I'd love to see this masonry retaining wall approach in combination with underslab/underfooting closed cell foam insulation. A stained-finished slab that serves as a concrete floor can be kept quite warm with some insulation and radiant floor heating.
So I want to make a small room its only going to have electricity. I'm planning to use a stem wall. I have a question. In this video the gentleman is standing on raised ground compared to the stem wall, I was wondering can just dig out the dimensions required for the footing and stem wall and leave the center ground undisturbed and it look like this man where he is standing? Or will I have to dig out the entirety of the ground and flatten it? I've never done building I'm doing alot of research I don't want to mess up, any advice would be appreciated
I heard in a video that footers without board forms or some kind of form for the footer aren't up to code? Also I'm confused about what you said at the beginning about the frost depth, what's are you trying to satisfy with 32 inches? Is that going to be the top of the slab at 32 inches or what? (yes I can be dumb)... I see the concept of what you are doing and I like the footers in the ditch and the wet set blocks, seems more efficient. But I guess they made the wood forms the code to eliminate the rare times when the dirt isn't strong and doesn't support the side, or something, not really sure why you have to do formed footers, or maybe you don't have to? Also, I checked out your videos, if you put more relevant keywords in the title of the video you might get more views and subs.
Our dirt is full of aggregate and clay, works best to pour footings directly into trench. Sometimes a complete for works better when you need the elevation to be just right.
@@VenturaIT There may be some areas that want a formed footing, but I have not heard of anything. It is basically up to the engineer and concrete sub, and whatever is the norm in the area. This is Keith replying.
@@Lastboomers I guess it depends on the local code. I heard that international code did not allow trenched/earth formed footings. I just read that in Wisconsin for example they are ok just so the soil is stable. I'm not a contractor or builder, but I'm learning about it. So I like to know what is 100% correct. I like the earth formed footings and the wet laid block, so efficient and saves steps.
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I'd love to see this masonry retaining wall approach in combination with underslab/underfooting closed cell foam insulation. A stained-finished slab that serves as a concrete floor can be kept quite warm with some insulation and radiant floor heating.
you dont pour on insulation to circumvent the frost depth requirements?
No, no in this location, but in higher altitudes I have done that.
Have you looked at strata foam frame/insulation? They claim 50% savings over wood. I'd like to know what drawbacks there are to this material.
I have not really seen the savings they claim. Still looking though.
So I want to make a small room its only going to have electricity. I'm planning to use a stem wall. I have a question. In this video the gentleman is standing on raised ground compared to the stem wall, I was wondering can just dig out the dimensions required for the footing and stem wall and leave the center ground undisturbed and it look like this man where he is standing? Or will I have to dig out the entirety of the ground and flatten it? I've never done building I'm doing alot of research I don't want to mess up, any advice would be appreciated
How do you prefer to do your brick ledge on slab on grade. Wider footers?
No brick ledge for this build, but if I did I would push the stem wall out a bit to accomodate.
I'm curious about the vertical gaps between each of the CMU blocks. Why no mortar there?
they will get filled in with the final slab pour
I heard in a video that footers without board forms or some kind of form for the footer aren't up to code? Also I'm confused about what you said at the beginning about the frost depth, what's are you trying to satisfy with 32 inches? Is that going to be the top of the slab at 32 inches or what? (yes I can be dumb)... I see the concept of what you are doing and I like the footers in the ditch and the wet set blocks, seems more efficient. But I guess they made the wood forms the code to eliminate the rare times when the dirt isn't strong and doesn't support the side, or something, not really sure why you have to do formed footers, or maybe you don't have to? Also, I checked out your videos, if you put more relevant keywords in the title of the video you might get more views and subs.
Our dirt is full of aggregate and clay, works best to pour footings directly into trench. Sometimes a complete for works better when you need the elevation to be just right.
@@HowToBuildYourOwnHome I get it, I like the no-form method, less wood, etc... but I thought it was not up to code.
@@VenturaIT There may be some areas that want a formed footing, but I have not heard of anything. It is basically up to the engineer and concrete sub, and whatever is the norm in the area. This is Keith replying.
@@Lastboomers I guess it depends on the local code. I heard that international code did not allow trenched/earth formed footings. I just read that in Wisconsin for example they are ok just so the soil is stable. I'm not a contractor or builder, but I'm learning about it. So I like to know what is 100% correct. I like the earth formed footings and the wet laid block, so efficient and saves steps.
😂