Thank you for your video. This is exactly what we needed to find the best way to work into our power system. We are off-grid remote Alaska about an hour flight from the nearest town and just got our Starlink after a long wait for service to expand to Kodiak. It has been a game-changer.
Thank dear friend, your instruction is very detailed and useful. I want to do the same 12 v DC power for my Starlink. This will help me stay online in Ukraine. God bless you.
Great video, thanks so much for the clear instructions! We successfully did the same and also flat-mounted our Starlink to the roof of our electric campervan. It works great!
Thank you very much for putting this very instructive video together. Question: can you still use the starlink app even if the starlink router has been cut off? Thanks!
Thank you. Very useful video. I am just trying to setup to eliminate the router. So, using your diagram that includes the Starlink Ethernet Adapter. And it occurred to me, that I can cut the side going to the POE adapter, add male RJ45's to both ends, and a female coupler to "mend" the cable back so it has the original Starlink cable connector on it. Just throwing this out there, cause other folks like me hate butchering good equipment and having leftovers with no purpose. So being able to restore the Ethernet adapter to be functional as it came is a plus. Not that I expect to need it, I can also use a section of shielded cat6e, and put male ends on it, and using a female coupler, I can make an extension for the distance between the Starlink Ethernet Adapter and the POE port.
You should have used a Keystone Jack with a waterproof box. To run the cable into the camper, I was going to buy a couple extra Starlink Ethernet adapters , gut them for the proprietary jacks and find a waterproof box to mount them in
If you are not skilled at making Ethernet cables, buy the adapters he has shown or get a person who is skilled at doing this to do it for you. It is very easy to make mistakes or not quite have all the wires properly connected. I have also seen a board available from a guy in Canada that accepts the cables and includes a POE for ~$100
Thanks for the awesome info and video! Tonight I had a successful test running Starlink off 12v DC just in my driveway. I used the POE and 12v to 48v converter you linked plus a cheap TPlink router also powered off 12v. Next is to install it in my van and figure out how I want to deal with the cumbersome antenna/stand. Cutting may be in my future :)
@@outsidenomad yeah I've been eyeing up the Pelican's in the meantime as a stopgap for storage, but ultimately I want to make it a flat mount on the roof. I was thinking of trying a heat gun on the dish to see if the two parts (the "front" the circuit board is attached to and the "back" where the armature attaches) will separate so I can cut the back away from the circuit board and generally have more access.
Dude. The beaten path is right behind you. You can literally see it if you just turn around. You got an overland vehicle so you could camp 100ft off the road. Wow!
LOVE your rig! Found your channel from your tour with Jarrod Tocci. This is an incredibly informative and detailed video. It will be a shame when your channel gets too big that you will not have time to do such helpful videos. But.. without a power consumption differential, it just seems like a lot of effort just to avoid using the inverter. I have a roof rack on my van so it's easy to mount equipment to. I purchased the Starlink pivot mount which is bolted to the rack. I still have the the "x" mount if the roof mount doesn't give me the line-of-sight needed. When in use the Starlink router sits mid-ship on the counter opposite the galley. The dishy and power cables run inside the widow well, below counter level, ~5 feet over to the B pillar. Behind the driver seat on the base of a bench seat is a 110 outlet where the router stays plugged in. This outlet is otherwise used for the air compressor or Dirt Devil. The outlet and cords plugged into it, are not visible or in the way. The dish cable runs up, behind the B pillar trim, and through a hole in the roof that was put in for powering a rack mounted light bar (changed my mind) and exits through a puck style watertight cable gland. The cable is then zip tied to the rack to the back of the van where I have the pivot mount. The extra cable is coiled and put in a Pelican style case which I've modified with a watertight cable gland. This is probably overkill as the cable is designed for outside use but, it does keep the connector dry when the dish is not mounted. If I find that I need to have the dish on the ground due to obstructions, I simply take the excess cable out and drop it to the ground. I had to climb the ladder to mount the dish and plug it in so, no extra effort if I'm just retrieving cable. My setup does not cut cords, not that I'm opposed to that for more universal connection, but it does require turning on my 3000 Watt inverter so I do have excess battery consumption in that regard. My inverter/charger doesn't power anything, not even the AC, unless we are connected to shore power. Using it just for Starlink is a waste of battery so, I am considering alternatives like yours but also, a very small dedicated inverter. So again, thank you. If I go the 12 volt route, now I know how to do it.
Great video with lots of info. I want to connect starlink to my on board router (sailboat). The router also has 4G and a connection to the Iridium antenna. The router is really smart and can be programmed according to the internet source. Example: if internet via iridium, than only text can be send. So if starlink is connected, I can program full access. My question; can you still approach the dish via the starlink app if you don’t use the starlink router?
Awesome work. Thanks for putting this together. I was planning on trying to figure that out if they don't release a 12v mobile version before our build is done. Don't forget to ping me before you head for Mexico I owe you some Gaia data but with all of my projects I will surely procrastinate that until you need it. Travel safe!
I have been using that exact MOFI Router the advanced features don't work as well as they should. The load sharing, and Carrier Aggregation don't work often. Mofi support hasn't helped much with it, the forums and other sources about mofi all day they have the same issues I have. Even when I'm getting a Good 5G on my Pixel 6 Pro 200+ down I'm lucky if the Carrier Aggregation gets me 50 down if it even activates? There's no way to force it , the modem decides if it's got to activate based on a lot of Tower variables, I've had 6+ bands pulling 100+ down and the Carrier Aggregation stays inactive? Starlink had been a life saver for us being full time. Glad you figured out how to run it off 12v it makes things much easier, right now it's sharing the 1000w Inverter that powers our Residential fridge, until I get the Victron Inverter system installed with 800ah of Lifepo batteries 😀👍👍👍
Sir, Watched your video a dozen times. I am using the Ethernet Adapter to remove the Starlink router. The pinout insets of the while at the sink, and your voice over match, as your separate the wires for the connector. But that inset and your verbal description don’t match the swapped pinouts on the diagram with the Ethernet adapter. Your pinout at the sink, shows: 3 = blue 4 = w/green 5 = green 6 = w/blue But Ethernet adapter diagram shows: 3 = w/blue 4 = green 5 = w/green 6 = blue The TYCON PYCON POE POE-INJ-100-WT pinout image doesn’t match either of the swapped pinouts on the larger diagrams. Is your voice over at the sink correct or the diagrams? Or does it not matter? I am sorry to appear nit-picky. I don’ want to burn anything up. I welcome someone that has already wired this to help me know which to use.
Sorry the large overview images with all the system components together have the wrong wire orders. I intended those to just be used as overview. The images in the article are correct.
great info.. thank u.. im surprised u dont have a flat mount fixed pannel mine works 99% and zero set up.. use it goin down the road,, if u found it neccary carry one like u have for emergencies,, but u ll never use it
Great article. Just like to point out though (not that it makes any difference). Your pair B (the blue/blue stripe pair) - your first part of the presentation (the drawing of the connectivity through the PoE injector) showed it as being blue stripe on pin 3, and blue on pin 6. But where you actually did the connecting to the plug, you ran blue on pin 3 and blue stripe on pin 6. It doesnt really matter though, at all. The voltage sense is the same out of the Tycon POE-INJ-1000-WT, whereby both pins 3 and 6 are the negative side of the 48V.
Thanks for pointing that out. I guess I got lucky that it worked. I have since wired up everything again which is also working so I must have followed my own advice and got it right :)
Just as an FYI (sure you know) that is a router you're connecting, not a modem. Those solar panels should not be walked on, they still have a silocon crystalline structure (don't bend them either). Not sure if Starlink is following ethernet standards, but gigabit connections don't need transmit/receive swapped, that's 100 Meg or below.
Two questions on this one. 1> Does the Dishy still try and point itself to best signal and does the STOW feature work when on 12v and NOT connected to Starlink router? Cheers!
Awesome video! I’m working through an install now largely inspired by yours. Did you ever have any luck with finding shielded rj45 pass throughs for your build? I can find a ton of panel mount/ pass through connectors but having a hard time finding shielded
So you eliminated both the Starlink router and power supply and it still works? In that case all I'd have to do is open up the Ethernet adapter and connect the 48 volt power adapter to it and don't need to make any cables or anything?
Sir, I have read your article on your blog. Excellent. Very good. You articulation is powerful and explains much for the novice. Really walks them through how to setup and assemble like you have done. Please be proud of that. I still see the same confusion. The images there match the ones linked below. And your instructions on your blog contradict the images as I have already list here below. Still don't know which to use #3 should be Blue or White/Blue? And thank you.
@@outsidenomad Got it !!. I understand that one, clearly. No question from me now about pin out. New question for you and everyone here. (I posted this question last night on James Olsen's webpage discussion. I need a 120V AC 4-wire POE Injector for my setup. I am in a tropical area. Will never need to melt snow. The SL system specs says Average Power Usage is 50-75 for entire system, so I would guess (being on safe side) 90 watt max POE injector. Anyone have ANY recommendations for AC 4 wire POE injector, please? I do not need to setup for RV/portable. I am simply trying get the SL router out of the path. Don't want to go 120V AC adapter to get to 12V, to use 12v-24v step, to go to TYCON. Lot of extra hardware and would need to make a tidy box for all Thanks ALL.
Sorry, disregard the overview images which show all the components. Those are not the correct wire order. Just refer to the enlarged "swapped" and "standard" wiring diagrams found below the overview photos. I'm going to edit those photos, sorry for the confusion.
Hi Outside Nomad, I am confused. On the general cabling diagram the swap connection (from POE to dish, minute 9:33), is different than in the individual swapping diagram (minute 16:49 in your video). Wire numbers 3,4,5 and 6 are in different order in both images. Please could you tell me what is the correct one. Or what I am missing. Thanks
Hello I’m from Ukraine 🇺🇦 Thank you for your video Very helpful Could you please tell if I use Ethernet adapter from starlink why do I still need to swap the lines in cable ? As I understand starlink Ethernet adapter is already rj45. Am I missing something?
Thanks for this helpful tutorial. I am keen to eliminate the need for my power hungry Magnum 1200W inverter to be on at times only to power the Starlink modem... May I ask: With the Starlink router removed from the system, how well does the app communicate with the dish? Are there any issues in stowing the dish, turning off heating, doing updates etc.? Thanks for your help. -evan
Are you seeing any issues with voltage fluctuations affecting Starlink? I switched mine to 12v and anytime there’s a fluctuation in my RVs power system, Starlink reboots.
Thank you. Do you see what I am referring to though? Am I reading/looking at this wrong? Which should I use, the one you did while at the sink? That pattern, the images?
@@outsidenomad Thank you sir. Sincerely. We all still owe you a debt for your great work. And even more we owe for the step by step details in your narratives. In case I failed to be clear in my questions. I was only asking/referring to the pin out on the swapped side. Naturally the 568B is always 568B. It was the narrative disagreed with the colors in the image. Blue vice blue/white were different between narrative and images. I apologize for what I suspect others are shaking their heads at my nit-picking.
Great video and option for alternate power source. I chose to use the router provided. I realize the router gets power from the POE but how is this done (through dishy connection on bottom of router?)
Be aware you may need the original router and a working original style cable if the dishy ever does a full factory reset and needs to go through initial setup again.
SUBBED, Being a electronic idiot, I suggest that you actually produce the needed cables with the needed ends & sell them, maybe have a KIT of all the necessary items with simple diagram with ends of wires marked & where to plug where marked. So does the volt converter have a switch to set to 12 volt??? Sorry I know that sounds simplistic
Thanks Great information. Definitely worth doing. I'm using the same power converter 24vTo 48v to run my POE Amcrest security system. Glad to hear the Starlink app works. Just to confirm the dish Stow feature Works correct? Thanks again.
Great video! Have some interesting question, if I do this whole manipulation with StarLink ethernet adapter to avoid cutting the dishy cable, will I be able to use that rj45 along with the router? For example, the router is not a gigabyte version but is okay for mobile and so on consuming almost nothing, and gygabyte cable to a computer or laptop to use all ethernet power.
What carrier are you using for 5g? I was hearing good things about going through the calyx institute but it seems you need to use a provided hotspot and might not be able to simply swap the sim into another device.
Great video - thank you!! One thing that puzzles me - it makes perfect sense that if you are injecting 48 volts into the PoE, then that 48 volts will go out to the Starlink antenna - however, will the PoE also put out 48 volts to the Router. Is that OK? Does the Router need its own (typically) 12 volt power supply - or is the PoE giving it the voltage it needs with the ethernet cable plugged into the Internet port of the Router?
Hi August at Outside Nomad. Thanks for posting you r 12v workaround. I installed your set up but have fried two 12v 2 A routers when I hook them up to the 12v circuit. Is there a resistor I'm missing? Any feedback greatly appreciated, thanks!
After following the instruction my router does not seem to recognize a cable attached. I understand by getting rid of the box I can't access directly the dish. Any way I can trouble shoot? I would like to find out if this is a power or a data problem. If I plug the Router piece in the LED's do not show any activity on the Router.
So you say the starlink app works the same. Don't know if this is a concern for your neck of the woods. But will the heater option still work in this setup for ice and snow on the dish? Thanks
Thanks for the video! Sadly I cannot get my router to recognize e the internet. What are the additional steps to configure the router to receive the internet from the dish? The dish is powered up and all the connections are made with the proper “swapped” configuration.
I have two questions I hope you can help me with. 1. Can you recommend a more affordable WIFI Router that does not have Cellular Broadband capabilities? While the MoFi Router is a great unit I do not need the Cellular Broadband Capabilities. 2. In your design how is the MoFi Router being powered? Is it being powered off the POE Injector or do you have a separate DC source running directly to the MoFi Router?
Just curious how much power does this use on 12V? The starlink itself doesn't use much power on 110V as it is, only 2amps, so I was wondering if it was worth doing, and if you save a considerable amount of power by doing so?
@@outsidenomad that makes sense. My inverter pulls 2 Amps alone so that can be annoying at times when the sun isn't out charging the battery. I'm surprised yours goes up to 200 watts. That should only be when the heating element is on to melt any snow/ice on it
If you are using Starlink's ethernet adapter, can you just use the POE injector into the RJ45 port on the ethernet adapter and not have to try swapping wires in a cable?
@@outsidenomad Any time I've wired an electrical connector I've always had to crimp terminals onto the wires and then insert the terminal into the connector plug. You showed just pushing all the wires through the connector and then cutting them off. I don't think you even striped the insulation off first. I've never messed with computer terminals/connectors so maybe they're designed different than other electrical stuff. So just wondering if I missed something or what.
Looking at making an extension cable for the disc side cable, if I keep the "swapped" cable from the POE to the splice (RJ45 Coupler), as you show on your cable to the disc, can I use (or make) a standard ended (568B) outdoor rated shielded Cat 5/6 cable like from Amazon. You said you made a "swapped" end on your extension cable, but, I think that's because you plug it directly into the POE ? My setup has the POE harder to access. Thanks, Greatly appreciate your posts, very informative. :)
@@outsidenomad hey, no they are not. Only the main Poe out to dish. Location is all good. Use it with the supplied router in the same position. Maybe a bad step up converter
So if i understand this correctly, this Hack will run the Starlink Disc off the supplied 48v, However, if you want to run the Starlink Wfi unit, it will still need120v ???
The router is powered by 12 volts. Most if not all routers are designed for 12 volts. The AC plug has an inline box that reduces power from 120 to 12'ish volts.
Great video. I am confused as to why you can't use the ethernet adapter rj45 any more with the ethernet adapter hack. Wouldn't that save making a patch cable with the pairs swapped to go from the Tycon poe to the new router? Does the dish only communicate down the ethernet adapter cable and the wifi router communicates with the ethernet adapter rj45? Thus the reason for the crossed patch cable?
@@outsidenomad I think I have answered own question. There is two sets of cables in the ethernet adapter. You need the Poe injector to seperate the power from the data. This is normally done by the wifi adapter.
@@derekbeasley which ones did you end up using? We had two sets and I tried applying power and data to the larger wires, thinking the smaller ones were data only but we can’t get it to work. I’d love to hear how you got it to work. Thanks.
Having problems stowing my poll down for the return of my Starlink it does not connect to the router can someone help with this I need to send it back but won't fit in the box do to the poll
I'm in a VERY humid area, and this equipment would be installed & used in an environment that really is NOT climate controlled, CAN such happen WITHOUT the destruction of the equipment??
I actually disagree, the only thing that is being cut is the cable so you could just purchase a separate replacement cable and return the system to stock.
I already have a battery power box that uses EGO 56 volt power tool batteries - and then (with “inverters/converters” I have installed) delivers 12 volts, 24 volts, and the straight-through output of 56 volts. It looks like your suggested PoE will accept this 56 volts - and simply pass that through to the Starlink antenna - do you think that 56 volts to the Starlink would be acceptable - or should I insert a 56 to 48 converter?
There will be a separate 12V ( or whatever voltage they use) power supply built rght inside the router that will be seperate from the POE power source. The Starlink router is very simple and basically does little more than give out IP addresses to the equipment attached to it's ethernet adaptor, or wirelessly. Leaving the Starlink router alone, a simple and inexpensive ($35) unmanaged switch will provide the necessary ports for your ethernet attached equipment... Ubiquiti range extender, VOiP phone , TV etc...That's what works for me. If you need to use a third party router you need to disable the Starlink router first, you don't want to be in a double NAT situation... easy to do.
Hi, I followed your description and internet connection works good. But I have a problem. I can't connect with Starlink app. Do you know how to configure my router to have a possibility to use Starink app? It's very useful for fold antenna, test speed, etc.
I'm a electronic IDIOT, but have been considering Starlink for a off grid situation, and was wondering if / how it could be done WITHOUT 110 , I might be able to figure this stuff out
Question, starlink uses POE. There are managed switches out there that are not to expensive and have POE. Meaning that the ethernet port can send already power out, in this case, no strange configuration or input to add the needed power. Do you think that it will work with Starlink? or is the power usage to high for POE with starlink?
@@outsidenomad yes indeed. i did a search in the meantime, and max power output that POE can do at the moment is around 90W per port. So this is not a option at the moment. As it seems that Starlink router has POE++ new standard. and not many devices have it. I like the idea of having my own router connected to it, this can possible be even cost saving for me. As long i can find a home router with 8 ports, then i will be ok. And ofcourse turn down 5g, as 2.4 g is more than sufficient for home use.
Hello, got finally all the components. Except the PoE mentioned in your post That one was not available anymore. I have instead the following one: tl-POE4824G. Its from tp link, it delivers 48V over 0.5 A passive, 1 gb. this should work right ?
@@outsidenomad I agree. now i have the following one: YuLinca Inyector Gigabit PoE+, 90W 802.3af/at/BT. It seems to support PoE++. And 90W. I am in a warm climate, also in the winter. So this should be sufficient. Please let me know before i brick my starlink..
Waiting to power up the disk, but not happening. And i reaf a comment, they copy the exact instruction. But they use "fried" ... something is misleading on this content.
I did all this, double and tripple checked my wiring and I get nothing. I did connect my phone to the new wifi router. Any sugeestions? Question, if you were to wire this backards would it cause damage to the dish? Just thinking... Do you need to grounds the POE? The one I bought has a ground option.
@@outsidenomad update. I was able to connect the starlink cable together with a coupler and when I connected the ground from one end of my connector to the other I was able to get the starlink router working again. Went back to the poe and my router and when I grounded the dish power turned on for the dish (lights). Now it just keeps saying offline. I need a outdoor coupler that passes the ground through for sure.
I'm not attacking you and no disrespect intended....but Easier watch to get starlink working off 12V is to get an inverter....the power consumption is not going to be enough to workout with all the extra equipment your adding
Just the act of having an inverter switched on can pull almost an amp at 12volts. My inverter actually pulls a littler over an amp so this method does in fact save lot over a 24 hour period.
Has anyone experienced slower speeds when converting to a 12v System? I get, consistently, about 7.5 Mbps down on my 12v setup, and about 59 when I connect the dishy to the Starlink router. Both tests are run within a few minutes of each other, I have reset the router (Beryl AX GL-MT3000), and the antenna placement is the same. I am baffled as to why there is such a difference in DL speeds.
The symptoms you describe suggests that the way the crimp-on RJ-45 connectors are installed is at issue. You may need to re-terminate the cable ends with new RJ--45 connectors. The trick is to crimp as close to the twists in the cable as possible without actually crimping a twist. The twists in twisted pair cable is there for a reason, without them the cable cannot support higher data speeds.
Has anyone actually tried this with the star links ethernet adapter. I just cut the end of my star link ethernet adapter and to my surprise there's actually 16 wires not 4 pairs like in the video. 4 pairs of thicker cat 6 type wire and 4 pairs of really thin wire plus shielding same colour pairs as the thicker ones. Anyway here goes i assume I only need the 4 thick pairs.
@@outsidenomad So I got it working but at first glance it appears that the new starlink in Australia has some sort of shaping enabled when using the startlink through another modem with rv subscription setting. I could never get my downloads above 3 or mbps up and down on three different modems. then putting the modem back in place goes straight back to over 100 mbps down and up. Thought it was my cabling so repatched all cables and same results. Ill head over to the hacks group and see what I can find there. But just for the record if using the starlink eth adapater you dont need the small wires only the thick 8 pair.
Thank you for your video. This is exactly what we needed to find the best way to work into our power system. We are off-grid remote Alaska about an hour flight from the nearest town and just got our Starlink after a long wait for service to expand to Kodiak. It has been a game-changer.
Appreciate these videos. Where'd you guys go? Are you still making videos?
Thank dear friend, your instruction is very detailed and useful. I want to do the same 12 v DC power for my Starlink. This will help me stay online in Ukraine. God bless you.
I’m amazed you can crouch down for so long! Great presentation skills, very watchable. Well done
haha thanks
Great video, thanks so much for the clear instructions! We successfully did the same and also flat-mounted our Starlink to the roof of our electric campervan. It works great!
Would've been ultra-cool to see a speed test!
Thank you very much for putting this very instructive video together. Question: can you still use the starlink app even if the starlink router has been cut off? Thanks!
Thank you. Very useful video. I am just trying to setup to eliminate the router. So, using your diagram that includes the Starlink Ethernet Adapter. And it occurred to me, that I can cut the side going to the POE adapter, add male RJ45's to both ends, and a female coupler to "mend" the cable back so it has the original Starlink cable connector on it. Just throwing this out there, cause other folks like me hate butchering good equipment and having leftovers with no purpose. So being able to restore the Ethernet adapter to be functional as it came is a plus.
Not that I expect to need it, I can also use a section of shielded cat6e, and put male ends on it, and using a female coupler, I can make an extension for the distance between the Starlink Ethernet Adapter and the POE port.
That's a great idea!
You should have used a Keystone Jack with a waterproof box. To run the cable into the camper, I was going to buy a couple extra Starlink Ethernet adapters , gut them for the proprietary jacks and find a waterproof box to mount them in
If you are not skilled at making Ethernet cables, buy the adapters he has shown or get a person who is skilled at doing this to do it for you. It is very easy to make mistakes or not quite have all the wires properly connected. I have also seen a board available from a guy in Canada that accepts the cables and includes a POE for ~$100
Thanks for the awesome info and video! Tonight I had a successful test running Starlink off 12v DC just in my driveway. I used the POE and 12v to 48v converter you linked plus a cheap TPlink router also powered off 12v. Next is to install it in my van and figure out how I want to deal with the cumbersome antenna/stand. Cutting may be in my future :)
@@outsidenomad yeah I've been eyeing up the Pelican's in the meantime as a stopgap for storage, but ultimately I want to make it a flat mount on the roof. I was thinking of trying a heat gun on the dish to see if the two parts (the "front" the circuit board is attached to and the "back" where the armature attaches) will separate so I can cut the back away from the circuit board and generally have more access.
Watch, I bet after hacking up our dishes Starlink will release a flat mount :)
Dude. The beaten path is right behind you. You can literally see it if you just turn around. You got an overland vehicle so you could camp 100ft off the road. Wow!
LOVE your rig!
Found your channel from your tour with Jarrod Tocci. This is an incredibly informative and detailed video. It will be a shame when your channel gets too big that you will not have time to do such helpful videos.
But.. without a power consumption differential, it just seems like a lot of effort just to avoid using the inverter.
I have a roof rack on my van so it's easy to mount equipment to. I purchased the Starlink pivot mount which is bolted to the rack. I still have the the "x" mount if the roof mount doesn't give me the line-of-sight needed.
When in use the Starlink router sits mid-ship on the counter opposite the galley. The dishy and power cables run inside the widow well, below counter level, ~5 feet over to the B pillar. Behind the driver seat on the base of a bench seat is a 110 outlet where the router stays plugged in. This outlet is otherwise used for the air compressor or Dirt Devil. The outlet and cords plugged into it, are not visible or in the way.
The dish cable runs up, behind the B pillar trim, and through a hole in the roof that was put in for powering a rack mounted light bar (changed my mind) and exits through a puck style watertight cable gland.
The cable is then zip tied to the rack to the back of the van where I have the pivot mount. The extra cable is coiled and put in a Pelican style case which I've modified with a watertight cable gland. This is probably overkill as the cable is designed for outside use but, it does keep the connector dry when the dish is not mounted.
If I find that I need to have the dish on the ground due to obstructions, I simply take the excess cable out and drop it to the ground. I had to climb the ladder to mount the dish and plug it in so, no extra effort if I'm just retrieving cable.
My setup does not cut cords, not that I'm opposed to that for more universal connection, but it does require turning on my 3000 Watt inverter so I do have excess battery consumption in that regard.
My inverter/charger doesn't power anything, not even the AC, unless we are connected to shore power. Using it just for Starlink is a waste of battery so, I am considering alternatives like yours but also, a very small dedicated inverter.
So again, thank you. If I go the 12 volt route, now I know how to do it.
Awesome research and presentation!
Great video with lots of info. I want to connect starlink to my on board router (sailboat). The router also has 4G and a connection to the Iridium antenna. The router is really smart and can be programmed according to the internet source. Example: if internet via iridium, than only text can be send. So if starlink is connected, I can program full access. My question; can you still approach the dish via the starlink app if you don’t use the starlink router?
Yes you can, the app functionality is within the dish and not the router. You loose a couple functions of the app but nothing critical.
Thanks! This video is very helpful for Ukraine now. We have problems with AC, so it's better to use DC.
@@outsidenomad thanks!
Awesome work. Thanks for putting this together. I was planning on trying to figure that out if they don't release a 12v mobile version before our build is done. Don't forget to ping me before you head for Mexico I owe you some Gaia data but with all of my projects I will surely procrastinate that until you need it. Travel safe!
Sharing this with some boat friends here working on a similar solution.
Thanks so much for the detailed instructions 🙏 just to confirm, do you also need to run a seperate power supply into the router?
Great stuff! Huge thanks from France!
You're welcome!
I have been using that exact MOFI Router the advanced features don't work as well as they should. The load sharing, and Carrier Aggregation don't work often. Mofi support hasn't helped much with it, the forums and other sources about mofi all day they have the same issues I have. Even when I'm getting a Good 5G on my Pixel 6 Pro 200+ down I'm lucky if the Carrier Aggregation gets me 50 down if it even activates? There's no way to force it , the modem decides if it's got to activate based on a lot of Tower variables, I've had 6+ bands pulling 100+ down and the Carrier Aggregation stays inactive? Starlink had been a life saver for us being full time. Glad you figured out how to run it off 12v it makes things much easier, right now it's sharing the 1000w Inverter that powers our Residential fridge, until I get the Victron Inverter system installed with 800ah of Lifepo batteries 😀👍👍👍
Sir,
Watched your video a dozen times. I am using the Ethernet Adapter to remove the Starlink router.
The pinout insets of the while at the sink, and your voice over match, as your separate the wires for the connector. But that inset and your verbal description don’t match the swapped pinouts on the diagram with the Ethernet adapter. Your pinout at the sink, shows:
3 = blue
4 = w/green
5 = green
6 = w/blue
But Ethernet adapter diagram shows:
3 = w/blue
4 = green
5 = w/green
6 = blue
The TYCON PYCON POE POE-INJ-100-WT pinout image doesn’t match either of the swapped pinouts on the larger diagrams. Is your voice over at the sink correct or the diagrams? Or does it not matter?
I am sorry to appear nit-picky. I don’ want to burn anything up. I welcome someone that has already wired this to help me know which to use.
Sorry the large overview images with all the system components together have the wrong wire orders. I intended those to just be used as overview. The images in the article are correct.
great info.. thank u.. im surprised u dont have a flat mount fixed pannel mine works 99% and zero set up.. use it goin down the road,, if u found it neccary carry one like u have for emergencies,, but u ll never use it
@@outsidenomad do you know if dish needs 48 volts if motors are disabled ?
Thanks for putting this video together. If I am using a different brand POE injector would I still need to swap the wires?
@@outsidenomad thank you. I think I am just gonna get the tycon poe unit to make sure it works properly.
Great article. Just like to point out though (not that it makes any difference). Your pair B (the blue/blue stripe pair) - your first part of the presentation (the drawing of the connectivity through the PoE injector) showed it as being blue stripe on pin 3, and blue on pin 6. But where you actually did the connecting to the plug, you ran blue on pin 3 and blue stripe on pin 6. It doesnt really matter though, at all. The voltage sense is the same out of the Tycon POE-INJ-1000-WT, whereby both pins 3 and 6 are the negative side of the 48V.
Thanks for pointing that out. I guess I got lucky that it worked. I have since wired up everything again which is also working so I must have followed my own advice and got it right :)
Awesome video. I need to do the same to mine and run it off DC. I have the V1 dish though. So hope it similar.
Were you ever able to find a shielded panel mount weatherproof RJ45 coupler?
Just as an FYI (sure you know) that is a router you're connecting, not a modem. Those solar panels should not be walked on, they still have a silocon crystalline structure (don't bend them either). Not sure if Starlink is following ethernet standards, but gigabit connections don't need transmit/receive swapped, that's 100 Meg or below.
Two questions on this one. 1> Does the Dishy still try and point itself to best signal and does the STOW feature work when on 12v and NOT connected to Starlink router? Cheers!
Awesome video! I’m working through an install now largely inspired by yours. Did you ever have any luck with finding shielded rj45 pass throughs for your build? I can find a ton of panel mount/ pass through connectors but having a hard time finding shielded
I never did find any that I liked
So you eliminated both the Starlink router and power supply and it still works? In that case all I'd have to do is open up the Ethernet adapter and connect the 48 volt power adapter to it and don't need to make any cables or anything?
Ethernet adapter is not a POE injector but I suppose you could open it up and turn it into one. I've never heard of anyone successfully doing that.
Sir, I have read your article on your blog. Excellent. Very good. You articulation is powerful and explains much for the novice. Really walks them through how to setup and assemble like you have done. Please be proud of that.
I still see the same confusion. The images there match the ones linked below. And your instructions on your blog contradict the images as I have already list here below. Still don't know which to use #3 should be Blue or White/Blue?
And thank you.
@@outsidenomad Got it !!. I understand that one, clearly. No question from me now about pin out.
New question for you and everyone here. (I posted this question last night on James Olsen's webpage discussion.
I need a 120V AC 4-wire POE Injector for my setup. I am in a tropical area. Will never need to melt snow. The SL system specs says Average Power Usage is 50-75 for entire system, so I would guess (being on safe side) 90 watt max POE injector. Anyone have ANY recommendations for AC 4 wire POE injector, please?
I do not need to setup for RV/portable. I am simply trying get the SL router out of the path. Don't want to go 120V AC adapter to get to 12V, to use 12v-24v step, to go to TYCON. Lot of extra hardware and would need to make a tidy box for all
Thanks ALL.
Sorry, disregard the overview images which show all the components. Those are not the correct wire order. Just refer to the enlarged "swapped" and "standard" wiring diagrams found below the overview photos. I'm going to edit those photos, sorry for the confusion.
Hi Outside Nomad, I am confused. On the general cabling diagram the swap connection (from POE to dish, minute 9:33), is different than in the individual swapping diagram (minute 16:49 in your video). Wire numbers 3,4,5 and 6 are in different order in both images. Please could you tell me what is the correct one. Or what I am missing. Thanks
@@outsidenomad Thanks for your reply.
Great info! Now come do mine! Haha
The bare wire is a “drain” and the foil is the shield.
Hi August, I set everything up as shown, but have fried both of my 12V 2A routers connecting to the RV's 12V circuit. Any ideas greatly appreciated.
Hello
I’m from Ukraine 🇺🇦
Thank you for your video
Very helpful
Could you please tell if I use Ethernet adapter from starlink why do I still need to swap the lines in cable ? As I understand starlink Ethernet adapter is already rj45. Am I missing something?
Thanks for this helpful tutorial.
I am keen to eliminate the need for my power hungry Magnum 1200W inverter to be on at times only to power the Starlink modem...
May I ask:
With the Starlink router removed from the system, how well does the app communicate with the dish? Are there any issues in stowing the dish, turning off heating, doing updates etc.?
Thanks for your help.
-evan
@@outsidenomad Thank you August.
I am waiting for the last few parts & plan to ditch the 120VAC setup.
I appreciate your helpful video & webpage.
Are you seeing any issues with voltage fluctuations affecting Starlink? I switched mine to 12v and anytime there’s a fluctuation in my RVs power system, Starlink reboots.
can you still use the starlink app even tough you're not using the starlink router?
Thank you. Do you see what I am referring to though? Am I reading/looking at this wrong? Which should I use, the one you did while at the sink? That pattern, the images?
@@outsidenomad Thank you sir. Sincerely. We all still owe you a debt for your great work. And even more we owe for the step by step details in your narratives.
In case I failed to be clear in my questions. I was only asking/referring to the pin out on the swapped side. Naturally the 568B is always 568B. It was the narrative disagreed with the colors in the image. Blue vice blue/white were different between narrative and images.
I apologize for what I suspect others are shaking their heads at my nit-picking.
So how will the new Router interact with Starlink app? Thanks!
@@outsidenomad thanks for the reply. As some of us could be hesitant to even try.
@@outsidenomad I do have the SL Ethernet adapter and it works grate when and if I need it. Thanks 👍
Great video and option for alternate power source. I chose to use the router provided. I realize the router gets power from the POE but how is this done (through dishy connection on bottom of router?)
Be aware you may need the original router and a working original style cable if the dishy ever does a full factory reset and needs to go through initial setup again.
OPPS
SUBBED, Being a electronic idiot, I suggest that you actually produce the needed cables with the needed ends & sell them, maybe have a KIT of all the necessary items with simple diagram with ends of wires marked & where to plug where marked. So does the volt converter have a switch to set to 12 volt??? Sorry I know that sounds simplistic
In the rare chance of lightning striking the dishy, is there a way to ground the Ethernet to something in the RV?
Not that I’m aware of.
Unreal, but where do you plug in that power supply to the existing wiring in your RV. To me, that's the most complicated part .
Thanks Great information. Definitely worth doing. I'm using the same power converter 24vTo 48v to run my POE Amcrest security system.
Glad to hear the Starlink app works.
Just to confirm the dish Stow feature Works correct?
Thanks again.
@@outsidenomad Would be nice to know the same
Very helpful 👍
You can find all the details on the truck here, www.outsidenomad.com/expedition-vehicle-build/
Great video! Have some interesting question, if I do this whole manipulation with StarLink ethernet adapter to avoid cutting the dishy cable, will I be able to use that rj45 along with the router?
For example, the router is not a gigabyte version but is okay for mobile and so on consuming almost nothing, and gygabyte cable to a computer or laptop to use all ethernet power.
Nice video. It’s pronounced “E”-thernet. As in the information is coming out of the ether.
Wrong, ethernet is based on the word ether meaning essential to the system. This is publicly documented.
What carrier are you using for 5g? I was hearing good things about going through the calyx institute but it seems you need to use a provided hotspot and might not be able to simply swap the sim into another device.
Great video - thank you!! One thing that puzzles me - it makes perfect sense that if you are injecting 48 volts into the PoE, then that 48 volts will go out to the Starlink antenna - however, will the PoE also put out 48 volts to the Router. Is that OK? Does the Router need its own (typically) 12 volt power supply - or is the PoE giving it the voltage it needs with the ethernet cable plugged into the Internet port of the Router?
@@outsidenomad Many many thanks - that is what I suspected.
The network cable is not permanently connected to the dish, it can be unplugged at both ends.
Is an ordinary poe injector is not capable of powering the starlink dish? Is it need to buy a tycon poe 1000wt?
Hi August at Outside Nomad. Thanks for posting you r 12v workaround. I installed your set up but have fried two 12v 2 A routers when I hook them up to the 12v circuit. Is there a resistor I'm missing? Any feedback greatly appreciated, thanks!
After following the instruction my router does not seem to recognize a cable attached. I understand by getting rid of the box I can't access directly the dish. Any way I can trouble shoot? I would like to find out if this is a power or a data problem. If I plug the Router piece in the LED's do not show any activity on the Router.
So you say the starlink app works the same. Don't know if this is a concern for your neck of the woods. But will the heater option still work in this setup for ice and snow on the dish?
Thanks
Thanks for the video! Sadly I cannot get my router to recognize e the internet. What are the additional steps to configure the router to receive the internet from the dish? The dish is powered up and all the connections are made with the proper “swapped” configuration.
Are you stilling having problems with it? There's nothing additional you need to do.
12v power supply from power bank? Is it more long lasting?
I have two questions I hope you can help me with.
1. Can you recommend a more affordable WIFI Router that does not have Cellular Broadband capabilities? While the MoFi Router is a great unit I do not need the Cellular Broadband Capabilities.
2. In your design how is the MoFi Router being powered? Is it being powered off the POE Injector or do you have a separate DC source running directly to the MoFi Router?
Just curious how much power does this use on 12V? The starlink itself doesn't use much power on 110V as it is, only 2amps, so I was wondering if it was worth doing, and if you save a considerable amount of power by doing so?
@@outsidenomad that makes sense. My inverter pulls 2 Amps alone so that can be annoying at times when the sun isn't out charging the battery. I'm surprised yours goes up to 200 watts. That should only be when the heating element is on to melt any snow/ice on it
If you are using Starlink's ethernet adapter, can you just use the POE injector into the RJ45 port on the ethernet adapter and not have to try swapping wires in a cable?
I got a question, crossover or straight cable?
Did you ever find a good shielded quick release RJ45 weatherproof?
I still haven't found anything I like. They have all eventually failed.
Is it possible to run something that connects to 12v cig socket plug in on a camper trailer?
I don’t see why not. As long as the cig socket was rated for enough amps
What about the modem/router? Doesn't it need AC? Seems like a lot of effort to only remove one part (lower power?) from the string.
All or at least most routers are actually designed for 12 volts. So you just simply cut the AC cord off and wire to 12 volt.
Great video I would like to buy the Kit but I am not able to help?
Don't quite understand what you're asking.
Did I miss something? Doesn't each wire require a terminal attached to the individual wire inside the connector?
@@outsidenomad Any time I've wired an electrical connector I've always had to crimp terminals onto the wires and then insert the terminal into the connector plug. You showed just pushing all the wires through the connector and then cutting them off. I don't think you even striped the insulation off first. I've never messed with computer terminals/connectors so maybe they're designed different than other electrical stuff. So just wondering if I missed something or what.
Can this be done on the original Circle dishy or just these newer square ones?
Looking at making an extension cable for the disc side cable, if I keep the "swapped" cable from the POE to the splice (RJ45 Coupler), as you show on your cable to the disc, can I use (or make) a standard ended (568B) outdoor rated shielded Cat 5/6 cable like from Amazon. You said you made a "swapped" end on your extension cable, but, I think that's because you plug it directly into the POE ? My setup has the POE harder to access.
Thanks, Greatly appreciate your posts, very informative. :)
@@outsidenomad Yes. Thanks again, that's the information I was trying to verify.
"E"thernet. Not "Eth" I thank you but that is killing me . :) I have many ideas.
Hey mate, I have followed your video but getting low speeds and dropouts. Cables look good and all connections are great. Got any ideas ?
@@outsidenomad hey, no they are not. Only the main Poe out to dish. Location is all good. Use it with the supplied router in the same position.
Maybe a bad step up converter
What is the cost approximate to do all this? Thank you😆
so you don't need the starlink router in the end?
So if i understand this correctly, this Hack will run the Starlink Disc off the supplied 48v, However, if you want to run the Starlink Wfi unit, it will still need120v ???
Might be a dumb question, but what did you use to power the new router?
The router is powered by 12 volts. Most if not all routers are designed for 12 volts. The AC plug has an inline box that reduces power from 120 to 12'ish volts.
Great video. I am confused as to why you can't use the ethernet adapter rj45 any more with the ethernet adapter hack. Wouldn't that save making a patch cable with the pairs swapped to go from the Tycon poe to the new router? Does the dish only communicate down the ethernet adapter cable and the wifi router communicates with the ethernet adapter rj45? Thus the reason for the crossed patch cable?
@@outsidenomad Yes. I don't understand why not?
@@outsidenomad I think I have answered own question. There is two sets of cables in the ethernet adapter. You need the Poe injector to seperate the power from the data. This is normally done by the wifi adapter.
@@derekbeasley which ones did you end up using? We had two sets and I tried applying power and data to the larger wires, thinking the smaller ones were data only but we can’t get it to work. I’d love to hear how you got it to work. Thanks.
Having problems stowing my poll down for the return of my Starlink it does not connect to the router can someone help with this I need to send it back but won't fit in the box do to the poll
As far as I know if it won’t connect to the app I don’t think there’s any way to stow it. I take it there’s something wrong with it?
I'm in a VERY humid area, and this equipment would be installed & used in an environment that really is NOT climate controlled, CAN such happen WITHOUT the destruction of the equipment??
Void warranty for sure .
I actually disagree, the only thing that is being cut is the cable so you could just purchase a separate replacement cable and return the system to stock.
if ur goin to remove motors too flat mount.. does dish still need power??
@@outsidenomad thanks.. lol sorry asked again before saw this...
I already have a battery power box that uses EGO 56 volt power tool batteries - and then (with “inverters/converters” I have installed) delivers 12 volts, 24 volts, and the straight-through output of 56 volts. It looks like your suggested PoE will accept this 56 volts - and simply pass that through to the Starlink antenna - do you think that 56 volts to the Starlink would be acceptable - or should I insert a 56 to 48 converter?
@@outsidenomad Yes yes - that is what I suspected - but it is always good to get a second/third opinion.
does the poe also power the router? if not what is the power source for the router? is it an inverter on a separate fuse?
There will be a separate 12V ( or whatever voltage they use) power supply built rght inside the router that will be seperate from the POE power source. The Starlink router is very simple and basically does little more than give out IP addresses to the equipment attached to it's ethernet adaptor, or wirelessly. Leaving the Starlink router alone, a simple and inexpensive ($35) unmanaged switch will provide the necessary ports for your ethernet attached equipment... Ubiquiti range extender, VOiP phone , TV etc...That's what works for me. If you need to use a third party router you need to disable the Starlink router first, you don't want to be in a double NAT situation... easy to do.
Hi, I followed your description and internet connection works good. But I have a problem. I can't connect with Starlink app. Do you know how to configure my router to have a possibility to use Starink app? It's very useful for fold antenna, test speed, etc.
To access the app your phone must be on the same network as the Starlink. I’d double check that first.
I'm a electronic IDIOT, but have been considering Starlink for a off grid situation, and was wondering if / how it could be done WITHOUT 110 , I might be able to figure this stuff out
Can I run starlink on cheaper modified sine wave inverter ?
How can i contact with you?buddy,i need you help me to test a new starlink power supply
Question, starlink uses POE. There are managed switches out there that are not to expensive and have POE. Meaning that the ethernet port can send already power out, in this case, no strange configuration or input to add the needed power. Do you think that it will work with Starlink? or is the power usage to high for POE with starlink?
@@outsidenomad yes indeed. i did a search in the meantime, and max power output that POE can do at the moment is around 90W per port. So this is not a option at the moment. As it seems that Starlink router has POE++ new standard. and not many devices have it. I like the idea of having my own router connected to it, this can possible be even cost saving for me. As long i can find a home router with 8 ports, then i will be ok. And ofcourse turn down 5g, as 2.4 g is more than sufficient for home use.
Hello, got finally all the components. Except the PoE mentioned in your post That one was not available anymore. I have instead the following one: tl-POE4824G. Its from tp link, it delivers 48V over 0.5 A passive, 1 gb. this should work right ?
@@outsidenomad I agree. now i have the following one: YuLinca Inyector Gigabit PoE+, 90W 802.3af/at/BT. It seems to support PoE++. And 90W. I am in a warm climate, also in the winter. So this should be sufficient. Please let me know before i brick my starlink..
Do they make a DC 12V Router?
Would this work with the original router?
No
Waiting to power up the disk, but not happening. And i reaf a comment, they copy the exact instruction. But they use "fried" ... something is misleading on this content.
Can I keep the Starlink router and still use this hack
I did all this, double and tripple checked my wiring and I get nothing. I did connect my phone to the new wifi router. Any sugeestions? Question, if you were to wire this backards would it cause damage to the dish? Just thinking... Do you need to grounds the POE? The one I bought has a ground option.
@@outsidenomad 15.4 watt poe class 3 and class 4 30.0 watt.
48 V. Everything seems like it is wired correctly. Tried grounding but that didn't work.
@@outsidenomad update. I was able to connect the starlink cable together with a coupler and when I connected the ground from one end of my connector to the other I was able to get the starlink router working again. Went back to the poe and my router and when I grounded the dish power turned on for the dish (lights). Now it just keeps saying offline.
I need a outdoor coupler that passes the ground through for sure.
@@outsidenomad 15.4 w
@@outsidenomad TY, I missed that detail. Crap. Anyone need a 30W POE?
Will the heater still work?
Yes it still works
I'm not attacking you and no disrespect intended....but
Easier watch to get starlink working off 12V is to get an inverter....the power consumption is not going to be enough to workout with all the extra equipment your adding
Just the act of having an inverter switched on can pull almost an amp at 12volts. My inverter actually pulls a littler over an amp so this method does in fact save lot over a 24 hour period.
Has anyone experienced slower speeds when converting to a 12v System? I get, consistently, about 7.5 Mbps down on my 12v setup, and about 59 when I connect the dishy to the Starlink router. Both tests are run within a few minutes of each other, I have reset the router (Beryl AX GL-MT3000), and the antenna placement is the same. I am baffled as to why there is such a difference in DL speeds.
The symptoms you describe suggests that the way the crimp-on RJ-45 connectors are installed is at issue. You may need to re-terminate the cable ends with new RJ--45 connectors. The trick is to crimp as close to the twists in the cable as possible without actually crimping a twist. The twists in twisted pair cable is there for a reason, without them the cable cannot support higher data speeds.
It runs on 48 volt! It makes it kind of a pointless ordeal to me...
The benefit is to not have to run an inverter all the time
Heres another way of doing it th-cam.com/video/wAvokG3iVQw/w-d-xo.html
Has anyone actually tried this with the star links ethernet adapter. I just cut the end of my star link ethernet adapter and to my surprise there's actually 16 wires not 4 pairs like in the video. 4 pairs of thicker cat 6 type wire and 4 pairs of really thin wire plus shielding same colour pairs as the thicker ones. Anyway here goes i assume I only need the 4 thick pairs.
@@outsidenomad So I got it working but at first glance it appears that the new starlink in Australia has some sort of shaping enabled when using the startlink through another modem with rv subscription setting. I could never get my downloads above 3 or mbps up and down on three different modems. then putting the modem back in place goes straight back to over 100 mbps down and up. Thought it was my cabling so repatched all cables and same results. Ill head over to the hacks group and see what I can find there. But just for the record if using the starlink eth adapater you dont need the small wires only the thick 8 pair.
That router costs more than starlink itself