Internal spoke nipples could be a saving? Custom fitted Skin-suite? You could also go for a Bike-fit, which could dramatically change your position and aero savings. Done most of the upgrades you mention, except for aero aero bars (I am looking into a Speeco TTX), Wind tunnel, Ceramic bearings and OSPW. The "reaching for it" is so damn expensive though :(
I have struggled to find any information on how much savings the hidden spoke nipple have. If you have seen anything, please send it my way. Yes custom skin suit is a fantastic one! also bike fit I fully agree with for some people. I think I would find it hard to find a bike fitter with the aerodynamic knowledge to really optimise you though. Maybe one day they will come down in price. I think they might be too big of a niche though.
Nothing beats losing weight and increasing power. Free if charge and you will also save money for these upgrades. Nice position when your racing very aero 😊
which eventually becomes impossible if your well trained; power will always reach a cut off point and will start to drop as you get older; been clever aero wise will gain way more speed than extra watts ever will especially as you go over 25 mph. essential if your aiming for 30 mph
if you need to climb, maybe. But if you look at the actual data, it's pretty minimal unless you have a lot of weight to give. A couple pounds is pretty minimal.
Losing weight and gaining power are uncertain; throwing money at the bike makes the gains a certainty. I don’t know about you, but going for things that give certain results seem like the smarter choice.
@@kevinblades If you're getting old than why even bother competing anymore except for fun? Like if you know you're not going to get your best time ever again and never going to win an iron man again, why not just relax at that point and stop taking the sport so seriously?
Its very rare Im not calling out errors and misconceptions in a cycling related video but all of your information seems spot on. Maybe another upgrade could be high quality (cpmpressionless) shifting and brake cable and housing. Im still new to the channel but this is probably the best homegrown cycling channel at the moment. I dont watch the ad riddled shill channels.
@@cyclingunboxedthat's because you're above your head giving "reviews" and advice with such little experience. Would be better to gear your channel as a learning novice. Nothing wrong with that and it's honest
I was wondering why belt drive seems to be no option in TT? Like, Pinion gears combined with belt drive seems to be the lightest option, that also brings the fine stepped 18 gear transmission into play.
@@matthiasschuster9505 I've tried a belt drive before and snapped it twice so far. It's absolute garbage with horrendous torque going up hill or accelerating from a stop. If you're really strong like me you have to intentionally go slower too just to make sure the belt doesn't skip and if it skips enough snaps. Belt drives absolutely suck. I thought it would be better because lighter weight and less maintenance but it's absolutely rubbish and I've had to replace belts more often than chains.
Nice video! I ride the TT bike just for fun, so I have been riding durable training tires, but I think this year I am going to do some fast tires and upgrade from butyl tubes to latex. I am on a Giant Trinity, so still rim brakes here.
I do like a lot the innovation from a lot of the smaller brands like from Parcours wheel I have on the bike. However I still think you are looking at £1000 for something you would be willing to buy new. So cost per watt is quite low.
I’m 192cm so 6’4. This bike is a M/L which is like a 56. It’s the same as the S/M on this bike but has a longer seat post and mono riser. I am just on the edge of the max seat post height but this size rather than the L fits my reach better as I have very long legs and a regular torso length.
I wasn't sure if this video was a joke or not until I got to the end and realized it was serious. Especially when I saw that one suit that has a see through part for the butt that made me think maybe this video is a joke and also the thing about shaving hair off. I got to go do a bunch of crime or something to be able to afford one of these bikes, I went to my local iron man but I didn't have a proper bike at all for it, money for a good bike is a big issue for me to actually compete even though I'm extremely capable and strong.
First off, the tyre logo alignment and biggy smalls 🔔 super nice Shaven legs are part and parcel of cycling. I dont understand why people need convincing, they need to get that chip off their shoulders about the topic OR just where baggy pants and shirts and enjoy their commute. Find me a professional male swimmer who has a hairy chest, arms and legs....
Great information bro 👍 , but i want to know custom skinsuit are fast because of linnings or cloth material , or any type of clothes with linning will work same ???? Earlier i made a disk wheel cover by a aluminium thin plate and with tape sticking on spoke cover the whole spoke area, don't know how much it works but definitely save some watts. Now i am thinking to cover my aero bars with aluminium plate to gain custom aerobars benifits.
I believe the custom skinsuits are fast because of a combination of those things but the main reason being that when you go custom, the skinsuit will fit you perfectly. Tighter and less wrinkles which decrease your drag. Quite significantly over 45kmh. The home disk wheel has been shown to work well. Would be interested to see what your creation looks like.
@@cyclingunboxed here in my country cycling is not on heigher lavel, custom skinsuit facilities not available, and you can only buy on High cost. And everyone has their financial boundaries. Well Its my pleasure if you want to see , thanks 🙏 But how to send pics?
It’s a bit of a boring video (I was rubbish back then 😂) But here is the guide on how I did it: Intergrated TT AERO front light th-cam.com/video/mfY8u-6PyLE/w-d-xo.html
You forgot the ospw give you more drag.. poor upgrade. Also the socks you talk about.. our legs doesn't spin like a golf ball, so all those comments shows you don't know how a golf ball works. It's just marketing.
I will agree somewhat with the OSPW here with the drag numbers increasing but there are 2 things 1, the drag is so minimal from the wake back there in the bike I can’t see it being greater than the watts saving from the reduced articulation of the chain. 2, the frontal area which has the biggest impact is barley larger than the original pulley system. This is an upgrade that is far too much for me to justify the cost but ceramic speed now do an aero fared OSPW you counteract this. I also think the 2 watt saving comes down as well when you wax your chain as that is already so efficient. (It does look cool though!) On the aerosocks however I would like to dispel some myths for you here. You are right, the leg doesn’t spin like a golf ball but the spin only produces a Magnus force to curl the path of the ball. The air just needs to travel over a surface and then trip the air. The trips are there to turbulate the air to maintain more attachment around the leg and reduce the wake behind the leg (or cylinder). This of course goes for the arm as well. That is why there is also trip flows on most skin suits. Most aero socks are flat on the front and the trips only start at the side of the leg. The next advantage is smoothing the shape of the shoe with the covers but the socks alone work almost as well. There is tonnes of test data out there from Nopinz, Silcas Josh portner, and aero coach to back this research up with hours upon hours of wind tunnel test data. If you really want to know more, Silcas marginal gains podcast goes quite deep into this topic. My final point is that there is a reason almost every pro cyclist and triathlete wears an aero sock / calf sleeve no matter the race. I have linked some cylinder trip and flow aerodynamics papers below if you have access to a research portal that you can dive into. You are also welcome to provide me with research countering my points made above and the papers I have linked below. I would like to see them to further my knowledge if so. I hope that clarifies why I still maintain this as one of the best bang for buck upgrade. Jason scholar.google.co.uk/scholar?hl=en&as_sdt=0%2C5&q=cylinder+trip+aerodynamics&btnG=#d=gs_qabs&t=1714237454059&u=%23p%3DaY59xC8EOWwJ scholar.google.co.uk/scholar?hl=en&as_sdt=0%2C5&q=cylinder+trip+aerodynamics&btnG=#d=gs_qabs&t=1714237471756&u=%23p%3D8knod3tPVG8J scholar.google.co.uk/scholar?hl=en&as_sdt=0%2C5&q=cylinder+trip+aerodynamics&btnG=#d=gs_qabs&t=1714237485015&u=%23p%3D2Ibr2IRQ0_oJ
Excellent look. Two things that intrigued me that are. . . sort of related. Power Meter? Both on-bike and off-bike. Pedal-based power meter is what I have and love it since I know I can put it on any future bike I have. So I'm shocked that it on the high end, yes they are pricey-ish but the amount of cross-compatibility you can have with it is a neat feature for how simple it is to do. The other one that is more related is a direct drive indoor trainer. I shouldn't have to tell anybody who is remotely familiar with the world of bikes what this is to explain the massive benefits this provides from being used from a self-guided aerodynamic positioning tool to (winter) workouts and everything in between. So it being left off is strange.
Power meter is a great upgrade. For the order it’s more of an essential/ purchasable / reaching for it. It’s number 13 on this list but I guess it doesn’t have to be 13 on someone else’s list. For the turbo I thought the same as you. I assume the most people would know and have one if they were this far into time trialling. It’s also of course not directly making the bike faster during a TT or triathlon. It’s an indirect way of making the bike faster if that makes sense?
A few things to add. Electronic shifting: less cables in the wind & more/easy shifting so more consistent cadence/power. For triathletes: bottle placement is a big one. Aero gloves. Skin is slow. Upgrade considerations, weight of the components and frame stiffness. (shorter) crank length, bike/saddle fit. In general aerobars on a regular roadbike don't work well & are uncomfortable, tight hip angle, high stack height & long reach.
Aerobars on a regular roadbike-depends on the frame geometry and on a GOOD bike fitter. After spending 4h in saddle to make the proper fit-I'm riding comfortable on aero with a 6km/h avg gain. Hips are fine due to an appropriate saddle and its' fit. Having said all of that it is also true that a dedicated TT bike feels better and more comfortable riding aero(as much as being in a aero can be comfortable). This is from my personal experience so it could be different for somebody else. Worth noting, though, is that I do own both bikes and I raced on IM with both.
Very comprehensive and detailed video! Liked and saved in case I need to do a triathlon in the future. I wonder how much can you actually feel for these watts savings in real life? It seems these are tested individually in a wind tunnel, so does it feel like a big difference when combined riding outside?
It’s quite hard to describe so will do my best. You don’t really feel the reduced drag, you just notice your speed is a lot higher when you look down at your gps. You also notice your average speed is a lot higher after the ride. Effort levels feel the same. It’s a case of as you go faster you need exponentially more watts to hold a higher speed rather than a linear graph. So at 40-50kmh it’s quite easy to save 100w But at 25kmh it’s hard to save that kind of aero drag.
Missing first best upgrade. long arm cups. Staying comfy for longer equals a faster time if you are able to maintain the position for longer without sitting up, cups like culprit, tri rig, etc
I can certainly see how for some ultra endurance events this could be good. For me know even up to 70.3/ middle distance triathlons, I have never really thought about this as I have been more than comfortable in the pads I already have. May think about it on my first full IM this year though.
Jason I recently purchased the bike and it came with Hookless rims . Zipp 858. I did a search on your channel to see if you specifically addressed this issue and I can't seem to find it although I do see a lot of information on tubeless tires. If you do have a video on the subject please direct me to it. If you don't can you give me your opinion on it or maybe make a video on it. I am concerned about the safety of those rims. I think it is notable that some wheel manufacturers are convinced that road hookless wheels are not the way to go. Eg DTSwiss.
Hey! I don’t have a video on it but I do have an opinion. Which bike did you buy? (I am curious) The 858 is an awesome looking wheel! When it comes to hookless I like: Tubless (less rolling resistance) Cleaner transition from the tyre - rim Lighter A bit cheaper to make. What I don’t like The max psi is too low for someone of my weight. Especially for a deeper wheel where you will be running a narrower front TT tyre. I would go 28mm wide minimum but wouldn’t go wider for a TT tyre. If you are light enough though it’s ok. In terms of safety I think they are probably ok. There are a few stories out there but I reckon they are fewer than they seem. Personally not a fan of hookless (mainly because of the max psi issue). I need to run around 80psi for most tyres. I hope that helps a bit. They are just my thoughts. Of course if you have any other questions, please hit me up.
bike rolling resistance conduct their studies at low speeds (not TT speeds) and on a smooth metal drum so the data will be irrelevant for a good TT er; better looking at aerocoachs data done at 45 kmh which will tell you the tyres to buy
I have had a look and compared them and they seem to correlate very closely in which order they place their results. I’m glad you said though as I’m also going to put it in the description so people have more data to look at. Interestingly Josh from Silca has suggested before that the drum tests correlate very strongly with what they see in real world conditions.
Indeed it is! I would argue that a lot people into time trialing and triathlon are already quite close to their genetic performance ceiling. Then these gains start to make the difference.
Thankfully for me I am 80kg so the wind doesn’t hit me too hard. Also wheel profiles are a lot better designed for side winds now days. I have never had a problem with these wheels and that’s with some TTs round the goodwood race circuit which gets very windy.
This one is Orbeas own bottle designed to go with this bike. You may be able to find it on their website but I have only ever been able to order parts using my bikes frame number
That’s the way that they sit as they are designed to be heavier at the back. It makes clipping in easier as you are pushing forward into the front of the pedal to seat it properly when clipping in. I hope that makes a bit of sense. If it sat flat it would take more time to find the spot to seat the cleat on the shoe
I did all of these and I saved so many watts i don’t have to pedal anymore.
😂
@@cyclingunboxed
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
compleatly agree with your opinion. Great Video with all details and explanations. Every new cyclist need to see this :)
Internal spoke nipples could be a saving? Custom fitted Skin-suite? You could also go for a Bike-fit, which could dramatically change your position and aero savings.
Done most of the upgrades you mention, except for aero aero bars (I am looking into a Speeco TTX), Wind tunnel, Ceramic bearings and OSPW. The "reaching for it" is so damn expensive though :(
I have struggled to find any information on how much savings the hidden spoke nipple have. If you have seen anything, please send it my way.
Yes custom skin suit is a fantastic one! also bike fit I fully agree with for some people. I think I would find it hard to find a bike fitter with the aerodynamic knowledge to really optimise you though.
Maybe one day they will come down in price. I think they might be too big of a niche though.
Nothing beats losing weight and increasing power. Free if charge and you will also save money for these upgrades. Nice position when your racing very aero 😊
which eventually becomes impossible if your well trained; power will always reach a cut off point and will start to drop as you get older; been clever aero wise will gain way more speed than extra watts ever will especially as you go over 25 mph. essential if your aiming for 30 mph
if you need to climb, maybe. But if you look at the actual data, it's pretty minimal unless you have a lot of weight to give. A couple pounds is pretty minimal.
Losing weight and gaining power are uncertain; throwing money at the bike makes the gains a certainty.
I don’t know about you, but going for things that give certain results seem like the smarter choice.
@@kevinblades If you're getting old than why even bother competing anymore except for fun? Like if you know you're not going to get your best time ever again and never going to win an iron man again, why not just relax at that point and stop taking the sport so seriously?
@@FringeWizard2 because i have had that attitude id be you. what a totally useless pointless post
Legs shaved arms shaved head Giant mane! this is how the cyclist do
Its very rare Im not calling out errors and misconceptions in a cycling related video but all of your information seems spot on. Maybe another upgrade could be high quality (cpmpressionless) shifting and brake cable and housing. Im still new to the channel but this is probably the best homegrown cycling channel at the moment. I dont watch the ad riddled shill channels.
I’m glad you liked it!
Compression less housing is definitely not one I have thought about or actually done myself. I would like to give it a go now.
@@cyclingunboxedthat's because you're above your head giving "reviews" and advice with such little experience. Would be better to gear your channel as a learning novice. Nothing wrong with that and it's honest
I was wondering why belt drive seems to be no option in TT?
Like, Pinion gears combined with belt drive seems to be the lightest option, that also brings the fine stepped 18 gear transmission into play.
@@matthiasschuster9505 I've tried a belt drive before and snapped it twice so far. It's absolute garbage with horrendous torque going up hill or accelerating from a stop. If you're really strong like me you have to intentionally go slower too just to make sure the belt doesn't skip and if it skips enough snaps. Belt drives absolutely suck. I thought it would be better because lighter weight and less maintenance but it's absolutely rubbish and I've had to replace belts more often than chains.
If you add aero disc brake rotors, you will need -200W to go at 40 km/h.
awesome vid great info and actually really entertaining!
I am glad you enjoyed it!
Nice video! I ride the TT bike just for fun, so I have been riding durable training tires, but I think this year I am going to do some fast tires and upgrade from butyl tubes to latex. I am on a Giant Trinity, so still rim brakes here.
It will feel so good! Still one of the fastest TT bikes out there I believe
Wheels after body position and they can be cheap if you don't buy a big brand.and still just as aero and some are better too.
I do like a lot the innovation from a lot of the smaller brands like from Parcours wheel I have on the bike. However I still think you are looking at £1000 for something you would be willing to buy new. So cost per watt is quite low.
Bruh😂😂😂 your so tall your bike is so small what's your goal riding size 42 TT bike if your 5'6-5'8 you need a sz54 bike if your 5'10-6'1 get a sz55-56
I’m 192cm so 6’4.
This bike is a M/L which is like a 56. It’s the same as the S/M on this bike but has a longer seat post and mono riser.
I am just on the edge of the max seat post height but this size rather than the L fits my reach better as I have very long legs and a regular torso length.
I wasn't sure if this video was a joke or not until I got to the end and realized it was serious. Especially when I saw that one suit that has a see through part for the butt that made me think maybe this video is a joke and also the thing about shaving hair off. I got to go do a bunch of crime or something to be able to afford one of these bikes, I went to my local iron man but I didn't have a proper bike at all for it, money for a good bike is a big issue for me to actually compete even though I'm extremely capable and strong.
Thumb nail says you save 69 watts nice
😂 never even thought about it but now I like it even more
Thanks bro helpful video! Nice work!
Im glad it could help!
It was cheaper for me to hire someone to do the pedaling for me
😂
First off, the tyre logo alignment and biggy smalls 🔔 super nice
Shaven legs are part and parcel of cycling.
I dont understand why people need convincing, they need to get that chip off their shoulders about the topic OR just where baggy pants and shirts and enjoy their commute.
Find me a professional male swimmer who has a hairy chest, arms and legs....
Great information bro 👍 , but i want to know custom skinsuit are fast because of linnings or cloth material , or any type of clothes with linning will work same ????
Earlier i made a disk wheel cover by a aluminium thin plate and with tape sticking on spoke cover the whole spoke area, don't know how much it works but definitely save some watts. Now i am thinking to cover my aero bars with aluminium plate to gain custom aerobars benifits.
I believe the custom skinsuits are fast because of a combination of those things but the main reason being that when you go custom, the skinsuit will fit you perfectly. Tighter and less wrinkles which decrease your drag. Quite significantly over 45kmh.
The home disk wheel has been shown to work well. Would be interested to see what your creation looks like.
@@cyclingunboxed here in my country cycling is not on heigher lavel, custom skinsuit facilities not available, and you can only buy on High cost. And everyone has their financial boundaries.
Well Its my pleasure if you want to see , thanks 🙏
But how to send pics?
Feel free to send them to my Instagram:
@jasons_cyclingunboxed.
@@cyclingunboxed ok thanks
Which magnet and light did you use on the front???
It’s a bit of a boring video (I was rubbish back then 😂)
But here is the guide on how I did it:
Intergrated TT AERO front light
th-cam.com/video/mfY8u-6PyLE/w-d-xo.html
Legend @@cyclingunboxed
It also looks very save looking down in the aerobars.
You forgot the ospw give you more drag.. poor upgrade.
Also the socks you talk about.. our legs doesn't spin like a golf ball, so all those comments shows you don't know how a golf ball works. It's just marketing.
I will agree somewhat with the OSPW here with the drag numbers increasing but there are 2 things
1, the drag is so minimal from the wake back there in the bike I can’t see it being greater than the watts saving from the reduced articulation of the chain.
2, the frontal area which has the biggest impact is barley larger than the original pulley system.
This is an upgrade that is far too much for me to justify the cost but ceramic speed now do an aero fared OSPW you counteract this.
I also think the 2 watt saving comes down as well when you wax your chain as that is already so efficient. (It does look cool though!)
On the aerosocks however I would like to dispel some myths for you here.
You are right, the leg doesn’t spin like a golf ball but the spin only produces a Magnus force to curl the path of the ball. The air just needs to travel over a surface and then trip the air.
The trips are there to turbulate the air to maintain more attachment around the leg and reduce the wake behind the leg (or cylinder). This of course goes for the arm as well. That is why there is also trip flows on most skin suits.
Most aero socks are flat on the front and the trips only start at the side of the leg.
The next advantage is smoothing the shape of the shoe with the covers but the socks alone work almost as well.
There is tonnes of test data out there from Nopinz, Silcas Josh portner, and aero coach to back this research up with hours upon hours of wind tunnel test data. If you really want to know more, Silcas marginal gains podcast goes quite deep into this topic.
My final point is that there is a reason almost every pro cyclist and triathlete wears an aero sock / calf sleeve no matter the race.
I have linked some cylinder trip and flow aerodynamics papers below if you have access to a research portal that you can dive into. You are also welcome to provide me with research countering my points made above and the papers I have linked below. I would like to see them to further my knowledge if so.
I hope that clarifies why I still maintain this as one of the best bang for buck upgrade.
Jason
scholar.google.co.uk/scholar?hl=en&as_sdt=0%2C5&q=cylinder+trip+aerodynamics&btnG=#d=gs_qabs&t=1714237454059&u=%23p%3DaY59xC8EOWwJ
scholar.google.co.uk/scholar?hl=en&as_sdt=0%2C5&q=cylinder+trip+aerodynamics&btnG=#d=gs_qabs&t=1714237471756&u=%23p%3D8knod3tPVG8J
scholar.google.co.uk/scholar?hl=en&as_sdt=0%2C5&q=cylinder+trip+aerodynamics&btnG=#d=gs_qabs&t=1714237485015&u=%23p%3D2Ibr2IRQ0_oJ
Excellent look.
Two things that intrigued me that are. . . sort of related.
Power Meter? Both on-bike and off-bike.
Pedal-based power meter is what I have and love it since I know I can put it on any future bike I have. So I'm shocked that it on the high end, yes they are pricey-ish but the amount of cross-compatibility you can have with it is a neat feature for how simple it is to do.
The other one that is more related is a direct drive indoor trainer. I shouldn't have to tell anybody who is remotely familiar with the world of bikes what this is to explain the massive benefits this provides from being used from a self-guided aerodynamic positioning tool to (winter) workouts and everything in between. So it being left off is strange.
Power meter is a great upgrade. For the order it’s more of an essential/ purchasable / reaching for it. It’s number 13 on this list but I guess it doesn’t have to be 13 on someone else’s list.
For the turbo I thought the same as you. I assume the most people would know and have one if they were this far into time trialling. It’s also of course not directly making the bike faster during a TT or triathlon. It’s an indirect way of making the bike faster if that makes sense?
A few things to add. Electronic shifting: less cables in the wind & more/easy shifting so more consistent cadence/power. For triathletes: bottle placement is a big one. Aero gloves. Skin is slow. Upgrade considerations, weight of the components and frame stiffness. (shorter) crank length, bike/saddle fit. In general aerobars on a regular roadbike don't work well & are uncomfortable, tight hip angle, high stack height & long reach.
Aerobars on a regular roadbike-depends on the frame geometry and on a GOOD bike fitter. After spending 4h in saddle to make the proper fit-I'm riding comfortable on aero with a 6km/h avg gain. Hips are fine due to an appropriate saddle and its' fit. Having said all of that it is also true that a dedicated TT bike feels better and more comfortable riding aero(as much as being in a aero can be comfortable). This is from my personal experience so it could be different for somebody else. Worth noting, though, is that I do own both bikes and I raced on IM with both.
Very comprehensive and detailed video! Liked and saved in case I need to do a triathlon in the future. I wonder how much can you actually feel for these watts savings in real life? It seems these are tested individually in a wind tunnel, so does it feel like a big difference when combined riding outside?
It’s quite hard to describe so will do my best.
You don’t really feel the reduced drag, you just notice your speed is a lot higher when you look down at your gps. You also notice your average speed is a lot higher after the ride. Effort levels feel the same.
It’s a case of as you go faster you need exponentially more watts to hold a higher speed rather than a linear graph. So at 40-50kmh it’s quite easy to save 100w
But at 25kmh it’s hard to save that kind of aero drag.
Missing first best upgrade. long arm cups. Staying comfy for longer equals a faster time if you are able to maintain the position for longer without sitting up, cups like culprit, tri rig, etc
I can certainly see how for some ultra endurance events this could be good.
For me know even up to 70.3/ middle distance triathlons, I have never really thought about this as I have been more than comfortable in the pads I already have.
May think about it on my first full IM this year though.
Jason I recently purchased the bike and it came with Hookless rims . Zipp 858. I did a search on your channel to see if you specifically addressed this issue and I can't seem to find it although I do see a lot of information on tubeless tires. If you do have a video on the subject please direct me to it. If you don't can you give me your opinion on it or maybe make a video on it. I am concerned about the safety of those rims. I think it is notable that some wheel manufacturers are convinced that road hookless wheels are not the way to go. Eg DTSwiss.
Hey! I don’t have a video on it but I do have an opinion.
Which bike did you buy? (I am curious)
The 858 is an awesome looking wheel!
When it comes to hookless I like:
Tubless (less rolling resistance)
Cleaner transition from the tyre - rim
Lighter
A bit cheaper to make.
What I don’t like
The max psi is too low for someone of my weight. Especially for a deeper wheel where you will be running a narrower front TT tyre. I would go 28mm wide minimum but wouldn’t go wider for a TT tyre.
If you are light enough though it’s ok.
In terms of safety I think they are probably ok. There are a few stories out there but I reckon they are fewer than they seem.
Personally not a fan of hookless (mainly because of the max psi issue). I need to run around 80psi for most tyres.
I hope that helps a bit. They are just my thoughts. Of course if you have any other questions, please hit me up.
bike rolling resistance conduct their studies at low speeds (not TT speeds) and on a smooth metal drum so the data will be irrelevant for a good TT er; better looking at aerocoachs data done at 45 kmh which will tell you the tyres to buy
I have had a look and compared them and they seem to correlate very closely in which order they place their results.
I’m glad you said though as I’m also going to put it in the description so people have more data to look at.
Interestingly Josh from Silca has suggested before that the drum tests correlate very strongly with what they see in real world conditions.
You would gain 50 Watts for shaving your legs😂
😂
No matter how light, or how aero the bike is, it's still dependent on one little thing.
Indeed it is!
I would argue that a lot people into time trialing and triathlon are already quite close to their genetic performance ceiling. Then these gains start to make the difference.
shaving saving
See how many watts you save in a side wind absolute bollocks
Thankfully for me I am 80kg so the wind doesn’t hit me too hard. Also wheel profiles are a lot better designed for side winds now days. I have never had a problem with these wheels and that’s with some TTs round the goodwood race circuit which gets very windy.
The t-shirt... I love it
Where can i have it? Please...
It’s from a brand called Erstwhile.
It’s actually really good quality and very soft.
Fignon Ponytail is making you look like a Neub.
Ok 😂
Good info
Cheap TT bikes? Theres no such thing
I guess when you get upgrading the do start to add up
What is the brand of that water bottle?
This one is Orbeas own bottle designed to go with this bike.
You may be able to find it on their website but I have only ever been able to order parts using my bikes frame number
Just out of curiosity- your pedals pointing up. How do you stop that from happening?
That’s the way that they sit as they are designed to be heavier at the back. It makes clipping in easier as you are pushing forward into the front of the pedal to seat it properly when clipping in. I hope that makes a bit of sense. If it sat flat it would take more time to find the spot to seat the cleat on the shoe
@@cyclingunboxed tell that to my scraped crankarm....
Best video on TH-cam
I appreciate the kind words!