Another first time solderer here. I SWEAR I WAS JUST ABOUT TO GIVE UP!!!! Then I decided to try to find another way to solder. Thank you so much for this video. I'm in dire need to solder to an aviator plug for my diesel space heater in this winter weather. Again, thank you so much.
First time solderer here trying to get an aviation plug wired up and omg this video seems like pure genius compared to the way I was trying to do it! Thank you so much!
it's kind of amazing how effective is that little bit of solder for the heat bridge. Makes a huge difference in heat transfer and effectiveness of soldering.
on the male plug you can pull out the pins by grabbing them on the soldered end and pull them out of the base. Overheating of the rubber mount/support will cause the pins to be loose. my light went on too mate!
Couple things you could do better: (I do realize this video is old, but maybe someone else can look at this comment and get guidance as well) 1. Clean the tip of your iron more-- as soon as you hit it with the sponge, you have like 30 seconds to solder, otherwise you are introducing oxidation. If it starts to turn yellow, clean it. gently clean it with a paper towel first so as you don't burn a bunch of solder into your sponge. Tin it again before you put it back in the holder 2. No use of flux. Use flux... You had plenty of space here to use it. 3. You tinned the pins too much, you should have tinned them, then used a wick to pull out all the excess you built up.. then used a spare bit of wire to wick out more from the center of the pin, before you actually solder it. 4. Get a set of helping hands to hold the wires in place, it'll make it much easier for positioning. keep as straight (in this case, vertical) wire entry position as possible. 5. Clean!! clean clean clean clean. Use IPA or denatured alcohol and a brush to clean literally everything. Clean your Solder before you use it. Clean your parts before you tin and flux them. Clean afterwards. Get brushes and use them. 6. Hard to tell here, but it looks like your insulators may be cut back a tad far in same cases, or too close in others. rule is that from the connection, it should not exceed 2 wire diameters (including the insulation), but the insulation should not be touching the connection. I generally aim for 1 wire diameter spacing, which is plenty and easy enough to do. 7. Use cutters to cut your solder after every use, get that gunky monkey fist off and expose the clean rosin core, again, so you aren't introducing a bunch of oxidation into the solder 8. When you strip the wires, don't just pull the cut jacket off with the stripper. Leave it on, then pull it off with your fingers while squeezing and twisting, this will keep the wires bunched up perfectly. I'd suggest maybe taking a look at the NASA manual for soldering. It breaks it down pretty simply. I believe there are several videos available demonstrating it here on youtube.
Good tips, but you forgot one of the key ones: you admit the solder to the wire opposite the soldering iron, not between the iron and the wire. That can leave a cold joint as the solder can melt into the wire on the hot side before the “cold” side opposite the iron is ready to take solder. The solder should ALWAYS be melted by the wire, not the iron.
The OP is being far too generous here. There are A LOT of things that could have been done better in this demonstration. The beveled edge tip you were using on your soldering iron is a bit too large for this type of work, and yet even with the temperature cranked way up you are having difficulty getting the solder to wet and flow Inside the cupped end of the pins, which indicates poor quality, sloppy fitting tips that don't mate to the heating element well and made of metals with poor heat transfer (a common problem when people buy their solder, fkux and tips directly from China or Asia through Amazon or ebay, AliExpress or Bangood or whatever). Perhaps the solder itself or the flux contained within is of less than stellar quality because it's not wetting and flowing by capillary action into the pins. Additional rosin flux added to the pins beforehand would certainly help. Cleaning the pins with alcohol and tooth brush would be good; cleaning them with a fiberglass-bristles "scratch brush" would have been even better. Even new connectors will sometimes have some grease or oxidation on the pins when they leave the factory or by the time they arrive to you. You should have twisted the wires after stripping the insulation back, before tinning them all, and you should have taken great care to strip all the wires back by the exact same amount. The insulated portions of the wires should be no more than twice the diameter of the jacketed wire away from the end of the pins where the solder stops......
I have been trying to find the correct way to solder thin circuit wires to a very similar panel mount connector (but for use as a connector socket on a high-end speaker for a computer). Your techniques and practical tips are exactly what I needed for my speaker job. Thanks for demonstrating how to get the job done properly.
Hi, I did quite a bit of soldering on similar plugs - same half-pipe style. Those were XT-60 RC plugs. What I did, just like you did, was to twist and solder ends of the wire - but I applied some paste flux, then I applied paste flux on the connector - into the half-pipe, placed the tinned end of the wire in the half-pipe and applied heat to the connector while feeding the solder. Then, when solder started melting, it joined pre-tinned wire and remelted the solder creating very clean and strong bond. I only had to add very little solder, when soldering the wire in, as it pulled excess from the wire. I think the paste flux did the trick as it etched the connector a bit allowing for better flow of soldering alloy. You could also try to use SMD soldering paste, it's a mixture of paste flux and solder particulates, it does very clean solder joints but it's somewhat expensive, I paid an equivalent of like 3 GBP per 15g syringe. I hope you or someone else finds those suggestions helpful. Have fun, My CNC project is half done.
you got it ! also if you use 1mm solder to tin thick wires your adding more solder faster thus reducing how much the isolation shrinks back. Also adding heat shrink over the individual solder joints would help with the aesthetics.
Hi there, thank you for posting this video, really helpful Quick tip To help control the heat, dissipation and deforming, the pins it’s best to connect the female and male together when soldering, some people think it will take longer to heat up, but this is false. If you have a good quality soldering iron, which can apply the heat quickly and reduce deforming the pins it helps
Hi. Have noticed you pull very soon the solder iron from the connection. That way you are not letting the solder from the wire and pin to become one solid piece by melting completely. It may seem to be strong but sometimes it fails.
What did you use to test your wiring afterwards (time mark 7:25). I got it soldered and fix but when I plugged it in - sparks and smoke!! Great tutorial - saved me a lot of time.
My solder joints always seem to corrode, and the wire eventually breaks off. Is it the flux causing this? Are you using rosin core or a separate container for your flux?
Rosen flux contained within high-quality leaded solder is pretty much inert and non-corrosive; rosin flux that is separate from the solder isn't corrosive either, BUT if you are buying solder or flux direct from China via Amazon, ebay Bangood or AliExpress it's usually junk and the flux might be of the highly acidic, corrosive type used for soldering sheet metal and water pipes. The special fluxes contained within, and designed for use with, lead-free solder are also corrosive, and traces of leadfree must be thoroughly removed for long-term reliability of the connections (isopropyl alcohol will remove most fluxes, but some leadfree fluxes wash off with with water). Another possibility is that the inslation of the wires, which is often PVC or some other chlorine-based compound, may start to react chemically with the copper, especially after the wire and insulation has been heated. Some cheap quality wiring will outgas or leech chemicals from the insulation and cause internal corrosion where you can't even necessarily see it. Anyway, your best recourse is to buy brand name solder, flux, and soldering-iron tips from an authorized electronics-specialty distributor in your home country. Amazon and the rest are often non-transparent as to who is actually selling and shipping the solder; shoddy, fake and counterfeit solder and soldering products are everywhere on the internet. I will also add that unless you are selling the products you make, there is absolutely no reason for a hobbyist to be using lead-free solder, which is extremely difficult to work with and has a higher melting point than leaded solder, and is much less forgiving about the quality and cleanliness and oxidation layer on the parts you are soldering. Leaded solder is not toxic unless you are chewing on it, and the fumes (flux vapors) may be mildly irritating to your nose but they will not give you lead poisoning. Solder in a well ventilated area or use a fan to blow the fumes away. ( The fumes from lead free solder and its attendant special fluxes are far more caustic to your sinuses)..
@@pierregauthier3077 , I've been soldering electronics for over 50 years, including 2 decades as an audio equipment repair tech; as a kid I was mentored by other, older electronics experts, and since I can't take what I've learned with me when I croak, I may as well help others out while I still can. By the way, I have a couple of soldering-related videos on my channel; and there's a series of soldering videos on the PaceWorldwide TH-cam channel that you may find helpful (they're friom the 1970's, very old school, but extremely detailed; one of their videos is about soldering similar connectors to what you see here on this channel, except that the soldering techniques shown in this here video are decidedly substandard ).
Please, take no offense....................for a hobby environment I guess this soldering would suffice........but if you were doing work for a defense contractor...as you state these are used in aviation...QC would reject your work in a heartbeat. I am an IPC specialist to J standard 001.......Your wire was heated so hot insulation was shrunk to over 2 wire diameters when the wires were soldered into the cup.....reject. I saw no flux use at all.......You also filled the cups with way too much solder.....and when you heat the cup up and try to insert a cold wire into a heated cup the wires usually fray and you have strands soldered to the outside of the cup, possibly touching an adjacent cup...............and a panavise works much better than a wooden block.
Gonna agree with everything above. I've worked for a major US defense contractor and aircraft builder for 25 years and I was a NASA and J std soldering instructor. For hobby grade- it's passable. Also as far as calling them "aviation connectors" just because those connectors would look snazzy on an aircraft panel or bulkhead, they are far from flight quality.
It's the beauty of this. Yesterday I killed myself trying to solder the aviation panel and gave up. Today there is someone I do not know and who does not know me, made my day. I solder everything in 5 minutes. thank you :)~
You may actually want to redirect people to this 9 Step Soldering Lesson: th-cam.com/play/PL926EC0F1F93C1837.html At least that's where I got my soldering skills from.
Found your video first when I started looking for what I'm doing wrong... it was great and I certainly appreciated I wasnt alone in the struggle. I did find a link to another post that show how to solder cup joints and it make it look even easier. It's old school, and really only talks about the cups and does not mention lockdown/clamping/etc. But both that one and this really help me. Thank you! The other was: th-cam.com/video/_GLeCt_u3U8/w-d-xo.html
The PaceWorldwide TH-cam channel has a series of excellent tutorial videos on soldering. They likely date from the 1970's ! but are extremely thorough and have excellent pictorial diagrams and demonstrations of soldering and desoldering.
ormal human use heat srink this too ewery wire. not perfect soldering but work. aviation plug in plane i not accept this but hobby user about stepper motor connection has ok, too heavy wire gauge has only this. no need ,because stepper motors no have many if use 5A current more no need big awg wire too.
What not to do. This video was awful. Once I saw you move on after the red connector was dangling by a thread I laughed and posted this comment and moved on to the next vide...... **SSHHHHHHH** (radio silence)
Another first time solderer here. I SWEAR I WAS JUST ABOUT TO GIVE UP!!!! Then I decided to try to find another way to solder. Thank you so much for this video. I'm in dire need to solder to an aviator plug for my diesel space heater in this winter weather. Again, thank you so much.
First time solderer here trying to get an aviation plug wired up and omg this video seems like pure genius compared to the way I was trying to do it! Thank you so much!
it's kind of amazing how effective is that little bit of solder for the heat bridge. Makes a huge difference in heat transfer and effectiveness of soldering.
on the male plug you can pull out the pins by grabbing them on the soldered end and pull them out of the base. Overheating of the rubber mount/support will cause the pins to be loose. my light went on too mate!
Couple things you could do better: (I do realize this video is old, but maybe someone else can look at this comment and get guidance as well)
1. Clean the tip of your iron more-- as soon as you hit it with the sponge, you have like 30 seconds to solder, otherwise you are introducing oxidation. If it starts to turn yellow, clean it. gently clean it with a paper towel first so as you don't burn a bunch of solder into your sponge. Tin it again before you put it back in the holder
2. No use of flux. Use flux... You had plenty of space here to use it.
3. You tinned the pins too much, you should have tinned them, then used a wick to pull out all the excess you built up.. then used a spare bit of wire to wick out more from the center of the pin, before you actually solder it.
4. Get a set of helping hands to hold the wires in place, it'll make it much easier for positioning. keep as straight (in this case, vertical) wire entry position as possible.
5. Clean!! clean clean clean clean. Use IPA or denatured alcohol and a brush to clean literally everything. Clean your Solder before you use it. Clean your parts before you tin and flux them. Clean afterwards. Get brushes and use them.
6. Hard to tell here, but it looks like your insulators may be cut back a tad far in same cases, or too close in others. rule is that from the connection, it should not exceed 2 wire diameters (including the insulation), but the insulation should not be touching the connection. I generally aim for 1 wire diameter spacing, which is plenty and easy enough to do.
7. Use cutters to cut your solder after every use, get that gunky monkey fist off and expose the clean rosin core, again, so you aren't introducing a bunch of oxidation into the solder
8. When you strip the wires, don't just pull the cut jacket off with the stripper. Leave it on, then pull it off with your fingers while squeezing and twisting, this will keep the wires bunched up perfectly.
I'd suggest maybe taking a look at the NASA manual for soldering. It breaks it down pretty simply. I believe there are several videos available demonstrating it here on youtube.
Nasa have a manual for soldering? Is that like for zero gravity electronics? Thanks for the tips though.
Thank you for this comment, I found it hugely helpful!
Good tips, but you forgot one of the key ones: you admit the solder to the wire opposite the soldering iron, not between the iron and the wire. That can leave a cold joint as the solder can melt into the wire on the hot side before the “cold” side opposite the iron is ready to take solder. The solder should ALWAYS be melted by the wire, not the iron.
The OP is being far too generous here. There are A LOT of things that could have been done better in this demonstration. The beveled edge tip you were using on your soldering iron is a bit too large for this type of work, and yet even with the temperature cranked way up you are having difficulty getting the solder to wet and flow Inside the cupped end of the pins, which indicates poor quality, sloppy fitting tips that don't mate to the heating element well and made of metals with poor heat transfer (a common problem when people buy their solder, fkux and tips directly from China or Asia through Amazon or ebay, AliExpress or Bangood or whatever). Perhaps the solder itself or the flux contained within is of less than stellar quality because it's not wetting and flowing by capillary action into the pins. Additional rosin flux added to the pins beforehand would certainly help. Cleaning the pins with alcohol and tooth brush would be good; cleaning them with a fiberglass-bristles "scratch brush" would have been even better. Even new connectors will sometimes have some grease or oxidation on the pins when they leave the factory or by the time they arrive to you. You should have twisted the wires after stripping the insulation back, before tinning them all, and you should have taken great care to strip all the wires back by the exact same amount. The insulated portions of the wires should be no more than twice the diameter of the jacketed wire away from the end of the pins where the solder stops......
Appreciate you taking the time to make the video! Bit more confidence now for when my plugs arrive.
It just takes practice and a good soldering iron - and maybe a fan.
I have been trying to find the correct way to solder thin circuit wires to a very similar panel mount connector (but for use as a connector socket on a high-end speaker for a computer). Your techniques and practical tips are exactly what I needed for my speaker job. Thanks for demonstrating how to get the job done properly.
Hi, I did quite a bit of soldering on similar plugs - same half-pipe style. Those were XT-60 RC plugs. What I did, just like you did, was to twist and solder ends of the wire - but I applied some paste flux, then I applied paste flux on the connector - into the half-pipe, placed the tinned end of the wire in the half-pipe and applied heat to the connector while feeding the solder. Then, when solder started melting, it joined pre-tinned wire and remelted the solder creating very clean and strong bond. I only had to add very little solder, when soldering the wire in, as it pulled excess from the wire. I think the paste flux did the trick as it etched the connector a bit allowing for better flow of soldering alloy. You could also try to use SMD soldering paste, it's a mixture of paste flux and solder particulates, it does very clean solder joints but it's somewhat expensive, I paid an equivalent of like 3 GBP per 15g syringe. I hope you or someone else finds those suggestions helpful. Have fun, My CNC project is half done.
Thanks for sharing the information. I am using GX16 and GX12 panel mounts. Good luck with the rest of your CNC build! :)
you got it ! also if you use 1mm solder to tin thick wires your adding more solder faster thus reducing how much the isolation shrinks back. Also adding heat shrink over the individual solder joints would help with the aesthetics.
Yeah for some reason I imagined a thinner solder would melt quicker but I have to be a lot quicker pushing it into the area I heated.
Hi there, thank you for posting this video, really helpful
Quick tip
To help control the heat, dissipation and deforming, the pins it’s best to connect the female and male together when soldering, some people think it will take longer to heat up, but this is false. If you have a good quality soldering iron, which can apply the heat quickly and reduce deforming the pins it helps
So you do not put the wire through the holes in the pins and twist them at the top to itself ?
The important point when soldering the cables to the female and male ends is that the same color cable comes to the same pin number on both sides?
Thanks for telling us what the numbers were for the wiring.
Hi. Have noticed you pull very soon the solder iron from the connection. That way you are not letting the solder from the wire and pin to become one solid piece by melting completely. It may seem to be strong but sometimes it fails.
I've been doing the pull test on everything and they're passing with flying colours. Lol
What did you use to test your wiring afterwards (time mark 7:25). I got it soldered and fix but when I plugged it in - sparks and smoke!!
Great tutorial - saved me a lot of time.
A voltmeter on the continuity setting - very useful tool.
Good job, looks much better.
after a while soldering just clicks.
I actually punched the air when it clicked.
I am about to solder some GX25-7 's , looked for some advice on youtube and whammo here it is , thanks a million!
Sir what is the name and size of cable you used to connect the aviation connectors?
I think it was Alpha Wire screened industrial cable from RS components.
oH MAN YOU ARE A GENIUS YOU MAKE ME SAVE HOURS OF HEAD SCRATCHING ....Thank you so much making this video
Glad it helped!
My solder joints always seem to corrode, and the wire eventually breaks off. Is it the flux causing this? Are you using rosin core or a separate container for your flux?
Rosen flux contained within high-quality leaded solder is pretty much inert and non-corrosive; rosin flux that is separate from the solder isn't corrosive either, BUT if you are buying solder or flux direct from China via Amazon, ebay Bangood or AliExpress it's usually junk and the flux might be of the highly acidic, corrosive type used for soldering sheet metal and water pipes. The special fluxes contained within, and designed for use with, lead-free solder are also corrosive, and traces of leadfree must be thoroughly removed for long-term reliability of the connections (isopropyl alcohol will remove most fluxes, but some leadfree fluxes wash off with with water).
Another possibility is that the inslation of the wires, which is often PVC or some other chlorine-based compound, may start to react chemically with the copper, especially after the wire and insulation has been heated. Some cheap quality wiring will outgas or leech chemicals from the insulation and cause internal corrosion where you can't even necessarily see it.
Anyway, your best recourse is to buy brand name solder, flux, and soldering-iron tips from an authorized electronics-specialty distributor in your home country. Amazon and the rest are often non-transparent as to who is actually selling and shipping the solder; shoddy, fake and counterfeit solder and soldering products are everywhere on the internet. I will also add that unless you are selling the products you make, there is absolutely no reason for a hobbyist to be using lead-free solder, which is extremely difficult to work with and has a higher melting point than leaded solder, and is much less forgiving about the quality and cleanliness and oxidation layer on the parts you are soldering. Leaded solder is not toxic unless you are chewing on it, and the fumes (flux vapors) may be mildly irritating to your nose but they will not give you lead poisoning. Solder in a well ventilated area or use a fan to blow the fumes away. ( The fumes from lead free solder and its attendant special fluxes are far more caustic to your sinuses)..
@goodun2974 thank you for taking the time for an indepth answer. 👍
@@pierregauthier3077 , I've been soldering electronics for over 50 years, including 2 decades as an audio equipment repair tech; as a kid I was mentored by other, older electronics experts, and since I can't take what I've learned with me when I croak, I may as well help others out while I still can. By the way, I have a couple of soldering-related videos on my channel; and there's a series of soldering videos on the PaceWorldwide TH-cam channel that you may find helpful (they're friom the 1970's, very old school, but extremely detailed; one of their videos is about soldering similar connectors to what you see here on this channel, except that the soldering techniques shown in this here video are decidedly substandard ).
Nice video!!
Now I'm not intimidated by soldering..
One question .. is it ok to put heat shrink tubing in every pins ?
Are you using a flux?
do you have a image that shows me how to wire it to a usb?
Pls make video on 15 pin connector
Lol
Thanks for sharing. Just what I was looking for.
Thanks, I've been struggling with these exact connector building a controller for my CNC. I'll give these tricks a try... :)
what wire are you using .thanks very good
You mean solder?
Please, take no offense....................for a hobby environment I guess this soldering would suffice........but if you were doing work for a defense contractor...as you state these are used in aviation...QC would reject your work in a heartbeat. I am an IPC specialist to J standard 001.......Your wire was heated so hot insulation was shrunk to over 2 wire diameters when the wires were soldered into the cup.....reject. I saw no flux use at all.......You also filled the cups with way too much solder.....and when you heat the cup up and try to insert a cold wire into a heated cup the wires usually fray and you have strands soldered to the outside of the cup, possibly touching an adjacent cup...............and a panavise works much better than a wooden block.
Gonna agree with everything above. I've worked for a major US defense contractor and aircraft builder for 25 years and I was a NASA and J std soldering instructor. For hobby grade- it's passable. Also as far as calling them "aviation connectors" just because those connectors would look snazzy on an aircraft panel or bulkhead, they are far from flight quality.
Wish guys like you would post a video on these topics. Best regards
IS the metal outer jacket (the outer housing) grounded?
If I had a metal housing, or panel that I was connecting these on, that could be grounded but my enclosure panel is plastic, so they are not.
is this connector waterproof?
No it isn't. RS components will sell ones that are.
Very helpful, thank you!
Thanks for the tips. Would have expend tons of time and headaches trying to get it right, otherwise.
Use a liquid flux. It's a game changer
Thanks heaps for this, was in world of pain
a little dab of paste flux on those wire ends will literally just suck the solder off the tip and make your tinning much easier.
This is really good guide.. Thanks..
It's the beauty of this. Yesterday I killed myself trying to solder the aviation panel and gave up. Today there is someone I do not know and who does not know me, made my day. I solder everything in 5 minutes. thank you :)~
really helped! thanks
what about the female side
You may actually want to redirect people to this 9 Step Soldering Lesson: th-cam.com/play/PL926EC0F1F93C1837.html
At least that's where I got my soldering skills from.
Wish I saw those before I started mine too.
Just curious? Wheres the flux? Great job without it though.
Some solder has flux cores.
I hate those connectors, because the solder cups are oriented in one direction like north-south, instead of circular orientation.
I gave up with this in the end and wired directly into my new enclosure - using cable glands.
Thank you brother
Thanks for the tips. I've been having a bitch of a time getting a good connection.
Thank you.
Found your video first when I started looking for what I'm doing wrong... it was great and I certainly appreciated I wasnt alone in the struggle. I did find a link to another post that show how to solder cup joints and it make it look even easier. It's old school, and really only talks about the cups and does not mention lockdown/clamping/etc. But both that one and this really help me. Thank you!
The other was: th-cam.com/video/_GLeCt_u3U8/w-d-xo.html
The PaceWorldwide TH-cam channel has a series of excellent tutorial videos on soldering. They likely date from the 1970's ! but are extremely thorough and have excellent pictorial diagrams and demonstrations of soldering and desoldering.
There is an excellent video on soldering cups uploaded a decade ago: th-cam.com/video/_GLeCt_u3U8/w-d-xo.html
Wrong on so many fronts. That soldering was a mess.
ormal human use heat srink this too ewery wire. not perfect soldering but work. aviation plug in plane i not accept this but hobby user about stepper motor connection has ok, too heavy wire gauge has only this. no need ,because stepper motors no have many if use 5A current more no need big awg wire too.
This is an awful way to solder.
Sorry but painful to watch, you still have a LOT to learn, this isn't how to solder them properly.
What not to do. This video was awful. Once I saw you move on after the red connector was dangling by a thread I laughed and posted this comment and moved on to the next vide...... **SSHHHHHHH** (radio silence)
Provide the time code please.
So you do put the wire through the holes in the pins and twist them at the top to itself ?