Tom, Thank you. Mega kudos for walking it through step by step and talking as you went along. Watch a lot of do it yourself videos and they leave out bits and pieces. Not so with yours.
I try to make it so people can do the job. Sometimes I miss steps because things are just obvious to me, but I try to think of the person that doesn't wrench every day.
$400! - I would do that repair for part + 1hr diag labor at $75. I wouldn't even charge additional labor beyond the diagnosis for something that fast to do. I am glad it helped you.
@@frugalprepper yeah they tried to throw in well this and that will probably go out to so you need the bells and whistles 🙄 then they said I need my steering rack replaced cause it was leaking but I see no leaks Virginia is the worst
I just finished this fix yesterday, One hard part was releasing the red clips Tom talks about when you have to separate the electrical plugs from the switch. Push the red clips away from the steering wheel towards the dashboard to un-lock the plugs. Then apply continuing pressure toward the dashboard as you pull the plugs off. This continued pressure releases the plug. Another tip, the first two screws to release the plastic shroud over the switch are Phillips. The rest are Torx as Tom states.
Good job my friend. Same problem here with my daughters Looser. Went to junkyard and pulled replacement for 20.00 U$D but you get what you pay for and more. Now various lights turn on for no reason even with key out. Got on Amazon and bought a ‘Standard-Products’ switch. Not worth the trouble of replacing a known problematic part with another used unknown problematic part. Thanks for your vid.
Can I just take out that fuze for the time being until i get the repair? My car is just parked and it's killing the battery. I need the battery stayed hooked up for other reasons?
Tom, I've had MANY Mopars over the years, Chargers, Barracudas, Darts a '65 Satellite and still own an old Dodge Caravan with almost 300,000 miles on it. I currently own 2 PTs (Sedan and Convert) and loved all my Mopars. I've also owned many GM and Ford products over the years and have found that if you take good care of them, they'll last you a long time.
@@frugalprepper "Need 3 of them" Hahaha.....nice try but no cigar. I bought my first one in '05 and drove it until it had 130,000 miles on it (with NO problems) we then decided to look for a lower mile PT because we like them so much. We found one 3 years ago with only 17,000 original miles on it from the proverbial "little old lady original owner" and bought it, selling our '05 to a college girl (that also loves it). We later decided to buy a Convertible PT for Summer driving and still have both PTs. We drive the sedan during the Winter months and drive the "Vert" in the Summer......no big issues with ANY of them other than the fog light thing which just happened yesterday. Any more questions?
I am glad you have had good luck with yours. Most people do not. I certainly haven't with mine. With less that 50K miles it's had Head redone for a blown head gasket (did the timing belt while I had it apart) multiple oil pressure switches, 2 plugged radiators, alternator, starters, cooling fan. It tends to crack the porcelain on spark plugs every 10K miles. Camshaft Position Sensor, Multiple Oil pressure switches. Ignition replaced, several batteries, 2 watts links, axle, belt tensioner, I could go on, but I can't remember everything I have done in the last 3 years. The latest problem is the AC mode selection which requires removal of the dash to to replace the whole HVAC control box, but Chrylser no longer make the part for it and it was about $1200 for the part. So I disassemble and lock in on defrost in the winter and move it to vent in the summer. I've done all the work myself, and at first glance, it is a clean solid car with low mileage. we knew the first owner and the always maintained it well but it just crap. All of these things are common pattern failures on PT's, but this one has had them all. We honestly are not surprised when we turn the key and it doesn't start. It must have been built on a Monday.
@@frugalprepper Before I bought mine I asked everyone who had one (even at the gas stations I was buying gas) if they like theirs and the answer was always YES. It was only then that I bought my first one (used from the original owners)....and two more since then. When these get too many miles, I'll find another low miler someplace even if I have to have it shipped to me. There's an older couple at church who have a low miler they bought new. I've been talking to them about it and I'm hoping I'll be able to buy it someday when they're ready. You obviously got a "lemon" and EVERY manufacturer has them from time to time.
G'day Tom, Yay Team ! It all seems easy, as long as you happen to know that such a Fault is common with that particular Vehicle. Did you know that the Australian Army is now painting the metal bits of their Steyrs..., in Beige ; Sand-Beige, for better Blending when shooting in the Desert...? I discovered the phenomenon when I went to ANZAC Day, and the Catafalque Party had Pink-Painted Bullpups ; so I (too quickly) made a 30 Second Video of the painted Guns..., as well as a separate 10-minute "Speechless" coverage of the annual Commemoration. Have a good one, ;-p Ciao !
If the fog lights are still coming on after changing the switch you need to check the relay. I would put a DVM (or LED test light) to the control side of the relay and see if the relay is being commanded on when the fog lights come on. If they are not then you have a bad relay. If they are then you have a short to ground in the control from the switch or a bad switch.
Me pudes decir donde va la balbula de precion de aceite del motor 2.4 gran am k es la ke ave k no no tenga presión de aceite en la parte superior del motor cuando esta en su temperatura de trabajo
Tom, Thank you. Mega kudos for walking it through step by step and talking as you went along. Watch a lot of do it yourself videos and they leave out bits and pieces. Not so with yours.
I try to make it so people can do the job. Sometimes I miss steps because things are just obvious to me, but I try to think of the person that doesn't wrench every day.
Tom, Thank you. This was very straight forward. I also like the switch suppler links. You do good work!
You saved me 400 bucks thanks man 👌
$400! - I would do that repair for part + 1hr diag labor at $75. I wouldn't even charge additional labor beyond the diagnosis for something that fast to do. I am glad it helped you.
@@frugalprepper yeah they tried to throw in well this and that will probably go out to so you need the bells and whistles 🙄 then they said I need my steering rack replaced cause it was leaking but I see no leaks Virginia is the worst
I just finished this fix yesterday, One hard part was releasing the red clips Tom talks about when you have to separate the electrical plugs from the switch. Push the red clips away from the steering wheel towards the dashboard to un-lock the plugs. Then apply continuing pressure toward the dashboard as you pull the plugs off. This continued pressure releases the plug. Another tip, the first two screws to release the plastic shroud over the switch are Phillips. The rest are Torx as Tom states.
Get better soon Tom. Good job on the fix, usually things like that are a ping to figure out the problem...I hate intermittent issues.
Good job my friend. Same problem here with my daughters Looser. Went to junkyard and pulled replacement for 20.00 U$D but you get what you pay for and more. Now various lights turn on for no reason even with key out. Got on Amazon and bought a ‘Standard-Products’ switch.
Not worth the trouble of replacing a known problematic part with another used unknown problematic part.
Thanks for your vid.
Can I just take out that fuze for the time being until i get the repair? My car is just parked and it's killing the battery. I need the battery stayed hooked up for other reasons?
Yeah
Thanks for broadcast appreciate it!
Thanks for the video and links to the part. You made it look very easy.
Your welcome. I am glad it helped.
This was extremely helpful Thanks
Glad to hear it!
Fantastic, thank you! Same problem. I use this car to drive clients around.
Glad it helped.
good video , I am so old I remember back in the 50 ' s Mopar was great engineering and very reliable , now not so much😲
Tom, I've had MANY Mopars over the years, Chargers, Barracudas, Darts a '65 Satellite and still own an old Dodge Caravan with almost 300,000 miles on it. I currently own 2 PTs (Sedan and Convert) and loved all my Mopars. I've also owned many GM and Ford products over the years and have found that if you take good care of them, they'll last you a long time.
This PT was the Mopar Car of SHAME!
Hey! can this be causing my battery light to come on? brand new battery and rebuilt alternator.
Probably not. If the battery light is coming on most likely the alternator isn't charging.
I do like "Wells" products. I hope you feel better by now Tom.
Car of shame?? I've had 3 now and loved them all.......knock it off!!!
Curt Brennan some people like it rough
If it so great why did you need 3 of them? I love my Hyundai Elantra and I’ve only had to buy one of them and we’ve had it 14 years
@@frugalprepper "Need 3 of them" Hahaha.....nice try but no cigar. I bought my first one in '05 and drove it until it had 130,000 miles on it (with NO problems) we then decided to look for a lower mile PT because we like them so much. We found one 3 years ago with only 17,000 original miles on it from the proverbial "little old lady original owner" and bought it, selling our '05 to a college girl (that also loves it). We later decided to buy a Convertible PT for Summer driving and still have both PTs. We drive the sedan during the Winter months and drive the "Vert" in the Summer......no big issues with ANY of them other than the fog light thing which just happened yesterday. Any more questions?
I am glad you have had good luck with yours. Most people do not. I certainly haven't with mine. With less that 50K miles it's had Head redone for a blown head gasket (did the timing belt while I had it apart) multiple oil pressure switches, 2 plugged radiators, alternator, starters, cooling fan. It tends to crack the porcelain on spark plugs every 10K miles. Camshaft Position Sensor, Multiple Oil pressure switches. Ignition replaced, several batteries, 2 watts links, axle, belt tensioner, I could go on, but I can't remember everything I have done in the last 3 years. The latest problem is the AC mode selection which requires removal of the dash to to replace the whole HVAC control box, but Chrylser no longer make the part for it and it was about $1200 for the part. So I disassemble and lock in on defrost in the winter and move it to vent in the summer. I've done all the work myself, and at first glance, it is a clean solid car with low mileage. we knew the first owner and the always maintained it well but it just crap. All of these things are common pattern failures on PT's, but this one has had them all. We honestly are not surprised when we turn the key and it doesn't start. It must have been built on a Monday.
@@frugalprepper Before I bought mine I asked everyone who had one (even at the gas stations I was buying gas) if they like theirs and the answer was always YES. It was only then that I bought my first one (used from the original owners)....and two more since then. When these get too many miles, I'll find another low miler someplace even if I have to have it shipped to me. There's an older couple at church who have a low miler they bought new. I've been talking to them about it and I'm hoping I'll be able to buy it someday when they're ready. You obviously got a "lemon" and EVERY manufacturer has them from time to time.
Great video thanks. I like the quick fix. Thanks for sharing keep up the great work see you in the next video
Same problem with 2014 tc
Awesome job!
Great job
Thanks
At least you didn't have to remove the steering wheel. That would have made you day even worse. I hope your feeling better by now.
It turned into full blown Pneumonia. I was out of commission for almost 2 weeks. I am just now getting back to 100%.
WOW, that sucks. Glad your'e feeling better.
G'day Tom,
Yay Team !
It all seems easy, as long as you happen to know that such a Fault is common with that particular Vehicle.
Did you know that the Australian Army is now painting the metal bits of their Steyrs..., in Beige ; Sand-Beige, for better Blending when shooting in the Desert...?
I discovered the phenomenon when I went to ANZAC Day, and the Catafalque Party had Pink-Painted Bullpups ; so I (too quickly) made a 30 Second Video of the painted Guns..., as well as a separate 10-minute "Speechless" coverage of the annual Commemoration.
Have a good one,
;-p
Ciao !
Thanks !
No problem!
The flashing fog lights were sending you morse code..."I'm the Mopar demon and I'm gonna drain your battery." :) Thanks for showing us this fix.
I have no doubt that POS is possessed. I am getting used to my wife calling and saying the car won't start.
Thank you. it happen to my wife
Welcome
We changed our switch and it still malfunctioned. What now?
If the fog lights are still coming on after changing the switch you need to check the relay. I would put a DVM (or LED test light) to the control side of the relay and see if the relay is being commanded on when the fog lights come on. If they are not then you have a bad relay. If they are then you have a short to ground in the control from the switch or a bad switch.
Yea I got a PT Cruiser, good name for it too, car of shame, haha. Thing is always broke down.
Me pudes decir donde va la balbula de precion de aceite del motor 2.4 gran am k es la ke ave k no no tenga presión de aceite en la parte superior del motor cuando esta en su temperatura de trabajo
Don't know that launguage
Be careful of showing your plate on youtube, there are some crazies out there. You made it look simple & interesting.
Yeah I normally cover it on customers cars on TH-cam. I should probably start doing it on my own cars too.
My light is on now so replace the switch
If the switch is the issue.