Among the best of dozens videos that try to explain how to bleed a Yanmar 3GM30 diesel engine. This video is well done with excellent audio, visual, and presentation of information.
THANK YOU! Without your video I would have never got my engine running again. I couldn’t figure out why the butterfly valve was not working. Repositioned the crankshaft(?) and it magically worked!!
That's a good point about the butterfly valve. That valve is manually actuated by a cam lobe on the camshaft, and if the engine happened to stop at a high point where the cam lobe is depressing the valve, the valve is already fully depressed. So it makes sense the manual actuation would not work in that case. Also your decision to prime the system with fuel is a lot easier, and any particles in that primer that bypassed the first filter will be reliably trapped in the second. Love your Rolling Stones quotation at the end.
Nice job, thank you for posting this. We purchased a sailboat with a 1990 Yanmar 3GM30F this past spring and your videos have helped me understand the basic preventative maintenance required.
Thanks, great vid and very clear instructions. I have placed an outboard primer pump at the tank exit. Pumping this has greatly decreased the anxiety of removing air from the bleed points. I don't need the small butterfly pump.
Nice video for all of us Yanmar owners. Enjoyed the Stones reference at the end. As an "Easter Egg" try to bury your next Stones lyrics reference into the substance of your video. Good luck.
Fantastic video !, just what I was looking for...same model filter mount I have...every other video I've found so far had a T-screw on top of mount and lift handles on the filter cartridge?...glad you showed the bleed pump with the white plastic knob on top of mount, that's what I have too, but just thought it was a bleed screw, not an actual pump. Great detail captured in video work too, could actually see bleed bubbles and fuel...nobody else captures that, all too far away and/or filmed by somebody not understanding the job and what needs to be seen...if you did all that camera work yourself, that's even more amazing, well done !! 🙂
Good video. Dramatically improve your bleeding time to SECONDS by using an electric lift pump in line. I found only bleeding the yanmar filter is enough. I don't bother bleeding the Racor or the injector pump. Seems the electric pump is good at forcing fuel into the system, allowing fast starting after a bleeding. Also if you use a 1 liter soda bottle cut in half you can use that to catch the fuel in the yanmar diesel filter, and the oil filter, for that matter! Electric lift pumps rock! Keeps your engine running if it ever sucks air. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt!
@@sailboatrefit4145 the previous owner plumbed it before the filters, right after the tank. Idealy it should be after the filters. It has a built in filter to boot. so you have 3 filters (4 if you use, and you should, a Mr Funnel filter)
All good, the only two things I would suggest is to have gloves on and I do believe from what I remember from my Yanmar is after you done the Second filter and bleed it it’s self prime it self
Yeah no need for all the detail, pump her up from what ever pump you have on the delivery line, a quick splutter don't hurt, diesels are pretty good overall and marine diesels are some of the best. Thought I was watching Marty from the Ozark show for a bit, uncanny!
An R20P filter is 30 microns. P = Primary (30u), T = Primary or Secondary /Final (10u), S = Secondary / Final (2u). The R20 refers to the housing compatibility, although I don't follow their logic. My R215 Racor takes R15P, T, or S filter cartridges.
instead of pumping on that little butterfly you could pull the anti-compression levers and crank the starter for 5 seconds which saves you a ton of time and effort. For that you should close the seawater intake and remember to open again !! once air is out...
This is a fine suggestion and I have done it both ways. The manual option offers greater control so one doesn't spray fuel everywhere and I like being able to do it without power. Check out spelunkerd's Yanmar fuel change video for further explanation of the compression lever method.
Mate. Thanks so much for this video. Has helped me no end. I would have really struggled without watching this.
Among the best of dozens videos that try to explain how to bleed a Yanmar 3GM30 diesel engine. This video is well done with excellent audio, visual, and presentation of information.
THANK YOU! Without your video I would have never got my engine running again. I couldn’t figure out why the butterfly valve was not working. Repositioned the crankshaft(?) and it magically worked!!
Glad it helped! Have fun out there!
"You can't always get what you want..." thank you for this helpfull video...and good references. Pascal from Switzerland.
Thanks for the vids. Like most others here, I have the same engine so I've downloaded all 3 vids for servicing tomorrow. Cheers.
Excellent information, clearly and concisely presented with excellent video footage. Thank you very much!
Thanks for the video! This helped doing both filters on my 2YM15
That's a good point about the butterfly valve. That valve is manually actuated by a cam lobe on the camshaft, and if the engine happened to stop at a high point where the cam lobe is depressing the valve, the valve is already fully depressed. So it makes sense the manual actuation would not work in that case. Also your decision to prime the system with fuel is a lot easier, and any particles in that primer that bypassed the first filter will be reliably trapped in the second. Love your Rolling Stones quotation at the end.
Nice job, thank you for posting this. We purchased a sailboat with a 1990 Yanmar 3GM30F this past spring and your videos have helped me understand the basic preventative maintenance required.
Nice video. I’m like, “Where is all the rust on your engine?” Looks good. Keep the engine maintenance videos coming. Impeller next.
Thank you for the awesome video! Just the info I needed.
Thanks, great vid and very clear instructions. I have placed an outboard primer pump at the tank exit. Pumping this has greatly decreased the anxiety of removing air from the bleed points. I don't need the small butterfly pump.
Nice video for all of us Yanmar owners. Enjoyed the Stones reference at the end. As an "Easter Egg" try to bury your next Stones lyrics reference into the substance of your video. Good luck.
🤣
Great job excellent narration
Fantastic video !, just what I was looking for...same model filter mount I have...every other video I've found so far had a T-screw on top of mount and lift handles on the filter cartridge?...glad you showed the bleed pump with the white plastic knob on top of mount, that's what I have too, but just thought it was a bleed screw, not an actual pump. Great detail captured in video work too, could actually see bleed bubbles and fuel...nobody else captures that, all too far away and/or filmed by somebody not understanding the job and what needs to be seen...if you did all that camera work yourself, that's even more amazing, well done !! 🙂
Thanks so much for the great info!
Good video. Dramatically improve your bleeding time to SECONDS by using an electric lift pump in line. I found only bleeding the yanmar filter is enough. I don't bother bleeding the Racor or the injector pump. Seems the electric pump is good at forcing fuel into the system, allowing fast starting after a bleeding. Also if you use a 1 liter soda bottle cut in half you can use that to catch the fuel in the yanmar diesel filter, and the oil filter, for that matter! Electric lift pumps rock! Keeps your engine running if it ever sucks air. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt!
Where did you locate your electric pump? Between the primary filter and the mechanical lift pump?
@@sailboatrefit4145 the previous owner plumbed it before the filters, right after the tank. Idealy it should be after the filters. It has a built in filter to boot. so you have 3 filters (4 if you use, and you should, a Mr Funnel filter)
Nice ending!! Tres classi!!
great video,thanks!
All good, the only two things I would suggest is to have gloves on and I do believe from what I remember from my Yanmar is after you done the Second filter and bleed it it’s self prime it self
Very informative, thanks , I have exactly the same age yanmar
Use the pump on the Racor filter assembly to purge air when bleeding the fuel system. It does the job much better.
Not in my experience but would appreciate seeing it work if you have a video.
Yeah no need for all the detail, pump her up from what ever pump you have on the delivery line, a quick splutter don't hurt, diesels are pretty good overall and marine diesels are some of the best. Thought I was watching Marty from the Ozark show for a bit, uncanny!
Well done, thank you!
I like your videos!
An R20P filter is 30 microns. P = Primary (30u), T = Primary or Secondary /Final (10u), S = Secondary / Final (2u).
The R20 refers to the housing compatibility, although I don't follow their logic. My R215 Racor takes R15P, T, or S filter cartridges.
Thank you for this video, I found it very useful! Do you, or do you know anyone that have made a video about changing the cooling water on the 3GM30f?
Hi - I haven’t made a video about it but I wrote up my coolant flush: sailboatrefit.com/yanmar-3gm30f-heat-exchanger-service-dont-mix-coolant-colors/
instead of pumping on that little butterfly you could pull the anti-compression levers and crank the starter for 5 seconds which saves you a ton of time and effort. For that you should close the seawater intake and remember to open again !! once air is out...
This is a fine suggestion and I have done it both ways. The manual option offers greater control so one doesn't spray fuel everywhere and I like being able to do it without power. Check out spelunkerd's Yanmar fuel change video for further explanation of the compression lever method.