Glad I could help! This reminds me of a short vlog that Clint Gibbs just published (Friday) about how helpful it can be to share knowledge on TH-cam: th-cam.com/video/_7vLmaPbXag/w-d-xo.html
I am having the same issue and it's annoying. I tightened stronger too but still in vain. So, I bought the Park Tool SuperGrip you used but have not got it yet due to lockdown. Maybe in 20 days I will get it. I have quick release clamp which I'm going to switch to bolt clamp soon as well. Fortunately I watched your video and saw you put grease then the grip paste above it. I thought to put the grip paste on the entire seatpost below the minimum insertion mark lol. I didn't realise if I do that, the entire seatpost will be a problem to remove.
I can't speak for every seatpost and frame combination, but on all my bicycles, I found that it's best to start with a small amount of carbon grip compound. You can always add more if needed - but using too much can definitely get your seatpost stuck!
It helps with that too. In my experience, I get more vertical movement than rotational. Oh - there is something else you can try: Thomson makes a really good seatpost collar that clamps with more force. Be careful if you combine it with a carbon frame and/or carbon post: www.bikethomson.com/product/seatpost-collar/
Hello sir my steel seatpost is slipping into alloy frame seattube. It is new cycle the quick release was that tight so thatI could push the lever with bare fingers. No palm needed. I am 90 kg. Don't have any fiber grip or carbon assembly paste.(not available online or cycle store) Also found some oxidised may be white powder on the seat post. So I need to grease to stop corrosion. I only have lithium grease. It lithium grease gonna provide any grip counterintuitively. Some people using hairspray and saying it stops the slippage. Please help.
Hi! First of all, if you have a quick-release, usually there is a screw opposite the lever that can be tightened to increase the tension when you close the lever. Second - because you have a metal seatpost and a metal frame, you don't have to worry much about breaking anything, so you can more or less increase the clamping force until the seatpost doesn't slip anymore. Finally - lithium grease is fine. It won't provide any grip, but it will prevent corrosion, which is important especially if your seatpost and frame are different metals. If all else fails, try a new non-QR seatpost clamp - the Thomson clamps in particular can really provide a lot of force. www.jensonusa.com/Thomson-Seatpost-Clamp
Thanks for your video. One of my bikes is a cargo bike with aluminium seat post. I use it to drop our young kids at school/kindergarten in the morning, and then my wife uses it to pick them up in the afternoon. My wife uses a much shorter seat height than I do. Seat slippage is a constant problem for me on this bike. Do you think it would work to put that grip paste in two places on the seat post (i.e. the place where it clamps for me, and the place where it clamps for my wife? Any other tips welcome...
I assume this bike has a quick-release on the seat tube clamp... All I can think of, is to run that clamp a little tighter. Yes, carbon grip compound will definitely help - but it will also be a bit messy, since some of compound will be exposed when the seatpost is in the higher position.
Yes, in fact the bike in the video is a steel frame with an aluminum seatpost. Carbon grip compound is especially important for carbon frames and posts, because the material is very smooth to begin with, and there are hard limits on how much torque you can apply to the pinch bolt (typically no more than 5Nm). But the same grip compound also works really well for other frame and post materials.
I have a carbon seat post in a carbon frame - the original clamp was rated for 4nm with tiny torx bolt. I replaced the clamp with a hope one which says it takes 8nm but I'm not sure if it's okay to tighten that much on the frame? Does the torque rating only apply to the clamp or does higher torque on the clamp = more clamping force on the frame? Would the hope one at 8nm have the same clamping force as the original at 4nm?
I think you want to stay with the original torque spec, because the frame and seatpost are the limiting components. However - it's also possible that the Hope clamp is stiffer, and therefore has higher "running torque" with less force applied to the frame and post (or maybe it's broader and spreads the pressure out more evenly?). What I would suggest is that you start low (4 Nm) and increase a bit at a time until the post stays put when riding. Obviously use a bit of carbon paste too. But also, maybe reach out to Hope or the maker of your bike frame directly for their expert advice? My bikes all use 5 Nm torque for the seatpost clamp, for what it's worth.
@@BikesBlades thanks, the hope clamp is much wider and has a bigger bolt than the standard - no luck getting it to stop slipping though even with paste and full torque the hope clamp says - dropper post needed I think!
Hmm... strange! It goes without saying: make sure you have the exact right size seat post! As with most things in the bike industry, there are way too many different sizes in use: www.sheldonbrown.com/seatpost-sizes.html
Thank you for the tip on not using carbon grip on the whole seatpost ! I would have done that, if I had not seen this.
I found out the hard way 😉so in my experience, it's easier to start with a little, and work up as needed 😉
Thanks for this. I'm a newbie cyclist due to this pandemic and this video explain things in a more "layman way".
Glad I could help! This reminds me of a short vlog that Clint Gibbs just published (Friday) about how helpful it can be to share knowledge on TH-cam: th-cam.com/video/_7vLmaPbXag/w-d-xo.html
I am having the same issue and it's annoying. I tightened stronger too but still in vain. So, I bought the Park Tool SuperGrip you used but have not got it yet due to lockdown. Maybe in 20 days I will get it. I have quick release clamp which I'm going to switch to bolt clamp soon as well.
Fortunately I watched your video and saw you put grease then the grip paste above it. I thought to put the grip paste on the entire seatpost below the minimum insertion mark lol. I didn't realise if I do that, the entire seatpost will be a problem to remove.
I can't speak for every seatpost and frame combination, but on all my bicycles, I found that it's best to start with a small amount of carbon grip compound. You can always add more if needed - but using too much can definitely get your seatpost stuck!
Thank you sir, you are truly kind.
You are very welcome! I'm glad this was helpful.
It'll keep the post from slipping down inside the bike frame sure but what about the left to right seat movement?
It helps with that too. In my experience, I get more vertical movement than rotational. Oh - there is something else you can try: Thomson makes a really good seatpost collar that clamps with more force. Be careful if you combine it with a carbon frame and/or carbon post: www.bikethomson.com/product/seatpost-collar/
Hello sir
my steel seatpost is slipping into alloy frame seattube. It is new cycle the quick release was that tight so thatI could push the lever with bare fingers. No palm needed.
I am 90 kg. Don't have any fiber grip or carbon assembly paste.(not available online or cycle store)
Also found some oxidised may be white powder on the seat post.
So I need to grease to stop corrosion.
I only have lithium grease. It lithium grease gonna provide any grip counterintuitively.
Some people using hairspray and saying it stops the slippage.
Please help.
Hi! First of all, if you have a quick-release, usually there is a screw opposite the lever that can be tightened to increase the tension when you close the lever. Second - because you have a metal seatpost and a metal frame, you don't have to worry much about breaking anything, so you can more or less increase the clamping force until the seatpost doesn't slip anymore. Finally - lithium grease is fine. It won't provide any grip, but it will prevent corrosion, which is important especially if your seatpost and frame are different metals. If all else fails, try a new non-QR seatpost clamp - the Thomson clamps in particular can really provide a lot of force. www.jensonusa.com/Thomson-Seatpost-Clamp
Thanks for your video. One of my bikes is a cargo bike with aluminium seat post. I use it to drop our young kids at school/kindergarten in the morning, and then my wife uses it to pick them up in the afternoon. My wife uses a much shorter seat height than I do. Seat slippage is a constant problem for me on this bike. Do you think it would work to put that grip paste in two places on the seat post (i.e. the place where it clamps for me, and the place where it clamps for my wife? Any other tips welcome...
I assume this bike has a quick-release on the seat tube clamp... All I can think of, is to run that clamp a little tighter. Yes, carbon grip compound will definitely help - but it will also be a bit messy, since some of compound will be exposed when the seatpost is in the higher position.
I’m assuming this will work on a steel frame? Having this annoying problem at the moment. Help!
Yes, in fact the bike in the video is a steel frame with an aluminum seatpost. Carbon grip compound is especially important for carbon frames and posts, because the material is very smooth to begin with, and there are hard limits on how much torque you can apply to the pinch bolt (typically no more than 5Nm). But the same grip compound also works really well for other frame and post materials.
I have a carbon seat post in a carbon frame - the original clamp was rated for 4nm with tiny torx bolt. I replaced the clamp with a hope one which says it takes 8nm but I'm not sure if it's okay to tighten that much on the frame? Does the torque rating only apply to the clamp or does higher torque on the clamp = more clamping force on the frame? Would the hope one at 8nm have the same clamping force as the original at 4nm?
I think you want to stay with the original torque spec, because the frame and seatpost are the limiting components. However - it's also possible that the Hope clamp is stiffer, and therefore has higher "running torque" with less force applied to the frame and post (or maybe it's broader and spreads the pressure out more evenly?). What I would suggest is that you start low (4 Nm) and increase a bit at a time until the post stays put when riding. Obviously use a bit of carbon paste too. But also, maybe reach out to Hope or the maker of your bike frame directly for their expert advice? My bikes all use 5 Nm torque for the seatpost clamp, for what it's worth.
@@BikesBlades thanks, the hope clamp is much wider and has a bigger bolt than the standard - no luck getting it to stop slipping though even with paste and full torque the hope clamp says - dropper post needed I think!
Hmm... strange! It goes without saying: make sure you have the exact right size seat post! As with most things in the bike industry, there are way too many different sizes in use: www.sheldonbrown.com/seatpost-sizes.html
IN THE 90'S WE USED SAND
That would work too, if your sand was fine enough!