure I've also replaced two front Dorman units over the past eight years as well since I passed the Yukon on to my daughter who still drives it today. GM wanted well over $200 for OEM and Dormans were in the $70 - 85 range at the time. I'd also recommend that anyone attempting to do this job test their installation before reinstalling the door panel since no one in their right mind would want to deal with that icky sticky plastic liner glue a second time.
Great video. It's a whole different thing without the road salt. Road salt just destroys everything and makes a mess, it gets into everything eating it away and corroding it. They use a liquid here now that will eat chrome off a wrench and it doesn't come off unless you use a pressure washer or hand wash. Cars from 2007 are mostly rotting away and some have already been taken off the road due to structural failure.
@Rainman Ray's Repairs just to let you and all your viewers know that an expired plastic giftcard is the perfect thing for cleaning that sticky stuff off and it won't hurt the paintwork
The reference is to James Fenimore Cooper's *The Last of the Mohicans* published in 1826 which is a fictional "narrative of 1757." It's a wonderful tale involving the interaction of an Englishman, Hawkeye (Natty Bumppo), with a Mohican, Chingachgook. Although somewhat dubious as history, it does give an idea of what went on In New York State among the tribes and the French and the English in the eighteenth century. All of Cooper's *Leatherstocking Tales* are wonderful transports into a very early time where values were far from where they are today--cultural differences could still be acknowledged and celebrated. Also, 99% Isopropyl (available in bulk gallons from Amazon) is unsurpassed for removing glue residue. It was the only thing that finally worked to get the glue off some Lexan windows after the protective paper had been left on too long.
I did notice you forgot to put back the harness retainer, no big deal. A hint from someone who has been doing auto painting for over 40 years, to remove tar, glue, tape, and asphalt from paint without damaging the paint use Ronson Lighter Fluid. Not Zippo, only Ronson works and it even gives you a description on the can what it removes. Just a little on a paper towel works wonders.
Freebird!! Ray, put out some awesome content and I’ve learned quite a few techniques from watching. Your parasitic draw test is probably the easiest way I have ever seen it done.
Ray any octane booster will give you improved mid and top end, and if you drive as you would normally, it will give gains in mileage, what you have to take into consideration is the cost of the additive against the fuel saving, generally not effective enough gains to justify for economy reasons but you can certainly get some power gains with a booster
You really need to get some Rain-X. That stuff is amazing as long as there's wind hitting the glass. It doesn't work nearly as well on vehicles with bug screens at the front of the hood. Should work great on your truck.
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When working on automobile winders, I appreciate the extra care that manufacturers take to hone all exposed sheet metal to nice razor sharp edges.
I built dozens of desktop computers decades ago,and signed every one with blood. Couldn’t work with gloves, either.
I have not opened the inners of a car door since the moisture liner was waxed paper instead of clear poly.
@@MonkeyJedi99 Now I don’t feel quite as ancient. But I do recall having to repair the drivers window crank mechanism on my 1961 Ford Falcon. It was a pain, too.
@@mred8002 Old folks unite!*
*from our separate rockers and recliners, if you don't mind.
@@MonkeyJedi99 That’s good. I had to actually show one of my great grandkids a desktop server I had built (and is still in my shop), as he had never seen anything but laptops, tablets and phones. He was not impressed as it was not a touchscreen. Sigh.
You make everything look so easy. Anyone that has ever done a repair involving disassembling the interior of a vehicle knows how painful it can be
well with a little bit of training anything is pretty much possable as i' ma beginner the only thing holding you back is buying the tools to do anything because they are the key to becoming successful
My usual rant when taking apart anything on the interior is “What the hell was wrong with being able to see the dang screws?”.🤔
When someone is really good at what they do, anyone watching will think they can do it. They don't see the tips & tricks that they picked up with experience.
@@jacobfitzgerald6050 fixed three regulators on my car it’s not hard once you know hoe it’s all put together no different then a brake job once you do one you can do the other three no problem
I have spent a terrifying amount of my life watching this man change window regulators and I spend every video worrying about his fingers. Great vid as ever Ray.
Nope, he's a Freebird with this one.
Im retired now and what i do now is watch your all of your services that you have on you tube,if only more Mechanics were as Honest as you are.
I used to major problems with regulators in the past, but you make it soooo easy. You continue to impressed this 62 yr. old man. You make me proud, like I am proud of my oldest son, of the younger generation of mechanics. There are some bad one ones, but not here.
Window regulator replacement was something I never enjoyed as a tech.
Step 1: remove inner door panel- for .000001 hours.
Step 2: remove every other part in door- .000002 hours.
Step 3: remove regulator- .000003 hours.
When all said and done about .00006 hours total for job.
Don't forget the other interruptions from service advisor, waiting for parts etc.
Then the customer complains it costs too much. Parts people won't budge on cost of parts so labor time gets hacked down some more. After all that, tech gets paid for .000005 hours time.
It always seemed this way to me anyways. I hope you all reading this see the humor in it, but this is a large dose of reality in there.
Never worked as a technician but have worked in body shops and I can say it's the same over with those guys. Some want to make the money and others want to save the money. I will say though that ray you are the first technician on either side (body or service) that would rather make the job more affordable for the consumer and not sell for a lot of hours and big pay day. For that I salute you sir.
WD-40 works great on removing goo. You just have to remove the WD-40 with soap and water after. It takes pine sap & pitch off hands instantly (ancient logger's secret ay?). I bought a truck that was parked under a pine tree for several years. Sat in my driveway with WD, plastic scraper and red rags.... like new after many hours.
Orange oil (Goo Gone), vegetable oil, and motor oil all work too. Soapy cleanup required afterwards too.
That, without a doubt, has to be the simplest, fastest window regulator replacement you have ever shown us!
Every time Ray works on a Chevy product it brings back memories of my 68 Camaro and it's problems, leaking windshield, water dripping off the rear view mirror , driver's side roll up window didn't work (never worked actually) and then the shear joy of my first Toyota truck. Sold that Chevy and never looked back. Toyota must have been closely watching Detroit manufacturing because they made cars and trucks that worked as advertised and held up over the long run...
Ya to that , tho ur 68 Camero in un rusted condition would command a kings ransom today. The Toyota would merely be continuing it's ridiculously long service life.....
@@peted5217 I live in California and cars don't rust here . On the other hand , environmental regs make it difficult to get registration on older polluting cars since our govenator wants Cal to lead the rest of the country in being green. That Camaro was 305 V8 as I remember , four speed with a clutch that was starting to go south. Looked great as long as you didn't have to start it and put gas in it.
@@woodway11 Many CA expats surround us here in CenTex. Having left for one reason or another. Mostly selling expensive property there and buying similar for a third or less until recently. A few no doubt enjoy TX emission free registration of anything over 25 yo like 94 Silverado and ancient GM 65 Chevelle and 72 nova I still drive occasionally. Also several Toyota Celicas and a trusty 88 Camry wgn , handy in hi fuel prices currently. These vehicles are considered inconsequential in the environment issue here . Most helpful to an old rodder still enjoying a 'Stop Lite Gran Prix' or two. So , ya, I understand your pleasant thoughts of fun cars past
When those 3m window vents came out, I bought them for every car I ever owned. I started in 1991 and now it's 2022, and got new ones for my last car. Been through thousand or more car washes and never once did any of the 4 ever came off. Great product. Am glad Ray put them on his truck. They look classy.
Get a rubber eraser wheel you can attach to a drill to remove old adhesive tape. Works perfectly without damaging paint. Made by 3M. Available on Amazon
Never heard that. Pretty cool.
Most hand sanitizers work also, rub on and let sit a couple of mins.
@@williamroberts4758 a hand sanitizer that contain isopropyl. Same thing as rubbing alcohol. Hmmm 99 cent bottle of rubbing alcohol or $5 bottle of hand sanitizer
I think Ray is hoping for another surprise 'gift' package! 😉
'Last of the Mohicans' was a novel by James Fennimore Cooper in 1826 set in 1757. Quite a bit before your Silverado was made.
I am enjoying watching how you make these jobs look so easy when even replacing the glove box lid in my car is a major task.
And a movie with Daniel Day Lewis and Madeline Stowe.
@@dfwait14 Yes. there have been a few attempts to transfer the book to the screen. some less successful than others.
I've done many window regulators in my day, and I'm glad that yours were so easy! And you made adding and changing the trim pieces look easy. Take it easy on Young Troy, he's not Peter, yet ! Keep em' turning!
Next time you run into adhesive residue on paint (as long as it is a metal) get a 3M eraser wheel, as a detailer they have been a God send!!! Makes jobs like that window guard goo a quick job.
Also, with the window guards, just peel enough edge that you can grab, that way you can adjust without fear of it sticking before you are ready. Then when you are stick the ends, and peel it from between the vent and paint.
Any suggestions for removing clear bras?
@@tinoyb9294 I don't know of the top of my head, but chatting up a truck lettering shop might get you some good ideas.
@@tinoyb9294 check out AMMO NYC's channel. He does high end detailing and removes clear bras quite often. He has some really good tips but prepare for the suck factor. There's really no "easy button".
Thank you for telling me about the eraser wheel I've never used one great idea thank you have a good evening
I am amazed that there was an ample amount of wiring available for that switch. You were able to pull it out to a comfortable working distance to make the switch replacement easier.
I'm enjoying my life as an auto mechanic living vicariously through your vids,, minus the oil,grease and unappreciating and sometimes nasty customers.
Ray, back in the 70's and 80's I flew freight in small piston engine airplanes from Rochester, NY where AC Delco had a plant that manufactured those window regulators, power door locks and other small motor accessories. Shipping those power window regulators was a dirty and somewhat dangerous job. They would come to us on a pallet which would not fit in the aircraft, so we would have to manually load them into the airplane one by one taking care not to damage them as we stacked them one layer after another with cardboard between each layer. Then we would use cargo straps to "secure" the load to prevent them from shifting. Once we arrived at the airport closest to whichever plant needed them,-- Flint, MI; Pontiac, MI; Detroit, MI, for example, we would again handle them one by one to unload the airplane. I remember many greasy and blood hands after those flights, but hey, GM needed those parts ASAP and I got to log much needed multi-engine cross country time that airlines demanded before they would hire you.
There was also a Rochester Products Plant that made carburetors and other fuel system components for GM. They were MUCH easier to ship! As always, another great video Ray.
I never knew they shipped components like this, seems like an expensive way of doing things?
@@ferrumignis GM managed their inventory in what is referred to as a Zero Inventory System. That is, they would try to manage to have on hand only those parts they needed for the assembly lines for that day or maybe the next. This frees up capital and reduces costs. They would call us to fly those parts to the plants whenever they were running low on a particular part and were thereby in danger of shutting down the assembly line. Sometimes this happened due to rail delays, storms that delayed trucks etc. While it is expensive to charter an airplane, shutting down an assembly line or keeping a bunch of inventory on hand to build an entire car or truck is way more expensive.
@UCOkW6d3zz8qHgd7rCGxNMYg Yep. Me too George. BE18''s Aztec's Navajo, etc. Cut my teeth on those and thank God I survived. Made me a good pilot though!
Great story!
@@Starsnu1 Afaik all major car manufacturers use a simmilar "just in time" inventory, but usualy the parts are transported in semi trucks rather than small planes.
Good to see a mechanic practice what he preaches keeping his personal vehicle in nice condition, I never did, didn't have time running my own business, always drove junk nobody wanted and if it died replace it with another piece of junk.
😂 I own a construction company as well and do the same thing. Drive em till they die and get a different one and do the same.
Man I love how you legit went to the shop on your day off just to fix your window on your truck
I'm new to this channel and currently binge watching his content. I have been working on cars as long as I can remember and I'm super impressed with how much of the job this guy manages to do with one hand! New Sub right here
It seems to me it's just as important to know how to take things apart as it is how to put them together.Great video.
I remember the BMW aftermarket regulator from a few weeks ago that had to be replaced twice. This regulator and installation is a dream by comparison. Also, much more room in the door cavity and access holes are large. -- But then again, Ray almost always makes everything look easy.
He worked at a GM repair facility in the past, and I imagine he’s using OEM parts. As he’s said in the past, he’s not a fan of European vehicles.
@@billchessell8213 Also, bolts make the job a lot easier than rivets.
And, there is no adjusting with this unit. Set it and forget it.
I did a BMW regulator and it was bolts and just as easy as this. The only problem was that it was December in New England, so the adhesive was hard and needed a heat gun.
The concept of KISS engineering is lost on Euros
I have an 04 burban that I use for my coroner vehicle and all the gauges, but the speedo didn't work. I learned how to take the dash apart multiple times to get a rebuilt cluster set and have replaced almost everything on the dash in the last 2 years. Oh, it also shows 243680 miles on the odo. Keep up the good work sir.
I love the 2000’s GM trucks. I have a 2002 6.0 unicorn, (1500HD) just rolled over 100,000 miles a few weeks ago. It’s one of the best trucks I’ve ever owned. I’ve had to replace 3 of the 4 window regulators, thus far.
Domestic Vehicles (except ford) before 2007 recession/bankruptcy are better than those since. Lotsa cost cutting is the main culprick.
For future jobs that need you to remove adhesive from paint get a eraser wheel. Its a thing that hooks up to your drill and will remove the adhisive without ruining the paint. Ive used this thing a lot in Collision Repair
I just did this same door on my 2006 TBSS. 30 minutes start to finish, 10mm, 7mm, and Phillips, no rivets - I love GM sometimes!
I think your the only mechanic I've seen save and put back the plastic liner in the door panels.
Julie Andrews - Sound of Music - "These are a few of my unfavorite things. Touching sticky plasticky bits . . ." - Love your use of the English language!
I have a suggestion for the removing the adhesive left from the window guards and tape residue. We use a citrus, based produce called Citra Safe. It smells like oranges and will not harm paint. This produce is available in liquid and in spray cans. This chemical soften adhesive on contact and will not damage the paint. I am a licensed aircraft mechanic working the 737 Max and this is what we use to remove tape residue on aircraft that have been storage for more than 3 years. Thought this might work for you too.
That has to be the easiest door to work on I have seen and the safest. Shaved a few shin slivers in the past on sharp edges Thanks for the video.
I had an old 78 Merc Monarch driver widow stopped working. Wise auto body guy knew what to try first, a good hammer to the perfect spot. Gear was just jammed. Boy was I relieved. Oh body work, so much fun.
Also, acetone is the best solvent for removing decal/tape adhesive you can get - it is safe to use on urethane clearcoat paint. It works well and I've used it to remove decal adhesive from decommissioned police vehicles. Just keep it away from the plastics.
As an automotive locksmith I grew tired of the sticky kaka all over when removing panels. Probably not the best idea but I was over it. I sliced the plastic in half vertically, butterflied it open and when done I would use tape and put it back together.
If you use either metallized tape or house wrap tape you should be fine. Both are vapor impermeable and long lasting.
Great Video Ray!
I’ve found it’s easier to go on TH-cam to make sure how to take a door panel off a specific model of vehicle.
If you are looking for the 10mm, its in your door 9:13 🙂
Gosh and tragedy... now Ray has to phone the customer for a recall.
@@IcecalGamer it's his own truck so easy recall 😂
@@justme5384 (i know, it was a joke) :))
Still, it was on shop time and premises.
Plus who knows, the customer might be an a$$ and refuse to give The Precious back.
I hope you never get sick of making these videos, because I’ll never get sick of watching them
This is one of the most enjoyable videos, nothing aggravating, smooth as glass. Your videos make me glad I'm not a mechanic anymore, these vehicles are a pain to work on anymore, take this off to get to that, no room to work. Glad it's you and not me. lol
You need to use Bosistos Eucalyptus Oil.
Not sure if you can get this product in the USA. In Australia we use this product it makes it super easy to clean off residue left from anything that is sticky or gooey. Once you use this stuff you will never use anything else again to clean stuff like this off again.
Peel off as much of the sticker as you're able, then press the area with a cloth or cotton ball soaked with eucalyptus oil. Leave the oil to start to dissolve the bonds for a few minutes then simply scrape the residue off, being careful not to scratch your item. Repeat until all residue is gone.
At some point, Ray will earn more money from youtube than from his mechanic job. Just let that sink in.... That moment could already be in the past.
Just did this job on my 2000 Silverado 1500 drivers side door. I just taped the glass in the up position and removed the regulator. Quick and easy job.
Problem is its a job...Over and over ...puts food on someone's table.
Crappy chev.regulator design
...just keep blue tape in each door pocket.
Rubbing alcohol works amazing on removing glues and Adhesives @Rainman Ray's Repairs
What we used at dealership for the sticky tape is rust penetrating spray. Works great. Some type of lubricant oil spray.
Must be a common thing with Chevy trucks.Replaced my window regulator several times.The original seemed identical to the crappy Doorman regulator.Fixed the problem by buying Toyota trucks.
Little quick tip: The sticky stuff can be cut by a sharp knive so you don't get the stuff allover your hands
Ray, it's not racists, you honor them by mentioning their name, and you also honor them by remembering them. So no it is not racists, I am half Native American (Indian) Cherokee, and Half Irish. All the PC bs nowadays are just another form of harassment. Some people take so many things out of context, Nothing you said was meant in a harmful or derogatory way brother. PS: love the videos Ray, would love to see you set up a rear differential, ring, and pinion gear set, Backlash, etc.
Isn't it such a shame that we've progressed to this level? I briefly considered editing that comment out (don't want to be canceled) but then I realized that if I censor myself, they win. It's always worth the risk to do what is right.
If I need more of the black caulk to seal the plastic, I use 3M Strip Calk (not misspelled). Eastwood makes it too. Amazon has it. It’s soft butyl rubber. Can be used on many things, not just autos. One project I used it on is where my satellite wires enter a 1 1/2 inch diameter pipe that runs through my foundation. Sealed the outside with a larger size varmints don’t like the taste.
Ray, Last of the Mohicans is the title of a book written by James Finimore Cooper in 1826 and is the 2nd of the Leatherstocking Tales pentalogy. It is about the struggle between the French and the British, with the help of respective 1st nationer allies, to establish control of Canada and North America.
A generous thank you for inserting the explanation of the spare bolts.
Saw them and it would have stuck with me wondering what was up.
Aloha Ray, Hawaii here.
Gnarly is still used here and will be for ever more.
As for your fuel additive content, we will call that “Fuel Nectar “ stay frosty!
Great video as usual Ray.
I made the mistake of going Captain Caveman on the glass retainers in a 01 PT Cruiser and the glass shattered, lesson learned 😁
BTW, Weather Tech (not a sponsor) makes wind deflectors that ride in the window tracks (weather stripping) No adhesive 💩 required.
Not sure if someone else said this but - WD40 works awesome on old adhesive… you will have to use another cleaning solution to clean the WD40 off, but it’s so much easier than what I just watch you do a bunch of times…lol
I heard Eric O say "click" a couple of times today on his Ford purge valve video. You've made your mark!
Very cool Ray .... nice window regulator replacement nothing is easy , but you always make me feel I can do it ..... somehow ! lol ... Cheers Ray ... Steve . 👍🛻🍺
I keep telling everybody about different videos I have seen of yours. Alot of them are quite comical. Your reactions to a lot of things is priceless. Keep up the good work and I will try to keep spreading the word about your amazing channel. Hope you have a great day and keep the good and hard work.
Eraser wheel on a drill works awesome for removing glue. From stickers an trim
A mechanic that actually look after his car 😲😲👌👌
I have done a few windows for family and when they are broken and need to be put up before a new window motor and regulator is supplied, I would use tie straps to hold the windows in placeuntil I can change out the motor and regulator. That works really good and you don't have to worry about someone pushing down the window to get into the car to steal everything you leave in it. Just something to think about next time or for any of the other peeps that watch your channel. Tie strap the window track at the top closing the window completely it works every time.
Ya, the plastic pulleys have a finite life, tho the ones in 88 camry and 85 Celica have yet to fail. Owned both over 2 decades so far.
WD-40 for sticky on paint. Works for tape residue and tree sap, even dried tree sap. It's silicone based so it won't hurt paint.
Raymond for sticky stuff, old tape use rubbing alcohol it will not damage the paint at all.
You're in my head about removing the adhesive, I detailed for years and I was screaming heat gun ! Lol right before you took it out
As a rule I have always found a bolt or screw close to any door panel I have removed, they normally like to hide them but it does make sense as a lot of pulling comes from that part of a door 👍
Nothing more satisfying than working on your own car Ray. Plus it,s freeeeeeee labour
These are the kind of jobs I never get around to,working on cars all day I always seem too tired to do my own stuff!
3M Adhesive Eraser Wheel. Best thing I've ever used for getting adhesive off!!!
Apply plastic wrap over your adhesive removal spray to prevent evaporation before penetration.
That’s what she said 😀
just another great video, it is nice to learn about the interior panels and wiring .
the window controls and the use of the suction cops to retain the window in the top
of the track while you replaced the window drive, I learn so much from your presentation’s.
Man you put it all together before testing it. But it worked.
Nice having a customer that understands quality over cost.
its his own car :D
@@eVOLUC Really?
Eraser wheel the window shade tape off after you take the plastic off. They cost around 11 bucks. Much easier and faster than any method for removing double sided tape
2007 Silverado Classic - last and best of the GMT800 line. You sir, have a nice truck.
That’s a nice truck, Ray. It’s a technological heirloom, with no DPF. 2007, PEAK DIRTYMAX!
Where I like about my window guards like that is I can leave my windows cracked open a little bit when sitting out in the heat and don't have to worry about the rain getting in by the way you did a great job Ray as usual I wouldn't expect anything less you're the best have a good one
Thanks for being the Real Rainman at the Truth Set you Free!!!; )
That's why I like Weather Tek.
Sometimes cooking oil spray will break up adhesive left from tape. Of course, then you have to clean off the oil, but wax and grease remover works well for that.
Every time i do vent visors now i use 3M adhesive promoter after i clean the paint, back when i used to work at a dealership they had us installing accessories on new vehicles and we would have comebacks because the visors would fall off, due to the tape not adhering to the paint. so they would tell us to use the promoter to reattach them. they didn't want us to use it on the initial install because they were like $5 bucks apiece for the little package, so if warranty covered it the dealer wouldn't being paying. i have since bought my own box was like $70 bucks, but its lasted years, no expiration since the packs are sealed.
That window is indeed tinted...but it's factory tint which is in center of glass....no worries scratching....I call the goo holding plastic on "goo from hell" but for my money the waxy frame coating on new GM trucks and SUVs is way more irritating....great video
I would recommend rain-x windshield fluid. Much better visibility in heavy rainage.
My headliner was doing the same thing at the front windshield, so I got some 3M thin clear double sided tape and that solved that problem
I changed the window regularly on my Buick century I cheaped out and bought just the regular no motor which I don't regret it even a doorman for 20bucks on line ofcourse
That was the easiest window regulator job I've ever seen.
Nice to see no rivets too.
The Last of the Mohicans is an great novel written by James Fenimore Cooper sometime in the early 1800's. The '90s version of the movie was excellent.
Great video as usual. But having replaced all 4 regulators in my 2000 Yukon XL in the 14 years and 44,000 miles while I owned it,I would not recommend paying the the 250% premium over the price of a Dorman replacement for OEM, Those Delco units are junk also, just more expensive junk than Dorman. My right front window was seldom raised or lowered. Drivers side mainly for drive thru fast food and an occasional tool booth, and the rear ones literally went years without being deployed.
Full disclosure I've also replaced two front Dorman units over the past eight years as well since I passed the Yukon on to my daughter who still drives it today. GM wanted well over $200 for OEM and Dormans were in the $70 - 85 range at the time.
I'd also recommend that anyone attempting to do this job test their installation before reinstalling the door panel since no one in their right mind would want to deal with that icky sticky plastic liner glue a second time.
Welcome to the GMT 800 club. A saggy headliner is required to be here!!
RainX when applied correctly works well!
3M adhesive remover or you can use fishing line sometimes to take badges and it won't scratch the paint have a good evening
Applying little tabs of silicone grease to the window regulator pivot points and other contact points makes for even smother operation.
Great video. It's a whole different thing without the road salt. Road salt just destroys everything and makes a mess, it gets into everything eating it away and corroding it. They use a liquid here now that will eat chrome off a wrench and it doesn't come off unless you use a pressure washer or hand wash. Cars from 2007 are mostly rotting away and some have already been taken off the road due to structural failure.
@Rainman Ray's Repairs just to let you and all your viewers know that an expired plastic giftcard is the perfect thing for cleaning that sticky stuff off and it won't hurt the paintwork
The reference is to James Fenimore Cooper's *The Last of the Mohicans* published in 1826 which is a fictional "narrative of 1757." It's a wonderful tale involving the interaction of an Englishman, Hawkeye (Natty Bumppo), with a Mohican, Chingachgook. Although somewhat dubious as history, it does give an idea of what went on In New York State among the tribes and the French and the English in the eighteenth century. All of Cooper's *Leatherstocking Tales* are wonderful transports into a very early time where values were far from where they are today--cultural differences could still be acknowledged and celebrated.
Also, 99% Isopropyl (available in bulk gallons from Amazon) is unsurpassed for removing glue residue. It was the only thing that finally worked to get the glue off some Lexan windows after the protective paper had been left on too long.
I have to agree on dealing with the plastic inside the doors.
I did notice you forgot to put back the harness retainer, no big deal. A hint from someone who has been doing auto painting for over 40 years, to remove tar, glue, tape, and asphalt from paint without damaging the paint use Ronson Lighter Fluid. Not Zippo, only Ronson works and it even gives you a description on the can what it removes. Just a little on a paper towel works wonders.
You make it look easy. Nice job. Of course not all replacements will go so easy.
WD40 works wonders for removing adhesive. You just have to then clean the residue left behind. Doesn’t harm the pain at all.
Freebird!! Ray, put out some awesome content and I’ve learned quite a few techniques from watching. Your parasitic draw test is probably the easiest way I have ever seen it done.
WD 40 can work wonders on many types of glue and it doesn't hurt the paint
It's more expensive but I go with the WeatherTech window fairings. They fit inside the window track instead of being glued on.
To each their own...
But that wouldn't work to cover up the old adhesive. 😉
Those suction cup support things are pretty slick.
Ray any octane booster will give you improved mid and top end, and if you drive as you would normally, it will give gains in mileage, what you have to take into consideration is the cost of the additive against the fuel saving, generally not effective enough gains to justify for economy reasons but you can certainly get some power gains with a booster
You really need to get some Rain-X. That stuff is amazing as long as there's wind hitting the glass. It doesn't work nearly as well on vehicles with bug screens at the front of the hood. Should work great on your truck.