One of the things I've noticed with videos and tips about doing corners is they all assume that the needle will just be in the right place to pivot the fabric. As a newbie, one of the issues I'd have is that because of my stitch length, the beginning of a stitch is too far from where I need to pivot, and the other end of that stitch would be too far. I've compensated for this by doing the manual wheel turning when it gets close to the corner, eyeballing the distance, and often shortening the stitch length for the last one or two stitches to give me more control of where my pivot point will be. I'm using a vintage machine, and can't choose a precise stitch length, so there's some guesswork involved. It's an adventure. 🙂
These finer details are valuable references and sometimes validation of techniques I've already used. Multiple ways to skin the cat and always looking for new ways to be efficient while maintaining quality work. Thanks for this and so many other videos!
Great content, good teaching, video could benefit from overhead daylight lighting (too much of viewer’s view is in shadow). It’s excellent that you are considerate of your viewers having a range of machines (from super basic to fancy). This is rare. I think a larger piece of denim fabric and a greater angle curve, would mean it would be easier for the beginner viewer, to see what you’re doing, as you do it. I’ve lost my magnetic guide too, great inventions but need to come with their own GPS ha ha. Too easy to lose. Do you have another video on the corners for when you sew patch pockets please? Eg two layers of fabric. Making a pocket separately, (for adding to bags, aprons etc). You are the funny and clever sewing teacher, every sewer would love for their local sewing teacher. Great vids.
Ahh very good point about the lighting. I forgot this video was done on the Janome. I try to swap between the machines for tutorials as often as I can, because I don't want people to feel like they HAVE to have an industrial machine. I should have lit that much better. I do have a video of my studio tour, so you should take a look at that and you'll see what the lighting setup is like! I'll probably snag a smaller light for this table after I move to Nc. I'm here now, just waiting for my stuff!
With a manual machine if your stitch length means you would be stitching too far. When I get to that position I set the stitch length to 0 and rotate the wheel to drop the needle and make sure it goes down and partially back up. Then reset the stitch length pivot and head off again.
Hi, I really appreciate your channel. It had been very helpful as I start my handmade bag business. My question doesn't have anything to do with corners or curves tho. May I ask where you got got your "Fierce Kitten Studios" metal tag or label? Thank you so much for helping us newbies 🤗
I have been sewing for years but I have had the same problem on different machines so I must be doing something wrong. When I pivot and start sewing again, sometimes the stitch skips - so the top stitch is at a diagonal and you can see the bobbin thread on top pulling it. It is incredibly frustrating. I have both a juki with a bobbin case and a janome with the drop in bobbin and this happens on both machines. I don't know why :(
There's typically two rotations of the wheel. My Juki may be a bit better at this technique than a domestic, but you'll rotate once, then rotate until the thread pickup loop is up at the top, but the needle is down. That's when the bobbin thread has been looped and you're good to pivot!
@@fiercekittenz ok - so stop a little before the end, make my stitch length smaller just so I don't overshoot it, manually turn the wheel for two more stitches and then pivot? Is that right? (thanks for helping me by the way). I have a Juki 2010 and I love it but this is making me a little crazy LOL
Thanks for this video. Do you really use the magnetic guide on your M7??? Upto now I did not, because of the magnetic stitch plates. I’m afraid that it causes damage to the machine?
No, I don't because I don't really need it. Though you'd need an industrial-level magnet, like military grade, to damage anything on the machine. This is a small magnet. You'll be totally fine using it.
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One of the things I've noticed with videos and tips about doing corners is they all assume that the needle will just be in the right place to pivot the fabric. As a newbie, one of the issues I'd have is that because of my stitch length, the beginning of a stitch is too far from where I need to pivot, and the other end of that stitch would be too far. I've compensated for this by doing the manual wheel turning when it gets close to the corner, eyeballing the distance, and often shortening the stitch length for the last one or two stitches to give me more control of where my pivot point will be. I'm using a vintage machine, and can't choose a precise stitch length, so there's some guesswork involved. It's an adventure. 🙂
Thank u, thank u, this helps a lot. U gave me ideas cuz I struggle with the curve corners. Great tutorial 👌
Thank you. It is helpful!
Thanks. Love your videos. Very informative.
Fierce that was classic with the party pants comment !
These finer details are valuable references and sometimes validation of techniques I've already used. Multiple ways to skin the cat and always looking for new ways to be efficient while maintaining quality work. Thanks for this and so many other videos!
Great content, good teaching, video could benefit from overhead daylight lighting (too much of viewer’s view is in shadow).
It’s excellent that you are considerate of your viewers having a range of machines (from super basic to fancy). This is rare.
I think a larger piece of denim fabric and a greater angle curve, would mean it would be easier for the beginner viewer, to see what you’re doing, as you do it.
I’ve lost my magnetic guide too, great inventions but need to come with their own GPS ha ha. Too easy to lose.
Do you have another video on the corners for when you sew patch pockets please? Eg two layers of fabric. Making a pocket separately, (for adding to bags, aprons etc).
You are the funny and clever sewing teacher, every sewer would love for their local sewing teacher. Great vids.
Ahh very good point about the lighting. I forgot this video was done on the Janome. I try to swap between the machines for tutorials as often as I can, because I don't want people to feel like they HAVE to have an industrial machine. I should have lit that much better. I do have a video of my studio tour, so you should take a look at that and you'll see what the lighting setup is like! I'll probably snag a smaller light for this table after I move to Nc. I'm here now, just waiting for my stuff!
Very helpful and detailed
With a manual machine if your stitch length means you would be stitching too far. When I get to that position I set the stitch length to 0 and rotate the wheel to drop the needle and make sure it goes down and partially back up. Then reset the stitch length pivot and head off again.
Very helpful. Where did you get the magnetic guide?
From Amazon!
Thanks great help😊😊
Hi, I really appreciate your channel. It had been very helpful as I start my handmade bag business.
My question doesn't have anything to do with corners or curves tho.
May I ask where you got got your "Fierce Kitten Studios" metal tag or label?
Thank you so much for helping us newbies 🤗
Haha! I ordered them through a shop on Alibaba! gztopwin.en.alibaba.com/?spm=a2700.details.cordpanyb.1.5869b9db1nMBOU
@@fiercekittenz awesome, thank you 🤗
Thank you so much! Also, girl... cute top on you! Also-also, I’m a pajamas girl through and through!
Why thank you! Got it through StitchFix.
I have been sewing for years but I have had the same problem on different machines so I must be doing something wrong. When I pivot and start sewing again, sometimes the stitch skips - so the top stitch is at a diagonal and you can see the bobbin thread on top pulling it. It is incredibly frustrating. I have both a juki with a bobbin case and a janome with the drop in bobbin and this happens on both machines. I don't know why :(
There's typically two rotations of the wheel. My Juki may be a bit better at this technique than a domestic, but you'll rotate once, then rotate until the thread pickup loop is up at the top, but the needle is down. That's when the bobbin thread has been looped and you're good to pivot!
@@fiercekittenz ok - so stop a little before the end, make my stitch length smaller just so I don't overshoot it, manually turn the wheel for two more stitches and then pivot? Is that right? (thanks for helping me by the way). I have a Juki 2010 and I love it but this is making me a little crazy LOL
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Thanks for this video. Do you really use the magnetic guide on your M7???
Upto now I did not, because of the magnetic stitch plates. I’m afraid that it causes damage to the machine?
No, I don't because I don't really need it. Though you'd need an industrial-level magnet, like military grade, to damage anything on the machine. This is a small magnet. You'll be totally fine using it.
@@fiercekittenz thanks 🙏