Will: Just watched Andy's Hobby HQ video on the newly available Tamiya products. I appreciate your additional coverage and always wise guidance on these items. Thanks! Build on.
Always a quality watch and review. Great observation re: not wanting to wash out a brush if you're in a hurry or just being lazy. This really drives the home for 'why would I buy this'?
They seem to flow better over gloss paint than a flat paint or gloss varnish. Adding gloss varnish makes the groove more shallow and surface pressure is less. The flat paint requires the paint to fill in the microscopic pits before it can flow. So thin glossy paint works great.
Half of this video could could be condensed into "Other than all of the following very good reasons to use a gloss varnish, you don't need to use a gloss varnish, so why does THE INTERNET keep telling me to use a gloss varnish!?".
I've got some break in modeling and when I wanted to use the paint, my accent color was clumped at the bottom of the bottle. Do you know how to restore it?
Hey will I'm kinda paranoid about pane lining, never comes out right for me. I like my models looking factory new and full detail unless I'm going for a grungier look. I'm about to do white parts ultimately with a matte finish. Should I hit it with a coat of gloss before accent lining and the. Top it with matte?
Hey, thanks for the review. Like everyone else I greatly appreciate the video. Question: what is that "Mineral spirits" you talk about? I'm new this this hobby and I don't know much about what products I need. Thanks again.
usmc1127 yeah I could drill for oil in Texas and refine that oil and then Change the oil in my car. Or I could buy a quart of oil you tell me what is easier
I’m just getting my feet wet in camouflage painting and I really want to use the Tamiya panel line accent but I’m freaked out because it says to use it only on acrylics. My kit was painted using rattle cans (Rust-Oleum 2X coverage) which has given me very good results. I plan on applying a gloss clear coat prior to trying the panel accent. Should I be safe in using it AFTER I’ve gloss-coated the kit regardless of the paint NOT being acrylic? Thx and sorry if this subject has already been discussed.
Therein lies my problem. I’m not sure exactly what the Rust-Oleum spray paints are, enamel or lacquer? The can says “Contains Acetone, Liquified Petroleum Gas, Petroleum distillates and Xylene”. I’m not enough of a chemical engineer to suds out just what that combination adds up to. Can you decipher it?
@@markpr73 as a general rule, if it contains mineral spirits (petroleum distillates) it's an enamel. this is also why i say never use materials not explicitly labeled.
...better late than never, I agree with the last post...Great to see and hear a truly helpful tutorial, and not chest beating self loathing promotion and garbage. Thank You!!! Great vid!
Will you are the best! I thought my 1/72 Tamiya Bf 190-D9 was ruined from the extra Tamiya panel line. Your idea about mineral spirits not only worked, it gave it the look of being slightly dirty which is perfect! Especially on the tinted white belly. Many thanks!
@@uglitor this is what i got : Highlighted reply doug smith 1 day ago use a gloss or semi gloss varnish before you apply the line wash, this will protect the paint underneath you can always apply a matt finish after if you find this too shiny
Problem with these products, for me anyway, is I'm an old timer that hasn't transitioned to the acrylics and don't plan to. Many colors I use not available in acrylic; do mostly modern British aircraft/vehicles, xtracolour and white ensign make specific colours I need, not available in acrylic ranges. Most of these wash products are enamel based and require a acrylic coat to keep from dissolving the paint. Unless you develop the proper "touch". Not crazy about the whole panel accent thing anyway. Very easy to over do. Not saying it isn't right to those that do it.... if it suits you fine, not sure if I like it. That's what I like about this hobby. It's about what you like and are happy with. Unless you build for competitions, that's a whole different story though.
Thank you Thank You Thank you. At last a site and channel I can watch without loud music, or joke telling, to fast speech etc etc. Great to just sit and listen and learn quietly and as if I was sitting there with you asking and you and you answering me. Also fantastic that you tell the basics and not confuse this poor old man whos trying at this new hobby to learn the little things like this product. Have watched a dozen so far trying to work out whether a clear coat or Future etc is needed. Totally confused by it all and the different brands and opinions. But you hit it right on the head about the actual line itself below the surface. Thanks keep up the calm normal instructions.
I agree, very straight forward with good "do's & don'ts." No unnecessary profanity-not that I am goodie goodie but move along. Very good range of topics too. I can tell lots of thought has gone on before you present the subject. Keep it up.
Super expensive waste of money? I used to dilute whatever I had to hand for similar effect. I also used water colours which are much easier to work with and then seal with Matt, satin or gloss varnish.
That's a cool story but it hasn't been a waste of my money at all. Because I've been able to use the time that I didn't spend mixing more than enough oils to do the same job on other things. And I think this bottle is now something like seven years old. And still not empty.
I tried this garbage and it strips the paint when cleaning up. i am cursed with panel line wash and will try another panel wash method thanks good video.
I love these washes Will...as you already know. They are especially great for ground vehicle pin washes for a couple of reasons the mixture of the wash is just about perfect just as you state. It is thin enough to flow but thick enough to grab onto surface detail. The applicator brush almost makes perfect for surgical application right where you want it.
Are these washes only usable on top of lacquer paints? If I paint with enamels and allow them ample time to cure, can I still use these washes and clean with lighter fluid as I've seen suggested without damaging the paint? If not, would it be possible to lay down a thin layer of protective lacquer clear coat without damaging the enamel base coat?
Wish they were still that price! Went to stock up yesterday 14 bucks per bottle now! Don't know what to do if I should just go for it or Time to make my own? I've plenty old extra thin glue bottles with the brush empty as I save every bottle for some reason haha now I've just relised what there going to be useful for making panel washes!
Can this product (panel line wash) be used with matt colours or is it a must to use panel line wash over gloss coat / gloss colours? Have ordered my first panel line wash so intend to use it shortly...
Mr. Pattison, After watch your videos for a couple of years now, your experiments and skills impress more and more each time. Thank you for all you do for the modeling community... I was wondering if you could give me some advice. Personally, I love panel lines on a aircraft model. What color of wash would you use on a black aircraft? Trying to lighten the black for black panel lines wouldn't look good on this aircraft (I feel... 1/48 B-57B calling for gloss black) like some other planes (U-2, F-117 and so on). Light colors just don't feel right either. Please let me know your opinion on this subject... Thank you...
Gloss will always help maximum flow in panel lineeffect and in fact will travel twice as far depending on abtruce angles. Scrub the overflow with enamel thiner with an eye shadow sponge to remove over flow spots . Adding a clear flat lacquer coat later will remove the gloss. With the least amount of detail degradation do to paint thickness.
So have you conducted a study using some type of camera and calculated the flow rate in inches per second and compared between different types of surfaces? Because you state that like it's a fact. Lol. Also, anything called an "enamel thinner" is suspect because the reason they use that nomenclature is the presence of other compounds besides mineral spirits that are likely to be hotter and cause problems. Just stick to something that says 100% mineral spirits.
If my basecoats are made with acrylic paints. Can I still skip the gloss varnish part without having to worry the mineral spirits / thinner melting the acrylic when I'm wiping off the excess panel line wash?
Much Love indeed... You speak your mind, THAT I do love!!! I plan on getting these, if for nothing else, to play and learn with, :-)Well done, Young Son, very well done!!
You probably figured this out, but it can definitely be applied to bare plastic. It's actually easier cleaning it up off bare plastic than off a painted surface.
The problem I'm having is unintentionally removing recessed areas that are pin washed. Is there anything that can remedy that. Generally I'm letting the pin was dry for 15-30 minutes. Should I wait longer? In advance, thanks for any advice. - Alex, San Diego, CA
the struggle is real. i barely dip a q-tip in mineral spirits, then dab it on a paper towel, THEN use it very delicately. if i still can't get satisfied, i may turn to oils...or rescribe the line.
@@barpfoto Thabks for the heads up, man. Yeah, I'm gonna do some trial and error to figure out an SOP for this task. I bought this stuff made my a TH-cam modeler, Flory's Wash. It's supposed to make this task more straight forward and a lot less tedious.
I don't know if you will see this, but what kind of paint are you using? when I use the wash, it just acts like thinner and wipes the paint off. Im using testors and model master paints. Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks. I recently acquired a bottle of the black, and I've been wanting to see how to use it. I have a canister of mineral spirits to use as well. BUT can I also use some Mr Color Leveling Thinner ?
Hi, I'm new to the panel lines, I painted the kit with tamita pure white, when I use thinner with a cotten swab to get rid of the marks of panel lines, the marks dont seem to want to come off, and when I rub hard the ink smudges all over, is it because the paint is not dried enough? Or something else?? I see in videos people have their marks come off with like a touch even with the same stuff I'm using...... Please help!! Thanks!!
tplw can be difficult to remove. I assume you're using minerals spirits so you are doing the right thing. Just kind of have to develop the right touch for it. If you get smudges, come back with clean swab.
Good points regarding the Matt or Gloss surface for adding washes to. Like you I have no problem laying the wash on a Matt surface - gives a fine result. I will have to get my hands on some of that stuff. Cheers dude....
+Jim TheModeller very cool. It's one of those things that's just evolved for me over the course of a number of projects, but I've been gratified to learn that someone like Mike Rinaldi is a proponent of the same thing.
Thank you for the very informative video. I am new to modeling and have been thinking about using the Tamiya panel line washes however I have heard they can damage or crack un primed plastic pieces. Have you heard or experienced anything to this effect? You say you use mineral spirits to clean up the panel wash, how does this compare to enamel/paint thinner is it less toxic and safer to use? Thank you in advance for your reply.
dunno who told you that but you might want to never believe anything else they say. lol ;) as for things called "enamel thinner"....as a rule i never use them. ingredients unknown but often contain xylene. stick to 100% mineral spirits. keep it simple.
For me, mineral spirits seems to wipe all my paint off, even the varnish. Thank god I tried it on a model I didn't really care about. Anyone have a solution for this? Is it just the amount of mineral spirits?
@@barpfoto Funny, I tried it again on the same model it worked fine. I think I just didn't wait long enough for the varnish coat to dry. Probably should let it sit for 24 hours. Ah well, good thing I learned that early. I do like the quality of the capillary effect with the Tamiya liner paints.
If I wanted to do a top coat before panel washing with this product to reduce the possibility of cracks what kind of top coat would I need? Acrylic, enamel, lacquer, etc. I'm new to this hobby, and this is all a bit daunting.
I've read that using enamel thinners on certain plastics (Bandai in particular) can sometimes cause damage if you don't apply the correct top coat beforehand.
i'm a pro modeler and let me just say, gloss coats are dumb and waste of $$.....decals and washes go fine WITHOUT them. Whether you give a final clear flat is still doable ;)
I've done this with India ink in the past - got some of Tamiya 's product on order, primarily because I hope that it's a little more convenient to use. I haven't bought any ink in years, but the various art supply stores in town used to have a pretty wide selection of colored inks in stock, and more available by order - from them, or from the web... The blessing and curse with inks is that they are alcohol based - shellac thinner aka de-natured alcohol is their best solvent, although rubbing alcohol works pretty well.... the curse part of this is that acrylic paints are also alcohol based, and you can all too easily get a muddy result or even strip off the base coat if you aren't both careful and lucky when mopping up excess from the adjacent surfaces. Sometimes, when you are weathering the model, you can make that solubility work for you. So, an enamel with a nice thin viscosity but good surface tension may work better over acrylic pants...
Hello, so I was recently ordered the Bandai R2D2 + BB8 kit, I noticed that I will have to paint a metallic silver on both the models, since the plastic is more grey than silver. I am confused on how to go about the painting bit. I don’t plan on using a primer, maybe paint Testors Silver paint for the R2D2 head. Post which I would like to do some panel lining on the head. My question is, while I rub the excess of panel lining paint, won’t it also peel of the base silver enamel paint? Do I have to gloss coat it before panel lining so that I don’t ruin the base silver coat?
Alright, thanks a ton. I will check my options available for primers in my country before I do an acrylic silver coat. And Tamiya (enamel based) accent lines for the final panel lining. Will I need to gloss coat after acrylic painting + weathering (Tamiya kit C), before I do the panel lining?
Noted :) I hope this workflow works for me: Tamiya Primer (Grey) >> Tamiya Acrylics (Gloss Finish X Series) + X20A Thinner >> Water Decals >> TS-13 Gloss Coat >> Tamiya Enamel Lining >> Clean with Tamiya X20 Enamel thinner >> Tamiya Weathering Kit >> TS-13 Gloss Coat. I just hope that the water decals or the Enamel thinner doesn't wash off the acrylic paints under the Gloss coat.
hello, great video. i have a problem... you use mineral spirits (like zippo fuel) to remove the panel line and you do not remove the color under the panel line (the green one). my questions is: which kind of coating do you use befor panel line? panel line is enamel...which is the one under? thx a lot
Will: Just watched Andy's Hobby HQ video on the newly available Tamiya products. I appreciate your additional coverage and always wise guidance on these items. Thanks! Build on.
Always a quality watch and review.
Great observation re: not wanting to wash out a brush if you're in a hurry or just being lazy. This really drives the home for 'why would I buy this'?
They seem to flow better over gloss paint than a flat paint or gloss varnish.
Adding gloss varnish makes the groove more shallow and surface pressure is less. The flat paint requires the paint to fill in the microscopic pits before it can flow. So thin glossy paint works great.
Good video.Thank you.
Your cat is a sweet-looking Kitty. 😍
Very helpful Will. Thank you for posting this!
Thanks for sharing. I am considering purchasing for my weathering.
Just ordered a couple of these, good to know I dont have to gloss first, Thanks.
Half of this video could could be condensed into "Other than all of the following very good reasons to use a gloss varnish, you don't need to use a gloss varnish, so why does THE INTERNET keep telling me to use a gloss varnish!?".
I've got some break in modeling and when I wanted to use the paint, my accent color was clumped at the bottom of the bottle. Do you know how to restore it?
Very helpful, does u have have to use any special thinners to clean up?... also what do u use to set it decals?
use the same solvent as your panel lining
thanks i hope to get those panel line washes soon
Hello will,its that permanent marker,i panel line my model kit my finger is always wet,it's that ink not easily removed?
Hey will I'm kinda paranoid about pane lining, never comes out right for me. I like my models looking factory new and full detail unless I'm going for a grungier look. I'm about to do white parts ultimately with a matte finish. Should I hit it with a coat of gloss before accent lining and the. Top it with matte?
yup. if you like the tight, clean look, a gloss is the way to go.
What kind of paint is the wing painted with?
I may give them a try.
Thanks for that. Just a question: what is on that Qtip, I didn't get it....
mineral spirit for USA and mineral turpentine for AUSTRALIA. not to be confused with Methylated spirits.
Mineral spirit has a better solvency, and leaves little to no residue.
how did you clean please?
use the same solvent as your panel lining
Hello o really want to buy those tamiya panel line accent, where can i find those?is there any website that i can buy with international shipping?
Hey, thanks for the review. Like everyone else I greatly appreciate the video. Question: what is that "Mineral spirits" you talk about? I'm new this this hobby and I don't know much about what products I need. Thanks again.
usmc1127 yeah I could drill for oil in Texas and refine that oil and then Change the oil in my car. Or I could buy a quart of oil you tell me what is easier
I’m just getting my feet wet in camouflage painting and I really want to use the Tamiya panel line accent but I’m freaked out because it says to use it only on acrylics. My kit was painted using rattle cans (Rust-Oleum 2X coverage) which has given me very good results. I plan on applying a gloss clear coat prior to trying the panel accent. Should I be safe in using it AFTER I’ve gloss-coated the kit regardless of the paint NOT being acrylic? Thx and sorry if this subject has already been discussed.
no worries. it's an enamel so the ONLY thing you shouldn't use it on is another enamel.
Therein lies my problem. I’m not sure exactly what the Rust-Oleum spray paints are, enamel or lacquer? The can says “Contains Acetone, Liquified Petroleum Gas, Petroleum distillates and Xylene”. I’m not enough of a chemical engineer to suds out just what that combination adds up to. Can you decipher it?
@@markpr73 as a general rule, if it contains mineral spirits (petroleum distillates) it's an enamel. this is also why i say never use materials not explicitly labeled.
Thanks very much!
...better late than never, I agree with the last post...Great to see and hear a truly helpful tutorial, and not chest beating self loathing promotion and garbage. Thank You!!! Great vid!
Will you are the best! I thought my 1/72 Tamiya Bf 190-D9 was ruined from the extra Tamiya panel line. Your idea about mineral spirits not only worked, it gave it the look of being slightly dirty which is perfect! Especially on the tinted white belly. Many thanks!
Good review Will, especially interesting for me being a new (old) modeller who finds this subject a bit daunting.
Screw Amazon. Support your local hobby shop if it's still in business. Nice video though.
May i ask if it will also wear away a little of the acrylic paint job when rubbing with a q tip when removing the excess panel wash
I am very interested on this too. If you manage to find out, please share the knowledge :)
@@uglitor this is what i got :
Highlighted reply
doug smith
1 day ago
use a gloss or semi gloss varnish before you apply the line wash, this will protect the paint underneath you can always apply a matt finish after if you find this too shiny
gloss top coat the paint first before applying panel lining it should give the paint some protection
How long do i let the gliss coat dry before applying the black wash.
Problem with these products, for me anyway, is I'm an old timer that hasn't transitioned to the acrylics and don't plan to. Many colors I use not available in acrylic; do mostly modern British aircraft/vehicles, xtracolour and white ensign make specific colours I need, not available in acrylic ranges. Most of these wash products are enamel based and require a acrylic coat to keep from dissolving the paint. Unless you develop the proper "touch". Not crazy about the whole panel accent thing anyway. Very easy to over do. Not saying it isn't right to those that do it.... if it suits you fine, not sure if I like it. That's what I like about this hobby. It's about what you like and are happy with. Unless you build for competitions, that's a whole different story though.
Thank you Thank You Thank you. At last a site and channel I can watch without loud music, or joke telling, to fast speech etc etc. Great to just sit and listen and learn quietly and as if I was sitting there with you asking and you and you answering me. Also fantastic that you tell the basics and not confuse this poor old man whos trying at this new hobby to learn the little things like this product. Have watched a dozen so far trying to work out whether a clear coat or Future etc is needed. Totally confused by it all and the different brands and opinions. But you hit it right on the head about the actual line itself below the surface. Thanks keep up the calm normal instructions.
thanks for the kind words, sir and i shall endeavor to keep earning them! :D
I agree, very straight forward with good "do's & don'ts." No unnecessary profanity-not that I am goodie goodie but move along. Very good range of topics too. I can tell lots of thought has gone on before you present the subject. Keep it up.
Super expensive waste of money? I used to dilute whatever I had to hand for similar effect. I also used water colours which are much easier to work with and then seal with Matt, satin or gloss varnish.
That's a cool story but it hasn't been a waste of my money at all. Because I've been able to use the time that I didn't spend mixing more than enough oils to do the same job on other things. And I think this bottle is now something like seven years old. And still not empty.
I use Vallejo air paints, and shine with gazuzy gloss, can I use this tamiya accent over the gazuzy gloss without eating my paints?
yup. Just make sure you use plain mineral spirits to remove excess.
It would sure be nice if the black was available, every place I've checked they were out and didnt know when it would be available.
July 2021, is it still not available?
i use the black a lot !the brown i find it very light and some times you almost cant see it! loved your review... thanks for sharing it
I tried this garbage and it strips the paint when cleaning up. i am cursed with panel line wash and will try another panel wash method thanks good video.
It's not the panel line wash. It's what you're using to clean it up. Use 100% mineral spirits only.
Ok what about silver paint ? Will it work as well ?
I love these washes Will...as you already know. They are especially great for ground vehicle pin washes for a couple of reasons the mixture of the wash is just about perfect just as you state. It is thin enough to flow but thick enough to grab onto surface detail. The applicator brush almost makes perfect for surgical application right where you want it.
I've got to say, I really enjoy your videos. As an older modeler I always enjoy adding a new trick to my hat. Keep up the great work !!
Good job. Bought these yesterday. I love your cat at the end too.
Is it safe over Mr. Color Super Clear 3?
Are these washes only usable on top of lacquer paints? If I paint with enamels and allow them ample time to cure, can I still use these washes and clean with lighter fluid as I've seen suggested without damaging the paint? If not, would it be possible to lay down a thin layer of protective lacquer clear coat without damaging the enamel base coat?
you are stealing the Tamiya fanboy shirt right off Andy.... LOL. well done
+Norm Lajoie No, I just let him borrow it for this one video, Norm....:)
+TacticalJackalope lol
Wish they were still that price! Went to stock up yesterday 14 bucks per bottle now! Don't know what to do if I should just go for it or Time to make my own? I've plenty old extra thin glue bottles with the brush empty as I save every bottle for some reason haha now I've just relised what there going to be useful for making panel washes!
I find the Black Panel Line Accent too dark, but it lightens up with a Gunmetal Grey Wash over it, once it's dry of course.
Can this product (panel line wash) be used with matt colours or is it a must to use panel line wash over gloss coat / gloss colours? Have ordered my first panel line wash so intend to use it shortly...
Hi from Barcelona ! Liked your video very much, it's instructive and well done, looking forward to see more stuff in the future. Josep
Tami- ah
My panel wash will not work. It doesn’t run and fill the gaps. Any ideas
This guy rarely answers a question, dont waste you time
You're not wrong. I don't really use TH-cam as a social media platform but I am pretty easy to find on Facebook if you have questions.
@@barpfoto
You have great info just wish you would answer a few questions because you have alot of knowledge
Good run down. Just bought the black and grey panel accent from tamiya
Mr. Pattison, After watch your videos for a couple of years now, your experiments and skills impress more and more each time. Thank you for all you do for the modeling community... I was wondering if you could give me some advice. Personally, I love panel lines on a aircraft model. What color of wash would you use on a black aircraft? Trying to lighten the black for black panel lines wouldn't look good on this aircraft (I feel... 1/48 B-57B calling for gloss black) like some other planes (U-2, F-117 and so on). Light colors just don't feel right either. Please let me know your opinion on this subject... Thank you...
Gloss will always help maximum flow in panel lineeffect and in fact will travel twice as far depending on abtruce angles. Scrub the overflow with enamel thiner with an eye shadow sponge to remove over flow spots . Adding a clear flat lacquer coat later will remove the gloss. With the least amount of detail degradation do to paint thickness.
So have you conducted a study using some type of camera and calculated the flow rate in inches per second and compared between different types of surfaces? Because you state that like it's a fact. Lol. Also, anything called an "enamel thinner" is suspect because the reason they use that nomenclature is the presence of other compounds besides mineral spirits that are likely to be hotter and cause problems. Just stick to something that says 100% mineral spirits.
Can I ask what mineral spirit is? Is it teh same as normal enamel thinner?
Good video .. I been using them for bit now . I used them for interior only .. They are very good for interior
Rick
If my basecoats are made with acrylic paints. Can I still skip the gloss varnish part without having to worry the mineral spirits / thinner melting the acrylic when I'm wiping off the excess panel line wash?
yes.
Also what are you wiping the cotton bud on with ? A thinner
Much Love indeed... You speak your mind, THAT I do love!!! I plan on getting these, if for nothing else, to play and learn with, :-)Well done, Young Son, very well done!!
Can I use them when painting figures?
No, this only works on model kits.
I don't see why not. Just remember that it's basically enamel and thinner, so be careful what you apply it on.
Various Shades of Grade.
Good name for a movie
I've looked at a few online sites and I'm having difficulty locating these panel line accents. Where have you been able to find them?
I should have waited until the end of the vid! LOL
does the kit needs to be covered with TopCoat first? or can be applied directly to bare plastic. I build gundams by the way.
You probably figured this out, but it can definitely be applied to bare plastic. It's actually easier cleaning it up off bare plastic than off a painted surface.
Great convenient product and ideally suited to aircraft I'd say
Great video. Question: Are Mineral Spirits safe on bare Acrylic paints? Only effects the enamel panel liner?
generally yes, just always be conservative. use minimum amounts and don't do any scrubbing.
The problem I'm having is unintentionally removing recessed areas that are pin washed. Is there anything that can remedy that. Generally I'm letting the pin was dry for 15-30 minutes. Should I wait longer? In advance, thanks for any advice. - Alex, San Diego, CA
the struggle is real. i barely dip a q-tip in mineral spirits, then dab it on a paper towel, THEN use it very delicately. if i still can't get satisfied, i may turn to oils...or rescribe the line.
@@barpfoto Thabks for the heads up, man. Yeah, I'm gonna do some trial and error to figure out an SOP for this task. I bought this stuff made my a TH-cam modeler, Flory's Wash. It's supposed to make this task more straight forward and a lot less tedious.
I can't any online places that sell this stuff. except amazon but they are selling them for 17 each
hm. i got 3 for 25. try also hobbyworld-usa.
I don't know if you will see this, but what kind of paint are you using? when I use the wash, it just acts like thinner and wipes the paint off. Im using testors and model master paints. Any help would be appreciated!
lacquer or acrylic. if you use enamels, you will have a bad time.
@@barpfoto ok thanks!
...your reviews are brilliant! Great stuff thanks for the tips and please keep them coming...
Thanks. I recently acquired a bottle of the black, and I've been wanting to see how to use it. I have a canister of mineral spirits to use as well. BUT can I also use some Mr Color Leveling Thinner ?
absolutely NOT.
@@barpfoto okay thanks
Hi, I'm new to the panel lines, I painted the kit with tamita pure white, when I use thinner with a cotten swab to get rid of the marks of panel lines, the marks dont seem to want to come off, and when I rub hard the ink smudges all over, is it because the paint is not dried enough? Or something else?? I see in videos people have their marks come off with like a touch even with the same stuff I'm using...... Please help!! Thanks!!
Ps: the paint has been left to dry for around 12 hours before I applyed panel wash...
tplw can be difficult to remove. I assume you're using minerals spirits so you are doing the right thing. Just kind of have to develop the right touch for it. If you get smudges, come back with clean swab.
You cant by this in the uk 😭
Can't find it online?
@@CompetitionChris yes, on ebay for roughly £7.00
Good points regarding the Matt or Gloss surface for adding washes to. Like you I have no problem laying the wash on a Matt surface - gives a fine result. I will have to get my hands on some of that stuff. Cheers dude....
+Jim TheModeller very cool. It's one of those things that's just evolved for me over the course of a number of projects, but I've been gratified to learn that someone like Mike Rinaldi is a proponent of the same thing.
Thank you for the very informative video. I am new to modeling and have been thinking about using the Tamiya panel line washes however I have heard they can damage or crack un primed plastic pieces. Have you heard or experienced anything to this effect? You say you use mineral spirits to clean up the panel wash, how does this compare to enamel/paint thinner is it less toxic and safer to use? Thank you in advance for your reply.
dunno who told you that but you might want to never believe anything else they say. lol ;) as for things called "enamel thinner"....as a rule i never use them. ingredients unknown but often contain xylene. stick to 100% mineral spirits. keep it simple.
Thank you for your reply
As a builder of Gunpla, I have had it attack plastic only once. I always try to wipe off the excess as quickly as I can.
For me, mineral spirits seems to wipe all my paint off, even the varnish. Thank god I tried it on a model I didn't really care about. Anyone have a solution for this? Is it just the amount of mineral spirits?
which specific brand?
@@barpfoto That might help. Maybe the brand I got is way to strong? What brand are you using?
@@rexxthunder anything that says 100% mineral spirits. NOT enamel thinners.
@@barpfoto Funny, I tried it again on the same model it worked fine. I think I just didn't wait long enough for the varnish coat to dry. Probably should let it sit for 24 hours. Ah well, good thing I learned that early. I do like the quality of the capillary effect with the Tamiya liner paints.
Great tips, thanks.
If I wanted to do a top coat before panel washing with this product to reduce the possibility of cracks what kind of top coat would I need? Acrylic, enamel, lacquer, etc. I'm new to this hobby, and this is all a bit daunting.
cracks?
I've read that using enamel thinners on certain plastics (Bandai in particular) can sometimes cause damage if you don't apply the correct top coat beforehand.
these people are apparently using far too much. the only issue might be in joints where bandai uses different materials.
i'm a pro modeler and let me just say, gloss coats are dumb and waste of $$.....decals and washes go fine WITHOUT them. Whether you give a final clear flat is still doable ;)
So one doesn't need to protect the underlying acrylic paint from the mineral spirits with a varnish coat?
@@uglitor With acrylics, NOW that you must do!
@@kaysee88 Thanks! 👍
where can you buy that mineral spirit thing you mentioned? My english is not the best so what is that?
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit
@@barpfoto Thank you. So its kind of like a thinner right as I understoon right
This panel line obsession is ridiculous. Always ends up looking exaggerated and out-of-scale.
not if it's done right.
@@barpfoto By "always" I meant always.
@@NoTaboos cool story. of all the opinions out there, yours is certainly one of them.
I've done this with India ink in the past - got some of Tamiya 's product on order, primarily because I hope that it's a little more convenient to use.
I haven't bought any ink in years, but the various art supply stores in town used to have a pretty wide selection of colored inks in stock, and more available by order - from them, or from the web...
The blessing and curse with inks is that they are alcohol based - shellac thinner aka de-natured alcohol is their best solvent, although rubbing alcohol works pretty well.... the curse part of this is that acrylic paints are also alcohol based, and you can all too easily get a muddy result or even strip off the base coat if you aren't both careful and lucky when mopping up excess from the adjacent surfaces.
Sometimes, when you are weathering the model, you can make that solubility work for you.
So, an enamel with a nice thin viscosity but good surface tension may work better over acrylic pants...
Hello, so I was recently ordered the Bandai R2D2 + BB8 kit, I noticed that I will have to paint a metallic silver on both the models, since the plastic is more grey than silver.
I am confused on how to go about the painting bit. I don’t plan on using a primer, maybe paint Testors Silver paint for the R2D2 head. Post which I would like to do some panel lining on the head. My question is, while I rub the excess of panel lining paint, won’t it also peel of the base silver enamel paint? Do I have to gloss coat it before panel lining so that I don’t ruin the base silver coat?
always prime. never use enamels for painting. then you'll have no issues.
Alright, thanks a ton. I will check my options available for primers in my country before I do an acrylic silver coat. And Tamiya (enamel based) accent lines for the final panel lining. Will I need to gloss coat after acrylic painting + weathering (Tamiya kit C), before I do the panel lining?
depends on the effect you want. washes flow tighter on gloss and tend to bleed out on a matte coat. and use 100% mineral spirits only for cleanup.
Noted :)
I hope this workflow works for me:
Tamiya Primer (Grey) >> Tamiya Acrylics (Gloss Finish X Series) + X20A Thinner >> Water Decals >> TS-13 Gloss Coat >> Tamiya Enamel Lining >> Clean with Tamiya X20 Enamel thinner >> Tamiya Weathering Kit >> TS-13 Gloss Coat.
I just hope that the water decals or the Enamel thinner doesn't wash off the acrylic paints under the Gloss coat.
Nice review!
Great review! And just a question, have you ever experienced accidental removal of the color below when you clean the excess with the mineral spirit?
nupe. if that happens, you're using too much mineral spirits or rubbing way too hard. or trying to do it on top of another enamel....
@@barpfoto thank you very much!
@@fmascia This is why people top coat.
Very good
very helpful, thanks!
Great review, thax for sharing.
Great review Will !!
Thanks for the review
can i use enamel thinner? instead of spirit
"enamel thinner" may contain anything. stick to 100% mineral spirits.
hello, great video. i have a problem... you use mineral spirits (like zippo fuel) to remove the panel line and you do not remove the color under the panel line (the green one). my questions is: which kind of coating do you use befor panel line? panel line is enamel...which is the one under? thx a lot
acrylic or lacquer.
will pattison thank you so much
Once dried, can you paint over them with Tamiya Acrylics?
yep. and soon. it's not like with oil blending.
Thank you! this does seem nice and easy! after seeing it on here I went out and bought the black, grey and brown washes